Detailed instructions for the manufacture of the taiga ax - Tips and rules. How to make an ax - a step-by-step instruction for the manufacture and assembly with your own hands a beautiful ax with your own hands from a simple ax

Each country house has a number of necessary tools for different works. To build a house, seize firewood or parted the meat is required ax. It can be purchased in the store or make yourself. The purchased tool may be uncomfortable or unreliable, and it is unsafe. The tool made by their own hands is characterized by special convenience and reliability. Before making a topopriste with your own hands at home, you need to know how the ax looks like, from which parts it consists, and decide on its purpose.

Types of ax

The tool is customary to classify the type of handle.

In addition to the main axes, there are tools intended for special works. This includes: Colon, joiner, large carpentry, sculptural ax, and a curly tool and an ax for concave surfaces.

Self-making ax

Composite parts of the ax: axle, metal fabric and wedges. How easy and convenient will work with the tool, it depends on the length and shape of its handle called the axle. Consider how to make it properly and suitable size. To do this, select the material and the template to outset the workpiece.

The homemade product is impregnated with a protective agent, it will help protect the ax from rotting. The impregnation makes several layers from the oil or flaxseed oil. Each subsequent layer must be completely soaked. It is not recommended to cover products with varnishes and paints. They will give the handle a sliding effect, and the ax during work will constantly start slipping. Sometimes a bright dye is added to the impregnation. The instrument's handle acquires a bright color, and this is good when work is carried out on overgrown areas. The ax will always be visible and will not be lost.

Choosing a metal nozzle

It is impossible to order metal tightly with your own hands, so it is bought in a construction store. Tips when choosing a stitching:

1. High-quality blade should be solid, without jar, chipping and dents.
2. Metal marked according to GOST.
3. End of the foothold should be located perpendicular to the blade.
4. The eyelet must be a cone-shaped form.

Topor nozzle

The process is performed in several stages, such as fitting, planting and criting.

Eliminate cracks that occur when the metallic canvase is embaring with epoxy resin. It is poured into the cuts before climbing wedges. Resin dries off day. And only then you can sprinkle the protruding part.

Sharpening and hardening blade

The operational qualities of the tool depend on the acute blade. Therefore, you need to know how to sharpen the ax. For each type of work, the blade processing angle is selected.

Sharpening make on an electric sharpening circle, smoothly by moving the blade along the circle at an angle of 45 degrees. In order for the quality of the cutting edge does not deteriorate, the blade overheating cannot be allowed. To do this, the tank with water is installed near the grinder. It periodically lowers the blade for cooling. At the end of the work they make the blade altitude. To do this, use grinding bar or sandpaper.

Metallic canvas made of soft material will have to be sharpened often. To avoid this, you can make an ax. To do this, you will need gas burner, oil and water. The blade is heated on the gas until the red color appears. Then it is lowered into the oil and cold water. Everyone repeat 3 times.

Undoubtedly, people living in a private house or often exercise in campaigns, such an indispensable tool is needed as an ax. To buy it, it is enough just to go to the market.

If you have questions about the quality of the purchased ax, it can be done by himself. And this can be done very easily, if you use the instructions and advice on its manufacture.

Classification of axes

Axes are the following types:

1. Carpentry. Lightweight, small axes must with a sharp blade. Designed to join and accurately working with wood.
2. Carpentry universal. Miscellaneous axes. They do not have a big handle. Use them for inaccurate wood treatment.
3. Ax lumberjack. It is used to cut a tree, has a wide blade and a long handle.
4. Ice ax. Used in mountaineering. It consists of a spike, head, blades and sharpened at the base of the handle. Outwardly, he looks like a kirk.
5. Colong. The cone-shaped ax having a high weight. Form and weight help to split solid species of trees.
6. Blacksmith. Such an ax is possible to cut off metal materials. Apply the ax to the place where you need to cut off, and beat the hammer on the okuhu.
7. Potable. With it, we cut the tree. For efficiency, the ax has rounded blade.
8. Cook. The ax having a shortened handle and a heavy and acute rubbing surface.
9. Puzzle. Used to cut the grooves with the edge on the blade. The cutting part is perpendicular to the topopor.
10. Firefighter. The ax with a metal handle, which is isolated for maintaining a voltage equal to 1000W. His feature is that there is a spike on the outer, which is used to cut the passage through the dawns.
11. Storm fireman. Massive ax with a long handle. In case of fire, it is broken by heavy designs.
12. Tourist. A small ax with a short paint. It happens in combination with a knife or saw. For security, it is equipped with a case.
13. Tsalda. The blade of the ax, made in the form of a sickle, is used to clean the territory from small shrubs.

Independent manufacture

The procedure for performing work is as follows:

Operating Operating Topor

Before starting work, it is necessary to make transverse cuts at the top and bottom of the bar. The depth of cuts should not reach the line of the axle for 2-3 mm. The chisel is removed the extra layer of wood. Raspil is cut out the places where the corners and transitions are needed. At the end, the ax is grouped using sandwich.

Selecting a stitching

At home, the metal canvas does not do, so you need to know what to pay attention to when it is elected in the constructionarket:

• ideally, steel should be marked according to GOST;
• the eyelet must have a cone form;
• the blade should not have dents, bends or jar;
• if you look at the volatility, then its ends should be perpendicular to the blade.

Attachment on the ax

You can do this by completing such simple operations:

1. On the axle in the upper part make transverse and longitudinal cuts.




2. Cut 5 wedges from solid wood.




3. The scrambled gauze in the resin is wound over the axle for a more dense passage in the eye.




4. We clog the axle in the eye of the ax.




5. Drive wedges in cuts.




6. After drying, the protruding parts of the wedges are cut.

Sharpening blade

A good feature of the ax will provide the correct sharpening blade. Depending on the type of work performed, select the sharpening angle.

For example, the taiga ax is sharpened at an angle of 25-30 degrees. If you need to chop fresh wood, it is necessary to sharpen at an angle of 25 degrees.

If a grinding circle is used, the volatile must be kept at an angle of 45 degrees. All movements are performed smoothly, without jerks.

As you can see, having a small set of tools in arsenal, the instruction for the manufacture of the ax, it is not at all difficult to make it under your sizes and needs.

See video instructions For the manufacture of a taiga ax do it yourself:

How to make your own hands at home is a good, reliable ax?

By converting a regular ax, you can give it the special properties necessary when working. Such an ax will serve much longer and better than the usual store. The hunter in the taiga could not do without a reliable ax, which should be universal as possible. There are many axes on sale: from large and medium-sized construction and carpentry to small solids suitable for various economic needs. But the taiga ax should possess special properties that can be given to a conventional ax, converting it.


The topor with steel soft and weakly tempered should be preferred ax with "dry" steel. When painting the blade, this lack is easy to eliminate the sharper sharpening. Shape sharpening should be parabolic, but not razor and not straight (Fig. 1). The ax does not join such a sharpening in the wood, the firewood is good, less stupid. With sufficient sharpness, such a blade is quite suitable for carpentry. Much in understanding of rationality gives the forms of old Russian axes, as well as the axes of Lesorbov Carpathians, North America, in which the upper edge of the blade never forms an angle greater than 90 ° with the axis of the axis of the axis. All axes are available on sale have a wide blade and protruding upper edge (Fig. 2). The shaded part sharply reduces the EXPOR's efficiency, since at the moment of impact, this part seeks to break the ax, creating in it. Unnecessary vibration, and thus quit the blow strength. To eliminate this disadvantage, the shaded part is removed. It is easiest to do this, drilled along a cut-off line of contacting holes, and to remove the abrasive part.
The direct blade of the ax must be changed to the convex (Fig. 3), if the blade quenching width allows. The straight edge is designed only for carpentry work, and when such a blade rubs, then simultaneously touching the whole edge and hitting the tree at a right angle, it has a weak penetrating ability. Each point of the convex edge enters the wood under an acute angle (Fig. 3), the cutting effect occurs, as a result of which the penetrating ability of such a blade increases sharply. Despite the fact that the weight of the ax after processing will decrease, its efficiency will increase. The author proposes two variants of the ax (see Fig. 4 and a photo). One of them is lightweight, designed for running hunting, small trips, also for fishing hunting in the presence of a saw. The total weight of such an ax is 800- 1000 g, the length of the axle is 40-60 cm. The other is heavy, for fishing hunting and long-distance travel, during which significant work has to be held. His weight is 1000-1400 g, the length of the axle is 55-65 cm. The choice of the length of the axle is determined by the quality of wood, the growth and force of the hunter.
Of course, the axes manually worked with blacksmiths - better and in steel and in the corner and balance, but there is one very capricious detail - a wooden pipeline. This item must be made by special technology. Making a toporishche, a wedge and landing of the ax far longer and more difficult than turning the ax (even, probably, Damasky) check how high-quality the ax and landing is made - much more difficult than checking the quality of the axis itself. In addition, the axle requires special daily care and certain content conditions. If all items were not fulfilled, the total is always one: either the ax flies or the axes break. Correcting the ax correctly, you can proceed to the manufacture of an ax. It should be thin. The smaller its weight relative to the weight of the ax, the stronger the blow. The axle should be flexible: a hard hatch "dries" hand. In cross section, it has an ovoid, but compressed shape with a more acute front and rounded back edges. It is best to produce an ax from a compence part of ash, maple, elm. You can use and whipped fine-layer birch. The most suitable komal thickness for the workpiece of the axle is 35-40 cm. Crude Comer must be split, then dried with squatched ends.



The axle with the longitudinal location of the layers (Fig. 5) is stronger. The center of gravity is found in front of the axle of the ax (Fig. 6). Usually this point (C) is located at the base of the eye. Then the middle line of the ax, passing through the middle of the bread and the top of the blade edge through the middle of the center. This line is a tangent for which the ax will move when hitting.

If you put the blade with a point in perpendicular to the average line AB to the plane, the end of the axle will have to touch the same plane at the point C. The middle line of the axle (PR) is performed, the point P is on this line and falls from the plane of SV by 3.5-4 See the cutting of the axle is clear from fig. 5, where the shaded parts of the workpiece must be cut off. The distance from the lower edge of the eyelers (point K) of the maximum bend point of the axle (point O) is 10-11 cm. At the point of hand holds an ax during carpentry. In this place, the cooler circumference is 12-13 cm, and the most subtle place at the end of the hatch is 9-10 cm. Finally, the thickness is adjusted by hand. The toporishche ends with a locking hand with thickening in the form of "fungus" (clearly visible in the photo). Such an ax is indispensable in cold and rain, when on the hands of gloves or mittens. "Mushroom" allows at the time of work to relax hands. The strength and accuracy of the "relaxed" axes do not compare with the blows of the ax, which has to keep tight, fearing to release it from the hands. On the workpiece under the "fungus" the thickening is provided in advance; It is processed in the last place to eliminate the chips when the ax was nozzle. Getting started to the nozzle, it is necessary to place the workpiece. Customizing the axle, should constantly check the angle of planting the applying of the ax to the plane (in fig. 6 is the line SV). In the axle, fitted for two thirds of the depth of the eye, on the same depth, it was done under the wedge (Fig. 6), after which the landing place is finally customized. Before the climb of the wedge, the axle with an arched ax is useful to dry for two or three days.
Immediately after fitting (or after drying), the ax is removed from the axle, the adjacent parts are abundantly lubricated with BF-2 glue and the ax is finally planted. On a pre-prepared wedge of a solid tree of wood (ash, maple, elm, apple tree, a pear) also apply glue and wedge clogged. So that the wedge does not break when driving, they make it short. For complete drying of the glue, the ax should be dried during the day on the battery or in the stove. Finally, the axle is treated by hand, shook and impregnated with olifa or flax oil.

The finished ax remains sharpened. A lot of strength and time will save the ax if his blade is always sharply sharpened. It is useful for this to have a plywood pocket carved in the size of the paddle pocket, placed on two sides by a waterproof eye-coarse and micron. Such a plywood is enough for the whole season if the ax does not require a serious flow.

The ax is actually a very important tool. Of course, if you are a real carpenter, then you must know how to make an ax, perfectly suitable for certain cases. Professional carpenter masters are usually involved several topores. Nevertheless, this type of instrument also needs people living outside the city, yes or just urban residents who leave occasionally for their country sites. After all, it is necessary to drown in the bath, and they can only be pinching them with the help of an ax. And so that there are no misunderstandings in the process, and the tool did not fail you, you should know about all the subtleties, how to make a topor with your own hands, as well as how to prepare it for work. The axia itself can be absolutely different in shape. But it is necessary to correctly plant an ax, to begin, and it is also necessary to sharpen at a certain angle.

Selecting an ax

When you stand before choosing, in the process of acquiring a stitching part, be sure to pay attention to the metal from which it is made. It must be the inscription GOST, confirming the execution in accordance with the norms and requirements. It is worth alert if you see a sign, sort of: Ost, ITUU, TU. In this case, the metal production technology could be changed by the manufacturer. If we talk about choosing a good Soviet ax, it is better to buy it on the usual market.

You can check the quality of the ax with an old way, hitting the blade of one about the blade of the other. If one of the products is made poorly, then it is traces from impact. Also, if the ax hang, you can knock on it and listen to the sound. It will be characteristic.

Pay attention to the fact that if the blade is good, dents or flaws there should not be; The eyelet should be cone-shaped; Also, the eyelet and blade should be coaxial; And there must be at least a small thickness of the footage, and its ends should be perpendicular to the blade.

If you failed to find such a product that would correspond to all standards. You can make a good ax. Even if some misunderstandings are found in the purchased product, they can be eliminated, sharpening the burrs, crowded the eyelashes, give a symmetric form.

Select the workpiece. Make a toporische

Based on how you have growth and strength, you should choose the length of the ax. The quality of the tree is also very important. For example, lightweight products, up to one kg weighing, the length of the handles is 40-60 cm. If we talk about a heavy ax - up to one and a half kilograms weighing, the length of the handle will be 55-65 cm.

To approach the question of how to make a wooden ax, it is necessary correctly. For example, not every tree is suitable for its handle. The most suitable options are the roasting part of the birch, as well as its growths; Maple or oak, ash and other wood species. It is very important to dry well preparations, and necessarily in vivo and considerable time.

You choose the instrument template in advance, and on the workpiece should be outline your template. The final part of the handle must be thickened so that the master can slow down the hand in the event that the ax will slip. The excess tree (behind the contour) should be removed by a knife, an ax with an ideally sharpened blade or other similar tools. After that, you need to make sure the correctness of the actions. Anscore to fit the ax on the toporishche using the Cyanka. Make sure these details fit very tight to each other. After you, you can proceed to further stripping. To cycle, you should apply glass, and grind - sandpaper shallow grain. Knowing how to make an ax from a tree, it is already half an end. But this is not all.

"Landing" of the ax on the handle

This process can be done, for example, in this way:

• A tip of the axle is adjusted in accordance with the eye. An unnecessary tree should be removed by a knife.

• The axle should be put horizontally on a flat solid surface, and to put an ax on top. On the handle you need to mark the pencil, to which it needs to be planted. By dividing the segment, you should put the second mark.

• Tischs should be clamped the axle so that a wider end is put up. Handling on metal should be cutting up to the 2nd mark right under the wedge.

• Wedge can be from the store, and also made of wood manually. Its thickness can be 5-10 mm, the length is the same as the depth of the cut, the width is equated with an eyeline of the ax.

• You need to put the board on the table, and put an ax, the top of my legs. The ax should be put on the toporishche, tapping them about the board. Next should be turned over and knock the handle during the plan. So turning over and tapping follows several times in a row. As a result, the axes must go to the eye.

• After that, the axle must be put up vertically, and in the propyl insert a wedge and score it with the help of a Cyan.

• On the axle should be applied oil, surplus glasses, and the tool will remain dried. After all, with the help of a vet, it is necessary to wipe the ax and handle.

In addition, you can view the video how to make an ax, with which you will be clearer the essence of the manufacture of the tool.

Sharpening of the blade of the ax

This question is very important that work tool does not bring inconvenience and trouble. In accordance with GOST, sharpening angle must be from twenty to thirty degrees. If you are a professional carpenter, then sharpening need to do at an angle of thirty-five degrees.

Upon completion of the work done by the ax, it is recommended to wear a cover on the blade. Be careful!

"The man is not a fur coat warms, but an ax" - Public wisdom says. An indispensable assistant in the farm, the "right hand" of any carpenter is all about a completely simple tool called an ax.

Whether it is an ax for cottage or for professional use, the demand for this tool will never disappear.

Conscientious attitude to operation, the ability to properly prepare a tool to work, will help not only avoid trouble, but also serve as a guarantee of the successful end of the planned work.

Experienced masters know how to make an ax. Having understood in technology and having studied practical recommendations, make a topor with their own hands will not be difficult and in the unprofessional.

Covering nozzle for ax

When choosing a stitching metal part for the future ax, the quality of the material deserves special attention. Made according to GOST parts, that's what you need.

It is worthwhile to avoid marking MRTU, the OST or TU on the nozzle, because these designations allow changing technologies in the process of pouring the part (third-party third-party substances are possible).

When you hit the blade about another, there should be no serifs on both. Fully excludes the curvature of the material, the presence of any kind of dentin, the curve of the blade axis.

The significance of the handle

It is possible to select the optimal length of the axle on the basis of the growth parameters of the wizard and the impact force. The force in turn directly depends on the length, so when working with a large ax, it will make it easier to cut the lamps of firewood.

Before making a choice should be decided on the desired result:

• the hard version of the tool (total weight is 1kg. -1.4 kg., The length of the handle from 55 to 65 cm.);
• lightweight option (weight 0.8kg-1 kg, with a length from 40 to 60 cm.).

The quality of wood, from which the Toporishch will be made is greater significance. For the manufacture, not every breed of wood is suitable. Often, for this purpose, birch (parts are near roots or stem growths).

There are also handles from oak, acacia, cock and other hardwood. All selected blanks need long drying.

After the wooden billet seeks well, the contours of the handle are drawn, according to a predetermined pattern. To avoid slipping hands while working and increase the convenience of the ax, at the end of the handle it is necessary to provide thickening.

Cut the outline will help the knife, chisel, electric jigsaw.

After fitting the axle of the ax and not finding any signs of a loose fit of the parts, you can safely continue the improvement of the ax. Glass will help bother the tool, and sandpaper is useful for grinding.

Handle setting

The correct execution of instructions on the nozzle will lead to an excellent result:

The eye of the stitching part must be adjusted under the top of the ax, the extra part of the wood is easy to remove with a knife.

Make a label on the axle, where the stitching part will end. To do this, it is necessary to put the handle of the lying, in order to avoid admission of inaccuracies. The resulting segment is divided by half, make the appropriate label.

Holding an ax, standing, you need to do it up to the second mark. It is made with a metal with a metal and is used for a wedge.

Stretching a wooden wedge similar to a pre-acquired metal. The width is equal to the size of the eyes, the thickness of the product is from 5 to 10 mm., And the length is equal to the depth of the cut.

Putting on the table the board, you need to put a stitching part on it, located upside down. Next, you should wear this part on the handle and slowly start tapping them about the board.

Periodically, it is necessary to change the method of tapping from the stitching part, to tapping the ax.

As soon as the stitching part logs in the eye, you need to put the ax vertically and insert a wooden wedge. Hoven for metal will help to sprill all the not necessary materials, which, as a result of the nozzles, will be on top.

At the end, oil is applied to the handle, and the product is perfectly dried. The correctness of the execution can be compared with the photo of the ax in the cottage placed below.

Sharpening blade

In order to avoid harness arising at the time of work, it is necessary to accommodately approach the blade sharpening. Regulatory indicators of GOST compliance:

• sharpening angle for construction work is 20-30 °;
• for carpentry skill 35 °.

Compliance with demands in the magnitude of sharpening is very important. The inconsistency of the degree leads to the fact that when cabing with an ax, the blade is stuck in the wood.

With primary sharpening, minor damage, shcherbinki and potholes are eliminated. After the secondary sharpening is carried out. The end of the process is the grinding process performed by fine-grained bar.

The instrument performed by the personally according to the instructions is always the best ax that can be in the country.

Photo of the best options for cottages