Homemade furniture shield. Production of a round shield of the Viking era. Technological process of manufacturing carpentry
Quite often, the furniture shield is required - this wood material used to produce furniture or decorating elements is usually glued from a set of rectangular blanks, and these billets are glued to the ends so that the shield is a flat area. Bottles assembly options are very much - it is a simple face gluing and an assembly on various waders and a swallow tail. This article discusses the manufacture of not a completely ordinary shield, rather, about its further processing.
Tool and Material for Assembling Furniture Shield
To work, we will need the following set of tools:
- Bulgarian with a saw disk and a device for a slit of grooves;
- Grinding (ribbon or eccentric);
- Face saw;
- Hand tool: clamps, plans, pencil, etc.
Material
- Wood array (for example, pine);
- Carpentry glue.
Shield manufacturing technology
We divide our entire work into two main stages:
- Assembling shield
- Shield processing.
Assembling shield
In fact, at this stage, everything is rather standard and here, probably, there is nothing particularly fundamentally new, but, nevertheless, we run through the standard technology even time.
1. Flavy the array on the workpiece
Standard and simplest procedure - we dissolve on the billets of the required size.
2. Align the height of the billet
We skip our billets through to align their height and make macmatically precisely precisely parallelism of surfaces.
3. Stringing ends
4. Skip marking
5. Speed \u200b\u200bgrooves under the spikes
6. Shileing shield
And, as always, you need to very well pull all our design with clamps to provide minimal gaps and a dense fit of the gluing planes. It is also important to draw attention to the fact that at the time of fixing the shield did not learn, and he did not cross the arc. To do this, fix it with a multitude of clamps in different planes.
Giving relief shield
1. Primary shield processing
2. Preparation of Circular
And now the most interesting begins - we wake a cut on across. To do this, you need to make parallel (even perpendicular!) Emphasis, which will do not along the saw disk, and across. Since the standard configurations, such an element, of course, is not provided, respectively, we will make it yourself from a simple board, pressed by clamps to the pyline table.
4. Making the relief of the shield
Now it is gradually necessary to start rapidly to rapid part of the board, moving the workpiece across the saw disk. With each time, increasing the departure of the saw dick, accordingly, the volume of removable wood will increase, forming relief. This operation must be carried out consistently with each side of the workpiece so that there is a uniform removal of volumes. Below we give some photos from different angles so that it is completely all clear.
Treatment of the surface of the shield
Then cover the surface with the chemical composition - it may be varnishes (glossy or matte), impregnation, caloring vehicles, etc. - the choice of impregnating composition is the topic of a separate article.
Relief furniture shield is ready.
Video
Below you enclose the video for which this material was made.
The furniture shield is a specific type of wood materials, created by gluing standard planed wooden bars. It is effectively used to create various types of fittings and coatings. Make a furniture shield with your own hands at home is quite simple, so this work is available for self-fulfillment to each person. The resulting structures are natural and environmental clean, and at the same time much more attractive than chipboard or MDF.
Creating a furniture shield with your own hands at home involves the use of different types of wood. It is most often used for this birch or oak, beech or aspen, as well as larch and different coniferous rocks.
Each breed of wood has its own characteristics, therefore, before a certain choice, it is recommended to determine in advance in what conditions the resulting contract will be applied.
Most often, furniture shields are used to create different furniture and doors. They are distinguished by the presence of a specific internal voltage, so in the process of work it is necessary to be neat so as not to disturb the integrity of the structure. Wrong work can lead to deformation of the finished product.
The main advantages of furniture shields are:
- environmental purity due to the use of natural components and high-quality glue;
- exquisite appearance of the obtained furniture and other structures, but it is possible only with competent processing of shields;
- high practicality, as wood has a homogeneous structure, which allows you to restore the elements broken or lost attractiveness;
- making a furniture shield is an incredibly simple occupation, and at the same time a small amount of money is spent on this process;
- furniture made of shields is durable and attractive;
- products do not have any cracks or other deformations, and are also not exposed to a substantial shrinkage.
The main factor in obtaining a high-quality shield is a competent selection of material for these purposes. Standard furniture shields have a 2 cm thick, so initially prepared the blanks of the optimal size, as well as possessing the desired thickness. Since certainly the boards will have to strict, and after grinding, it should be purchased with a reserve, therefore their thickness should be 2.5 cm.
In the process of selecting material, it is necessary to navigate the wood, as well as on the quality of the boards. It is not allowed so that the wood is uneven or vigorous. It should be high-quality, correctly dried and with the complete lack of any rotary sites. Therefore, before purchasing, the boards should carefully examine. Additionally, the accompanying documentation for the material is studied in detail.
Required tools
The gluing of the furniture shield is made with their own hands using standard tools. Usually they are available from each man who preferring numerous work on the house on their own. Therefore, only elements are prepared:
- a planing machine that provides optimal wood preparation;
- tool for connecting and gluing individual wooden bars;
- grinding machine of a belt type;
- construction level, allowing to get really smooth shields;
- coarse sandpaper;
- flat grinding machine.
These tools will be enough for the manufacture of seats, so no expensive devices will not need anymore.
Production rules
Once the tools are fully prepared for the planned work, the direct production procedure begins. How to make a furniture shield? This process is not considered too complicated, but in order to exclude possible errors or problems, it is recommended to study the correct instruction in advance. For this, sequential steps are performed:
- original wooden boards are cut into separate bars with the desired size, and it is important to make sections in such a way that they are strictly at right angles;
- it is not allowed to have any irregularities or other defects, since in this case it will not work correctly glue the furniture shield;
- if minor skews are detected, they can be eliminated by a conventional planer;
- an important point in production is the combination of the billets obtained, as they should be the same in texture and color, as well as on other important parameters;
- after a selection of elements, they are noted that in the process of gluing it has not arisen with their correct location.
So that all the stages of the process were made taking into account the main nuances, it is recommended to view the learning video in advance.
Making Brucki
Processing machine
We celebrate each barrier
Element gluing technology
After all the bars made will be prepared, you can proceed to directly gluing, which will ensure a high-quality shield. This procedure is also divided into sequential steps:
- the device is selected, which gives the ability to glue the bars, and it should be even, and usually a regular chipboard is used for this;
- at the edges of the sheet, the slats are fixed, and their height depends on the parameters of the prepared bars;
- between these plars are laid out of the bars, and they should fit tightly to each other and should form an attractive drawing of them;
- if there are gaps, they are easily eliminated by the standard Fugansky;
- next, the bars glue, for which various types of glue are used, designed for wood, but the use of PVA glue is optimal;
- glue flares completely all surface consisting of bars, and it is important that the tool is evenly distributed over the surface;
- the lubricated elements are tightly pressed to each other;
- the planks are fixed to the List of the chipboard, two more such sheets are stacked, after which these elements are connected by self-drawing, and this is necessary to prevent the disintegration of the obtained shield;
- the resulting billet is left for about an hour, after which the shield is released and left for a day.
Thus, having understood how to glue the elements to obtain a furniture shield, this process will not require significant effort. The procedure is easily implemented by its own forces, and as a result, structures are obtained effectively used to create numerous furniture, doors or even full-fledged coatings that differ not only for high strength, but also reliability, as well as an attractive appearance.
Fix the planks
Laying up bars
Put two more planks
Leave dry
Finishing processing
Shields do so that they are not only durable and durable, but also quite attractive. For this, attention is paid to some finishing stages consisting in special processing. For this, actions are performed:
- the preliminary grinding procedure is carried out. For these purposes, it is recommended to use the standard belt grinding machine. It is necessary to insert a special emery paper, and it should have large fractions, as the initial processing is made. It allows you to eliminate large defects and drops that remain on the surface after the creation of the shield. It is necessary to act neatly, as well as the process is performed by consistent and smooth lines;
- secondary processing - involves the use of a flat grinding machine. It provides the removal of the slightest drops, irregularities and other defects existing on the surface of a wooden furniture shield. Also, at the expense of this process is removed from the surface of the pile. It is recommended to pre-mix the base with a small amount of water, and the grinding should be started only after the complete drying of the structure.
After competently implemented processing, it is possible to use the obtained shields to create a variety of tables or shelves, bedside tables and other furniture. It is allowed to apply them to form doors or coatings with high strength, reliability and durability.
Beginner Masters for the manufacture of furniture sometimes face a problem - where to purchase a furniture shield. Factory samples are not always suitable for the conceived design, but the workpiece can be made independently.
For the manufacture of shields, you will need special equipment: planing machine, grinding machines (tape and flat octiculipal). Board for work Choose one breed, without bitch, dried, with minimal charge. Best option - buy log and saw it on the workpiece of the required size. The corner of the cut is 90 degrees. Pine, oak, birch are suitable for making shields.
Wooden shields are very practical - they are not deformed, have a minor shrinkage, the structure of the tree does not damage, so the invested funds in the production of sawn timber pay off.
Nowadays, furniture made by their own hands from natural and environmentally friendly fittings is enjoying great demand. To obtain such fittings, a furniture shield is often used. It is much more beautiful and more practical than analogues, such as MDF and chipboard, and has a number of a number of advantages over them.
Newbies in the manufacture of furniture often do not know where to buy the furniture shield that suits them. Samples sold in the store are not always suitable for the planned design. But experienced masters always have wooden boards at hand. With their help, you can easily create a furniture shield yourself, if you know the manufacturing technology.
For this you will need glue, many tools and knowledge of step-by-step instructions.
What to glue the wooden boards in the shield
To correct glue furniture shieldTo begin with, it is worth getting a special equipment:
- Planer;
- Circular Saw;
- A hammer;
- Flight to apply marking lines;
- Long line, roulette and pencil;
- Clamps or homemade tools for tightening boards;
- Plane oxyl fluid and ribbon machine for stripping a tree. Instead, you can use the sandpaper by told the tree to the block, but it will take more time to sweep;
- Electric choke;
- Wooden boards.
- Glue.
For successful gluing boards, it is important to choose quality and reliable glue:
- ISOFIX G818. Professional adhesive for wood made on the basis of polyvinyl acetate. It does not contain solvents, differs by high moisture resistance and powerful fixation, is used for internal and external work, gluing any tree breeds. It becomes transparent after drying. The cost of goods: 232 rubles for packaging with a volume of 500 ml.
- Joiner or moment super pva. Heat-resistant, quick-breaking and high-strength glue, designed to glue all wood species, chipboard, MTF, DVM, veneer, plywood, accessories and laminate. After drying, it becomes transparent. Cost: 330 rubles per packaging with a volume of 750 ml.
Instructions - how to glue a shield without clamps and whim
As soon as you prepare all equipment, tools and suitable glue, proceed to gluing the shield. This process consists of several stages.
Preparation of boards
Wood for cooking shields need to pick up one breed.
Tree types, which are used for the manufacture of furniture shields:
- Birch;
- Pine;
- Clear;
- Larch;
- Aspen.
Wood should be dry, smooth and without bitch. It is best to buy a finished timber and cut it at a right angle on the workpiece of the desired size. If there are irregularities on the bars, use the rigging machine.
The thickness of the boards should be several millimeters more than the final panel parameters, since after gluing and drying them will need to be modulated with grinding. To do this, pick up the workpiece with the width ratio to the thickness as 3: 1. The boards should be no wider than 15 centimeters so that when drying it does not arise excessive stresses.
Preparation for gluing
Before connecting all the boards, they need to pre-fit so that it turns out a beautiful shield:
- Build a flat surface to make it convenient to glue the shield from the boards. To do this, it is best to use chipboard sheet;
- To two edges of chipboard, attach the planks, adjust their height in accordance with the height of the blanks;
- Lay out the boards between the planks so that they are faced tightly to each other. If there are cracks, remove them with Fugansky. Thoroughly inspect the structure of the tree of each sample. The lines of neighboring blanks should be smoothly combined and then the shield will be beautiful. To fit the lines, displace the boards in length;
- After placing the blanks on the chipboard sheet, rode them or mark the figures to then quickly assemble the shield back.
Gluing process
As soon as you pick up the boards, alternately glue them with each other.
- The glued surface is completely extinguished by glue. It is important not to apply an excessive amount of glue, otherwise it will close the seams. But do not neglect glue - its lack will negatively affect the strength of the shield;
- Lubricated boards firmly press one to one;
- To two plars, located on both sides of the chipboard, perpendicular to attach two more planks and secure them with self-draws. This will avoid bending the furniture shield when gluing;
- To increase bruck gluing, use wedges. Press the boards until the first drops of glue appear on their surface;
- Give the shield to seek about an hour. Then remove it from the surface of the chipboard. Do not touch the material more day.
VIDEO INSTRUCTION
Final stage
As soon as the homemade furniture shield will dry, wood must be pulled, tighten and remove traces of glue.
This will allow you to get a smooth and smooth surface:
- Place a large-grained sandpaper for pre-grinding into the grinding machine;
- Then handle the surface of the shield with a plane grinding machine;
- If you notice a pile, you can get rid of it with a small amount of water. Pour it on the surface of the furniture shield and wait until it dry. After that, the villi will rise, and they can be easily removed by grinding equipment.
Following these instructions, you will create a high-quality furniture shield that will be a great basis for the facilities of the bedside tables, tables, shelves and many other items for your home.
Successful occupied people should have a hobby. It removes stress and reduces the danger of heart attack. You can collectific candy and coins, and you can take a serious craft. For example, glue the furniture shield with your own hands. The process is not as complicated, as it may seem, however, it requires at least minimal tool.
Tools and Materials for Making Furniture Shield
- Circular Saw.
- Milling machine.
- Drill.
- A hammer.
- Electrolake.
- Ribbon and plane grinding machines. You can clean the tree with the sandpaper by skitting, told it to the block. True, it will be a little longer.
- Pleismus.
- Clamps or homemade devices for tightening boards.
- Long metal ruler, pencil, roulette.
- Lumber.
- Plywood and thin slats for splitting the shield.
- Glue.
Preparatory work
First, we define the size of the furniture shield we need to stock with enough material. Billets in any case should be longer and thicker than the final panel parameters. The boards are chosen from the tree of one breed, dry and smooth, with a minimum of bitch. It is also necessary to know the basic properties of wood. We offer a small stolar dictionary, so as not to be confused in the concepts:
- Plasti - wide longitudinal side of the boards.
- Delica - separate bars, planks, drunk from a wide board.
- Lamella - whole, unstressed blanks. In fact, the same thing as the deli.
- Swearing is the erratic location of wood fibers in the workpiece. It is found when the board is filled from Komlya Tree.
- Swamp - Outer layer of wood, located immediately under the crust.
According to the advice of old masters, how to make a furniture shield of good quality, perforidies are taken, having a width ratio to thickness, like 3x1. Such a lamella is stable, since the inner voltage of the wood is missing to split the rail. We all saw the boards cracked from the end. This is the very case when the voltage of the material caused by the wrong drying splits the workpiece. So, first we dissolve the sawn timber on the rail of no more than 15 cm. In the process of cutting, at the same time, we remove all the defective areas of the boards.
Before assembling the shield, we take into account that wood when the dryer is brewed in different directions. The strongest is in the direction of the annual rings (tangential direction), two times weaker - in the direction of the core lines (radial direction). Food blanks glue in the order indicated on the first photo:
Shields A and B: The core is sprinkled with the core, the swamp with Zabol. This will avoid blocking when the shield is dried, which reduces the strength of adhesive connections.
Shields C and D: billets with pronounced switches orient on the lines of annual rings, then the deformation of the finished shield will be much smaller.
Step-by-step instructions for the manufacture of furniture shield
Methods for connecting plots in shield
How to make a furniture shield with your own hands so that in the future wood retained initial stability? Credit with a shield warping caused by a lumber's swovel, you can be several ways.
We glue the lamella on the keys (bottom shield in photo 6) or we use the final tips, following the example of the drawing board. To fix the short-lived boards, we use a tip with a groove knot (upper shield in the photo), connected to the slats flush. The tip may have a protrusion above one (miditioner) or both layers, depending on the purpose of the product.
If the furniture shield is scheduled to be used under conditions of constant fluctuations in humidity, it will be more expedient to glue the boards. Wood compensation with frequent swelling is achieved by various ways to raptify the plots. The top shield in photo 7 is connected to a quarter, medium - a quarter with the removal of the chamfer from the upper edges. The boards of the lower shield are also cooled in a quarter, but already with a selection of profile edges on the front side.
Another type of interfacing of the defense without the use of glue is the use of mastered planks. The top shield in the photo 8 is pulled by the usual rail, the middle-profiled bar without grooves, the bottom - profiled bar with the grooves.
If the furniture shield is operated with a constant mechanical load, under conditions of high humidity and temperature drop, then the boards must have a more powerful pairing. Photo 9 shows examples of such compounds. The upper shield is assembled on the sewage, medium - on the plywood rail. The rail width should be equal to the thickness of the plot, the rack thickness is one third of the thickness of the defense.
On the example of the lower shield, the connection is shown to the spool used during flooring or cladding partitions. All these methods can be used in the manufacture of collapsible shields (for example, for sliding furniture). Glue in the specified connections does not apply.
Bonding lamellas on the sewers requires the perfect accuracy of the location of the holes, otherwise the geometry of the shield will be broken. Marking nests are made by markers. Drill ends are best using a drilling rack and stop. The depth of both holes in the amount should exceed the length of the fastening element by 2-3 mm.
If there is no milling machine, the grooves and profiles on the ends are removed using a drill fixed on the rack. An appropriate milling is installed on the tool and include high revs.
The assembled, dried and ground shield is flowing to the desired size. Now you can go to work - make furniture, doors, window sills, sow walls and ceilings. Strength, aesthetics, naturalness of furniture shields are the best recommendations for building material.
Home / Woodworking / Wood Bonding
Bonding of wood and wood materials
Wood gluing is a common way to connect wood and wood materials (plywood, wooden panels, etc.) with adhesives.
How to make a kitchen made of furniture boards with their own hands
This allows you to get products or models of various shapes and sizes, increase their strength and stability, as well as increase the use of blanks from short and low quality wood.
There are the following types of type: binder doskovyh or a square of a piece of wood layers on blocks and edges of sheets, sticking the frame panels, gluing the placement along the edges of the plates or frame, the splice of the workpiece are wood or gear gluing, bonding the corner tip, and other compounds in the product and the composition of the product and Structures, facing of wood surfaces and wood materials with decorative materials made of thin sheet metal.
Binding as an independent way to connect with additional fasteners, screws, screws, nails.
Adhesion is that the wood fluid is maintained on the adhesive layer penetrates in its extracellular and intracellular space, cured (coming from a liquid state into a solid state) and thus holds the docking surface of the adhesive layer.
The gluing process consists of ways to select and prepare adhesive materials; selection, preparation and use of adhesives on glue surfaces; package design; compress and hold down the packages under pressure until the glue becomes solid; Technological aging of glued products and structures.
High quality dry (humidity 12 ± 3%) The first and second class wood is used to produce glued products and structures.
Allowed to use lumber. It is better to glue less dense wood (pine, spruce, alder, trill), worse - fat (oak, autumn, maple, beech, birch).
Drainage of sawn timber is carried out in the drying chambers. First, it is recommended to carry out atmospheric (natural) drying of wood in the air-dry wood condition (18-22% humidity), then the chamber (artificial) to the necessary humidity.
The surface of the coniferous wood can be demineralized by resin solvents (turpentine, acetone, gasoline, etc.).
They are expensive, flammable and toxic. To remove wood used for coating, use 4-5% aqueous sodium hydroxide solution or a 5-10% sodium salt solution. The solutions are heated to 50 ° C and applied to the surface with brushes or brushes. They form soluble soaps with a resin, which are then easily washed with warm water or 2-3% sodium solution.
Glued billets should be processed by the design or grinding their side surfaces in accordance with the technical requirements.
Thickness (thickness difference) of plugs in layers in blocks is ± 0.3 mm. Handicraft details should not be noticeably bloated, and their adhesive surfaces should be smooth and smooth, free of spots of resin, oil, paint, dust and other pollutants.
To glue the wood of various purposes and the conditions of operation of various products and structural strength, water resistance and adhesion strength, various liquid glue are used: Casein Karbamidofor - formaldehyde, phenol formaldehyde and other rezortsinoformaldegidnye.
Casein glue is used in the form of an aqueous solution (without heating) with a concentration of 40-50%.
This is harmless, solid wood glue, has an average water resistance, but not enough spongy to cause wood darkening.
Synthetic thermosetting (irreversible) water-soluble urea formaldehyde adducts are based on the resin KF-G, KF-BZ, KF-MX; M-70 and others. They provide high strength and resistance to heat, high water resistance and absolute stability of adhesive connections.
They release free formaldehyde (toxic substance), forming solid and fragile sticky seams in which large internal stresses may occur due to reduction of glue when healing it.
These stresses reduce the strength of the adhesion compounds and cause glued glued products. The hardness of self-adhesive compounds during machining with the help of glued parts and products has a strong effect on cutting tools. Therefore, plasticizers (polyvinyl acetate dispersion, synthetic latex), PVA is entered into urea formaldehyde adhesives.
Bonding wood is carried out in cold and hot modes.
Cold gluing (without heating) reduces energy costs, but it requires a long exposure to laminated billet under pressure to cure glue and aligning wood moisture, which gives a low capacity of the hardware and requires large production areas.
Therefore, a hot connection is often used (when heated).
At the same time, curing the glue accelerates and increases the performance of the equipment, less press and production area.
Repair of joinery tools
Having spent actuators (hammers, hammers, saws, airplanes, chisel, chisel), wooden elements Tool label (Erunka, Mälk, Mälk, thickness) is replaced with new ones. They are made of dry high-quality hardwood with moisture content of no more than 12%.
Technological process of manufacturing carpentry
The process of manufacturing carpentry and joinery and structures consists of working operations (individual types of work), which are divided into main (technological) and auxiliary.
When conducting key operations (sawing, planing), thread, gluing, etc.) change the form, size and properties of the material being processed or the workpiece, and the resulting compound is a serial element in finished products or structures in accordance with the request for technical documentation. Auxiliary operations include accounting and sorting, size and quality control, laying, moving through trade and other operations.
All work (basic and auxiliary) is considered as a production process, and the aggregate and clear sequence of basic (technological) operations is a technological process.
The stream of mass of treated materials and empty parts is a flow of products.
Discerge individual, serial and mass production of wood products. In individual production, products are produced in small quantities, and serial production is performed sequentially. Serial production can be small, medium and large. In mass production, the products of the same type are carried out continuously for a long time and in large quantities (furniture, joinery and construction products).
Furniture Shield- Building material from high quality wood, which is used in the process of manufacturing furniture, flooring, stairs, various interior items.
It is often used when working with interior decoration of the room.
Furniture shield with your own hands at home
Furniture shield is made by deep wood processing according to GOST, following all generally accepted measures. There are two types of furniture shield, in the production of which the tree is dried until the moisture content becomes less than 8%:
- whole - produced using solid wood;
- Fragple - manufactured by combining and processing lamellas, which are obtained in the subsequent sawing or planing of the wood massif of various wood species.
Use in the manufacture of furniture shields ate, pines, oak, birch, maple, larch, ash and many other types of wood indicates a decent choice of material, allowing the buyer to find the perfect option, relying on personal needs. For example, the oak shield is suitable for the manufacture of high-strength lifting frames, since the oak is considered the material, the least susceptible to breakage in a collision with heavy objects.
Modern technology makes it possible to obtain a high-quality fascinating furniture shield that is not inferior in strength and duration of the use of solid. However, the shield made in this way is able to reduce the cost of production, which will later affect the cost of the finished product.
As for use, wood panels are used in the process of manufacturing furniture of various types. The material is chosen in such a way that its characteristic corresponds to the intended direction of operation of furniture and interior items. Cost, naturally, will talk about the quality of the product. This means that the small price of the furniture shield is justified by the presence of bitch, resin pockets and insignificant mechanical flaws. This kind of material is popular in the production of the product to which further processing will have.
It is also worth saying that the price of high quality shields is absolutely justified. Such a material is distinguished by the lack of deficiencies and is used both for the production of the finished item and for the facing of various products and decorative components of the interior.
When choosing a furniture shield, you need to rely on the following characteristics:
- type of woody breed;
- compliance with price and quality;
- view of the shield itself (solid or fool);
- Material parameters.
It should be noted that the manufacturer's reputation is also important when buying a product.
The furniture shield has its advantages. One of the unconditional advantages is the fact that the use of such a shield in the manufacture of furniture leads to a high-quality, environmentally friendly and durable goods. Also, it is impossible not to recall the aesthetic form of the obtained furniture.
The furniture shield manufacturing technology retains the naturalness of wood, protecting material from possible cracks and other strain. Accordingly, the appearance of the finished product is characterized by its attractiveness.
With the arrangement of the apartment you have to answer thousands of questions, and one of the main sounds like this: how to choose a kitchen?
Furniture shield with your own hands - subtlety and nuances of manufacture
It is not only about the style and color of furniture, but also material, texture, design features. This question is of particular relevance, if the premises are distinguished by non-standard forms and sizes, and often finding the perfect kitchen is simply impossible, and to do under the order - the pleasure is expensive.
In this case, there is an optimal solution - make a kitchen from furniture shields with your own hands.
Why is this material selected? Just because the wood was and remains the most popular raw material for the production of furniture, as it is distinguished by practicality, environmental friendliness and high decorativeness. In addition, working with furniture shields does not require extensive experience and special skills.
The advantages of furniture made with their own hands
- The ability to design the kitchen taking into account the dimensions and architectural features of the room.
- Getting a carpentry experience.
- Significant cash savings.
In addition, the simulation and independent manufacture of furniture are pleasure from the process itself, and from the result, since you get truly exclusive high quality products.
Stage 1. Design
The first (and most importantly) step towards the assembly of kitchen furniture is project development. Remember the saying "Some seven times, a rejection once"?
This is exactly the case - at the design stage you need to take into account all the details, think over all the little things.
It is important not to just decide on the number of tables, shelves, bedside tables and other furniture items, but also detail each element of the kitchen interior, given its shape, sizes, as well as the future location and design features.
In addition, it is necessary to prepare a general design project that combines all interior items.
Blueprints Kitchens from furniture shields are the most important "documents", on the basis of which you can collect beautiful and high-quality furniture with your own hands, so their development needs to be paid special attention.
Stage 2. Preparing materials
After careful design, raw materials should be purchased and prepare the necessary tools. The main point in the list of purchases is a furniture shield, which is a wooden sheet consisting of glued lamellae.
One of the best materials for the manufacture of furniture is considered wood larch - It is cheaper than cedar, beech and oak, but almost not inferior to them in practicality and decorativeness.
The fiscal material will be a furniture shield from pine - it loses a little larch in strength qualities, but is distinguished by saturated colors and beautiful natural pattern.
It is necessary to add that buying the furniture shield should be directly from the manufacturer, which guarantees the optimal "price / quality" ratio.
One of the leaders in the production and sale of wooden shields and other wood products is the Angara Plus company, implementing building materials throughout Russia - http://angara-plus.ru/products/mebelnyy-shchit/.
In addition to the furniture shield, you need to purchase:
- bar for assembling furniture frames;
- pVA glue for gluing parts;
- material for shelves - glass, fane or tree;
- sandpaper for grinding;
- accessories - loops, handles, etc.;
- fasteners;
- varnish for finishing finish.
Stage 3.
Works on the installation of a kitchen made of furniture shields with their own hands is a time-consuming process that requires patience, accuracy and a mass of free time.
So that the kitchen is high-quality and beautiful, you need to stick several important rules:
- Strictly follow the design project.
- To ensure the rigidity of the frames of furniture items, cut the ends of the bar at an angle of 45 ° C and connect them with glue or metal corners.
- To cover the lateral and front parts of the furniture, use wooden shields with a thickness of 25 mm, and for the rear walls, use the material of 18 mm.
The kitchen made of furniture shields is not just the opportunity to create exclusive furniture on an individual project, but also a great chance to significantly save when apartment arrangement.
building
In the house of the owner, which is engaged in building, repair and construction of wooden houses, they often need wide wooden shields. Such panels can be purchased in the retail network or produce yourself. To connect a high-quality shield, you need to know some secrets of this work.
Acquisition of the source material
For the shield it is necessary to choose high-quality woody plates. The panels must have the same width and humidity, even fibers over the entire length. Forms that have already shown signs of deformation must be discarded.
2. Texture texture should be the same and not quite different in color. When buying a plate, it is advisable to choose them from one fund.
3. The moisture content in the wood should not exceed 8-9% for solid rocks and for soft - no more than 12-14%.
fourth
For shielding, sawdust texture structure should be used.
Technology gluing furniture board with their own hands
You must choose radial or intermediate cut plates. You can not use lumber, because they are more exposed to scratches.
5. Pay attention to texture lines. If such lines are not parallel, it is a sign that the panels are exposed to bending or torsion.
Sixth
If you want to glue the plates, you need to select the boards with a width up to 120 mm. Although it increases the amount of adhesive seams, it reduces the likelihood of the flexible screen. In large boards there is a large internal load, which leads to scratches and cracking.
7. After the larch lumber is delivered to the workshop, they need to give a few days to equip them with temperature and humidity.
The working process
1. Hold the panel with a thickness of 2-3 mm.
If the screen has a rack at a right angle, additional tolerances require not less than 50 mm, and the screen width is at least 15 mm.
second
The layer of all screen plates is aligned on the plane.
3. On the thickness machine, all panels are calibrated to the desired thickness.
4. Then, again on the scheduler, one edge is strongly inclined 90 degrees to the panel.
Fifty
Another edge is clipped on a round machine, and the saw discs on the steering wheel are also deleted.
6. Prepare the required number of clips and a flat surface on which the screen will be protected.
Prepared plates must be immediately attached to the screen. Since delays can lead to the invasion of ready-made empty parts. If the screen width is large, it should be laid in several parts in stages. The width of these parts should not exceed the width of the working area of \u200b\u200bthe machine so that it can be aligned after gluing.
And from the prepared and calibrated parts, the entire shield glovenas.
Before gluing the shield, it is necessary to create smooth rods with the same thickness that prepared plates are stacked. This ensures that clamps without obstacles can be attached to the clamping screen.
Wrap the edge of the glue, lock the clips and fix them. The clamping force controls glue, which is extruded from the joints. It should form a steady roller. Installing the terminals starts from the edge of the screen.
After the first installation and a small hold immediately on this edge, the fasteners are installed on all adhesive connections. It is necessary that the panels do not move to each other.
The next clamp is then installed horizontally at a distance of 250-270 mm from the first and opposite side of the screen.
At the same time, you should always check that the plates are in the same plane. If necessary, they are displaced. Install the remaining clips that are exchanged and the bottom of the screen.
When you reach the second edge of the screen, use clamping clamps (which are removed from the first edge) to attach adhesive clamps and set the rear horizontal clip.
About five minutes later, vertical clamping clamps are removed so that the glue can dry at these points.
Once the glue is pressed out of the joints slightly dry, remove it with a scraper or spatula.
After the end of the glue terminals are removed.
In place http://www.foresthouse.ru/ - Forest house dedicated to timber and sale of heating heaters can also look at various materials on the topic of woodworking and wood construction.
This site contains a large number of unique articles that are useful for newcomers and masters who work in the construction of wooden country housing.
This article belongs to the Expert on the woodworking industry Zelenzov Yuri Nikolayevich. Copying an article without written consent is prohibited.
10/21 / 2013 Samoilov
Choose a furniture shield: the properties and features of the material
Furniture shields are used both for residential and industrial premises - these designs are considered universal.
So, they can be used as a serious fence or decorative element of the interior. Before making choices, decide on the possibilities of the room and the main goal - for what you are going to use furniture panels page. First, pay attention to the following points.
What do you need to know?
Before choosing furniture shields, try to answer the following questions. So, you can find a common language with the seller, and also decide on the final choice.
- What level of humidity in the room, where are you going to install a shield?
- What kind of load, and in what form (collected or collapsible) should withstand the furniture shield from oak there?
- What is more important for you: strength or appearance of the product?
If you want to determine the quality of the furniture shield, pay attention to the structure of the wood.
Make the original kitchen with your hands from furniture shields
Also, do not be lazy to explore the marking on the product itself.
Remember that each of the criteria is especially important when choosing. For example, wood constantly absorbs excessive moisture. Even if you purchased a varnish product, with time the shield can change your shape or deform. In one year, the wooden structure absorbs up to 12% of moisture from its own volume.
As a rule, high-quality shields are manufactured from wooden bars glued and impregnated with a safe composition.
Do not forget that the tree cleans the air and at the same time absorbs harmful substances. Therefore, wooden panels are best used from an aggressive environment (for example, in residential areas).
Interestingly, the furniture shields are deformed not as fast as natural wood, because in the design itself there is no such tension as in a wooden array.
They can be refined and turning into very practical furniture. So, you can make a soft corner for a nursery, bed for bedroom or partially furnish the kitchen.
The following points can be attributed to the disadvantages. Unfair manufacturers often use wet blanks, so the shield is deformed still in the process of drying.
At best, you will receive a deformed product, and in the worst - cracks and low-quality seams.
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