What material make a carpentry workbench. Making a universal workshop for workshop with their own hands. Manufacturing a building workbench

1. glue from several layers front timber BUT and Ostroit to final sizes (Fig. 1and 1a).Then throw in it the grooves of 19 width 19 and a depth of 41 mm (Fig. 1a, photo aand IN).

Short advice! Do not glue the parts of the milling device- template, and you can only cover them with screws. The template will be required to sample the grooves in the rear vice block, which is wider than the front axle cover.

From a pair of trimming of a thick board and a thickness of 12 mm thick, assemble a simple device-template for milling at an angle of 2 ° grooves that will be holes for the vertical stops.

Milling grooves in the front timber with a 12 mm spiral cutter and a 19-millimeter copier sleeve, remove the material in a little, gradually increasing the depth.

2. Drink the lining IN And glue it to the front bruster, aligning the right ends of the details. Carefully remove the extruded excess glue.

3. According to the template, which is usually supplied complete with front visits, mark and drill holes for the rod (Photo C, Fig. 1).

Position the mounting pattern so that the holes for the vice are not intersected with the holes for the vertical stops in the anterior bar A / B. Note the civam centers.

Note. In this project, the front and rear vice are used.LEE Valley.. They are characterized by good quality manufacturing, smooth operation and shipped with detailed installation instructions.

4. Now make covers FROM, bottom linings for the front D. and rear E. Thish, spacer F. and rear bar G.. Enclose overlays, rear bar, spacer and front timing to lid (Fig. 1).

5. Make left and right tips N, I (Fig. 2).Form along one verge of tips 36 widths and a depth of 57 mm and drill 12 mm holes.

Short advice! To quickly make clean and neat tongues, remove most of the material with a groove disk, and then clean the walls and bottom with a milling table.

6. Overweight on the ends of the cover A-G. On both sides, the folder 57 width and a depth of 36 mm (PhotoD.), to form ridges that are inserted into tips N, I.

Use the tip as a guide for folding folding on the lid. Be careful not to touch the milling front.

7. Put on the crest left tip N., moved it to the front pad IN. Right tip I. Align with the front edge of the shield FROM. Follow the centers of 12 mm holes (photo E).Remove the tips and with the help of sewing other centers, shifting them by 1.5 mm closer to the ridges (PhotoF.). Spend parallel lines, retreating 6 mm in both sides of each tag left by the selection so that the distance between the lines was equal to 12 mm.

Use the tip of the 12 mm drill to transfer the holes of the holes in the tips H, I on the ridges of the lid.

Slide the centers of the holes by 1.5 mm closer to the ridge shoulders, so that, drive the waders, tightly pull the tip with the lid.

Thin round rashpil treat all holes other than the first. Do not go for parallel lines so that the details are shied tight.

8. Drill on the markup of 12-mm holes. Then, starting from the second hole (counting from the front edge of the lid), increase it by 2 mm in both directions, without leaving parallel lines so that it turned out to be a 16 mm long. Do the same with other holes, increasing the length of each of the following 1.5 mm in both directions (PhotoG., Fig. 2).This will allow the lid to change your width during seasonal moisture fluctuations. In the right tip I. Make cutout 57 × 165 mm Throwing rack F. and the end of the bottom lining E..

9. Put the tips N, I. On the ridges and secure 12-millimeter solid wood wets, drive them into the holes without the use of glue. Screw the protruding ends of the Vedo dust with the upper and lower edges of the tips.

Short advice! To facilitate the mounting of the tips, take the woofer sewage and make a narrowing at their ends.

Add vice

1. Collect the frame from trimming, which will limit the milling zone of the milling displacement when sowing the recess in the bottom lining D. For front vice (Photo H).Follow the recess so that it is located at a distance of 70 mm from the front edge of the lid, and its middle coincided with the center of the large hole for the screw of the vice.

Use a 12-mm mill with an upward spiral to select a yield of 57x305x406 mm for the tisted mechanism. Move the cutter that supports the mill.

Separate the rear plate to insert the tisk mechanism into place. Then install it again, and the operation can be considered completed.

2. Drink a block J. For the mobile sponge of the front vice. Drill in the hole block by placing them on the template that was used earlier, placing it so that the left end of the block was aligned with the left edge of the lid.

3. Splind along the ends of the moving sponge J. Roundings with a ledge and attach the front vice to the lid, following the instructions instructions (Photo I).Set the footage knob to place.

4. Drink at the specified size block TO For rear vice. Alterate the milling device used earlier and form in the block of the groove width 19 and a depth of 41 mm at an angle (Fig. 3and 3a).

5. Drink the lining L. For rear vice. Drill in the block TO 10 mm end-to-end holes with 25-millimeter cekeets (Fig. 3and Per).By pressing the lining of the clamps to the block, check the centers of the holes with a 10-mm drill through the block holes. Then drill in marked openings with a diameter of 16 mm. Note. Our method is slightly different from the instructions described in the instruction and requires the use of washers and plugs that are not included in the tisch package. Acting so, we hid the heads of the bolts under the plug plugs, and did not leave them in sight.

6. Stick the lining L. To block K (photoJ.) and carefully remove all the squeezed glue from the holes for the vertical stops.

Similarly, align the holes of the block to with the holes of the lining L. In order not to spend a lot of time to remove excess glue, apply it evenly with a thin layer.

7. Attach the collected block K / L. Together with the mechanism of the rear vice in place, following the instructions instructions. Close the heads of the bolts cork plugs and set the footage knob.

Make the vertical stops

1. Drink on the dimensions of the dimensions specified in the "list of materials" M. and 17 springs N.. For the stops, we chose the Wood Cherry, as it retains the required strength for a long time, does not leave dents on the details, and its color contrasts well with white oak wood from which the workbench cover is made. For springs, a dense and elastic wood is suitable, for example maple.

2. To predict the desired form, make copies of the template, increasing them by 2 times. Then glue the springs to the stops. Check how the assembled stops are inserted into the holes, and pon them, if required. They should be removed and bleed without much effort and at the same time stay at the right height. To learn more about them, read the article "Vistak Stop", published in this issue of the magazine.

Go to the ground

Note. Before proceeding with the manufacture, measure and write down the size of the recess on the bottom of the lid. The base of the cabinet should be tightly inserted into this deepening. If it fails to insert, it will be necessary to adjust its size to the deepening or expand the edges of the recess for the final assembly.

1. According to the "list of materials", cut the shelves ABOUTPartitions R and edge lining Q, R.. Stick overlays to shelves and partitions (Fig. 4).Then glue the shelves O / Q. To partitions P / R. And further consolidate with screws.

2. Drinking baseboards S. and Tsargi. T., Stick them to the assembly of shelves with O-R partitions.

3. Of the 19-millimeter plywood, veneered veneer cherry, drink the side and rear walls U, V.. First, glue the side walls into place, securing additionally with screws, then add the rear wall using only glue for its attachment.

4. Note. Check the size of the assembled body before drinking the crossbar, racks and lining and make sure that their length specified in the "Material List" corresponds to your project. We advise you to cut the detailsW.— GG. with a little battery in length, and then adjust them at the place.

Drink up the top and bottom crossbars W, X.as well as racks Y. (Fig. 5).Adjust the top and bottom crossbars to the base, then add the racks.

5. Now drink the rear crossbars Z, AA, Stands BB, Mingwithonia SS and side crossbars DD, It. Stick the bottom rear crossbar AA and furniture to the rear wall V. (photo K).After that, glue the back upper crossbar and racks to the place, then the side lower crossbars with the middle arms to the side walls and, finally, the upper side crossbars and racks.

Use a couple of thick bars with a flat face to make it tightly pressing the CC to the rear wall.

6. At the corners of the body, the 10 mm chassis, ending with the stacks with racks (Fig. 6).

Before connecting the baseboards, you need to cut off the squeaks on the rails glued on top. After that, you can proceed to milling roundings.

7. From 19-mm cherry boards, drink side, front and rear baseboards FF, GG. Specified length with a switch of about 3 mm wide. Then sill from the top edge of each baseline Rake a cross section of 19 × 19 mm and mark the items to install them in the future. Finally, make the connections "Lastochka Tail" to bind the baseboards (Fig. 6a).Note. If, instead of Shipov "Lastochka Tail", you decided to make simple connections of Pa Us, drink the baseboards of the specified width (without switch) and do not discharge from them on top of the rail.

8. Will sciats on the Us only on the rails for lateral baseboards, not shortening them. Stick each of them to the corresponding part, from which it was spill. Then glue the rails without bevels to the front and rear baseboards. Make the SCOS only on the top of the front and rear baseboards so that they are tightly connected with side baseboards. The mount of the bevel should be near the line of markup, and the exact interface of parts can be done fit, removing the material in little (PhotoL.). Then disconnect a 19-mm rounding with a 3-millimeter ledge along the top edge of all baseboards.

9. Enclose baseboards to the base. It is possible that they will have to use screws or nails for their attachment, if instead of the compounds "Lastochka Tail" you made at their ends of the squeezes.

Add doors

1. Drink the crossbars NN., Stands II. And Filey JJ. specified sizes (Fig. 7).

2. Make a spuns of 6 width and a depth of 12 mm in the center of the inner edges of all racks and the crossbar. Then create spikes of 6 thickness and 12 mm long at the ends of the crossbar.

3. Collect the doors, gluing together racks, crossbars and panels. When the glue dries, check how the doors are inserted into the opening of the base, and ponse them if required. Then throw out the folder 5 × 5 mm on the upper and lower edges of the door on the inside, as well as the folder 10 × 5 mm on the racks where there is no loops. These folds leave enough space between the doors and the body to install magnetic latches.

Attach the doors to the housing with overhead loops and set the magnetic latches.

Lower the cover on the base

1. Invite the three buddies of a strong physique, so that with their help raise a heavy melted cover and put on the base. It is not necessary to fix it - due to the massiveness and an accurate fit, it is well held in place.

2. By installing a new workshop in the workshop, immediately proceed to the next project, and now you can get even more pleasure from the time spent in the workshop!

The home master must necessarily have a comfortable place, it is a guarantee of not only the convenience and speed of work, but also safety. High-quality vestipes of European production stand as industrial equipment, Chinese and handicraft builds - do not differ reliability. However, you can make a good workbench with your own hands, because, in fact, it is a table, equipped with various fasteners, stops and a place for storing the tool.

Project workbench

The height of the workbench depends on the growth of its host, it should be conveniently standing without having to perform the basic operations. For medium height, this is usually 70-90 cm. The workbench configuration and the necessary attachments and fixtures depend on which operations are more often executed on it, but to provide several stops and a pair of screws or clamps worth (). It is also necessary to take into account what hand is the master of the workbench.

Workbench scheme - first option

The width and length of the workshop depend on the area of \u200b\u200bthe workshop, it is convenient if the length of the workbench is at least 2 meters, and the width is 80-100 cm. It is convenient if the boxes or stands are mounted for storing tools and consumables.

Designing workbench, you need to consider whether it will be stationary in the workshop or constantly gather and understand. In the second case, the design will be reasonably eased due to the material of a lesser thickness. In the collapsible workbench, you can make a rejected countertop, and you can also provide folding legs.

Place your workbench is better at the window, additional local lighting is also necessary. Immediately close to the workbench you need to provide several electrical outlets for the equipment. All wires near the working area must be enclosed in a box or corrugated pipe.

Selection of materials

The optimal material for the workbench is a planed timber, from which a frame frame and legs will be made. For the legs, you can take it with a size of 100 * 70 mm, and for jumpers - 100 * 50 mm. The countertop can be made from smooth 5 cm thick boards. It can also be made of solid canvas, for example, an old deaf door or a laminated chipboard with a sufficiently durable coating. For the workbench it is better to choose solid wood, beech, oak or maple is preferable. Thicker bars and boards will make the workbench is harder and more stable, and it will be more convenient to work on it.

Fasteners for the manufacture of the workbench are selected according to whether it will be prefabricated or collapsible. Self-tapping screws, nails and nuts with bolts.

Before building a workbench, you need to choose a vice. Conveniently if there are 2 pieces - to the right side and left in front. In the first, you can fix long boards, and secondly - clamping short parts. The most universal width of the sponges is 175 mm.

Scheme of the second version of the workbench

Construct workbench. Base

Making workbench occurs in 2 stages: assembly base and installation. At each stage and at each operation, you need to control the size of the parts and the flattering of their installation using a level.

The base is a frame from the bars bonded in such a way that the design is obtained as hard as possible. To do this, there is a horizontal jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, in length, provide for the king. The jumpers and the king are placed in 40-50 cm from the floor, then you can install the tool storage shelves on them. Combine bars for the base with the help of a spike-groove connecting it. In places where it is impossible, self-used screws. If it is assumed that the workbench will be able to combine parts of the support frame using metal corners. Usually, the grooves and spikes are first prepared, according to the drawing, and then collect the entire design immediately, sinking the location of the jointed glue and fixing their clamps.

A good option for a stationary workbench, if one or more parts of the support frame can be screwed to the wall, so the design will be even more reliable. It is possible to increase strength using diagonal jumpers or wedge-shaped inserts between the legs and the upper part of the frame from the same bar that are attached with self-draws. The narrow ends of the top of the frame also need to be connected by the jumper.

Countertop and Useful Fixtures

If the countertop is constructed from individual boards, then they need to ridly drive together to each other so that the garbage does not get into the gap. The size of the countertops should be a few centimeters more bases to work comfortably and clean it. Boards are nailed or screwed to 3 bars located across the boards from the back side of the table top. Based on the grooves for these bars.

The boards from the boards are thoroughly grinding several times and is covered with a protective solution, preferably with oil or olphoi to avoid injuries from pinch with further operation. To the base, the countertop is screwed to metal corners.

Through the finished tabletop are attached by vice, under them we need to provide a deepening in the end of the table, so that the vertical plate formed one plane with it. From the bottom side of the workshop, the plywood is also required. Thish lips should set up at one level with the surface of the table top. Applying vice, mark the place under the holes and fasten them with bolts and nuts (suitable M12). Holes under the heads of the bolts must be professional enough so that they completely drowned in them. Visits should not be located in the very corner so as not to trim it with a large load.

In addition to the vice on the workbench, it is necessary to foresee. You can fix it ready, drilled in the tabletop opening of the desired diameter, or make them yourself. It is not worth using bolts or round begins instead of stops, as the bolts can damage the workpieces processed by their head, and the parts are not made enough to fix the parts.

It is easier to make rectangular stops, or slices, which are adjustable in height under different parts, and securely fix them. Under them you need to do the holes in the tabletop or increase it with the help of a suitable thickness of the suitable thickness screwed to its edge, and the closed with a plank on the other side. The nests must be located apart from the distance of half from the progress of the vice, so that you can fix any workpiece.

The rods themselves are cut from solid wood, you can make them with a "spring", which is screwed to the base, and you can simply rectangle. Rectangular stops can be slightly expanded up, then they will be fixed in the nests.

The construction of a joiner's workbench with their own hands is a difficult task, but then this workplace will be able to serve a host for a long time, to face useful details and devices and adjust to the specific needs of each wizard.

Country construction, registration of the plot and minor repair work require special skills and time. But it is also necessary to have a high-quality tool and accessories that will help in these processes. It will not be superfluous, with the presence of which any construction will go much faster.

A joinery or plumbing workbench is a special table for works with wood or metal. They have a solid and durable surface of a large area and drawers for tools. Additional accessories can be installed for work - drill, vice, circular saw, small cutter, other.

Today we will try to make a joiner's workbench with their own hands (he can serve both locksmith), to collect him correctly and equip it.

As usual, the most sustained our product and even use old interior items and remedies.

Almost any old table can serve as the basis for the production of workbench. It can be a dining table or a table-stand, which you no longer need in the country. It is necessary only to pre-inspect the piece of furniture so that it is not too old.

Table preparation

Initially, you will need to prepare the table - tighten all bolts and nuts, screws and other mounts. It will be necessary to inspect the carrier frame for cracks and, if any, put metal or wooden lining to ensure the strength of the parts.

After, carry out a slight putty, processing wood protection by means or just painting with a special protective varnish.

When we have a slightly updated and durable table, you can start.

Build product

As usual, the surface of the workbench is a robust surface for a wide variety of works. Therefore, to install the countertops, we must choose high-quality boards with a thickness of at least 20-30 mm. We consistently install them on the existing surface of the table, tighten with self-draws, trying to leave as few cracks as possible.

The new countertop must be a little more old, have a screame on each side at 15-20 cm so that you can easily and reliably hang equipment. In places of installation of electrical equipment for the workbench, you can put a double layer of the board so that the base is stronger.

Tool storage box

Now we should take care of the boxes in which we will store the tool, fasteners, various details. It must be durable wood boxes on convenient systems, with solid fittings. How to collect wood boxes and work with various forms, we already know, and therefore we will not deepen into details. It is worth noting that each element of the box should be processed by protective impregnation.

Boxes must be several, for example, 2-3 on each side. It is necessary to estimate the placement and mark the markup so that the installed fragments do not interfere comfortably work at the finished workbench.

Equipment installation

Classic equipment in this case are considered vice and wooden clamps. In addition, it is possible to establish a stationary drill of high power, a milling element, some turning equipment. But most often the workbench is built as the usual plane for comfortable work, the equipment is purchased separately. For giving enough drill, grinder, circular.

Installation of equipment should be well thought out in terms of convenience and safety, all attachments are checked and securely tightened. If the equipment involves connecting to an electrical network, you should correctly calculate the power, the cross section of the wires, the connection itself correctly. It is possible for this work it will be necessary to use the help of a qualified electrician.

We combine the joiner and plumbing workbench

In the country, we have not so much time, places and means to make separate two workbenches for work, although it can be needed both carpenter and a plumbing workbench. To reduce costs and loss of time, and also do not take a lot of space in the garage or shed by installing two vertical tables, we offer to make two at once.

For the production of a practical workplace, we will need to increase the surface area slightly. It is possible that it will take to strengthen the foundation by additional parts of the framework, which will be based on the tabletop.

When the working part is ready, it should be covered with thin sheet stainless steel. It can be secured by self-drawers or special rivets. It is desirable to make a coating not only the upper plane, but also the end items, which, by the way, can be done throughout the perimeter.

Workbench for giving with their own hands from scratch

Well, when there is from what to start, but it's a little more difficult if there is no old table for the workbench. But it is not worth upset, because from scratch you can make a workplace strictly under your requirements, higher strength and exactly the size and shape that you need. So, proceed.

Materials for production

Before starting work, prepare materials:

Wooden timber 50x100 mm for the production of support jumpers, reference support of the table top;
Wooden timber 80x100 mm for reference block and frame bases;
Wooden timber 50x150 mm for installing end parts;
Plate board 50x200 mm for assembling countertops;
Stainless steel sheet for tabletop part coating:
Bolts, self-tapping screws and rivets for assembly;
Glue for intermediate fasteners, protective impregnation;
Plastic or rubberized overlays on the support block.

Tool for manufacturing Standard - Hacksaw for sawing wood, hammer and mall, drill and drill, chisel, additional tools, if you prepare special details.

Scheme of production of workbench

Additionally, they decided to provide you with the production scheme of the standard option, perhaps it will help you collect you a high-quality "piece of furniture" for minor work at the cottage.

Joiner's workshop: step-by-step instruction

First, the size of the vertical table should be determined - its working surface and the reference part. For example, we chose the surface size of 80x160 cm, and the size of each reference part is 60 cm. The height of the workbench is 85 cm is a common size, so it is not necessary to be confused with the height of individual parts of the frame.
Secondly, to prepare a drawing (perhaps, take something from the scheme above).
Thirdly, put sizes, place and cut the material.

You can start with the assembly of the countertops, for the production of which we will need to create a housing around the perimeter (necessarily taking into account the science on each side). The housing will need to strengthen the wooden bar, thereby creating increased strength.

We set the support part of the frame, and only then the worktop.

For connections, we recommend choosing bolts and nuts that will forever fasten wooden parts with a through passage and clima. Also, you can use carbon black for greater reliability and strength of each connection, to apply it to the glued parts and only after that tighten the bolts.

While working, follow the compliance of the size and observance of levels, as in further processes associated with the workbench, such errors can cost time, forces and nerves. Only on high-quality workbench you can work with pleasure.

Equipment of the workbench, preparation for work

In order not to repeat, we propose to pay attention to the previous sections, since the new vertical table can be equipped and equipped in the same way as the old furniture-based.

Only the question remains in the installation and preparation for work. You will need to install the finished product on a flat surface, in the indoor room. All materials are desirable to protect with special impregnations, put the lining block or legs of the workbench. Now only the equipment that we have already spoken earlier and interesting projects from you.

How to independently make a workbench for the cottage (video)

Share your ideas about the production of workbenches for dachas, as well as interesting thoughts about crafts that can be done with their help. For our part, we propose to consider useful articles on the site about the construction of rabbits, drinking beds for birds, feeders and houses for protein, birdhouses and other trifles, in the process of creating a workbench will be useful.

The general principle of the development of materials processing materials from prehistoric times to the present day - how to do on inaccurate equipment parts for more accurate. And everything began from the workbench, its sobrases are found in the excavations of the settlement of the Stone Age. Build a workbench, and full, it is quite possible, it is quite possible, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplifies, make it easier to work and improve its result.

Three mistakes

Lovers, sometimes, judging by their designs, are very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make themselves workbenches, in which, figuratively speaking, you can spread the tank with a sledgehammer. Time and labor on them goes a lot, and the money is hardly less than a good corporate amateur workbench. Repeating in the design for its own use of industrial prototypes intended for intensive work in 3 shifts and static loads more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years - one of the typical errors of the development of the workbenches of its own design.

The second is disregarding vibrations. Not clearly felt by the "game" or "return", but a shallow shiver, significantly imperative work and reduces its quality. Especially strongly vibrations affect the workbenches on the metal bed.

Third - repeat carpentry or plumbing workbenches; Perhaps with some modifications under your hand. Meanwhile, the designs of workbenches for domestic / amateur works of a different character. There are workbenches more or less specialized or, on the contrary, universal, temporary from the primary materials, etc.

We will figure it out in this article how to make a workbench, taking into account these errors, First, simply and cheaper in a circle of the needs and / or passions of Cleells. Secondly, how to make a general purpose workbench or universal for special conditions of use - in a close garage, under the carpentry at a construction site from a girlfriend, home for shallow accurate work, children's.

About universal workbenks

Among the corporate products, sometimes very awesome, you can meet the "universal" workbenches in the form of a carbon monoxide with a lid without a tray, complete plumbing vice on a wooden pillow, and a clamp for their installation, like the fact that in the photo:

"Universal" workbench factory manufacture

This incorrect decision is not only because the wooden table top from the joinery work will deteriorate. The main thing is that there is bad - technological fluids used in the processing of metal - oil, kerosene, etc. impregnated with them becomes much more fuel. Self-ignition; Remember, in production it is strictly forbidden to accumulate the washed rag. The approach to the design of the countertops (boards, covers) of the universal workbench is needed different on the basis of what operation it is mainly used - thin or coarse, see below.

Working bench

In the West are widespread amateur / home workbenches with a set tabletop framed by a side. Drawings such a "working bench" are given in Fig. Under the locking, the cover is covered with a sheet with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm and put vice on the pillow.

The workbench bench well produces vibrations; You can make it from pine or ate. But the design is complex, with long materials and furniture to work on such a workbench is uncomfortable. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carbuilder workbench, then garage and plumbing. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what you can think of special needs on this basis.

The composition of the workbench

The workbench "of our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to accurately establish its origin) consists of:

An exposure (in carpentry vestipers), or beds (in plumbing), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and ergonomics of the workplace.
Covers, boxed or in the form of a tray that gives the workspace necessary hardness.
Shelves; Perhaps with a tray, nests, and the stops on which operating operations are made.
Apron on which the tool hangs. The apron is not a mandatory workbay of the workbench, it can hang on the wall or be replaced by a table, rack, etc.

Note: The size of the workbench in the height approx. 900 mm. Length and width are selected at the place of installation and the nature of the work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm acc.

The cover with the shelf is most often performed at the same time, in detriment, and is called a lid, a vertical board or a worktop. To clean the vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis of (bed, substrate) from the tree. In a plumbing workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its total strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and the contact of the techniques. In the joiner's workbench, the bed of high-quality (without bitch, swees, and other defects) of solid fine-layer wood (oak, beech, housing, elm, walnut) serves simultaneously with a shelf, in the workbench for the house for its simplification not to the detriment of quality possible and 2 -Lelar design, see below.

The traditional exposure design, on the contrary, is collapsing from the same tree as the regiment of the joiner. It comes from the Masters-Shabashnikov of the Past, transported their equipment from the customer to the customer on the cart. It is from the bed / exposure and should begin to develop your workbench is not worse, but easier traditional.

Stanna: Metal or tree?

A stationary wooden workbench has an advantage of not only at a smaller cost and labor intensity. Tree, first, not plastic. The workbench on a wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used is a weathered and impregnated, it will never come. Secondly, the tree perfectly extinguishes vibrations. Foundations of your buildings after all, not reinforced vibrating absorbing, like workshops at the factory? And the overall strength and sustainability of the home workbenka bed completely will ensure coniferous business wood of ordinary quality.

The design of the wooden window of the workbench from the board 120x40 is shown on the left in the figure. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; Dynamic vertical down for 1 C - 600 kgf. The angular racks (legs) are assembled on the 25x70 zigzag screws (snake) with an indentation from the edge 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Bilateral fastening; Snakes on the other side of the package are conducted in a mirror reflection. Intermediate support beams are mounted with steel corners on self-drawing; Edge - pairs of self-tapping spikes of racks and, outside, corners.

If there is a ram 150x50 or (180 ... 200) x60 (180 ... 200) x60, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in Fig. Beneficial ability will rise to 200/750 kgf. And from the bar of 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a bed capable of incurring 450 kgf in the statics and 1200 in the dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: Any of these mills is suitable for both carpentry, and under the locksmith. Under the carpentry, they put a boxed cover on it (see below), and under the footer, the tray from the 60x60x4 corner with a welded 4-mm stripes above intermediate beams. The tray is placed on a wooden pillow and cover it with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

A wholesale workbench, without the need for welding work for its manufacture, can be made according to the track. Fig. "Fishka" here in a tabletop, scored on a glue from a bar of 75x50 and bonded tie. If the pump is oak, then the permissible load is 400/1300 kgf. Corner racks - a ram 150x150; The rest is the ram 150x75.

Metal

It happens on the contrary: metal is more affordable wood, and there is welding. Then the table of workbench under load 100/300 kgf can be collected according to the drawing on the left in Fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Boxes - from galvanizing. The disadvantage is impossible to make opening at the bottom of the legs, the design will lose the ability to carry a dynamic load.

Under the load 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench according to the circuit on the right at the top of the proftrub 50x50 (angular racks), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and angle of 30x30x3 are suitable. The boarding pillow of the other workbench is only on only across (on the right below) from headboards (120 ... 150) x40.

Shelf - Steel 2 mm. The shelf is fixed to the pillow with screws of 4x (30 ... 35) in a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - in step (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this version of the workbench will show a given bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already related to universal: under the carpentry, the lid turn over the wooden side up or fit, as described below. Flooring vice are installed on a wooden pillow, but they are fixed not clamp. In the pillow of the vice, the collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is rolled down, and the through hole is drilled under it in the lid. Under the head of the bolt is placed washer from 60x2. Such a solution is convenient because the vice is possible to use inexpensive inexpensive.

For joinery

The cover of the joiner's workbench, unlike the plumbing, is attached to an exposure tightly and is performed by a box, for overall stiffness. The optimal fastening option for an inadvertent workbench is steel corners and self-tapping screws. An exposure can be a steel bed of those described above.

How the carboard workbench of traditional type is arranged, shown on the pos. A rice; Accessories to it for pos. B. Vistar board (in this case, this separate device) is used to work with a long period. The emphasis in its groove is made from a snapped cutting board, see below. In the board, it is advisable to choke a longitudinal row of holes and attach it to the nests with bolts with conical heads wise. The traditional design of the joinery exposure is shown on the pos. G, but - see above.

The cover of the joinery is possible to reduce it, after performing a 2-layer, pos. B. Then high-quality solid wood boards will only be needed on the shelf. We put it out, putting the boards "clutches" of the annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid charging. The shelves flooring first split on PVA or joiner's glue, compressing a clamp or wrapped with a cord; put on the pillow on the same glue. The lid skirt is assembled separately on glue and through spikes (inserts on pos. C) and attached to the shelf Pillow with self-draws.

Visits for joinery

Alloyous carpentry vice, front and challenges, are currently almost completely ousted by vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; Their device is shown for pos. E. Some comments are needed here.

The first - under the head of the clamping screw you need to put 2-3 steel washers, otherwise it will quickly engage in a pillow (4x4x1 cm bodies). The second is if the nut is not registered and not purchased a shaped, then get a while at least for a set of taps under the carved. In this case, do not try for the smooth and smooth clamp to apply too thick screw; M12-M16 is quite enough.

The nut of the self-made clamping pair is welded on the base with a diameter of 60 mm or, square, from 70x70 mm. To draw it into the clamping pillow on it is necessary, so less likely that the nut is squeezed when clamping. But from welding, the thread will not lead ugly, you will not drive the bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to pass by the tags in the full scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the car).

Note: The nut woaded on the base, before passing the thread, you need to learn from 2 hours, so that the residual deformations "lay".

Visits and carpentry for locksmiths

Things on a plumbing workbench are installed in the corner (see the insert in Fig.) So that as many of the dynamic loads as possible during metal processing accounted for vertically on the angular rack. The location of transverse beams and intermediate vertical stands of the workbench with stationary visits is desirable to make a little asymmetric, putting them with smaller intervals in the direction of an angle with vice. The installation of vice also leads from the angle:

The collet anchor under the installation bolt is driven into a wooden angular rack, and a high nut or a threaded sleeve is screwed into a metal (mounting point 1 on the left below in Fig.);
If the welded mounting assembly, takes place with a thread by ties, as in the homemade nut of joiner's vice, see above;
Put vice temporarily to 1 bolt and on the place there are holes for fastening points 2, 3 and 4;
Vice remove and drill through holes 2, 3 and 4;
Put vice on bolts 1, 2 and 3;
For fastening on a bolt 4, put under the cover (worktop), bodice from a wooden bar from 60x60 or proftrube from 40x40. It is not necessary to fix the bump, but it should be resting from under Niza to the upper frame (strapping) of the beds, but not in the worktop!
Fasten the vice finally on the bolt 4.

Note: In the same way, stationary power tools, for example, are fixed emery.

Under the joinear

Merchant workbench can be accommodated for joinery, if drilled in a tabletop 2-4 pairs of holes for fixing the joinery stop (right and in the center in Fig.). In this case, the bottom surfaces of the stop screw the round bins; Tubes are well suited from plastic bottles, they withstand the landing of the battle many times.

Vistak for garage

The workbench in the garage cannot be made optimal in the ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of the standard boxing 4x7 m with the car standing in it do not allow. For a long time, the width of the garage workbar at 510 mm has long been determined by trial and errors: and it is convenient to rotate between it and the hood is quite convenient, and you can work more or less. A narrow workbench under heavy load (for example, taken out for the bulkhead with a motor) turns out to be unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, it increases stability, but any vesticated workbench "takes off" is stronger than the workbench-table of the same design.

Diagram of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in Fig. In this design, a witty method of additional quenching of vibrations is applied: cells of the lid frame and the bottom shelves of the far from the corner of the edge of different sizes. The accuracy of the installation is +/- 1 cm. With the same purpose, the lid and the lower shelf are made of 32 mm thick chipboard and the linoleum is shown instead of steel. For garage works, its resistance is sufficient; Replaced without difficulty.

Fastening to walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a step of 250-350 mm. Blowing into a stone wall 70-80 mm; In a wooden 120-130 mm. Supplean dowels are put on the stone wall; Under the bolts - collet anchors.

More for garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and the wall, on the left in Fig. Mount it can only be on the stone walls. Topic 2-layer folding board; Each layer of plywood is 10-12 mm. We care for the machine with a stepped inner edge. Under the "milling" in this case it is understood as a boring mini-machine with a moving-turntable table and a clamp for the part. The design is convenient because the chips roll immediately to the floor.

If your car is something like Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then it can be put in it a folding minor cabinet with a lifting table, right in rice; He will fit the house for fine work (electronics, accurate mechanics). The countertop is suspended on a piano loop, legs on cards. For folding, the legs are separated under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a progress), and the countertop is lowered.

Note: For a close garage with a conventional city car, it may be optimal to be the folding workbench box, see the video below.

Video: Folding workbench box

Home Universal

Houses are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, models, hourly, artistic drinking from plywood, etc. For small fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and the devices to it are given in Fig. The durability of the working surface and its vibration absorption in this case is not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion ("adhesiveness" of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locker tears to this workbench need small, with screw clamping fastening.

Oh plywood

Actually, it is undesirable to work with the metal "in rough" on the plywood. She is not bad "neighing." If the pillow of the locksmith boards is done still from plywood, then the frame should be glued to the ply (framing) too from plywood, see Fig. The upper (working side) is then desirable to cover first with a linoleum without lining, and on it put steel.

Establing shift

Another case when to make a vistatic board from plywood justified, this is a student workbench for a child. There are already pedagogical considerations playing the role: let it learn to feel the material and do not be too much in vain, but work neatly. With the same purpose of the Master of the past, the bad tool was deliberately given to students.

Workbenches at Dacha

When the country house or others. A lightweight wooden structure is still built, here it is not for the vertical wisdom, you need at least something, on which easy carpentry work. For such a case, you can learn the carpentry workbench for the giving of the girlfriend, on the left in the figure. The design is remarkable in that it is clearly incarnated by the principle: on bad equipment we make good things.

For subsequent work on the arrangement of cottages, a mini-workbacker will come in handy, right in Fig. With minimal consumption of material and maximum design, it is sufficient for conventional carpentry work in all respects, because The middle of the vertical board is underpecable pair of dies. If they put them on the bolts, the workbench will be folded and from the weekend to the weekend to stand in the storage room. For disassembly, after the release of the sub-vehicle, the struts together with them are removed, and the legs are separated under the board. Finally, for the cottage, inhabited constantly or all summer, with the master owner, by the way you have a more complex, but full-featured folding workbench, see the video below.

For the convenience of processing wood, stone, plastic and metal, for finishing and assembly manipulations, a work joiner's workbench is often needed. To make it with your own hands, the drawings will not be required - they are needed for work desks of complex designs, which are also described in this article.

Purpose and typical workbench device

Any workbench is a massive and necessarily stable desktop for processing products of various dimensions. The more its size, the dimensions and heavier items can be processed on it. Moreover, the work itself is performed as a manual tool (with knife, protever, etc.) and mechanized - for example, with an electrical drill or electruruck. The joiner's workbench has the following typical layout:

The working surface is performed from a massive board, a thickness of at least 60 mm. For the workbench, it is desirable to use solid rocks - beech, rack or oak, otherwise it will have to be periodically changed due to rapid wear. The lid can be led from individual dry boards and before installing the Olife process;
On the front (facial) part of the top cover "hang out" visks for fastening the processed products. If the linear size of the workbench exceeds 1 meter, you can install two vice - separately for large and small parts. Large vice should be wooden, small permissible in the "steel option";
Topic supports are made of soft wood - pine or linden. Wooden workbenches are necessarily interconnected by longitudinal planks for the overall stability of the structure;
On supports in an expanded space, retractable or tightly fixed shelves for tools can be located.

A row holes for installing clamps, wedges and other parts for fasteners are drilled in the front of the top cover. In the rear of the working surface, it includes a deepening - it is intended for small parts and accessories. It is possible to replace the complex in the manufacture of a perimeter of wooden plates.

Homemade workbench can have three types of constructive design:

Mobile. A small table with dimensions of about 70 per 80 cm in length and width, with one vice and weighing up to 30 kg. The lower parts of the supports are made of metal for additional stability. Designed for small repair and working with light wood products;
A stationary workbench of a simple design is easy to manufacture, but firmly "tied" to one place. Used to handle heavy boards and massive wooden blanks;
Compound on bolted connections. It is convenient for its "discerning" and simplicity of the replacement of individual parts, but the manufacture is more complicated by others.

Photo Gallery: Drawings with dimensions and designations

Methods for independent manufacture of stationary and adjustable workbenches Consider more. Stationary laughed in the ground in its own area, in the country or in the yard. If it is installed inside the garage or other working room, it is recommended to attach it well to the floor so that the workbench did not swing during operation.

The assembly sequence is as follows:

The base is a frame of wooden bars, which is fastened so that the structure is as a result as reliable as possible. To do this, you need to arrange a jumper between the legs, and in the middle to install the kingu. They are best arranged at a distance of about 40 cm from the floor level. By the way, they will also be suitable for creating additional shelves. Brussia is combined with the help of construction glue. Where it is impossible to carry out such work, you need to operate the screws. If you are going to make a disassembly tool, it is best to connect with metal corners. In any case, all the grooves are first prepared, then the design is assembled, the glue is processed by the compounds, fix them with clamps. The best option for a stationary workbench is considered the possibility of part of the instrument to attach to the wall for reliability.
The base is a frame from BRUSEV
If you build a tabletop from several boards, it is important to make it high quality as high quality so that garbage and sawdust fall into the gaps. The dimensions must exceed the width and the length of the base by 3-5 cm - this will allow with all the amenities to clean the tool.
The countertop is screwed and nailed to several boards, which are on the other side of the working surface, and at the base it is necessary to place the grooves for mounting bars.
Boards are attached to a steady frame
The desktop should be put in order with the help of a grinding machine, cover the oil to reduce the risk of injury from pinch, and metal corners are screwed to its base bolts.
To the already made working surface is a clinium vice, which should be created in the working surface, this will allow you to position the vertical plate into one plane with the worktop. From the bottom side, we establish a plywood gasket, while it is important to make that the lips of the vice are located at one level with the surface. Applying a vice, mark the site where the holes will be drilled, and attach them with nuts. Pre-milling holes so that the bolts in them "stop". It is best to install vice not at the corners, which will make them reliable even subject to lags.
To the surface of the workbench, you can attach a vice or saw
In addition to vice, you must do and stops. Of course, they can be made independently, but it is better to purchase and ready. However, if you decide to create them with your own hands, prepare rectangular stops that can be adjusted in height. Bolts should not be used because they can damage the workpieces when working. On the working surface, we do the holes for the stops, while it is desirable to be located at a distance of up to 50% of the progress - this will allow you to securely secure any billets.

Video: Vistak with vice

Video: Desktop with saw

How to make a simple joiner workbench do it yourself

The top cover is peeled from thick boards, from which a massive shield of 70 cm wide and up to 2 meters should be turned out. For fasteners, long nails are used, driven into the boards with the "facade" side and carefully bend on the wrong wooden jumpers. The work surface of the workbench is necessarily performed from a wooden array, fiberboard, chipboard and other materials from pressed chips for it categorically not suitable.
A good constructive solution will be the cover of the lid along the bottom perimeter of the 5 cm with 5 cm - subsequently, it is convenient to fix vertical supports to it. Increased severity of the cover will only give additional stability to the entire construction.
The location of the top cover of our workbench depends on the location of the vertical supports. It is advisable to make them from a rectangular timber with dimensions from 120 by 120 mm. You can take as a support and round forest, but its fasteners are not so reliable as in square (rectangular) bars. Of great importance is the height of the working surface, the convenience of carpentry manipulations depends on it.
Optimally install the upper slice of the supports at the level of lowered down hands - due to the installation of the cover, the overall height of the workbench "grows up" by 7-10 cm and work on it is quite convenient. On Earth, we carry out the markup to the wells for vertical supports and dig them to a depth of 25-30 cm. Accordingly, the total length of the bars of bars is 1.2-1.3 meters.
Vertical bars are installed in the dug holes exactly, strictly in the construction level. The installed supports are connected in pairs using wide boards at an altitude of 20-40 cm. The transverse boards are attached to vertical bars with long screws. After that, the operating surface is mounted on the ends of the supports. For its installation, self-supersubs are used, since the hammer blows on nails can move the framework of our design.
When the upper cover is securely fixed, you can "hang" vice, clamps and other devices for the convenience of joinery.

If the design is more complicated

In the manufacture of a composite joiner's workbench with their own hands, the drawings will be required, although the manufacturer's procedure itself is largely similar to the above. The main differences are related to the use of bolted connections instead of self-sufficient screws and mounting boxes for the tool in an expanded space.

When the installation of the vertical support is completed, they are connected to among themselves horizontal jumpers. Previously in each jumper with the help of the chisels and the hammer, the grooves under the nut with a washer (you can use special furniture bolts with C-shaped nuts). By setting a bar-jumper to the height, a through hole in which a long bolt is inserted in the vertical support and the horizontal bar is drilled. From the side of the prepared groove on the bolt "Introduced" the nut with the washer and is thoroughly dragged on the thread.

Horizontal jumpers for the framework of the collapsible workbench will be required two from all four sides. In addition, it is necessary to set 1-2 jumpers in the middle of the table, directly under it. Horizontal rails are attached to these additional jumpers for small self-tapping screws, which will slide drawers for the tool. The boxes themselves are manufactured "at the place", that is, depending on the size of the assembly lumen between the jumpers.

The working cover of the collapsible workbench is also attached on the bolts. In the rapid part of the vertical supports with the help of the chisel, the mounting recess is hosted, the holes under the bolts are drilled in the lid. Because A smooth working surface is necessary, the heads of the bolts are "combed" in the lid due to the drills of the appropriate diameter drills drill.

Video: how to make an independent milling table

The indisputable advantage of the collapsible workbench is not only in the easy replacement of parts and the table top. As is known, under the load from planing, drilling, with another mechanical processing, the most durable workbench is loosened. It is much more reliable and easier to re-tighten the fastening bolts than to drive new nails or screws into the wood - so the collapsible models serve much longer than the incomplete analogues.

Video: folding table workbench

The design of the joinery will be dependent on your needs. In order to make it with your own hands, sufficiently minimal knowledge and skills.