The effect of natural fats and oils on the skin. Unusual ingredients of Korean cosmetics. Synthetic fats and oils

Fatty oils - what is it?

Fatty or, as they are also called, base oils are products of 100% vegetable origin, obtained, most often, by cold pressing seeds, nuts, seeds or plant pulp. Some oils are in a liquid state, others remain solid even at room temperature - they are called butters.

Cold pressing allows you to largely preserve the natural strength of plants - useful biologically active substances, fatty acids, vitamins. The product obtained after pressing is subjected to high-quality cleaning by settling and filtration to remove mechanical particles of raw materials. Refining or refining is also carried out without exposure to high temperatures to preserve the unique properties of the oil.

The result is a completely natural product that contains no artificial colors, preservatives or fragrances. In terms of their composition and useful properties, fatty oils of vegetable origin are many times superior to all chemical substitutes invented by man, which are widely used in cosmetology today.

Fatty oils are a viable alternative to many creams and lotions. They are distinguished by high biological value - they contain natural fatty acids, some of which the human body does not produce on its own, but can only receive from the outside, vitamins, phospholipids, phytosterols, powerful natural antioxidants. They effectively care for the skin, hair and nails - protect, nourish, restore. These are natural time retarders, keepers of youth and beauty.

Classification of fatty vegetable oils

The composition of natural vegetable oils includes more than 200 fatty acids. Fatty acids can be saturated or unsaturated. Unsaturated, in turn, can be poly- or monounsaturated. Butters (solid oils) are dominated by saturated fatty acids. Liquid oils are dominated by unsaturated fatty acids.

We can conditionally distinguish 4 main groups of fatty oils, depending on the content of the dominant fatty acid and its main effect on the skin:

Saturated fatty acids. Moisturizing
Polyunsaturated fatty acids Omega-3. Recovery
Polyunsaturated fatty acids Omega-6. Food
Monounsaturated fatty acids Omega-9. Elasticity and tone

Contraindications for the use of fatty oils

individual intolerance (allergic reactions, etc.)

Types of use of fatty vegetable oils

To date, fatty oils are widely used in cosmetology for the care and nutrition of the face and body, both alone and in combination with essential oils, including for:

Enrichment of cosmetics
Face and body massage
Masks for hair and scalp
Facial cleansing
Skin care after sun
Nail and cuticle care
Masks, applications, compresses for face and body
Skin care after bath/shower
Bath for hands and nails
Enrichment with essential oils

Unlike essential oils, most natural fatty oils are odorless. Fatty oils act as "transport traps" for essential oils - as they essential oils are very volatile and evaporate quickly in air. With the help of fatty oil, the beneficial properties and aroma of the essential oil will be delivered to the destination without loss. In addition, the beneficial properties of fatty and essential oils are not lost when mixed, but successfully work on the principle of synergy.

It is important to remember the main difference in the use of fatty and essential oils in skin care:

FIXED OILS can be used alone, both in pure form and mixed with other oils.

ESSENTIAL OILS can be used in most cases ONLY in a mixture with any fatty oil as a base or transport. If pure essential oil is applied to the skin, there will be a burn. The exception is tea tree oil and lavender - they can be applied pointwise to areas of inflammation.

Proportion of enrichment of fatty oil with essential oil:

5 ml (1 teaspoon) base oil - 3-5 drops of essential oil
30 ml base oil - 12-30 drops of essential oil
50 ml base oil - 30-50 drops of essential oil

Fatty oil is not suitable for oily skin - is it?

There is a completely erroneous stereotype that fatty oil is categorically not suitable for owners of oily skin. In fact, fatty oils will help restore smoothness, even color and velvety to the skin of the face. The main thing is to choose the right oil for your skin type. For example, there are fatty oils that are especially recommended for targeted care for oily and combination skin. Among them is grape seed oil - it eliminates oily sheen, tightens pores, mattifies. Jojoba oil removes excess sebum, promotes healing of the skin with acne, showing its anti-inflammatory and regenerating qualities. St. John's wort and hemp oil have similar properties.

On the labels of many modern cosmetics, you can read the inscription oil free, which means "does not contain oil." Is it good or bad? And if cosmetics do not contain oil, then what does it contain instead, and does our skin need it? After all, from time immemorial, oils have been used to soften the skin and protect it from dehydration. What changed?

In the 90s The sympathies of consumers and cosmetics manufacturers turned away from natural oils, and this happened for two reasons. Firstly, science has shown that fat is bad, as excessive consumption of fat leads to atherosclerosis, obesity and a number of other health problems. Secondly, silicones came into cosmetic production (in the list of ingredients they can be distinguished by the ending "con", for example, simethicone, cyclodimethicone, etc.) and synthetic derivatives of fatty acids (they usually have complex names, such as isopropyl myristate, etc.) and other achievements of cosmetic chemistry. With these substances, it became possible to create cosmetics with precisely defined characteristics, which is very difficult with natural oils.

Now consumers are already accustomed to modern creams that do not leave a greasy sheen and almost instantly improve the appearance of the skin, which cosmetics fit well and which have an attractive appearance, therefore, no matter how we treat silicones and other "synthetics" in cosmetics, the reverse there is no way, the creation of modern cosmetics is impossible without them.

So what about oils? Is it necessary to avoid them when choosing "non-oily" cosmetics, or are they still needed for some reason? It turns out that some, well-defined, fats the skin needs, and, moreover, it needs them. Because cosmetic oils not only spread over the skin, lubricate it and, to some extent, reduce water loss, they also supply the building material for lipids (fat-like substances) of the skin. It has been proven that the skin is able to break down the lipids that make up cosmetics and use the resulting fragments to build those lipids that it needs.

Oils and fats included in cosmetics can be divided into saturated and unsaturated. The properties of oils are determined by the building blocks of which they are built - fatty acids. If there are many saturated acids in the oil, then it will be solid at room temperature, and if unsaturated acids predominate, then the oil will be liquid.

In general, the skin needs both saturated and unsaturated fatty acids. But she can synthesize saturated fatty acids herself, although, having received them in finished form, she readily uses them. But among the unsaturated fatty acids, there are those that the body can only receive from the outside - with food or through the skin. That is why they are called essential fatty acids. These include linoleic and linolenic acids, as well as their derivatives - gamma-linolenic, arachidonic and some others.

Linoleic acid widespread. Usually those who consume enough vegetable oils do not experience a shortage of this acid. Unfortunately, the skin's ability to make other essential fatty acids from linoleic acid is sometimes impaired. The reasons for this may be different - stress, alcohol, diseases, aging, etc. It is important that the skin begins to need not only linoleic acid, but also its derivative - gamma-linolenic acid, or GLA. But it is found only in some oils. GLA sources are usually borage oil, evening primrose oil, or black current seed oil.

Sometimes, both with food and with cosmetics, the body does not receive the fatty acids that it needs. This happens when the food is dominated by meat products, which contain mainly saturated fat, or when cosmetics contain non-living oils such as paraffin, petroleum jelly, silicone oil instead of natural oils. In this case, the skin has no choice but to synthesize all the fatty acids on its own. And, of course, almost all of them are saturated. Thus, a deficiency of essential fatty acids is formed in the skin, which immediately affects its appearance.

Symptoms of deficiency of essential fatty acids in the skin have been described since the 1930s. This is dryness, peeling, increased sensitivity and irritability of the skin, which is manifested by redness and itching. It has now been shown that with a deficiency of essential fatty acids, firstly, a violation of the barrier properties of the skin occurs, as a result of which irritating substances, allergens, microorganisms begin to penetrate into it more easily, and, secondly, a change in skin reactivity towards a greater tendency to inflammatory reactions. The disruption of the skin barrier layer caused by a deficiency of essential fatty acids plays an important role in initiating skin diseases such as eczema, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and more. Even allergies or skin infections often result from a breach in the skin's barrier properties, as germs and allergens are more likely to enter the skin through a damaged barrier. On the other hand, dryness and hypersensitivity of the skin caused by a deficiency of essential fatty acids is one of the few cosmetic problems that are relatively easy to fix.

Now essential fatty acids are available in natural oils (liquid and capsules), in pure form (essential fatty acid complex), in creams and complex nutritional supplements. The best and most balanced in composition is blackcurrant oil, which contains not only linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids (the so-called omega 6 acids), but also linolenic acid (omega 3 acid). Nevertheless, abroad, from where nutritional supplements mainly come to us, oils of primrose (evening primrose oil) and borage oil (borage oil) are traditionally more popular. In addition to these oils, you should take an oil containing linolenic acid, such as flaxseed oil, or fish oil. These oils should be taken orally and applied to the skin in the evening (never during the day, as they are easily oxidized by the sun and can then become toxic to the skin).

The skin needs not only to disassemble the oils received from the outside into fatty acids, but also to synthesize the variations it needs from these fatty acids. This process involves a number of enzymes that are very sensitive to damage. Therefore, during the period of restoring the biological balance of your skin, it is necessary to limit as much as possible the harmful effects on it (UV radiation, alcohol, cigarette smoke, cosmetics containing alcohol and acetone, surfactants). You should wash your face with soap no more than once a day, using over-fatted soap (or special soap for sensitive skin), and after washing, apply cosmetic oils or a moisturizer to your face.

In conclusion, essential fatty acids are important not only for the skin, because the body needs them just as much as vitamins and minerals. Studies show that essential fatty acids help reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease, improve the functioning of the immune and nervous systems, and even reduce the symptoms of menopause. Therefore, now, in contrast to the old slogan "fat is bad" (fat is bad), which at one time led to the appearance of low-fat products and low-fat cosmetics on the shelves of American stores, a new one is being put forward - "get a good fat" (get a good fat) . Accordingly, the period of fighting all fats in food and cosmetics should soon end and give way to a more reasonable attitude.

Asian brands do not stop improving, constantly creating new skin care products. If everything is more or less clear with their purpose, then with the composition it is somewhat more complicated. Often in creams, mousses, foams and serums there are ingredients that are exotic for European users. About one that is no longer surprising, we wrote earlier - this is snail mucin (or, more simply, snail mucus). It remains one of the favorite components of Korean cosmetologists, especially found in antiage products. Today - about other popular and unusual ingredients of cosmetics from South Korea.

horse oil

Let's make a reservation right away, “horse oil” is ordinary horse fat that has undergone fermentation and purification. In cosmetics entering our markets, it appeared relatively recently, but in China, Japan and Korea it has been used for many hundreds of years. Initially, horse fat was used in medicine as an excellent healing agent, then it migrated to cosmetology.

This cosmetic ingredient may shock some, but the use of animal fats in the beauty industry has long been a well-known method that brings positive results. For example, in our homeland, mink fat, badger and bear fat are actively used. In addition, Asian producers, at least luxury ones, claim that animals are not killed to obtain this oil. There are special farms where horses are kept in excellent conditions, and fat is obtained by very gentle liposuction. We cannot verify the veracity of these statements, but we will hope so.

Why is horse oil so useful? Animal fats, for obvious reasons, are much closer in structure and composition to their own human fats, and therefore are absorbed by our body much faster and better than vegetable fats. Horse fat lipids are very similar to human skin lipids, so they penetrate deeply (in a fermented form, this ability is 15 times higher). Horse oil is rich in fatty acids (arachidonic, linoleic, alpha lipoic) and vitamins A and E.

In cosmetics, horse oil has the following effects:

hydration
elimination of peeling
removal of irritations
UV protection
prevention of age spots and freckles

Crocodile oil

It turned out that the crocodile is an incredibly useful reptile. An individual grown on a special crocodile farm is used to the maximum. Meat goes to restaurants; the skin is for the benefit of lovers of bags, belts and other haberdashery; fat, and sometimes blood - in cosmetology and medicine.

Scientists turned their attention to this animal because of its amazing ability to live (and stay healthy) in an environment filled with various types of bacteria. At the same time, crocodiles that received non-fatal wounds recover very quickly. Now Australian scientists are working on the creation of a unique antibiotic based on crocodile blood plasma.

We will talk about crocodile oil (as in the case of horse oil, the name hides a fermented and refined fat). It is mined on farms when animals are slaughtered. By the way, from one adult crocodile you can get only about 800 g of fat, so this product is not cheap.
This oil came to cosmetology, again, from traditional medicine. In Africa and Asia, various wounds, ulcers and skin diseases were actively treated with crocodile fat. He has unique regenerative abilities. Crocodile oil contains Omega-3, 6 and 9 acids, which the human body cannot synthesize on its own, and which are so necessary for our skin in the fight against age-related changes. Peptides of crocodile fat have a disinfecting effect, help eliminate traces of skin damage. Lipids, in turn, deeply nourish and moisturize the skin.

In cosmetics, crocodile oil is used for:

skin regeneration
fight against aging
food
hydration
elimination of bruises, pigmentation, traces of scars

Swallow's Nest Extract

It sounds strange, especially for the inhabitants of our latitudes, who immediately imagine a nest of clay and straw. But we are not even talking about swallows ... The fact is that in Asia they use nests of swifts-salangans, which look a bit like the swallows we are used to, only smaller in size. These birds nest on the shores of the South China Sea and the Bay of Bengal. The main material for building nests of salangans is their own saliva. There are also inclusions of dried mollusks, small shells and algae.

These birds prefer to build nests under the very ceiling in grottoes and caves, so getting them in their natural environment is a rather dangerous occupation. In addition, now the extraction of nests is a strictly accountable matter, so that swifts do not completely disappear from the face of the earth. But as the demand for swallow nests (as they are commonly called all over the world) is growing, enterprising Asians have set about creating special farms to grow them. To do this, they build multi-storey concrete structures where the required temperature and humidity are maintained, and where, with the help of the sounds of singing swifts and the specific aroma of bird droppings, salangans are lured.

Of course, no one cuts nests if they have eggs (this rule also applies in the natural habitat of birds), but this does not make the life of swifts much easier. The fact is that the poor bird has to rebuild its home up to four times, each time accelerating the pace, because the offspring must be bred at the right time. But this is not so sad, because everyone remains alive. By the way, nests made of pure saliva, without any impurities, are most valued.

Swallow's nests are used in medicine, cosmetology and cooking (I think many have heard of the exotic swallow's nest soup). What is so magical contained in the bird's dwelling? Since birds build their nests from seaweed and mollusks, the extract from it contains a large amount of iodine, as well as phosphorus, calcium, iron and a large amount of amino acids. And most importantly, it is the saliva of the salangans itself, it consists of glycoproteins and contains EGF (epidermal growth factor). It is a protein that stimulates the growth and division of skin cells.

Cosmetics containing swallow's nest extract have the following properties:

regeneration at the cellular level
wrinkle smoothing
return of skin elasticity
nutrition of epidermal cells

web proteins

Genetic engineering has crossed paths with cosmetology more than once. This is exactly what happened when, in 2013, the German company AMSilk was able to make a protein in the laboratory similar to what spiders use to build their webs. Prior to this, scientists have been exploring the unique web of spiders for many years, as one of the most durable and at the same time elastic materials. But it turned out to be too difficult to extract it naturally. Later, the production of this silk protein was established in other countries, including Korea.

Spider silk (another name for spider web protein) is made by inserting spider genes into E. coli bacteria. Proteins are widely used not only in cosmetics, but also in medicine and are being introduced into the textile industry. A big plus is that under laboratory conditions, spider webs can be produced in unlimited quantities.

Spider web proteins contain more than 20 amino acids that are beneficial to human skin and are involved in the processes of regeneration and restoration of epithelial cells. Also, spider silk proteins are able to regulate the production of elastin, which leads to an increase in skin elasticity.

Web proteins are used in cosmetics for:

skin cell regeneration
return of elasticity to aging skin
skin nutrition
alignment of the hair structure

Now consumers are already accustomed to modern creams that do not leave a greasy sheen and almost instantly improve the appearance of the skin, which cosmetics fit well and have an attractive appearance, therefore, no matter how we treat silicones and other “synthetics” in cosmetics, the reverse there is no way, the creation of modern cosmetics is impossible without them.

So what about oils? Is it necessary to avoid them when choosing “non-oily” cosmetics, or are they still needed for some reason? It turns out that some, well-defined, fats the skin needs, and, moreover, it needs them. Because cosmetic oils not only spread over the skin, lubricate it and, to some extent, reduce water loss, they also supply the building material for lipids (fat-like substances) of the skin. It has been proven that the skin is able to break down the lipids that make up cosmetics and use the resulting fragments to build those lipids that it needs.

What "healthy" fats does the skin need?

Oils and fats included in cosmetics can be divided into saturated and unsaturated. The properties of oils are determined by the building blocks of which they are built - fatty acids. If there are many saturated acids in the oil, then it will be solid at room temperature, and if unsaturated acids predominate, then the oil will be liquid.

Unsaturated fatty acids are only obtained from food or through the skin.

SPA Facials - The Best Salvation

Symptoms of deficiency of essential fatty acids in the skin are dryness, flaking, increased sensitivity and irritability of the skin, which is manifested by redness and itching. All of these symptoms, caused by a deficiency of essential fatty acids, are one of the few cosmetic problems that are relatively easy to fix.

The surest way is spa treatments for facial skin. In modern cosmetology, a whole course is widely used, designed specifically to restore damaged facial skin. Spa treatments for facial care will help restore youthfulness and elasticity of the skin, as well as eliminate such negative manifestations of external environmental influences as dryness, irritation and swelling. The L’Occitane SPA cosmetologist will take into account all the needs of your skin and select the right SPA program for you, draw up a home care system and give useful recommendations.

For example, "Absolute comfort and nutrition." This facial is our all-in-one treatment for dry, thin or dehydrated skin. Means from the famous "Karite" line, thanks to the miraculous oil, will prevent the premature appearance of mimic wrinkles, give the skin a feeling of comfort, and relieve the feeling of tightness and peeling.

This treatment is based on the signature facial massage technique with alternating drainage and lifting movements. Particular attention during lymphatic drainage massage is given to active points located on the chin, cheekbones, neck and décolleté, which helps to stimulate blood circulation in the skin, improves metabolism and removes toxins, and the lifting massage technique will help maintain smoothness and elasticity of the skin. This treatment is the ideal ultra-nourishing complex in SPA L'Occitane. For a more relaxing effect, this treatment is accompanied by an additional scalp massage. The procedure also includes foot care - a warm foot compress with essential oils, acupressure of the feet, a foot wrap based on nourishing Shea butter cream. And hand care - scrub, massage, hand wrap based on nourishing Shea cream.

Now essential fatty acids are available in natural oils (liquid and capsules), in pure form (essential fatty acid complex), in creams and complex nutritional supplements.

Today, in contrast to the old slogan "fat is bad" (fat is bad), which at one time led to the appearance on the shelves of American stores of low-fat products and low-fat cosmetics, a new one is being put forward - "get a good fat" (get a good fat). ). Accordingly, the period of fighting all fats in food and cosmetics should soon end and give way to a more reasonable attitude.

The properties of oils are determined by the bricks from which they are built - fatty acids, which in turn are divided into saturated and unsaturated .. If there are a lot of saturated acids in the oil, then it will be solid at room temperature, and if unsaturated acids predominate, then the oil will be liquid.
Both saturated and unsaturated fatty acids are essential for the skin. But she can synthesize saturated fatty acids herself, although, having received them in finished form, she readily uses them. But among the unsaturated fatty acids, there are those that the body can only receive from the outside - with food or through the skin. That is why they are called essential fatty acids. These include linoleic and linolenic acids, as well as their derivatives - gamma-linolenic, arachidonic and some others.

Linoleic acid is widely distributed. Usually those who consume enough vegetable oils do not experience a shortage of this acid. Unfortunately, the skin's ability to make other essential fatty acids from linoleic acid is sometimes impaired. The reasons for this may be different - stress, alcohol, diseases, aging, etc. It is important that the skin begins to need not only linoleic acid, but also its derivative - gamma-linolenic acid, or GLA. But it is found only in some oils. GLA sources are usually borage oil, evening primrose oil, or black current seed oil.
Sometimes, both with food and cosmetics, the body does not receive the fatty acids it needs. This happens when the food is dominated by meat products, which contain mainly saturated fat, or when cosmetics contain non-living oils such as paraffin, petroleum jelly, silicone oil instead of natural oils. In this case, the skin has no choice but to synthesize all the fatty acids on its own. And, of course, almost all of them are saturated. Thus, a deficiency of essential fatty acids is formed in the skin, which immediately affects its appearance.

Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency Symptoms in the skin: dryness, peeling, increased sensitivity and irritability of the skin, which is manifested by redness and itching. It has now been shown that with a deficiency of essential fatty acids, the following occurs:
1. Violation of the barrier properties of the skin, as a result of which irritants, allergens, microorganisms begin to penetrate into it more easily;
2. Change in skin reactivity towards a greater tendency to an inflammatory reaction.
The disruption of the skin barrier layer caused by a deficiency of essential fatty acids plays an important role in initiating skin diseases such as eczema, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and more. Allergies or skin infections often occur due to a violation of the barrier properties of the skin, since germs and allergens are more likely to enter the skin through a damaged barrier. On the other hand, dryness and hypersensitivity of the skin caused by a deficiency of essential fatty acids is one of the few cosmetic problems that are relatively easy to fix.

Today, essential fatty acids are available in natural oils (liquid and capsules), in pure form (essential fatty acid complex), in creams and complex nutritional supplements. All this can be purchased in our online store of natural cosmetics Salsabeel. The best and most balanced in composition is blackcurrant oil, which contains not only linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids (the so-called omega 6 acids), but also linolenic acid (omega 3 acid). Nevertheless, abroad, from where nutritional supplements mainly come to us, oils of primrose (evening primrose oil) and borage oil (borage oil) are traditionally more popular. In addition to these oils, you should take an oil containing linolenic acid, such as flaxseed oil, or fish oil. These oils should be taken orally and applied to the skin in the evening (never during the day, as they are easily oxidized by the sun and can then become toxic to the skin).

In order to encourage the skin to actively use essential fatty acids, which come from oils, cosmetics or nutritional supplements, it is necessary to limit the intake of saturated fat in the body in any form (in creams or with food). It is equally important to avoid foods that contain hydrogenated fats (margarines), as they contain dangerous counterparts of essential fatty acids - trans-fatty acids. Body cells are often misled and taking trans-isomers for normal, natural acids, they try to involve them in their metabolism. However, these changelings are not capable of performing any useful biological function, but, on the contrary, they interfere with everyone and tend to take other people's places, which leads to various disturbances in the functioning of cells.
The skin needs not only to disassemble the oils received from the outside into fatty acids, but also to synthesize the variations it needs from these fatty acids. This process involves a number of enzymes that are very sensitive to damage. Therefore, during the period of restoring the biological balance of your skin, it is necessary to limit as much as possible the harmful effects on it (UV radiation, alcohol, cigarette smoke, cosmetics containing alcohol and acetone, surfactants). You should wash your face with soap no more than once a day, using over-fatted soap (or a special soap for sensitive skin), and after washing, apply cosmetic oils to your face.

Essential fatty acids are important not only for the skin, because the body needs them just as much as vitamins and minerals. Research shows that essential fatty acids help reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease, improve the functioning of the immune and nervous systems, and even reduce the unpleasant symptoms of menopause. Therefore, now, in contrast to the old slogan "fat is bad" (fat is bad), which at one time led to the appearance of low-fat products and low-fat cosmetics on the shelves of American stores, a new one is being put forward - "get a good fat" (get a good fat) . Accordingly, the period of fighting all fats in food and cosmetics should soon end and give way to a more reasonable attitude.