How the shower is attached to the wall. Wall-mounted shower holders: how to choose the right model for your bathroom? Video - Installing a vertical shower arm

There should always be order in the house, everything should be in its place. For the bathroom, this is just as important. A shower holder is a must here. It is much more comfortable to take a shower with him. Main functions: reliable fixation of the shower head in the right place and regulation of its location.

Types of holders

The installation of the suction cup structure is very simple and allows you to place the watering can at any level convenient for you. They are mainly used for placement in shower cabins. No drilling required for wall or cab walls.
The dowel mounting method is more complex and reliable, in contrast to the suction cups. With the help of overlays, you can give the design an aesthetic look. Such devices are mounted on the surface of walls and ceilings. The second option is not convenient to install. But it looks unusual and interesting.

Product material

Steel or brass products - very durable and will last long term... The main disadvantage is the appearance of corrosion when the surface of the holder is damaged, brass can also oxidize.
Metal alloys have a shorter service life than previous devices. They also look elegant in the interior. There are models with a coating of silver and gold.
Plastic shower holders have a short lifespan, breaks and cracks quickly. In production, chrome plating is used on its surface, which gives the entire structure an aesthetic appearance. Given its fragility, the price of the product is the lowest in comparison with others.

There are many models of these devices on the trade market, which differ in quality, reliability, and appearance. Before making a purchase it is worth considering possible options and choose the interior element you need, taking into account your wishes.

Good day, brains! Every morning people around the world take a shower, and these few minutes between the annoyance of the alarm clock and long hours of work are probably the most pleasant moment of the whole day, minutes of "meditation", relaxation ... Therefore, I suggest spending some money and "upgrading" your shower making it even more enjoyable and relaxing!

To get a luxurious shower system, which many people dream of, there is not always enough money for arranging a bathroom, but for assembling a shower brain systems This guide based on 6 adjustable shower heads won't cost you a lot of money, but you'll definitely be proud of it!

Step 1: Tools and Materials

This "luxury" shower can be crafted from the following small set of materials:

shower heads (I chose inexpensive, but with good reviews) - 6 pcs.,
half-inch (1.2cm) PVC pipe - about 3 meters,
a variety of fittings for PVC pipes (they are easy to find in your nearest household store),
flexible hose (external diameter- 2.2cm, inner - 1.6cm),
stainless steel clamp - 2 pcs.,
stainless chain - about 2 meters,
screw-in loops and S-hooks.

And from the tools only:

brainworm or a pipe cutter for PVC pipe cutter,
dye,
pliers.

Step 2: Calculations

We decide how the shower system itself will look like and how many nozzles it will have, for this we turn to mathematics!

We calculate the "productivity" of the shower, that is, the amount of water that it can give for a certain period of time, namely - liters / min.

I wanted to know a fairly accurate value for the "performance" of my brain-soul, so I took a bucket and scales, measured how many liters were poured into the bucket in 30 seconds, and then made some simple calculations:

Empty bucket weight - 1.04kg,
The weight of a bucket of water (leaked in 30 seconds) - 9.53kg,
The weight of water in a bucket is 9.53-1.04 = 8.494kg,
Weight per liter pure water about - 1kg,
The volume of leaked (in 30 seconds) water is 8.494 / 1 = 8.494 liters,
Then the "productivity" of the shower is 8.494x2 = 16.988 liters / min, or about 17 liters / min.

Knowing this parameter, I began to select suitable nozzles, and by design I wished to have 6 pieces, that is, when working on full power each of them should be rated for 2.8 liters / min. Not finding nozzles with such a parameter, I chose 6 nozzles, designed for 4.6 liters / min, realizing that their number in the system may have to be reduced.

As they say, my height is my "blessing and curse", and I think many tall people they will understand me, because most souls are not "very friendly" with such "great" persons like us 🙂 And that's why a prerequisite The design of my shower system is its high position. Having measured the width of my shower space, it was a little less than 74cm, I received all the necessary data for the construction brainwashing.

Step 3: Cutting PVC pipes

Now we start cutting the shower system elements to size.

I decided that for my little shower brainspace, 7 segments are needed PVC pipes 31.75cm long and 9 segments 3.8cm long, and with such dimensions assembled homemade will stay within the specified width of 74cm.

Step 4: cleaning parts

In order for the whole brainwashing it looked not just a PVC structure suspended from the ceiling of the shower space, it is necessary to peel off all the labels from the PVC components, so we place them in a container with warm water, and when they get wet, we completely clean off the labels. (If the parts have printed labels, then they do not need to be soaked).

I still cleanly removed all the raised inscriptions and logos from my plastic ones with a drill with a grinding attachment. brain parts.

Step 5: Build the system

Now it's time to put the pieces together into a one-piece design. That is, first we check all the connections dry, and then we glue them together. So that my brain system I looked more accurate when gluing parts I tried not to overdo it with PVC cement.

We glue all the parts into a single shower system, with the exception of only the inlet fitting, which will be connected to the water source. This will make it easier to connect the structure (Step: 10).

Step 6: coloring

This step is optional, but I wanted my inexpensive shower to look as luxurious as possible, so I colored it.

So, we cover threaded connections system and apply paint, and after it dries, we screw on the shower heads.

Step 7: gimbal mounting

We screw the hinges into the ceiling of the shower space. At the same time, I used a special brain organization called stud finder (I didn't want such a project to “fail miserably” :)). And then we also hang S-hooks on them.

Step 8: attach the chain

We open the final link of the chain with pliers, wrap it around the structure pipe, hook and clamp the link.

For their crafts I used three lengths of 60cm chain, for your shower the length will naturally be different.

Step 9: hanging the system

We take the assembled shower room homemade and suspended from the ceiling by means of previously screwed in loops.

Step 10: attach the hose

BEING CAREFUL, heat one end of the flexible hose in a pot of water (I used old saucepan, so as not to worry that any substances from the plastic of the hose got into the food) and put it on the tube of the water source, and then we additionally fasten this connection with a metal clamp.

In a similar way, we heat the second end of the hose and put it on the inlet fitting, and we already attach it to the shower system.

Step 11: The shower is ready!

We return the curtain and the rest of the shower accessories to their places and that's it, your shower has been modified to the "Luxurious" version. Therefore, do not waste time to accept it, enjoy it!

Easy steam to all! And good luck creating your own brainwashing!

All bathroom faucets come with a separate shower holder. Its appearance depends on the manufacturer, the device is attached to the wall or side of the bath. In addition, the mixer has special supports for fixing the watering cans. But standard solutions do not always satisfy users, they want to have a design superior comfort and original design solutions so buy more modern holders.

We will consider what types of shower holders are, tell step by step instructions by attaching them to different types walls in the shower or bathroom.

The following materials are used for the manufacture of holders:

Holder materials and their characteristics

Holder materials	Specifications
	Unlike pure copper, the alloy is characterized by increased strength and hardness, and has good plasticity values. Brass holders are made by injection molding with subsequent finishing surface. Such goods are elite, the most expensive at cost. Performance characteristics at a decent level. Disadvantage - over time, stubborn stains form on surfaces.
	The final characteristics depend on the proportions of the components. Differs in increased anti-corrosion resistance. Holders of the middle price segment. Disadvantage - they need periodic polishing of surfaces to restore the original shine.
	The cheapest and most common non-ferrous alloy used for the manufacture of shower holders. Advantages - does not oxidize in seawater and low cost. The main disadvantage is the rapid fatigue of the metal, even with insignificant long-term loads, cracks appear.

The range of prices for holders, depending on the material of manufacture, is large, each consumer must independently make a decision on the choice based on their own capabilities.

Types of holders in place and method of fixation

The holders can be installed on the walls of rooms or the sides of the bathtub.

Wall holders. They are stationary and mobile. In stationary, the height of the watering can is not regulated, it is very inconvenient if adults and children use the same shower. The movable ones allow you to individually adjust the height of the watering can. The watering can is mounted on a metal bracket that is attached to upright rack... The length of the rack is up to 60 cm, the installation height is limited by the size of the flexible hose. It can additionally accommodate platforms for detergents and washcloths.
Bath rim holders. Requires time-consuming installation, in some situations it is necessary to make a special hole in the bath. They are used only for fixing watering cans in a non-working state, this is their main drawback.

Holders can be attached with dowels or suction cups. The first option is reliable and safe to use. The problem is that it is necessary to drill holes, and this can be significant difficulties, which we will discuss below.

The second type of fixation (on suction cups) is characterized by mobility and ease of fixation. Each user can adjust the height as they wish.

There are three disadvantages.

First, the tiles must be perfectly flat and smooth, otherwise the watering can may fall at the most inopportune moment.
The second - over time, the material for making the suction cup loses its plasticity, microcracks appear at the edges, allowing air to pass through. The holder cannot hold the shower head, you have to buy a new one.
The third - can be mounted only on one ceramic tile. It is impossible to fix the device on the seams, and this significantly limits the places of fixation, the watering can has to be installed not where it is necessary, but where it is possible.

Most modern shower holders allow you to adjust the shower head in one plane according to the height of the spray. Some adjust, in addition to this parameter, the angle of inclination from left to right.

Older models do not have this capability, they hold the watering can in one position. There are holders with a shower hose connection, some have a hook that allows you to hang additional equipment.

Mounting methods for holders

We will not consider options with a suction cup, everything is clear here. The surfaces must be level, smooth and clean.

Let's talk about the methods of fixing with dowels to the wall and about fixing to the side of the bathroom. Initial data: the wall is tiled according to cement screed, on drywall, sheathed with plastic panels or painted oil paints.

How to attach the holder to ceramic tiles on a concrete or brick wall

For builders, this is the easiest option. To work, you need a drill with a perforator and a drill with a victorious soldering. The drill diameter must match the dowel diameter.

Step 1. Decide on the height of the installation. If the holder is not vertically adjustable, then its location should be suitable for adult users. The height should be sufficient for shampooing, while your hands should not touch the watering can. Children will have to hold the watering can.

Step 2. Mark the locations of the holes to be drilled.

It is better to do this with a felt-tip pen, pencil marks on the surface of the ceramic tile are invisible. Try to accurately mark the places of drilling, the fact is that they are placed at a short distance, in case of an error, another hole will not be able to be drilled nearby, the drill will constantly slide into the existing one.

Step 3. Start drilling holes.

Practical advice. What if the holes are drilled in the wrong place? There are two options for solving the problem.

First. If there is a slight discrepancy, slightly increase its diameter with a new drill or wiggling the old one in different directions. Insert the dowel into place and with matches or toothpicks move its axis in the desired direction. Score matches as tightly as possible, do not leave gaps.
Second. We'll have to seal the wrong hole with cement-sand mortar and drill a new one. To prevent the drill from falling into the old hole again, beat off a piece of tile over the new one. Work very carefully, do not allow large cracks.

Step 4. Recheck the alignment of the holes and the support. Everything is fine - fix it in place. Attach the decorative pieces and the holder itself. Check its stability by pressing lightly. The structure should not wobble.

Now you can move on to more complex options.

Ceramic tiles on drywall

We have said more than once that drywall has only two advantages: cheapness and ease of installation. These advantages are negated by the main disadvantage - low physical strength... Many construction companies during the decoration of the walls of the bathrooms, drywall is used - there is no need to level the walls cement-sand mixtures, all work can be completed in one day. And then tiles are laid on this surface. Fast, cheap (but not for the customer) and beautiful (but not for long). So we are faced with the problem of how to drill holes in such a wall.

Ceramic tile - hard material... To drill holes, you need to make significant efforts, the drill must work in the mode of a punch. As you might guess drywall sheets do not withstand such efforts, and even more so vibrations. The material bends, the tiles fall off. What to do?

The best option is to provide for the fixing points of the holder even before finishing the walls. In this place, make holes in the drywall, fix a piece of board on the wall under the drywall. Only then put ceramic tiles... Now it will have a stop, which will make it possible to drill holes without fear.

And if the walls are already finished? The work becomes much more complicated.

Step 1. Mark the position of the shower holder, find the centers of the holes for fixing, mark them with a marker.

Step 2. Prepare your tools. They should be in perfect condition, pay special attention to the drills. Factory sharpening is not enough, fix it yourself. The cutting edges must be very sharp.

Step 3. Need to remove upper layer glaze. This is the most difficult stage. The hardness of a quality glaze reaches that of glass. The drill slides over the surface without damaging it. If the tiles are laid on a solid base, the drill switches to hammer drill mode, the drill breaks the glaze with sharp blows and drilling is possible. We do not have the option when you can work with a puncher. The glaze should be removed with a special diamond-coated drill. It drills holes with light pressure.

Drill with diamond coating 3-20 mm

The second option is to use a lance drill. This method is somewhat more dangerous and requires practical skills to use.

Important. Do not allow the tiles to squeak after pressing down firmly with the drill. Such sounds indicate that the tile began to fall off from the glue.

The drill must be at least 10 cm long.

You need to make a margin for the thickness of the drywall, the distance between it and the wall and the thickness of the tiles. The dowels that come with each holder will not work, they are too short.

One more point. A gentle drill can drill a hole the length of the dowel, but never completely clear it of construction dust... As a result, the dowel will not sit on its entire length; it will have to be removed and the hole deepened.

Step 4. After drilling all the holes, check that the tile is firmly attached to the base. If it staggers, you should take it out, gently knock off the old glue and lay the tiles on a new one.

Next, the cracks are rubbed. You will have to work for a long time and very carefully. But even after the fulfillment of such conditions, there is no guarantee that the repair will go unnoticed. It will be especially difficult to make an identical grout. So much for the "advantages" of drywall.

Problems with drilling holes in plastic are, fortunately, much easier to solve. You need an ordinary drill and drill of the appropriate diameter. Set the drill to maximum speed, press the drill slightly against the plastic surface. Due to friction, the temperature will rise, the plastic will melt. A victorious drill is inserted into the formed hole, the drill switches to the hammer drill mode, the hole is drilled in the usual way. Again, the dowels need to be taken long.

There are times when, in order to save money, very thin plastic was used to cover the walls of the bathroom. It bends under the weight of the holder, the watering can and the hose. Let's say right away that such a finish is the worst option of all. But even in this case, there is a solution.

Step 1. Attach to the panel decorative cover holder, trace the outline with a thin pencil.

Step 2. Carefully cut the hole with a carpenter's knife. The dimensions of the hole should be 3-4 mm smaller than the outline. It will take a long time to cut, it all depends on the strength of the panels.

Video - How to drill a plastic panel

Step 3. Prepare a lining from the trimming board according to the dimensions of the cut hole. The thickness of the backing should be equal to the distance from the wall to the face of the panel. Make the lining with maximum precision.

Step 4. Fix it to the wall with dowels.

Important. Pay attention to the location of the holes for fixing the carrier part of the holder and fixing the pad to the wall, they must not coincide. If this cannot be achieved due to small size, then on the same dowels you will have to fix both the lining and the holder element.

It's not as difficult as it sounds. The main thing is to accurately measure the position of the holes and drill them in the wall and lining. To facilitate the process, you can first fix the backing to the wall in the center. The holder is not fixed in this place, it is always free. When the backing is fixed, it is much easier to simultaneously drill holes in it and in the wall. To prevent it from moving during operation, insert a dowel into the first drilled hole, it will not allow it to rotate.

Step 5. It remains to seal the gap between the plastic panel and the holder. Use a bactericidal putty or silicone for this.

This material is used to seal the gap between the bathroom and the wall. Before applying silicone, thoroughly clean and be sure to degrease the surface. Otherwise, delamination will quickly appear, water will get under the wall decoration.

There are times when the holes in the supporting elements of the holder are so small that it is impossible to find long dowels with the same diameters. What to do?

Important. Exercise caution when fixing the holders with dowels to tiles or on a fragile surface plastic panels... Do not tighten too hard, the main thing is to eliminate the gap between the elements.

If the wall in the bathroom is painted with oil paints, then there are no problems with drilling at all.

Attaching the holder to the bath rim

Ideally, the bathtub already has special technological holes for the holder. If not, you will have to drill. The bath can be metal or plastic. With the second, there is no problem, the hole is drilled with an ordinary drill. The only condition - do not overheat it, do not allow the plastic to melt. Reduce the speed of the drill, cool the rubbing surfaces with water from time to time.

There are more difficulties with a metal bathroom. How to drill holes in them?

Step 1. Decide on where to install the holder on the bathroom. Prepare tools: glass and ceramic drill and drill.

Step 2. The drilling site must be constantly cooled. Think about how you can do this, there are several options. From the simplest thing - to adapt an ordinary dropper for supplying water under the cutting edges to the more exotic - to make a collar from plasticine and pour water into it. To prevent it from leaking out the field of formation of a small hole, attach a plasticine cup from below.

Step 3. Increase the hole diameter in stages. Use a small diameter drill at the beginning, gradually increase it by 2–3 mm.

Step 4. Take away metal shavings and dust, remove the burrs from the bottom of the bath with a circular disc grinder or manually.

Step 5. Reinstall the holder, making sure that the flexible hose to the showerhead does not have too sharp bends.

This installation option is time-consuming and has little effect. On the side of the bath, the watering can only be in an inoperative state; while taking a shower, you will have to hold it in your hand.

Do not rush to immediately fix the holder. Study the manufacturer's instructions, collect / disassemble it on the table several times, find out the problem areas.
To help less dust get into the bathtub or on the floor, call a helper. Let him hold the hose from the vacuum cleaner directly under the drill bit, all the dust will be removed.
If you have a vertical holder, it is best to attach it one at a time. First mark and fix the top structural element. Then use a plumb line and use it to determine the exact vertical position of the bottom. There is no factory plumb line - make it yourself. Tie a small weight to a piece of thread, the most accurate vertical plumb line is ready to use. Only the marks will have to be made not according to the spout, but according to the position of the thread.
The dowel hole is caught in the seam brickwork, the dowel is loose and cannot support the weight of the mixer. There is nothing wrong. Hammer in the maximum number of matches around the plastic part, sharpen the lower ends. This method will provide sufficient fastening reliability.
The centers of the holes in the wall and on the fixing element are slightly off. If the difference is not more than three millimeters, then nothing needs to be altered. Insert into holes and fastener all dowels at the same time. In order to get into the holes, lift the elements by maximum height from the wall (limited by the length of the dowels), and push the dowel-nails one at a time. The main thing is that they fall into place. Then, gradually and in turn, hammer in the hardware, in most cases they will align and go into the holes. The hats, of course, will remain under the slope, but this does not affect the quality of the fastening.
Never stick tape to prevent chipping to the surface of the tiles. Firstly, it will not prevent their formation, but only keep small fragments in one place. Secondly, the vain hope for scotch tape lowers the attentiveness and accuracy of the work and the tile will surely crack.
To avoid accidentally breaking the tiles while driving the dowels, use a wooden spacer.

Shower bar installation instructions. PDF file for download

Installation instructions for the classic non-swivel shower arm. PDF file for download

Video - Installing a vertical shower arm

Nowadays, there are many different designs on the market that differ from each other for a number of factors. The attachment for the shower head is a trifle that many do not pay attention to, but any problems with this node cause whole line inconvenience, so we will consider given view products in more detail and we will find out what options are and what you should pay attention to when choosing.

Types of installation of shower heads

Today on the market you can find several basic design options, we will consider the most common of them:

Manual option	The simplest solution, when it rains, what was it originally made for special holder, which is most often combined with the outlet of the shower hose. The system is simple: if you need a shower, you simply remove the node from the holder and use it as you like.
Wall mount	A very common and popular option due to its practicality: you can stand in the rain or take it off if necessary. Most often, the holder is attached using two small dowels, but there are options that are held on a suction cup.
Ceiling mount	This option involves installing the structure from above, it is non-removable, so it is important to choose the optimal height and location of the structure. The system is convenient in that you do not need to take a watering can in your hands, and in that the adjustments are made on and no additional actions are required.
Using the barbell	This solution appeared not so long ago, but has already gained great popularity among buyers. The main advantages include the ability to attach the rod to existing holes by adjusting the racks, and the holder is located on the rod and can be fixed on any part of it, which is why the system is called semi-adjustable.

Advice! You should choose a specific option based on the characteristics of your room and the plumbing used. Sometimes only one of the options works. Therefore, you only need to choose the optimal modification.

Bracket options and installation features

Immediately, we note that fastenings of this kind are used most often with a wall-mounted structure, since with a ceiling watering can it is rigidly strengthened, and with manual version the holder is initially present in the design. Again, there are shower enclosures, but they are also included in the kit, although sometimes you have to choose the location yourself.

Design features

If for any reason the holder was absent either staff unit broken or lost, then you will have to select this node separately, while the following recommendations will help you choose the best option:

Manufacturing material... There may be several options: plastic, which, despite all its advantages, is still not very reliable, powder metal, which is more reliable, but still there are questions about quality, brass - this material is not afraid of moisture and is very durable, and steel - the most reliable metal, but if the coating is damaged, it corrodes.

Mount type... There are two main options here: the classic one, in which the assembly consists of two parts, one of which is attached directly to the wall using dowels of the appropriate size (surface drilling is required). The second method is a suction cup, it is easy to install, because you do not need to drill the wall, and you can change the position of the holder if you did not position it very well initially.

The wall mount can be fixed, but can also be swivel mechanism, it also improves the comfort of use. The system is simple and reliable, but it is worth noting one caveat - the price of such units is much higher than that of the classic ones.

Now let's look at how to properly fix the bracket so that it holds as securely as possible:

First of all, you should study all the recommendations that the installation instructions prescribe. Everyone should be there required circuits or the procedure for the correct work and a list of the tools required for work. Most often you need a screwdriver and an electric drill with a drill for tiles and concrete.

Advice! If you don't want to spoil the tiles, choose the suction cup option. As a last resort, you can always purchase the classic version.

When carrying out work with your own hands, it is very important to carry out careful planning and not to be mistaken with the place of drilling the holes, since you are unlikely to be able to seal them. After marking, you must first drill the ceramics with an appropriate drill, then put a drill on the concrete and drill a hole to the depth of the dowel plus half a centimeter-centimeter of stock.
Next, the first part of the holder is attached to the wall, which is most often threaded and fixed using the dowels supplied or purchased separately.

The holder itself is attached last - the system is ready for use.

If you are worried that you might confuse the fasteners when assembling the shower stall, then do not worry: firstly, everything is described in detail in the diagrams, and secondly, confuse the fasteners for shower tray or for doors with knots for a shower head is not possible.

Output

The video in this article will tell you about some of the features of the products in question in more detail and help you understand some important nuances better.

I happened to have a broken shower holder. Having walked around several hardware stores, I did not find this. There are many different shower holders, but, to my regret, they are all different. You could, of course, buy another, but then you would have to drill other holes in the tile, next to the existing ones. I didn't want to do this, since the new holes would be very close to the earlier drilled holes, and you need to close or cover up with something the previous ones. After thinking for 10 - 15 minutes on this situation, I came to the conclusion that you can try to fix it.

The cause of the breakdown is a break in the plastic rod, into which the self-tapping screw is screwed, so the holding part simply fell off. A part without a rod remained in the wall:

The design of the holder is as follows: directly the holder itself, which has a cylindrical shape, is attached to the plastic base with one self-tapping screw. The plastic base, in turn, is already attached to the wall with two dowels:

The size of the self-tapping screw fixing the holder to the base can be easily replaced with a 30x4 screw, just fits in length, on the other back side the screw will be secured with an M4 nut:

The whole question is how to sink the "M4" nut into the plastic base of the shower holder so that it does not protrude from the back side, and it was possible to land the base on tile in the bathroom. To do this, you need to slightly widen the hole in the base conically so that the nut does not fall through the hole. For conical expansion of plastic, you can use any available means... I used a tile drill larger than the hole with a diameter (10mm):

We expand the hole carefully until the nut is completely recessed into the base of the holder:

That's it, the nut drowned:

For reliable fastening, it is required that in front of the nut there is a washer of a larger diameter than the nut, otherwise the nut can simply be pulled out of the plastic. But there is no way to put an ordinary nut, since the nut must also have a tapered shape. Such a nut can be made from tin yourself. Tin is soft material and it is quite simple to give it any shape. You don't need to go far to make a nut - you can just use the lid from a tin can:

First, you need to drill a hole in the cover for a screw with a diameter of 4 - 5 mm so that the screw can pass. Drilling is easier if you mark the point of the future hole with an awl:

and drill a hole:

After the hole is drilled with ordinary metal scissors around the hole, cut out an improvised nut. The shape here does not have to be perfectly round, so you don't have to try too hard to cut something perfect:

We got such a blank for the washer from our lid:

But the puck is not completely ready yet. It is necessary to give the washer a conical shape by bending inward the central part of the tin washer. To do this, put the nut on the screw together with the fastener and washer, and bend the washer with light, careful blows of a hammer on the nut. A vice will serve as an ideal pedestal for work:

To make it easier to give the tin blank the desired shape, you can make a couple of cuts. In just a few tens of seconds, a finished washer is obtained:

When viewed from the side, the washer will look like this:

That's it, you can assemble and screw the shower holder back to its original place. Will now hold on tight:

Of course, not every shower holder is exactly the same. And the mounts are different. But, I really hope, the principles that are described in this article can help in small home renovation various breakdowns, and it is not at all necessary that shower mounts. Using ingenuity, you can repair many things that, it would seem, cannot be repaired. Good luck to everyone in your home renovation!