Knife handmade homemade. Making a simple do-it-yourself knife sharpener. Sharpening curved blades

It was based on improvised material - an old ceramic tile that has served its time.

I decided to describe the experience gained, and since I didn’t have a camera with me, the next day I made a new grinding stone with step-by-step photographs of the entire manufacturing process.

Thus, I prepared practical advice for a home master explaining how to make a grindstone from ceramic tiles with my own hands and sharpen a knife on it with explanatory diagrams, pictures and a video. They complement

The whole work of creating the second bar and photographing it took me about half an hour. The same time, and possibly faster, you will need when making it yourself. Although, I do not urge you to do homemade work: you can just go to the store and buy a grindstone for money.

However, I hope that there will be people who will find my information useful.

About the geometry of figures when sharpening

The whetstone, due to frictional forces, changes the shape of the blade and wears itself out. This means that two contact surfaces on both objects work at once, influencing each other.

If the sharpening knife gets in a blunt state and should acquire the shape of a cutting edge close to ideal, then the grindstone works the other way around: its normal state is violated.

Knife blade shape

I will repeat the cross-sectional diagram of the blade from the previous article, where all its angles and planes are described in detail.

Let us consider in more detail the role of the leads on the formation of the cutting edge in different designs of knife blades. It in all models should be created by a single very thin line without depressions, protrusions and notches.

The word blade has a root - a wedge that defines its cross section. The shape of the knife can be:

1. rectilinear;
2. curved.

Cutting edge of a straight knife

The shape of a straight blade is the simplest.

In perfect condition, the cutting edge is a pronounced straight and very thin line. However, there are “masters” who, on an emery wheel, simply apply the blade to the edge and grind it from both sides according to the “How it will turn out” principle, bending the supplies. This disrupts the operation of the blade and its sharpening.

Curved knife cutting edge

For such a blade, the cutting edge is created as a line of conjugation of two curved surfaces of the same type. Both types of blades: convex and concave require much more attention from the sharpener.

Grindstone surfaces

For proper sharpening of the blade, the working planes must be kept in perfect condition and be free of depressions and bumps.

A good whetstone, laid on the table, has a flat surface located.

If it is broken, then the stone will distort the geometry of the cutting edge of the blade. This often happens when the sharpener uses too much force or drives the knife over one area of ​​the work surface. Defects will appear on it immediately due to uneven wear.

It is unlikely that you will be able to sharpen a knife with such a tool.

Bar manufacturing technology

Material selection

I made my first homemade whetstone from ceramic tiles 15 by 15 cm, about 6 cm. I don’t know the type of ceramic material. I had to grind off a layer of building glue and the ribs of the corrugated surface from the back to a single level.

To write an article the next day, I took a ready-made piece of Sacmi ceramics from Italy, which was left after the renovation of the bathroom. It has already been cut to a size of 30 by 8 cm. These dimensions allow the blade to be driven along a twice as long trajectory: it is easier to sharpen the knife this way.

From the back side of the tile there was only a corrugated surface without foreign mortar. It needed to be sharpened and leveled to a single base level.

Processing tools

Its length is 25 cm more than the diameter of my emery wheel, and the outer and side surfaces are relatively even, although far from ideal. The grain size of the stone is quite high.

I observed similar work several decades ago, when the hostess corrected the blade on the brick of the hearth of the Russian stove.

The process of making a grindstone

The work came down to:

• relief elimination;
• fixing on a wooden base;
• tests.

relief removal

He laid the tile on the brick and manually began to grind the edges of the corrugation.

However, the length of the brick is shorter than my tile. This created some difficulties. I tried to work on two bricks of the same size.

The work goes faster, but it is necessary to control the joint of the ends of both stones and the position of the ceramics.

Since tile processing occurs on random surfaces from improvised materials, the condition of the surface to be ground should be periodically assessed. On it are formed places of different heights. This requires adjustment of effort and direction of movement.

The rubbing surfaces of bricks and tiles create abrasive dust. It must be removed.

I tried to wash it off with water, but I came to the conclusion that for my conditions it’s enough just to sweep one face of the bar from the brick and shake it off the tile with a sharp movement.

This work must be completed when zones free of relief are formed on the created surface and only separate very thin sections with it remain.

At this stage, you can stop, but it is better to take a strip of sandpaper, wrap it around a flat wooden board or metal plate, and use this tool to bring the plane of the created whetstone to an ideal state.

After processing with sandpaper, you will need to wash off the abrasive dust from the new grindstone with ordinary water.

It turned out a homemade whetstone from improvised means with a smooth grinding surface made of ceramics.

For the convenience of further work with it in different places, I make an additional basis.

Design improvement

It took the simplest set that every home master has:

• a piece of board a little wider than a grindstone;
• hacksaw;
• awl;
• screwdriver;
• screws.

Mounting process

I put the whetstone on the edge of the board, as shown in the photo above, and with an awl I make markings for screwing in the fixing screws from the opposite side.

For this purpose, I used not modern, but old Soviet-made screws.

They must be screwed in so that the caps hold the end of the ceramic and are recessed a third below its height. This will sharpen the knife without the possibility of touching it with fasteners.

Similarly, I make fastening from the sides of the bar.

On the remaining fourth side, I fix the ceramics with screws and corners.

The lower holes of the corners will allow you to attach the entire structure to prepared nails without a hat on a workbench. At the same time, they will not interfere with the work of this device on a regular table.

It remains to choose a convenient length of the handle of the whetstone and cut off the excess board with a hacksaw.

The tool for sharpening a knife is handmade. It remains to evaluate it in the work.

Tests

To test how such a whetstone works, an old knife from a cutlery set with a curved blade was taken.

Literally after several sharpening movements, clearly visible traces of metal filings appeared on the grinding surface, remaining from the processing of the blade.

They must be washed off periodically with water.

To sharpen a knife properly, the surface of the whetstone must be kept clean. Then she will work with the maximum effect of her capabilities.

The cutting edge of the knife formed very quickly.

I did not finish it on the skin with GOI paste, but simply checked how it works on paper and the hair of the hand. The blade did a good job with paper, but turned out to be unsuitable as a razor: processing was carried out too quickly, and polishing was not carried out.

Yes, in everyday life this is usually not necessary. After all, an elite tool can always be brought to a shaving state. The main thing is that a well-functioning whetstone can be quite simply made from ceramic tiles with your own hands by any home craftsman.

Features of creating a cutting edge on a bar

I will supplement and recall the basic sharpening rules that must be observed:

• it is necessary to work carefully and carefully, without applying significant efforts: one careless movement can ruin the approach plane with the cutting edge;
• when sharpening a knife, the stability of the angle of its inclination to the bar and the width of the supplies are constantly monitored;
• the blade should always be directed along the movement with a sharp edge, and not from the side of the butt.

If the blade is strongly curved by incorrect sharpening, then it is permissible to grind off all the protruding parts on the emery to a general level, and then process it into a bar.

Using a whetstone, the sharpening angle is created by controlling the tilt of the blade, which is half its value. To do this, the approach plane must be exactly on the surface of the bar.

Sharpening curved blades

Knives with a convex shape

When sharpening, such a blade is applied with an approach to the surface of the grindstone and they make not a direct, but a curvilinear movement, which repeats the shape of the cutting edge. It must always be perpendicular to the movement being made.

Knives with a concave shape

Such a blade design is not common in household use, for example, among gardeners in a grafting tool. Their processing is very complex and requires special skills and tools.

Without proper preparation, a concave blade is easy to ruin with an ordinary bar. Such sharpening must be studied separately or entrusted to an experienced master. Therefore, I will not consider its features here.

Even the most primitive grinder costs money. This thing is necessary, since scissors and especially knives must always be in good condition. In the country, sharpened tools such as pruners, a shovel, an ax and others are required even more often; sharpening them manually is not an option at all - only time to kill. You can make a sharpening machine with your own hands, especially if you have an unnecessary old washing machine. How to do it, first things first.

What we take for the manufacture of the machine

To assemble a home grinder, you will mainly need a working motor from a washing machine. You can take a 200 W electric motor from a Soviet washing machine, for example, from Riga-17 CMP-1.5. Although some say that the optimal power is 400 watts, and others say that with a power of more than 300 watts, the grinding wheel can break into pieces. For rare use of the grinder, a motor of 1000 rpm is enough.

Nothing else is required from the washing machine, everything else will have to be machined or cut from improvised material with your own hands. And you will need:

• metal 2-2.5 mm thick for a casing on a grindstone;
• tube for turning the flange;
• grindstone;
• nut for fixing the stone on the pulley;
• starting device;
• electrical cable with plug;
• metal corner or wooden block for the manufacture of the bed;

We prepare the flange

The first step is to make a flange or buy ready-made. It should have a diameter similar to the engine bushing, and a whetstone should fit well on it. The flange is a transition piece between the engine and the grinder. If you make it from a piece of pipe with your own hands, then it is necessary to cut a thread at one end of it, approximately at a distance 2 times greater than the thickness of the circle. A tap is used to cut threads.

The second end of the tube is pressed onto the motor shaft by heating, and then fixed by welding or bolting, drilling a through hole in the tube and in the shaft. Below is a drawing according to which a flange can be machined from a turner. Be sure to include all diameters according to your engine and whetstone when ordering this work.

When cutting threads and putting a grinding wheel on the shaft, you need to take into account which way the wheel will rotate. The thread must be opposite to the rotation of the engine so that the nut holding the circle does not unwind during operation.

We connect the engine and assemble the base

The next stage of work is connecting the engine from the washing machine to an electric wire with a do-it-yourself plug. To do this, it is necessary to find the starting and working winding at the motor from the Soviet machine. To do this, use a multimeter and measure the resistance. The resistance of the working winding is -12 ohms, and the starting winding is 30 ohms. The outputs of the working winding are connected to the electric cable. With this connection, the grinding wheel will need to be rotated by hand. Therefore, many make a start button for this.

You can use a bell button as a trigger, but not a regular capacitor. Connecting a capacitor will cause the washing machine motor winding to burn out.

Using the engine from the washing machine, you can do without the start button. The grinder will work immediately after being plugged into the network. The diagram on the right shows such a connection. The most important thing is to correctly determine the output of the working winding of the motor.

Important! When working with an electrician, you need to be careful, if you doubt your abilities, contact a specialist.

And the last thing to do is the frame or base on which the machine will be mounted. In addition, a protective cover over the grinding wheel is mandatory, because small pieces and dust can fly from the grindstone. A protective cover is best made of metal 2-2.5 mm thick, although there are options for do-it-yourself machines with thick plastic protection. The bed can also be different, the most reliable one is from a metal corner. Some attach the machine to the wall, someone prefers a portable sharpener.

This is the plus of a do-it-yourself sharpener, you make it for yourself so that it is convenient for you to work on it. The photo shows some options for homemade machines.

A grinder is one of the most common do-it-yourself devices made from a washing machine engine. You can make anything out of such a part, if you want, even. But you need to be careful not only in the manufacture of such equipment, but also when using it, so as not to harm your health. Good luck!

A convenient sharpening machine will be useful to every man in the house. After all, the owner is often judged by how sharp this kitchen tool is.

There are many techniques for sharpening knife blades. For example, for a process carried out at home, only a turning bar or ready-made fixtures with an angular gap shape will be sufficient.

To adjust expensive hunting knives, European manufacturers produce devices in the form of solid bars, which are based on a high-strength alloy.

This article will describe the manufacture of a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Why do knives get dull?

What is the reason why a knife becomes dull when cutting? This can be explained by the fact that abrasive particles that are present in the material being cut have a negative effect on the cutting edge. For example, they are present on vegetables, paper. In simple terms, the blade is subject to gradual wear.

The next reason is the inability to keep the blade in the right position all the time. Any trembling of the hand causes the knife to tilt, which entails a lateral load.

sharpening technique

The sharpening technique consists in unified, but at the same time quite laborious methods. The main task is to eliminate damage to the blade. It should be noted that for many, such a procedure as sharpening knives provides a good mood and calm.

The basic rule in this process is to maintain a precisely set constant angle. Strength is not required here. The main thing is that the bar and the blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of sharpening technique.

What needs to be done to maintain a constant angle?

In order for the angle to have a constant index, there are two ways. The first is to acquire the skill of sharpening. The angle indicator can be controlled using a conventional marker. They should paint over the carts and after several sharpening cycles, see how much the paint has survived. If it is worn unevenly, then the blade is not well processed.

If the knife being sharpened is decorative, then the blade should be sealed with adhesive tape so that only the edge for cutting remains open. Even if you unsuccessfully direct your hand, there will be no scratches on the blade.

It is also important that the direction of the blade along the bar is perpendicular to the edge at the points of contact. In fact, this is quite difficult to do. It is acceptable for the angle between the edge and the blade to be less than 90 degrees. But when directed along the cutting edge, this indicator is not suitable.

The abrasive particles of the bar can leave grooves on the blade that will never be sharpened, but will play a positive role when cutting. If the grooves are oriented along the cutting edge, then they will not be useful when cutting. The worst thing is that the cutting edge can break off altogether.

It is important that the bar is long. It should be one and a half or two blade lengths. It is acceptable that the diamond bar be somewhat shorter, as it grinds faster and better. Its width does not play a significant role. If it is wider, then it is more convenient to work on it and there is less chance of leading the blade beyond the device. This can damage its side surface or the blade.

Homemade knife sharpeners come in a variety of designs. All that is required from the manufacturer is the availability of the necessary material and skills in working with tools.

The principle of operation of such a device as a manual machine for sharpening knives with your own hands is to hold the knife blade in a vertical position and drive it along a bar fixed at the right angle. This is much easier than placing the sharpener horizontally and holding the knife at just the right angle.

In order to make a do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, you need a piece of laminate, a wooden rail, sandpaper and a pair of lamb bots. Chipboard or plywood can serve as a replacement for laminate

To make a knife holder, you need to cut off part of the material. So that the bar does not touch the holder when sharpening, it is necessary to clean its edge at an angle with emery.

It is necessary to mark and cut off the top of the vertical rack, which will serve as a support for the bar. The angle is chosen two times less than the one with which the knife will be sharpened. For kitchen knives, it is recommended to take an angle of 10-15 degrees.

A do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, the drawings of which are obviously drawn up, involves the correct calculation of the length of the base of the racks. Please note that the subsequent installation of the transverse support will affect the height indicator. After that, all the details are cut off, and the edges are cleaned.

Holes are marked and drilled in the base and plate for pressing the bolts that fix the blade. When marking, the distance of the holes from the edge of the base is maintained. This is necessary for the versatility of the fixture, since all knives have their own width. The pressure plate is fixed with bolts.

Vertical posts are attached with screws. The moment that the load on the bottom is small is also taken into account. In this case, it is better to resort to using thermal glue. The horizontal bar is attached in exactly the same way. The grinder is almost ready. It remains to make a bar.

For its manufacture, a rail of the desired length is cut. Sandpaper with the desired size of abrasive is glued to one edge. To optimize the result, you can resort to the manufacture of several bars with different grain sizes. The range P600 - P2000 is considered the best. In order to protect your hands from cuts, you need to screw the handle on the top side of the rail.

The result is a homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, characterized by high functionality and practicality. During operation, the device rests against the edge of the table, which is quite comfortable when using it.

A do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine can also be of a different type. In this case, it is based on the M8 threaded rod. Two large washers and nuts were used, which serve to hold a bar 200 mm long.

Closes the thread. A pair of paper clips hold the rail stand at the correct height. This ensures smooth adjustment of the sharpening angle. The base is a beam, the thickness of which is 40 mm. It is supported by hand.

How to sharpen planer knives with your own hands

Every owner who has a planer or jointer has probably faced the problem of sharpening their knives. Buying new ones from time to time is expensive. Knives can be easily sharpened by hand. In this case, specialized machines are used, or if it is used constantly, then it would be better to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself planer knife sharpening machine

To sharpen the planer knife, special sharpening equipment is used. The machine for sharpening knives with your own hands has a compact size. It can be installed in the garage or on the plot.

Many are interested in how to make a machine for sharpening knives with their own hands. To make a device, you need to find certain parts. Perhaps these parts are lying around in your shed or garage. They can also be purchased online.

The machine for sharpening planer knives with your own hands consists of:

• faceplates;
• table;
• engine;
• vacuum cleaner;
• casing.

First of all, you should find a faceplate. This is the most important component of future equipment. It is she who is responsible for the sharpening process. Jointer knives are narrow, and the faceplate serves as a guarantor of complete and safe sharpening. This part will have to be bought new, but the rest can be used old.

It is better to purchase faceplates of German or American production. The average cost of a part is 25,000 rubles.

The next step is to find the engine, the power of which should be 1-1.5 kW. It is not necessary to buy it. Anyone will do, even from an old washing machine. But everyone will surely have a table, a casing and a vacuum cleaner.

The main steps in the manufacture of the device

When the table is selected, the engine is fixed directly below it. A faceplate is attached to the moving part. The engine must initially be equipped with a button that turns the unit on and off. It should be comfortable.

For reliable protection, the faceplate is covered with a square-shaped casing with one cut corner. It is this area that needs to be sharpened.

On the bottom surface of the table in the area of ​​sharpening, a hole is made of the same diameter as that of a vacuum cleaner hose. The presence of a vacuum cleaner is not essential, but it is desirable to install it. It removes unnecessary dirt from blade processing.

What do you need to know?

Mounting the motor under the faceplate base is optional. You can make sure that the parts are connected by means of a belt. In this case, the design will be complex.

A do-it-yourself jointer knife sharpening machine is also suitable for saws and axes.

Ice screw sharpening

The sharp knives of the ice drill enable the fisherman to quickly make holes in the ice of reservoirs. However, over time, all cutting tools become dull and require sharpening.

For fishermen, a quality ice drill is a great pride. Often, true competitions are held on water bodies in terms of the speed of drilling ice holes. And victory does not always smile at young and strong fishermen who are armed with imported devices. There are cases when seasoned fishermen equipped with simple Soviet-made tools are the winners in the competition. The reason for the high hole drilling speed lies in the good sharpening of the knives and the correct setting of the device. Beginner anglers, having bought new Swedish devices, do not even have time to blink an eye as their knives become blunt. The smallest grains of sand and pebbles in the ice contribute to the formation of chips and gouges on the blade.

Sharpening devices is carried out in a variety of ways. Many of our ancestors did not even know what a professional is. In most cases, sharpening was carried out using hand-made devices.

Homemade ice drill machine: what is needed to make it?

For the manufacture of such a device as a knife sharpening machine, you will need two strips of steel, the thickness of which is 4 mm, the width is 60 mm, and the length is 200 mm. A spring from a car is often used as a strip. But she is very hard to bend.

Progress

First you need to make the body of the device. The steel strips are bent in such a way that the chamfers of the knives pressed against the ends of the arc are not only parallel, but also in the same plane.

After making the arc from the same steel strip, the pressure plate is bent, which serves as a lock for the sharpened knives.

Holes for M12 or M14 bolts are drilled in the body and pressure plate. Having pulled the body and the pressure plate together with a bolt and nut, we clamp the knives between them and check the strength of their fit to the surface of the end face of the emery circle.

If the knives are not located at the required angle (the chamfers do not fit exactly to the circle), then the device is modified by bending the body arc to the appropriate level. If the knives stand correctly, then the structure is disassembled, and stiffeners are welded to the arc of the body on both sides.

Sharpening of knives is carried out better on which rotates horizontally. In this case, when wetting the knives with water, the latter remains on the blade and stone longer, ensuring their safety. Dip your knives in the water more often. This will help prevent overheating of the steel.

Minus the device

The disadvantages of the device include the impossibility of sharpening knives with different angles of the cutting chamfer. But each manufacturer of ice drills offers its own models. In this case, a universal device will do.

Making a universal fixture for sharpening an ice drill

The universal design allows sharpening knives at any angle of the cutting edge. By smoothly changing the angle between the arms of the unit, on which the knives are fastened with screws, it is possible to fix the desired position of the knives in relation to the plane of the grindstone.

To manufacture this device, you need to find a door canopy with minimal play, as well as an M8 or M10 screw with its own nut. Holes are drilled in the shoulders of the canopy. Their diameter is 6-7 mm (for attaching knives to them with screws).

From a steel strip, the thickness of which is 3 mm, a fixing plate with a slot for the fixing screw is made. The plate and screw are welded to the shoulders of the canopy.

It happens that sharpening of knives is carried out, the location of the holes of which does not correspond to the holes in the canopy. In this case, additional holes are drilled in the shoulders for non-standard knives. In this case, the device has more versatility.

How are planer knives sharpened?

Devices such as planers and thicknessers can often be seen in country houses. By means of them, raw lumber is brought to the desired state. Knives of these devices, like any others, become dull. If you use them often, then the best way out is to sharpen the knives for the planer with your own hands. For the manufacture of grinding equipment at home, various materials will be required: metal, aluminum or wood.

The knife holder can be made from a wooden block. Having made cuts at 45 degrees with a circular saw, you can sharpen the knives with a belt grinder or with a large bar. If the latter is not present, then sandpaper is attached to a smooth surface made of metal, wood, chipboard or glass.

Knife holders can be made from improvised materials. The best solution would be to use metal corners that have an indicator of 90 degrees. When placing two knives on the sides, the sharpening angle of each will be equal to 45 degrees. Using screws, you can fix the knives with a second corner.

There are two main reasons why buying a factory sharpener is not an option. Firstly, the purchase of an inexpensive device made in China, in further operation, will not provide the product with the sharpness of the proper quality.

Branded copies can be a solution to this problem, but a significant drawback is the cost. There is no opportunity or just a desire to shell out a tidy sum for a device, then you can make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. There is no need to develop new designs, create your creation based on existing models. Do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, different types with detailed instructions.

We imitate a sharpener model from Lansky

This machine for sharpening knives is presented in the form of two metal corners connected to each other. The sharpening angle is determined by the hole into which the needle is inserted, at the end of which there is a nozzle.

Of the options considered, this one is the least user-friendly, but not easy to manufacture. Let's improve the device, try to make a device for sharpening knives with a wider range of degrees of pressure angle.

We take ordinary metal plates,

whose dimensions are 4x11 cm. Or more, all the same, during operation, the parts will be filed and adjusted to the desired parameters.

With the help of a grinder, sharp corners are removed at the ends of the parts (sides that act as clamps). Using a file, grind the edges of the clamps, you should get a smooth bevel from the middle of the base to the edges of the plates.

According to the drawing, we make markings for future holes. We drill them and cut the thread. We round off all sharp edges and corners on the plates with a file (not only for the sake of the nobility of appearance, but also for the sake of comfortable use, so that nothing crashes into your hands).

We purchase a standard aluminum corner, and make holes in it in accordance with the drawing above. In the holes intended for the entry of the stud, we cut the thread. And the hole that is intended to support the spokes must be expanded with a needle file.

Next, you need two cuts of a metal rod

about 15 cm long. We insert them into the extreme holes and fix the entry depth with two nuts of the appropriate diameter. In our case, these elements are equal to the size of M6. We screw a bolt (length about 14 cm) of size M8 into a hole of a larger diameter, on which a lamb nut is already screwed, and on top of it a pair of ordinary ones, but of a larger diameter than the bolt itself. It will be used as a support post for the structure. The remaining holes are for bolts, which will be used to adjust the clamping force of the blade.

Nuts are strung on the ends of the rods, then corners are put on, which are again pressed with nuts. By lowering them up or down, we can adjust the required sharpening angle.

The element that will hold the blade for sharpening is assembled from a thin metal rod (in the shape of the letter “G”), two holders (the last one with a through hole for the knitting needle), a wing nut and an M6 threaded rod.

We imitate a sharpener model from Spyderco

This knife sharpening machine is presented in the form of a plastic horizontal holder with several holes. And each nest has its own angle of inclination.

Of all the options that will be considered, this one has the lowest level of sharpening quality. The problem is that the blade will be pressed manually, unlike the first option, without additional fixation on the support. But, despite this, this device for sharpening knives is quite suitable for domestic use, and plus - it is very simple in terms of manufacturing.

In the process of work, we will need two wooden bars with dimensions of 6x4x30 cm, two bolts and wing nuts with dimensions M6 or M8, two thin knitting needles (curved in the shape of the letter “G”).

Of the tools you need a hacksaw blade, a chisel and a hammer, a file with sandpaper, a school protractor and a drill.

With a conventional conveyor

we apply markings with the required angle of inclination. We take the canvas and file the first mark on one of the parts. It is not necessary to go deeper than the width of the canvas itself.

We turn the hacksaw over and insert it with the blunt side into the sawn slot. We apply the second part from above and make sure that both the edges of the elements themselves and the markings on them match. Next, we saw through all the remaining lines in the same way.

We apply a chisel to the excess wood that needs to be removed. With a hammer, tap lightly on the top of the chisel and knock out small chips. When the bulk of the wood is removed, we bring the site to the required evenness with a file.

We drill holes for the entry of bolts and spokes as shown in the figure. Using fine grit sandpaper, smooth the edges of the holes, the corners of the parts and their entire surface.

We thread bolts into larger holes, then we string ordinary nuts and tighten them tighter. In smaller ones, locking needles pass (necessary so that the canvases do not move down during operation). We insert the canvases themselves into the grooves and press them against the second half of the product. We fix everything at the end with a pair of wing nuts.

We imitate a sharpener model from Apex

This machine for sharpening knives is presented in the form of a fairly massive device with a stand and a platform placed on it at an angle, a rod is mounted on the side, on which the end of the nozzle rests. This type of grinding device, despite its dimensions, in comparison with the previous ones, is the most successful.

It is easy to use and the quality of sharpening is high. In addition, making such a knife sharpener with your own hands is very simple.

To work, we need the following:

• (not a whole, even a quarter is enough);
• magnet (with slots for bolts, if it is not possible to drill them yourself);
• metal rod M6 or M8;
• small wooden block;
• a small piece of plexiglass;
• two bolts and three wing nuts;
• 10 self-tapping screws;
• 4 rubber feet;
• saw;
• drill;
• ceramic clips (or wood blanks).

First you need to cut three small blanks from a chipboard sheet. Dimensions of the first: 37x12 cm. Dimensions of the second: 30x8 cm, measuring 6 cm from the edge on the longer side, we drill a hole. Dimensions of the third: 7x8 cm. We saw off an element 8 cm long from the bar (section 4x2 cm).

We drill two through holes perpendicular to each other in the segment. The first at a distance of 3 cm from one edge, the second at the same distance from the other. Starting from the edge of the bar to the very hole, we cut out a bunch of wood 1 cm thick. At the cut of plexiglass, the following parameters are: 6x12 cm. A slot is drilled along the middle of the canvas.

We take the first largest blank

from chipboard and drill holes in the corners for the future legs of the product. At a distance of 4 cm from its edge, we put the smallest workpiece perpendicularly and connect them together using 2 self-tapping screws.

On the top of a small workpiece, we put the edge of a medium-sized part and again connect them with 2 self-tapping screws. The hole in the middle part should be closer to the top of the smaller one. The free edge of a medium-sized workpiece is rigidly attached to the site of a large part, again with the help of 2 self-tapping screws.

Using a drill, we drill a shallow depression on medium-sized parts. It should be located almost on the very edge of its highest point, and the dimensions correspond to the parameters of the magnet.

We mount the magnet inside (so that it does not rise above the level of the surface of the plank) and fix it with small self-tapping screws.

We put a piece of plexiglass on a medium-sized board, so that their hole and slot coincide with each other. We pass a bolt through them with a washer put on it and screw the nut from below.

A hole is drilled on the free edge of the largest chipboard part with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the iron rod. The rod itself is fixed with two nuts: a regular one and a lamb. So that they do not crash into the surface of the board, we separate them with washers.

A blank from a bar is wound onto a fixed rod.

A bolt is inserted into the hole to which the cut was made, screwed with a nut from the outside. Tightening the lamb, we fix the part at a certain height of the rod, release it - move up and down freely. The sharpening angle is regulated precisely with the help of this bar (raise or lower along the rod).

The element for clamping the grinding blade is assembled from a cut of a metal rod of two ceramic or wooden blanks and 4 nuts with washers. They are strung in the same order as in the photo. At the very end, rubber feet are screwed for greater stability of the product.

We looked at three different options for sharpening devices. And each of them has its pros and cons. You should choose a particular option based on your needs, as well as skills in a similar work plan.

Note information : , .

Often, ordinary abrasive bars are used to sharpen knives at home. But their use requires special practice, since with the wrong angle for sharpening, the result will be disastrous. The blade will not have the proper sharpness, which will require additional processing.

Rules for sharpening knives

Before you start making a homemade device for sharpening knives, you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations of experts. At the first stage, it is necessary to determine the angle between the working part of the blade and the bar. This can be done individually for each model.

The knife should be located strictly perpendicular to the direction of the bar. The angle in this case can be equal to half the sharpening. This is due to the fact that grooves are formed on the surface of the blade during processing. They appear due to the action of abrasive components. With the minimum graininess of the tools, they will be insignificant. But there will also be a small degree of impact on the knife.

In addition to this factor, when sharpening a knife with your own hands, you should consider:

• the average sharpening angle is 20-25 degrees;
• processing is performed from the beginning of the blade;
• to control the sharpening angle, you can paint over part of the blade with a marker. In this way, the actual area of ​​influence can be controlled.

It should be remembered that the deformation along the entire length of the working blade will be non-uniform. Therefore, when doing sharpening with your own hands, the “report point” should be the bluntest part of the knife.

The resulting grooves due to the impact of the bar must be strictly perpendicular to the line of the knife. This is the main condition for proper sharpening.

The choice of whetstones for sharpening knives

The main component of a homemade sharpening machine will be a bar. This is an abrasive material that, when exposed to the blade, thins it, increasing its sharpness. Therefore, before choosing a design, you should choose the right bars.

The main indicator of the bar is the grain size, but the dimensions should also be taken into account. Ideally, the length of the tool should be no less than the length of the knife. This will ensure uniform processing, reduce the likelihood of defects.

To sharpen knives with your own hands, you will need the following types of bars:

• high graininess. With their help, primary processing takes place, the shape of the blade is corrected;
• medium grit. They are designed to remove the grooves formed during the first operation;
• whetstone or leather belt rubbed with GOM paste. This stage is called polishing or finishing the blade.

The main task of drawing up a design diagram is the correct location of the bars. Therefore, we will consider several options for fixing them relative to the knife blade.

For sharpening ordinary kitchen knives, two types of whetstones will suffice - with high and medium grit. Additionally, they will need a donkey.

Simple version of the machine

The simplest version of the machine design is two pairs of wooden slats connected to each other with adjustable screws. A bar is attached between these components.

The main condition in the manufacture of this design is stability. During operation, it should not change its location on the desktop. For better fixation of the bar, it is recommended to provide support strips located between the wooden components.

Despite the ease of manufacture with your own hands, this machine has several disadvantages:

• the blade is set manually relative to the stone. During prolonged work, it is not always possible to control the sharpening angle;
• an additional fixing unit is required. Since the design must be stable, it is researched to fix it rigidly on the desktop;
• during operation, the screeds can loosen, thereby changing the location of the bar.

The main advantage of this scheme is the ease of fabrication. The design is suitable for sharpening kitchen knives at home. As additional components, you will need a touchstone.

The thickness of the wooden slats can be different. In fact, for the independent manufacture of such a design, you can use any materials at hand.

Manual sharpening machine with bar adjustment

To achieve the best result, it is recommended to take the drawings of factory tool models as a basis. Their difference from the instructions described above lies in the rigid fixation of the knife, but this will require great effort to manufacture.

The design consists of a support table on which the knife blade is attached. A screw rack is installed in a vertical position. A strap with a slot is attached to it. The sharpening stone is mounted on a guide rod. The sharpening angle is changed by moving the slotted bar along the screw post.

Features of the operation of a machine of this type:

• sharpening angle is set with high precision. Its change depends on the thread pitch of the rack;
• instead of a bar, you can use sandpaper. For this, the base is made of plexiglass. A hole is made along it for installation on a guide rod. Sandpaper is glued to the surface of the plexiglass;
• the support base is best made wide. This will make it possible to fix it with clamps on any countertop.

The main problem with this design is the long adjustment of the sharpening angle. This can affect the speed of work if several types of knives are being processed. Each of them requires a long setup of the machine.

To increase the quality, you can use water or oil. They are applied to the abrasive surface, thereby reducing the impact of the chipped particles of the bar on the blade.

Sharpening machine with knife position adjustment

An alternative manufacturing option for the machine is to change the position of the knife relative to the stone. In general, the design is in many ways similar to the one described above, but much easier to manufacture.

A movable fastening block for a pin with a stone is installed on the base. Two clamps are mounted on the same plane. One of them will be persistent, and the second - adjustable. By changing the distance between the clamps, you can adjust the angle of sharpening.

The main disadvantage of this design is the wear of the bar in one place. To solve this problem, it is recommended to make a long pin to adjust the position of the edge relative to the blade.

In addition to the above schemes, there are a lot of grinding machines that you can do yourself. When choosing the optimal model, one should proceed from the actual availability of improvised materials. It is also recommended to analyze factory machines. Often they are the basis for the manufacture of a unique design.