Sharpening knives El Rubankka do it yourself. Sharpening knives for handbanks. Creating a trolley body

Blade joiner's tool Designed for wood processing. It is a long time experiencing heavy loads than the blade of the usual knife.

Therefore, it is given the original form requiring sharpening special methods. Available for beginner High-quality cutting edge is created by a simple sharpening trolley.

In article based on personal experience Collected practical advice Home master How to make a simple fixture for sharpening a knife Rubanka or other tool with explanation of operations of operations with schemes, pictures and a video.

The entire process of creating a trolley took literally half an hour and passed in the kitchen. This technology is called: the assembly on the knee or stool. It does not require complex equipment, allows you to make a device from the most accessible details. At the same time, nothing prevents you for professional work Collect such a tool not wood, but metal using professional equipment.

Geometry blade Rubanka, chisels, chisels

The optimal cutting edge profile of the joinery tool has formed experienced way. It is slightly different from the usual cross section of the usual knife, blades.

Although the blade canvas also has a rectangular shape.

IN cross section The blades of the joinery tool creates a one-way profile.

It can be said that the plane of the descents is combined with the supply, and the cutting edge is finally communicated due to the formation of microdiodes during polishing on the grinding belt.

The sharpening angle may vary from 25 to 45 degrees. It depends on the density of the wood treated.

How to make fixture for sharpening

First you need to prepare all necessary equipment For the assembly, and then proceed to the installation.

Preparatory stage

I needed to find consumables And assemble not a complex tool.

Necessary materials

I made a sharpening trolley from wooden bar and two segments of laminate. Wheels served as a pair of the same bearings. Them inner diameter It turned out to be slightly less than the thickness of the chosen wood.

Fastening details chose two screws with second heads and a pair of six perianthime spills with a diameter of 4 mm with ready-made curly nuts. You can use thicker structures.

Instruments

The ordinary is needed to drive several holes. In addition to it, it will be necessary:

roulette, ruler or;
markup pencil;
a sharp knife for woodwork;
hacksaw;
chisel;
a hammer;
knife from the plane.

Manufacturing process

Creating a trolley body

On a piece of laminate, he conducted an axial line with a pencil. On it stated two points in the width of a little more than that of the knife Rubankka.

The drill drilled holes for the heels 4 mm. Then imposed this laminate to the second and, using the first element as a pattern, drilled it in the same way.

It turned out two blanks for fastening the knife Rubank with holes located a little more than its width.

Now we need to transfer this size on the body of the future sharpening trolley. For this, the booting hole and the same drill performed a peer hole, retreating from its edge to the distance, slightly greater width of the bearing wheel (photo 1).

Perform such work convenient. Since he was far from me, I had to take advantage of a simple drill.

Inserted the hairpin B. drilled hole And put on it a blank from laminate (photo 2).

It served as a markup to drill the second vertical opening (photo 3 and4). At the same time there were deficiencies of work without drilling machine: Deviation of drill with back side from the vertical line. The picture is not pleasant, but quite permissible.

So that the heads of the studs and nuts of the fastening hide in Bruke had to perform a shallow cencle to a thicker drill.

Then in the prepared holes inserted studs (photo 1) and screwed on them on the back side of the nut.

After the tight screwing of the spree head nuts (photo 2) and the nuts themselves (photo 3) hid the flush inside the wood.

At this bar, with the help of screws, the lower laminate plate was secured. She had to drill (photo 1, 2) and annoy (photo3.4) right on a wooden bar.

In the prepared holes, screwed the screwdriver flush with the top surface of the plate.

On this photo, another drilling defect is visible, allowed with careless zenkovka: a solid hole was formed to the right of the second screw. big diameter in laminate. Cause: Random pressure on the drill case when working. Therefore, I had to redo this operation. Consider my error and drill carefully.

An excessive part of the timber of Brousa simply cut off with a hacksaw.

The bearings remained on the prepared trolley body.

Mounting wheel

In Broza, the pencil stated the lines for installing bearings.

For the basic dimensions, the width of the laminate plate was adopted (photo 1) and the variant of the lower arrangement of the wheels (photo 2). To do this, used the segment of Bruck. Let me remind you that its thickness is slightly larger than the diameter of the inner coating of the bearing.

It remains a bit to work with hacksaw.

And also take advantage of the chisel with the hammer.

As a result, it turned out a blank of the hull to which the wheels remained.

To do this, he conducted a pencil axial line for bearings centers, and from the ends also made the appropriate markup.

With its help, the shape of the cylinder gave rectangular protractions.

Put the cuts of Raspil.

I installed bearings on them.

I smeared their plane of fastening for subsequent strength with glue and scored a hammer until a complete fit.

I installed the second locking plate from the laminate. Increased the planer of the planer and secured it at a certain angle to the surface of the base with fastening nuts. It turned out a homemade sharpening trolley.

How to put a knife ruble

The first attempt to edit the cutting edge showed the good performance of the created fixture for sharpening a joinery tool, but immediately indicated its disadvantages that were made in a hurry.

That complicates the work of the grind truck

On the height of the corps

To create a high-quality cutting edge, it is necessary to correctly set the sharpening angle. It is formed by the extension of the knife of the Rubank used as the hypothenus of the rectangular triangle.

This factor must be considered when creating the height of the trolley. To form the most sharp corners, it took me to maximize the knife from the sharpening device, and this is not very convenient.

Therefore, when adjusting, I reduced the height of the device to a minimum, cutting a part of the case. It took just a few minutes, and the possibilities and convenience of using the instrument expanded.

On the width of the distance between the wheels

Here, also a mistake was made. A wide trolley requires a large-sized grinder or emery paper Large square. It is not economical.

I, if possible, reduced the distance between the ball bearings, and they began to fit on the homemade, made me from ceramic tile. With it, it is convenient to adjust the cutting edge after it is edited on a coarse hide.

Made by me Case from Brousa It is more convenient to perform from three components:

the bottom, which is the axis of the fastening of the wheels and attached on the upper adapter;
medium rectangular;
top of the fixed fastener plate.

The bottom blank with bearings can already be done than the width of the plane canvas and secure individual screws to the middle, and the studs are located in the middle and upper parts. In this case cutting tool It will be more convenient.

Sharpening technology

There is nothing complicated in this matter if the Rubanka knife is correctly installed. Its underwater plane should accurately lie on the surface of the grinding stone at the moment when the trolley is in the working position. We must pay attention to:

density and uniformity of surface adjacent;
strictly perpendicular position of the cutting edge relative to the direction of movement of the grinding trolley;
no obstacles to the wheel path.

The sharpening itself is quick. My assistant is a schoolboy primary classes With great interest, I fulfilled this simple work, having introduced a prepared device for a smoothly unwinded strip of sandpaper.

It turned out a rather satisfactory result: a completely normal smooth cutting edge, but not to the end of the bevel plane at thenime.

I still have a little work to eliminate the specified defect. Then brought the cutting surface to a good condition on a homemade sharpening stone with small grain.

But even in such a state of the planer began to strict wood, creating a thin and uniform chips.

Finishing the presentation of the material I want to draw attention to the fact that the adaptations for sharpening knives The Rubbank, the chisels and other joinery tools have various designs. The simplest are created from the usual wooden bar in which it is done at an angle for attaching the cutting blade.

This bar is leading on a grinding stone. The sharpening is quite satisfactory, but there is additional friction of wood, which is also gradually stepping. And in the described design, rolling bearings remove this load.

Andrei Yarmolkevich tells about them in detail in his video "Sharpening a handbank".

Modern masters engaged in the processing of lumber must necessarily have electrical plans in their arsenal. It is distinguished by significant advantages over a hand tool. That the performance of the equipment was maximum required proper installation knives on electrulaws. Position sharp knife Increases the performance of the device.

Species of knives for electrical ruble

The tool has a rotating drum on which the cutting parts are fixed. The drum mount is carried out by conventional nuts. If they are weakened, it will be possible to remove knives. Since the blade has two sides of the sharpening, when the knife is blurt out one of the sides, you can quickly turn the knife.

The industry manufactures several blades for such a tool. They differ in their design and shape:

Straight. Planing blanks small sizes. You can choose a quarter.
Wavely. Perform the imitation of the "aged" tree.
Rounded. Apply to the processing of wide surfaces when it is necessary to make a neat curly transition between the plane planes.

Knives are distinguished not only by their shape. The most important role is also played by their size. There are several groups:

Plates - 82 × 5.5 × 1.2 mm. Used on Foreign Black & Deccer equipment. For the manufacture of blades use carbon steel.
Special knives. They differ from the plates with their dimensions. They are much thicker and wider. Available in length 82 or 102 mm. The big thickness makes it easy to sharpen the tool.
Blades for a specific apparatus. Typically, the blade width does not exceed 110 mm. To secure the blade, special holes are provided.

Disposable equipment

This tool is made of high strength alloy. The plate has two sharp sides. Her cutting part never sharpened. After wearing the edge, the blade is turned over, secured in the reverse side of the drum. When the second edge fits, the knife is thrown out and install a new tool.

Disposable equipment are performed by work that do not require high precisionWhen there are no higher requirements for the quality of the surface. However, it is very convenient to work with it. It does not require accurate adjustment of the electrouruk knives, it is not necessary to carry out balancing.

Reusable nozzle

This tool differs from disposable plates with their dimensions and shape. For the manufacture uses high quality steel. After surface treatment with such blades, it turns out smooth surfacenot requiring further grinding. The machine tool is marked with HSS letters (High Speed \u200b\u200bStil or Fast Steel). Equipment refers to professional type.

To install a knife, special adjustment is required, as well as high-precision balancing. The cutting angle of the knife of the Rubank must have accurate parameters.

Blade Elekrubokanka

After long-lasting work, the blades begin to wear out. They need to re-sharpe or hold full replacement. Adjustment and sharpening of the canvas is necessary when characteristic features arise:

There is a sharp sound.
The tool works with a large vibration.
Defects appear on the treated surface.
Work requires great effort.

To set up a normal position cutting cloth, It is necessary to take into account several parameters. Depends on them how high quality will be processing:

The height of the blade, protruding over the soles of the ruble.
The magnitude of the side protrusion of the canvas, which is chosen a quarter.

Adjusting tool knives

Wood processing master knows how to adjust knives on electrouruk . To perform such work it is necessary to have:

Hexagon included in the product kit.
Metal ruler.

To set up a tool with multiple knives quickly and correctly, it is necessary to observe a specific technological sequence:

If the knife has a straight form, the working part of the working part should reach 0.5 mm. For a rounded shape, this size must be more than 1 mm.

Independent sharpening blades Electrolack

Reusable knives after long-term work require releabers. Sharpening Rubanka with their own hands at home is performed similarly manual tool. The difference consists in the amount of cutting edges that require sharpening.

For self sharpening, the blade must have several special devices:

Grinding bar.
Emery.
File.

It will take clamp to work to secure the drawable item on the workbench. Knives are fixed so that the cutting edges are in the same plane.

All blades are sharpening a file or emery. There should be no deviations. The blade is checked on any wooden board.

To facilitate work, pre-wet water abrasive stone. For primary processing, they use coarse-grained abrasive, fine-grained finishes. It is desirable that the knife sharpening angle is equal to 30 degrees. When the cutting edge has severe damage, it is better to mold it on a special sharpening machine.

The planer is hardly the most popular tool in the Arsenal of a home master engaged in carpentry. That is why, you need to know everything about the replacement of the knives Rubanka proper sharpening and operation. And how to choose the right knives for the plane, both manual and electric, to provide them with maximum resistance - these issues will be discussed below.

Working conditions of a knife

All knives for manual Rubankov (electric there are some nuances, but about it later) work in conditions of significant loads on the blade, which is manifested in high stresses of the cut, which tests metal.

The dynamics of the work of the knife is the following. With a reciprocal movement of the tool, the knife is crashed into wood to a certain depth. Since the tree does not have any noticeable plasticity, it is cleaned with a certain layer with the formation of chips. The chips itself also rarely when it has a greater length, and quickly splits into smaller fragments. It happens at the time of "exconents" cut from the wood blank to the inclined edge of the blade. With a further movement, the planer arises a crack in the following layer, etc.

If you do not take into account the individual features of the material, the processing of which is produced, then the fracture of the knife for the plane is affected by the size of the passage - the limit length of the broken fragment of chips. With a decrease in the span and a decrease in planing depth, the surface of the workpiece becomes cleaner and smoothly, simultaneously decreases and cutting loads on the blade.

Since the chips during bending with the yield break breaks, the largest voltages are caused in the roof of the plane. Therefore, it is made of the most hard wood breeds. However, the durability of the pads is usually much higher than the resistance of the knife. This is explained:

A more favorable geometry of the block, where there are no voltage concentrators;
The situational desire of a carpenter (especially inexpressible) increase the depth of embelling, as a result of which the passage of the passage increases;
In high friction between the contact surfaces of the blade of a knife and chips, with the result that the temperature on the working edge of the knife increases.

These factors lead to the rapid blown of the blade. Therefore, important right choice The geometry of the knife for the plane, as well as the material from which the tool is manufactured.

Knife design

The knife of the handbank consists of a working and reference part. In the configuration of the working part, the knife is distinguished:

Fack, which is formed on the back of the blade. It provides a decrease in the injury of knife into the wood due to the exclusion of friction of the back of the material of the workpiece.
The front angle, which in most cases coincides with the tilt of the knife in the Rubanka housing.
Rear corner of the chamfer.
The working angle of acuction, which is equal to the difference in the values \u200b\u200bof the chamfer angle and the angle of the knife tilt in the plane.

For the durability of the tool under consideration, the greatest value has front corner: It is he who defines the smoothness of the scorched surface, the conditions for removing the shavings from the processing zone and the load on the blade.

When choosing the optimal value for this angle, the following factors are taken into account:

Physical and mechanical properties of the material being processed. In particular, with an increase in hardness angle should be increased. For handling soft wood (linden, ox, pine, larch), it is recommended to install a knife at an angle of 45 ± 5º, for work on a more hardwood tree (Grab, oak, pear) - 60 ± 5 °, and when processing even more solid materials - Even up to 80º. Such recommendations are associated with an abrasive effect, which makes the passage of chips when it is raised from the planing area;
Planing type. Almost every type of wood requires a certain angle of inclination of the plane to the plane of the workpiece processed. For example, pine is best placed when the tool is tilted at the sharpening angle of the knives of the handbank 40 ... 50 0 from the axis of the board. Less soft varieties are processed at a sharpening corners of 25 ... 30º. This technique provides best quality planing, but the knife is stronger at the same time, and, therefore, faster faster;
Material and hardness knife. Most of all the high-speed steel P12 or even P18 are suitable for these purposes (for this reason, some home masters for the manufacture of rubank knives use parts sawmills Friction saws that work in similar conditions). There will be less resistant knives for plants made from conventional tool type U7 or Ui8.

Sharpening knives for manual regracches

The working edge of the knife is a rib that still has a slight radius of rounding. Before sharpening, visually check the integrity of the edge: it should not be local metal tensions. If they are presented, knives for the plane will have to shorten.

To maximize the radius of rounding on the edge, sharpening is recommended to be carried out in two stages. Initially, the primary sharpening is produced: the fastened knife on the side of the chamfer is brought to the periphery of the grinding circle and grip strongly. The number of turns sharpened should not exceed 600 ... 700 min -1, otherwise the metal will be significant. It is important and not overdoing with the power of pressing, because on steel may appear sine-purple colors Walking is an unpleasant sign of metal leave. The hardness of the knife for the plane will decrease, and will have to be quite difficult heat treatment (annealing + quenching + vacation) restore strength characteristics material.

In the absence of sharpened, they are applied as follows. Sharpening a knife for the handbank is made by coarse grinding bar, which must be fixed on the work workbench (both hands should remain free). Sharpening performed with circular movements of the chamfer over the surface of the bar. In this case, it is advisable to periodically make a knife with water or soapy. This not only cleans the stuffed surface from the smallest metal particles of the knife, but also allows you to evenly cool the tool.

The appearance on the blades of a subtle burr along its entire length is a sign of the transition to the second stage of sharpening. Here the tool is sharpened using a more fine-grained bar, which will remove the burr. The generally accepted gradation of bars for their grain is as follows:

High grain (30 ... 180 μm): Bruks / sharpened from silicon carbide or corundum. Used to remove large defects on knives, changes in the chamfer and so on.
Average grain (7 ... 20 μm): Bruks / sharpened from an electrocorundum or chromium dioxide. Suitable for pre-sharpening.
Small grain (3 ... 5 microns). Materials are the same, the tool is used for the final sharpening knives.

After the end of the sharpening, the blade of the knife is carried out on a piece of solid rock tree, which finally removes the fragments of the burr.

Sharpening knives Elekrublalankov

The main features of the knives for drive type plants are their double-sided, as well as work exclusively along the fibers of wood. If the knives are made of instrumental steels, they succumb to sharpening, while carbide knives will have to be replaced. When the knife is blurtling one part, it is turned over to the opposite direction and continue to exploit.

There are the following executions of electrouruk knives:

Straight - they are used for work with narrow grooves products;
Rounded - suitable in planing wider surfaces;
Figure or wave-like, which are used to form textural surfaces on the product.

Knives are different and their dimensions, in particular, long. The import tool has a standard size of 82 mm, such knives in practice are referred to as "plates". However, some domestic manufacturers make knives compatible with foreign-made tools. Increased power (designed for work with more durable wood) completed thicker 110 mm wide knives. Feature of such knives - the presence of fasteners.

The longer the knife, the easier it is to sharpen it. As in the previous case, it is important to know the material from which the knife is made. The process of sharpening knives for electrurubanks is as follows.

First, determine the current state of the cutting edge. If a brilliant strip is clearly visible on the knife fak, then such a tool needs sharpening. It is carried out at a sharpening angle of 30 0 using a grinding wheel with a guide conductor, pre-moistened with water. Grinding can be performed by both reciprocating and circular movements of the knife. In the first version of the movement should be performed working surface blades. Cooling in the grinding process is required: Knives of electruruckics work with much more high speedsTherefore, it is extremely sensitive to a decrease in hardness. This is what happens if the grinding is on the usual air: the steel is released, and its hardness falls.

It should be noted that all models of electrurucks are completed special holders. Signing a knife in such a holder, you can relatively conveniently sharpen it on the usual grinding bar. In the process of sharpening, visually monitors the condition of the blade surface: the working edge must have surrounding.

After the end of the work surface grinding Circle Or Bruck should be carefully cleaned from fatty contaminants.

For those who do this for the first time, Sharpening Knife Rubank may seem somewhat complicated. More precisely, the sharpness is not very, but the maintaining the right angle and the geometry of the cutting edge. The edge should be perpendicular to the edge of the knife, and create a straight angle with it.

It is better to immediately estimate the degree of bunge of the knife and the correctness of the angle. If the angle has the right degree, and the blade is only slightly "closed", then it is better not to contact the electrical file. You can fix a little on Bruke. I disable only right corner (chamfer) and then after the pair-troika of the boards with hands on Broke.

The stone was trained, should be smooth, and his edge is the thicker much better. However, household sharpened usually have circles about 2-3 centimeters, which makes moving a knife from side to side to take throughout the plane. Sharpening must be equipped with a girlfriend. Not including sharpened to attach a fame knife to the edge of the stone. The stone should rotate on you, and the knife is against rotation. Change the corner and feel in what position the chamfer begins to press the sock (cutting edge) then the heel (it is the place where it goes into a flat canvas hardware)

Check the angle over the template. The sharpening angle can be different, from 25 to 45. It depends on the hardness and switches of the treated tree, from the corner of the knife of the knife of the Rubank regarding its sole. Average angle on the plane general Make about 35 degrees.

If the degrees of chamfer (supply) of your knife does not require adjustment, choose the position of the knife on the stone, when the sock and heel, rest on the stone, respectively, if the degree needs to be less, then we press the heel more, and if more is a sock. After catching the angle, turning sharpened, and begin to move the knife by stone. Make a few passes and see in what place takes more, in what less. Correct Press.

After the chamfer passed all, check the straight corner of the coal. If necessary, align the perpendicular, the overtakers "sweeping" the angle is stronger. During the sharpening process, constantly cool the knife.

The sharpening on the sharpened is over when the chamfer is uniformly removed throughout its plane, its angle corresponds, and a small burr appeared on the cutting edge.

This burr is better to clean on a small smooth grinding stone. Some rules on fine sandpaper, but I do not do this. The stacker is still not a stadium material, and when you sharpening about it, the cutting edge "falls" because the knife goes as if on the waves. Grindstone It has a permanent form, and it is much easier to drive out on it. After editing, the chamfer is desirable to grind.

Someone will say that the burr is not needed. Nothing like this! Yes, on a knife or on the ax, the burr on the cutting edge is even useful, because it improves the "chain" of the cutting edge and better cutting. However, there is a fundamental difference between the cutting methods between the knife and the conventional knife. Kitchen knife It is found along the render by reciprocating movements, the Roganka simply raises the layer of wood, and the burr on it is simply addicted, making a knife dumber.

Any house master Always contains a working tool. This applies to the knives of the rules of manual or electric. To learn how to accurately and carefully sharpen the knives of the Rubanka to everyone. What are the devices and machines for sharpening the tool, and how to learn how to use?

If the knives of the Rubanka fumbled

Workability of the plane depends largely on the sharpening knives. The knife or cutter is a metal blade located to the surface of the treatment at a certain angle.

The working position of the cutter is the advanced and adjustable part of the knife. The knife protrudes through the slot through which the spent chips come out. Fit knives The Rubbank is carried out using simple clamps. The equilibrium system of location of the main elements The Rubanka creates a fairly efficient node until the master feel that it is time to sharpen the knives for the plane. How to determine if the root of the Rubankka fastened or not?

Sophisticated diagnostics Furious knife Rubanka does not require. It is enough to consider the cutting edge (chamfer) to light. By turning the champper around the edge, you can detect a shiny threaded strip, which will signal that the edge stuck. This is explained simply: the cutting angle of the knife is 30 degrees. Professional carpenters sharpen a chamfer without measuring the angle, relying on their own intuition and achieving the necessary relationship between the width and thickness of the knife.

When sharpening knives, it is necessary to respect the balancing and geometry of the blades. If you can not boldly handle the knife sharpening manual wayThe help will come to the rescue and device for sharpening knives for the plane.

Learn more about the knives The Rubanka will help you video.

Learning to sharpen knives The Rubanka is easy. It is enough to study the design of fixtures, devices and machines for sharpening, and also be able to securely fasten the blade knives.

Fixtures for sharpening

The simplest and therefore affordable manual adaptation For sharpening knives, you can name the wooden paler, in the upper part of which the knife is fixed.

This device has two points of contact: At one point, it relies with the stuffed blade on the abrasive, and the second point at the corner of the bar. Primitive design and manual movement of the device, however, make it possible to produce a good sharpening of the knives. It should be borne in mind that the sharpening angle geometrically depends on the height of a wooden servo above the surface of the abrasive, as well as the distance to the place of attachment.
When sharpening the blade knives must be straightforward.

There are also the following fixtures used for sharpening:
Circle sharpening
Click for sharpening
Roller barreloid
Honing bar
Sharpeners with front and side clamp.
Circle sharpening It is an abrasive circle with a diameter of up to 60 mm from a thickness of a circle to 18 mm and a hex shank. For the convenience of sharpening the circle is equipped with a conical deepening located around the circumference. Circle sharpened made of silicon carbide. For sharpening, an electric drill is used as a driving element.

Click for sharpening designed for a reliable clamp of knives for the plane on the sharpening stop. Fit has 3 operating positions that allow you to install a rod that levels under the necessary work angle of sharpening. Sharpening angle can range from 30 to 90 degrees. The clamp is fastened on the screws located on plastic gaskets. Cress manufacturing material - anodized aluminum.

Roller barreloid It is intended to eliminate sharpening defects on a hurriced workpiece. The roller has a characteristic form that allows 3 tracks to eliminate "tracks", formed after sharpening with a sharpener. At the same time, an angle of 90 degrees between the side parts of the knife and the cutting edge is preserved.

Honing bar Designed for the function of the substrate under the abrasive paste. Comfortable geometric sizes and manufacturing material - low carbon stabilized steel provide flatness over the entire sharpening surface to 0.127 mm. Unlike water stones, the bar does not need the surface wiping when sharpening. It is possible to glue the bar to a significant surface area, which ensures the best comfort when working.

Sharpener Veritas Sharpening System With frontal and side clamp, it is designed for sharpening knives of Rubankov and Fugankov, exceptions make up the blades of knives from Japanese manufacturers. The sharpener is a cloth that can be clamped together with the blade of the knife of the frontal or side. The sharpener is equipped with a roller that prevents any damage to the sharpening stone. Sharpening blades of the knife is carried out due to the template of the exhibiting angle with the possibility of manual adjustment.

It should be noted that when working with fixtures for sharpening it is necessary to pay attention to the reliable attachment of the blades of knives.
How to learn to sharpen the ruins with the use of fixtures you will help you video.

But special interest when sharpening knives causes work on a grinding machine. You can learn how to work on a sharpening machine yourself, reading the instruction.

Tormek grinding machine

TORMEK machine is a low-speed grinding machine with powerful engine and considerable torque. The machine allows for sharpening work continuously for a long period of time. High frequency Sharpening provide low revs (up to 90 rpm) and water cooling of the cutting edge of the stuffed tool. The device and the principle of operation of the machine for sharpening knives for the plane is sufficiently simple. The tool is clogged into the holder.

The holder with fixed tool is fixed on a universal support. Then inclusion is made grinding machine. Sharpening knives or other tools occurs on small circles using a sharpening circle immersed in water. The sharpening process is visible, at any time it is possible to adjust and control the clamping force, the width of the champeckers and the speed of rotation of the sharpening circle. When sharpening the tool completely excluded the tool facing. The use of various sharpened stones allows you to sharpen any metal.

You can learn how to work on a sharpening machine in a few goals. Therefore, the sharpening knives will not represent difficulties. For greater confidence in the work and practice of sharpening knives, the Rubanka can be found in the video.

Recall that sharpening work always requires attention and compliance with safety regulations.