Grinding stones and sharpening techniques and plans. Grinding water stones for sharpening tools and hardness of their blades

Any cutting tool (knives, rocks, scissors) in the process of work is wear out and blinking, that is, on its tip (cutting edge), the blurred radius increases. For a normal cutting, the blade of the instrument must have a smooth surface and the thickness of the blade on the edge of only 6-8 microns. The blunt tool during operation ceases to cut, but it begins to crumble and mine the material, as a result of which the quality of the surface being treated is deteriorating, and the force required for cutting increases. Because of this, by the way, is more often injured by a non-sharp tool, but blunt. So any self-respecting master is simply obliged to be able to sharpen and edit home tool (knives, scissors, drills) on the electrical chile or manually.

The fastest and convenient is considered to be sharpening and editing of the tool on the electrical chile, on the shaft of which abrasive and finishing circles are installed. To ensure the required angle sharpening tool on the electricoid, it is necessary to provide a moving emphasis.

Getting Started, remember that at the top abrasive circles are obliged to be closed with a casing, and the gap between the focus (spyer) and the abrasive circle is maintained in the range of 1.5-3 mm.

a - after sharpening and finishing; b - stupid edge; In - Restoration of the edge sharpness Removal from the chamfer abrasive parts of the metal

For mastering proper technique Sharpening tools Beginner masters will have to work a little to acquire some experience in working with the emery circle. First of all, it is necessary to correctly choose an abrasive circle that has graininess and hardness suitable for this work. Remember, the larger the grain, the more productive the sharpening process, but the greater the surface of the treated surface. Abrasive circles with small grain are rapidly clogged (sued) and begin to catch the blade. Usually these circles are used for the final ending of the isge, that is, the removal from its surface of micronics.

Choosing a circle of one or another hardness for sharpening, take into account that if the circle is too hard for the tool, it clogs faster and overly heats up (ignites) the blade, and when the circle is too soft, it flashes faster, losing the original shape.

To determine the hardness of the tool material at home, a file with a shallow notch is often used. Do it. The file is just trying to sharpen the blade of the tool. If the file simply slides on the blade, without removing the metal, the hardness of the metal metal and the file coincides and is approximately 61-62 HRC. Such hardness at knives, chisels, etc. It is rare. If the Frame Metal Frame from the blade still removes, the hardness of the blade of the tool is quite good - 58-60 HRC (this is the usual hardness of the tool). When the file removes the metal from the blade quite easily, the hardness of the cutting part of the tool is unsatisfactory - less than 40-45 HRC. At the same time, a beginner sharpener should know that a kitchen knife or a chisel made from poor-quality or non-steamed steel, having a hardness below 40 HRC, it is almost impossible to sharpen, and it is difficult to work with such a tool, as it fits immediately after sharpening.

Excellent cutting properties have forged ball bearings SHSH15, surgical steel 40x13 (stainless steel for kitchen knife), Instrumental steel U8-U1A, alloyed steel 9xc, 9khf, p18, whose hardness after heat treatment reaches 58-60 HRC.

For the sharpening of the household and woodworking tool, abrasive circles of the EB brand (electric electrocorundant) on a ceramic bundle K, in which the graininess is 40-25, and the degree of hardness cm1 (average softness No. 1).

When the appropriate circle is fixed, you choose the sharpening angle of the tool, guided by the considerations that when decreasing sharpening angle, the cutting properties of the tool are increasing, but the strength of its blade, especially when shuffles and contact with solid bodies, is reduced. Taking into account the foregoing practice, specific sharpening angles are recommended in the table.

As can be seen from the table, the harder material being processed, the greater the sharpening angle, and this rule is fair even for ordinary kitchen knives. By the way, the knives intended for one purpose or another, not only the different sharpening, but also its cross section of the blade.

Corners of sharpening tools and hardness of their blades

So, the sharpening angle of the instrument (the chisels, the knife of the electrofugum) is known. Now the electricoid will have to fasten the focus so as to provide this angle when sharpening. The rotation of the abrasive stone should not be accompanied by vibration and beats. In the presence of the latter, they carry out the edit of the circle (a piece of abrasive type KZ). Of course, the sharpening lead when the circle is rotated towards the cutting edge of the blade.

a - knife for vegetables and bread; b - Knife for rootepodes; in - knife for meat; r - hunting knife; d - metal scissors

The ability to remove the chamfer on the cutting tool, that is, to form it with the blade, is the main premise for the proper sharpening of the tool. During the chamfer removal, the tool takes to the right hand, and the blade is slightly pressed with the left hand (below the sharpening site) to the abrasive circle. In the process of sharpening, the chamfer begins to be even in the same plane across the entire width of the cutting part of the instrument, for which this cutting part Constantly "water" by emery to the right and left. Periodically, the tool is cooled in water, not allowing the occurrence of colors of dealing with the blades, that is, its overheating.

At first, when sharpening it is better to use the focus, and when the experience will come, the need for itself will be discharged by itself. An ordinary kitchen knife is not very difficult to sharpen and without stop, but the knife blade in hands must be kept quite firmly, constantly controlling the process of forming the chamfer, which is evenly removed from both sides of the blade, not allowing its overheating on both sides. For sharpeners-novice, we recommend it for sharpening knives a very simple focus in the form of a plate. During work, the outer blade relies on the plate, helping the sharpener to hold the blade in the same position relative to the abrasive (in this case the sharpening angle is controlled by the sharpening itself).

The drainage of the tool on the electricoid is considered finished when Sherbin and other flaps remain on the blade, and on the cutting edge of the blade, a solid line of burr is formed, that is, a thin roller from the particles of the undergraduate metal. Such a burr is easy to detect to the touch with a thumb right handIf you spend on a "tangent" to the cutting edge. Bercoon can also be seen by examining "on the light" tool blade towards the cutting edge. You should not, of course, after sharpening, we have this burr, as in this case, it is certainly formed on the cutting edge, which will be formed, which will then be difficult to withdraw. To get rid of the burr, the abrasive circle with smaller grain is set to sharpen. As a result, after sharpening the chamfer, the burr becomes completely imperceptible.

Editing and adjusting the cutting edge produce paste gay, applied to a solid felt circle. Note that when the instrument finishing, its blade is placed during the rotation of the felt circle (from the blade of the blade), and not towards the edge. The completion of the finishes is determined by the appearance of a thin brilliant line of 0.5-1 mm wide and the disappearance of the burr (it should be covered). To prevent education at the sharpened tool after the adjustment of the "false sting" from the burr, the blade with pressure is carried out through solid wood. After that, again carry out the adjustment. The sharpness of the tool sharpening usually check, slightly by checking the paper sheet. A sharp blade cuts silently, and stupid mint does not cut.

For sharpening and editing tools manually, bars are needed with a grit number from 40 to 16 and the hardness of CM1, CM2, ST1, and donkeys with grain number 6-4 and the hardness of W or 4T will be needed.

1-block for sharpening EK50SM18K; 2-block for editing of the EC25CM1 type; 3 - dowdow type EK4 W 8K

to make it easier to work, bars and dowders are cut (bleed) in wooden boardcovered with oil or waterproof varnish. First, the tool is sharpened on a large-grained bar of the EC50CM1 type 8k to the formation of a burr on the cutting edge. Manual sharpening is tedious and time-consuming, but remember our ancestors who only used it, and achieved excellent results. The tool is kept so that the chamfer to the entire plane flew to the bar. Sharpening is carried out with smooth and smooth movements by leaving the blade on the bar forward or back or in a circle. The work continues until a thin burr is formed on the edge of the blade.

If you sharpen a tool "with one chamfer", with the appearance of the burr you are moving to editing and finishing the cutting edge. At the knives, the cutting edge of which is formed by two chamfer, after sharpening to the burr, one chamfer transfers to the processing of another chamfer. Both chamfer sharpened evenly until the burr will not be as noticeable.

a - right; B - wrong

During sharpening, the bars are necessarily wetted with water, which improves the sharpening process (instead of water, or kerosene is suitable, or a mixture of glycerol with ethyl alcohol). Next, the cutting edge of the instrument is ruled on a bar with a granular number 20-16. After editors, I am put on the face. Covering kitchen knives usually do not spend, but for the rest cutting tool It is obligatory.

For refinement, the tool usually use bars size. 200x50x20 mm made of electrocorund or silicon carbide (abrasive 4 grain number, HT Hardness). First, the rear edges of the bar are grouped by the circular motions of the bar, gradually reducing the pressure of the appeal (the latter is at an angle of 1-2 ° to the rear face plane). When creating a convection chamfer, 0.5 mm wide is moving to the front of the front face, then again begin to process the back edge.

In conclusion, the crust of the cutting edge is carried out on the leather belt, rubbing the ga paste. There is another receipt of sharpening and tool editing when the tool blade remains motionless, and the sharpening lead, making circular movements (with a certain pressure) before the formation of a burr on the cutting edge. In this case, the bar hold firmly, tightly pressing its face to the chamfer plane, in no case is not a puffy cutting edge.

The working line of any bar must be as flat as possible. To give births to such a form, the bars are squeezed with a micropowder on a cast-iron plate, lubricated with oil. And remember that it is easier to maintain the sharpness of the blade than producing a sharpening and editing to a blunt tool. By the way, the following method is recommended to maintain the sharpness of the blade of kitchen knives: on the blade of the faded knife is carried out by an edge carbide plate T15K6 (such plates are used for turning cutters). At the same time, the plate is kept with a slope of 1-2 ° to the chamfer so that it removes the metal part from the chamfer when moving. The knife, of course, is so treated with chamfer on both sides of the blade. It is clear to carry out such sharpening quickly and easily. But as soon as the blungeance radius exceeds 60 μm, the cutting form of the blade will have to be the help of abrasive.

Never cut with scissors with grinding skins to restore the cutting properties of scissors. The effect will be temporary, and the blades will lose fit form. Sometimes it is enough just to adjust the blades, after which the scissors begin to cut normally again.

With the help of a knife, we prepare food, cut the products and perform other work on the housework. Therefore, it is very important that the knife blade always remains sharp. Theoretically, in the sharpening knives there is nothing complicated, but in practice it turns out that the blade is good, it turns out far from everyone. To have an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat to sharpen knives and how to do it correctly, we advise you to read our article.

Before starting the knife sharpening, it is necessary to figure out which material it is made. I have several knives:

Carbon steel knives are the most affordable, made of iron and carbon alloy, are easily sharpened and remain sharp for a long time. From disadvantages, it can be noted - the oxidation of the blade of the knife from the interaction with food or an acidic medium, because of this, rust and stains appear on the knob, and the products take the metal taste. Over time, after formation on the bottom blade, the oxidation stops.

Low carbon knives of stainless steel - made of iron, chromium, carbon alloy, and in some cases nickel or molybdenum. Stainless steel knives are inferior in carbon steel hardness, so they are quickly stupid and require regular sharpening. The advantages include - resistance to corrosion.

High carbon stainless steel knives are a higher class of knives, with a high carbon content and cobalt or vanadium additives. At the expense of a better alloy, this species The knives do not require frequent sharpeners and is not subject to corrosion.

Knives from Damascus steel - mostly manufactured as cold weapons, but there are also kitchen options. The knife from Damascus has become a multi-layered blade from different alloys high Quality. The disadvantages include the high cost of knives.

Ceramics knives - gained popularity due to their acute and ability for a long time Do not stupid. But besides the advantages, ceramic knives have a significant disadvantage, which consists in their fragility when falling from height and weak stability on the break.

Sharpening tools

Silence (grinder)

Grinding bars are produced with different amounts of abrasive grains per square millimeter. Therefore, for coarse sharpening and finishing grinding, it is necessary to use bars with minimal and maximum content of abrasive. In the rash of foreign production, information on the number of abrasive grains is on their marking. Grinding bars domestic production You have to choose "to the eye" or ask the seller, what dowdle to apply for primary, and what a finish sharpening.

Mechanical sharpener

Mechanical sharpeners are used mainly for sharpening kitchen knives. The sharpening process though happens quickly, but the quality leaves much to be desired. For this reason, for hunting and sports knives, it is recommended to use other sharpening methods.

Electric sharpener

Modern models Electric sharpeners allow you to achieve high quality sharpening, due to the built-in function, automatically determining the angle of inclination of the blade. Electric sharpener is great for household useAnd for sharpening knives in catering organizations. The lineup Electric sharpeners are presented in a wide range, so the price may be different, but if you want your knives always remain sharp, then buy more "advanced" and expensive models.

Musat

Musat - Designed to maintain the sharpness of the knife edge. In shape, Musat resembles a round file with a handle. Musaty are included in knives sets, and many owners, often confuse them with a tool for full sharpening blade. Please note that with the help of Musat you can maintain the sharpness of the sharpened knife, but if the knife finally fastened, it will not work with Musat.

Sharpener "Lansky"

This sharpener is used to sharpen small and medium-sized knives. The design of the sharpener allows you to sharpen the blade under your chosen angle. The "LANSKY" sharpener consists of a rod with a removable creeper and two corners of the connected with each other. Corners simultaneously perform the functions of the knife for the knife and the scale to select the sharpening angle. The sharpening set also includes sharpening bars of different grainies with Ansi marking.

Sharpening and grinding machines

The grinding machines are mainly used in production, for high-precision sharpening blades of rotating shafts. In addition to high-precision machines, there are abrasive circles with electrical drive And rotating discs for grinding. Sharpening with knives on such machines, should be made only by an experienced master, because due to the speed of rotation of the circle or disk and the high heating temperature, with any unsuccessful movement, the blade of the knife will be unusable.

Self sharpening blade

Docking knife with the assist

Sharpening blades produced by grinding bar is considered to be the highest quality, of course, provided if it produced it an experienced master. To put the knife about the grinder bar do the following:

How to sharpen a knife with a sharpening bar, see also in the video:

Hunting knife sharpening on the lansky sharpener

Hunting knives are made of solid steel, so their initial sharpening requires sharpening bars with a low content of abrasive grains.

How to sharpen knives in the Sharpener "Lansky", look at the video:

Sharpening scissors

Scissors sharpening must be produced on a special sharpening machine. Sharpening blades with the help of foolish ( emery paper, the edges of the glass, etc.) can for a while improve the sharpness of scissors, but not long. If you do not have the ability to make scissors from a professional, you can try to make an independent sharpening about abrasive stone. When sharpening, you need to observe a few simple rules:

I sharpening scissors, do not hurry, patience in this case will be your ally.

How to quickly sharpen scissors, you can also look in the video:

Sharpening blades Rubanka and Ether

Sharpening the blade Rubanka and the chisels are practically no different from each other. Therefore, the sharpening process described below is applicable to both tools:

In addition to manual sharpening, the chisel can be sharpened on the machine with a rotating abrasive disk:

Do not forget that when sharpening products on the machine, a lot of sparks and small particles are formed, which can be in mind, so be sure to work in protective glasses. And in order not to damage your hands about the twinkling disk, dress gloves.

How to make tools you can also learn from the video:

Tips for rapid sharpening blades with appliances

A rock

Quickly give the sharpness with a knife in a hike or on a picnic, using an ordinary cobblestone. Use any stone breathing on Earth, instead of a sharpening bar and swipe the blade of the knife, along its surface. With a razor sharpness you do not achieve, but back the knife in the working condition.

Second knife

Complete two knives at once, without grinding stones and fixtures, it is quite possible. To do this, you need to take both hands on the knife and start sharpening the blade of one knife about the blade of the other. After 5-10 minutes of such work, the knives will become sharper than before.

Glass items

The blade of the knife can be slightly focused on the rude edge of glass or ceramic items. For example, about the bottom of the glade or the edge tile tile. The main thing is that the surface is rough.

Leather belt

The leather belt is longer suitable for the finish finish and giving the blade of the knife of razor sharpness than for coarse sharpening. But if there is nothing at hand beyond the belt, then you can try to put a knife about it. For this, the belt needs to give a stretch and start led by a blade, strong sharpness you can not achieve, but polish the knife to shine.

Having learned yourself to sharpen knives and tools, you will buy the skill that use you throughout your life!

During the operation of the cutting tool ( cutting edge) blinking.

The tool does not cut the fibers of wood, and sminets and breaks them.

As a result, the quality of the treated surface decreases and the efforts required to process the workpiece.

The final result of your work with wood depends on the quality of the tool sharpening.

Cutting tool must be regularly sharpened.

This can be done manually on Bruke (donkey), manually on the sandpaper or with a sharpening machine (electric).

Powerful

The tool sharpening consists of three operations:

1.Giving the right shape and sharpening angle(Chernovo Operation).

Removing the large layer of metal on the sandpaper, to produce angles close to the desired.

Required for independently manufactured tools or with a damaged cutting edge.

For tools purchased in the store is not required.

The chisel is required
(blade damaged)

2.Revision - getting a smooth static plane (chamfering) without bumping it on the edge and without overheating steel (you need cool tool).

With this operation, the metal is raised on one side of the cutting part of the tool (like the chisels) or from two sides (like a knife) with the formation of the blade form required for this tool.

Another task is to put a chamfer under a certain angle in relation to the second plane (plac or chamfer) of the blade sting required specifically for this tool.

This angle, called the sharpening angle, is different: 7-8 ° in a knife, 15-25 ° in the chisels, 37-42 ° of the Rubankov.

The tool sharpening angle is in strict dependence on the angle of inclination of the cutting edge (plane) of the blade relative to the surface of the wood, which determines conditions of cutting (forces applied, cutting surface quality).

In the knife, the chisels, the ax, the angle of inclination of the cutting edge and the sharpening angle can vary in the process of work, depending on the need (cutting wood by hand or shocks with a hammer, in China), the Platank has these corners should be stricted.

As a result, sharpening the blade and the chamfer of the knife Rubankka, chisels, the chisels should be straightforward, have the right cornerand located at right angles to side faces.

This is checked by galnik and special templates.

When sharpening on the electrical chile, it is necessary to periodically cool tool (blade) in water, because with severe heating (overheating) the internal structure of the metal changes (Hardness decreases).

Bold the instrument on sharpened before formation throughout the blade (on the edge) of a thin and even strip of burrs (1).

The chisel is required
(smooth edge of burrs formed)

3.Edit - Getting the desired sharpness of the blade (with a large increase, it can be seen that the blade is excised to bezbinn from the sandstone of Abrasive and is like a peer with very small cloths).

Such a blade will cut wood, but the slide trail will be uneven, not brilliant.

The tool after sharpening and crosses are grinding on a bar with very small grain (the tool is tightly pressed against the bar and move straight and circular motions, while it is necessary to monitor the chamfer to the entire plane to fly to the bar) or polish on the machine with a special polishing circle.

During editing, it is necessary to periodically rotate the tool on one side to another, while both edges of the blade will not be polished to the brilliance, and the burr will not disappear completely.

Hand sharpening
1 - chisel; 2 - adaptation; 3 - bar (donel).

Checking angle to sharpened blades after sharpening
(with the template)

Verification of rectinity of the blades of the coated

For sharpening knobs First align the teeth in height (fuguet).

This is done for old saws, whose teeth have become different heights.

Hacksaw fix in vice and fugue teeth trothed or flat file fixed in wooden Bruke.

After that spend wiring of teeth saws (If you want to).

After divorce, the teeth are sharpening.

The saw blade should be well clamped in the vice between wooden bars, as close as possible to the teeth.

First, a trothed or rhombic file with a teeth, bent "from themselves".

After completing the work on one side, the web is rotated 180 ° and sharpened the second side.

Each tooth is sharpened before the formation of the cutting edge is flat, straight, sharp, without burrs.

Saws for longitudinal sawing cold at right angles with respect to the canvas (direct sharpening).

For transverse - at an angle of 60 ° -80 ° (oblique sharpening).

Fougaling of teeth:
1 - block for a file; 2 - file; 3 - saw blade;
4 - Bar for fastening a saw.

Sharpening Tooth Saw And Check
Uniform divorce teeth:
1 - pattern; 2 - teeth; 3 - saw blade; 4 - file;
A - for longitudinal sawing; B - for cross-saw.

Sharpening two-handed saws

Safety at the sharpening tool

1. On the machine to work only in glasses or with a protective screen.
2. And sharpening does not bend close to the grinding circle.
3. To carry out the fingers on the blade of the instrument.
4. Do not overheat the blade tool.
5. Contain the correctness of sharpening.
6. For fastening the saw and a file to use lumps.
7. Forget that the chamfer comes into contact with the surface of the bar with the entire plane so as not to spoil the sharpening angle.

In the process of operation, the cutting edges of the instruments are stupid, which leads to a decrease in the quality of processing parts and blanks, to a decrease in labor productivity, as well as to the wear of the tools themselves. Proper sharpening solves all the above problems. The novice master should study recommendations for proper sharpening tools in various ways.

In order to bring the cutting edge of any tool into suitability for further work, you must follow the following.

Formation of primary chamfer

The process is the processing of the blade using a sharpening machine or a flat stone in such a way as to form a primary chamfer (SCOS at an angle of 25 or 30 degrees). It is important to comply with certain rules.

The electric tool for sharpening will be more efficient if it is necessary to eliminate deep jar and chips.
The frequency of rotation of the abrasive circle should not exceed 2000 rpm, the grit of the circle is selected in the range of 100-120 units.
It is recommended to sharpen abrasive on the basis of aluminum oxide, as they (in contrast to conventional silicon) are capable of providing proper quality of metal processing. In addition, such circles do not overheat metal.
For manual sharpening Using sandpaper or abrasive stone with graininess in the range of 100-320 units.
In order to prevent overheating and oxidation of the surface of the edge (which leads to mitigating the metal), during the sharpening process, it is necessary to periodically cool the blade, lowering it into cold water.

Important: The primary chamfer form depends on the method of sharpening. Manually formed flat chamfer, and with the help of electrical out - concave.

Formation of cutting edge

After the primary chamfer will be ready, it is necessary to bring the blade to the required sharpness. In the process of finishing the following is performed.

The tool is fed to the plane of the abrasive circle at an angle, increased by 4-5 ° from the previous position. The edge of the blade must be processed so as to get a narrow microfack.
For sharpening, sandpaper 600-8000 units are used. graininess. It is important to stop the process in time to prevent the impairment of the cutting tool.
The effective grinding of the edge is performed in two stages: first by abrasive graininess 1000-4000 units, and then - 5000-8000 units.
Make right shape cutting edge with the help of "cart" - sharpenerin which the tool is installed and fixed under the necessary angle. This sharpening method is suitable for narrow (minimum 6 mm) and wide (up to 73 mm) blades, which are used in the plane. The roller allows you to freely move the blade installed under the selected angle, along the surface of the abrasive. In the process of work, the position of the roller is monitored: it should not be broken from the supporting surface.

IMPORTANT: The microfas width should not exceed 1 mm. In the process, the finishes should be regularly verified at what stage the tool is found. Otherwise, it will be necessary to re-form a chamfer.

How applies sandpaper tool sharpening

For work on a sharpening machine, sandpaper 220, 320, 600, 1200 grit is used, for finishing - within 2000-4000. Revision (polishing) is of great importance for wood tools: acute edge efficiently handles the material and not so quickly stupid. Sharpening method is as follows.

The material with a solid and flat surface is selected (it can be a piece of granite slab, thick glass, laminated DPP or ordinary wooden bar). It is more convenient to use a 75 × 200 mm bar.
The sandpaper passes on the bar. Several bars are manufactured with different abrasives grain.
The device is placed on the workbench over the rubber gasket (for stability).
The tool is installed at an angle of 25-30 ° for chamfering. With a moderate pressing blade moves along the plane of the bar.
The blade with another number of abrasive is performed.
The back side of the cutting tool is polished (the plane near the cutting edge is 10-12 mm width).

All advantages and disadvantages should be known:

cheap: Emery paper and glue for making tools will not require significant expenses;
availability: necessary materials there is in any construction store;
after draining the tool, there will be no dirt on the workbench;
fast emery wear requires its periodic replacement.

Sharpening tools with aquatic stone

For work it is necessary to have at its disposal abrasives with graininess of 1000, 4000, 8000 grit. The technology provides for the processing of the cutting edge using three stones.

Tip: Reduce costs can be used if you purchase combined stoneswhose sides have different graininess.

The features of the method are as follows:

before dragging the tool, the abrasive must be soaked (immersed in water for 15-20 minutes);
in the process of work, the stone should be periodically moistened;
the finishes begins with the processing of the blade with a stone of 1000 grit, after which they go to 4000 grain, and then 8000 grit.

It is important to know: Abrasives with graininess of 1000 and 4000 grit can be kept in water for a long time, but smaller can come into disrepair.

The bad, and what is good method.

The service life of the aquatic stones is small. The surface of the abrasive must be periodically aligned to eliminate the furrows.
For refinement tool on water, a lot of time is required.
Water for wetting stones should be periodically changed to avoid pollution of the workbench.
Wet stones after work should be keenly dry in the warm room. In the cold, they can collapse.

More details with the process of sharpening the tool on the water stone can be found, watching video.

Sharpening tools with diamond plates

Diamond plates are designed to sharpen the cutting edges of tools made of solid stamps. IN practical application Bilateral plates are comfortable, 190-200 mm long grain 600/1200 grit. Work with them for certain rules.

A flat chamfer is formed with a plate with a plate with a grain of 600 grit, the finishes are performed by a 1200 grit abrasive.
The plate is wetted with water.
The blade of the sharpened tool is located relative to the abrasion at an angle and moves along its plane. Sewage particles of metal accumulate in special holes of the steel substrate.

Tip: Special oil has proven itself as an anti-corrosion product, but it is not effective for lubrication. It is recommended to replace oil with water (the surface of the abrasive will not be so rapidly dirty). After use, diamond plates need to dry.

In the process of work, plumbing and carpentry tools are stupid, and work with them becomes less efficient. The quality of surface treated surfaces is worsen. It is necessary to the timely and correct drainage of the cutting edges.

How to sharpen the ax do it yourself

Axes with a straight blade require the cost of strength, and they are climbing chip. To put the work tool in order, during sharpening it is necessary to consider the following.

The scope of use: the ax may be carpenter, fishing or can be used as a kolun.
Material for processing which you need an ax (breed and variety of wood, its humidity).
Metal brand from which an ax is made.

Depending on this, the shape of the edge of the ax blade is selected, which can be:

oval (for rods and wood cutting);
razor (for accurate carpentry work);
wedge-shaped ( universal view The edges for the ax suitable for the ring and to align the wood surface).

The technique of sharpening an ax used in everyday life provides for the processing of the blade in two stages.

Primary sharpening: The chamfer with an angle of 15 ° is formed.
Rendering: A cutting edge is formed with an angle of 25 ° (for household instruments).

During the drainage process should be avoided:

overheating blade;
shifts of the sharpening tool;
skewing and weak fixation of the abrasive circle;
use of a circle with uneven wear;
the shaft of the electric motor sharpened.

Nuances sharpening saws

Before you sharpen a saw, you need to check the divorce of the teeth. If necessary - to dilute them so that through one tooth the slope was in different directions. After that, the teeth are sharpened on one side. The cutting edge should be directed towards the handle.

Cut the drills with your own hands

The drills that are used for metal processing are faster. The cutting edge of this drill can be restored.

The main points for which you need to pay attention to:

the crooked edge must be in the same plane with the axis of the abrasive stone;
during operation, you should moderately press the abrasive drill;
it is necessary to monitor the formation of the edges: they must be the same length.

There are two types of sharpeners.

Single bed (for drills diameter up to 3 mm). The drill moves parallel working surface sharpening circle.
Conical (two-dipled). The drill is brought to the abrasion at an angle and swaying from side to side. The method is suitable for drills with a diameter of more than 3 mm.

Rendering is performed on a soft stone.

Tip: To drain the drills, we use special devices (machines), allowing you to securely fix the tool at the desired angle.

How to sharpen the chisel and the plans

In order to perform work quickly and efficiently, you should use some tips.

Before draining, the abrasive circle or bar must be placed for several minutes in kerosene.
The blade of the chisels or the planer is kept up to 30 minutes in the solution of the cooking salt.
For the finishing, you can use homemade grinding machinewhich can be made from the old electric shaver. To do this, instead of knives install metal plate with bleached grinding paper.

Errors when sharpening the tool

During the sharpening of the instrument performed different waysshould be avoided below the listed errors.

It is necessary to periodically interrupt the process and cool the blade in water. Otherwise, overheated metal (this can be recognized by color change) becomes fragile. As a result, sharpening has to be renovated, and this leads to premature tool wear.
The fixation of the flavored blade is not enough. It is important that the machine is installed on a massive, well-fortified bed (workbench), which should remain fixed during operation.
The abrasive circle should sit tightly on the shaft of the electrician. Its skews, excessive and uneven wear, as well as the shaft beating are not allowed.
It is not recommended to sharpen a small tool on a circle intended for wide blades. Narrow grooves on the abrasive will interfere with high-quality metal processing.

Finally - video tutorials at sharpening tool.

It is quite difficult to assign a knife to manually. We have to work for some time to keep the permanent sharpening angle, which is completely difficult. Easy the task can device for sharpening knives. There are factory options. But for good specimens you need to drop a couple of hundred dollars, and this is clearly a lot. The good news is that these devices are easy to make with their own hands. And many homemade sharpeners For knives, no worse than the functionality than the famous manufacturers, but they are cheaper than more cheaper.

Basics of sharpening knives

Knives have miscellaneous application And even not conventional kitchen There are several of them. There is for cutting bread, other soft products, there is for cutting meat, cutting bones, other solid items. And these are only household. But there are still those who take hunting and fishing. If you look around, you will see that they all have a different sharpening angle (this is if their homes have not sharpened). It is the angle of sharpening and there is the most important characteristic, determined by the appointment of this blade.

At what angle

The sharpening angle is determined on the basis of the main scope of the specific blade:

it general recommendationsintroduced on the basis of many years of experience. There is, however, options: some blades have several zones with different sharpening. It wishes them more versatile, but the complexity of sharpening increases many times.

From said it follows that the device for sharpening knives should be able to exhibit the desired sharpening angle. And this is the main difficulty in its design and manufacture.

Than to sharpen

For sharpening knives use grinding stones of various grainies. They are conditionally divided into coarse, medium and small. Why conditionally? Because B. different countries Announced grain designation. The most convenient classification is in the number of grains per unit area. It is expressed in numbers: 300, 600, 1000, etc. Some firms duplicate more english terms. Here is an approximate division:

In addition to grainability, the grinding bars also distinguish between the origin: there are natural origin (shale, corundum, etc.), there are ceramic and diamonds. What better? It is difficult to say - a matter of taste, but natural faster steps and rarely be fine-grained.

Natural winding in water before use or simply wet it. They absorb water and, when sharpening, from water and separated particles of abrasive particles on the surface, an abrasive paste is formed, which increases sharpening efficiency. For the same purpose, it is possible to use a special little (Honing Oil) or a mixture of water and soap (someone else like). In general, with each of the grinding stones you need to try all these options and choose the best.

A shape of a grinding stone for sharpening knives - bar, and it is desirable that it is his length much more than the length of the blade - to sharpen easier. Convenient bars with double grain - on the one hand is larger, on the other - smaller. For sharpening the knives of the usual purpose, it is enough to have two brus with an average grain (different) and two small (one can be very small).

Order manual sharpening

Fixture for sharpening knives only facilitates the process of guiding the edge, because knowledge of manual sharpening techniques is required. Without them, it is impossible to correct the knife.

The order of sharpening knives is:

This can be assumed that the shaft of the knife is completed. Some still bring the edge on the old belt. A piece of belt can be fixed on a wooden bar (gluing, not to kill), grate the paste of the goow. Further to spend alternately alternately, then the other side, but by turning the cutting edge back. So the last grooves, left by abrasive, are not "cut down" with the belt.

How to make a homemade knife sharpening fixture

All self-made sharpeners for knives solve the main task, they allow you to accurately withstand a given angle of inclination of the bar to the blade, which is very important for obtaining a good cutting edge. There is so simple devices, there is a little more difficult, but allowing you to work with great comfort. Choose your taste.

Some of the options - from the primary means

Simple device for sharpening knives

In essence, this is the holder for grinding bars. All elementary: two triangles of wood, which are connected by studs with "lamb". Between the corners, the bar is clamped at the desired angle. You can set an angle using the transporter, a special program on a smartphone or using the rules of trigonometry (rectangular triangle).

Knife Sharpening Device - Abrasive Holder

When sharpening on such a device, the knife must be kept all the time directed strictly vertically. It is much easier than to hold it at a certain angle.

The same idea has a different embodiment: on a reliable basis, make movable holders in which are inserted and fixed in right position Bruks. The corporate prototype in the photo below.

Homemade adaptation for sharpening knives is made of wooden bars. It turns out easy, so as not to move from the place, it must be fixed. In order not to keep your hand, you can use clamps.

Rotary holders allow you to set the specified angle, and then fix it with the help of "Barashkov"

A similar adaptation for sharpening knives, of course, makes it easier to work, but it is still quite difficult to withstand angle: it is necessary to control the verticality of the blade all the time. A similar habit over time is produced, but it is difficult to start.

Advanced on wheels

An interesting variant of the hand cleaner for knives with a fixed bar and a cart on the wheels on which the knife is fixed. It is made on the basis of sharpeners for the knives of the chisels and the Rubankov. With a knife, such a device works well, but it must be adapted to sharpening the rounded edge.

In this embodiment, as in manual sharpening, the stationary bar, and the blade of the knife mounted on the movable trolley is moving. The angle is set by the height of the location of the bar relative to the site on which the blade is attached. Feature this device - It is necessary for the table to be smooth. It can be a tabletop from natural stone, you can normal table Put the glass.

In the above embodiment, the angle varies slightly, which is usually sufficient for sharpening of the same type knives -kohonic, for example. If necessary, the design can be improved by adding holders (in the photo below).

All this is realized very simply, as it reminds the usual constructor: the planks, the holes in them, is going to all on the bolts and screws.

To ensure the fixability of the bar also has a device.

Plus all this design, which is easy to turn the knife while maintaining perpendicularity on the rounded area, and also very easy to handle on the other side: you need to turn the cart. For this, four pairs of wheels are made.

Homemade manual knife sharpening machine

Slightly more complex and much more comfortable homemade deviceswhich are made on the basis of well-known branded devices. They have an adjustable platform on which the knife is fixed. The playground is set at a given angle. The bar is attached on the movable bar attached to the rack.

The devices made with their own hands are repeated the design presented above, but there are some differences. There are many options. We give some.

Option One: a fixed platform on which the blade is fixed

This device is made of laminate residues (can be used), two steel rods with a diameter of 8 mm and movable fastening.

In this design, there is a fixed base, which the platform with a knife retainer is coming on ordinary hinges. The near edge of the site can be lifted at some angle, convenient for work. But in the rest she is still.

On the vertically installed steel rod, there is a movable installed retainer, in which the side of the loop is coming. A rod is inserted into it, on which the bar is fixed. This loop is simple, but not the most the best decision: No tight fixation, which means the angle will "walk".

Particular attention should be paid to the fixer BROUSE. On the rod at some distance from the edge (about 30-35 cm) focus. It will be a fixed retainer. The second make movable, it is fixed after installing the bar using the screw and sliced \u200b\u200bin the body of the thread holder. The second option is to cut the thread on the rod and adjust the installed bar with the nut.

The knife holder is one or two steel plates, fixed on the moving pad. They are fixed moving - with the help of screws and "barashkov". Weave the fastener insert the blade of the knife, clamp it. Shift it very difficult. Then, installing a stilet with a fixed bar in the loop, adjust its height so that the desired angle is set.

You can, as in the photo, make patterns with the right corners and seek the coincidence of the planes. After cross Planck Fastened, you can work - to carry out Bru in the right direction.

This knife sharpening device works well, that's just moving abrasive along the blade only when the kitchen knife is sharpened. Classic sharpening - movement perpendicular to the cutting edge. On the straight part of the blade this can be achieved. If the blade is short, it will be almost perpendicular, but on the rounded part on a fixed holder, this is not done. And all such devices suffer from this disadvantage. Once again: they are an excellent option for sharpening kitchen knives (below another good version from the same series).

Option Second: with a movable platform and magnetic holder

In this embodiment homemade adaptation For sharpening knives, the problem of previous sharpening solved. Here the stationery remains, which sets the corner of the bar. The bar is moving freely on the guide, exhibited under the desired angle. The knife is attached on a moving table. It is possible, as in the presented version, make a magnetic holder, it is possible - the usual metal plate and "barashkov". The table moves so that the movement of the abrasive is perpendicular to. Actually, everything is in the video.

One refinement: In this case, it is very important that the surface on which a table with a fixed knife is moving is horizontal and smooth. You can put the glass or use the polymer countertop (marble will also go).