How to make thorns with your own hands. How winter studded tires are made for cars. Selection of materials and necessary fixtures

Cyclists looking to continue riding comfortably in cold weather should consider switching from their steel horse's regular tires to studded tires. Special protectors for winter are on sale, which are equipped with steel spikes. However, they are expensive, about 1000-2500 rubles, do-it-yourself studding of tires will be much cheaper. This is not as difficult as it might seem right away, and you only need to buy self-tapping screws, good glue. Naturally, you will also need regular tires.

Choice of spikes

For the modernization of tires, self-tapping screws are selected, which are designed to be screwed into metal holes. The optimal length is 14 mm, and their cap should be wide and with rounded edges. Such self-tapping screws are also good because they have a wide tip, due to which they will wear out more slowly.

Choosing a spike tread

To make for a bicycle with your own hands, it is better to choose tires with the thickest rubber, which is designed for snow and ice. This will allow the tire to be retrofitted so that it is versatile for snow, ice and asphalt. The rubber should not be too hard to grip the surface better. It is not necessary to equip the protector with self-tapping screws too densely, because they will not hold on smooth stones or tiles. And if you insert too few pimples, their tenacity will not be enough on the ice, so it's worth finding a middle ground. It is necessary that the protrusions on the tread alternate: one with a metal spike, the other without it. Do-it-yourself tire studding should not be carried out only in the center of the tire, it is very important that there are self-tapping screws on the sides. Indeed, when cornering, stability is much more difficult to maintain. For this reason, the side parts must be equipped with metal spikes thicker than the center. This symmetry will allow you to ride comfortably on any surface. One protector needs about 140 self-tapping screws to ensure good grip on any surface.

Method of installing self-tapping screws on the protector

So, we are preparing for winter with our own hands. First, the tread pattern is examined. It is necessary to decide into which protrusions you will need to screw the self-tapping screws so that their location is symmetrical. This is very important, because if you place more or less studs somewhere, the grip will be uneven, which will significantly impair movement.

After it has been decided which protrusions need to be equipped with spikes, they are marked so as not to be mistaken in the sequence, after which they are drilled. It is convenient to do this with an electric drill, and it is better to choose a drill two times thinner than self-tapping screws.

Tread drilling

The tire is drilled from the outside, laying it for convenience on a wooden board. When all the holes are made, start the bike with your own hands. The studs must be screwed in from the inside of the tread. Before that, we take the pliers, which will be convenient for taking self-tapping screws. Then we dip them into the glue to the cap, insert them into the hole and screw them in with a screwdriver. Many people use screwdrivers, but for a start, it is better to use a regular screwdriver until all the actions begin to work out automatically. As for the glue, any rubber, for gluing the camera, or the usual "Moment" will do just fine.

The self-tapping screw must be mounted carefully, although it is screwed into the guide hole, it can still come out not where expected. In this case, unscrew it and install it correctly. Indeed, adhesion to the surface depends on the angles at which the spikes are located in relation to the ground. Thus, tire studding runs along the entire circumference, with your own hands, at home, without any special tools. The central studs should protrude 2 mm above the rubber, this is the optimal size for good grip. If some exceed this size, then they need to be shortened using nippers. The side cleats can protrude up to 4 mm because they do not come into contact when driving on straight sections of the surface, but are only used when cornering.

Camera puncture protection

After all the metal components are installed and securely tightened, you can start protecting the camera from the screw caps. To do this, you can use a nylon tape or any other, the main thing is that it is as rigid as possible. Or cut the old camera into strips of the desired width. The main thing is that all caps are closed to avoid contact with the camera.

Bonding a protective pad between the tube and the studded tire

In principle, some do not glue the protective tape, but for reliability it is better to do this so that the spike of the wheels with your own hands turns out to be of high quality, and during the ride the screws do not pierce the camera. If the glue is quick-drying, then it is better to cut the tape into pieces and glue them one by one. In a word, you need to glue the caps of the screws from the inside.

Many, for better adhesion of all parts, when they are connected, lay the inner part with polyethylene and insert the chamber, after which they pump it up with a pump. Thus, everything fits snugly and is leveled. In this form, the protector is allowed to dry, and the polyethylene prevents the camera from sticking. The next day, when everything is dry, you can collect the wheel.

What changes occur when riding after installing a do-it-yourself studded bicycle rubber?

First of all, it is the weight of the tire. It can be calculated based on the fact that one self-tapping screw weighs in the region of 2 grams (plus glue). The weight becomes more by about 400-600 grams, but again everything is individual. For this reason, the speed drops by 2-3 km / h. There is a little more noise from the tires, but it rather depends on the surface that is under the wheels. And, of course, the appearance of the tread is more toothy and predatory.

However, all the disadvantages are nothing, compared to the advantages that the wheel studding, carried out with your own hands, gives. The first is the price, this option is much cheaper than branded rubber. The second is that the size of the metal spikes and their location can be precisely matched to your needs. And do not hope that the purchased tire will meet the necessary requirements.

Well, now about the skating itself

Even when riding on open ice, the bike rolls like on asphalt. No drifts occur, even when cornering. You can easily drive up the hill where the children made a skating rink for themselves, flooding it with water, the grip occurs as in the summer. The snow is also excellent. As for asphalt and slippery stones, it all depends on how the spikes are located. Many, knowing that they will ride in winter mainly in the city, do not put self-tapping screws on the middle row at all. But if there is still such a need, then they should not stick out of the rubber by more than 2 millimeters. In general, do-it-yourself studding of winter tires is justified, and its advantages outweigh the disadvantages.

Do both wheels need to be studded?

When winter is very changeable, and snowfall gives way to slush, only the front wheel can be studded. It is responsible for handling, but the load on it is much less. Therefore, the spikes will not wear off very much if you drive, for example, on bare asphalt. When the rear wheel skids on the ice, it is not as dangerous as the front one. In general, do-it-yourself studding of winter tires provides more opportunities than a finished product. However, if there is money for branded protectors, and they meet all the requirements, then, of course, it is more convenient to purchase them.

Having covered the tires with metal spikes once, the cyclist will know exactly what to change in the next models. The whole difficulty of the first choice lies in the fact that there is no unambiguous answer to the question of what spikes should be and how many to screw them in. It all depends on the specific ski area. However, as practice shows, if such wheels are needed not for a highly specialized sports discipline, then it is better to make universal ones.

So, the article describes how to spike tires with your own hands, and what you should pay attention to. This method is the most versatile and suitable for any type of coating. By making a tread stud using this method, it will be possible in the future to more clearly understand what to change for better grip in a particular riding area. One thing can be said for sure: that the rubber in which the metal spikes are installed will always be better in the cold than the one that is not equipped with them.

Today we are going to talk about how to self-attach studs to a bicycle tire to make winter studded bicycle tires. We will also consider the methods of mounting homemade studs on bicycle tires with our own hands to ride a bicycle in winter.

Cycling, of course, means riding more in the warm season, but some extreme cyclists do not leave their "iron horses" alone in winter, arranging winter rides in nature or simply using them as an ordinary vehicle.

Running a bike in winter requires not only excellent physical fitness of the cyclist, but also makes special demands on the bike. So, here are some useful tips for winter bike use:

· Be sure to fit winter studded tires. With frequent movement on ice or rolled snow, tires with at least 200-350 studs are required; for movement on city streets, there may be less spikes - from 50 to 200 pieces.

· If the bike has only caliper brakes, then at least one of them (front) must be replaced with disc brakes. The thing is that V-brake brakes working on the rim clamp significantly lose their effectiveness in cold weather due to icing of the rims. The wheel can make up to 10 revolutions from the moment the brake is pressed. What kind of safety can we talk about when a bicycle travels a distance of 20 meters in 10 revolutions? In cold weather, disc brakes also perform worse than in summer, but still significantly more efficient than V-brakes.

· When driving on winter roads, the chain is necessarily clogged with dirt and road reagents. It is imperative to clean and lubricate the chain after each ride.

· When driving on snow, sprockets and derailleurs become clogged with snow very quickly. It is recommended to periodically stop and clean the gearshift mechanism.
· If there are cracks or chips on the paintwork of the bike, paint over the damaged areas, otherwise rust will corrode the frame, and in the summer you will have nothing to ride on.

· Oil seals, bushings and carriages "dubbed" in the cold, letting in dirt and other nasty things. We recommend disassembling and changing the grease of the bushings and carriage every two months.

· It gets dark very quickly in winter, so be sure to install a red flashing light and reflectors on your bike to indicate your presence in the dark, and install a headlight in front, preferably an LED one.

Many cyclists ask themselves the question in winter - to switch to studded tires or not. One of the decisive factors against bike spikes is the high price of quality winter tires. Only one bicycle tire with spikes can cost five thousand rubles - that is not always ready to spend on a bicycle rubber.

But by the way, such rubber is worth its money - the spikes reliably bite into icy areas, allowing the bike to maintain its trajectory.

No desire to buy? You can do it yourself

Let's say right off the bat, it is unlikely that it will be possible to maintain the roll-off with independent studding, but it is quite possible to achieve decent contact with the ice surface.

What we need to make our own studded bicycle rubber:

An old tire with a high tread (completely worn out will not work);
- awl;
- a couple of hundred self-tapping screws with a press washer;
- silicone or shoe glue;
- old bike camera;
- pliers;
- screwdriver;
- file.

Have you found all the necessary materials? Begin!

Decide what kind of drawing you are going to make. It is optimal for most cases - to insert the cleats in three rows - on the sides and in the center. The center can be dispensed with to maintain roll and give the rubber the properties of a winter grip for turns and in narrow ice ruts.

You can also spike in four rows - this is especially reasonable if there are even numbers of checkers in the tread.

Having decided on the patterns of the spikes, mark the punctures along the centers of the lugs (bumps) of the tire.

Turn the tire inside out and start screwing the self-tapping screw into the pierced hole - a small part of it should come out right in the center of the lug. The occupation is dreary and long.

At the next stage, we begin to make a fur coat. For this we need an old bike camera. Cut it open, lay the inner side of the tire (not to the very edge of the cord), measure and align everything again and begin to attach it to the glue. The task of the fur coat is to protect the working bicycle chamber from cuts with screw caps.

The next stage involves grinding the screws to an acceptable level. The side ones can be left, but the radial spikes will have to be cut off. Leave the edges of the radial screws protruding no more than 1 to 2 mm. With side ones - to taste.

How to cut? - wire cutters, pliers, file, grinder. With nippers or pliers, you will make a rough cut, and with a file, you will align for a condition close to what we see on factory rubber.

That's all.

Features of self-made winter bike tires

Not the most ideal roll forward;
- Quite a massive mass of the structure;
- Archaic spike, inferior to what we see on factory rubber;
- Cheap and cheerful!

Video instruction

Is all this necessary?

The thorn is yours for downhill riders, country races, or bike riders.
It is customary to clean downhill tracks before skiing, but this will not soften the ground - the spike increases grip on the frozen ground, this is important and you can feel it.

In winter country racing without studs, it is objectively more difficult to work at full strength. While the snow is soft - good, but the sections on the tracks are different.

In cycling tourism, a thorn is safety. When you ride along the trails, think about how dangerous it is to leave a wheel on a sudden ice bump, and off trails - in the forest, on snow-covered areas, a bicycle spike rescues fans of winter cycling.

Buy a good cycling rubber for the winter, or make your own as described in the article above. The roll will be less, but the advantages of its use are still greater.

Cycling is an enjoyable pastime for many. But for those who like to ride a bike in winter, other studded tires are provided. Next, we need a tool: a good, suitable screwdriver for self-tapping screws, a head for 7 (8 screwdriver or drill, drill (2-3mm chalk, awl, spacer for the tire. We mark the tire, those places where the spike will sit. You can use chalk or a marker We mark evenly. We take into account the fact that a large number of studs increases the weight of the tire, and with a small number the necessary grip will not be provided. Here you need a creative approach. Also, do not forget about the loosening of the tire, due to the break of the cord with a drill and self-tapping screws. drill with a diameter of 2-3 mm Insert between the sides.

The tires were "made" in one evening with a screwdriver, by eye. Between the camera and the tire, the spacer is a single layer of adhesive tape. Self-tapping screws are the smallest, 2.5x10. Impressions: tires are extremely inconvenient to install, new screws prick. On ice and packed snow, the grip is very good. The motorbike leaves the icy track at a very slight angle without any problems. Holds the road when braking and cornering. It is impossible to drive on loose snow - the resistance force is too great. The photo shows a wheel after 400 km. Half on ice, the other on asphalt. #eleven.
With a screwdriver, we press the self-tapping screw into the slots, from the outside with the head. We tighten so that the first thread appears above the nut. We control visually and manually that the tire is well compressed by the stud head from the inside and the washer and nut from the outside. And so with every thorn. Be careful, the ends of the self-tapping screws are traumatic! Affected: body and limbs, clothing, parquet flooring, lacquered / polished objects and particularly sensitive animals! Do not forget that at speed and during rotation, such a wheel can not weakly injure both its owner and those around it. When assembling the wheel between the tube and the tire. Today I decided to update the worn screws on the rear wheel of my bike. Why only in the back? Because on the front they did not wear off :) Although the front wheel is mainly responsible for handling, I wanted to update the screws on the rear to get rid of slippage and drifts on the ice.

So, although the screws on the front wheel have worn off a little, they still have to roll and roll, and I see no reason to replace them, they work well. On the rear wheel, the screws were almost completely erased and the effect from them is already very small: I began to slip strongly on the ice, the rear wheel often blows away. There were no falls, but control over the road was weakened.

I want to tell you more about how the self-tapping screws wear out. Only the central row is stitched. The side rows work very rarely, so they hardly wear out on both wheels. The front wheel is lightly loaded, so there they practically do not wear out. On the rear wheel, everything is more serious. Let's imagine that we have a wheel with new screws. After 10-20 km of driving on the asphalt, the self-tapping screws will noticeably undermine. Then the wear rate will decrease. After 40-60 km of asphalt, the self-tapping screws will protrude from the rubber quite a bit, but they will still provide good grip on ice. After that, the wear rate will decrease even more, and only after 100-200 km of asphalt they will be erased so that they stop working. Therefore, do not be alarmed if you notice that after a few kilometers of asphalt pavement the brand new self-tapping screws have noticeably worn off :) I have traveled a little over 400 km this winter and only now decided to pierce the tires again. Moreover, we must remember that the winter of 2011-2012 until mid-January was practically snowless and I had to drive almost only on asphalt. I think if winter was normal, my thorns would last until spring.

I will also mention the gaskets. After the camera was cut through 3 times with the caps of the self-tapping screws, I decided to go to extreme measures and made a gasket between the camera and the tire from three old cameras on the rear wheel, and on the front one from an old semi-slick tire. The bike has become noticeably heavier, but I'm used to it and can now maintain a fairly high speed.

So, this is what the old worn out screws look like. They hardly help anymore:

And this is how new ones look like, just screwed in. They look scary, but you need to be afraid only for linoleum :)

Replacing self-tapping screws is not difficult. I just twisted the old ones and screwed the new ones. The side rows, of course, did not touch. It took less than an hour to unscrew the old screws. It took a little over an hour to screw in new ones. The rubber, by the way, practically did not wear out and the new screws sat down tightly enough. I also want to draw your attention to the fact that although I use the most budget tires (250 rubles apiece), its condition can be assessed as excellent, despite the fact that I drove at least 300 km on asphalt and only a little more than a hundred - on snow (winter then , damn it, snowless). Those. self-tapping screws have reduced rubber wear when driving on asphalt.

Last time I asked a friend to sharpen my screws to the required length. The second time I don't want to disturb the person, and I decided not to grind the screws at all. As you can see in the photo, they protrude from the rubber by 0.5 cm

I was hoping that I would ride a few kilometers on the asphalt and they would undermine. Actually, this almost happened, only they did not grind off, but broke off a little at the tips. After a couple (rather heavy, by the way) kilometers of asphalt, they were without sharp ends, and after 10 km of asphalt and 20 km of snow (well, snow does not count), the self-tapping screws are quite suitable, slightly hypertrophied spikes that perfectly hold on the ice and protrude only on 1.5-2 mm. Now that they have become shorter, their wear will be noticeably reduced and you can ride safely

Actually, the result is as follows: there is no need to grind new screws, it is enough just to ride literally 2-3 km on the asphalt.

Studded tires for a bicycle allow its owner to enjoy cycling in ice and snow, without fear of being unable to cope with the movement and falling on a bad road. After all, the road is often simply unpredictable during the winter driving period.

Studded tires are similar to car analogues, with a durable metal tread that is located on both sides of the tire. It makes it possible to drive without problems on an icy surface, but under the condition of not strong pumping of the wheels.

The spikes themselves on the tire come in various shapes:

- pointed;

- flat.

In addition, studded tires come in different numbers of studs.

One type is double row tires. They are located on the sides. With good pumping of the wheel, they practically do not touch the surface, only when turning. This applies to those weather conditions when there is no ice on the surface of the asphalt. But if you need to ride on an icy surface, the wheel should be less inflated. And the weather will work exactly those side metal spikes that are necessary for contact with slippery surfaces.

Another type is four-row tires. They are similar to double-row tires, but the difference is that they also have an additional two rows of studs. That is, the number of studs on the tire has been increased by one and a half times. They are more powerful, make it possible to move comfortably where there are no normal roads. But first of all, they are designed for driving on an icy surface, but at the same time it makes it possible to drive on roads.

Important when using such a bus:

1.It does not carry out strong pumping. And then the steep bends and descents will be overwhelming for the cyclist.

2. And then it allows good grip of the tire on slippery surfaces.

3. Absence of harsh braking and spike tires will last long enough.

And after installing studded tires, you need to go through a running-in process. But this must be done very carefully. This is necessary in order not to harm the spikes themselves and the tire. The very process of running-in is carried out precisely on asphalt and for an hour with a slow movement of the bike. This will provide the studded tire with a longer life in good condition and without losing studs. And then any bike ride will be a joy even in winter.

Winter came and I had to do something with the bike so as not to fall on the ice. I could buy a ready-made studded bicycle rubber - it would cost me 4-5 thousand rubles. Not only because of the desire to save money, but also from the eternal desire to do something with my own hands, I decided to make winter bicycle tires myself.

Was bought: 2 budget tires for 250 rubles. each; 400 pcs. 13 mm. screws (about 100 rubles).

Tires were chosen with large "teeth" so that self-tapping screws could fit comfortably in them. The tire had 80 + 140 + 80 teeth in total. I didn't want to screw in 300 screws, so I inserted the screws through one into the side rows. As a result, about 190-200 self-tapping screws were inserted into each tire. This made the tires about 200 grams heavier.

So, the tires are bought, the screws are also. We must get to work. First you need to make the guide holes in the tires. Without them, the screws will often go crooked and come out in the wrong place. It is very important that the self-tapping screws "protrude" from the center of the "tooth" - this will extend the life of the tire. To do this, I took a drill and started drilling holes. It was, to put it mildly, hard, so I came up with a new method: I clamped the nail with pliers, heated it over the fire and made holes in the tires with it. It was no longer difficult, but it still took a lot of time. And then a brilliant idea came to my mind - to make holes with an awl! Sheel was not at home, so I had to buy it. Making holes with an awl is the best option.

The holes are ready, it's time to screw in the screws. I bought self-tapping screws for 13 mm with a press washer. It is very important to buy with a press washer, because only they have a fairly wide "hat". I screwed the screws into the tire with an ordinary screwdriver. I did not turn the tire inside out. The main thing is that the screws are screwed in exactly. You do not need to put them on glue. The self-tapping screw must be screwed in so that at the exit it slightly crushes the rubber under it with a thread.

Self-tapping screws are screwed in, let's move on. Now they need to be sharpened. I didn't have a sharpener, so I asked a friend to sharpen the thorns. The self-tapping screws were hefty strong and the sharpener was more likely to grind off than they. But, all the same, they managed to undermine them. On one tire, the spikes were slightly longer; I put it on the front wheel, because there is less load on it and the quality of handling depends on it. The side row of self-tapping screws can be turned looser (the main thing is that they are not sharp), because they will work only when turning. A tire with turned self-tapping screws looks like this

Self-tapping screws are screwed in and turned, but that's not all. To prevent the screw caps from damaging the camera, you need to make a lining. For this I cruelly cut two chambers - one old and one, I'm not afraid of this word, new. Now you can collect the wheel. When stacking the camera, be careful not to scratch it on the thorns.

Yesterday I tested my homemade winter bike tires, riding about 25 km on snow and about 35 km on asphalt. When driving on asphalt, a rather loud noise is generated, but this cannot be called a big drawback. When driving on snow and ice, the tires showed themselves in the best possible way - while friends on ordinary tires constantly fell on the ice, I drove absolutely without bothering, as if on asphalt :) If we compare studded tires with ordinary tires, albeit with an evil tread , during emergency braking, the difference is simply monstrous. Heaven and earth! With studded tires, when braking at high speed on ice, it does not skid at all, the studs leave a deep mark on the ice.

There is only one drawback - it is difficult to maintain a high driving speed and a little more difficult to drive in general. You can feel it when driving on asphalt, but driving on ice / snow is a real pleasure.

As I said, about 35 km yesterday I had to drive on bare asphalt. A friend who has much more experience said that upon arrival home I would have to change the tires, as the spikes will wear off from the asphalt. But it turned out that the screws practically did not wear off. They only turned and became not sharp, but the length remained the same. However, it is worth noting that there is no need to do it once at a time - I was just lucky with the purchase of high-quality self-tapping screws. In general, it is not desirable to ride on such rubber on asphalt, but it is possible if the speed is not high.

Using a homemade winter studded bicycle rubber. Advantages and disadvantages

I recently wrote about how to make spiked rubber for a bicycle. Some time passed, I managed to ride it and now I'm ready to talk about the advantages and disadvantages of this bicycle rubber.

First, about the merits.

Although some people say that they normally ride on ordinary tires in winter, but, whatever one may say, the difference is obvious. Especially when braking. But it is the quality of braking that is most important when cycling in winter. Well, everything is clear with the advantages, let's move on to the disadvantages and difficulties.

disadvantages

Of course, this kind of rubber is a little harder to ride. But that's not the point. When driving on asphalt, the spikes on the rear wheel are noticeably erased, so the rear wheel is not enough for me for the whole winter (everything is ok with the front one) and I will either have to make a new tire, or unscrew the worn out screws and screw in new ones. But in this case, the tire rubber can quickly wear out, because a new portion of self-tapping screws, most likely, will not follow the existing thread, but will lay a new one. But this is not the main thing either. When I decided to stud a bicycle tire for the first time, one of the main reasons was the lack of winter bicycle tires on sale, or rather, a rarity, and therefore without a choice of options. But now it is on sale, and there is some choice, and you can probably buy any one in online stores.

But looking at the arrangement of metal and rubber spikes in bicycle tires, and understanding how and where there is a desire to ride in winter, the mood did not improve. It's as if the tire manufacturers who invent the products are taking care of their products from too idealistic positions. Either asphalt and flat ice, or rolled snow alternately with a snowless road. And the thorns, as they are specially made so that they are lost rather on hard surfaces, and it would be necessary to buy the next bicycle tire.

As a result of the reasoning - to spend money on what is or to do what is much cheaper, but I chose to do exactly the way it was needed.
Base selection - tires

First, I decided on the parameters - what should be the tire. And taking into account the previous experience of studding old ones, with partially worn out tread, I decided that only a new one and not an accidental one, which will get it for nothing (or almost nothing), but selected from catalogs, or from those suitable that are on sale. In extreme cases, I decided to wait for the one ordered in the internet store, but exactly the one that turns out to be more suitable.

1. - should be folding, since it is much easier to remove and put on in the cold than with a wire frame - tires with aramid frame are softer, more obedient. Yes, and piercing with an awl, drilling, keeping the direction of the puncture and drilling, at the desired angle, is easier, as well as screwing in the thorn screw. If the tire can be flattened. It is easy to press it with a clamp to the plane of the workbench or plywood (board).

2. - should be with a Kevlar cord, since piercing the tire in the cold and then gluing is not an easy task due to the very frost. And the experience of breaking a tire in winter has already happened - I drove along a broken section of a metal fence with a sticking out bar that is not visible under the snow. Then he glued not only the camera, but also the tire - the gap was one and a half centimeters. The procedure took over two hours in the cold. The fire had to be built in order to glue at a positive temperature.

3. - The main point is the location of the rubber spikes of the tire, because in them you will have to install metal spikes. So that the height is no more than 4 mm - less than that of the branded winter ones by 1.0 - 1.5 mm, and the location and quantity would allow driving on hard surface with less losses. And so that when turning and passing inclined ice surfaces, the thorns appear in the place of the most advantageous application of forces - holding abilities. And it is imperative that the spikes are located more often along the contact track, for less mechanical losses when driving on ice.

4. - the dimensions of the rubber spikes of the tire. So that the spike does not have a size, along or across, less than 8 by 8 mm, since it will not be possible to hold the spike under load - the rubber spike will tear in the direction of the load on the metal spike.

On the tire found and liked in all respects, there were 444 spikes with dimensions 9 by 11 mm and 8 by 11 mm, 4 mm high, located in the best way for the planned winter rides on ice, asphalt and stony roads.

They turned out to be - KUJO DH 2.25 K, for installation on the rear wheel, and KUJO DH 2.35 K, for installation on the front wheel, according to the turning condition, and therefore at a greater angle than the rear wheel, to run over (drive off) ice obstacles.

Produced by - IRC.

They also had embossed inscriptions pleasant to the eye - MADE IN JAPAN, and the sidewalls made of red rubber, softer in the cold, prettier than a completely black tire.

Basically, as if everything is on the tires, now you need to find what will then be metal spikes.
Finding suitable screws - studs

The trip to the fastener shops had to be carried out for a long time, because what some offered could be worse than what could be found elsewhere. Only two sellers had visual stands to choose screws, but for clarity, there are only one, two standard sizes on it, and not everything that can be on sale. Yes, and on the sites I had to look for links to articles of self-made people who were ahead of me in such an idea.

In all the articles read, self-tapping screws with sharp ends of screws or washers with curved pointed edges (homemade or furniture with a threaded groove - washer-nut with horns) were used, riveted with blind rivets or ordinary rivets. Both of them have one feature - to tear and tear everything that neither touches nor passes on anything - clothes, wallpaper, linoleum, etc. Another reason for rejecting washers is that those that are furniture must be fixed with a screw with a flat washer, but even with a thread lock, they can be easily lost. But the main thing is that it is impossible not to get hurt by putting on or taking off such a tire, even with gloves or mittens made of strong, thick leather. An attribute that you will definitely need to take with you with other tools if the spikes are so sharp. How to temper them is also a task. And the losses when driving with such washers are large. In general, the washers are not.

As a result, the choice was stopped on self-tapping screws with a washer head, hardened, galvanized with a tip - a drill.

The drill ends of these screws do not scratch hands, do not cling to fabric, fleece, or puffs. They do not stick into linoleum, do not tear wooden surfaces under light load. But since the tips are made for drilling metal, they are harder (harder) than conventional screws. Tried trying to scratch glass with self-tapping drills and sharp ordinary ones. The drills were able to scratch with less pressure and immediately.

Arranged and dimensions - 7.5 mm, 9 mm, 13 mm, and 16 mm in length, and diameters - 3.8 mm and 4.0 mm, which are quite suitable for mounting in tires with different thicknesses of rubber.

True, the 2 smallest sizes were 7.75 mm in diameter and without washer-like extensions. The rest with washer caps with a diameter of 10.7 mm. For some reason, sellers call them pre-washers.

Since the spikes were found and bought, it was possible to buy out the tires I liked that were waiting for me in the Trial-Sport store.
Combining theory, guesswork, someone else's and your own experience into a single whole

At first I had to think about the installation method - screwing in the studs, how to drill and pierce the tire so as not to damage the cord. Trying on a cut piece from an old tire, cutting along the drilled piece at different angles and with different revolutions, with drills of different diameters - from 1.0 mm to 4.0 mm, and changing the sharpening, I came to the conclusion. You need a drill with a diameter of 2.0 mm - 2.5 mm, sharpening at an angle of 45 degrees or more, with a zero or negative angle of the cutting edge, the attacking part of the drill. The best indicator was when drilling with such a prepared drill, but in the opposite direction, as when unscrewing, the direction of rotation - absolutely no damage to the cord threads. But even with the right rotation, the results were not bad - the cord was strained in isolated cases.

The technology is as follows - first, with an awl, pierce the tire where the spike will be installed. At an angle of installation of the thorn. Poke through the outside so that the awl sticks out 15-20 mm inside the tire, so that you can see the place and the angle - the direction of the hole. Take a drill with a drill and reversed direction of rotation. The maximum drills are not more than 1000. It is more convenient if it is a cordless drill with speed control by the trigger trigger. Notice the location and direction of drilling, remove the awl and immediately drill into the resulting hole. Put aside the drill with the drill, take the second drill - an electric screwdriver with a Phillips screwdriver installed in the chuck - a pin, matching the number to the cross for the screw-drill. Place the screw-drill on the tip of the Phillips screwdriver (pin) and screw into the hole at an angle of drilling - piercing with an awl. Check that the screw drill - the thorn comes out exactly in the right place, marked by the awl.

And the same 443 times, and then for the second tire the same amount - exactly 444 identical procedures - "Chinese labor". A little "trick", so as not to pierce the tire under each spike separately, punctured as many holes as you intended to install spikes on a given day (work shift). Then he stuck parquet nails into the holes obtained, and took them out only one at a time before drilling. Then he again inserted nails into the holes obtained, but thicker - 3 mm thick, immediately after drilling. And when he drilled the rate of the day, then he took out three-millimeter-thick nails one at a time before screwing in the thorn screw. So the holes did not "disappear" - they did not tighten, and it is faster and more accurate than repeating all procedures with each thorn.

First, a row of extreme ones, at appropriate angles, pierced and inserted parquet nails (they are inserted easily) - you can immediately see whether the holes are evenly and correctly marked along the protruding row of nails. Then the other extreme row, and then along the rows and the rest. But not all in a circle, but a section - a sector, into which the tire was divided, as in working days. Observing accuracy and attention, each stage of work is visually easily controlled by evenly placed carnations.

It took the listed work, about 30 working hours - two weeks in the evenings.

It could be faster, but after all, I worked out the control technology, it was already beautiful - the result of the work is visible and predictable.

Attention - you need to pierce the tire with an awl once for one spike, precisely marking the place of the hole according to the drawing, taking into account the angle along the red dotted line - 3-5 degrees from the black dotted line, no more.

The tire is 26 by 2.25 inches, screws and spikes of different sizes are used - the middle row is the smallest, blued, then a little larger galvanized, and on the outer rows the largest ones with a pre-washer head.

Close-up on a 26 "by 2.35" tire. It can be seen that in the extreme rows, the screws are screwed in at an angle favorable for holding the ice. All spines are largest, with a pre-washer cap.

I called my friend trial man, asked: - "Are there any unnecessary cameras made of thick rubber with a torn off nipple?" It turned out that there are as many as 3 pieces. It was from these cameras that I cut out the stripes. I cut it in the middle of the sidewalls and used the outer part. Two chambers with a wall thickness of 1.5 mm and one with a wall thickness of 3.5 mm are heavy, the whole chamber weighed 600 grams, like a tire.

Thick-walled chamber, cut off along the middle of the sidewalls. For inserting into a studded rear tire - protects the tube from the studded caps. It is more loaded in the middle rows of thorn screws, small-diameter caps are more prominent.

I installed a thick-walled strip under the rear tire, and a thinner one under the front. One thinner is a spare. Bicycle tubes are inflated, Schwalbe used, at a price of 240 rubles - ordinary, but made of high quality rubber. I bought it from Leader-Sport, on the street. K. Marx.

Rear tire from the inside, visible camera-gasket with traces of the heads of the studs. There were no breakthroughs, there was not even a hint of abrasion - the "gaskets" can be thin.

Testing

This is the most exciting and interesting thing that happened from the Dark Pad station and when crossing Lake Baikal on the ice.

In the beginning, of course, I drove to the central passenger station on the asphalt.

The first impression is the sound, as from a dog running on linoleum or parquet with its claws extended, but stronger. We are going with a friend who has no spikes on his wheels. But since there is no ice, we go quickly and as if without stress, although we are careful not to slip and farther from the cars.

The experience of skating on the rink was surprising, but only for a moment - ordinary skating, turns and braking without problems. But there were no cars with pedestrians on the rink.

So there were no unusual impressions. I tried to slow down sharply, turn around - it's normal. It seemed that my friend was less confident without thorns, but this did not seem to be a certain indicator. We are going by train to Dark Deep. How will it be there?

We arrived, looked down at the path and ... drove. At first slowly, and then somehow inexplicably confident and risking more and more. Braking with the rear wheel, helping and dragging with one foot in the snow, like motocrossmen, and even accelerating and bouncing in some areas. Horror. Suicide slope.

I look around - my friend is gone, his bike too. I had to dismount and search. It turns out that, braking with the rear wheel and discovering that this did not work in any way on the steep slopes of the track, he began to slow down with the front one, but this did not help on a snow-covered trail. He began to accelerate and ran over a piece of soil exposed from the snow. The front wheel, blocked by the brake, and it had rims, stopped both of them and threw one, over the handlebars of the other, down the hill. But somehow silently - he did not have time to get scared and cry out. Then the bike flew off to the same place. One lies below, in deep snow in silence, and the other, turning its wheels in an inexplicable position, ten meters away. The one without wheels responds with some phrase from an anecdote and unprintable about a close relative. The snowdrifts accepted both flawlessly - they flew alongside huge stones and lying tree trunks.

Looking not at the action described above, for the first time I became proud of my cycling. After all, I never slipped, although I was afraid a lot.

Further down, on the Angasolka river, there was a super test. I ride down the path to the bridge, and from it onto the bumpy ice - snow on top, a layer of wet sludge under it, and ice at a depth of 5-10 cm. I drove to the tree, looked around, and my friend bypasses this ice disfigurement along the slope with a bicycle on his shoulder. Shouts that it is impossible not only to drive, but even to walk - it is slippery and wet. Once you fall and continue to go, you will have to wet.

I let go of the tree and food, no sensations, normal driving, only splashes of sludge to the sides. I even liked it, I rode in different directions, because the ice on the river is bumpy and inclined, like the slope. Amazing, no hesitation, the ride is as easy as dry and hard gravel. I didn't want to go further, an absolutely unusual feeling from ordinary confident riding - you ride easily, switch, accelerate, slow down, but this is a very slippery and uneven place, more slippery than just ice. I didn’t go to such places yet, but on the contrary, I avoided.

While we were driving to Lake Baikal, out of interest, I chose the opportunity to ride on the ice of the river, where it is under sludge, wet, bumpy and whatever - the ride is absolutely normal, there is no stress so as not to slip. It is easy to slide onto the ice and drive back to the shore where the trail goes.

On the shore of the lake, several skiers took skis with sticks in their hands, and went to the snow drift in order to ski across it to Slyudyanka.

Looking at the absolutely even and smooth ice, I was a little at a loss - how will it ride? But having driven down on it, I heard the noise from the thorns and everything ... no other feelings - as if on a flat road. I accelerate, I brake, I make turns such that I almost fell several times, jumped - bucked as best I could and ... NOTHING. It’s even strange, because this is exactly how you can ride on smooth asphalt. He began to scoff at himself and the bike, but no maneuvers or brakes managed to slip or make a skid either on the ice or on a thin crust. True, he turned over the steering wheel several times, both straight and sideways. On that day, only a friend had problems - he was driving no faster than 6-9 km / h, and then on lowered tires. On normally inflated even 3 km / h, the problem is that it fell, slipped every 5-10 meters. I can't imagine how many bruises and bumps I brought home. True, I also brought it - from flights over the steering wheel. One of the flights was due to the fact that one rear wheel braked sharply.

The main impression is the same - NO IMPRESSIONS - normal riding without problems and uncertainty. Self-spikes "stick" to ice or a dense snowy road much better than new tires for summer clean asphalt.

Another time to the Angasolka river, drove along the highway and gravel road for almost 20 km - I did not lag behind, sometimes even drove forward on the slopes, although everyone with whom they rode in a small "gang", except me, rode on branded spikes.

We went down to Baikal past the village of Angasolka on a frozen dirt road. I, along the crooked and wet ice on the Angasolka River, and those on the brand spikes, along the path. The owners of the "firm" tried, one even fell, and stopped taking risks - driving on wet ice, and on Lake Baikal they did not risk sharp maneuvers, but in a straight line they could race with firms on an equal footing. True, at the "firm", they could afford to press the rear brake sharply and strongly - the rear wheel skidded slightly to the side, and I could fly through the steering wheel.

It is a pity that I did not take the camera and there are no pictures of those tests. Twice he drove in a company with Diagran (who knows) on his spikes both on the highway and on the snow and on the ice of Lake Baikal - you can't keep up with him and on the highways on the asphalt, he drives his usual branded spikes on ice at 35 km / h - a monster.

On the train, when setting the bike, there was no fear that clothes or fleece gloves could be torn on homemade spikes, I took it on purpose.

By the spring, it became noticeable how blunt - the drills of the thorns become semicircular, but this did not affect the holding force on the ice and rolled snow. True, due to the fact that the spikes have become a little shorter, it seems to be easier to ride on asphalt and ice. And yet - the more dull the spikes-drills, the slower their abrasion occurs - the contact surface area increases. It becomes approximately equal to the area of hardened studs, as in branded bicycle tires, without victorious inserts. I hit about 700 km with thorns in the first winter, I don’t know more precisely, because the bike speedometer "died" after 600 km. On asphalt and concrete with ice, it turned out about 100 km, another 250 km on gravel and dirt roads, the rest about 400 km on ice and dense snow.

I think that during my operation, it will be enough to drive until some of the studs are replaced, at least 1500 km.
A theory proven by practice

The proposed cleat angle was obtained from the reasoning that the greatest shear load on the cleat when braking. And in order for the spike to "bite" into the ice in the best way, it must be installed at a negative angle to the support plane when moving forward.

Lateral spikes are also at a negative angle to the plane of support from the corresponding side, as when driving on a slope or when cornering at speed. And since under shear load, the studs will deflect in the elastic rubber of the tire, this deflection will be less, due to the thicker rubber behind the stud and the greater resilience of the thicker rubber layer.

I did not begin to glue the gasket between the bicycle camera and the caps of the self-tapping screws, since the gluing will not be tight, and water and dust will get in the leak - dirt in it, and it is not difficult to insert and remove this gasket.

How does the water get there?

Let's say you had to ride in wet places, and then remove the tire and the camera in the warmth - water from the inner volume of the rim will flow into the tire.

And you need a lot of glue - 2-3 full tubes per wheel. With a mediocre result - poor gluing quality. After all, the embossed caps will interfere with the ability to stick the rubber of the trimmed chamber to the inside of the tire. And with a thick layer of glue, "chewing" sounds will be emitted, which happened when gluing bicycle tubes to road bicycle wheels on an unnecessarily thick layer of glue - not a high-quality gluing. And since it is impossible to achieve high-quality gluing, why do it badly? After all, if you have to replace any spike, you still have to tear off the gluing.

I hope what turned out in the end, and what gave me the opportunity to be convinced of the correctness of my guesses and the work applied, will help those who are not afraid to spend labor, accuracy and attention for the final result - riding a bike where it was impossible before, but with with such tires it is safe and pleasant.

Recently, to make the ride easier, I decided to pump up the wheels harder. Actually, I didn’t pump them much, but the way everyone usually pumps up the wheels in the summer. I went on business, and on the way back I had a flat rear tire. At home, I pulled out the tire, found two strange holes in the camera, despite the fact that the camera lining was intact. I didn’t get worn out and just taped up the camera. The next day I went on a night ride and on the way my front wheel flattened. The thoughts began to creep into my head that this was the work of self-tapping screws, or rather, of self-tapping hats, which could damage the camera. I disassembled the wheel, pulled out the camera and for sure - the whole camera was in noticeable marks from the caps of the screws, and the hole was exactly along the edge of the mark. In short, it was clearly visible that the screw cap was the cause of the damage to the camera.

There are 3 or 4 such damages on the camera. Moreover, this is not a hole; the chamber does not allow air to pass through. But, of course, you don't want to ride with such a camera, because the crack can open at any moment. Let me remind you that an old camera played the role of a gasket. As you can see, it is clearly not enough.

On a note

After inspecting both wheels, it turned out that only the front wheel was damaged. The rear wheel camera is fine. This is most likely due to the fact that the length of the screws on the front wheel is 2 times longer than on the rear. This is logical: when braking, 2-3 central screws bite into the asphalt / ice and, if they protrude strongly, they bite into the camera with the edge of the cap. Almost the same when hitting curbs. Hence, we can conclude that it is not advisable to leave the screws protruding more than 1.5 mm. In addition, if there are a lot of self-tapping screws in the central row, then a larger number of self-tapping screws will work during braking, which means that the camera will be less affected.

What to do?

It became clear that only one gasket camera was missing. Also, a strip of adhesive plaster will not be enough. In several places on the web, I have seen people using a piece of linoleum as a spacer. I didn't have any extra linoleum, but I remembered an old semi-slick tire gathering dust on the balcony. I cut off the sides and inserted it into the front tire. I had to cut it a little to make it fit. If you do the same, trim the tire very carefully, because if you cut off the excess, there will be a gap between the ends of the spacer tire, which will damage the tire. To avoid this, I sealed the joint with a piece of rubber from the first aid kit.

The wheel has become noticeably heavier and this is bad. On the other hand, if done correctly, I will be almost completely puncture-proof and will be able to inflate the wheels a lot to make the ride easier. Some might say that in winter you need to drive at low pressure, but when there are studs, there is simply no need to increase the working surface area.

Because I have one extra camera spacer left, I decided to add it to the rear wheel. A double chamber spacer should suffice.

Honestly, I don’t know what will come of it and how much more difficult it will be to ride. I decided on a desperate act: to make a lining between the camera and the tire from ... a tire. It sounds scary, but in fact, everything is so =) An old semi-slick tire was found on the balcony, the sides were cut off from it. The tire itself was also cut and shortened a little, because it simply did not fit inside the working tire. I covered the resulting joint with a piece of rubber so that the corners of the tire would not damage the camera. The resulting spacer was installed on the front wheel. On the back, I used as many as three (how many were old, I put in as many) cameras as a spacer.

Naturally, the bike became noticeably heavy after such a mockery. To be honest, I assumed that I would not be able to maintain 20 km / h all the time. However, I drove about 35 km normally.

After driving about 100km on these wheels, I disassembled the rear wheel to see how the camera felt. On the rear wheel, let me remind you, 3 old cameras act as gaskets. On detailed examination, no damage, tears or scratches were found. On the camera there were only soft, not sharp prints from the screw heads and nothing more. As I thought, it turned out to be an impenetrable option. The wheels, although noticeably heavier, are quite possible to drive.

I would also like to say about the wear and tear of self-tapping screws. The fact that the rear wheel will not be enough for the whole winter is for sure. On it, the central screws have worn off very much.
Basically, what else can you expect in such a snowless winter? If there was snow, everything would be fine. But I think when the screws protrude only 0.2-0.3 mm, the erasing process will slow down. When they are completely worn out, I plan to unscrew them and screw in new ones. I think to screw in a little more, tk. the more self-tapping screws (and they do not weigh much), the less wear will be. On the front wheel, the screws both stick out by 2-2.5mm and stick out. Even the central ones have not been erased. This is very good considering that the front wheel is responsible for road control.

You can find many fans not only to eat ice cream in winter, but also to ride a bike, regardless of weather conditions. And some in this way strive to reduce the travel time - after all, it is easier to quickly get there in your two-wheeled vehicle than to splash on the slush for a long time, getting your feet wet. If you are an autumn lover and you probably wondered how to make studded rubber for a bicycle with your own hands. It's no secret that factory-made studded tires cost fabulous money, and this even applies to tires made in China. What can we say about branded models?

On the roads there are pits, ledges, stones, which are much more difficult to notice in puddles and slush, under ice and snow. This means that it is much easier to damage the tire in the autumn-winter period. And if it's expensive and needs to be changed again, the burden on your budget can become overwhelming. There is a way out - to make spikes on a bicycle with your own hands. It's much easier than it sounds, and it probably won't take more than a couple of hours. At the same time, the cost of the necessary parts is minimal. So, let's spike your bike.

Items you will need

Bicycle tire.

The tire itself, which we will spike. You can buy an inexpensive one, or you can take it, even an erased one, which you planned to throw away. It is quite suitable to practice and understand how to make cleats on a bicycle, and it is likely that it will last a lot, and if necessary, you can easily make another. But if you are choosing a new tire, it is better to give preference to the one with deeper tread. It is advisable that there is a thicker layer of rubber in the places where you will add the spikes.

Self-tapping screws with a wide head.

Self-tapping screws 4.2 × 13 mm are best suited. The fact is that part of the self-tapping screw will go into the rubber, and another part will be erased while driving. Therefore, shorter self-tapping screws may be short-lived, but if there is no other option, then you can take a shorter one. A wide head is needed for good fixing of the self-tapping screw on the inside of the tire. In terms of quantity, you need as many screws as there are studs you want to add to your bike.

Super glue.

Anyone that you have at hand will do. A universal super glue will be enough. But if you are choosing a glue specifically for making a studded bicycle tire, you can use a super glue for rubber.

Awl or drill with a thin drill.

Of course, it will be much easier for you with a drill, but if you don't have a drill, a regular awl will do.

Phillips screwdriver suitable for self-tapping screws.
Old bicycle camera.

Put all the items next to you, take care of good lighting, as you have to find small holes in the tire, and get to work!

Instructions for making studded rubber

Next, we give detailed instructions on how to make a studded one. Of course, first of all, the tire must be disassembled. After that, examine it and select the places where the thorns will be. As mentioned above, it is better to choose places where the rubber is thicker, because the screws will hold on more firmly in it and there will be no tears. You can also make cleats on the side of the tire so that they point towards the ground at an angle. They will make it easier for you to ride your bike, as the side cleats will make it easier to take turns on an icy road.

It is best to make four rows of studs: two rows on the bottom of the tire and two rows on the sides.

Now let's start directly with the process. Take a drill or an awl and punch a hole through the tread where the first spike will be. There is a little trick here that will greatly simplify the work.

Important! Puncture the outside, not the inside. This way, you will see exactly where the spike will come out, and will not fall into the thin section of rubber.

Then, from the inside of the tire, squeeze a drop of superglue into the hole. Take a self-tapping screw and use a screwdriver to screw it into the hole until it stops. It is not necessary to overtighten so as not to create an additional load on the rubber. At the same time, the head of the screw must fit snugly enough to the tire for the superglue to hold it in place.

Important! Insert each screw immediately after piercing. If you make all the punctures first, and then start inserting the screws, it will be very difficult for you to find the holes, especially if your tire is black on the inside.

Now you have a rather monotonous job of adding all the spikes. But it won't take too long. And when your tire is studded with spikes around the entire circumference, having acquired a rather futuristic look, you can rejoice at the results of your labor: do-it-yourself studded rubber for a bicycle is ready!

There is only one final, but not insignificant detail left: it is necessary to make a gasket so that the screw heads do not wipe the camera of your bike. The easiest way to make such a gasket is from an old chamber. But you can get creative and use pieces of leather or other material. If nothing like this is at hand, just slit the old tube lengthwise and wrap it around your bike tube. You can lubricate it from the inside with superglue for better fixation. Put on your new studded rubber on top and go ahead, you can test it!

Be prepared for the fact that at first a variety of debris, dry leaves and other objects caught underneath will cling to the thorns. But over time, the screws will become a little dull and this problem will disappear. Good luck on the road!

In order to feel confident on winter roads, it is better to have studded tires. Such tires can be bought ready-made, or you can perform a studding operation in your own garage.

Choice of studs for winter tires

Shipovka is not such a time-consuming job. The car owner only needs to be careful when installing studs and comply with a number of requirements.

Choice of materials

To start studding rubber, the master needs:

Pneumatic stud gun;
- thorns;
- new winter tires.

It is worthwhile to carefully approach both the choice of rubber and the purchase of a set of studs. Rubber must be bought with pre-drilled holes. These tires are originally designed to be studded. It will be difficult to install spikes in rubber without holes, because it can be damaged during the operation.

The thorns are different. There are two main types of tire studs: single flanged and double flanged. Double flanged studs are purchased when the driver intends to drive the car at extreme speeds. If the owner of the car plans to quickly drive on the tracks, then it makes sense to purchase such studs. Single flange products are designed primarily for quiet driving in the city. They perfectly withstand the loads that fall on the tires at medium speeds.

Another important characteristic is the length of the tenon. The product should not protrude outward from the tire by more than 1.3 mm. Therefore, it is better to purchase studs in the same place as tires, so that you can choose the right products.

Installation of thorns

To start installing the studs, you need to take the tire and fix it. The tire should not be mobile, otherwise it can ruin the whole work. The surface of the rubber must be moistened with soapy water. This is to facilitate the passage of the stud into the hole in the tire.

When the rubber is installed and wetted, the owner needs to take the air gun and fix its tabs in the cleat hole. Tire spikes are poured into the pistol beforehand. When the legs of the pistol are locked, you can squeeze the trigger. Before pulling the trigger, you need to be sure that the tool itself is positioned exactly in relation to the hole. There should be no distortions.

When the spike is installed, it is necessary to check the quality of its installation. A spike that was installed skewed is better to remove. On the road, it will only interfere, but there is little benefit from it. Sometimes the cleat protrudes too much from the tread surface. In this case, it must be driven in deeper. This requires an aluminum sheet and a hammer. If all else fails, then the spike can be pulled out of the tire very easily before the foam has dried. While the tires are dry, you can check.
After installation

Tires that have just been studded cannot be used immediately. It is necessary that they simply "rest" for some time. As long as the tires are lying down, they adapt to the stretch and load that the studs put in. At the same time, the soap foam dries up completely. It tightly grips the cleats in the holes and prevents them from falling out while riding.

After a few days, the tires can be fitted. Immediately after installation, do not accelerate strongly and make sharp turns. It is advisable to drive within 60 km per hour. These rules are relevant both after the installation of single-flanged studs and after the installation of double-flanged products. When the tires have already traveled 300 - 350 km, you can accelerate. At first, while the driver is just rolling the tires, some of the spikes may fly out of them. You do not need to install them back. The fact is that during the departure, the spike deforms the hole itself. Therefore, having installed it back, there is no need to wait for it to hold on.

Studding winter tires is quite realistic. Another question, is it necessary to do it yourself? If you need to restore studs on one set of rubber, even two, the procedure simply won't pay off. Firstly, you need to know which repair studs to choose depending on the wheel, stud socket, etc. Secondly, you need a special pneumatic gun (plus a compressor), with this equipment the cost of work increases significantly. Well, and thirdly, you need experience in such work, otherwise the rubber can simply be ruined. It is much more logical to contact any tire service for studding a personal set of winter tires. They have different kits for any wheel, the installation of one spike is estimated at about 15-20 rubles.
You should also be aware of some of the disadvantages of this method of restoring rubber, although they are not critical. The repair spike has a round shape, which means that the grip on ice will be slightly worse (if the rubber was expensive and with a special spike shape). On the other hand, a rounded spike is much better than an empty socket. Universal studs have less height, which also affects the effectiveness of the engagement. Any restoration will be slightly worse than the original system. But repair studs are still better than a studless winter tire. After studding, the tire performance is restored by 80%. This means that the tires with moderate use will be able to last for several more seasons.

It is a shame when most of the tread height of winter tires is still preserved and performs its functions perfectly, and half of the studs have already fallen out of their nests. Is it time to throw out the tires or can they be refurbished? Some motorists prefer to fit new winter tires with their own hands. Self-studding of tires allows you to use high-quality materials and reduces material costs for the purchase of new tires.

Metal spikes

Spikes are not of the same type. They are divided according to the following parameters:

Material. Products are made from alloys: aluminum, steel or plastic.
The form. There are basic shapes: round, oval, tetrahedral. In practice, there are a lot of different forms of these products.
Core type. There are products with a solid insert in the form of a tube, a rod, and so on.
Single and double flanged studs. The latter should be installed with an aggressive driving style.

When choosing studs, consider: riding speed, driving style, tire characteristics, tread height. When re-studding, pay attention to the size of the attachment points of the dropped out spikes, as a rule, the nests are slightly broken: it makes sense to use a larger diameter of the products. Native thorns will not stick to broken nests.

It is not difficult to put studding elements at home, you must adhere to the following rules:

The cleat must not protrude more than 1.3 mm from the rubber. This criterion is taken into account when choosing the height of the studs.
Tires should be studded 1-3 months before the onset of the winter season, the inserted studding elements will be compressed more tightly with rubber during this period and will last longer.
A prerequisite for a long service life of studded rubber is tire run-in. It consists in driving a car (300 km. Run) without exceeding the speed (up to 80 km / h) and additional loads on the wheels.

Preparatory and repair work

To install studs on winter tires with your own hands, you must:

Use tires suitable for studding:

friction products or models with special holes for studding elements;
the tread of the tires must meet permissible standards, it cannot be badly worn out;
the age of tires should preferably not be more than four years.

Studded and non-studded product, respectively

Quality spikes.

You can spike tires in three ways:

Manual method. Carried out using a hammer, screwdriver and soapy water. The advantage of such repair work is their cost, it is low due to the absence of the need to buy additional equipment.
Semi-automatic method. Installation of studs in holes is performed using a drill with low speed or a screwdriver using a special attachment. The speed of studding is greatly increased. The complexity of this method lies in the need to correctly hold the studding element so that it enters the rubber evenly.
Auto. It involves the use of a pneumatic gun, with the help of which the studding elements are installed in the attachment points. Labor productivity when using the specified pistol is increased. The downside is the high cost of the equipment. For a single spike procedure, buying a pneumatic gun will certainly not be profitable.

Consider the process of studding tires without special holes for studs. It is quite time consuming, it is performed as follows:

Make holes for the studs with a drill (use a special drill) or use an awl and hammer.
Secure the tire.
Mark the installation locations of the studding elements yourself, for this use the corrector.
Apply soapy water to the surface of the tire - this will make it easier to install the studs into the mounting slots.
Put the spike in the place of attachment, install it.
Check the protrusion of the installed product above the tire surface using a caliper, if the height is more than 1.5 mm, set the stud a little deeper.
If the spike does not enter the rubber evenly, remove it with pliers.

Installation of studding elements in tires with special holes for studs is carried out in a similar way, while labor productivity increases several times. There is no need to make special holes in the tire for fastening the studs.

Tire recovery

Re-pinning with the use of a pneumatic gun

Do-it-yourself installation of studs on winter tires is used for re-studding and for studding tires. The studding process makes it possible to equip winter tires according to the individual operating conditions of the machine. Re-studding prolongs the life of tires, makes it possible to restore them.

Tires with worn out or fallen off spikes are suitable for carrying out these works. To replace missing or worn out spike elements, special products are used. They have an enlarged head, so they can be installed in the broken mounting slots. The sequence of repair work when re-studding tires does not differ much from the methods of primary studding of rubber. It has only one difference: before installing new studs, you need to clean the nests of dirt particles, dust, remnants of old stud elements.

Conclusion

Studding or studding of winter tires can be done at home because does not require special skills. When using high-quality accessories for studding, you can significantly increase the service life of tires. The implementation of these procedures provides the following advantages:

the opportunity to choose quality products for studding;
reduction in cash costs for new tires;
equipping tires for the operating conditions of the machine;
increasing the resource of tires.

You can do everything yourself, but of course, in most cases, it will be easier and faster to contact a tire workshop. Today, many services provide a spike restoration service. In any case, it doesn't matter if you spike yourself or in a tire changer - this is usually much cheaper than buying new winter tires.