How to make a homemade machine for sharpening knives. How to make a machine for sharpening a planer knives? Homemade manual knife sharpening machine

The problem of stupid knives is not visible to many owners who are forced to constantly take the kitchen utensils to turn the masters. Meanwhile, it is much easier to solve it than it seems, because you can make a sharpener for knives with your own hands using the existing remedies. This will save money on purchasing already ready-made adaptation or professional workshops.

All about knife sharpeners

The easiest way to help the owners get rid of the hassle associated with the delivery of knives in the workshops is to acquire a grinding bar. However, this option can be optimal only if it is possible to choose a bar with "correct" abrasivity. To do this, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the main characteristics of the selected materials.

Choosing high-quality stone

The grinding bars, which are more often referred to as stones, have their own classification, familiarization with which will help choose the most suitable material. And if the owner succeeds in avoiding the most common mistakes, it can be used in the future both in an independent form and as the main component of the homemade grinding machine. So, distinguish the following grain grain:

Another distinctive feature of grinding bars is their color, because the darker the shade of the selected stone, the greater the level of abrasiveness it will have and vice versa, light tones indicate the shallow grain of the coating and its domestic destination. It is worth noting that it is from the selection of this element directly depends on the productivity of the sharpening made by their own hands.

It is recommended to pay attention to the quality of the material selected, each of which has its advantages and disadvantages. So, distinguish between the beam of natural origin from shale and corundum rocks, as well as a stone for sharpening diamond and ceramic types. Among the minuses of the first option, it is worth highlighting high graininess and rapid wear, due to the need to constantly make the surface of the stone for the formation of a special composition automatically increasing the abrasive qualities of fixtures.

That is why it is better to leave your choice on an artificial stone for sharpening, the length of which will exceed the length of the cutter blade, which largely facilitates the procedure for its processing. In addition, it is possible to choose a timber, the ribs of which will have varying degrees of abrasiveness, which will allow the procedure for the main and finishing sharpening at home.

There are several types of hand cleaners for knives with their own hands with a different design and a degree of complexity in the manufacture. Naturally, the simpler to the arrangement of such a home appliance, the less comfortable will be its use in everyday life and on the contrary, a large number of components allows you to create very convenient models of sharpeners, significantly facilitating the process of clearing the blade.

This moment should also be taken into account when determining the optimal design of the device. It is strongly recommended to take care of attention and such an important indicator as the scope of work, because if the owner needs to handle only a few kitchen cutters, it is unlikely that it makes sense to choose a professional sharpener for knives with drawings and three-dimensional modeling.

In order to make the sharpener for the knives with their own hands, you can take the following popular models as a basis:

Pretty popularity is particularly simple in manufacturing with their own hands sharpener for knives, the drawings with the size of which were developed by the famous Lanski firm. And it is this option that is optimal for independent design and further operation at home.

Independent manufacture of simple model

The principle of operation of the Lansky project device is reduced to the fact that the processing of a securely fixed blade is carried out under a strictly defined angle using interchangeable puffing stone nozzles with different graininess, resulting in a very sharp edge of the cutting element. The finished device costs about 1,500 thousand Russian rubles, but the simplicity of its manufacture and the minimum set of necessary parts inspires people's craftsmen to create more budget homemade counterparts from the presence of submitted means.

Step-by-step master class

The choice of necessary materials should be started after preparing the homemade sharpeners necessary for the manufacture of self-made sharpeners for knives of sizes and drawings. To maximize the relief of the task, it is recommended to use ready-made projects that can be found almost on any network resource. As an example, an assembly drawing can be brought by which you can independently make a grinding machine of Lanski type.

In order to assemble such a design, the master will have to prepare the following materials:

Metal rod, which can be used to make studs with marking M-6 non-standard length.
Electrode of any brand intended for use in electric welding work. It is from this element that the angular guides are performed after complete stripping from flux and burrs, which is carried out using a grainy emery.
Carbon stainless steel with an average thickness of 3-5 millimeters, from which the lighters are made easier to be made through holes. It is worth noting that it will take machine oil to perform such holes, to get rid of which the treatment with concentrated soap solution will help.
Metal angles of medium sizes (9 by 9 per 0.6 centimeters).

In addition, nuts and other fasteners will be needed, with the recommended marking of which you can find on the drawing presented. As for the processing of elements and their assembly into a single design, this procedure implies the implementation of the next algorithm of action:

There are often cases when certain imperfections of the homemade sharpener are detected during operation, although this is not a reason for the disorder, because you can always conduct a correction, while optimizing the operation of the device and adjusting it to individual needs.

There are several important rules of sharpening knives that need to be observed regardless of how this procedure will be implemented. These subtleties and nuances are meant:

Perpendicular placement of the blade in the direction of the grinding stone under the observance of an angle of 1/2 part of the sharpening value (the last condition is not mandatory for execution).
The sharpening angle should vary in the range from 20 to 25 degrees.
Start processing from the beginning of the blade, with the most stupid part of it. In this case, the edge can be painted in black so as not to perform in its limits when the blade is scratched.

In the process of turning on the edge part of the blade, the characteristic transverse grooves are formed. Their position relative to the baseline baseline should be perpendicular, because then it can be argued that the turning procedure was carried out correctly.

Currently there are several types: the machine for sharpening knives, for a hairdressing machine and others. This article refers to how to make a machine for sharpening the knives at home: detailed drawings with dimensions, photos and video (2-3 rollers) are presented.

Often, when sharpening the knives at home, households use abrasive parses. However, in order to use them in practice, we need the necessary skills and experience with them. After all, if the knife is sharpened at an irregular angle, then the blade remains stupid.

Layout location to the blade.

Before the direct manufacture of the machine you need to listen to the tips from the slavery-sharpeners.

When sharpening a knife, the master performs such actions:

Determines the angle between the workpiece of the blade and a storage. Moreover, for each model, the corners are different;

The knife is located at an angle of 90 degrees to the direction of the bar. Grooves that are formed by friction of the razor descent of the bar of the bar must be at 90 degrees to the knife line. The angle in a similar situation is equal to half of the sharpening;

As a rule, an angle is 25 degrees;

The locksmith begins processing from the beginning of the foot blade;

When adjusting the sharpening corner, the master paints the part of the foot blade by any marker. As a result, the locksmith controls the work area directly.

As a rule, after sharpening, the working blade has inhomogeneous deformations. Therefore, during self-processing, the "report point" should not be an acute part of the knife.

Choose blocks for sharpening knife

The main indicator of the bar - grain.

The bar is the main component that makes the blade thin and sharp. As a result, before choosing a design, you need to select the necessary shelters.

With independent sharpening knives, the households uses such types of strokes

which have a high grain. Using the use of such bars, the shape of a foot blade is corrected

having medium grain. With the help of such bars, the locksmith removes the grooves, which are formed during the primary processing of the no

pillow, which is covered with paste gom. In such a situation, the locksmith polips the blade.

When processing knives in the kitchen, you can use two types, with medium and high graininess. And in this case, you need to use the ramp.

Base

In the manufacture of a sharpening machine at home, you can use various parts. In particular, it is possible to take advantage of the laminated box plywood 12 mm thick, which was used to be used when creating radio engineering cases.

When building at home, the Machine Dochevtsov performs such actions:

Selects the foundation for a similar installation, which should weigh at least 5 kg. Otherwise, the cutting devices and tools will not be sharpened on the machine. Therefore, in the manufacture of such equipment, the apartment uses various steel corners with a size of 20x20 mm;

Further, the plywood cuts out the jigsaw 2 parts, which have a trapezoidal form, the base is 170 by 60 mm, and the height is 230 mm. When cutting, the locksmith makes the allowance of 0.7 mm on the sharpening of the ends: they are eventually obtained direct and fit on the markup;

Sets between the inclined walls on the sides of 3 parts - the inclined surface of the plywood of such dimensions of 230 x 150 mm.

In such a situation, the trapezoidal sides are on the side of the rectangular surface.

As a result, the foundation is wedge. In such a situation, the protopline surface is formed in the front of the size of 40 mm;

Then, along the side wall end, the locksmith marks 2 features. At the same time, it retreats half the plywood thickness;

Drills the ends of the inclined surface and for a while connects the details of the base;

Rear design, the locksmith connects the side walls using a 60x60 mm pilot, which is attached to the end two screws from 2 sides; - Makes in a panel of 10 mm gap.

In such a situation, it retreats 50 mm from the center - 25 mm from the edge. To preserve the vertical position, first will be drilled by a not thick drill with 2 edges, and then expands;

Then, two threaded fittings are screwed into the slit on top and bottom, and in the fittings - the stud with a size of 10 mm, the length of which is 250 mm.

If the threads with stud is adjusted by the lower hood.

Drive device

When making a device device, such actions are performed:

Removes a flat inclined part from the base, it refers to it and installs the fixation device on it, as well as the clamp of the device used;

Meashes ahead of 40 mm from the edge and at such a mark, with the help of the use of garden hacks, he cuts the groove, the depth of which is 2 mm;

Using the use of a shoe knife from the end of the board, 2 upper veneered layers chips. As a result, a sample is obtained, into which the mechanic inserts a 2 mm steel plate on the same level with a common surface;

The girlfriend has 2 slats from steel sizes 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. The machine tool connects them to a large end, which has equal edge indents, and makes 3 through slots by 6 mm.

With the help of bolts, the planks according to the groats made. In such a situation, the machine tool leaves the caps of the bolts from the side of the large top plate;

Then removes the metal defects of the weld in the form of a sprinkle and grinds the plate until it gives it a smooth surface;

Applies a small response plate to the edge sample, transfers the slot drill and fixes the girlfriend bolts.

Fixation device

The second important detail of the girlfriend is the clamping plank. It can be made of 2 parts.

M-shaped strip in size 150x180 mm, the width of the shelves of which is 50 mm (top);

The response plank in the form of a rectangle is 50x100 mm in size (bottom).

In the manufacture of a presses, the machine tool performs such actions:

Sets the lower bar on the far edge of the top;

The center makes 2 holes and retreats 25 mm from the edges of the detail, through the holes connect the details with two 8 mm bolts;

Twisted 8 mm bolts in 2 sides. In such a situation, a nearby bolt hat is located near the top plank;

Welds the caps of the bolts to the plates and grinds it in advance until the roundness is formation;

Yes, the inclined board retreats 40 mm from the edge and conducts a line with a flight;

Makes at the edges below and at the top of one 8 mm gap 25 mm;

Using the markup connects the edges of the gaps and the electrolybiz does cut off with the allowance. The file is expanding the groove to the width of 8.5 mm;

Bashes the planks by means of a groove, which is in the board the upper bolt tightens the nut and, thus, firmly creparates the bar.

Then tightens the connection with 2 nut;

When fitting the bottom plank (in the niche of the base) heats onto the second bolt with a barish nut.

Control the angle sharpening

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the locksmith performs such actions:

On the hairpin, which is located in the machine base, throws a large washer and tightens the nut.

The rod does not turn into a hoodo. It makes a block for adjusting a sharpening angle from a small carbolic bar, the dimensions of which are 20x40x80 mm.

15 mm from the wedge edge drill in 20 mm end with 2 sides, expands the slot to 9 mm, then inside the threads;

He retreats 50 mm from the axis of the new gap and drills another one in the flat part of the workpiece - 90 degrees to the previous one. Such a slit has a diameter of 14 mm. In such a situation, the locksmith strongly flashes the hole with the use of Rashpil round form;

Hours the block on the spire - sets the desired height of the eye without the use of fixing screws;

Blocking a block with 2 sides by hex nuts M10.

Using replaceable stations and carriage making

In the manufacture of a shaft carriage, the machine tool performs such actions:

Welded 30 cm threaded studs M10 with a smooth rod, the thickness of which is 10 mm;

Uses 2 solid bars 50x80 mm and the thickness of which is 20 mm. In all starring in the center and from above, 20 mm retreats from the edge, and then makes a 10 mm wide slot;

Hands on the barn with a barish nut, then a large washer and 2 bar, then a nut and washer;

Between the bars, rectangular sharpened stones clamp or makes several replaceable grinding stories.

As a broker base, the machine tool uses a rectangular tube from a profile or a piece of cornice whose width is 50 mm;

Sands the flat machine and cleanses it from fat, glue "super moment" glues strips of sandwich with graininess reaching 1,200 grit.

The sandpaper must have the basis of the fabric, and on 1 of the strokes, you need to stick the suede strip to apply to the polishing blades.

Simple homemade machine

The most common variant of the machine design is considered 2 pairs of wood ridges, which are bonded with rifts. Between such items, the machine holder sets the bar.

The main reason for the popularity of usemanual A homemade machine for sharpening various knives is its stability. During operation, the machine design does not move along the workbench.

When fixing the bar, the locksmith uses the supporting spacers that are between the wooden elements.

However, such a homemade machine has such disadvantages:

The master puts the blade to the stone manually. With long work it is difficult to keep track of the angle of sharpening;

In the manufacture of such installation, you must use the locking node. Machine design should be stable, so it must be hard to lock on the workbench;

In the process of work weakens the screed and the location of the bar is changed.

Another advantage of such a scheme-ease of manufacture. Such machinery is more often used when sharpening the knives for the fuganka and for the kitchen.

Trees from wood can be of different thickness. With independent manufacture of a simple sharpening machine, you can use various subframe components.

With primary study of all nuances of manufacture, it is necessary to see the thematic videos in which it is described in detail how to make a machine at home.

Reading time ≈ 10 minutes

To preserve the cutting properties of the knife, it is necessary to regularly told them, and the fixture for sharpening knives, made with your own hands, will help to contain these tools in proper condition. With a good sharp knife, cooking is significantly accelerating, freeing extra time for recreation. In this material, we will look at the manufacture of special devices for fast and high-quality sharpening knives.

With the factory manufacture of a knife, he is given the necessary sharpness. However, with its frequent use, it gradually loses its cutting properties. To make a knife again sharp, it is necessary to sharpen it, but it is not so easy to do it. Incorrect sharpening will not give the desired result, and time and strength will be wasted.

Manufacturers of knives, responding to the requests of their buyers, provided a number of grinding devices. But factory devices may not arrange owners of knives for various reasons. For example, the inappropriate sharpening angle or the high cost of the device. In this case, it is easier to make the sharpener with your own hands.

What you need for correct sharpening

The most important condition for obtaining an acute knife is the angle of its sharpening. It would seem that the less this parameter, the sharper will be our tool. This is true in part, since too thin cutting edge will be faster and fascinated.

The sharpening angle depends on the functional use of the knife:

Up to 15 degrees - razor and surgical instruments.
Up to 20 degrees - appliances for cutting vegetables, fillet or bread
Up to 25 degrees - knives of multidirectional functionality.
Up to 30 degrees - hunting and tourist knives.
Up to 40 degrees - cutting tools of special purpose. For example, axes or machete.

Outcome! The whole process is reduced to restoring the cutting ability tool, while maintaining the factory sharpening angle. A corner impairment can lead to a deterioration in the state of the knife.

Devices for sharpening

To sharpen the knife at a certain angle, without having special devices is very hard, and it is far from every professional. They can be purchased in specialized stores, or make it yourself. Below we will look at a few simple and affordable devices that allow to give the sharpness to most of the economic cutting tools.

Easy wooden bars

This method is considered the most simple in manufacturing and use. The grinding material is securely fixed under the desired angle, and the sharpening is carried out, holding a knife blade strictly vertically.

For the manufacture of the simplest device for sharpening a knife will be required:

Four identical wooden bars.
Bolts and nuts for connecting bars among themselves.
Grinding timber.
Transportation for determining the angle of sharpening.
Drill or other tool for drilling holes in wooden bars.

Bruks are connected in pairs, and through bolt bolts are drilled through them. Couples of bars are installed perpendicular to each other at an angle of 90 degrees. Between the parts of the design, a grinding stone is installed at the required angle extinctable by the transport. The nuts on the bolts are twisted, fixing the abrasive tightly.

The advantage of this device lies in the relative cheapness of the materials and ease of manufacture. Each person can cope with him even without relevant experience. The main disadvantages include the impossibility of smooth adjustment of the desired angle.

Grinding machine from mounting corners

This method of sharpening is considered the most convenient, however, additional efforts will be required to create such a fixture. It is based on the technology of the famous company Lansky Sharpeners. You can buy an original machine in branded stores, but its cost will be quite high. Below we will look at how to make a similar mechanism yourself.

To assemble the design, materials and tools will be required:

Two metal corners with dimensions of 90 × 90 mm and a thickness of 6 mm. They are the basis of the mechanism holding the knife blade.
Metal stud with a total length of at least 16 cm. It will be the basis for keeping a sharpening timber.
Two metal bar needed to fix abrasive.
Thin long rod or needle.
Pliers. Required for bend.
Saw for working with metal.
Tool for processing metal surfaces.
Nuts and bolts for fasteners and fixation.
Drill and set of metal drills.

By purchasing the necessary materials in a specialized store, you can start assembling the design. Without a drawing, it will be practically impossible to make the correct design, since it is necessary to comply with all sizes to obtain the correct angle of sharpening. To do this, use the drawing below.

In the metal corners, the holes are drilled according to the drawing applied above. The edge of the corner that will hold the blade is sophisticated by the steady. It is necessary in order for when sharpening a knife he was not a hindrance. All drives of drilling are processed to remove all possible traumatic places.

In two metal bars, a thread is cut under the diameter of the junction studs and the grooves in which the abrasive will be mounted. The clamp presented below will help quickly and without unnecessary difficulties to collect it.

Metal rod or needles with one of the sides bends the pliers. The sweened end is inserted into the hole of one of the bars. Its purpose is a guide when sharpening to specify the desired angle.

The principle of sharpening on this device:

The main advantages of this machine are compactness, simplicity and sharpening efficiency, the ability to choose and fix the angle. The device can be kept in hand, or install with a holder in vice. This allows you to take it with you to hike and use in the field.

Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting a limited set of angle parameters and the inability to establish an arbitrary value.

This video describes in detail how to make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands on Lansky system:

Blade fixing machine

This method is a modified version of the previous method. The knife is fixed on the base of the machine, and its owner itself adjusts the angle. At the same time, the compactness and mobility of the machine is lost. It can be used only at home.

For the manufacture of such a device, it will be necessary:

Sheet plywood or chipboard. You can use the details from the old furniture.
Stud with carving. She will perform the role of a tripod.
Solid wood bar.
Metal plate for fastening and hold knife blades on the base.
Fasteners consumables - nuts, bolts.

Build construction begins with the preparation of the base. From the wood we make the basis and legs. They are trimmed so that after their compounds, the base of the base was 20 degrees. A thread rave is installed in the lower part. For additional strength, all seats can be treated with a sealant or special adhesive composition.

An metallic plate is installed in the center of the base. Previously, it is necessary to drill the hole with the corresponding hole at the base of the machine. Through it, the plate will be pressed to the plate, and thus holds a knife blade.

It is recommended to purchase an aluminum plate, as it will not damage the blade with a strong compression. Also, for this purpose, rubber gaskets are suitable, which reduce the negative impact of metal on the metal and increasing the friction coefficient, which prevents the random displacement of the blade during the point.

The mounting mechanism for the emery stone is made from the remaining part of the hairpin and two wooden or metal bars. Brucks drill holes for the size of the studs, fasten with nuts on both sides. The fixation of the stone will be carried out by twisting the nuts. This process can be simplified by improving the spring holder from the handle side.

For setting an angle of sharpening, two wooden bar, bonded between themselves, will be required by a hinge mechanism. In one part, it is necessary to drill a vertical hole for the diameter of the hairpin. It will dressed in this part to the tripod, adjust the sharpening angle and at the same time be a turning mechanism along the horizontal axis.

In the second part, a horizontal hole is dried slightly larger diameter. In this hole, the hairpin with sandpaper will move, so it is necessary to completely exclude the possibility of jams.

Sharpening procedure:

The main advantages of this method are the ability to establish any sharpening angle and the fast replacement of the abrasive element. Such a homemade machine will help bring any blade to the perfect state.

The disadvantages include relative bulkiness and increased complexity of manufacture. For the manufacture of some details, special tools may be needed.

If you have any questions about installing and using this device, then this video will help to fully understand the essence of the process:

Select abrasive element

An important role in sharpening the blades plays a grinding stone. Most often, the system of digital designation of grains per unit of measurement is used to determine the rudeness of abrasive.

Depending on the functional necessity, the following gradation is distinguished:

Up to 250 - high rudeness. Not used for sharpening knives and other cutting tools.
Up to 350 - rough abrasive. It is used to correct physical defects or very stupid blades.
Up to 500 - medium abrasive. Apply to fit tools. It has small demand and is rarely used.
Up to 700 - small abrasive. The most used type of grinding tool in everyday mode. Allows you to sharpen the blade to acceptable sharpness.
Up to 1000 - ultra-small abrasive. Applicable to grinding surfaces and bringing already sharpened tools to perfect sharpness. Not effective for sharpening stupid knives.

Thus, if you wish with maximum efficiency to accurate your cutting tools, it is necessary to combine various types of abrasives. For example, particularly stupid knives are brought to an acceptable state with rude stones, then sharpened with small abrasive. In the completion of the process, grinding with ultra-small stones is carried out.

Newspaper also differs in its origin:

Natural. This includes a Japanese water stone, to work with which special skills and tremendous patience are needed.
Diamond. The most resistant wear and varied by rudeness. The most efficient and relatively cheap.
Ceramic. They are considered to be among the middle, between the stones of natural and diamond origin.
Artificial. They differ in their cheapness, but with frequent use they quickly come into disrepair.

How to do at home the machine for sharpening knives with your own hands and what materials / tools will help in this matter?

Knives in everyday life should always be sharp enough for a comfortable performance of their functions. When cooking and cutting products, they are constantly blinking, as a result, need sharpening.

To perform this work, many different machines and devices were invented, ranging from a conventional grinding bar to complex electrical grinding machines. Using a simple timber is quite inconvenient and takes a long period of time. There are manual machines to perform this work.

Manual knife sharpening devices

The grinding machines of the American company LANSKY, a little improved the usual sharpening of the timber. With the help of such a device, it is possible to quite accurately adjust the angle of working with the blade, from 17 to 30 degrees.

Device to pointed LANSKY while working

A similar machine for sharpening knives can make any master due to the simplicity of its design, as demonstrated in the video presented below.

Machines with fixing blades

These instruments make it much faster to put the knife, because it allows you to apply more effort. Moreover, the efficiency due to the presence of hard stop in the form of the table also rises several times.

SpitJack knife sharpening machine

As can be seen in the figure, in the machines of this type, the sharpening timber moves along a fixed blade at a pressed angle. The sharpening angle is adjusted by changing the height of the mounting of the bar. Among the domestic analogues of such machines, you can mention the production machine of Ermak.

Ermak sharpening device

Machines with fixed sharpening surfaces

In the devices of this type there is no possibility to adjust the sharpening angle. Most often, several different angles are already installed on this device. Applying such machines need to be simply carried out by the blade on a sharpening deepening.

This recess consists of two planes, one or two of which is a sharpening timber. So in order to apply the kitchen device simply to spend several times with a knife along the sharpening surface.

Mechanical Sharpener Chief's Choice

Electrical devices for knife points

You can also mention professional devices that are used by most chefs, and require only a few seconds so that the knife becomes the most sharp. These devices possess an electric motor that rotates the grinding canvas.

Such canvases are often made with diamond abrasives, and the engine power does not exceed 100-150 kW. Although, of course, there are more powerful staves for pointed blades that are used in production.

Make a fixture for sharpening with your own hands

To make the machine for sharpening the knives with their own hands, you will need: a piece of laminate, wooden rail, sandpaper, and two bots with lamb. Instead of laminate, you can use chipboard or fane.

For the manufacture of a knife holder, it is necessary to cut off part of the laminate. In order for the bar when sharpening did not touch the holder, it is necessary to consider its edge at an angle, with the help of emery.

We place and cut off the upper part of the vertical rack, which will rely on the bar when sharpening. The angle is chosen twice as fewer with which the knife will turn into, in our case it is 30 °. For kitchen appliances it is better to use 10-15 °. All will be needed 2 such details.
To correctly calculate the length of the base and the height of the racks, you need to roughly draw up the design and perform markup. It should be borne in mind that further installation of the transverse support will affect height. After that, cut off all the details, and we clean their edges.
Now we conceive and drill at the same time holes at the base, and the pressure plate, for bolts that fix the blade of the knife. When marking, it is important to withstand the distance of the holes from the edge of the base. It is necessary to ensure the universality of the installation, because knives have a different blade width. Fresh clamping plate bolts.
Vertical racks can be fastened with screws, but considering that the load on them is small, it is better to use a thermoclaim. In the same way, fasten the horizontal crossbar. At this stage, the sharpener is already ready, it remains only to make a bar.
For the manufacture of a bar, we cut a rack of a suitable length. On one edge, we glue the emery with the necessary abrasive size, in our case it is P1200. To improve the result, you can make several bars with different grainies. The R600 R2000 range is more optimal. To protect hands from cuts, it is advisable to fasten the handle on the upper side of the rail.
As a result, we get a functional and practical machine for dragging kitchen knives. When working, it rests on bolts to the edge of the table, which increases the comfort of use.

Video: How to make a sharpener for knives from a piece of laminate?

Greetings, self-timer!
Today I want to show you how from those materials that there is (or at least to be) in almost every workshop, make an excellent device for smooth sharpening knives.

Initially, the master wanted to buy a finished device for sharpening knives in China (namely in the online store AlExpress), but I thought why not try to make such a sharpener my own hands. Moreover, the prices for this product in Chinese friends are rather big.

For independent manufacture, the following materials and tools will be needed:
1. Ordinary board;
2. Emery paper;
3. Screwdriver;
4. Hammer;
5. Fat electrode 1 pc;
6. Electrolovik;
7. A piece of laminate;
8. Bottles and nuts;
9. Wooden handle;
10. Hex key;
11. Fluoroplastic or textolite (fiberglass).

Let's proceed to the manufacture of sharpeners.
To start, take an ordinary board and drank a piece of it. Then it is necessary to process the resulting wooden workpiece, namely to stall it with sandpaper.

It will serve as the basis of our homemade sharpening.
In size, it turns out to be 26 cm long, the blank turned into a width of 6.5 cm, and the height of the wooden base is 2 cm.

Also in this board it is necessary to do holes. In total, this detail of the future product will have 6 through holes. Drilling 2 holes for the rack itself (about it a little later). Next to drill another hole of a smaller diameter, as well as on the other side of the board, drill 3 more holes that will serve for fastening the pressure plate.

In the well-done holes inserting wrenches.

These wrenches can in the future can be put on the glue so that they do not fall out, but so far everything is so it seems to be quite dense.
Then we will make the manufacture of the guide rack. Her master made from a conventional thick electrode. It must be bent in half. Next, with the help of the hammer, the author beat off the entire top of the top and stuck it from the welding electrode. By the way, it is possible to grind and with the help of an ordinary screwdriver. To do this, we simply insert the electrode into the clamping cartridge of the screwdriver and keeps in the hand of sandpaper with grind the product.

At this stage, the workpiece (guide rack) is inserted from the electrode here in these two holes.
Insert not at right angles, but under a slight inclination. The angle of the guide is somewhere from 65 to 70 degrees.

It gets quite tightly, but also for greater reliability of our design, in the future it will be possible to plant a guide rack on epoxy glue, or on some other glue, or something else.

But the master may be mistaken and this is not fluoroplastic. Fluoroplast most often white and slippery some kind. Most likely it is a textolite or fiberglass. But in fact, it is not so important. The main thing is that this material is pretty hard and not erased.
From this piece (fluoroplast or not fluoroplast), the author saw a peculiar clamping plate. In it, he made holes, as well as small sweeps, so that the caps are a little in the depths of the plate.

Then this plate put on the wooden base made earlier. Fix with the help of cogs.

Scooters author took under the hex key. Also, the master made a small hole at the base of the future knife sharpener so that this key is always in this sharpener.

All this case is clamped and their (cogs) is actually not visible on the plate.
But here, the wizard did not do, since the sharpening part of the tool of this screw would not touch.

Next, from the same fluoroplast the author made such a plate.

In this record, there were 2 holes for the same hexagoned screw.
Next, the whole thing is made here and pressed with the help of a lamb.

Then the master made this such guide for sharpened stones.

The length of the guide is 57 cm. Its author made an ordinary steel bar. Also read it. And for one of the ends, I put this handle (seemingly from the Soviet old file).

You can also strengthen this connection putting a wooden handle from the file to the glue, but it is here and the very tightly gone, nothing falls out.

Regarding the attachment of the sharpened stones themselves. The author took a small piece of the clamp, cropped him and made holes. As a result, there were such a corner, two are the same.

And here I put a nut with a chopped thread and a clamping screw.

Also on the guide master put the spring, in order to change the sharpened stones, without unscrewing the nut with a clamping screw.

Sharpened stones themselves, and rather the foundation for these stones, the author made an ordinary piece of laminate. Just cutting it on the strips.

The width of the strip is obtained from us 2.5 cm, and the length is somewhere 20 cm.

On the pieces of laminate there are already ready-made pubs, actually where the corners of the guide part of the device will become.
The author then pasted sandpaper on a piece of laminate with a bilateral scotch and signed which one where. And, in fact, this is how it all happened:

It makes it easy to easily. Publishing the laminate in one corner of the guide, and the second corner with the help of the springs we press the grinding stone.

Everything. Nothing does not fall anywhere. Everything lies Rovenko and rather tight.
Let's continue to collect further our device. We insert the guide with the sharpening stone attached to it in a pre-prepared hole for it, and you can safely begin the process sharpening a knife.

The move is quite large due to the fact that the author took a small face on both sides.