This article discusses a few simple, but useful devices that the master did for their handmade disk saw. At the end of the publication for visibility of the videos of the author of the channel "Joiner's products with your own hands."

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Used BOCH GKS 165 CE saw. This is, first of all, a traditional regular parallel emphasis, which is included in almost any manual disk saw. The remaining devices are different guides. This is a fixture for perpendicular transverse cutting and ringing of blanks. This is a guide bus for sawing sheet material. Two bars - in work, probably, the most useful auxiliary devices-installation bars, allowing to accurately accommodate any guides, as a straight edge rack, painting rules, any straight pipe or profile, or the factory edge of any sheet material. And finally, the adjustable guide for sawing at a given angle.
All these devices made it with their own hands for a long time, when using a manual saw saw and electruruklanka compiled ase of carpentry and joinery during country construction. And so far they are faithfully serve.

Particularly useful for working with large-sized long material. That is, with long boards and sheets of large sizes that are inconvenient to handle on a circular machine or a permeaker saw. In the first part of the first three devices, as the most popular. The other two will be devoted to the other part.

So, the simplest and most common device of the manual saw saw is a regular stop designed for longitudinal cutting blanks to a given width. But this stop has one drawback - it is designed to ensure the safety so as not to interfere with the work of the protective casing of the saw. As a result, the emphasis does not allow to perform a smoking width of less than a given value. In different models of disk saws it is different. For a saw - it is 22 mm. That is, with the help of this stop, it will not be possible to drink a thickness of less than 22 mm thick. Somehow it took to quickly drink a large number of rails, a thickness of 10-15 mm for gaskets between the boards in the stack. From the tools in the presence of only disk saw. It turned out that it is impossible to do this with the help of a regular stop. Therefore, he took the first barbed bar with parallel edges and temporarily attacked him to the eagle. Since then, it has been emphasized!

With the help of the workpiece, you can cut the rails of any width, up to several millimeters. When working with such upgraded focus, especially when sawing less than 15 millimeters, increased security measures should be observed. With a small width of the sawing, the protective cover is resting in the bar and does not close the rotating disk. Therefore, when handling a saw, not to get injured, you need to be extremely careful and attentive.
Use the device is simple: install the stop on the desired width of the cut, fasten the workpiece, tightly press the bar to the edge of the board and lead the saw along the workpiece. Since such an emphasis can be installed almost close to the disk, replacing the pad to a longer, about 40-50 cm, then the saw can be used as an improvised fugank for rapidly align the edge of the edge board. The result is quite acceptable!

The following device is a guide for performing perpendicular, transverse cuts.

It consists of actually guide rail and perpendicular to it. The cut line is determined by the edge. The author of the idea already enjoys about 4-5 years, so the edge is very developed, will soon have to do a new one. The device is made under a specific saw disk, the parameters of your disk wrote for memory. On the other hand, a guide for a manual milling is made with a cutter of 12 mm, but it uses extremely rarely.
This device was done to perform a specific work, namely, for the manufacture of carved columns for the terrace of his home. It was necessary to make many shallow perpendicular propilov on each side of the bar.
Next, from 5 minutes. And the continuation of the second part.

How to make a homemade table for circular do it yourself according to the drawings

Manual circular saw is a powerful tool with high performance. One of the main advantages of the circular is maneuverability becomes a disadvantage when it is necessary to cut the large volumes of wood. To simplify the process, you can easily assemble the table for circular saw with your own hands.

Design table.

small desktop stand for circular

The design of the table for manual circular saw is so simple that most masters make it without preliminary drawings and schemes. This is a strong workbench, which is made from wood and plywood. The most reliable bases for the table are made of metal. They are the hardest and require the presence of the skills of the welder. Therefore, more often the stand is performed from sawnwashers. Circular saw is attached under the tabletop, the disk performs over it through a specially done slot. The sawn timber is promoted on the tabletop and saw the rotating disk. For the convenience and accuracy of work, the table is equipped with additional devices: angular and longitudinal focus.

The tabletop "eats" part of the working surface of the disk, the depth of the cut will decrease on the thickness of the table top. Therefore, it is desirable to pick a circular with the maximum disk diameter, and the table top is thin but tough.

If the saw is not yet purchased, select models with high power (from 1200 W). They will cope with the sawing of large volumes of wood. Holes will be drilled for fastening in the sole: the cast base can crack. Therefore, it is desirable to choose a tool with a stamped sole.

Selection of materials

mounting circular saw under the tabletop

To make a good stand for manual circular saw, you should remember the joinery skills, stock patience and a small amount of materials:

• laminated plywood 15 - 20 mm;
• bar 50 x 50;
• board;
• switch;
• external socket;
• the segment of the electrocable;
• pVA glue;
• wooden varnish (if the plywood is not laminated);
• saws.

The size of the countertops will depend on the workshop area. At the same time, on a too small table will be inconvenient to cut down long segments. If the part fit the whole on the working surface, the cut is performed evenly and carefully. The height of the legs are selected depending on the growth of the wizard.

For a small workshop, a desktop design is convenient with approximate dimensions of 50 x 50 x 25 cm.

Table manufacturing process

1. From the leaf of laminated plywood, we cut the tabletop of the required size. Marking is applied to the bottom plane using a metal line and pencil. We are reproduced by the Faner by the Electrolovka, the edges, if necessary, the freserving. If the plywood is not laminated, the surface of the table is cleaned with a skin.
2. We turn over and from the bottom we make marking for the attachment of the manual circular. To do this, remove the disk from the tool and set it the sole to the required place. We make markers on the table top and on the sole of fasteners and the groove for the saw disk. Drill the bolts holes. They will be tightened from above, through the worktop and from the bottom to be kept nuts. Therefore, from the side of the working surface of the hole with zenkuum, and the bolt's hats are minimized so that they do not protrude.
3. If a cutting material is planned at different angles, the slot to the sawing circle is performed in the form of an inverted trapezium. An ordinary groove is performed for smooth sawing. Before cut down the slot and holes for fasteners, attach a saw, adjust the marks and only then cut out.
4. Apply the stiffener rib location with a pencil. They are made from the board and install at the bottom of 8 - 9 cm from the edge of the table top. We will mount the legs of the table to ribs. The ribs are fixed with self-pressing with gaps of 15 - 25 centimeters, PVA is additionally sampled. Self-tapping screws overhead, through the worktop, the heads completely interpret. The ribs are bonded with long self-draws.
5. The feet of the table are made from the bar or board, their length will be from 100 to 113 cm. Large stability will give legs, a little divergent book. They are fixed on large bolts swirling outside, from the inside are fixed with nuts. Screeds from the bar additionally strengthened the framework.
6. To adjust the height of the table, the nuts are attached from below, which screw the M14 bolts.
7. Now you can re-fix the saw, skipping the disk into the prepared slot.
8. We attach an electrical outlet on the inside of the table, we skip the electrical wire from it and install the switch in a convenient place (on the outer part of the rigidity edge). Power to the outlet will be fed from the switch. From it stretch the wire to the nearest power supply in the workshop. With the help of a construction screed, you fix the button on-off on the circular saw housing in a recessed position.

We will proceed to the manufacture of auxiliary stops. For the longitudinal stop, you will need an aluminum pipe of the square section No. 30 and two screws with lamb nuts.

1. We cut down a piece of pipe along the length of the table top, 3 cm from the edge cut the holes under the screws.
2. From pieces of plywood drink two clamps. Design ready.
3. For sawing across the table, we make sleds from plywood. They align them relative to the edges of the table, pressed and promote along the gear circle. In the place of passage of the circle in sleds we supply the groove. Small details can be stacked right inside the sled and pan.

The dust removal is organized from under the table, but most of the dust is scattered from above, so it is not bad to add the device to the top dust.

Work on circular saw is very dangerous, so it is necessary to take care of the protection of the fingers. From a piece of blackboard or furniture shield, cut the pusher.

Supplements to construction

This design can be supplemented with a proplining knife that will be removed. To put on the protection for the disk, which cuts off the flow of chips flying directly to the joiner.

Some masters, collecting a table on unique drawings, completely remove the factory protective cover, and the factory platform is replaced by self-made. If it is not planned to saw at an angle, you can remove all devices to adjust the slope of the disc. The saw is fixed directly on the new foundation, which allows you to win several millimeters of the depth of the cut.

Without inner casing, it is easier to remove the disk, the saw is not so much clogged with chips when working with raw boards. Disassembly requires an extra time, but the engine resource is saved, overload is warned.

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Fixtures for manual disk saws do it yourself.

These simple and very useful devices for manual disk saw -

• parallel emphasis
• device for perpendicular transverse cutting and coaling of boards,
• guide tire for sawing sheet material,
• installation bars for accurate placement of any guide and adjustable sawing guide at an angle

With the help of these devices, your manual disk saw can be successfully replaced by not only a circular machine and a tracing saw, but also a fuganok, and will turn a very convenient and accurate tool.

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These simple and very useful devices for manual disk saw -

• parallel emphasis
• device for perpendicular transverse cutting and coaling of boards,
• guide tire for sawing sheet material,
• installation bars for accurate placement of any guide and adjustable sawing guide at an angle

With the help of these devices, your manual disk saw can be successfully replaced by not only a circular machine and a tracing saw, but also a fuganok, and will turn a very convenient and accurate tool.

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The manual circular saw in the standard version is extremely difficult to make an accurate transverse cutting board. Get the perfect cut in accordance with the markup allows the simple homemade device, easily made from cropping in your home workshop.

The cutting device is designed for perpendicular to cut the boards width from 100 to 250 mm in a step of 50 mm, but its dimensions can be easily changed for its needs.

How does a device for manual saw

The device under consideration is extremely simple and consists of only several parts: the base for a saw, rail guide, a stubborn bar and an eccentric clamping providing reliable fixation even on a lumber, leaving with small disabilities in width.

Having used homemade very easy. First, markup is made on the board.

Then the homemade device is installed on top, the lower stop of which is pressed to the edge of the workpiece, and the right edge is aligned by the label.

Now it remains to put a circular saw on the base and make a cut, pressing the edge of the sole to the heading unit.

The result will be perfectly smooth cut, exactly repeating markup.

With this device, it is convenient to make multiple transverse cuts when you need a frequent movement of the tool to a new line of cutting, for example, when selecting grooves in the bars. It will come in handy and, if necessary, reducing the length of the workpiece into several millimeters, and can cope with this task no worse than the permeagant saw.

How to make a device with your own hands

The cutting device is manufactured for a specific model of the power tool. Measure on your circular saw the distance from the engine to the bottom plane of the sole and take 5 mm. The result obtained is the height of the guide stop.

Prepare according to the size of plywood base with straight corners and wooden rails with parallel edges.

Measure the distance from the cutting disk to the edge of the sole.

Add a battery of 6-10 mm and install at this distance from the right end of plywood guide rail. Secure the bar with shuruses with countersunk hats, controlling it strictly perpendicular.

Screw the reverse side of the stubborn bar and fix the device on the workbench.

Will the Phaneur with a circular saw before the final width, creating a reference end to accurately position the markup device.

Draw on paper Eccentric clamp cam template.

Follow the part on a 10-mm plywood and designate the bolt hole drilling center.

Drink the workpiece with an electroll bitch.

Make from the same plywood washer with a diameter of 50 mm using a sliding drill on the "Ballerinka" tree.

Collect the blanks and pick up a furniture bolt M6 or M8 with a mustache (or with a square headrest), a wraul nut, washer and a sleeve. The latter can be made from the tube of a suitable diameter. The sleeve length is the total thickness of the base, lever and plywood washers.

Make a drill on the diameter of the sleeve sleeve, which serve to rearrange the eccentric clamping, respectively, the width of the colorboard boards.

Collect the eccentric mechanism: insert a bolt with a sleeve with a bolt from above, and then put the wooden washer, the cam itself and the steel washer. Turn the piece of nut.

Start from the inside of the stop strip of sandpaper to prevent slipping at the time of strooping the eccentric, which can occur in the case of fixing the adaptation to a smoothly ached billet.

The presser system of this device has a move that secured on the boards with a width of about 10 mm. If you need to cut out or tighten the workpiece of another size, simply place a wooden lining before a stubborn bar.

If desired, the potential of the considered device can be expanded by adding an angle of the cutting of 45 °. To do this, it will be necessary to slightly increase the dimensions of the reference platform and set the second stubborn bar under this angle.

Emphasis for longitudinal sawing.

Ideally aligning the saw relative to one of the edges of the table attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

To install on the table in general, any circular is suitable, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws for the base - then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. Call may crack.

There is another popular way to mount the circular to the table, not drilling holes at a base - attach it with the help of clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only me this method seemed not fairly correct in terms of accuracy and reliability of the installation and I did not apply it.

Another important parameter of the hand circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner - small wood dust rises into the air.

The disk was powered on the top side of the table top. Height - 40mm (BOSH 160mm Wood Disk). The countertop reduces the depth of cut into 9 mm. The depth of the cut is exhibited on the circular. It is convenient that the disc can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: Important! On a number of budget circulars can be so that the disk is under an invisible slope. And all the rods will be crowned. Be sure to check the tool as the disk to be under 90 degrees relative to the surface of the table. (It is possible to check the saw to check the angle relative to the native site. If the disk was not at a right angle and there is no possibility to set the perfect area angle - you can put on one side under the site a few strips of tin, seeking an ideal angle (you can puck under the screws that fastened the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

Inside the table posted a sink for a saw that will now turn on the start button.

This is how the vacuum cleaner can be connected to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can cut. (Made in one evening and one morning).

To cut without a snap, of course you can, applying rails and clamps, but uncomfortable.

This design, clinging to the edges of the table and leveling relative to them, can move along the saw disk. By pressing the rails of the rail, you can easily steal it exactly under 90 o. Thin wood can be put inside the sled.

You can even cut the rail as the sausage :) for example, chopped several pieces of different thickness.

Salazks solve only part of the tasks. For longitudinal sawing, you need a side stop.

From plywood glued the brackets that will cling to the edge of the table.

He joins in the edge by a dead grip.

Circular saw - a dangerous tool. In order not to sprink your fingers, I made a simple pusher from the feet of the furniture shield.

I have already managed to work with this table, sawed and rails, furniture shield, Faneur. All these works have become much easier than I made it screaming with a manual circular saw.

In the future, I still refine this table:
- remission side focus for longitudinal sawing, so that, moving, he always remained a parallel disk
- put a removable split knife to which the disk protection will be attached
- I will make a dust from the top of the table. (Now, when I drink, the disc throws me wood dust right in the face)
- Finishing an improved pusher. Already started to make a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about it in the future.

I will gradually implement it in the future, but for now I will work like this.

1. Zero clearance

If the circular saw disk leaves on the edges of the cutting fibers and chips, try to make next complement. Cut a piece of solid organity
6 mm thick in the width of the base of the circular saw.
Take the disk, lift the protective casing and double-sided scotch tape stick the cut piece to the base. Turn on the saw and slowly immerse the disk into solid organic to obtain propyl with a zero gap. Then saw with a small feed on the result obtained.

Note: Be especially careful, as the saw disk is open!

2. Install the saw on line for accurate saw

Spend a few minutes on production of this template In the workshop, and the necessary accuracy of cuts will be affordable anywhere. The device shown in the figure was designed for a 150 mm wide boards, but it is easy to adjust the design for any desired size or angle.

Make a fixer with a small allowance, then press the circular saw to the slope and scold the edge edge to the final length.
The disconnected edge of the device determines the line by which a circular saw I must do it.
Put the label on the board in the place where it is required to sprinkle, press the bottom stop to the edge of the board and align the edge of the base with the label of the propyl. Cutting a saw through the device, you can cut the boards with Stunning accuracy.

3. Search a simple guide

How to make straight cutting with a portable circular saw? Of course, you can buy an expensive guide in the store or make it yourself in the workshop if you want to cut a lot of sheets. But there is a simpler decision: make it from trimming, which are lying in the corner of the workshop.
Choose for the manufacture of a guide factory edge of a plywood or solid fiberboard width 250-300 mm. Secure the strip along the cut line so that base saw Moved along the smooth edge. If a substrate from foam is used to protect the saw disk, make cut ships under the lips of the clamp.

4. Homemade cutting device for circular saw

Clean and smooth transverse cuts It is difficult to make a portable circular saw. It is almost impossible to keep the instrument perfectly straight, and the segments of the material usually fly away, leaving behind unsightly chips and split edges.
I suggest make yourself cheap fixture For transverse cuts from several pieces of wood and aluminum corner. Collect the base, for what to the upper side of a piece of chickens or plywood with a size of 18 × 300 × 1220 mm, stick and attract a pair of parallel planks with dimensions of 25 × 50 mm.
Surumbas with a secret head attach to the plars in parallel at a distance equal to the width of the base of the circular saw, aluminum corners at an angle of 90 °. Adjust the saw so that it cuts the planks and did shallow propyl Based on.
Fixture secure clamps on the workbench, insert the workpiece under aluminum guides And do the cut. If the saws badly slides on the guides, then the thin layer of paraffin or silicone Spray. It will help to move it more smoothly.

5. Template for installing guide

When need to make long cuts portable circular sawYou have to spend a lot of time and produce a variety of measurements to install a direct guide relative to the markup line in exact accordance with the width of the saw base.
To simplify this procedure drink the template From the fiberboard (organice), equal to the width of the distance from the edge of the base of the saw to the inner edge of the saw disk. Then cut the template along the base of the saw. To use the template, align its edge with a label, cut off on the workpiece, and to the other side, cut a direct guide and secure its clamp.
Repeat this procedure on the second label of the cut from the other edge of the saw blasting. Similar templates can be done for electrolovka or mill.