Build a warm annex. Extension to a wooden house: projects, construction technologies, choosing the best option. Verandas are the easiest option for expanding the house

Sometimes it happens that after the construction of a country house, it turns out that it has a small square, or there is a need for a separate kitchen, utility block, workshop or shed. In this case, you have to make an extension to the house. To reduce material costs to a minimum, you should immediately think about what to build it from.

How to build an extension to a house with minimal costs, with photos and examples, how to prepare the foundation for it, what material to choose for the walls and roof - further in the article.

general information

In the event that water supply and sewerage are planned in the extension, as in the case of the construction of a kitchen or bathrooms, this issue should be puzzled before pouring the foundation.

If you plan to use the extension not only in the summer, then floor insulation should be provided, for example, using expanded clay bedding. It is also useful to think over how to heat the room in case of winter residence.

As an easy option for an extension, you can equip a veranda - it provides protection from wind and bad weather. In winter, living on the veranda will not work, since, as a rule, it is not heated.

The extension must be in harmony with the main structure. An economical, warm and pre-fabricated version of the structure - a frame made of wood, after erection it is easy to finish it under the main building. It has many advantages:

simplicity and speed of construction;
relative cheapness;
ecological cleanliness of the extension;
there is no need to build a capital foundation.

Erection of the foundation

For a veranda or a frame-type residential extension, a columnar foundation is suitable, since the weight of the structure is small. If there is a need to bring communications, as in the case of a bathroom or a kitchen, it is necessary to ensure thermal insulation of the water supply and sewerage sections located on the street. This will cost a pretty penny, but the costs are much less than if it was necessary to equip a strip foundation. The floors in such an extension are made of planks so as not to make the structure heavier.

The concrete pillars on which the structure will stand are poured 50x50 cm in size at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other. The bottom of the pits under the pillars is sprinkled with a layer of sand, then with rubble, and all this is thoroughly rammed.

The pillars must be reinforced to give strength to the foundation. Remove the formwork about a week after pouring, when the concrete gains strength. As a waterproofing, bitumen or roofing material is glued to the posts.

Bottom rail and floors

In order for the frame extension to serve for a long time, it is necessary to provide waterproofing and impregnate all wooden elements with an antiseptic and fungicidal composition. Bituminous mastic provides high-quality waterproofing.

A 150x150 mm bar, preferably made of larch, is used as the lower strapping. Roofing material must be brought under it to isolate it from the foundation. The first row is laid strictly horizontally in level, without connecting the timber at the joints.

The second row is laid with overlapping joints on the first. Then, using the pins, the first and second rows are connected. You can use boards of 50x150 mm instead of timber, and in order to achieve the integrity of the structure, connect them with self-tapping screws.

The lower harness is attached to the planks on which the logs are laid. Between the lags, they put insulation, for example, polystyrene, and put rough floors. The clean floors are made of moisture-resistant plywood.

Walls

Walls are made in two ways - either they assemble the structure on the ground, and then erect, or gradually they build the frame in place. For the first option, several people are needed, since the structure cannot be lifted alone.

The construction process begins with corner posts, it is very important to maintain right angles in all planes. For racks, a bar with a cross section of at least 100x100 mm is used. The pillars are placed at a distance slightly narrower than the width of the insulation sheet.

Openings for windows and doors are equipped with additional pillars and crossbars. The top of the frame is fastened with an upper strapping of the same design as the lower one. Sheathing is carried out by OSB, siding, plywood, clapboard.

Roof and insulation of the extension

The easiest way to equip the roof is with a conventional one-pitched roof. It should be done as an extension of the roof of the main building. This is possible if the extension to the house is lateral. The roof of the extension must go under the main roof.

All elements - rafters, beams, lathing must be treated with an antiseptic. The roof is overlapped and, depending on its type, is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws or slate nails.

Foam or mineral wool is used as insulation. First, the frame is sheathed with a hydro-barrier, then an insulating material is placed between the frame posts, and a vapor barrier is attached between it and the lining. Then they are attached to the racks of OSB or drywall, and proceed to finishing.

Photos of extensions to the house

Such projects are used to increase living space, improve the appearance and expand the basic functionality of the building. At the same time, it is extremely important to study carefully what a high-quality extension to a wooden house is. Projects should be designed taking into account the complexity of their implementation. To do this, you will have to familiarize yourself with the features of building technologies. This article will make it much easier to make the right decision. Go!

Read in the article

Extension to the house: options, photos of successful projects, formulation of general requirements

This photo clearly explains the convention of the name. A large extension to a wooden house can significantly improve the original technical and aesthetic characteristics. The main thing is that there is enough size for large-scale plans. Of course, we must not forget about the financial and time components of the project.

Remember! It is better to complete the construction of such structures in one warm season. Otherwise, there will be additional costs for winter storage. Accurate planning can help you save money in several steps. In particular, bulk purchases of the necessary basic and finishing materials will come in handy.

To build an extension to your own hands, you need to realistically assess your own strength. The most complex work steps can be assigned to specialized specialists. But even in this case, your own knowledge will come in handy for careful control of the performers.

For your information! It is better to hire highly qualified professionals. Slave labor has been abolished also due to insufficient efficiency. Involvement of relatives and other questionable helpers can be supplemented by unforeseen additional consumption of materials, time and money.

In any case, you should correctly formulate the target task in order to accurately create a set of design documentation. The projects of additions to the house discussed below will help you make the right decision. When studying in detail, pay attention to the nuances that are important to yourself. Remember that these examples can be used in various combinations to successfully meet individual needs.

A universal solution to various tasks with the addition of a veranda to a wooden house

This standard definition allows for an accurate grouping of different architectural structures. In this case, we are talking about a relatively light construction. Protection of an extension to a wooden house from adverse external influences is designed for the summer season. Full insulation is not provided here. However, the ingress of rain and wind is prevented.

How to add a garage to a house: features of technical rooms

It is better to place the corresponding layers outside. This prevents the dew point from moving towards the room, prevents moisture from penetrating into the walls. In such places, it is better to use foamed polymer boards, which do not need to be additionally protected from water.

The following table provides data that will help you make the correct calculation, taking into account the temperature conditions in a particular region:

Wall thickness, cm	Weight 1 sq. structures, kg	Consumption of materials per 1 sq. M. walls			Permissible outside air temperature, ° C	Notes (edit)
Wall thickness, cm	Weight 1 sq. structures, kg	Brick, pcs	Masonry mortar, l	Piece tour building mixture, l	Permissible outside air temperature, ° C	Notes (edit)
Clay brick (silicate and ordinary) with a bulk density of 1900 kg per 1 cubic meter.
25	480	102	65	25	-3
51	950	204	127	25	-20
770	1410	308	193	25	-40
42	720	152	85	50	-20
55	950	204	117	50	-33
68	1190	256	150	50	-40
Multi-hole brick (effective) with a bulk density of 1300 kg per 1 cubic meter.
25	350	103	50	25	-7	Solid masonry, internal plaster, external jointing
38	520	154	76	25	-21
64	860	259	128	25	-48
42	530	154	66	50	-30	Air gap, external and internal plaster
68	870	259	118	50	-55	Air gap, external and internal plaster

Use this information when choosing materials. The final cost of the project depends on many factors. Sometimes it is more profitable to make a large initial investment but lower operating costs.

Important! The above examples can be applied in practice if the foundations are rigidly connected. Otherwise, the roof of an extension to a wooden house is made independent of the main structure.

Do-it-yourself construction of an extension to the house: step-by-step instructions with important notes

Photo	How to attach an extension to a house. The main stages of work with comments
	The basis of the project is an old house with a slate roof. The entrance part consisted of a "dressing room", which had dubious aesthetic and insufficient insulation characteristics.
	After inspecting the object, a decision was made to build an extension to a wooden house using frame technology. For this light one-story structure, the load capacity of the strip foundation is enough.
	In accordance with the plan, they dig a trench, install	After pouring the mortar, protruding parts (M12) should remain on the surface. They are useful for rigid connection with the walls of an extension to a wooden house.
	it is better to do it in one go in order to obtain a homogeneous support structure without seams and internal defects. A waterproofing layer made of a sheet of roofing material is installed at the place of adjoining the house.
	After the mixture has completely solidified, the formwork is carefully removed. The exact time depends on external temperature conditions, percentages and parameters of the components.
	Please note that at the stage of preparation for pouring, special pipes are installed for the subsequent laying of electrical cables, water supply, and other engineering networks. In this project, holes have been made in all of the walls of the foundation for the space under the wooden floor.
	Not only the contour is concreted, but also separate sites for the installation of supports, a fireplace, and other heavy equipment. A similar technology is used with reinforcement.
	Through a layer of roofing material, support boards are installed on the strip foundation. Their reliable fixation is provided by anchors. Next, the edges of the transverse lags are mounted.
	Sewerage pipes and other utilities are installed under the floor level until free access to this space is blocked.
	Mount the floor covering. In this project, the author used a thick moisture resistant one. It turned out to be a solid, even base. For between the logs, mineral wool is installed, which is protected from water penetration by a film on both sides.
	The frame of the walls is sequentially installed. To maintain the vertical position of these elements, temporary supports are used.
	Here, the walls are installed on all sides, which creates a closed loop of a full-fledged living space.
	At the next stage, the truss structure is installed. The photo shows that the author delayed the implementation of the project, so the installation had to be postponed to the winter. In this case, we are only talking about unfavorable conditions for performing work operations. "Wet" technological processes were completed on time, in the warm season.
	Install the roof structure from ondulin, with a layer of waterproofing. Mineral wool mats are inserted into the cells of the walls, covered with foil. Vinyl siding is fixed on the outside. Inside - lining. They mount window and door blocks. The finishing decorative finish is performed at its own discretion.

Here it is described how to make an extension to a house using a frame structure. When using other technologies, the appropriate instructions should be followed. Do not forget to make the necessary changes as the load on the foundation increases.

Choosing a construction crew and the secrets of strict control

For a better orientation in this segment of the service market, below are the extensions to a wooden house with prices and general characteristics:

Terrace600 × 300Beam, 150 × 50 mm, lining140000-175000 Separately, it is necessary to pay for windows, doors, installation of the roof. Two-story frame annex600 × 600Beams 100 × 50 and 150 × 50, lining, blockhouse.580000-620000 It is paid separately for the replacement of window and door blocks, filing of the outer part of the roof, up to the standards of the living space.

If you offer to build an extension to the house inexpensively, check carefully the list of materials and work. To check, use your own list of mandatory activities that can be compiled based on the materials in this article. Specify the cost of delivery, installation, finishing, garbage disposal. This approach will eliminate unpleasant surprises. It is necessary to study the text of the agreement in advance. If you have any difficulties - consult with an experienced lawyer.

Successful examples of extensions to the house: verandas and terraces, photos and comments

A thorough general analysis of the situation will help you make the right decision. Eliminate errors based on the incorrect statement "Money is everything!" The real benefits are gained by the person who makes his "little gray cells" work.

Even if there are no funding problems, thematic knowledge will come in handy. They will help:

choose the right project;
formulate terms of reference;
find the best basic and finishing materials;
control work;
argue for the need to correct deficiencies.

The information from this article will be useful for performing individual operations or the entire project on your own. It is impossible to foresee all the problems encountered in practice within the framework of one publication. Ask additional questions in the comments. Chat with like-minded people, experienced craftsmen and authors of realized ideas. This will simplify the construction of a quality extension to the wooden house.

Extensions to the house, as a rule, are built in cases where it is necessary to expand the living space, equip a veranda or terrace for summer holidays, get additional space for placing a garage or any utility rooms in them. Of course, such an extension must have a secure roof. And very often in such cases, questions are raised by the joining of the roof of the extension with the walls of the main structure or with its roof. These areas are the most vulnerable in terms of the likelihood of leaks, which, alas, often happens with improper installation.

To figure out how to make a high-quality roof, it makes sense to analyze in detail some of the nuances of various options for its construction. Naturally, while paying special attention to the implementation of waterproofing work when arranging the lines of joints and abutments.

A few words about the basic roof structure

To make it easier in the future to understand the terminology, so to speak, "speak the same language", it makes sense to consider a schematic diagram of the roof structure. As an example, its hip version is taken, simply because it usually includes almost all the elements that make up a rafter system of any type.

So, the rafter system consists of the following parts, each of which has a specific purpose:

Mauerlat - this is a powerful beam, laid and fixed around the perimeter of the house on its load-bearing walls. It is designed for the most even weight distribution of the entire roof structure and external loads falling on it. Very often, it is on this structural element that the lower side of the rafter legs is fixed.
- these are, one might say, the main parts of any system that form the roof slopes and serve as the basis for fastening the battens and roofing material. Rafters are made from a board that has a section necessary to ensure strength.
Diagonal (slant) rafters - these elements are part of the hip, half-hip and multi-gable rafter system. They are installed at the corners of the building and connect them to the ridge run (ridge).
Narodniks - it is also a rafter, but with a shorter length. They lean their ends on the Mauerlat and the diagonal (hip) rafter. (with a multi-gable roof - on a ridge girder and a diagonal rafter)
Ridge run - a longitudinal board or timber on which the rafters are fixed in their upper part.
Tightening - horizontal q bar or a board that holds the opposite rafter legs together in a pair, in the lower or middle part of them. The lower puffs can also serve as attic floor beams at the same time. If they are installed in the middle part of the rafters, then in addition a beam can be included in the rafter system, which acts as a floor beam.
Racks or headstock - structural reinforcement elements. They are installed on a puff (or on a bench installed on an internal capital wall) and support the ridge run or directly the rafter leg, thereby reducing its span between the support points.
Strut - a diagonally located reinforcement element, abutting on one side against the rafter leg, and on the other against a tightening, bed or rack. This part of the rafter system serves to give it additional rigidity, and also helps to remove some of the load from the weight of the structure from the walls of the building.
Sprengel - element, characteristic of hip rafter systems... This is a bar constricting in the corners of the Mauerlat and serves as the basis for the racks that support the diagonal rafters (which are usually the largest in length). This reinforcement detail also helps relieve stress from the walls of the house.
Wind beam - optional, but still quite often used element of strengthening the system. This is a diagonally located board that is fixed on the rafter legs from the attic side and makes the structure more rigid. This element is necessary if the roof slopes have a steep slope. Usually located on the upwind side.
Filly - board or timber, with the help of which the rafter legs are built up in the lower part. They are usually designed to form the eaves overhang of the roof slopes.

Prices for fasteners for rafters

rafters

So, the main elements in any rafter system are the elements that form the roof slopes - these are rafters and a ridge girder. The rest of the parts can be considered auxiliary, therefore only some of them can be used in various systems.

Extension roof types

What options are possible in principle

First, it's worth figuring out what the roof of an extension to a house can be. It is quite obvious that its type will directly depend on the design of the main rafter system and how the extension is located relative to the main building.

So, either the expansion of the residential building itself, or the addition of a separate auxiliary room from it, can be carried out from one, two or even three sides of the house. Therefore, the roof for it can have different types of construction.

The most popular option for the roof of the extension is, since it has the simplest design and is not particularly difficult to install. This option is usually used when an extension is made only on one side of the house, usually along its long side.

However, the roof of the extension can also have a gable, half-hip or hip structure. There are even more complex configurations of truss systems, which, in combination with the roof of the main building, form a multi-gable structure. But they are usually planned for a complete renovation of the house, thus even changing its architectural style.

Most often, the owners of average private houses do not particularly "bother" and choose a simple pitched roof for the extension, located along one of the walls of the building.

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of people sitting, conducting a sewage system into the house, or the need to close the front door from a direct hit of cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, arranging a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

An extension to the house with your own hands can be made of wood, brick, or in a combined version, which includes several building materials.

Requirements for premises

In order not to have to make additional changes in the attached room, it is better to immediately think over all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Additional room

If you want to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost tantamount to building a small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating supplied to it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a living space. The second important condition for normal living is the absence of dampness in the room, which means that reliable waterproofing is needed.

Kitchen or bathroom

When arranging these premises, before installing the foundation, engineering communications are brought to the construction site - in particular, sewer pipes. You may have to separately carry out and plumbing.

In addition, you should also pay attention to the insulation of all structural elements, think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

Veranda

A veranda is a light structure that mainly serves to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain, or is used for summer holidays. It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and may be and completely open, that is, represent a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This structure does not require special insulation, but waterproofing for the foundation will still have to be done.

Foundation device for an extension

The foundation for the extension can be tape, made of bricks or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To dwell on one of them, you need to find out how each structure is arranged, and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Foundation information

Strip foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:

First, you need to mark and trace the place where the extension will be installed. This is done with a rope that is stretched on the ground and secured with pegs.

Further, along the markings, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of his entire house is arranged. It will be nice to fix the reinforcement that unites the foundations of the main structure and annexes before pouring concrete.
The width of the trench should be 100–150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
After the trench is dug, its further preparation is underway. First, there is a backfill on the bottom of a sand cushion 100-120 mm thick. It must be carefully tamped down.
The next layer is covered with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
Further, along the entire perimeter, waterproofing is laid in the trench, which should extend to the surface of the soil by 40-50 cm, since it should cover not only the inner part of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
A welded reinforcing structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which must repeat the shape of the foundation, moreover, to its entire height.
Then the reinforcement is poured with a coarse concrete solution of cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the trench height, and after this layer has solidified, the next one is poured - to one-half of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundations

After pouring this layer, you can start arranging wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the basement. The waterproofing film is left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed on top of them so that it does not slide into the concrete.
Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that no air cavities remain inside it. You can tap the formwork lightly - this vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

After completing the pouring of the foundation, the concrete is leveled at the required level and left to dry, sprinkling with water daily to harden.
After the final hardening of the concrete, the formwork is removed and proceeds to waterproofing the foundation from the outside.
Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process, liquid rubber, tar, bitumen mastic and roofing material are used.

The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - with a concrete screed or with flooring from floor beams and a log with a wooden floor along them.

Video - construction of an extension to the house on a strip foundation

Column foundation

In addition to the strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be arranged, which is erected from brick or concrete, as well as in a combination of these materials. Basically, this option is called for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or drainage, in an uninsulated or even open underground, will require additional thermal insulation.

A columnar foundation is most often arranged if it is planned to mount a boardwalk.

The work is done in several stages:

The first step is the marking of the site selected for the extension. The pillars should be at a distance of one and a half meters from each other.

Pits are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. Towards the top, the pits should expand somewhat - by about 100 mm on each side.

Installation diagram of the foundation pillar

Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when constructing a strip foundation, using sand and gravel, waterproofing is laid.
If the pillars will be erected from bricks, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to solidify, they make brickwork.
If the pillars are concrete, reinforcement structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is allowed inside the formwork and fixed on top of it;
Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next is poured;
The top of the stem is well leveled and sprinkled daily with water until it solidifies;
After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproof roofing material, which is glued to the heated bituminous mastic.
Backfilling is made into the gap remaining between the soil and the pillars, tamping every 100-150 mm of backfilled soil mixed with rubble.
Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing wooden bars that will be laid on top of the pillars.

The device of the base of the floor of the extension

If a strip foundation is chosen, both wooden and concrete floors can be arranged on it. A columnar foundation without lintels presupposes a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside the strip foundation, you need do work step by step, adhering to a specific technology.

To begin with, excess soil is selected inside the finished strip foundations. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of about 250—350 mm.
At the bottom of the resulting pit, a sandy ten-centimeter pillow is poured and tamped. On top of it, you can lay crushed stone, but to insulate the screed instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used, poured in a layer of 15-20 cm.

Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grid is laid on it. After its installation, a system of beacons is arranged on top at the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, for example, a bathroom or an open terrace, may require a certain slope of the surface, so that the water that has fallen on the floor can flow freely to the drainage system.
Next, a cement mortar is laid out on the prepared surface and leveled using a rule. After a day, it can be covered with plastic wrap - then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative coating or a wooden floor can be laid on the resulting concrete base.

Floor on wooden beams

Floor beams are wooden blocks of a fairly large thickness, about 150 × 100 mm in cross-section. You cannot save on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

The beams are laid on pillars or a strip foundation, on top of a prepared roofing felt substrate, and can be fixed to concrete in different ways - using through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. Between themselves, the beams at the intersection are also fastened with the help of powerful corners.

They will hold securely, as the wooden flooring of the "black" and "white" floor also serves as a kind of binding fastener.

Video: erection of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Erection of the walls of the extension

Brick or frame walls can be arranged on the finished strip foundation, while the columnar one is mainly used for frame buildings. If it is planned to make brickwork on the pillars, then you will have to make additional concrete lintels between the pillars.

Frame walls

The frame for future walls is erected from a bar and fixed to the previously mounted crown floor beams. The bars can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

To connect the frame to the wall of the house, ideally accurate vertical markings are made on it, along which a separate bar or assembled frame element will be fixed.

For reliability, all the bars are interconnected with metal corners.

Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) from the outside. The cladding will immediately stiffen the structure.

The upper horizontal beam, which runs along the house, is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Video: another example of the construction of an easy extension to the house

Brick walls

Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the levelness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, level it to the ideal. If the base is uneven, then the masonry may crack from deformation during shrinkage.
It should be noted that brick extensions are best done to a brick house as well. In order to connect the extension with the main wall, holes are drilled in it during the construction of the walls two-thirds of the depth, through every two or three rows of masonry. Fittings are embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. So that the seams on these rows are not too wide, the reinforcement must be chosen not too thick, or it will be necessary to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
If a brick extension is arranged against a wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from the inside of the house, which will hold it in the wall. The reinforcement is also installed as the wall is being erected, every two or three rows.

Before masonry starts, a string is stretched along the future wall, along which it will be easy to control the horizontal rows, and the verticality is constantly verified using a plumb line.
The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this is a living room, then laying should be made of at least one or two bricks. If the room will play the role of a veranda or utility room, then half-brick masonry will be enough.
Having built brick walls, they are tied along the entire top with a concrete belt. For him, formwork is made, a reinforcing structure is laid in it and poured with concrete. After the mortar has completely solidified, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can proceed to the overlap device.

It should be noted that it is not as easy to build brick walls as it seems, therefore, if there is no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified bricklayer or choose a different type of walls.

Overlap extension and roof

After the walls have been erected, the ceiling must be made. It will need beams - beams, which are installed on the upper part of the walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and fixed with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, having previously wrapped the edge of each of them with roofing felt.

The next step is to hem the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which insulation will be laid from above, between the beams.

The roof of the extension can have different designs, but basically a single-pitched version is chosen, which is worth considering.

This structure consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. It is quite simple to arrange this type of roof, the main thing is to choose the correct slope angle. It must be at least 25 — 30 degrees - this is necessary so that precipitation in winter does not linger on the surface, otherwise they can simply damage it.
Having determined the angle of the slope, on the wall or front of the roof, a mark is made in the form of a horizontal flat line, along which the bar supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters should extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 — 300 mm, in order to protect the walls from rainwater as much as possible.
The rafters are also fixed using metal corners.
It will be more difficult to solve the issue of the slope of the roof if the extension is installed on the side from which the slope of the main building of the house is arranged, since there simply will not be anything to fix the transverse beam there. Therefore, it may be necessary to remove several lower rows (sheets) of roofing material from the roof of the house in order to use its beams to secure the rafter system and consolidate the overall covering.
It is necessary to decide in advance which roof will fit on top of the rafter system. If it is a soft roof or flexible shingles, then on top of the rafters a solid material is laid and fixed, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
If large canvases are fixed (roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to install waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
Roofing is laid on top of the waterproofing material, starting from the bottom of the rafter system and going up. If it is necessary to unite the roof, then when joining, the upper row of the roof of the extension is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main structure.
If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to the wall or the front of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

Prices for metal tiles

Metal tile

Insulation of the extension from the inside

If the premises are residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to the floor insulation.

Floor insulation on beams

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

On the floor beams, transverse logs from smaller bars are fixed.
It is recommended to arrange a rough floor on the logs, in this case it is better to lay the boards for it with a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat from the house will be blown out.

Further, the entire rough coating is coated with a fairly thick clay mortar, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
Mineral wool is tightly laid between the logs, expanded clay or slag is poured.

From above, the insulation is again closed with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor made of boards or plywood is laid on it.
A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be arranged under it.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

Mineral wool, laid between the logs fixed on a concrete base and then covered with boards or plywood.
One of the systems "warm floor" (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
Infrared film laid on a thin thermo-reflective substrate, and covered with a decorative coating;
Dry screed and gypsum fiber plates.

When the floors are insulated, you can move on to thermal insulation of the walls.

Frame walls

For internal wall insulation, mineral wool produced in mats is used. It is convenient to lay them between the frame bars. This work is simple and done quickly enough.
When the walls are closed with insulation, it is tightened with a vapor barrier film, fixing it on the bars with staples.
Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden clapboard, OSB or plywood, drywall or gypsum plasterboard - there are a lot of options, there is plenty to choose from.

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as a wall insulation, but its environmental and operational qualities are much worse than that of high-quality mineral wool.

Brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished with plaster or drywall from the inside, and insulation is carried out outside, but they do it in a different way.

Warming, if space permits, can be carried out in the same way as in a frame building, fixing bars on the walls and placing mineral wool between them, and then covering the structure with plasterboard plates. Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this covering.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If you are not confident in your capabilities, you feel a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this rather complex work to qualified craftsmen.