Repairs Design Furniture

How to put a paneur to the floor in the apartment. How to strip Phaneur on the wooden floor: What Phaneur to choose and laying methods. Formation of power frame

The dry band screed is most often performed from plywood sheets. It is believed that this is the ideal base for any types of floor covering, including linoleum, laminate, carpet and even ceramic tiles. The qualitative and durable floor of the lagham plywood requires attention to the nuances and compliance with the basic rules indicated in SNiP.

Plywood is a multi-layer wood-sheet material, which is manufactured by cross gluing the odd number of reservoir veneers. For production, birch raw materials or coniferous breeds of technical varieties are most often used, less often - oak, beech, linden and others.

Plywood advantages:

  • high mechanical strength to any loads;
  • relatively low weight;
  • low thermal conductivity coefficient;
  • an acceptable level of humidity (8-12%), which allows the use of some types of plywood in raw and unwapped rooms: kitchens, bathrooms, balconies, loggias, etc.;
  • application in combination with "warm floors" systems of water and infrared type.

The minus of the sheet material is that glue compositions are used for production, unsafe for people's health. As a rule, the products are assigned the emission class not lower than E1.

Plywood products are classified according to the following features:

Scope of application.

The areas of application of the sheet material are limitless - from construction to electrical engineering. But to form a collection of screed or finishing gender, it is recommended to use structural and construction species.

Brand.

This parameter is determined by the type of adhesive used. Consider three basic types:

  • FSF (plywood punched by resin phenol formaldehyde glue). The product is considered moisture-resistant, used to finish the premises with a normal and high level of humidity.
  • FC (plywood glued using carbamide-formaldehyde glue). Refers to the products of medium moisture resistance, it is recommended for use in dry rooms.
  • FBA (plate on albumin - caseinov Clee). Positioned as material limited moisture resistance.

Grade.

According to GOST 3916.1- 96, the products differ in the number of permissible defects and vices of wood, as well as marriage to be processed. Distinguish five degrees of quality:

  • E - Extra or elite. The product is made of oak, alder, birch and other breeds, has a perfectly smooth, smooth surface, there are no slightest defects. An insignificant deviation in the structure of a random type of wood is allowed.
  • I - Possible pin and healthy light or dark bitch - no more than 3-5 pcs. On each square meter of the surface. The gaps (except closed cracks) and other types of marriage are excluded.
  • II - Healthy, partially struck, unreliable and drop-down swallows with a diameter of up to 6 mm, inserts from wood and separated cracks up to 200 mm long and width of no more than 2 mm.
  • III - There are: a) worms and holes from the dropped bitch with a diameter of up to 6 mm in the amount of no more than 10 pcs. on 1 m² of area; b) saved cracks with a length of 300- 600 mm and a width of up to 5 mm (provided with putty with putty or sealants); c) dents and scallops.
  • IV - Surface with all sorts of vices: from controversial and dropped bitch without limiting the number to defects on the edges of a depth of up to 5 mm.

For the draft floor on lags, as a rule, sheet material 1- 4 of the quality of quality is used. Note: Plywood usually has a double marking, for example, 1/2 or 2/2. Corresponds to the variety of each side. That is, a class 1/3 product is characterized by the fact that a category 1 is assigned to one surface, and the second - 3.

Processing character.

Grinded and unlocked plywood.

Plywood plates are polished and unlighted. Marked:

  • C1 - processed only on the one hand.
  • S2 - polished on both sides.
  • NSh - unlocked.

Laying of sex on lags is made using plates of any kind. But common sense suggests that it is better to use products polished at least on the one hand. This will create the most smooth and smooth floor under the installation of linoleum, laminate, etc.

Dimensions.

The length of the plywood sheets can reach 6 m, width 3 m, and the thickness starts from 3 mm. For roughing and clean work on horizontal bases, material is used:

  • 1525x1525 - the most commonly used gender size for lags. The number of waste is small, convenient in transportation.
  • 1210х2440 - for leveling grounds in multi-storey buildings of typical series with elongated forms of rooms.
  • 500x3000 - convenient in high-rise or commercial new buildings, where the principle of studios or free layout is implemented.

The optimal thickness of the plywood for sex on lags depends on the type of collection of screed and the level of load. If installing in two layers is supposed, it is better to choose the products with a cross section of 8-12 mm, and for one-layer laying - 8-22 mm.

Lags and fasteners

Snip 3.04.01- 87 (SP 71.13330.2017) "Insulating and finishing coatings" for the formation of sex on lags use a wooden chamber drying ram, a humidity of 12-18%, without cracks, crust and traces of rot. In this case, the length of the jackets must be at least 2 m, the thickness is from 40 mm, and the width is 80-100 mm.

Although many specialists recommend purchasing rails with the aspect ratio of 1: 1.5 and 1: 2, in practice, lags 50x40, 50x50, 50x70 and more are most often used. Moreover, the height of the support elements depends on different parameters: the level of load, the cross section of the insulation used, the limit height of the floor and even the personal preferences of the customer. There are no universal recommendations, components are selected in each case separately.

To improve the carrier frame in apartments and private houses, the maximum smooth, durable bar of inexpensive breeds: Pine, spruce. If finance allow, you can purchase products from larch-resistant dresses, aspen, alder.

Do not forget that wooden structural elements do not differ in high biostability. Therefore, they must be treated with fungicidal and hydrophobic means. This will significantly increase the service life of the entire floor design.

We will not be able to mention the lining elements for lags. Construction standards and rules do not recommend using wooden wedges and bobes due to the fact that the material easily changes the form when the moisture differences. When installing on a concrete or milking overlap, a mineral screed or point supports under the timber, it is better to lower the bars from the organity.

In practice, many masters prefer to put on floor slices of OSB, chipboard, MDF or moisture-resistant plywood. The minimum lining size must be 10x10 cm or 10x15 cm, the interval between them is at least 30 cm.

Laying the lag on glued plywood lining.

Alternatively, insensitive to moisture, you can use special support and fastening elements with an anti-corrosion coating designed for the device adjustable floors.

Consider another important component of the outdoor design - hardware. In addition to the lag, you will need fasteners for fixing them to the base, as well as for fastening the plywood sheets on the frame. It may be anchors, nails, universal self-tapping screws or with self-negative hats, metal corners, etc.

The range of fasteners is huge. To fix lining or directly, a dowel - nails with a thread with a diameter of at least 6 mm or metal anchors of mechanical type are most often used. The first cost cheaper, but the second provides more reliable and durable fixation of the regions to the base.

An example of fixing the lag to the floor of the corners.

Anchor fasteners for concrete and brick is made of high-quality alloys - brass, stainless steel. It consists of a spacer or working sleeve (changes the sizes when the connection is formed) and not the spacer part - the rod. To mount the frame to the base in the concrete, a hole of a diameter of a liner can be dried or less than 0.5 mm. When driving or screwing down the fastener rack, cuts the sleeve inserted into the channel. And due to this, firmly fixed in concrete.

The dimensions of the metician product depend on the dimensions of the supports. To mount the lining elements from chipboard, plywood, OSP, as well as wooden lags are most often used Category M 6 M.12, that is, with a rod or wedge diameter from 6 to 12 mm. The length is selected based on the thickness of the lag and / or the lining supports, taking into account the depth of administration to the concrete from 5 cm and more. The approximate interval between the fasteners is 30-60 cm.

To rigidly attach lining or lags to the wooden draft floor, you can use a tree screws with a rare thread or universal galvanized with a diameter of 4 mm. The distance between the methms is at least 30 cm, the depth of screwing is from 30 mm.
For fastening plywood to lags it is the most convenient to use special tapes for GVL and chipboard or universal galvanized. The first is different from standard mixed screw threads and notches on a cone-shaped hat, providing a spray. The length of the metric must be 2- 2.5 times the thickness of the coating, the diameter is from 3.5 mm and more.

For plywood on the lags it is not recommended to use ferrous coiled vehicle tapping screws. Practice shows that during seasonal changes in geometric sizes, this type of hardware is broken under load, and the design "loses" stiffness.

You can also apply conventional nails with a cylindrical rod and an acute end. Efficiency and speed will increase several times, if you use fastener not by the scatter, but in a magazine intended for a neural train. The product is targeted to the base or carrier frame often - at a distance of 15-25 cm.

Step-by-step instruction

For installation, with their own hands, the team is required:

  1. Sheets of plywood suitable thickness.
  2. Wooden lagows.
  3. Lining material for alignment of the base.
  4. Antiseptic primer.
  5. Hardware.
  6. Noise isolation and / or heat insulation with components.
  7. Repair formulations for partial restoration of damaged base.
  8. Waterproofing.
  9. Dampfer tape.
  10. Silicone sealant or elastic wood powder.
  11. Roulette, markup pencil, metal or rail ruler.
  12. Drill / screwdriver or hammer / nail gun (neiler) with components.
  13. Level laser or water.
  14. Spathers, brushes, rollers.
  15. Cutting tool with wood and plywood components (circular saw, electrolovka, etc.).
  16. Grinder machine.

The technology of work on the installation of the team screed is partially represented in SNiP 3.04.01- 87 (SP 71.13330.2017) "Insulating and finishing coatings". In accordance with the recommendations of the specified norms, the laying is carried out in the 4 stages.

Preparation

Any repairs begins with cleaning the base from garbage, dirt and dust. Oil, bituminous and similar stains, spots and soot traces desirable to remove from the surface.

No professional will start working without partial repair of damaged areas. Ugly, spoiled elements of wooden flooring need to be replaced, and cracks and loose areas of mineral base - to restore. To do this, it is necessary to split the gaps, remove dust and fill in the repair compositions. The fragile sections can be considered better as possible, and the formed fumes are smoothed with cement-sand, bulk and other quick-drying mixtures.

If necessary, floor insulation is carried out. It is needed if:

  • it is required to protect the design from the residual moisture content of the concrete base;
  • under the overlap is a cold basement;
  • the floor on the lags is arranged in the bathroom and should be protected from possible leaks the room located below.

To create waterproofing uses the entire affordable range of materials: films, membranes, rolled glove products, coating compositions, painting agents, and the like.

In some cases, sound insulation of the base is required. According to the rules, the acoustic layer lays between the base floor and the screed. Therefore, noise absorbing mats are laid under lags. If the insulating mineral wool is used (stone or glass), then it must be laid in the openings between the lags, and the support rails themselves are fixed using point acoustic gaskets.

Laying lag on acoustic gaskets.

It is desirable at this stage to process the timber, bobbies and other wooden structural elements with antiseptic impregnations.

Formation of power frame

Lag frame can be formal as longitudinally located beams or as a single either double case. Of course, the second option creates a more reliable support for plywood.

SNiP 3.04.01- 87 (SP 71.13330.2017) recommends laying the rails across the light flux, and in corridors and other rooms with a certain direction of foot traffic - perpendicular to the movement. Of course, in the future the frame will not be visible under the coating, but the essence of the Council in another. Construction standard developers determined that if the framework shape across the most intense course of people, then the loads will be distributed on most of the power frame supports, and not 2-3 elements. Or worse - between them.

First of all, the zero mark is revealed, relative to which supports are aligned. Next, the beams for a lag timber bar are mounted or the required level is littered on the wall. But the most convenient way to build a reference line is a laser level with a plane builder.

If sound insulation is required, before installing the carrier frame, it is necessary to wall on the base of the acoustic material: plates, membranes, rolling products.

Now you can start installing lag in compliance with all the necessary gaps:

  • Between the extreme rail and the wall - at least 20 mm.
  • Between adjacent supports - from 30 cm, but not more than 50 cm. We remind you: the higher the load on the floor, the more often the lags should stand.
  • Between the ends of one row - 0- 0.5 cm.

For alignment under the frame elements, gaskets are installed from chipboard, OSP, MDF, etc. After checking the level of the bobbish or lining plates, they are attached to the base dowel - nails, self-drawing or anchors.

Plywood lining.

Lags on wooden bobbs.

For drilling holes for hardware in the lp\u003e components, lags and plywood it is worth purchasing feather or special drills on a tree with a zenkovka.

For firmly fixed supports, many masters recommend to lay damped layers. Such a preventive measure will not allow the design in the future to start creaking.

The penultimate step is fixing the lag throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe room using suitable hardware. Please note that in the doorways should be treated with a ruined rail, which will perform for a partition 50- 100 mm on each side.

For maximum alignment accuracy, you can use fastening and support hardware, intended for adjustable floors. In essence, these are powerful anchors that are installed in the slab overlap. Adjusting nuts are twisted on the main bolts, then the timber is placed and fixed with lock nut. The surplus of the anchor rod is cut with a grinder or saw for metal.

If the floor insulation is planned, then under the framework, in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations, you need to lay vaporizolation. But after installing the lag to the "windows" formed, the appropriate thermal insulation material is stacked: mineral wool, ceramzit, eco-water, linen or synthetic mats.

Laying plywood plates

The most controversial question is the thickness and number of plywood layers. There is no single right opinion. It is clear that the higher the alleged load on the floor (the weight of the furniture, the intensity of the foot traffic, etc.), the greater there should be a plate thickness and less distance between lags. This will avoid the deflection of the design and its damage.

What type of floor is the best - one- or multi-layered? There is no definite answer to this question. Each view has its advantages and disadvantages. But the total thickness of the plywood flooring should remain constant - at least 18 mm.

Installation of plates begins with their preparation. It should be cut them into the desired dimensions, make rugs for communication or enclosing structures of complex forms. Then a preliminary arrangement is carried out. The first row is laid out from a long corner along a solid wall.

The plywood sheets, if necessary, are adjusted, the points of drilling targets for hardware with an indentation from the edge - 2-3 cm and the interval between the mounting 15-30 cm between the plates, as well as between the plates and the walls, the temperature should be kept - 0.4-1 cm.

After one row of plywood is drilled, and sawdust is removed by a vacuum cleaner, the sheets are fixed by suitable fastening elements. Start twisting hardware Experienced masters recommend from the center of the plate, with gradual progress diagonally to the edges, and then around the perimeter. Such an approach will allow to straighten the Phaneur and avoid waves. Do not forget that hardware should be "recessed" in the phaneer at least 0.2 centimeters.

The second and subsequent ranks are stacked by compliance with the rules of shuttle offset by no less than 1/3 of length. If the plywood is mounted in two layers, then the joints of the first reservoir joints should not coincide with the seams of the second.

Field finish refinement

After laying, professional masters recommend "walk" on the surface of the grinding machine with an abrasive nozzle from 80 to 120 units to eliminate the slightest drops between sheets. After that, the flooring is cleared from dust and sawdust, and the seams are filled with a sealant or elastic putty on the tree.

For the seams it is undesirable to use the mounting foam, as it starts to see and crumble over time.

The floor of plywood can be mounted even without having tremendous experience, complex equipment or building education. For clarity, we recommend you to familiarize yourself with the video from professionals.

Tip! If you need repair masters, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the works that you need to perform and offers to you in the post office with prices from building brigades and firms. You can see the reviews about each of them and photos with examples of work. This is free and does not oblige anything.

As in new buildings and in houses, several dozen years ago, the task of aligning the floor to change the floor covering, be it linoleum, parquet or parquet board, laminate or other. But the modern market offers such a wide range that sometimes it is difficult to give preference to one or another building material.

The purpose of this article is to dispel all doubts and help make a weighted, sensible choice before starting repair in your own home or apartment.

Features: Pros and Cons

Of all the variety of materials suitable for these purposes, the choice is reduced to four of them:

  1. plywood;

When choosing a flooring to align the floor, you must consider the features of each.

  • DVP- Material made of compressed wood fibers pre-treated with steam. Synthetic resins or paraffin are used as a binder. The technology of production does not allow to make the Fiberboard of a large thickness, and the raw materials used (most often it is waste processing) - to achieve satisfactory strength. Of the entire list of plates of this kind, the most fragile. Moreover, if the rough surface has significant, and even more Local solid protrusions, for example, the influx of concrete or the fragment of the reinforcement, this type of material may be damaged at the markup stage.

  • CSP- stoves made of shavings in small and medium fractions associated with cement. In addition, a number of chemical additives are added to the composition to reduce the negative effect of chips on cement. At the same time, CSPs have a greater density, which means that more weight at the same area. They are rather fragile on the break, although somewhat stronger focus, while more resistant to the effects of moisture, heating, to a much lesser extent being affected by mold fungus.

  • OSB- Plate of large chips, knitted with phenolic-based resins. It is important to remember that production technology can be broken at enterprises with incomplete quality control, then the release of phenols may exceed the permissible norms.
  • Plywood - The most environmentally friendly from this list. Technically is a few glued together with a beris (less coniferous) veneer layers. It has a relatively low specific density, and in strength exceeds all other materials from this list.

Due to a number of reasons, the Faneru is much more convenient to apply for repair:

  • Saving time. In addition to the usual formats of 1.5x1.5 meters, the dimensions of 2.5x1.25 meters and 3x1.5 meters are manufactured - in one time you can get a large area.
  • Saving effort.Even large leaf can be transferred to one person.
  • Elasticity. Neighboring layers of veneer are focused perpendicularly, which ensures strength in all directions. This quality will provide higher wear resistance both when installed and when the floor is operating.

  • Elasticity. In the presence of some local irregularities of the black floor in this place, the leaf will notice without much losses, and this plot will leave the rest. Due to elasticity, the material will not crumble or crack during installation or during operation.
  • Ecology. In most cases, natural resins or adhesives are used on a natural basis, which increases environmental and consumer security.
  • Porosity.By virtue of natural natural origin, this is ensured by ventilation, which will prevent the low surface of the first surface.

The resulting brief characteristics are quite enough to make a unambiguous conclusion: the plywood floor for a number of properties is better than the floor from the OSB-plate, CSP or DVP.

What to choose?

To perform draft works there is no need to choose the highest grade. Moreover, the third grade will be used for repair (according to the current standards there is a fourth, but on the market it is almost not found) - for the purposes of the goals, this choice is optimal. Small irregularities, roughness need to be cleaned with sandpaper or cut off with a knife.

Of course, if there are explicit geometric disorders, "cooler with screw" or, as the builders say, "behaved", as well as sheets with obviously not straight corners, are not applicable.

When buying is also important to check if there was no damage during storage - on the absence of chips, fesoms, sent areas, traces of rodents, insects or mold fungus.

The quality of the sheet many repairmen determine literally on the smell - the intact material has a noble wood smell with barely noticeable adhesive notes.

Often you can hear from the sellers the designation of the classification according to the international ISO standard (and happens, and on their own quality system, right up to the "Mark of F-1 class TBS"), so you need to clarify the variety of Russian GOST, or, looking at the packaging - productity Be sure to be marked.

Perhaps part of the material will go into withdrawal, so it is better to purchase with a small margin, about 5-10%.

As for the thickness, the builders are guided by a simple rule - the thicker, the better. And indeed, a thicker substrate is able to hide larger defects. It should not overdo it, the minimum is considered to be 8 mm, recommended - from 14 to 22 mm. In any case, the substrate should not be thinner than the finish floor covering.

It is preferable to use large-size sheets, but if their transportation or laying is difficult, you can use smaller dimensions.

Some stores can offer cut to more convenient for transportation.

What to process?

In order not to reduce the quality in the future, it is enough to carry out an easy pre-processing.

This stage is a few simple operations.

  • Drying.Before repairing the repair, Faneru needs to be added to a dry warm room and to withstand at least a week (ideally - from two to three weeks). It will relieve it from excess moisture, which she could absorb during transportation and storage. Such a long period of drying is due to its structure - moisture, penetrating into the deeper layers evaporates much more slowly than from surface layers.

  • Biosoff. To avoid reproduction of the destructive microflora, it is possible to impregnate at least an outer layers with antiseptic solutions. It will eliminate tenants from the mold smell of dampness, if the water or concrete leaves the concrete, the condensate will accumulate.
  • Carrying.After antiseptic processing, withstand no less than a day. Of course, with the preservation of minimum gaps.
  • Add moisture resistanceit can be applied to one or two layers of varnish on an acrylic basis.

Preparatory stage

No less than two days before the start of work, Phaneru need to put the room where the repair will be performed. The billets must be placed horizontally, give them "sequel", remove the excess voltage in the structure caused by storage in a vertical position.

The floor should prepare: remove the old plinth, remove all the garbage, dust, knock off the nervos of concrete and cut off protruding parts of the reinforcement, soak antiseptic solution.

If the flooring is performed without lag, the surface of the concrete is necessary, if possible, align the cement-sandy solution, then apply primer and give dry. The cement-sandy solution is seized for several days, all this time highlighting excessive moisture into the environment, so the preparation is better to start in advance.

If the height differences when checking the level turned out to be great, it is necessary to perform a screed or shakes to compensate for irregularities.

If laying is carried out on top of old boards - to inspect their condition. Following or scattered areas are subject to replacement, creaking or rigging - consolidation. On the wooden basis, it is also necessary to apply primer, an antiseptic and dry.

At the next stage, you need to decompose sheets as they will later be fixed. Compensation gaps should be provided: between the elements of 3-4 mm, from the wall is 8-10 mm, this will avoid extinguishing if the temperature or humidity mode changes.

In the process of cutting, it is necessary to miss the sheets of sheets with glue to avoid their cracking in the future.

Billets are marking, while specifying the orientation of the blanks in one direction either the inscription itself or the arrow. For example, a number indicate the letter, the number is a number, that is, A1 is the first element in the first row. This will allow you to avoid confusion in the future. For convenience, you can draw the laying scheme on paper.

It is worth avoiding cases when the angles of four adjacent fragments converge at one point. In other words, lay off the billets "the rotary", as in the brickwork.

Materials and tools

The following tool will be required for laying:

  • Electric jigsaw. It is likely that it will be possible to store the floor with solid sheets, and possibly when the angle formed by the floor and the wall is not perfectly smooth, curly cutting may be required. In addition, it will be necessary to bypass the pipes of the risers in the locations of their release. For these purposes, the circular saw is suitable much less, as it allows you to do only direct cut.
  • Building level. A level of at least 2 meters long is preferred, since a tool of a smaller length will not allow to notice irregularities at large distances.
  • Roulette and pencil. After the preliminary decay, to carry out the desired marking and labeling before starting the cut.

  • Construction knife.
  • Screwdriver with a bat corresponding to the applied fastener.
  • Vacuum cleaner or broom.
  • Individual protection means: durable gloves, glasses, knee pads, if necessary - headphones (earplugs).

Of the additional materials:

  1. Self-tapping screws (self-tapping screws) - if laying on lags or old wooden floor is performed. Fasteners are selected by a simple formula - the thickness of the fixed element is multiplied by three. For example, if a sheet is 20 mm, then the length of the self-press is at least 60 mm. At the same time, the screw should not be longer than the cumulative thickness of the flooring and the wooden basis.
  2. Dowels, corresponding to self-drawing - if installing on a concrete or tie.
  3. Glue for wood (most often used ordinary PVA) or "Liquid nails".
  4. Sealer (polyisol).

Methods of installation

Depending on the state of the repaired premises, various methods of installation of rough base are applied:

  • over concrete floor (or tie);
  • over the old wooden floor;
  • on lags.

Based on this, one or another fastening technology is applied.

On old floor

Plywood laying technology on the old floor boards is pretty simple. In his own home or apartment, these works are quite set to do with your own hands. After all preparatory activities, it is necessary to spread and cut the substrate. It is important to avoid laying "Vanchil", preferring "Job" in order not to add irregularities. The joints of the seal to be copped with a wide scotch, excess trim.

Then already start by layout according to a predetermined plan, observing the label. Start from the corner, gradually expanding the "stain" in both directions.

The elements are screwed by self-tapping, retreating from the edge of at least 2 cm, and with a step between the points of attachment not more than 20 cm, having a hack.

How to sharpen on the lags?

For lag, the timber is selected from coniferous wood, cross section of at least 50x50 mm. Preference should be given to the ledged brusade without visible geometry disorders (not twisted "into the screw" and without bends along the longitudinal axis), without chipping and other mechanical damage.

To isolate the wooden elements from dampness from below, it is advisable to be pre-insulating (polyisole) before them (polyisole), covering the seams with adhesive tape.

It will be correct to start laying lags from the highest point selected by level. It is important to lay a timber to withstand uniform, 50 - 60 cm, no more.

The floor of the board is durable, environmentally friendly, resistant to abrasion. However, after a few decades, the boards begin to creak, disperse or rot from high humidity in the room. If there is a linoleum or carpet, laying a laminate or parquet to lay a laminate or parquet, then the surface will not be perfectly smooth. All defects of the rough base will be visible through the finishing finish coating, and in the case of locking systems, installation during irregularities will be impossible.

In order to make the floor with high quality and durable, you need to put the substrate under the sexual coating. For this, the sheets of plywood are suitable, which will hide all the irregularities and disadvantages of the wooden floor.

Features

To choose a fane for floor alignment, you need to understand the features and classification of the material presented in the market. Plywood varies on a variety, thickness, moisture resistance and manufacturing material.

The main characteristics will help you choose the right sheets.

4 grades of plywood, which can be distinguished visually:

  • The fourth grade with defects on the surface, rough, there are holes from the bitch, because the manufacturer is underway the lowest raw material.
  • The third variety is better than the previous one and on the surface less marriage.
  • The second grade has minor cracks, smooth.
  • The highest quality and expensive first grade is well polished, all sides without defects.

When choosing a variety is guided by price and quality. For the construction of the draft floor, the plywood of the second and third grades is suitable. According to the processing method, it is distinguished:

  • Unlockped to Fan.
  • Grinding (one or on both sides).

For mounting on the floor take unilateral polished material, laying the smooth side at the top.

The plywood canvas is made of deciduous and coniferous wood (more often from pine and birch). Wooden veneer is bonded with natural and synthetic resins. The upper layer can be treated with lacquered water repellent composition.

In resistance to moisture in residential premises, stamps distinguish:

In the bedrooms and other residential rooms with a low humidity of the FC and FC and FBA brand, made on the basis of carbamide and albuminocazinic glue. They differ in environmentality and average resistance to moisture.

The FSF brand is placed in the corridor and in the kitchen, where there is a large moisture resistance.

The thickness of the canvas determines the number of veneer layers. Their odd number is placed perpendicular to the previous one, creating a durable building material. For the flooring of rough floors, they take Phaneur with a thickness of 10 mm and above.

Plywood is well fastened with self-drawing, it does not crumble and does not crack.

An analogue of plywood on the construction market is an OSB - a fitting stove. Such materials possess similar properties, and differ only in production. For plywood, the raw material is the wood veneer, and wood chips are treated with natural resins for OSB.

OSB is divided into different categories:

  • The first is suitable with minimal load and dryness.
  • The second is produced for affordable residential premises.
  • The third is characterized by high moisture resistance and durability.
  • Fourth - used in the construction of walls.
  • Lacked or laminated - covered with a protective layer of varnish or laminate.
  • Plotted - on the junctions has a connecting groove.

The best solutions for the draft floor will be the OSB 3, tipped and convenient in the installation. Such sheets are produced with a thickness of 0.5 cm to 4 cm.

Pros and cons

When it is difficult to decide which substrate is better: plywood or stroke, you need to consider the advantages and disadvantages of each material. Plywood coating posses such advantages:

  • Withstand heavy loads.
  • Small weight.
  • It is flexible, has high bending strength and deformations.
  • There is no extraneous chemical smell.
  • High leveling abilities.
  • Easy to handle, saw.
  • Easy to use.
  • Smooth beautiful outdoor surface.
  • Holds heat indoors.

Pros of the use of oriented chipboard:

  • Available at a price.
  • Do not settle.
  • Surface without defects.
  • Diverse sizes.
  • Light panels.
  • Resistant to the effects of harmful insects.

But all the wood materials have a general drawback - moisture has a great influence on them. Humidity will quickly destroy wood raw materials, so it is better to reduce moisture-resistant coating stamps. Reverse negative side of moisture resistant panels - environmental friendliness. They allocate formaldehyde, harmful to health, but it is he who helps to fight humidity.

Both equalizing material have a high degree of fire from open fire, so before you make the material, you need to take care of increasing flame retardant properties.

If laying the flooring to lags, it disappears up to 10 cm in the height of the room. This is not always acceptable in certain situations. To lay sheets, it is necessary to make a clear calculation so that there is no waste and unnecessary working on the alteration. Bashed these materials are recommended using self-samples with a middle step at 20 cm.

Such sheets are well transferred fasteners and is tightly attracted.

Differences in price between plywood and OSB of one brand are not the most significant, but the OSB is cheaper. In suitable and unpretentious conditions, the OSB plates can be elevated, but a plywood is suitable for a durable wear-resistant coating.

Materials and tools

Plywood and OSP are similar to laying technology. To store the floor with wood sheets, use the same mounting tools. Machines for fastening are as well as the same. In order to quickly and qualitatively implement the flooring of plywood sheets on the draft board, you need to stock basic building devices. In the paper it will take:

  • Level for measuring floor leveling.
  • Screwdriver or screwdriver for screwing screws.
  • Drill for drilling holes under a dowel.
  • Roulette for measuring the required length.
  • Lobzik or hacksaw for sawing plywood sheets for the desired dimensions.
  • Grinding nozzle on a drill or grinding machine for grinding joints between sheets.
  • Roller or painting brush for applying primer.
  • Broom or vacuum cleaner for garbage cleaning.
  • Spatula for glue.
  • Hammer to feed nails.

To increase the moisture-proof and flame retardant properties of the material, it is advisable to use special antipit compositions and primers.

Putting the Phaneur or PSAM better on the water-dispersion adhesive bustylate, PVA. These brands are suitable for gluing wood surfaces. They are safe for health, do not smell and dry during the day. The glue is easily applied with a spatula or brush (depending on the consistency).

Carnate plywood sheets can be on a screw and nails. If the laying of materials is carried out in the apartment, preferably the use of dowels with dowels, since work with a drill and a screwdriver is easier and quieter than a hammer with nails.

Preparatory work

Before installing plywood on the wooden floor, they produce basic preparatory work. First spend an estimate of the original draft wooden base. Visually assess the condition of the genital boards, the presence of poorly fitted and squeaky flooring.

Check on the construction level of the differences and irregularities of the surface.

Then make disassembly of plinths. All discharged boards need to be additionally secured by nails or screws to the lower beam. Hinders affected by fungus are replaced or cleaned, impregnate with anti-grapple composition. Deformed and damaged boards need to be changed. The protrusions on the surface are shuned by the plane and are stitched. Gaps and cracks are filled with sealant or glue.

After repair, cleaning garbage, sawdust and dust using a broom or vacuum cleaner. Raw boardy floor is treated with an antiseptic agent. Roller material can be used as the insulation of noise and insulation under the paneny floor.

For the substrate fits the penplex or isolon of a small thickness. Connect the lanes of the substrate among themselves with a construction tape.

Fastening plywood occurs after drying to avoid deformation. For this, the material is entered into the room and leave for 2-4 days. The optimal solution for protection against humidity and fire will be the processing of both sides of the panel with primer composition or acrylic varnish. The technology of laying wood sheets requires an indentation from the wall in the amount of 1-1.5 cm between sheets up to 0.5 cm.

This must be taken into account when stripping and laying plywood blanks to the floor.

To remove the voltage from the material during operation and the convenience of laying the sheet, the sheet is cut into 4 parts using an electric bike. Pre-produce accommodation and fitting of all parts, draw a location scheme and numerate the blanks. Stop sheets need to be displaced to reduce the number of joints and avoid crossing.

If you comply with all the rules when laying plywood, it will serve as a qualitative, durable basis for any floor covering. The finishing decorative material can be rebuilt, and the plywood base will remain the same.

Methods of alignment

The level of leveling depends on the smooth of the rough floor. The differences in a height of more than 1.5 cm suggest fannel flooring on lagas. Minor irregularities closed plywood directly on the wooden floor.

Plaques with a drop of less than 1 cm are aligned with supports in the right places. The support is used thin squares, wood bars or plywood.

Laying plywood on the floor can be made using a substrate or without it. The lining roll rolls over the entire surface and fastens with scotch. The plywood material is spread from above in accordance with the scheme, evenness is checked and fixed with self-draws. In this case, sheets are needed from 1 cm thick.

Without using a padding material used adhesive fastening method. A small area of \u200b\u200bthe room is coated with 2-3 mm glue, ranging from the angle. The sheet of plywood blank is superimposed on top and tightly pressed. Additionally, you can fasten several screws for better fixation. This method is the installation of the remaining part of the room.

Laying birch plywood does not require special skills and can be carried out with their own hands.

When a sheet of plywood does not lies exactly, begging, there are small discrepancies in height with other workpieces, supports are used. The reference points are placed in poorly adjacent places and are fixed by self-drawing.

If the WHP is on a wooden base, the dismantling is made if the old material, swollen from moisture, crumbs and gets into the edges. Fiberboard is not recommended to retain on the floor, as the sheets are spoiled from humidity and have bad leveling properties due to low thickness.

To level significant differences in height, lags are used. The boards of the required length are used as a lag with a cross section of 3-5 cm by 7-10 cm or coniferous plywood rails as size. The location of the lag depends on the thickness of plywood and loads during operation. The small thickness requires a smaller distance between the lags, ranging from 40 cm. You should not use sheets less than 1.5 cm in height. Installation of the lag is designed in accordance with the layout of plywood in the room so that the joints are laid on the middle of the bar.

The horizontal installation of the lag is measured by a water or laser level. The accuracy of the installation depends the fatality of the entire floor. Lags are attached to glue and screw the screws. Between them perpendicularly place the bars, receiving a reliable crate to which plywood blanks are added.

Often during the repair, the dismantling of the old wooden coating is inappropriate, but it is necessary to align the surface for further work. In this case, experts advise just to sash plywood sheets, thereby creating the necessary "platform".

Laying plywood on wooden floor

Pressed sheets are excellent material for draft and primary work. They are inexpensive, easily transported, easy to install and well eliminate small floor level drops. Often it is to lay a linoleum, a parquet board or laminate, as it possesses the following advantages:

  • laying of sheets significantly reduces the time of preparatory work before installing the final finishing floor covering;
  • prevents the bottom side of the floor coatings, due to good ventilation between the material and the concrete tie;
  • the floor lined with plywood prevents premature wear or deformation of linoleum or carpet, prolonging the service life of the decorative coating;
  • provides a smooth draft floor;
  • lung plywood sheets, solid, durable, resistant to loads and abrasion;
  • plywood is quite flexible and does not break when installed;
  • does not have a sharp smell;
  • possesses good sound and thermal insulation properties;
  • due to the large size of the sheets, the number of joints is minimal;
  • qualitatively executed factory grinding prevents sheet slide and materials placed on it.

Popular views of plywood used for repair

The sheets manufactured by the industry are classified on various features:

  • used wood;
  • the presence and method of impregnation;
  • grade;
  • number of layers;
  • surface treatment;
  • moisture resistance.

For repair work, when the part of the structure made from plywood will be hidden from the eye, it is recommended to use moisture-resistant Faneer II or III variety. The sheet must necessarily be at least 10 mm thick, but the recommended value is 14-22 mm. Thinner will not cope with the load, and too fat is inconvenient in operation.

The number of layers does not have a fundamental value. If possible, the sheets polished on both sides should be purchased.

    1. If there is an opportunity, before starting work, Faneur needs to dry within 2-3 weeks. Sheets are dried vertically, at a temperature of slightly above room.
    2. It will be useful after the end of the drying process to handle the phaneer with an antiseptic and to ventilate.

48 hours before the start of work, the material must be put into the room where it will be installed, and put horizontally. There are two ways to lay plywood.

Method 1. Installation on the old wooden coating

When laying plywood on the wooden floor, there are many options for fixing sheets:

  • on self-tapping screw;
  • on glue;
  • on liquid nails.

Among the adhesives, water-based adhesive, two-component composition, mounted glue and bustylate are isolated. However, preferably mounting on the self-tapping screw.

Materials and tools

For successful installation of plywood sheets, the following tools and materials will be required:

  • plywood sheets;
  • electrolovik;
  • level;
  • roulette;
  • marker;
  • self-tapping screw;
  • screwdriver;
  • substrate;
  • building vacuum cleaner or broom.

You may also need a grinding machine, roller and primer, glue and sealing.

Preliminary preparation and primer

Installation of plywoods on wooden floors is produced only if the height difference when checking the level is not more than 1 cm. In this case, it will take another compensating irregularity of the substrate and the scotch that you need to cry the stakes of the material.

Insert the state of the floors. Surripant and discharged floorings strengthen, rotten and replaced - replace. Do not attempt to renovate boards with mold trails, damage caused by rodent attack. They must be removed, to ventilate the room.

Get off the floors with a broom dust and dirt. If desired, twice pass the primer for wooden surfaces for the best adhesion of materials. And dried the basis for at least 16 hours.

Marking and cutting

Plywood sheets are cut so that the amount of joints is minimal, taking into account the damper seams of 3-4 mm between sheets and 8-10 mm between plywood and wall. This will help to avoid theft of sheets, because during operation, under the influence of microclimate and oscillations of the temperature modes of the workpiece, several millimeters will increase over the area.

Cutting is made by an electroltrol bike, while the ends of the billets are carefully examined onto the subject of the bundle and are stitched. On large areas for easy installation, Phaneur can be cut with squares 50x50 or 60x60 cm. This reception will help more accurately align the surface and eliminate possible installation defects.

The sawn sheets are numbered, and similar to their numbers on a wooden base there is a schematic layout of blanks.

Laying plywood

Installation of blanks has several features.

  1. If necessary, a substrate is put on the old wooden coating, the strips are sampled with a scotch.
  2. Holes under the self-tapping screws are drilled in advance, and then a slightly larger diameter with a drill.
  3. Self-tapping caps are settled in plywood sheets.
  4. Laying plywood begins with niches, podiums, protrusions. Next, the sheets are located from the middle to the edges with the brick shift of the squares relative to each other.
  5. The gaps and gaps in the old floor covering can be poured with glue, give dry and open.

At the end of the installation, check the quality of the coating, remembering that the perfect gap between the level and plywood is 2 mm, the maximum is 4 mm.

Method 2. Installation of plywood on lags

A more complex and time-consuming method of laying plywood material on beacons is justified if the height difference is more than 1 cm. Lags can be installed on the old wooden floor, only if you are sure that everything is in order

Preparatory stage

The old flooring should be calculated from dust and debris, paying sufficient attention to the slits between the floorboards. The largest cracks can be pouring with silicone sealant or mounting glue.

At this time, Fauer should be prepared - the material must be cutting, to make markup on a piece of paper and numb the squares, given that they will be laid out by the "brick".

Installation of lags and plywood sheets

According to the drawing, the installation of plywood squares should be installed. The mount can be carried out with liquid nails or self-drawing, in the latter case the screws of the screws need to be warm well. Holes can be pre-scheduled and referred.

Final treatment

Upon completion of laying materials of the joints of plywood sheets, it should be treated with fine-grained emery paper, it will smooth all the irregularities and differences of neighboring sheets. After grinding, the entire surface must be covered with several layers of varnish.

  1. If a laminate or parquet board is mounted on the fane from above, then the plywood thickness should not be less than the finish coating.
  2. Try to prevent cases that 4 plywood sheets come into contact at once.
  3. The width of the lag should be 0.5 m from the square side.
  4. Plywood cannot be used in high humidity premises, even if it is a moisture-resistant material brand.
  5. If the work is used in the work of a non-fatty plywood, then a prerequisite for the next stage of work will be the layer of waterproofing layer.
  6. The length of the self-press should be at least 2.5-3 times more plywood thickness.
  7. When laying plywood on lags, the base after the sealing of trees between the boards can be projected and put the layer of heat and waterproofing, and only then mounted guides.

It is important to remember that the defective sheets of plywood in the work cannot be used, even if they are supposed to further cover with decorative materials.

Video - laying plywood on wooden floor

Video - how to put a plywood on a wooden floor

Plywood floor is a very comfortable draft floor in any residential room. It is quite durable, not deformed, such a floor will serve you for a long time and reliably. It, of course, can also be used in the form of a final flooring, because a well-stirred, carefully polished and stacked plywood looks very noble. But still, more often, Phanera is used as a base for a parquet board, laminate, linoleum. Laying plywood on the wooden floor is especially popular in cottages and private houses. This is due to the fact that due to the plywood base, it is held in the room by 20% more heat. In addition, in case you decide for a while, decide to replace the old floor covering, it will be possible to remove it without much effort. You will not need to do something with the available plywood basis. You can simply want to the new coating on it.

Methods of laying plywood

Plywood sheets are laid on a cement base, lags or wooden floors.

Placeing the Phaneur on the cement base, it is important to either follow its horizontal and evenness, or use adjustment racks. This is the most common way to lay plywood on the floor. As a rule, such floors can withstand pressure up to 3 tons per square. meter.

The most time-consuming and most expensive option to lay plywood is to fasten it to lags. It is important to set lags so that their upper faces are in one horizontal plane. Next, the floor of the plywood is laid on them so that the joints of the sheets fall into lags. Between the lags, some engineering communications can be hidden, as well as put a layer of noise insulation or insulation. It is important to know that with a single-layer flooring of plywood on the floor, its thickness should be at least 15 mm, and with a two-layer - at least 9 mm in one layer.

The only minus styling on lags is that for premises with low ceiling, this method is not very suitable, because it takes up to 9 cm height.

Laying plywood on the wooden floor: the main rules

Laying plywood on the wooden floor becomes especially relevant when the boarded floors fumbled, loosened and became unusable. Plywood will allow you to repair the most optimal way - quickly, inexpensively and securely.

  • First of all, it should be checked if wooden floors of lags be worse (of course if they are). If you bend, you will have to fully disassemble the floor covering and repair the base of the wooden floor. If the case is not in lags, then the best way out of the position will be found plywood on the wooden floor.
  • Remember that Paneur is not recommended to use where there are too large temperature differences and increased humidity. For bathrooms and unheated premises of plywood does not fit. To check if the humidity is not elevated with your floor, put a sheet of polyethylene with a size of 1x1 meters tightly and leave for three days. If condensate will appear on the inside of polyethylene - the floor is suitable for further use.
  • Plywood sheets are stacked with displacement in such a way that at one point there are a maximum of three sutures. So separate sheets are customized under the size of the room, they bypass the protrusions and fill the niches. Conducting this procedure, remember that there should be a width of about 8-10 mm between the scattered sheets - these are the so-called damper seams. It is important to know: between extreme squares of plywood and walls must be a gap of 15-20 mm. Do not worry that it will spoil the general view, after all, later these indents will be covered by plinths.
  • In order for the final assembly to confuse the fitted sheets, it is worth numbered and, focusing on the numbers, make a small plan scheme of their location.
  • Choosing a plywood, consider that the thickness of the plywood sheet should be at least 12 mm, and even better - 15 mm. On perfectly smooth surfaces, the use of sheets with a thickness of 8-10 mm is allowed. If you are planning, then the plywood is less than 15 mm thick you will not fit.
  • Plywood sheets are recommended to cut into squares of 60 cm. So you have the optimal number of damper seams. In addition, it is so easier to detect bundles that are not visible in entire sheets.
  • Before finally, to put the plywood, it should be very carefully cleansed by the base from dust and garbage. In addition, it is recommended to implement the integrity - this is the processing of the floor with a special primer.
  • It is better to put the Phaneur on the glue, but it is quite possible to do without it. According to numerology, each leaf is stacked in its place and is attached to self-edges at the edges and diagonals with a step of 15-20 cm. Make an indent from the edges - 2 cm. It is necessary to draw the hats of self-tapping screws, Zenkuya at the same time the holes under fasteners.
  • It is important to know that the fasteners must exceed the thickness of the sheet in length at least 3 times. For example, for a sheet of 12 mm, a self-tapping screw is 40 mm.
  • After laying need carefully