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Chains saws - chains used in chain saws. Sharpening chains for longitudinal chain sawing for longitudinal sawmill

The first manual chainsaws appeared in the 1920s. They were installed chains with straight and flat teeth - such a chain system was not distinguished high efficiency And there was a very laborious in service. In 1947, Joseph Coke offered a new type of chain. Its form was M-figurative, due to which it was possible to increase the productivity of chainsaw repeatedly, and ensured simplicity of sharpening. As a result, the coke chain quickly displaced all its competitors from the market. Currently, most chainsaws are supplied with such chain systems - they have a characteristic self-like cutting profile and allow you to efficiently work with any type of wood.

Saw chain design

The concept proposed by Joseph Coks was so successful that there were practically no constructive changes. By and large improvements, only the instrument lubrication systems were touched upon, as well as the fight against inverse outlets and vibrations.

Any saw chain consists of three types of links.:

  1. Cutting

This is the most complex piece of chain headset. Its design includes the depth of the depth and the cutting element with a contour cutting angle.

  1. Leading

Such links are also called shanks. Through the lead asterisk, they transmit rotation from the engine saw to the chain, providing its stable position on the tire.

  1. Connectors

Designed to connect cutting and leading elements.

The main in the chain system are. They are left-hand and right, and their cutting faces are for the tire plane, which provides free cutting with minimal cutting resistance. Chain teeth (cutters) work on the planer principle - the further the upper cutting edge will be pulled, the larger it will be cut.

Cutters of the saw chain differ in two main types:

  1. Chizel (Englishchisel - Chisel, Cutter)

They have high performance and provide good sawing. The configuration of such cutters provides a smaller area of \u200b\u200bcontact with wood when cutting, due to which the resistance of the latter is reduced. The disadvantages of the chain teeth of the chisel type are high sensitivity to the abrasive medium, as well as the complexity and complexity of the sharpening process.

  1. Chipper (English. Schipper - chop in chip)

The chipper cutters is less effective due to the increased area of \u200b\u200bcontact during the pickle. On the other hand, chippers are very convenient in service, since the rounded corner of the cutter is not so painfully reacting with errors when draining.

Chains with chipper units are preferably used when cutting contaminated wood.

Main settings

Saw chains accepted to distinguish:

  • the direction of cut (longitudinal and transverse);
  • dimensions (length and size of the chain headset elements);
  • constructive features;
  • the order of the cutting links.

Cutting wood along the fibers causes greater resistance than across. In view of the demand of both types of sawing, two types of saws are produced - longitudinal and transverse. They differ in the angle of attack of the cutters. As a result, the productivity of the saw increases with the longitudinal pickle, and the "aggressiveness" of the tool is smoothed. Well, along with the latter reduces the level of vibrations and reduces the load on the engine.

With low quality requirements, the longitudinal cut can be performed with a transverse chain motorcase.

Presented today on the market, have different dimensions. One of the main parameters of the saw chain is the number of links, i.e. Chain length. In addition, chain systems have a specific step. It is measured by the distance between the three consecutively connected links divided into two.

Classification of saw chains in step

Depending on the step of step, the saw chains differ in 5 classes:

  1. 0,25 (1/4)’’

Small pitch have chains installed on one-handled motorcases. This tool does not differ in power, but it allows you to perform accurate work, t.ch. In hard-to-reach places.

  1. 0,325 '' and 3/8 ''

Chains with such values \u200b\u200bof the step received the widest application. Over 80% of the world-produced tool are supplied with such chain headsets.

  1. 0.404 '' and 3/4 ''

Large chain headsets are installed on large saws with increased productivity - roller systems, harvester equipment, etc.

Obviously, the larger the size of the chain links, the greater the performance it possesses. At the same time, it should be remembered that the cut will be wider, and therefore, to overcome wood resistance, the cutting will need a big saw.

Classification of the thickness of the shank

The thickness of the leading links is the second value of the chain parameter. It must coincide with the size of the tire groove, according to which the latter slides during operation. Due to this, the reliability of landing increases and the risk of its scope is excluded during the work. The course of the chain at the same time is performed smoothly, without unnecessary jerks and vibrations.

World manufacturers of saw chains produce headset 5 main sizes:

  • 1.1 mm (miniature chains for mini-saw);
  • 1.3 mm (most in demand, because installed on);
  • 1.5 mm (installed on high power and performance saws);
  • 1.6 and 2 mm (chains with thick shanks are installed on professional and industrial saws).

Profile Height, Cutting Depth and Saw Engine Volume

Depending on the height of the cutting edge, located above the plane of the guide tire, the saw chains differ on high and low-profile. The first provide maximum performance, while the second have an increased area of \u200b\u200bthe cutting link support, as a result of which they give a thin chips and are more secure in operation.

The depth of cutting is called the size of the gap between the upper edge of the cutter and the propyl limiter, which regulates the chip thickness. The most claimed sawing headsets with gaps of 0.025 '' and 0.03 '', while the chains with the value of this parameter to 0.07 '' are used as part of the machine rolls of the forest. It is the cutting depth that determines the performance of the chain headset. However, the greater it will be, the stronger the saw will vibrate when working. In order to balance performance indicators and vibrations on the chain with a big pitch, manufacturers install cutting teeth with minimal depth and vice versa.

The volume of the saw of the saw is directly related to. If the latter is installed on too powerful tool, It will be susceptible to high loads and fails much earlier than the laid time. Therefore, when buying a chain headset, it is necessary to carefully examine the technical characteristics of the saw itself.

The order of the cutting links

The list of main parameters of the saw chains is also the order of the cutting links. In the standard design, each of the cutters falls along the pair of shanks. In the chain, with the semi-emission, each third cutter is replaced by the leading link, and in the headsets with a complete pass - every second. The second and third type circuits are not produced - they are made by a handicraft method from the factory products.

Headsets with a pass and semi-pouche cost significantly cheaper than standard, but inferior to them in performance, reliability and convenience in work.

Silent lubrication system

The reliability and effectiveness of the latter directly depends on quality. In order to ensure normal operation of the instrument, manufacturers are supplied with an oil pump that supplies oil to the cutting system through special holes. The chain itself is responsible for the even distribution of oil - its shanks, passing through the asterisk, capture the lubricant, which, as a result of the movement of the headset, spread over it and the saw tire. Often, special channels are performed to increase the efficiency of lubrication in the leading links using a cutter or drill, and in the connecting - additional recesses.

The lubrication system Motorciles work to reduce the destructive effect of friction and, of course, heating. This significantly increases the service life of both the chain headset and the tool as a whole. Therefore, the user must control the lubrication process. If during the acceleration of the chain on the cut line, there is no oil trail, this means that the saw overheats, and the chain itself can quickly fool enough, or even burst.

In order to increase the lubricating effect, global manufacturers produce oils for saws on an organic basis. They are somewhat more expensive, but they provide less consumption in a quarter, and when highlighting environment self-discharge for several hours.

Modern chainsaws can be installed chains and tires with different parameters. However, before buying a new headset for a specific model, you should make sure that its lubrication system can cope with its functions when working.

Vibration and return when cutting

Neither the first nor the second when working with the chainsaw cannot be avoided, however, you can reduce their intensity. Arises due to the collision of the cutters with the wood. At the time of contact of the cutting edge with a tree, it turns out to be sandwiched between it and the tire. Part of the impact energy through the headset, the leading asterisk and the saw housing is transmitted to the user's hands.

To reduce the impact effect due to vibrations when sawing wood used:

  • the bevel stop limiter (ensures the soft movement of the chain due to smooth scaling of wood from the cutter);
  • depreciation protrusions on shanks and connectors (contribute to the repayment of vibration when it is transmitted to an asterisk);
  • the beveled either the overestimated heel of the cutter (provides a seed chain at the moment of impact, which contributes not only to the vibration gash, but also to reduce the wear of the chain headset and the saw tire).

Thanks to the use of these structural elements in the chain, the risk of injuries is significantly reduced when the saw is scribing due to the contact of the tire sock with a solid surface.

Silent Circuit Service: Highlights

Pile headset, tire and leading asterisk are consumables. Therefore, the most important questions when buying a tool and headsets concern reliability and durability. In many respects, they depend on the type and intensity of the work that the user will perform. An equally important role is played:

  • grease headset;
  • running and tinting the chain;
  • sharpening of the cutters;
  • tool care.

Running in the chain headset is performed by soaking it for some time in oil with a subsequent short-term run on idling and tension adjustment. If the chain is tensioned not enough, it will constantly scrape, while the hauling leads to an increase in the load on the chain and its premature wear.

Due to the intense cutters of the saw chain shut down. In order for each time it did not have to buy a new headset, the user can sharpen the cutting elements on its own. At the same time, it is necessary to clearly observe the correspondence of the acute angles of the cutter and the height of the limiter by the factory parameters. In addition, you need to trace all the cutting links of the chain have been sharpened equally. Otherwise, the productivity of the tool will be reduced or the vibration and load on the saw engine will increase.

Another one an important point When working with a chainsaw is to monitor the integrity of the chain. In the event of the slightest cracks, rubbing or damage should be replaced. In complete, we note that only competent selection, as well as timely and correct care The instrument and headset can provide normal performance, durability, reliability and, of course, safety chainsaws.

Service chainsaws, video

In the process of working with chainsaw from any, even quality toolsThe chain over time loses its original sharpness and needs sharpening. For what features you can understand that the chain of electric saw or chainsaws fucked and the time came to sharpen it?

Below are the main signs that it is time to fulfill the chain sharpening:

  • during operation, the saw loses stability, breaks away from the hands and strongly vibrates;
  • chainsaw or electric saw gives a chips of only small sizes, and does not produce large chips;
  • the saw part burns in the material, the sawing cannot be performed high quality and quickly;
  • the deepening chainsaws in the wood does not occur in itself, in order to perform a longitudinal cut, the tool has to "draw" with their hands into the material, applying efforts and pressing the canvas;
  • during the sawing, a curve is formed;
  • chainsaw is quick and strongly heated;
  • wear chain is much faster;
  • increases fuel consumption.

If you celebrated on your home tool Several signs described, it means that it's time to set the chain.

The original chain chainsaws can be sharpened several times, it will save all the work properties - the severity of the cut, the quality of the cut, the speed of rotation over the tire.

Some important tipsthat will help longer not to sharpen chain on benzopile:

  • do not use a new chain with an old asterisk and vice versa;
  • if during the operation of the chainsaws, you already drove two chains, replace the star of the new;
  • the chain should be running before full-fledged operation of chainsaws with a normal load (the runoff is made immediately before the sawing, 1 minute on small revolutions, and then 1 minute on medium revolutions);
  • after cooling the new chain, the chainsaw should check the degree of its tension;
  • always use chain lubricant for chainsaws, high-quality oil;
  • keep a normal tensioned position of the links, because during operation, petrolons are often tilted in different directions, which increases the probability of slipping chains from the tire;
  • control the position and focus of the depth limiter, after the 3rd or 4th sharpening, check the parameters of the limiter.

Characteristics of teeth chains

The chain teeth have several important parameters. These parameters include:

  • the cutting unit device (consists of a base that is fixed to the chain, the blade of the teeth with two cutting edges, the depth limiter, which controls how deep the blade is crashed into a tree, the end and upper blade), the cutting action does not perform the chain itself, and the links, that is , teeth. They move on the chains, as on the base, on wood, and the link cuts the tree;
  • the angle of the end blade, which allows the chain to cut the tree (precisely because of this angle when sawing wood chips is formed).

To carry out the correct sharpening chain owner you need to know:

  • type of metal chain (soft, solid, medium);
  • chain step;
  • the distance of the depth limiter.

From these two parameters depends on how to swing the chain correctly. The softer the metal chains on the chainsaw, the more accurate you need to handle the file with manual sharpening. Upper region The stitching process should be located at an angle of 90 ° in a vertical plane and 30 ° or 10 ° - in horizontal.

Video about the sharpening corner of the chain chainsaw

In this video, it is shown how to cool the chain of chainsaws, the main parameters of the saw chains are indicated.

The next video from the owner of the chainsaw on how to sharpen chain chainsaws with their own hands

Front corners of U. different types chains may have a value from 60 to 85 °. The more degree of the rear angle of the top blade of the chain, the greater it will be tilted back, on average, the value of such an angle is from 50 ° to 60 °. An indicator (degree) of the rear angle of the top blade (degree) of the rear angle of the upper blade, and the top blade itself is very important for high-quality sawmills.

The basic condition when draining chains of chainsaws or electric copies: cutting performance is directly proportional to the angle of sharpening, that is, the higher, the better benzaw will cut the material. Than less corner sharpening, especially smooth tool, and the less vibration will be during operation.

Avoid sharpening angle in the range more than 35 ° and less than 25 °. In the chains for longitudinal sawmills, an exception is allowed for an angle of sharpening, in these circuits, the sharpening angle can be 10 °.

Sets of necessary tools, templates and fixtures for sharpening chains

The most popular chain sharpening tools:

  • round file;
  • flat file;
  • holder;
  • template for depth limiter;
  • hook for removing sawdust.

Files for sharpening the machine for sharpening chainsaw chainsaw
Sharpening Corner Control Template

The dimensions of the chainsaws for sharpening chainsaws are different, but in ordinary life for household needs and home Application To drain the chains in a step ¼, 0.325 ", 3/8" and 0.404 "are recommended files with 4.0 diameters; 4.8; 5.2 and 5.5 mm. For some chains, cylindrical appliances with a diameter of 3.2 mm are used. For hand sharpening do it yourself the ideal option There will be a flash with a length of 200 mm with a diameter of up to 5 mm.

Some manufacturers implement these tools with sharpening sets, you can also purchase them separately. Round file - one of the most popular tools, with which many owners draw the chain no worse than on the machines. Each set is designed for a specific chain step and its size. To pick up a set for sharpening chains, you need to know the two of these parameters.

Stihl Fire Holder

Markings are drawn onto the holder - they help the owner of the chainsaws to determine proper position Corner for sharpening chains. The power holder is installed simultaneously on the upper part of the limiter and the tooth, and the round file is placed near it near the blade. The holder holds a file in the desired height, it should be towering over the blade on the standards.

To mold chain chainsaws at home, the tire is fixed with vice or clamp. It is important to maintain the intensity of the tool during sharpening. The holder put on the markup, and then move the file on the chain from itself 2-3 times. Each cloth is treated equally. From time to time, the file unfold with the other side so that it does not raise it unevenly.

For convenience, the teeth are evenly sharpened on the one hand, after which they turn the saw and align them on the other side.

Sharpening starts from the smallest to the size of the teeth, since the length of the remaining teeth should coincide with it. When the blades are sharpened, processed limiters. The chain put a pattern from the set so that the stopper falls into the hole, all protruding edges are staged by a flat file from a sharpening set.

Other chain sharpening devices, sharpening tools and appliances:

  • roller sharpening device;
  • files of various firms (round, flat);
  • holds with a file;
  • pens and guides for files;
  • plastic cases, tool storage containers;
  • the feet is a small file, the device of the oblong shape with a diamond notch, most often the appliances are used to set very small parts, are often sold by sets.

Popular models inexpensive sharpening machines

Popular manufacturers of low-cost chain sharpening machines: DNIPRO, EINHELL, SADKO, VITALS, Forte, Intertool, Eltos, Zenit, Grand, Stern, pace.

Among the variety of models, every owner of chainsaws or electric copies can choose the tool that suits him. Below is a rating of the best inexpensive chain sharpening machines, these machines received lots of feedback from the owners. How much will it cost this device? The cost of machines from this category is small to medium. In this price range, a variety of models are represented, which perfectly copble with the drainage chains for electrical and gasoline saws.

We offer you a short rating of grinding machines chainsaw from a category Cheap:

  1. Professional machine for sharpening chains SCHEPPACH WOODSTER CS 03, manufacturer of Germany, 220 volts, power 180 W, maximum diameter grinding Circle 100 mm, the thickness of the circle is 3.2 mm, landing 10 mm disk, machine weight 3 kg, warranty 1 year, price 1125 UAH.
  2. Household machine for sharpening Dnipro-M NSM-550 (electrical unit of budget type), manufacturer Ukraine, power 550 W, 508 mm grinding diameter, 3.2 mm thickness, seating circle size 23 mm, weight 2 kg, 3 year warranty, Price 740 UAH
  3. Professional machine for sharpening Vitals Professional ZKA8511S, manufacturer Latvia, power 85 W, grinding diameter 104 mm, thickness of a circle of 3.2 mm, landing size of the grinding 22.2 mm, weight 2.6 kg, 1,5 year warranty, price 1093 UAH .
  4. The machine for dragging chainsaw Oregon 106550, the power of the device 85 W, the manufacturer of the USA, the diameter of the grinding disk 105 mm, the seat of the disk is 22.3 mm, the thickness of the disk is 3-4.5 mm, the weight of 2 kg, the price of the device is 7 100 UAH. The most expensive of these devices, received many good reviews, popular in Russia and Ukraine model.

Sharpening power tool Scheppach

All described models are suitable for chains on electric copies and chainsaws. To accommodate the machine, a small workplace is required: a steady table and a power source for connecting the device to the network.

Machine for sharpening chains of chainsaw Oregon - video with an overview of the device. Oregon device is suitable for sharpening of the circuits of type 91vx; 91VPX in increments of.325 "and 3/8"; Lpx in step.325 "and 3/8"; BPX with 3/8 ", LGX.

Video about the Machine Dnipro-M NSM-550

Types of sharpening chainsaw chains and proper work with them

Hand sharpening with a file at home

Hand sharpening is considered the most economical, budget, this will require only a file that is in every house at the host, if it is not - it is inexpensive and sold on any construction market or in the building of construction goods and tools. For the size of the chain of 1.3 mm, a file with a diameter of 4 mm will be required, for the size of the chain of 1.6 mm - a file with a diameter of 5.2 mm is needed.

For teeth limiters, a flat file can be used. A sharpening template is fastened to the discharged element.

Stages of manual sharpening chains of chainsaws at home:

  • secure the chain (tire) so that it is fully fixed;
  • do not change the sharpening angle throughout the drainage;
  • perform a 2-3 movement forward with a light click;
  • turn the file with different sides;
  • perform sharpening in the size of the smallest teeth.

How to sharpe chain chainsaw with your own hands - about this video below:

Professional sharpening on the machine

Sharpening on the machine can be performed manual machine or professional machine.

Professional machines work from the network. The principle of sharpening is almost the same as when manual drainage:

  • chain chainsaws are fixed in guides;
  • next adjust the width of the groove and choose angle;
  • lower the sharpening disk;
  • the chain is moving along the holder, clamp, processed each tooth.

A sharpening element in professional machines is a sandpaper. A good automatic machine is expensive, because professional sharpening equipment is mainly located in services and workshops. Buy such for home use Not rational.

Video about how to sharpen chain chainsaws on the machine

Sharpening with a grinding machine or a grinder

Chain sharpening process chainsaw grinding machine Or the grinder is made using a special nozzle, the same grinding, which is used as a nozzle in professional machines. Of all the ways of turning, the smaller way is the easiest, however, requiring some skills.

For sharpening you will need a Bulgarian and a metal disk with a thickness of 2.5 mm. You need to sharpen the chain on minimal revs, alternately treating each cloth on the chain. When using the Bulgarian, wear a protective plastic mask or glasses, as well as gloves.

Video about how to sharpen chain chainsaw with a grinder

Sharpening as a business service - what is needed for this

To provide mass services for sharpening, that is, business creation in this direction requires a lot of equipment and conditions. The following are the main materials, techniques and consumables, which will be required to create a mini workshop:

  • room, heated, with electricity supply, place for machine, chair, racks (minimum area of \u200b\u200b2 square meters, voltage in 220 volts);
  • machines with washers for different disks (electric);
  • sharpened discs, including diamond;
  • grinding circle;
  • fastenings for such tools like skates, scissors, chainsaws;
  • pillars - a shoe for manual sharpening;
  • hammers;
  • small tools (hacksaws, screwdrivers, keys, etc.);
  • vice;
  • oil for spindle;
  • lamps;
  • punch;
  • storage boxes, baskets, furniture.

Andrei, Melitopol:

"I noticed that various angles of sharpening are indicated on the boxes from under the chains, they differ for different chains. The factory angle, for example, more than 25 degrees, write all that is not less than 35, and in order to dust well, I put an angle of 40 or 45 degrees. Some machines do not move the chain back and forth, so next to the factory sharpening do not stand at all! The thickness of the sharpening circle is also individually selected, and you constantly need to control the shape of its edge. "

Valentine, Dnipro:

"My opinion as a master that the stroke is the best in the world. Machines are, of course, well, but still listen to the advice of the expert, we have been working with chains for ten years, no less. The machine will give you only 30 degrees horizontally and 45 degrees vertically sharpening, and a file to 10 degrees horizontally. The vertical of the file in the degrees is the same, but the shape of the cutting edge does not change, and the working blade becomes wider. No other nozzle will give this! Second: The machine always gives overheating, which is bad for steel, and there is no file. Third: a file spares teeth, if used, the chain will last about six sharpeners, two longer than after the machine.

The main minus of work is to work properly, you need to train! Practice and only practice. "

Video sharpening chains for chainsaw

The use of chainsaw allows you to change the size and shape of wood and other materials. The cutting element of chainsaw is a chain that moves at high speed during operation. The chains are the blades, the geometry of which causes a quick cutting. Over time, the chain is blinking, and the teeth must be sharpened. Sharpening chains - a procedure that can be performed by itself, as it is not more difficult than the sharpening of a different cutting tool. The only conditions for sharpening can be called the use of a special design. This is due to the fact that the created tooth has an unusual geometry: consists of two cutting edges, an angle is created with the help of a side and upper plane. The special complexity of sharpening is that the upper surface has an angle relative to the movement line of the chain, which should be withstanding with great accuracy.

When do you need to work?

With intensive use, chainsaw sharpening is carried out quite often, often several times in one day. Special attention should be paid to the fact that the meeting of the soil chains significantly speeds up the process. Therefore, chainsaws need to be used to eliminate the likelihood of contacting the chain and soil. After several contacts, the chips will be very small, and the chain will deepen in the material slightly. When considering such a question, it can be noted: the more often the chain of chainsaws, the smaller layer of metal is removed. Also, if you often sharpen, the life of the cutting element of the chainsaws will significantly increase. The main condition can be called proper execution Work, if you do it with your own hands. It is possible to correctly perform the procedure only if there is a special machine. A sign that the cutting element of manual chainsaws was stuck to call a significant feed force. Correctly conducted chain sharpening determines a significant decrease in the filing force indicator, that is, chainsaws are easily included with a slight press. Another sign of the need for sharpening chains can be called obtaining very small chips.

Cold chainsaws when the signs appeared necessarily. The chain sharpening is carried out in order to reduce the voltage in the body, reduce the cyclic load rate, fuel consumption. Also, if you do not sharpen the teeth of the chains on time, there is a possibility of increasing the wear of all nodes, as a result, there is a reduction in the service life of manual chainsaws.

Features of geometry

In order to correctly sharpen with your own hands, even if the machine is used, you should know the geometry of the tooth. To his compound elements Refers:

  1. Shovel.
  2. Basic link.
  3. Depth limiter.

At the same time, the tooth blade consists of the following elements:

  1. Facial blade.
  2. Top blade.

It is necessary to sharpen with your own hands with the fact that the end and upper blade should be located correctly relative to each other to ensure the best cutting indicators. The back of the tooth forms a certain angle of the upper blade. A similar angle is formed to embed blades into the material. It should also be sharpening with your own hands given the fact that the shovel has a narrowing - this constructive feature Forms an angle of the end blade. It is created to provide lateral cutting of chips.


Tooth chain chainsaw

Slip surface and ending part of the blade forms front corner. In this case, the angle has a fixed value, it varies from 60 to 85 degrees. If you get the teeth with your own hands to take into account that it is the top blade that is the main thing, and the angle formed by them is the most important corner.

Summing up when considering the question of the features of the geometry, we note that the sharpening angle may vary depending on the conditions of application. To the main rule that should be observed if you want to take the tooth with your own hands, the following can be attributed: the higher the angle indicator, the greater the productivity of chainsaws, but the decrease in the indicator provides a greater smoothness of the blades, a decrease in vibration and an increase in service life. It is worth sharpe with the fact that the indicator must be from 25 to 35 degrees. An exception can be called an embodiment of the blade, which is intended for longitudinal cutting - 10 degrees withstand many manufacturers of the cutting element of chainsaws.

File

The file can be used to conduct the work under consideration. The file is removed from the surface of the metal from the surface. For this case, a special set was created:

  1. Round file having a unusual type power.
  2. Flat file required to regulate depth limiting.
  3. Hook.
  4. Special template.

The round file is created with the marking lines that are used to correctly position the tool. The plate itself during operation comes into contact with the depth limiter and the surface of the blades, and the file walks and removes the metal layer. The use of a special handset with a file allows you to ensure the correct adjacent to the tools to the surface being processed. It is worth using only that file that is intended to perform such work.


Tilt angles when sharpening a file

The rules of work can be attributed:

  1. Make the same number of movements.
  2. It is necessary to control the force of pressure on the surface during its processing.
  3. The template that is used with the file allows you to observe important sharpening indicators.

With a different length, it is observed non-uniformity of the stroke and the formation of cracks in the material. If the length of the length is unequal at the time of treatment, all cutting teeth are aligned in terms of the smallest of them.

Application of special machines

You can not always use hand tool With template. For example, if the cutting edge, during operation, in touch with the soil, is the likelihood of its deformation. This situation uses a special machine. The machine is two species:

  1. Mechanical.
  2. Electric.

The mechanical machine has a design that looks like a bitten saw, but with a round file. You can use the machine to align the length of the length of all edges, to restore the correct geometry. The machine in question has a complex system for setting processing parameters. The sharpening is performed about 2-3 movements, after which the machine is installed on a new place.

Electric machine is easy to use. A special settings system allows you to correctly position the treated surface, as well as bring the disc with high accuracy. Some models have automatic system Clipping of vice at the time of lowering the disk. The cost of an electrical version of the performance is slightly higher, but the performance is significantly increased, you can achieve the most accurate result.

StiHL sawing chain sharpening guide in PDF format

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Sharpen chainsaw - machine for sharpening chains with their own hands


Chainsaw is a cutting tool, so sooner or later it will fill. The more active it is exploited, the earlier this moment comes. And when this happened, the problem arises, how to sharpen chain chainsaws? If it is possible - you can attribute it to the service, there you will very quickly restore its performance. If you know how to sharpen a chain of chainsaws with your own hands, then do it better with grinding machine, on the extreme case with a file or grinding. It is important that you want to know how to sharpen the chain chainsaws correctly: the choice of sharpening angles, what files and tools to use and when you can be molded, and when it is better to attribute to repair.

How to determine what is needed sharpening chainsaw chains?

Sharpening chains for chainsaws are made only when the teeth fastened. This is evidenced by the following factors:

  • Feel performance fell, the process itself takes longer than usual;
  • So that the chain is drawn into the cut, it is necessary to make an effort more than usual;
  • Sawdust becomes smaller and sharper, their color changes to the darker, unlike light sawdust from the ending saw.
  • When working there is a strong vibration and a drink is hard to keep in hand;
  • Increased gasoline consumption.

If you do not figure the chain chainsaws, and to work the blotted web, it will lead to the fact that the tool will quickly fail. The asterisk and the drive will account for an enlarged load, the fuel consumption will increase, and the chain will quickly fail or break.

In the event that when you work, you see that your chainsaw does not work as needed, urgently need sharpening chainsaws. There are no specific terms and periods for this, as it depends on the frequency of use, loads and a number of other factors. For example, professional loggers working with such equipment daily apply the chain sharpening machines 2-4 times per shift, sometimes even more to maintain a circuit of a workable. The whole secret is that if the chain of chainsaws, when she just started to fill up - in this case, sharpening procedure is very simple and fast, while the chain service life itself is significantly extended.

Teeth device

Before considering how to accurate chain chainsaws, it is necessary to understand its design and principle of operation.

Immediately the chain itself does not cut the tree - it serves as the basis for special cutting links, moving them at high speed on the wood, while the link with the help of their blades is already cutting a tree. The link itself includes the following elements:

  • The base that is attached to the chain.
  • Tooth blade with two cutting edges
  • The depth organic controlling the depth of the blade. From the distance between the limiter and the upper blade directly depends on the efficiency of chainsaw.
  • Facial blade
  • Top blade.

Since the blades are located at certain angles, before the chain of chainsaws must be known how to establish these angles. Otherwise, the effect of sharpening will be minimal, and you often make it even worse.

What angles to put on the machine for sharpening chainsaws?

Chainsaw chain sharpening angle is not a constant for some particular model or manufacturer. It depends on which wood to work with. You can use the averaged values, but what a chain sharpening angle you install, will directly affect the efficiency of the cut. Therefore, the correct sharpening chain chains for one or another wood is needed.

Solid wood (or that for a long time It was influenced negative temperature) It has a higher resistivity, so it is necessary to reduce the angle. Then to decrease the vibration during operation, and the side of the web will be softer. The minimum indicator is 25 °.

If working with soft treeYou can increase the chainsaw chain sharpening angles, but maximum up to 35 °. This will increase the productivity of chainsaws without negative consequences.

The chain chain sharpening angle for longitudinal sawing is installed within 10 °. This will reduce to a minimum vibration of the canvas when picking and ensure the maximum slice.

Methods of sharpening chainsaws

Among the professionals do not arise disputes, the better to sharpen the chain chainsaw. Here the answer is unequivocal - it is better to use a special automatic machine that provides maximum accuracy and sharpening efficiency.

But in the question, how to mold chain chainsaws at home, opinions disagree.

There are three main ways to sharpen chain chainsaws with their own hands:

  • With the help of files;
  • Grinding;
  • On a homemade machine.

Sharpen chain chainsaw on the machine

If you have a professional machine for sharpening chainsaws, it does not arise difficulties here. To date, many different models are offered on the market, on which the chainsaws are sharpened clearly, quickly and with the right corners. You just need to connect it to the power grid, set the chain sharpening angle of chainsaws on the machine and that's it. It is worth such electrostanks relatively inexpensive - from 2 to 4000 rubles.

Budget option - a manual machine for sharpening chainsaw chains. His main difference from the electrostank is low cost, but efforts will have to attach more, since the chains of chains for chainsaws are much longer.

In the event that you do not want to do everything manually, but do not know where you can sharpen chains of chainsaws, contact the manufacturer's brand service - the approximate cost of such a service does not exceed 200-300 rubles.

How to make a machine for sharpening chainsaws with your own hands?

What if there is no possibility to purchase a special machine, and the sharpening chain on a chainsaw is required regularly? You can try and make a machine for sharpening chainsaws with your own hands. Is it worth the heater of the selection - to solve the owner already. As mentioned above, the cost of factory equipment - within 2000 rubles. If you decide to independently make a chainsaw chain sharpening machine, then you need the following:

  1. Make a desktop desktop metal sheet. It must be firmly attached on the body to eliminate vibrations.
  2. Stanna with screws system that allows you to set an angle of sharpening chains for chainsaw. It must have a graded scale and the possibility of moving horizontally - this will allow you to adjust the angle of inclination of the engine.
  3. High-breasted electric motor (you can any machine, drill or grinder).
  4. Device for pulling and fixing the chain.

A homemade machine for sharpening chainsaws is not inferior to the factory samples, but it is more complicated than it seems. Therefore, it is much easier to buy a portable fixture for sharpening chainsaw chains that can be used at any time (if there is a socket).

Using a stagnation chain folding file

In the absence of a machine or in the forest, the chain chain chains is made with their own hand with a file. To be accurate, you need a set for sharpening chainsaw chains. It consists of two files (flat and round), as well as a special template. When choosing a grinding tool, a diamond chain chainsaw is recommended, capable of carrying hard metal. During operation, the tool must be definitely smooth, clear and in the direction of "from ourselves."

  • Round file is intended to twist the cutting tooth. In the vertical plane, the round file for sharpening is strictly perpendicular to the tire, and in the horizontal - approximately at an angle of about 30 degrees. At how the angle to sharpen the chain chainsaws, you choose, based on your needs and density of wood, but within 25 ... 35 degrees., As mentioned above. Do not forget that the teeth have a multidirectional sharpening and alternate through one.
  • The flat file is intended to sharpen the depth limiter.
  • Template for sharpening chainsaw chains - very useful, you can even say the necessary device. According to the design, this is a limiter, which does not allow the chain sharpening tool to work incorrectly. With it, you can control the depth of operation of the round file, as well as correctly negotiate the limiter. To do this, there are two slots on the template: Soft / S (soft wood) and hard / h (solid wood). The pattern is imposed on the chain and restrictly steps to the template level. The drainage of the limiter without a template may lead to the fact that it will be a drink too low or the opposite is not enough.
  • If there is no template, you can make a special sharpened chain a chainsaw, which is a holding with a fixed in it at a certain height. This option is worse than the template, but still better than the sharpening without any limiters.

How does the grinding chain chainsaw?

The sharpening chain chainsaw with a grinder is used in extreme cases, because This method is quite laborious and difficult to control the depth of sharpening and the constant angle, since the grinder cannot be fixed in the template.

It is necessary to firmly fasten the tire with a strained chain in vice so that it is fixed for any action. The circle for sharpening chainsaws in no case should be new - the new circle is too straight edges and this will lead to the appearance of propuls on the metal. Be sure to pay attention to this and apply only the already used disk for sharpening chainsaw chains, the edges of which are more rounded.

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sadovij-pomoshnik.ru.

How to put the chain chainsaw with your own hands?

Hello everyone! In this article, I will tell you how to mold chain chainsaws at home.

To do this, use a special chain chain sharpening tool - a round file of a suitable diameter or an electric machine.

Sharpening with a file more correctly called editing. Fire chain accurate using or without rigid fixation templates. In the case of rigid fixation, if the circuit does not pass by chance, for example, on nails, you can do without sharpening on electric machine. When using files without tight fixation after 8-10 edits, a chain on an electric machine should be sharpened, as it takes a gradual knocking of cut angles even if the edit is carried out by a person with the hardest hand.

It is not recommended to sharpen the chain on the electric machine at once, as soon as it is slightly fastened, it is not recommended, since with such a sharpening "eaten" quite large part of the cutting tooth - the chain in this case will serve much less than it could. Sharpening on the machine also need to be carried out if the chain passed, for example, according to the same nails. In this case, the file will be right enough to fix the tooth.

120 varieties of chainsaw at very competitive prices. Click to see

How to sharpen chain chainsaws with a file

In order to sharpen a chain on a chainsaw with a file, you will need, actually, the round file itself the desired diameter, template for proper definition The angle of sharpening, as well as a template and a flat file to heat the depth of sawing (guide tooth).

Sharpening Set: Round Flame with Template, Flat Food, Template for Steeling Depth Limiter

1. Without removing the chain from chainsaws, we apply a round file to the cutting tooth, observing the desired sharpening angle, and spend 2-3 times in the direction of "from yourself". If you press a file to the teeth when it moves in the direction "To myself", it is spawn and stops sharpened. Therefore, in order to correctly sharpen, press it only when "from ourselves" movement.

Sharpening with a stiff file without tight fixation

The correctness of the angle when sharpening using an uncomply template, we look at the risk applied to it - it should be parallel to the tire of chainsaws. The sharpening angle should be 30, degrees for cross-saw, and at 10 degrees for longitudinal. It is more convenient to first sharpen all the teeth of the chain, looking in one direction, and then go through the teeth looking in the opposite direction.

When using a rigidly fixed guide template, it is fixed on the chainsaw bus and does not give a file to go to the side - the quality of edits in this case, as was said at the beginning, does not suffer from hand shake. Next, the desired angle and other actions occur also, as with an uncomplicable template.

Sharpening chain with hard lock

It is worth noting that there are such fixtures for editing with a file, when using which the chain will need to be removed from chainsaws.

Edit chain with a reference with chainsaws

2. Needle take a template and a flat file for the stratification of the guide tooth. To do this, the specified pattern put on top of the cutting tooth so that the guide tooth performs the slot on the template. Flat stepping part of the guide tooth sticking outside the template. This is done to comply with the required difference in height between the cutting and guide tooth of 0.65 mm. Usually such a procedure should be carried out after already 4-6 edits, since the cutting tooth is not very steady to the file for one or three edits to decrease in height.

Stooling the cutting depth limiter (guide tooth)

Food diameters for chains with a certain step:

3/8 "P - 4 mm

0.325 "- 4.8 mm

3/8 "- 5.2 mm

0.404 "- 5.5 mm

Sharpen chain chainsaw on the machine

When the sharpening chain for chainsaws is carried out by an electric machine, it is removed from the chainsaw itself. Next, everything will depend on the type of machine. There are such varieties that do not require the participation of a person in the process of sharpening, but such devices are too expensive. Typically, the process is as follows.

Sharpening chains on an electric machine

The chain is installed in the existing slot on the window of the machine to the guide tooth towards the operator. Next, the bed turns at that angle, which need to be sharpened - for this, risks should be applied. Special focus, which is applied to the back of the cutting tooth, the tooth itself is customized under the working disk so that when it is omitted, "eaten" as small as possible from the tooth, but at the same time, so that its sharpening has been made completely, without leaving the pits and depressions.

Sharpening chains on an electric machine in the process

It is advisable to find the most "eaten" tooth on the chains, put the stop under it, and sharpen all the other teeth on this setting. However, few people are bothering with this. Usually they align the first tooth and accurate on it all the rest. And if the tooth falls, to which this setting does not provide full sharpening, then align on it, and further the exact remaining links over the new setting. But, repeat, correctly set up the machine precisely on the very small tooth on the chains of chainsaws.

You should also configure the maximum depth to which the work disk will be descended. This is done using a regulator, which is usually located on the back of the machine.

Preact the teeth, taking each under the work disk, do not forget to press each stuck with a special side clamp so that it does not "walk".

So go first on the teeth of the chain directed in one direction, and then for the other side again set up the machine along the smallest tooth and sharpen the teeth on this side.

In order not to start sharpening the teeth on the second round, you can tinker to the tooth with a marker.

After carrying out such sharpening, it is necessary to go through the cutting depth limiters (guide tooths) flat file with a corresponding template to give the necessary difference in height between the guide and cutting tooth on the link.

So as to correctly sharpen a chain on a chainsaw, follow the instructions specified above and everything will turn out.

instrument-Tehnika.ru.

How to sharpen chain chainsaws. Sharpening rules with a file. Tools for sharpening.

Cutting with a stupid chain leads to an increase in fuel consumption and excessive wear of chainsaws. You can easily avoid this by sharpening the chain regularly and correctly. We will understand how to sharpen the chain chainsaws correctly.

Why hush chain chainsaws?

If the chain is correct and in a timely manner, it will reduce:

  • wear chain and chainsaws;
  • fuel consumption and emission level of exhaust gases;
  • vibration when working;
  • applied force and physical exertion;
  • chance of an accident.

This increases the performance and speed of cutting.

Chain Structure and Functions

To figure out how to sharpen the chain correctly, it is necessary to understand the basic principles of its device and work. It is impossible to sharpen the chain on the eye, it will be necessary to know the main characteristics of the chain and its components.

One of the main elements of the chain is a cutting tooth, which is crashed into the wood and removes the chips. Tooth depth limiter determines the thickness wood chips And limits the depth of penetration into the tree.

Depth of propyl

The distance between the cutting angle and the depth limiter should be the same on all the cutting links. Depending on the type of chain, the recommended parameters relative to the limiter are 0.025 "(0.65 mm) or 0.030" (0.75 mm).

Tube angles parameters

Sharpening angle different types The chains may vary and depends on the purpose of use. The table below shows the main parameters of the corners of the cutting link, but in any case, it is worth adhere to the recommendations of the manufacturer on a specific chain. The optimal result of cutting is achieved by sharpening all the corners of the tooth.

Determination of the diameter of the file

The chain step defines the selection of the correct diameter of the file and has a direct dependence. The sizes in the table are indicated in inches and millimeters.

The step is determined by dividing the distance between the three rivets into two.

How to sharpen chain chainsaws correctly: direction and position of the file

To sharpen the cutting edge, a round file will be required.

  • 1/5 (20%) from the diameter of the file must perform above the upper face;
  • the position of the file - horizontally at an angle of 90 ° in relation to the guide bar;
  • the preferred sharpening angle is 30 °;
  • direction of a file - from the open inside of the tooth.

During sharpening, try not to damage other components of the chain. The file will be made only towards forward, so you can not move back and forth, thereby damaging the tooth and the file itself.

Chain sharpening process

  • Clear chain chainsaws;
  • check chain chainsaws for damage and, if necessary, replace damaged components;
  • increase chain tension to prevent cutting teeth from moving during sharpening;
  • secure the chainsaw;
  • find the shortest tooth (for orientation) on both sides;
  • sharpen all cutting teeth on one side, and then go to the other side;
  • check the result of sharpening: sharpening angle, side and upper face;
  • check the height of the stopping depth limiter (if necessary, reduce height with a flat file);
  • remove metal dust;
  • lubricate chain;
  • adjust the tension of the chain.

How to sharpen chain chainsaws using the tool

It is described above how to sharpen the chain of chainsaws correctly without the use of special devices. You can easily facilitate the task and take advantage of the tool created specifically to accelerate the sharpening process.

Sharpening device 12V.

Portable sharpening, operating from car battery or other source direct current 12 V. Inexpensive and excellent option for those who use chainsaw on a regular basis. As a rule, in the kit there are several grinding stones of various diameters.

Shoe set (file, tire, caliber)

The advantage is that you are guaranteed to get right corner And the depth of sharpening. In this case, the result is accuracy, in the first - only speed.

Hand sharpening machine

Using such a machine is installed, fixed optimal corner sharpening. Allows you to achieve the best results without removing the chain with chainsaws.

Electric sharpening machine

No effort for sharpening is required: set the angle, depth and turn on the machine. Work is performed quickly and efficiently. Depending on the manufacturer, prices are very different, the range is large.

Someone prefers a manual way, someone with the help of a car. Each of them has its pros and cons.

Manual method using only a file is inexpensive, you will not have to spend money. Cool chainsaws can be sharpened anywhere and at any time. In this way, the smallest amount of metal is removed, it means that the saw will serve longer. Disadvantage - requires skill. Maintaining accurate angles is a rather complicated process and can lead to an incorrect and uneven sharpening, which will affect the quality and safety of cutting.

Electric machines are easy to use, allow you to constantly maintain accurate angles when sharpening a chain. Disadvantages - machines often lead to removal too large number Metal with teeth, which reduces the service life of the chain.

What method is better? Obviously, depends on the preferences of each particular user with chainsaw. Despite the fact that the power tool is easy to use, some people prefer to use manual files (in a set or manual machine).

How to sharpen chain chainsaws, solve only you. If you are going to use chainsaw for hard tasks for a year, you will definitely often have to sharpen it. Therefore, it makes sense to invest in an electric sharpener. However, if you use chainsaw several times or for easy tasks, you will fit a cheap and simple option - a hand tool.

Even popular Stihl is not eternal: once the teeth chainsaw wear out that it is easy to establish in the nature of the shavings formed. When the blotted cutting edge, the chips is fine, because the working edge does not cut, and the wood. Naturally, the effort spent sharply accelerated. It's time to sharpen the saw. How to do it right - choose optimal technology, set, what is the sharpening angle of the tooth should be and how to check it?

External signs of the fastened cutting edge of the tooth chainsaws

Recall that the tooth benzopils has a complex configuration (see Fig. 1), which depends on the direction of movement of the chain. It has two working edges: side, which is located perpendicular to the axis of the movement of the links, and the top, located under a certain angle to the direction of movement of the chain. In addition, each tooth provides a limiter whose parameters determine the height of the chip taken. Since the main plot of the cut is exactly the working angle, then on what angle to sharpen the tooth will depend on the entire subsequent work with the tool.

Figure 1 - Functional parts of the tooth Chainsaws and their appearance

Before starting long work with a chainsaw, it needs to be inspected and perform a test sawing, as a result of which:

  1. Visually establish the presence (or absence) of the conical section adjacent to the angle of the tooth, as well as the radius rounding on it - the main signs of blunting (see Fig. 2).

Figure 2.

  1. Check the feed force at which the tool works steadily, with a rapid production of cut. For sharp teeth, the initial moment of the introduction of the tooth in the wood occurs quickly, and without significant resistance of the material.
  2. Find out the presence of vibrations of the chain during the steady cut - if they are noticeable, the teeth must be sharpened.
  3. Inspect the appearance of the just-cut end (especially if the tool is involved for longitudinal sawing). If there are coarse chips and dents chain chainsaws are sharpened.

Sharpening Corners and Tooth Configuration Chainsaws

The cutting edge of the tooth is characterized by the following parameters:

  • Width;
  • Thick;
  • Sharpening angle.

In addition, each tool model has its own teeth, the value of which for household and semi-professional models is associated with a power of chainsaws, and a torque that develops the drive. For example, for longitudinal sawing, the step is taken less (for example, 0.325 inches). The performance of the work will decrease, but the required effort will be significantly lower. The upper values \u200b\u200bof the steps for household chainsaws are extremely rare, mainly with a roll of trees with a large diameter of the trunk. The engine power does not have to exceed 2500 W.

The thickness of the cutting edge in most manufacturers of chainsaw is installed in the same, and equal to 1.3 mm (there are edges with a thickness of 1.1 mm, but, firstly, they are extremely difficult to sharpen at home, and, secondly, such links are extremely A little functional: they can only be used to cut thin boughs).

The height of the chain profile can be either 0.625 mm, or 0.762 mm, and for the domestic benzoinstrument in the overwhelming majority, it is a low profile. Upon sharpening of the limiters, this parameter is very important, because with a decrease in the height of superconductible values, the tool vibration increases during operation, although the quality of the propyl remains is still satisfactory. Therefore, it is not necessary to get carried away with a decrease in the height of the limiter when the tooth is sharpening.

The chain chain sharpening angle depends on the main purpose of the instrument - for transverse or for longitudinal sawmills. Since under the longitudinal sawmium, wood resistance is always noticeably higher, the edge of the tooth must be very acute. It is recommended to do it in the range of 6 ... 12 ° (for comparison - with the prevail of the transverse cut - up to 25 ... 30 °). Naturally, in the first case, the sharpening should be made more often, and especially carefully, since there is an unacceptable small angle of inclination of the tooth contributes to its rapid coloring during the work of chainsaws. This is especially important for units that are made from structural alloyed steels containing silicon and manganese, for example, 40HGS or 35xgss.

Template for sharpening chainsaw chainsaw

By purchasing a chainsaw, it is advisable to get a special template (see Fig. 3), with which you can easily establish the optimal values \u200b\u200bof the tooth corners. With it, it is controlled by the values \u200b\u200bof the rear angles of the upper and end blades, as well as the front angle of the edge (it is specified in the manufacturer's instructions, and may vary within 65 ... 80 °).

Especially important to apply the template to evaluate the value of the rear angle of the upper blade. This chain sharpening angle is very difficult to determine the chain chains, and meanwhile it is necessary to withstand in fairly limited limits - from 50 to 60 °.

Measurement of the angle of sharpening is performed by determining the angle between the upper cutting edge and the line perpendicular to the guide chain.

Chainsaw sharpening angle can be changed, depending on which work will be made. With an increase in wood hardness, its value should be less. In general, it is considered the optimal value of the angle of 10 ... 12 ° - with a longitudinal pickle, and 25 ... 30 ° - with a transverse cut.

Figure 3 - The appearance of the template for dragging teeth chainsaws

A sharpening can be done manually using a round file with a 4-mm working diameter of 4 ... 5.5 mm, or on the machine. In the first case, it is extremely important to correctly position the tool relative to the stuffed tooth. The upper edge of the working part of the file is located about the fifth part above the top edge of the tooth. The tool is perpendicular to the axis of the chain, and at an angle of 25 ... 30 ° to the top edge of the tooth

One round file is not enough. For sharpening the limiter, a flat file will be required, and to clean the venue of the work - a hook that removes the resulting sawdust. There are also special holders on sale, on which the lines of the direction of movement of a file relative to the axis of the chain are marked. As can be seen from fig. 4, the holder can be installed on the tooth from above, and rely on its upper edge. Since the height of the holder is adapted to a certain step of the chain, it should be chosen in relation to chainsaws of specific models and brands.

The minimum required kit in order to get the right chain sharpening angle manual way, presented in Fig. five.

Figure 5 - Set of sharpening tools and fixtures

First, the teeth of one direction are drained, and then the other. Start with light pressed tools in the direction of themselves, gradually increasing the load. During sharpening, the round file periodically turns along its axis.

Mechanized sharpening on the machine

Sharpening on the machine is much more convenient, and does not require high qualifications of the artist. Such machines have an electric drive, and are equipped with special sharpening circles.

For the household workshop, it is worth purchasing compact units that do not occupy a lot of space during storage, and suitable for fast and high-quality chainsaw chainsaws from different manufacturers. Such aggregates should operate from the stationary power supply with a voltage of 220 V, have a small power consumption (up to 100 W) and the ease of its installation on the chain.

Choosing the machine, you need to pay attention to the following technological characteristics:

  • The possibility of treating teeth with different thickness of the upper edge and a different step of the chain;
  • The possibility of adjusting the angle of sharpening within the limits specified earlier;
  • The presence of replaceable grinding discs;
  • The constant value of the recent width.

The design of the machine is simple, and includes a drive motor, shaft with a planting place for a sharpening disk, a handle with controls, a fixture for fixing the machine to the chain. Adjusting the pressing force on the styled element is provided by spring clamp. Modern models Sharpening machines are supplied with a differentiated clamp that provides for self-centered products on the machine. For the convenience of working on the clamp body there is a measuring scale.

Optionally machine tools can also be supplied with a miniature light bulb, which produces illumination of the working area, as well as a hydraulic fracture that facilitates sharpening.

The safety of work is ensured by a campaign safety shield.

Chainsaw - required tool For household needs, he will have a worthy application at the cottage. Chainsaw is easy to cut firewood for the stove or fireplace. She also manifests itself well and with every owner such an assistant should know the right angle to call a specialist at home, and, even more so, the country, worth a lot of money. Therefore, you have to do with your own.

Although it is better to assign sharpening a professional, some loggers independently know this craft. If specialists in the log cabin account for 3-4 times per day to sharpen the chain, then the ordinary gardener does not have such a need for the fact that it rarely uses the tool. How can I master the craft yourself? There are some recommendations for this.

Features of the work of chainsaw

Cutting wood is similar to the work of the Rubank. In this case, the slice size depends on the thickness of the limiter. When the saw chain works in intensive mode, the teeth are blown faster. This is pronounced when the surface of the soil appears on the track path. To fully blow the teeth, enough for a couple of seconds to "catch" for the soil.

If, if possible, it is often sharpened, the chain will serve much longer, because quite a bit of metal will be removed. In addition to the question of what the chain sharpening corner must be, it should also be known!

Working with a blunt tool is undesirable for a number of reasons. First of all, this is reflected on the quality of the cut, and not in best side. Also quickly comes fatigue, which is felt not only in the hands, but also the body.

Another reason is an unjustified overrun of fuel. All items will work in reinforced mode, which inevitably leads to their rapid wear. Performance seriously falls, which also happens when using a defective chain.

Features of the structure of the chain

To effectively be able to sharpen chain chainsaws, it is necessary to know the structure of its teeth. Do not do and without knowing the angle of sharpening. Each tooth is different complex structure. Its geometry is represented by the following components:

  • base;
  • shovel;
  • depth limiter.

In this case, the blade consists of two blades: the end and top. And between them should be the correct chain sharpening chain chains in order to provide it with the necessary performance.

As you can now guess - not a chain saw a tree, because it serves as the basis for fixing the cutting units, moves them with high speed. The links themselves have sharp blades, with the help of which and saws wood.

How to find out when you need sharpening?

Determine whether the teeth of the chain were finished or not, it is possible for some characteristic features. Of course, it all depends on how intensively the chainsaw is used. It is worth noticeing to what chips she leaves. Its homogeneity and square shapes point to a sharp teeth. If the chain was drunk, then she usually leaves the wood dust, and the sawmill themselves come to the needles, which "produces" manual hacksaw.

If the speed of cutting is reduced, then this is also considered a sign of blunt chain. It is felt an increase in the load on the tool itself and the appearance of vibration. Newcomers are not always possible to notice some of these signs. Therefore, they should pay more attention to the quality of chips. Sometimes it happens brown Tintthat already guaranteed indicates that it is time to sharpen the chain.

Methods for sharpening

To sharpen the tool, you can contact the services of masters that not only know what kind of chain sharpening the chainsaws, but will make all the work quickly and at the professional level. As a rule, the cost of such services is not so high, but quality, on the contrary, is very high! Such an option is suitable for those fans of logging, which have no desire to mess with their tool.

Everyone else is interesting to try your hand in this case. Professionals in this regard always choose automatic equipment, which is characterized by maximum efficiency and accuracy. Of course, his acquisition is not every logger by pocket, and therefore they are bypass in different ways. And here, among many lovers, discussions are conducted on the topic, which method is better to give preference:

  • manual;
  • alternative;
  • modern.

You should not neglect the signs of blunting, and at the very first need to start the chainsaw sharpening operation. This will allow us to use it as long as possible.

Correct sharpening angle

The angle is not a constant value, does not depend on the manufacturer or equipment model. He is selected with what kind of tree will have to deal with. You can choose some averaged value, however, the effectiveness of the cut may be ineffective. For this reason, it is necessary to choose the correct value by taking into account the specific breed of wood.

If a we are talking About solid wood, including those trees that have long "frozley", it has a high resistivity. In connection with this, the sharpening angle should be reduced. This will allow practically avoiding the appearance of vibrations, and the chain move will be softer. The minimum value is 25 °.

In relation to soft varieties of wood, it is possible to increase the angle of sharpening, but not more than 35 °. Performance will increase significantly. As for the chain sharpening angle for longitudinal sawmills, the value is 10 °. In this case, the cut will be as smooth as possible, and the vibration of the equipment is minimized. Knowing such features, you can proceed to consideration of different methods of sharpening.

Manual method

This is the simplest and slower technique at sharpening the chain teeth. Nevertheless, the way is good when the sharpening is produced in place in the forest. Do not carry all the time with you a whole machine?! But it should be more accurate - it is understood not one tool, but a whole set where:

  • flat file;
  • round file;
  • template.

Each of them fulfills its duties. The main purpose of the flat tool is sharpening the depth limiter.

Round file already performs the main operation, makes cutting edges sharper. At the same time, for each chain, a certain tool diameter is required:

  • step ¼ inches - 4 mm;
  • step 0.325 - 4.8 mm;
  • step 3/8 inches - 5.2 mm;
  • step 0.404 - 5.5 mm.

For Picco chains that are equipped with a "County" 180 chainsaws in 3/8 and a quarter of an inches, a 4 mm diameter is also suitable. It is important to keep it correctly. With respect to the vertical plane, the file must be located strictly perpendicular to the chain, and with respect to horizontal - at a low angle (about 30 °). The specific sharpening angle is chosen depending on the needs, but within 25-35 °.

Unlike chain sharpening chainsaws on the machine, the angle here can be installed using a template that is considered a useful assistant. For this, it is equipped with two slots: Soft / S (for soft wood) and Hard / H (for solid rock). The template should be fixed above the chain, which gives it the privileges of the limiter.

Only one should take into account that this method It is not intended for continuous use, but serves only as editing blades. Too frequent use of a file with time leads to the wear of the chain, and the teeth themselves will be reaping unevenly.

Bulgarian - a good alternative

Professional loggers consider such a method primitive and time consuming. It is used in the most extreme case, since the grinder cannot be fixed on the template. For this reason, it is very difficult to achieve monitoring the permanent angle and sharpening depth.

The tire is securely fixed in the vice, to eliminate its mobility while working. It is not necessary to mount a new cutting disc on the grinder, it is better to use the old circle with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm.

Newbies are better not to use this method at all - there will be more. There is a risk of acting serious injury. In addition, it is not necessary to do without working skills with such equipment.

Modern method

Almost every unprofessiona concerns the question, what is the sharpening corner of the chain chainsaw on the machine? It will not be difficult to use the file, to use the grinder, and for beginners, this procedure is dangerous at all. There is nothing to do anything, you have to use machines that can be both mechanical and electrical.

With a manual machine will have to work as a whole "Eternity", and from the use of an electric analog you can enjoy. Today, the choice has a wide variety of models that provide

  • the right sharpening angle;
  • high level of quality of work;
  • high sharpening speed.

It is also worth noting that the sharpening is performed evenly in relation to all units. All you need is to include equipment in the network, set the desired angle, enjoy the spectacle or do other things. The cost of such machines varies from 2 to 4 thousand rubles. But the most important thing is to determine the sharpening angle of the chain chainsaw "County" on the machine will not be difficult.

At least S. manual equipment Long - the process is very long, but it costs at times cheaper. In appearance, the machine resembles an inaccurate saw, only instead of a canvas - a file round shape. The lowest tooth is also being taken. At the same time, two or three movements have enough for sharpening, after which you can go to the next link. If necessary, process the limiter - the file changes (the round is replaced flat).

Sharpening rules

The same type of sections of each link must be subject to uniform processing. Otherwise, if at some one site there will be an excessive sample of metal, then it ultimately leads to an imbalance, non-uniformity of the stroke and trimming during the work of chainsaws. The load on the mechanism is at times increases, which in turn threatens the chain rupture.

Therefore, it is necessary to carry out an operation under the necessary angle sharpening chain chains (as well as any other tool) with extreme caution, avoiding excessive effort. The procedure itself is performed in series, that is, you need to start on the one hand, then finish on the other.

In some cases, it is possible to observe that some kind of cutting edge (or several) was stronger. It happens when the chain on his way appeared on the bitch, which occurs when he was picking, then it is necessary to determine which of the teeth it was finished the greater and equal to all the other links.

After the sharpening is completed, it is necessary to blow the chain by air from the compressor or the pump, and then put it in the tank with the engine oil for a short time. Usually few people do, but for the chain it will be useful.

Some useful tips will help keep equipment at workable condition, as well as eliminate the risks of injury. Of course, to know the right sharpening corner of the chain chainsaw "CHTIL" is necessary. But also the timely care of the tire is also important:

  1. It is necessary to control in particular if the chainsaw is leaked during the work of the chainsaw. Bad tension may pose a threat to a person.
  2. In a timely manner, not laying everything in a long box. Let it be considered, but it is better to give preference to electrical equipment.
  3. Regularly lubricate the entire chain, otherwise it can fly (its speed is about 100 km / h). Conclusions each will do it yourself.
  4. Do not use spent automotive oil or any product of dubious quality. It is worth choosing only specialized lubricants. how best tool - Autol.

Before starting to work with a chainsaw, the chain should rush. Give her to work in the mode of minimum revolutions for 40-50 seconds. The lubricant will reach every detail, and the chains with an asterisk are slightly warm, they will proveriate to each other.

All of these expert advice should not be ignored if you want to remain whole and unharmed!

Finally

Chainsaw chain sharpening angle is selected based on what tree you need to cut. If there is free time and desire, it is not difficult to restore the efficiency of the equipment. Even an amateur can cope with the work, who at least once in his life worked as a file. Of course, for this you will have to spend from 30 to 700 rubles for the purchase of a sharpening set. approximate cost Services at sharpening chains in some company 200-300 rubles. Final choice for a logger.