Do-it-yourself metal workbench: drawings. Do-it-yourself locksmith workbench Do-it-yourself workbench from pipes

The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make details on inaccurate equipment for more accuracy. And it all started with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, and a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate work and improve its result.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make workbenches for themselves, on which, figuratively speaking, a tank can be smashed with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years is one of common mistakes development of workbenches of their own design.

The second is the neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “play” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal bed.

Third - repeat carpentry or locksmith workbenches; perhaps with some tweaks to your liking. Meanwhile, there are many designs of workbenches for home / amateur work of a different nature. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, on the contrary, universal, temporary from improvised materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper according to the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a general-purpose workbench or a universal workbench for special conditions of use - in a cramped garage, under carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for fine precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vise on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for installing them, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” prefabricated workbench

This is the wrong decision, not only because the wooden countertop deteriorates from carpentry. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more combustible. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oiled rags in production. The approach to designing the countertop (board, cover) of a universal workbench needs a different one based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - thin or rough, see below.

work bench

In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting worktop framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a "working bench" are given in fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.

The workbench dampens vibrations well; You can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, it is inconvenient to work with lengthy materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then garage and metalwork. Next, we will try to combine them into universal workbench and let's see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

The composition of the workbench

The workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin exactly) consists of:

Underwork (in carpentry workbenches), or bed (in metalwork), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
The apron on which the tool is hung. The apron is not a mandatory accessory of the workbench, it can hang on the wall or be replaced by a pedestal, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

A lid with a shelf is most often made at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, benchtop or table top. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In a locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, strands, and other defects) solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves at the same time as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.

The traditional construction of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joiner's shelf. This comes from the master covens of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / underbench that you should start developing your workbench no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

A stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel frame, not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never sag. Secondly, the tree perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops at a factory, are they? And the overall strength and stability of the frame home workbench coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality will quite provide.

The design of the wooden frame of the workbench made of boards 120x40 is shown on the left in fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertically down for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are mirrored. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the spikes of the racks and, outside, with corners.

If a beam of 150x50 or (180…200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. Load bearing capacity will rise to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a frame that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and locksmith workbench and. A box-shaped cover is placed on it under the carpentry (see below), and under the locksmith a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4 mm strips above the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

An all-wood workbench, without the need for welding to manufacture it, can be made according to the scheme on the trail. rice. The “chip” here is in the tabletop, glued from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then permissible load- 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

The opposite happens: metal more accessible than wood and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Drawers are galvanized. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.

Under a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench according to the scheme at the top right of a professional pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120 ... 150) x40.

Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x (30 ... 35) self-tapping screws, a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this design, the workbench will show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: under the carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adapted, as described below. The locksmith's vise is mounted on a wooden cushion, but is not fastened with a clamp. A collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice cushion from below, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vise.

For carpentry

The lid of the carpentry workbench, in contrast to the metalwork, is tightly attached to the workbench and is box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best mounting option for a non-separable workbench is steel corners and self-tapping screws. Podverstache can also be a steel bed from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench is arranged is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it in pos. B. The workbench (in this case, this is a separate device) is used to work with a long length. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trimming of the board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fasten it into the sockets with sunken cone-head bolts. The traditional construction of a carpentry underbench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

The cover of the carpentry workbench can be made cheaper by making a 2-layer, pos. B. Then quality boards solid wood will only be needed for a shelf. They lay it down, laying the boards with “peas” of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, tightly squeezing with a clamp or wrapping it with a cord; put on a pillow on the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through spikes (insert at pos. B) and is attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Vice for carpentry

All-wood carpentry vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some remarks are needed here.

First, you need to put 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). Second - if the nut is not custom-made and not purchased shaped, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use too thick a screw for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.

The nut of a home-made clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or more, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamp pad, so it is less likely that the nut will be torn off when clamping. But the thread will ugly lead away from welding, you can’t drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be tapped according to the full scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).

Note: the nut welded on the base must be allowed to rest for at least 2 hours before the thread passes, so that the residual deformations “subside”.

Vice and carpentry for a locksmith

The vise on the locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see the inset in the figure), so that as much as possible of the dynamic loads during metal processing falls vertically on the corner post. Location cross beams and intermediate uprights It is advisable to make a workbench with a stationary vise a little asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with a vise. The installation of the vice is also carried out starting from the corner:

A collet anchor is driven into the wooden corner post under the mounting bolt, and a high nut or threaded sleeve is welded into the metal post (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
If the fastener is welded, thread with taps, as in a homemade carpenter's vice nut, see above;
Put a vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark holes for fixing points 2, 3 and 4 in place;
The vise is removed and through holes 2, 3 and 4 are drilled;
Put a vise on the bolts 1, 2 and 3;
For mounting on bolt 4, put under the cover (tabletop) a strut U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to fix the jib, but it should rest from under the bottom against the upper frame (strap) of the bed, but not against the table top!
Attach the vise finally to the bolt 4.

Note: stationary power tools are also fixed in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the bottom surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; plugs fit well plastic bottles, they withstand tight landings many times.

Garage workbench

A workbench in the garage cannot be made optimal in terms of ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time, through trial and error, the width has been determined garage workbench at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and you can more or less work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) is unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench "responds" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

The scheme of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: cells of the frames of the cover and the lower shelf of the edge farthest from the corner different sizes. The accuracy of the installation of the crossbars is +/- 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the lower shelf are made of chipboard 32 mm thick and covered with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; replaced without difficulty.

Fastening to the walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Deepening into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and on the wall, on the left in fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood 10-12mm. Opening under the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling cutter” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the chips fall immediately onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench with a lifting table top in it, on the right in the figure; it will also fit into the house for fine work (electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on card hinges. For folding, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench-box may be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home, they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, artistic sawing out of plywood, etc. For fine fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and its accessories are given in fig. The resistance of the work surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small, with screw clamping.

More about plywood

In fact, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because. she calls back well. If, however, the pillow of the board of the locksmith's workbench is nevertheless made of plywood, then a frame (frame) must also be glued to its bottom on the PVA, also made of plywood, see fig. Then it is desirable to cover the upper (working side) first with unlined linoleum, and then lay steel on it.

To the rising shift

Another case where making a workbench out of plywood is justified is a student's workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not to beat for nothing, but to work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave students a bad instrument.

Workbenches in the country

When country house or other light wooden structure is still being built, there is no time for bench wisdom, at least something is needed on which simple carpentry work can be done. For such a case, hastily you can put together a carpentry workbench for giving from improvised materials, on the left in fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on the arrangement of the dacha, a mini-workbench is useful, on the right in fig. At minimum flow material and extremely simple design, it is stable enough for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, tk. the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will turn out to be collapsible and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a summer residence, inhabited permanently or all summer, with a master owner, by the way, you will have a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

Initially the workbench was used exclusively when processing wood, and its main task was to fix the workpiece for emphasis in the use of tools. To do this, they cut holes of various shapes along the edge of the tabletop, hammered wedges, inserted combs and chocks for emphasis or as guides. Such a workbench was called classical.

The simplest design of a workbench looks like this:

supporting frame on legs;
thick tabletop, with a powerful surface;
additional shelf under the tabletop for storing tools and fixtures;
shelves or drawers increasing storage space.

Interesting: Now popular computer game Minecraft, which invites players to create virtual wood workbench from A to Z, in any modification.

Improvement of tools, the appearance of electrical equipment affected workbench modifications. A manual processing new material - metal created completely the new kind desktop for locksmith work. So by appointment today workbenches are distinguished:

carpentry;
carpentry;
locksmith;
universal.

Do-it-yourself table in the garage - photo options:

The working table in the garage can be designed for a different number of employees, or zoning places.

In this case, workbenches are distinguished:

single;
double;
multi-seat.

The addition of the capabilities of a specialized workplace has given rise to its varieties:

folding;
mobile (on wheels);
folding wall-mounted workbench;
workbench cabinet (with sections for tool storage).

According to the material from which the work table for processing materials is made, there are:

wooden (made of durable wood);
metal (welded structures);
combined ( wooden base strengthened sheet metal on the table top, complete with combs made of metal, screws with threaded threads; the metal case is equipped wooden shelves and boxes).

Important: The metal parts of the workbench need an anti-corrosion coating, and the wooden parts need an antiseptic impregnation.

What does it look like homemade workbench for the garage, watch the video:

What kind of desktop does a car enthusiast need?

There is not much free space in the garage, so it is important to decide for what goals it will be installed:

minor repairs and minor plumbing work;
a permanent range of work related to home maintenance, or your hobby;
amount of work in car care for full release from the dependence of SRT.

In any case, the limited space will require a garage workbench:

compactness;
sustainability;
universality;
illumination;
performing a storage function;
safe connection to the power grid;
15 cm above the floor for high-quality cleaning.

Garage workbench dimensions(standard - 6x4) cannot exceed 60 cm in width, and 1.5 m in length. The height of the workbench in the garage is determined based on the height of the owner - to the middle of the hands in a standing position. The best choice will be - a metal structure, since most of the work in car maintenance is metalwork. For the greatest stability, it is recommended to support the supporting frame on 6 legs, or even 8.

Location selection- also the specifics of a garage workbench: after all, it should be convenient to work on it with a car standing in the room. And, at the same time, it is recommended to remove it from vehicle not less than 1 meter. With a purchased copy, all these subtleties are difficult to take into account.

We make a workbench for the garage with our own hands - drawings:

If you make a workbench with your own hands, then which one is wooden or metal?

Wooden - easier to manufacture, but ...

The choice of species again determines special purpose: faster and for simple operations - it will be acceptable and wooden frame from a powerful board (40x80mm) or timber (50x100), assembled into a rectangular structure according to standard dimensions, using self-tapping screws or nails. For structural reinforcement use wooden spacers between the legs (top and bottom). The lower ones (at 15 cm from the floor) can become the basis of a storage shelf.

The tabletop is assembled from a planed tongue-and-groove beech (oak) board or two sheets moisture resistant plywood 18mm thick, glued together and sheathed along the edge. For special strength the surface of the tabletop is upholstered with a metal sheet 5 mm thick, making a side from the side of the wall.

However, if you make a wooden workbench in the garage with your own hands, then this option has its drawbacks:

it is not designed for a large force effect;
it is difficult to place several necessary devices on it at once: for drilling, sharpening, heavy bench vise;
the wear of the frame made of wood is short-lived;
the tree deteriorates from spilled oils and paint, fills the pores and cracks with metal dust and shavings;
the risk of fire remains.

See how to make a workbench in the garage with your own hands - photo:

Metal desktop - the right choice

The advantages of a metal workbench for a motorist:

compactness of all structural elements with increased reliability;
the ability to withstand any force;
additional weight for stability;
the ability to take into account the features of the room, making the workbench mobile, folding, folding, shortened;
increased strength of the welded structure;
tabletops can be completely made of metal with a 3-sided rim;
the tabletop does not have sharp corners (for safety);
it is completed with 2 vise and clamping screw;
holes for clamps and stops are provided;
allows you to perform sawing and cutting of metal, turning and grinding;
the ability to fill the space under the countertop with any storage devices (shelves, drawers, organizers, grids);
secure fastening of drawers and shelves;
metal shavings do not clog into slots;
on it it is possible to carry out processing and wooden parts;
safety in conditions of fire risk;
saves the effort of the worker;
This table is easy to maintain.

For your information: A metal garage workbench is a hit in specialized stores, where only price and design improvement are of decisive importance.

But the craving for creativity leads along the path of one's own experience.

A useful video on how to make a do-it-yourself garage locksmith workbench:

How to make a metal workbench for a garage?

Algorithm:

Choose a place, taking into account all the requirements for placing a car in a garage.
Prepare a solid base for installation.
Take measurements of the installation site.
Create a sketch of your idea with all the details and improvements.
Prepare necessary material and tool.
Prepare structural elements.
Consider the technology of assembling and strengthening the frame.
Collect product.
Cover with a primer and a protective layer.
Conduct functionality and security testing.
Fix the necessary equipment on the tabletop.

Material required for work:

metal hollow profile (4mm) for legs;
metal equilateral corner (50x4mm) for drawers, prolegs, guides for shelves;
sheet metal with galvanization or stainless steel for countertops (5 or 2mm);
metal strips for edging;
grooved board (50x150mm) for a wooden tabletop with metal upholstery (as an option);
self-tapping screws;
primer and paint for metal.

Tool required for the job:

level, tape measure;
drill;
Bulgarian;
welding machine.

Assembly technology:

to assemble the desktop, an integral welded connection of all metal parts is used (sides as the bases of the table top, legs, jumpers, rectangles for stability on the ends of the legs);
horizontal and vertical elements for greater strength are equipped with permanent slopes;
the tabletop is made from a single sheet of metal or a plank shield upholstered with 5mm galvanized iron; in the first case, the tabletop is welded, in the second, it is screwed with screws to the collets and additional metal strips;
for the installation of shelves and boxes, a corner is welded to the racks as guides (boxes can be made of either metal or wood); the tree is treated with an antiseptic;
rectangles welded on the ends of the legs increase the stability of the workbench and allow it to be fixed to the floor.

Do-it-yourself metal workbench in the garage - photo drawings:

Last tip: A do-it-yourself (metal) garage work table should only be done if you are familiar with the art of welding and the safety rules for it in practice.

To work with wood or metal special adaptation - Workbench, on which the workpiece can be placed.

Every man dreams of having this in his home workshop. necessary device, but not everyone has the opportunity to purchase it at a retail outlet.

That is why today especially relevant question how to make a locksmith workbench do it yourself.

Making a workbench

Workbench by design recalls desk with boxes, so if in long years stored unnecessary table, then it can be taken as a basis.

Workbench is from myself:

Smooth and hard surface with markings for work;
Tool boxes;
Special fixtures and tools (vice, drill, grinder).

Advice! There are two types of workbenches: for woodworking and for working with metal products. Therefore, when choosing a material for a workbench, you should think for what purposes it will most often be used. From the further purpose of the workbench, it follows, and select the material - wood or metal.

If the change house is stored pruning corners, pipes, solid sheets of stainless steel or metal, then with the help of bolts and other connectors you can create a convenient and functional vise table. If, in addition to all this, the owner has a household welding machine, then the problem is practically solved. But if metal structures not available in stock, then you can assemble the base of the workbench from wood.

Drawings and parameters

Approximately" making a workbench is quite difficult, so you have to familiarize yourself with drawings designs. As a rule, neighbors in the country or acquaintances will definitely have recommendations such as DIY instructions, in which you can find the necessary drawings.

If this is not possible, then the Internet will provide various options designs and drawings of the desired product. Here you can also read algorithm steps to create a workbench at home.

Advice! Not every information on the Internet can be trusted, as quite often there are articles written by amateurs. In an effort to make their text unique, they omit some features and specific data, resulting in not a measured design, but a ridiculous product. Therefore, the information should be "filtered".

Parameters workbench should not exceed the free space in the garage, shed or home workshop. Should provide opportunity placing long and non-standard workpieces on it, the possibility of trimming them and performing other mechanical operations.

Advice! When designing a table, one should provide for the possibility of free space for work, since a workbench is not a decoration for a workshop, but necessary fixture.

Examining the drawings in detail workers structures, you can start making a workbench with your own hands.

About how to do it yourself garden shredder can be found out.

Do-it-yourself locksmith workbench

Action algorithm

Creation of the design of the workbench;
Creation and surface treatment;
Installation of a vice and other equipment;
Power supply.

When the blanks are prepared and processed, proceed to assembly table. Having pulled and fixed the base of the workbench design, you can begin to strengthen and process the working surface.

Important! The working surface of the workbench should not have roughness and irregularities. This is a smooth and durable plane, on which measurements and various mechanical operations will be carried out in the future, therefore processing with a grinder or sandpaper is recommended.

The surface thickness must be 25-30 mm that will allow you to perform a variety of operations. If used as a basis old table, then on its surface is fixed new a tabletop with a slight overlap and without cracks. lap necessary for the installation of a workbench and fasteners for power tools.

Installing a vise

Having prepared, processed and assembled the structure, we proceed to last stage– installation of a vice and other devices.

One of important questions will be the lighting of the workplace, so on the working surface you should allocate space for a table lamp.

Make a vise on one's own It is quite difficult, but possible, but it is better to purchase a ready-made version.

screw large sizes;
two pipe cuttings different diameters;
Flanges with nuts (M16 and M18);
electric welding.

Using electric welding, a flange with a nut is attached to one end of the pipe M1 6, on a smaller pipe, a flange with a nut M18.

Please note that the threaded rod (M16) must calmly rotate. All nuts that are installed on pipes are fixed by welding for strength.

Threaded the stud is installed in the cavity of the smaller pipe, while the fixed nut is inside and abuts against the flange. Between the flange and nuts should be installed intermediate washers that increase sliding.

The end of the threaded stud is screwed into the nut of the larger pipe - thus, the main working mechanism of the home vise is created. To it should be added pressure plates "lips" and "paws" and a home vice can be fasten to the workbench.

Advice! The working mechanism must be free of distortions, the nodes must slide easily, and all nuts must be firmly fixed by welding.

Having installed a vise and other devices on the workbench, you can begin effective and fruitful work in the household.

With a detailed algorithm of work and step by step instructions for the manufacture of a locksmith's workbench can be found in this video:

Now you can buy almost everything. The same applies to garage equipment - the simplest, small locksmith table will cost about 6,000 rubles. In principle, there are many models, and you can always choose something.

However, they have a very significant minus, which makes one think about abandoning the purchase and making a locksmith workbench with their own hands - dimensions and performance. According to them, the product you like may not be suitable for that segment of the workshop, barn or garage, which is reserved for its installation. How and from what to equip workplace home locksmith, we will consider.

Determine the location of the workbench

Since he will be assembled with his own hands, then it makes no sense to start a large-scale redevelopment, especially in a room that has been in operation for a long time and is always filled with something extremely necessary for the owner (and from the point of view of his wife, rubbish). V self-manufacturing a locksmith's workbench is attractive not only in terms of saving money, but also in the ability to draw up drawings of a workbench at your discretion, “adjusting” the dimensions to the room, and choosing the design that is most convenient for you. And not vice versa - move everything that is in the garage for the sake of installing one table.

On many thematic sites and forums, the emphasis is on the location of the electric / shield in the workshop. And the appropriate advice is to “attach” to it. Say, then you don’t have to pull a separate thread to the workbench. How relevant this is for a person who is able to make something with his own hands, the reader will decide for himself.

But the author believes that it is inappropriate to focus on this. Lay a couple of meters power cable- not a problem, and the cost of such a segment will not seem high. Especially since you can find something suitable in old stocks; if not their own, then a neighbor's.

Draw a diagram of the workbench (according to the free area in the home workshop)

Table type - with or without cabinets. First, how many do you need? With two, the workbench will turn out to be more massive, but its stability will be maximum. In addition, the number of shelves or drawers that can be mounted will increase.

Table top length

As a rule, a home-made workbench is assembled based on the work of 1 person - the owner himself. Optimal (but not mandatory) dimensions (in cm): length - 220, width - 75 (± 5), height - 0.85 - 0.9. Although, according to the last parameter, one should focus, first of all, on one's own growth.

The purpose of the workbench

A do-it-yourself table, although it is called a locksmith, is desirable to make it universal, because it is not known in advance what types of work will have to be done and what exactly to process on it. For home use - best option. Therefore, the legs, and especially the tabletop, must be reinforced. Moreover, a vise, e / emery, are usually placed on a workbench.

What to foresee:

Protective sides (from the sides). Then you don’t have to look for nuts and screws all over the floor, which is often what many of us periodically do. It is advisable to make the side of one of the sides shorter, and mount the table top so that it extends from this edge beyond the frame of the workbench. Very handy when you have to cut or cut something.
Back panel. The author did just that. For her, I took a sheet of thick getinaks, on which I placed all the necessary controls to turn on / off the line (automatic), lighting devices (switches). There are also sockets for connecting an electric / tool (electric / drill, angle grinder, and so on).

On a note

When mounted on a workbench, electric / grindstone ( drilling machine or other equipment) it is necessary to provide for the possibility of emergency stop using the pedal. The procedure for compiling such a scheme is a different topic, but the author considers it necessary to indicate this.

Prepare materials

Small range:

Pipe or corner - for the legs of the workbench. Regarding the latter, it should be noted that it is hardly worth taking less than 45 mm. Over time, such legs, as well as the frame, are deformed.
Sheet metal - on the countertop. Considering the shock loads that this part of the structure experiences during plumbing work, it is not advisable to take less than 4 mm.
or corner - for the frame.
Multilayer plywood, chipboard, OSV or something similar - for shelves. Although some can be made in metal. As a rule, they are located below and are intended for storing massive parts or blanks.

To the bottom of all legs should be welded "pyataki".
Assembly locksmith table can be carried out both by welding and by means of bolted connections. Both methods have both advantages and disadvantages. But from personal experience the author still recommends using a welding machine. Firstly, the design of the workbench will be much more reliable. Secondly, the master will save himself from the “pleasure” of long and tedious drilling thick metal and constantly engage in sharpening drills.
Even in the manufacture of a two-pedestal table, it is advisable to mount a bench. The interpretation of this term is different. The author means the whole metal shelf, which is located at the bottom of the workbench, under the tabletop, and serves not only to place heavy objects on it, but also to ensure greater stability of the structure.

The author considers it unnecessary to give any additional recommendations on the procedure for making a workbench. Explaining to a skilled person how to remove scale, grind corners, process a weld and similar elementary things is just a waste of time. If the general algorithm of actions is clear, then assembling a locksmith workbench with your own hands is not a problem.

The device and purpose of the workbench

Carpentry workbench is a desktop for manual and machining wooden products. The design and ergonomics of the classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and with maximum convenience perform basic carpentry operations: make wooden parts, assemble structures, cover them finishing compounds. Traditional carpenter's table designed to work with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. For processing longer pieces, a carpenter's workbench is used.

The carpentry table consists of a workbench (cover) and a workbench (bearing frame). Traditional workbench they are equipped with front (frontal) and rear (end) vices with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.

There are holes in the table top and wooden vise jaws. They are designed to install clamps and stops of various sections and heights.

Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, a part is placed between them and pressed with a screw vise mechanism. Thus, the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness wood detail, use a stop of the appropriate height, which will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.

How to choose the optimal workbench height?

The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. The optimal height of the table is selected based on the growth of the master. If, standing at the workbench, the palms freely rest against its lid, then the size is chosen correctly. Behind such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.

What materials are best to make a structure?

The carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to heavy loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are provided not only by the features of fasteners, but also the type of materials used.

Wood is traditionally used to make the base. conifers. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the workbench must be dry (moisture content of about 12%) without knots and other defects.

About making a bench cover

Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to purchase a ready-made glued shield, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the money saved.

When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the cover: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately with a workbench.

Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls

The design of the sidewall consists of two legs (B), tsargs and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through glued spike.

Figured cutouts of the tsarg and supports (detail A) are cut out on band saw followed by edge grinding.

In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, the legs are marked with sockets for the spikes of the prolegs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.

On the outside the legs are countersunk with a conical recess under the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.

Sawing spikes and eyelets

Spikes and lugs are made on a saw machine or by hand, guided by the basic principles for creating spiked joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a flawless fit of the connection. The blanks must have prepared flat surfaces and conform to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.

Sidewall assembly

Parts A and B are glued into a finished joint. After drying, the excess glue that has come through is carefully cleaned with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is polished.

A hole 19x38 mm is drilled in the center of the glued drawer side under the dowel (L) to fix the cover of the workbench.

Production of prolegs and underbench shelves

According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for prolegs (detail C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As in the case of the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw machine.

The connection of the prolegs with the sidewall is made detachable on a bolt screed with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and a depth of 32 mm is milled on the inside of the prolegs. A hole of 14x95 mm is drilled at the ends of the prolegs. At this stage, it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90 °.

The support strips (details D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws with an offset of 22 mm from the upper edges of the prongs.

According to the dimensions specified in the “General Detailing” drawing, the slats of the bench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersinked at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.

Mounting the bench cover

Non-through holes d19 mm and 32 mm deep for dowels (L) are drilled on the back side of the workbench.

With a d19 mm drill, through holes are made on the lid for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the cover. All holes are chamfered. The stops should easily enter the sockets and not play.

Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure neat holes at a perfectly right angle. It is not difficult to make such a guide yourself, having a piece of timber at hand.

Bench vise installation

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to buy a carpentry vice ready-made. In this case, you will receive the most reliable and functional design, and most importantly, get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.

Manufacturers of bench vises strive to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we take a look at the wiring diagram. standard designs. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of non-standard bench vise.

Vice jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are sawn from hardwood. After that, holes are drilled for the guide rods, lead screw, sockets for bench supports and holes for fixing screws.

The rear jaws of the front and rear vise are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.

Wooden linings (detail K) are cut to fit the vise. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.

Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces of masking tape and a soft pencil.