Traditional carpentry workbench do-it-yourself drawings. Do-it-yourself construction and arrangement of a carpentry workbench. Video: folding workbench table

Every home craftsman can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands. It takes a lot of time for this work, but the benefits of a well-equipped workplace cover both labor costs and investments in building material. In this article you will find full information for the independent construction of workbenches for carpentry.

Carpentry workbench - workplace optimization

A comfortable work surface is useful to any master. A carpenter needs a well-equipped work area more than other specialists. After all, he will have to deal with large-sized workpieces, the length of which reaches 3 meters, and in this case he cannot do without a well-designed workspace. Even a simplified folding workbench allows you to process timber or boards and assemble products from the resulting blanks. A large tabletop with stops makes it possible to fix the lumber in any position, processing not only the surfaces, but also the edges of the timber or board. A special vise will help fix the workpiece during sawing, drilling or joining several elements.

In addition, you can store parts of future products, tools and all sorts of household trifles in drawers and on the shelves of the workbench. Moreover, not only a carpentry version made of wood, but also a metal workbench, assembled on the basis of steel corners, can be turned into a convenient storage. At the same time, a master who is not too familiar with construction can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands, organizing and optimizing the space in the working room. To do this, you will need general drawings or an understanding of the design of the workbench, Construction Materials and step by step assembly instructions. You can find all of this below.

Varieties and arrangement of workbenches for carpenters

In modern carpentry, only three schemes for the design of workbenches are used. Firstly, the mobile version is a portable design that can be installed even on a balcony. This model is also useful for those masters who wish to receive universal workbench for metalwork and carpentry. The main advantage of this option is its small size, the main disadvantage is a small storage area. You can't put all the tools in such a table.

Secondly, a stationary workbench is an option for a full-fledged workshop. To accommodate this model, you need a spacious room, but it will fit into large garage. This workbench can be both wooden and steel - it is possible to assemble any structure, because it does not need to be moved. The main advantage of the model is its wide functionality, multiplied by an extensive storage space. The main disadvantage is the size and the need for a large amount of building materials.

Thirdly, modular design - workbenches of this type occupy an intermediate position between stationary and mobile options. The model structure allows you to build up and shorten the carpentry table, legs and other elements. Therefore, the main advantage of this option is the combination of optimal dimensions and functionality. And the main disadvantage is the complicated design. Building a modular metal workbench with your own hands is not so easy, and you may have problems with wood.

Eventually optimal model for self construction should be recognized stationary version because mobile doesn't provide all the benefits and modular is too complicated at build time. At the same time, regardless of belonging to one of the varieties, any workbench contains the following structural elements:

• Support (frame, frame) - a system of vertical and horizontal beams that hold the tabletop, workpieces and tools.
• Work surface (tabletop) - in the language of professionals, this element is called a workbench. It makes all the necessary grooves and recesses for the stops, which are useful for fixing the workpieces being processed. Therefore, such a board must be massive and reliable.
• The front vise and box are essentially huge clamping blocks that compete with clamps. They fix the workpieces at an angle to the plane of the desktop, pressing them against the side edges of the tabletop. Moreover, a folding workbench has only one vice, and a stationary one has at least a couple of clamping blocks.
• Shelves are storage areas that are located under the countertop.

And all these parts, with the exception of some parts of the clamping block made of metal (screws and nuts), are assembled from wood, which simplifies the selection of structural materials for building a workbench.

What materials are needed for assembly - getting ready to work

You will be able to build a carpentry or locksmith workbench with your own hands only if you get the following materials:

• Plywood sheet with a thickness of 18-20 millimeters and overall dimensions of 2.5 × 1.25 meters. And try to choose a perfectly flat sheet, without bubbles and dips on the surface - it will go to the countertop.
• Bar 10 × 10 and 6 × 6 centimeters. The frame will be assembled from these elements, therefore, we need about 4 meters of "ten" (for legs and crossbars) and at least three meters of "six" (for strengthening elements). At the same time, try to choose a timber without knots and cracks.
• Boards 2 meters long - they will come in handy during the assembly of the countertop. And upon completion of them you can.

In addition, we will need the following tools: a drill with a pen and conventional drills, a circular saw(disk), clamps, glue Moment(for wood), square, level, bolts with nuts and furniture self-tapping screws with corrosion protection. After all these materials and tools are purchased and brought to the place of placement and assembly, you can build a workbench out of wood with your own hands, based on our step-by-step instructions.

Do-it-yourself assembly - step by step instructions

Before you do, try to read this instruction from beginning to end, scrolling through all the assembly steps described below in your head. If you understand the whole procedure, then independent production workbench will take you a minimum of personal time. Moreover, our step-by-step instructions are designed for people with minimal experience in carpentry. Well, the assembly process itself is as follows.

At the first stage, we assemble the table. For this plywood sheet shorten to 1.52 meters circular saw and divide into two parts. As a result, two blanks with dimensions of 1.52 × 0.61 meters remain in the hands of the master. They will serve as the basis for the countertop. And the rest of 0.98 × 1.25 will be useful to us in the future. The next step is gluing the array of the workbench table from two plywood blanks. To do this, grease their surfaces with glue and, having folded the plywood boards, tighten them with clamps, and a 30-kilogram load can be placed on the central part. Moreover, three 1.5-meter boards must be placed under the clamps, providing a snug fit when placed along the long edge of the sheet.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the fact that when gluing plywood sheets must be connected by convex sides (when superimposed on each other), otherwise the entire array will turn into an arc, which is undesirable. Next, we move on to reinforcing the 36mm glued array. To do this, we need to cut strips 15 centimeters wide from the remnants of the plywood panel and glue them around the perimeter, with reverse side countertops. The end result should be a 54mm thick table made up of three 18mm layers of plywood. Moreover, the amplifier strips will play the role of stiffeners.

After that, we cut the array to the dimensions of 1.5 × 0.6 meters. This step will allow you to trim the ends, eliminating the overlays and protrusions that formed during the assembly of the countertop from three layers of plywood. The trimming itself is carried out with a circular saw at a low tool feed. The circular paper must be driven very slowly over the plywood, otherwise you will get torn edges. The next stage is the assembly of the vertical elements of the frame. To do this, we saw a beam of 10 × 10 centimeters into four segments 0.9 meters long. We get vertical supports. And as prolegs (lower screed between vertical beams) and tsarg (upper screed) we will use a beam of 6 × 6 centimeters, cutting out the corresponding grooves in the legs. The attachment points of the prolegs and the tsarg should be smeared with glue and reinforced with bolts or self-tapping screws.

Next, we must install the vertical supports at the location of the workbench and assemble the entire frame by pulling them together using horizontal longitudinal ties. They can be made from a beam of 6 × 6 centimeters, fixed in a spike or overlap, on bolts or self-tapping screws.

We will lay shelves from 1.5-meter boards on the lower screeds, and a countertop on the upper ones. Therefore, before attaching the screeds, we must track the vertical and horizontal of the assembled frame. Otherwise, the table will be tilted. The fastening of the table top to the bed is carried out with 8 mm self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be drowned in the holes drilled with a pen drill. Before fastening, the table is pulled to the upper longitudinal screeds and drawers with clamps.

This completes the assembly of the table, and we can proceed to the installation of the vise. Moreover, not everyone can make a carpentry vise for a workbench with their own hands. Therefore, we suggest that beginners pay attention to ready-made models, the installation of which occurs in the following sequence: we fasten a fixed vise jaw to the end of the table, and fix a threaded element on it. We pass two threaded guides through the holes in the movable sponge, screw them into the fixed sponge. We insert the handles into the heads of the guides, by rotating which you can move the movable part of the vise to the stationary one.

Once the vise assembly is completed, you can use the workbench as you wish. Moreover, round or rectangular holes for stops can be cut into the countertop as needed, positioning them as you like.

The garage is a multifunctional space. In it, you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.

If a person likes to spend time in the garage, doing repairs, you need to properly equip your workplace. A workbench is a multifunctional desktop that can be used to process various materials, carry out metalwork, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can think of shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.

Types of workbenches

Workbenches are made for processing metal (locksmith) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. Locksmith models have a countertop in without fail must be metal, as working with metal involves the use of engine oil and other liquids that can leave marks on a wooden surface.

Also, when processing metal parts, effort is often required, the use of a sharp tool, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal worktop.

Carpentry workbenches are designed to work with wood, so they are not as durable and functional as locksmith models.

Workbench design

If the design of the desktop in the garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully consider every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the table in the garage depends on this.

Standard models are often equipped drawers which can be made from wood or metal. Also, the design of the table can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tools, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.

Tool

Bulgarian with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.

Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective devices for welding.

2. Screwdriver.

   Jigsaw for cutting plywood.

materials

Corner 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.

Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.

Corner 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.

Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.

Steel sheet for countertop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.

Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.

Wooden boards for countertops. Thickness 50 mm.

Plywood for the manufacture of drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15mm

Guides for drawers.

Screws for assembling plywood boxes.

Self-tapping screws for metal.

Anchor bolts.

Paint for wood and metal.

The workbench, which will be made from these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: the length of the table is 220 cm, the width is 75 cm.

The first step in the manufacture of a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. The profile pipe is intended for the manufacture of the frame. The steel corner is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.

The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. Also, this material will go to the brackets for attaching boxes and plywood.

Table drawers are made of plywood.

The second step is welding power frame workbench. The elements of the countertop are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the countertop, it is required to weld a few more after 40 cm steel pipes, which will act as stiffeners.

Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power jumpers are welded between the legs, strengthening the structure.

After the base frame is ready, you can start welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. Frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.

The third step is to make a frame for the countertop. Two steel corners, 2200 mm long and two more corners 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards lie inside it.

The frame from the corner is laid on the frame of pipes and welded. It turns out a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.

The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to weld the crate of the panel for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle, for reinforcement. The toolbar is welded to the worktop.

The frame of the corners and pipes is ready. You can start strengthening the structure. Brackets are welded to the sidewalls of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls of the plywood table will be attached to the metal frame of the workbench.

The fourth stage is the manufacture of drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are twisted with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If the details are small, then 3 boxes can be built, if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.

You can place drawers on two sides of the table, you can mount pull-out structures on one half, and ordinary open shelves on the second.

After the drawers are assembled, metal strips with holes need to be welded between the sides of the drawer compartments. Slides for drawer guides will be attached to these holes on the inside.

The fifth stage is laying the boards in the tabletop frame. Boards with a thickness of 50 mm are cut into blanks of a certain length. If a long board is available, then you need three blanks 245 mm wide and 2190 mm long. If there are no long boards available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 blanks 740 mm long.

Before laying the wood in the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.

Then, without fail, it is required to paint the entire metal structure workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weatherproof and anti-corrosive coating option. Be especially careful when painting welding seams. Drops of metal and irregularities are recommended to be thoroughly cleaned before painting. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.

After the structure is dry, you can start laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree tends to expand and shrink with a change in temperature and humidity. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will make it easier to lay the metal sheet on top of the wood. Boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The sixth stage is the fastening of the upper steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach the steel sheet with hidden self-tapping screws to wooden planks. Previously, the metal must be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paintwork, easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal countertop with the same paint that covered the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time, the paint may scratch and the table will not look too new.

The last step is to install the boxes on the rails and fasten the plywood to the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called finishing workbench. After work with plywood is over, it must be coated with a compound that will protect the material from exposure environment. Also, do not forget about the design of the power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, to which the necessary things will be hung.

In order to make it convenient to work at the workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bending stand to the power shield. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the right place.

Video - The process of making a workbench

Installing a vice on a locksmith's workbench

The vise is an indispensable attribute locksmith workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool weighing several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket between the metal of the table and the tool, 1 cm thick. It is required to drill holes in the gasket for anchor bolts. Then, in the same places, drill holes in the countertop of the same size. The whole structure is fastened with anchor bolts.

Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design

1. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garage is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But, it is worth knowing that the whole structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
2. The workplace should be organized in such a way that nothing interferes with a person. When working with a vise, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the countertop.
3. The corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp and have cutting edges.
4. After repair work behind the workbench you need to clean the workplace from metal shavings, drops of oil and other materials.
5. If a homemade workbench made correctly, it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.

Shield plywood

Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage

1. Glue the front beam from several layers BUT and trim to final size (Fig. 1 and 1a). Then cut grooves in it with a width of 19 and a depth of 41 mm (Fig. 1a, photo A and AT).

Brief advice! Do not glue the parts of the milling template, but fasten them only with screws. The template will again be needed to slot into the rear vise block which is wider than the cover front bar.

From a couple of pieces of thick board and 12 mm thick material, assemble a simple template for milling at an angle of 2 ° grooves, which will become holes for the bench stops.

When cutting slots in the front bar with a 12mm helical cutter and a 19mm guide sleeve, remove the material little by little, gradually increasing the depth.

2. Cut out the overlay AT and glue it to the front beam, aligning the right ends of the parts. Carefully remove the squeezed out excess glue.

3. Using the template usually supplied with the front vise, mark and drill the holes for the rods. (photo C, fig. 1).

Position the mounting template so that the vise holes do not intersect with the bench rest holes in the A/B front bar. Mark the centers of the holes with an awl.

Note. This project uses a front and back viseLee Valley. They differ good quality workmanship, smooth operation and come with detailed instructions by installation.

4. Now make the cover shield With, lower pads for the front D and rear E vice, spacer F and rear bar G. Glue the trims, back rail, spacer and front rail to the lid (Fig. 1).

5. Make the left and right tips H, I (Fig. 2). Form tongues 36 mm wide and 57 mm deep along one side of the tips and drill 12 mm holes.

Brief advice! To quickly make clean and tidy sheet piles, remove most of the material with a slotted disc and then smooth the sides and bottom with a router table.

6. Mill on the ends of the cover A-G rebate on both sides 57 mm wide and 36 mm deep (a photoD), to form combs that are inserted into the tongues of the tips H, I.

Use the tip as a guide to cut the folds on the lid. Be careful not to hit the front trim B with the cutter.

7. Place the left tip on the comb H by pushing it to the front pad AT. Right tip I align with the front edge of the shield With. Mark the centers of the 12mm holes (photo E). Remove the tips and use the awl to mark other centers, moving them 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the combs (a photoF). Spend parallel lines, stepping back 6 mm on both sides of each mark left by the awl so that the distance between the lines is 12 mm.

Use the point of a 12 mm drill to transfer the centers of the holes in the tips H, I to the ridges of the cover.

Move the centers of the holes 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the comb so that when driving in the dowels, the tip with the cover is pulled tighter.

With a thin round rasp, process all holes except the first. Do not go beyond the parallel lines so that the parts fit snugly.

8. Drill 12 mm holes according to the marking. Then, starting at the second hole (counting from the front edge of the lid), increase it 2mm on both sides without going beyond the parallel lines to make an oval 16mm long. Do the same with other holes, increasing the length of each next by 1.5 mm in both directions (a photoG, rice. 2). This will allow the lid to change its width with seasonal fluctuations in humidity. In the right tip I cut 57x165mm flush with the bottom of the spacer F and the end of the bottom lining E.

9. Put on the tips H, I on the combs and secure with 12mm hardwood dowels, driving them into the holes without using glue. Saw off the protruding ends of the dowels flush with the upper and lower edges of the tips.

Brief advice! To facilitate the installation of tips, take dowels of increased length and make narrowing at their ends.

Add a vise

1. From scraps, assemble a frame that will limit the area of ​​​​movement of the router when selecting a recess in the bottom plate D for front vice (photo H). Mark the recess so that it is located 70 mm from the front edge of the cover, and its middle coincides with the center big hole for the vice screw.

Use a 12mm ascending cutter to select a 57x305x406mm recess for the vise mechanism. Rearrange as necessary the trim supporting the router.

Peel off the back plate to slide the vise mechanism into place. Then install it again, and the operation can be considered completed.

2. Cut out the block J for the movable jaw of the front vice. Drill holes in the block, marking them with the template used earlier, positioning it so that the left end of the block is aligned with the left edge of the cover.

3. Mill along the ends of the movable jaw J shouldered fillets and attach the front vise to the cover following the directions in the instructions (photo I). Install the stock handlebar in place.

4. Cut out the block according to the indicated dimensions To for rear clamps. Remake the milling fixture that was used before and form grooves in the block with a width of 19 and a depth of 41 mm at an angle (Fig. 3 and 3a).

5. Cut out the overlay L for rear clamps. Drill in the block To 10mm through holes with 25mm counterbores (Fig. 3 and Behind). Pressing the overlay against the block with clamps, mark the centers of the holes on it with a 10 mm drill through the holes in the block. Then drill holes with a diameter of 16 mm at the marked points. Note. Our method is slightly different from the one described in the instructions and requires the use of washers and plugs that are not included in the vise package. In doing so, we hid the bolt heads under the plugs rather than leaving them in plain sight.

6. Glue the overlay L to the block K (photoJ) and carefully remove any extruded adhesive from the bench stop holes.

Align the holes of the block K exactly with the holes of the pad L. In order not to spend a lot of time removing excess glue, apply it evenly in a thin layer.

7. Attach the assembled block K/L together with the rear vice mechanism in place, following the instructions. Close the bolt heads with plugs and install the standard handle-lever.

Make bench stops

1. Saw according to the dimensions indicated in the "List of Materials" 17 stops M and 17 springs N. For the stops, we chose cherry wood, as it retains the required strength for a long time, does not leave dents on the details, and its color contrasts well with the wood white oak from which the workbench cover is made. For springs, dense and elastic wood, such as maple, is suitable.

2. To give the stops the desired shape, make copies of the template, increasing them by 2 times. Then glue the springs to the stops. Check how the assembled stops fit into the holes and adjust if necessary. They should be removed and recessed without much effort and at the same time remain on desired height. To learn more about them, read the article "Bench stops" published in this issue of the magazine.

Let's go to the base

Note. Before you start making, measure and record the dimensions of the recess on the underside of the lid. The top of the cabinet base should fit snugly into this recess. If it fails to fit, you will need to resize it to fit the recess or widen the edges of the recess for final assembly.

1. According to the dimensions indicated in the “List of Materials”, cut out the shelves O, partitions R and edge trims Q, R. Glue lining to shelves and partitions (Fig. 4). Then glue the shelves O/Q to partitions P/R and secure with additional screws.

2. Sawing plinth boards S and kings T, glue them to the O-R divider shelf assembly.

3. From 19mm cherry veneered plywood, cut out the side and back walls U, V. Glue the side walls in place first, securing with additional screws, then add the back wall, using only glue to fix it.

4. Note. Check the dimensions of the assembled body before sawing out the crossbeams, posts and overlays and make sure that the lengths listed in the Materials List are appropriate for your project. We advise you to cut out the detailsW— GG with a slight allowance in length, and then fit them in place.

Cut out the top and bottom rails W, X, as well as racks Y (Fig. 5). Glue the top and bottom rails to the front of the base, then add the uprights.

5. Now cut out the back rails Z, AA, racks BB, mullions SS and side rails DD, EE. Glue the bottom back bar AA and mullions to the back wall V (photo K). Then glue the rear top rail and posts in place, then the side bottom rails with mullions to the side walls, and finally the top side rails and posts.

Use a couple of thick, even-edged blocks to press the SS center pieces more firmly against the back wall.

6. Mill 10 mm chamfers at the corners of the body, ending at the joints of the crossbeams with the uprights (Fig. 6).

Before connecting the plinth boards, you need to saw the bevels on the slats glued on top. After that, you can start milling fillets.

7. From the 19mm cherry boards, cut the side, front and back plinth boards FF, GG specified length with an allowance of about 3 mm in width. Then saw off top edge each plinth board with a 19 × 19 mm rail and mark the parts to install them in place later. Finally, make connections dovetail" to fasten the plinth boards (Fig. 6a).Note. If instead of dovetail spikes you decide to make simple connections paus, saw out the plinth boards of the specified width (without allowance) and do not saw off the lath from above.

8. File the miter bevels on the slats for the side plinths only, without shortening them. Glue each of them to the corresponding part from which it was sawn off. Then glue the slats without bevels to the front and back plinth boards. Bevel only the top of the front and back plinth boards so that they fit snugly into the side plinth boards. The bevel edge should be close to the marking line, and the exact mating of the parts can be achieved by fitting, removing the material little by little (a photoL). Next, cut a 19mm fillet with a 3mm offset along the top edge of all plinth boards.

9. Glue the plinth boards to the base. You may have to use screws or nails to fasten them if you made bevels at their ends instead of dovetails.

Add doors

1. Cut out the crossbars HH, racks II and panels JJ specified dimensions (Fig. 7).

2. Make dowels 6 mm wide and 12 mm deep centered on the inner edges of all uprights and rungs. Then form spikes 6 mm thick and 12 mm long at the ends of the crossbars.

3. Assemble the doors by gluing the posts, rails and panels together. When the glue is dry, check how the doors fit into the base opening and adjust if necessary. Then cut 5x5mm seams on the top and bottom edges of the doors on the inside, as well as 10x5mm seams on posts where there are no hinges. These rebates leave enough space between the doors and the cabinet for the installation of magnetic latches.

Attach the doors to the cabinet with the hinges and put the magnetic latches in place.

Lower the lid onto the base

1. Invite three well-built buddies to use them to lift the heavy bench top and place it on the base. There is no need to fix it - thanks to its massiveness and precise fit, it is well kept in place.

2. Once you've set up your new workbench in your workshop, immediately move on to your next project so you can enjoy your time in the workshop even more!

When a major renovation is underway in a home, it is essential that everything is at hand at any time, which will allow you to make the most of your time. To do this, it is important to properly organize the workplace of the home master, if he is used to doing everything with his own hands. During repair or construction, a significant place is occupied by woodwork. However, sawing timber on a stool or bench is inconvenient and long. Rational use of time and resources will help the desktop, also known as the workbench. Make it possible at home.

For most men, the garage is both a "home" for a car, and a storage room and a workshop at the same time.

Not every owner believes that a workbench is constantly needed on the farm: it is needed only for the period of repair or reconstruction of the building, so he prefers to rent it. But such an opinion is erroneous, especially if he is the owner of a household standing on the ground. The carpentry workbench that appeared on the farm will be a real help for him. Having made such a design, the owner receives whole line advantages over using a workbench, rented or bought from a hardware store.

1. He will save a significant amount of money, which he can use for further home improvement.
2. Gain additional management experience and practical skills.
3. Get at your disposal a comfortable desktop, suitable for processing parts made of wood and metal.
4. If the owner makes a workbench with his own hands, he can use it at any time.

Therefore, in one room (well, if there is a basement) it is necessary to place racks and a workplace.

Table types

known different kinds workbenches that have different purposes.

1. Carpentry workbench for crafting wooden parts. It is convenient to handle small wooden crafts, but not intended for primary wood processing. For him, you need a countertop three meters long and one meter wide. Details on it are fixed with wooden horizontal and vertical clamps.
2. The carpentry fixture is much larger in all respects and heavier. Tree trunks are processed on it, boards, timber and other wood blanks are cut.
3. Universal table allows you to work with wood and metal; its tabletop is strengthened metal tape and has wooden and metal clips.

There is a table for locksmith work and car maintenance in almost every garage.

There is another definition of the types of structures according to the possible location.

1. Mobile (portable). Used for small detail work small sizes. It is comfortable and light enough. It can be easily moved from one place to another. The carpenter's table is equipped with a vice of small or medium size, which allows it to be used for small plumbing work.
2. The stationary desktop is massive and stable. It is possible to process lumber on it, but such a workbench is unlikely to be useful to a home craftsman if he does not constantly engage in woodworking.
3. Prefabricated on connections using bolts. This is a kind of transformer: at any time it can be supplemented special equipment and make necessary changes, depending on the tasks to be solved.

And as a rule - it is self-made, that is, made taking into account the characteristics of a particular room.

What kind of construction will you choose? House master, directly depends on what goals and objectives it sets:

• a desktop is needed for processing small parts and manufacturing small products only for the period of repair and construction work;
• the owner will constantly use it and work with small volumes of wood parts;
• a workbench will be needed to carry out the primary processing of wood, turning it into boards, timber on an ongoing basis;
• it is intended to use the table for occasional processing of small wood and metal parts.

The shape and dimensions are determined by the configuration of the room.

Experienced home craftsmen claim that even a novice owner who does not have the skills to handle metalwork tools can make a product.

The garage workbench is often compared to a desk because it provides the convenience to carry out a wide variety of jobs and allows everything to be done. necessary tools keep on hand.

Material selection

To make a workbench with your own hands, the master needs wood and metal. If it is supposed to make a small table, then it will be suitable for it. wooden base. Suitable for table top laminated chipboard, pressed plywood with a thickness of at least 5 - 7 cm. For a stationary table, you can use well-planed boards, tightly fitted to each other, and partially - metal.

In addition to the countertop, it has a large number of shelves and drawers.

And if at the disposal of the home master there is an unnecessary desk, then it will become a good basis. It is also convenient because it already has several drawers or compartments for storing tools.

The workplace of a motorist must be durable and stable.

Will find application in the design old door from a whole canvas. It will make an excellent durable countertop that does not even require processing.

Cabinets with tools and tools must be placed under the table. consumables(drills, hacksaw blades, rags, etc.).

The use of improvised materials available on the farm for the manufacture carpenter's table do-it-yourself will save time and money for the home master.

It is irrational to make a monolithic cabinet out of the table; you need to put your legs somewhere during sedentary work.

You can make your own workbench out of metal. It will be strong, reliable and heavy. But experience shows that an intermediate option is considered the most acceptable, when the frame and cover of the workbench are made of wood, and then sheathed with sheet metal.

However, both sides should be, if not sets of drawers, then at least a set of shelves.

A home craftsman who decides to make a workbench with his own hands will need a certain set of materials. What is needed for this, he knows well.

The workbench in the garage should not be part of the shelving, therefore, the wall above it is a place for hinged storage tool.

And for those who do not yet have sufficient experience, we have compiled a list of everything necessary for its manufacture:

• metal corner;
• steel strip and galvanized iron sheet;
• plywood;
• screws;
• anchor bolts;
• square pipe;
• wooden planks ;
• self-tapping screws for metal;
• dye.

Both metal and wooden workbench have the right to life.

What tools will be needed

A self-made small wooden carpentry workbench will take its rightful place in the home workshop. To make it, you don't need a large number tools.

You can always put a piece of plywood or hardboard on a steel sheet, and on wooden surface- galvanized sheet.

You will need a standard set that can be found in every home:

• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• Bulgarian;
• electric jigsaw or hand saw;
• a hammer.

First of all, we determine the ergonomics of the workplace.

Depending on what material will be used for the carpentry workbench, the list of materials and tools may vary. For example, to make a metal desktop, you cannot do without a welding machine and electrodes.

The height of the workbench should be such that you do not have to bend your back, and at the same time, stand on tiptoe.

Where to put?

Before starting work, it is important to immediately determine for what and how often the table will be used, where it will be placed. You can't do without a drawing. The answers to these questions will determine its dimensions, material and manufacturing procedure.

The best place to place the device can be considered that part of the room (garage or barn), where there is daylight. It is also important that next to the workbench are electrical sockets to connect power tools and a lamp. It is best if the light falls from the left or straight, then the working surface of the table will be illuminated during the day.

Design the dimensions of your work area.

Then the parameters of the future design are determined. Despite the existing standards regarding the size of the table, if you make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, the home master will proceed from expediency and the actual space available, so the tabletop will be such that tools and parts are freely placed here, without strict adherence to dimensions. The width is usually 50-60 cm; this size is considered optimal, as it allows you to freely reach the opposite edge of the countertop.

The typical vertical table size is in the range of 850-950 mm.

Another important parameter- workbench height. Exist various ways its definitions, ranging from precise mathematical calculations to folk experience, suggesting that the distance from extreme point arm bent at the elbow to the floor. Experienced Master can make it adjustable.

A perforated metal sheet is perfect as a wall for placing tools.

After determining the main parameters of the product, you can proceed with the assembly.

1. First, the legs are fixed (four supports from a steel corner, which are also connected by corners and fixed by welding from above and below.). The result is a rectangular welded structure.
2. After the frame is made, they begin to prepare the countertop. Boards cut to size are laid out on top of the frame and tightly fastened. The tabletop is connected to the frame with bolts. The working surface must be processed: planed and sanded. The bottom must be secured with crossbars or wooden blocks. They are screwed to each of the elements of the resulting shield.

After fixing it, you need to cover the cover with metal (it is better if it is galvanized). A metal sheet fixed to the surface of the countertop with self-tapping screws. If burrs form, they must be cleaned.

The workpieces should be cut before the start of welding.

The main work on the manufacture of the workbench is completed on this, but to make the structure more rigid and attach to the floor, you can weld it from below metal corners. Optionally, it can be equipped with drawers, shelves for tools.

We reinforce all welded joints with a corner or a steel strip.

From necessary equipment on the workbench, you must definitely find a place for a vice. They are hung on the front side of the countertop and are used to fasten products. If there are often large parts in the work, there is a need to install several vices of different sizes.

The key is to reinforce all 90° connections.

Under the workbench, you can mount shelves where you can place various devices, right tool or stack machined parts.

Be sure to impregnate the tree with an antiseptic and fire impregnation.

Carefully made with your own hands, the carpentry workbench will become convenient fixture for the work of a home master.

This design is close to ideal. garage workbench made by hand.

VIDEO: do-it-yourself workbench.

Creating a workbench with your own hands: 50 photo ideas

Any economic man needs his own equipped workplace for storing tools and performing carpentry and plumbing work. In this case, a workbench will become a necessary element of the workplace, and now we will tell you how to make a workbench on your own.

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Indeed, in order to buy it, you will need to shell out a significant amount and, in addition, pick up right size it seems to be a rather difficult task for your premises. But if you do it yourself, you can choose the required size of the workbench with an accuracy of up to a centimeter.

What workbenches are

A workbench is a desktop on which the master performs manual work on the processing of wood, metal and other parts. Self-made workbenches are installed in the garage, in the country and even in the apartment. The workbench is equipped with various additional devices that may be needed during work, such as stops and vices. In addition, containers are installed in workbenches for storing various tools and even documentation. By type of work, joinery, carpentry and locksmith workbenches are distinguished.

DIY workbench video:

Carpentry workbench

A standard carpentry workbench has this design. The main parts are the benchtop and the benchtop. Podverstache looks like a rack (usually two) that are interconnected wooden blocks. The material of this table element is usually pine or other soft wood.

The workbench or lid is made of hardwood, such as oak, and has a thickness of up to 8 cm. The surface of the board is covered with drying oil. If you are going to assemble a workbench with your own hands, then you should know which additional devices needs to be placed on a table top.

Note!

First of all, it should be a vice located in the front and used to fix parts.

In the back, you need to make a recess for storing small tools in it. On the edge of the workbench there are holes into which wooden chocks and metal combs are inserted. The standard workbench is suitable mainly for handmade, and if you also want to use power tools, then for this you need to choose a workbench with large quantity holes for stops.

locksmith workbench

The locksmith's workbench is a more powerful structure. It has metal carcass, on which a wooden cover up to 6 cm thick and covered with an iron sheet is laid. The lid is edged with a three-sided bead and, in most cases, a bench vise is installed on it. The tabletop on such workbenches is made powerful so that it can withstand high shock loads, including sledgehammers.

The material is chosen at will, but the most popular MDF is galvanized, which allows you to protect the countertop from the influence of aggressive environments such as gasoline, oils or solvents. In addition, this countertop is easy to clean from dirt. The locksmith's workbench is equipped with several retractable drawers for folding tools.

carpentry workbench

Another type of such structures is the carpenter's workbench. This workplace is designed for processing boards and has dimensions that are significantly larger than the previous two options. Its dimensions are up to 6 m long and 1 m wide. A stop for processing the board must be installed on the carpenter's workbench. It has a cutout in the form of a triangle, for fixing the board with wedges, and is used during the processing of its edges.

Making a construction workbench

Let's figure out how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands. First you need to make a frame of bars, and between the legs, for strength, install a jumper and a drawer (a connecting element that holds the structure together). It is desirable that they be located at a distance of about 45 cm from the floor. The installation of the workbench frame occurs in this order. First you need to prepare the grooves, then assemble the structure and coat the connection points with glue. We carry out the final fastening with the help of clamps.

Worktop for workbench

It is worth recalling that the manufacture of any design occurs more quickly and efficiently if you have at hand at least the simplest drawing of a carpentry workbench or part of it. Below we give a drawing of the table top, top view.

If the countertop is made of several boards, then it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps between them, in order to avoid, during subsequent work, dust clogging there. The dimensions of the tabletop should be 3-5 cm larger than the workbench itself, for greater ease of cleaning the tool. The tabletop must be processed with a grinder and varnished. This will serve as protection against getting splinters in your hands.

Installing a vice and creating stops

After we have installed the countertop, we need to mount a vise on them. For this, on working surface you need to cut a recess so that you can put a vertical plate in the same plane with the table top. We put the vise in the place where they will stand in the future, it is desirable that this is not a corner, and we make a basting for drilling. Then fasten with nuts.

Note!

Stops can be purchased at the store, or you can make it yourself.

Then we advise you to make them rectangular shape with the possibility of height adjustment. It is desirable to make holes for stops for a length of 50% of the vise travel. In this situation, you can fix different workpieces well. A video instruction for making a workbench can be viewed in our article.

wooden workbench

Making a locksmith's workbench

Let's look at how you can make a locksmith workbench with your own hands.

1. Determine the height of the future table. For each person, it can be different, for example, if a man is 180 cm tall, then the height of the workbench is 90 cm. But still, for the final decision, you need to focus only on yourself.
2. Do not forget that the drawings of the locksmith's workbench, drawn by you, will be useful for faster and better assembly.
3. For a locksmith's workbench, the frame is best welded from a profile pipe and corners, but in extreme cases it can be made in the same way as a carpentry structure, from beams.
4. To make the structure as strong as possible, you need to put spacers between the legs. Sometimes, instead of spacers, a shelf is installed, in which you can later put the tool, paint and varnish liquids or other necessary items.
5. For stability of the structure, you can attach the legs to the floor. This will prevent the workbench from shaking while working.
6. Build a countertop from MDF and galvanize if possible. This will greatly increase its strength.
7. If you want your workbench to be equipped with drawers, then place skids under the upper bars, similar to those installed for drawers in. Then you will have a storage space for small parts, screws and nails.

Folding workbench

There is another type of workbenches that are used for both carpentry and metalwork. This is a folding workbench. It is very convenient in the absence of extra space in the room. After working on it, you can always fold it and put it in a corner to wait. next job. In addition, it can be transferred to the country when folded. Such a workbench consists of two parts: a removable workbench and a folding table. It is usually made smaller than a stationary table.

DIY workbench video:

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