The dimensions of the traverse for hanging the car of the passenger car. The traverse is universal, self-made. Features of the removal of various designs of motors

Elementary motor maintenance is possible without dismantling it. Replacing the candles, the prevention of intake and final collectors, and even the replacement of the belt (circuit) timing is performed directly in the carpentry space of the car. However, work with valves, crankshaft, piston group, etc. is carried out only on the removal of the motor. Not to mention the procedure for overhaul.

From our article you will learn how to remove the engine from the car in the garage, than you can remove the engine with your own hands and how to do it right.

The material is prepared by the AUTO-Science.com website - whose specialists will help you with high quality and without mistakes to stream the mileage of your car.

How to pull the engine from the car in the garage without resorting to helping the car service?

In fact, this is not such a complicated procedure, as it may seem at first glance. The main task is to choose a device for removing the engine.

Important! The engine weighs several hundred kilograms. Its fall can not only cause material damage, but also lead to severe injury.

Before lifting the motor from the boost space, it is necessary to carry out the following procedures:

1. Drain all technical fluids: oil, liquid Gur, "TORROSUHU".
2. Release the cooling system from antifreeze.
3. Drop the gearbox (except in cases when you remove the motor without removing the box).
4. Disconnect all hoses and fuel, brake system pipes, as well as lubrication and cooling systems.
5. If possible, remove hinged equipment: air conditioning compressor, generator, etc.
6. Disconnect electrical cable loops, engine control unit, nozzle control cables, high-voltage ignition coil wires.
7. Remove connectors from all motor sensors. It is recommended to make a list ("based on" instructions for maintenance and repair), it will help not miss the hidden connector.
8. In most cases, it is required to remove the hood cover.

If you plan to pull out the motor without a box, you need to unscrew all tightening bolts and make sure that after removing the checkpoint does not fall under the car. That is, you need to take care of the temporary attachment of the node.

How to remove the engine from the car?

At home, there are usually no professional lifting equipment, so it will have to rent it either independently.

Goose to remove the engine with your own hands

This is a simple mechanism that resembles a goose neck. It gives the possibility of carrying a motor away from the workpiece. It may have a swivel design that allows you to get the engine without moving the machine.

Heavy DVS is simply transferred to the workbench located next to the car. In fact, this is a universal lifting crane in the garage. The stand is based on long "legs", located under the engine compartment, to prevent overturning. For lifting, the cable and winch is used.

Gusak is used both in garage conditions and in small services.

Engine removal lift with his own hands

As a rule, it is a batch crane, the lower part of which is started under the front bumper. A smooth platform is required, on uneven soil remove the engine with such a device problematic. The lift works with the help of hydraulics, or the tensioning mechanism like the winch. The device is the simplest: a rack with rolling supports, and a movable arrow, on which the motor is suspended. You can make the lift with your own hands from the chaserler, or a square prof. Pipes.

If there are solid wheels on the support legs, you can quickly roll out the lift with the engine and move it to the repair area.

Winch for removing the engine with their own hands

It is used if the car is repaired in a solid stone garage. The most affordable device that can be removed the engine. For pulling, a chain or cable is used.

There are two design options:

• Transmission mechanism with a drum that is suspended to the ceiling.
• The winch is fixed on the floor, the pulley is fixed under the ceiling.

Features of the removal of various designs of motors

Longitudinal location. As a rule, such DVS are removed without a gearbox, although exceptions are possible. Removing the radiator.

Cross location. Motors are compact, easily rising vertically. The gearbox remains on the engine.

Hybrid systems and electric cars. Internal combustion engines in such machines occupy little space, or absent at all. Electric motors can be built into the wheel drive, or integrated into the transmission. Due to the small size, their dismantling does not cause difficulties.

All types of DVS are installed on supports. In the framework structures of the attachment point are on the frame, in cars with the bearing body, there is usually a subframe.

It's hard to get here, it's not easy to reach there ... in some garages you can find winches, Tali is true, to work with them, as a rule, it is necessary to preliminarily remove the hip. But to replace the clutch on Samara or the "dozen", you will have to first disconnect the gearbox. How to do this, not spending extra forces and time and does not damage anything? Let's talk about the car with an eight-glove engine. The latter when removing the box remains only one support instead of three, and there must be a bit (millimeters by 50) omitted and in this position is fixed. Make it is easy that we will show. The remaining support is sufficiently elastic and moving the engine in the specified limits does not interfere. And the other point of support, temporary - create yourself.

In the factory list of a special tool and snap, used during the repair of the car, the so-called crossing is numerically for engines - its number 67.7820.9514. A serious disadvantage of brand technology is that the master when working needed an assistant. But what prevents us from refining it?

In order for the engine left on one left support, it took the right position, support it with a long stud with M10 thread and a lamb nut (in the photo - red). The effort is quite large, so the shoulders of the homemade lamb of 80 mm. The lower end of this stud bent the crochet - it is cling to the exhaust manifold in the fourth cylinder zone.

I draw your attention to the fact that this adaptation is suitable for work with both "Samara" and eight-shred "dozens". True, in the first case, the cross-like supports (in the photo - yellow) has trapezoids (in the photo - yellow), and in the second, the additional adapters (in the figure and photo 3 they are p-shaped). Material of those and other supports - not necessarily metal: textolite, viniplast, etc. will rise. In addition, for the "dozens" you need a longer stud (580 mm instead of 420 mm). On "Samara" is so inconvenient - she has too long a threaded part. After all, the hairpin has to be archured into the slot of the cross, and then throw the lambs for a long time, choosing a slack.

A small winch is fixed on the crossbar. Attachments, the attachment methods do not point out - most likely, your winch will have any differences. One thing is important to work correctly. In my version, the winch cable through the bracket is attached to the gearbox stud next to the oil-telny hole, the benefit of the nut there! In photo 2, you see that the cable, encroaching the winch roller and stretching, will move the box vertically, which, in fact, is required.

With front-wheel drive or subframe, came across a small problem. Such as engine hanging. Someone submits the jack under the pallet, someone puts scrap on the wings, winding him with a rare in order not to handle paint. I went to the store auto tool (grabbing a roulette with you). I looked, I felt merged the main dimensions of the traverse.

Chlipcats appeared legs. And so that this adaptation itself decided to make after the factory.

I drove into a construction store, bought three and a half meters of profile pipe 40x20mm and hardware. Everything else was home.

NECESSARY MATERIALS;
1) Profile pipe - 20x40mm - 3.7 meters.
2) Profile pipe - 30x15mm - 0.5 meters.
3) Profile pipe - 20x20mm - 0.08 meters.
4) Four five millionth plates - 40x60mm.
5) rod with a steel diameter of 10mm - 300mm.
6) rubber (felt) sheet (the thicker the better, but in reasonable
limits) 120x120mm.

Hardware;
1) Bolt M10 L-30mm - 2pcs.
2) Nut M10 - 2pcs.
3) M10 washer - 2pcs.
4) Bolt M8 - 4pcs.
5) the washer of Grovers f 8mm - 4pcs.
6) Nut M8 - 4pcs.
7) Bolt M12 L-70mm - 2 pcs.
8) Nut M12 - 2pcs.
9) The washer increased by an internal diameter of 12mm - 2pcs.
10) Stud M16 - 0.5 meters
11) Nut coupling M16 - 1pc.
12) The washer increased by an internal diameter of 16mm - 1pc.
13) Persistent Bearing (ISO 53203 Marking + U203, GOST 18203)

or radially resistant (ISO 7203 B marking, GOST 66203) - 1 pc.

TOOL;
1) welding semi-automatic magician.
2) corner grinding machine.
3) Drill.
4) dried with a diameter - 8, 10, 12, 16 millimeters.
5) Corollary cleaner.
6) Roulette.
7) Chattercourt.
8) tees.
9) clamps.
10) Flexible pliers.
11) Kerne.

Manufacture

Started drawing pictures

FRAME
Then he cleaned the entire necessary metal to the gloss (semiautomatic woman does not like dirty iron!). From the profile pipe of 20x40mm cut off with a grinder two parts after a half meters, two parts of 150 millimeters (the missing half-meter piece of the same pipe I had). Stopped, drilled, on the blanks of racks rounded the edges. From pipe 20x20mm cut two parts of 40mm.

Closing the long tube in the tees, stood on it to weld the amplifiers (in 500mm increments). With the help of the square, there were two segments (20x20mm) and fixed them with ticks.

Welded amplifiers.

Observing parallelism and aligning the beginning, fixed the second pipe on the first with the help of clamps. In the ends of the pipes, for the leveling of the gap, put the legs (highlighted in red). Welded amplifiers to the second pipe.

In the ends of the frame welded five million meter 40x60mm plates.

Rama is ready.
Legs
The remaining two plates put the center

And drilled

The coupling bolts (M12) screwed the coupling nuts, it was cut into the tees and the grinder cut off excess.

By inserting the bolts into the holes of the plates recorded the same nuts and welded to the plates.

Processed seams. The short part of the leg (15x30 mm) should be dressed on the seam.

After fitting, welded the plate to the hinge.

The base of the legs stated and drilled by the eight-monthly drill throat,

And he drilled on one side by a sixteen millionth drill.

After that, I cut it.
In my covers there was a rubber lining from some industrial equipment. Which I cut into four parts and screwed to the legs.

It turned out these legs.

They must be hinged, as the flapping of the wings of the car (drain, fastener bar) are not parallel to the ground and with a slope. The hook should be located perpendicular to the surface so that it does not encourage the engine weight.