A knife from a wrench. Kucha knives from wrench. Modern options for shark

I like to make crafts with your own hands. Especially from their items and things. So to speak, breathe new life in them. Wrench keys ... over the years with the intensive use of their working faces (zev) wear out and gradually diverge (especially when applied to them excessive effort when unscrewing rusty or highly tightened bolts and nuts). It is impossible to use such keys, and it is dangerous (you can damage your fingers), throw away - it is a pity. What to do with them?

There is an exit! Draw from it a knife! And what: the appropriate size (the greater the key number, the longer the knife and the hardness), high strength and hardness (usually the keys are made from chromium or chromovanadium structural steel grades 40x, 40khf, 40хs and their foreign analog AISI 5140). The steel brand is usually indicated on the handle in the form of convex numbers and letters or simply the words "chromovanady".

The knife made from the key turns out so sharp that they can shave their hair without any problems, while it is also pretty durable, so it will fit and forged branches.

Used materials and tools

The following materials will be required for work:

• wrench at 30 or so;

• tree bars (for handle lining);

• brass rods (for pins);

• epoxy adhesive;

• oil for hardening;

• polishing paste;

• tree impregnation oil;

• ribs, paper napkins.

To carry out operations, you will need tools machining material and devices:

• ribbon grinding machine (Grinder);

• endless abrasive tape, sandpaper;

• files for metal and wood;

• bulgarian;

• drilling machine or drill;

• marker;

• clamps;

• vice;

• gas burner-based furnace;

• bormashin;

• scriber;

• metal ruler, etc.

The process of manufacturing a knife from a wrench

Initially, it is necessary to put the workpiece (we have a wrench). It should be cleaned of dirt and rust with a grinder or drill with a wire nozzle. Now, along the cleansed surface of the key using a metal line and the drain, it is easier to mark the knife profile with some assumption.

After that, it is embarked in the segment of all extra with the help of a grinder and a cutting circle, pre-reliably shrinking the workpiece into vice. The closer to the outlined circuit, a segment will be produced, the less you will have to grind the metal on the tape grinder.

To accurately outline the profile, the blank is additionally processed on a ribbon grinding machine with an abrasive endless tape. At the same time, burgers are removed simultaneously and sharp corners and facets curve.

The following operation will not be superfluous: removal of excess metal with a grinder in the area of \u200b\u200bthe future blade.

For this, the workpiece must be safely clamped in vice. Complete this transition better in Grinder, which brings the transverse profile of the blade knife to its final form.

The next operation is one of the main. It is necessary to form the cutting part of the knife - blade. With the help of the marker, the boundary between the blade and the base of the handle is applied. Then the blade is clamped into a special holder and the excess metal is symmetrically removed from its sides in such a volume to form a thickness equal to the one that will be the finished knife from above with a small admission to the entire height of the blade.

Again, with the help of the marker, the squeezes are scheduled, leaving a narrow belt at the handle (it will give a greater strength of the blade). Moreover, the wider SCOS, the thinner the blade and better cut. Then the caliper draws the central line along the blade. We need it in order to navigate it, forming symmetrical squeezes from two sides. Again the blade is installed in the holder under the right angle and the bilateral grinding of the bevels is produced almost to their fullests.

Bring SCs should be manually using sandpaper, pre-secure the clamp of the Clamp. It must also be done because after quenching the metal to handle harder.

The next operation is hardening - also very responsible and difficult. The blade is split into the furnace based on a gas burner to a yellow glow and falls into a container with cooling butter. The sharp temperature difference not only causes changes inside the metal, but also on its surface: in some places the oxidized areas will be visible. They are quickly cleaned with sandpaper on a tissue basis in the presence of water.

Next, with the help of a born or drill with the corresponding nozzle, convex inscriptions are removed - the numbers of the key heads and steel brand. It must be done so that the lining makes the tight to the bottom of the handle.

Now the blade is polished with the help of polishing paste and a felt circle, which is worn on the spindle drill. After this operation, the blade acquires almost a mirror glitter, and the blade is sufficient sharpness.

Next, three holes in the handle are drilled, pre-marking their place with the help of core and hammer. The drilling tempered metal is not so easy. It is better to do this on a drilling machine, and not with the help of a drill. The holes in the diameter should provide a dense landing in them pins, which will be the key to reliable fixation of the pads on the handle.

Then the almost finished knife is dipped into a special oily liquid, polished again by the nozzle on the drill and is wiping into paper napkins to the mirror gloss.

The lining can be made of birch wood, beech, maple, cherries, pears, etc. Using the handle as a conductor, the holes in the wooden bars under the pins are drilled.

Then the linings are processed on a ribbon grinding machine to final sizes.

The last operation is to install overlays on the knife using pins and epoxy glue.

All bondable surfaces are well cleaned, lubricated with glue, pins are installed and tightened by clamps to complete glue solidification.

After drying the glue, the pins are cut off with lining and slightly primed under the surface of the lining. The tree should be soaked with oil so that there is protection against moisture and dirt. It remains only to wipe the knife with a rifle, and he is ready for work.

In custody…

It must be borne in mind that according to GOST 2838-80 "wrenches. General technical conditions ", the hardness of the keys handle may be 5 HRCE units less than the lower limit of hardness for the oz (average value of 41.5 HRCE). Therefore, when the profile is marked, the knife should be directed toward the larger point. Then a significant part of it will have increased hardness.

It is not necessary as a workpiece to use cheap (usually Chinese) keys to label "Drop Forget Steel", which means "wrought steel". They are neither strength or hardness are not suitable for the manufacture of knives.

In the kitchen, the presence of sharpeners for knives is relevant. Many use grinding stones or similar abrasives. However, such a toolkit requires more laborious work and adherence to the optimal inclination during sharpening, it is necessary to correctly keep the canvas with respect to the surface of the grinding stone and make quite a few movements with pressure.

Modern options for shark

In addition, there are more efficient, but much more expensive sharpening options. For example, there are special abrasives that are sold in the form of grains that fill one or another capacity (most often a glass or a decanter) and the knife is sharpened when it is put / dip in such a container. An interesting option, but such purchases are quite expensive.

It is possible to buy Chinese sharpeners, which consist of abrasive circles, attached to the handle. Also a good option, inexpensive and convenient, no need to observe the slope, the problem is only that the quality, as well as the duration of the service of such a device is extremely low. Simply put, the purchase is not enough for a long time and then it will be necessary to acquire a new sharpener, even if not expensive.

Is it possible to find something optimal in this manifold? As you know, if you want something, you need to do it yourself. This is the case with a sharpener for knives. It is possible to take a scheme of Chinese sharpeners, but to use more durable details and independently make an inexpensive, but quality option.

Sharpeners and wrenches

In order to make the device we consider, you will need to use a wrench with a ring zev. So it will be optimal.

Note. In fact, the ring zev is only the most convenient option, but it is possible to take it just a wrench, only perhaps work will be a little more.

In the paper it will be necessary:

• bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• rubber gaskets;
• a pair of abrasive circles;
• washers and hex nuts;
• little twig with carvings.

The creation process is simple and elementary, so we will not go into details if something is not entirely clear, just start doing and in the process of the part will clarify.

It is really quite easy to understand the design and how to do the work, here are the main steps:

• we make a small propyl on the end of the oz, centimeter-one and a half;
• on the ends weld the nuts;
• we clean, hang welding;
• we insert a twist in the nuts with a thread, which later on both sides also tighten nuts;
• however, first put in the center: puck, abrasive circle, washer, gasket, washer, circle, puck;
• tighten the design nuts outside.

It will only be left to make a comfortable handle. For this, various options can be used. For example, twist the handle with plastic or other material, you can even sharpen a wooden handle.

Anyway, on this sharpener completed. The sharpening is performed when the knife is placed between the inner washer and the abrasive circle is carried out there. It is clear, to sharpen evenly every side.

Want to make the manufacture of knives, and do not know where to get good steel for this case? It's right under your nose - this is wrenches. They use high-quality high carbon steel, which is well quenching, forging and so on. Of course, the wrench must be branded, and not from raw Chinese steel. As a rule, when processing a good metal with a grinder, the abundant sparks roll.
Standing wrenches are not expensive, the knife made will cost ten times more than the key, be it even just bought in the store.

The technique of manufacturing a knife, which we will consider today is a rather professional approach - this is a forging. But it is not necessary to scare and run away, when making a knife, the author used very simple, common tools, which will certainly be able to get. As for the furnace, it can be made from the bucket, and coals for the grill are as fuel.

Materials and tools used by the author for the manufacture of a knife:

List of materials:
- a wrench (size can choose your discretion);
- two nails (used as pins);
- Tree (for overlays on the handle);
- epoxy adhesive;
- oil for impregnation of wood.

List of tools:
- clamps;
- gas burner (preferably);
- Dremel or drill with a grinding nozzle;
- polishing nozzle for a drill;
-
- sharpened;
- Files;
- vice;
- sandpaper of different grainability;
- a hammer;
- anvil;
-
- oil (for quenching);
- pliers;
- furnace from bucket (or similar);
- coal;
- household hair dryer + piece of pipe;
- ignition liquid.

Knife manufacturing process:

Step one. Prepare the workpiece
We take a wrench that is not sorry to sacrifice, and from him a lodge. The key is not obliged to be good, you can use broken, broken and so on.

Step second. Less blank
Spill your oven, coals can be blown using an ordinary hair dryer. We split the workpiece of hot, after which the metal will become soft. Cleash the workpiece into vice and align the precipitated part, as it is done at an angle. All this is done with light blows hammer.

Step Three. Start forging
Heat the part of the workpiece that will act as a blade. We work with a hammer on the anvil. The metal cools pretty quickly, so the workpiece will have to heat none times as it depends on the skill. Form the desired blade profile, align it.

Step fourth. We form a rough grinding
We have formed the main profile, now we find the workpiece in the vice and we go through the blade with the grinder, with the installed grinding circle. You can sharpen the profile over the contour, as well as form the squeezes. The blade with forging must be treated as thin as possible so that it was less grinding.

Pitch fifth. Quenching
Before hardening the knife, the author decided to flatten a slightly part of the key to keep her knife. But it is not necessary to do this, you can leave and as it is. We warm this part of the Sausage and then squeeze in the vice.

Go to hardening, it is important to note that this process implies the use of more metal leave, but the author missed this moment for some reason. For hardening, heat the knife is hot and cool in oil, oil can be used vegetable or mineral. Judging by the color, the author uses car work.

Next, it is recommended to make a metal leave, as it will be fragile and at a certain point can break. Slisse the blade in the oven and warm for about an hour at a temperature of 200-250 degrees Celsius, then let it cool into the oven, without opening it.

Step six. Drill holes and collect a handle
First of all, you need to drill two holes under the pins in the tail part. As the pins, the author decided to use ordinary nails. This is not aesthetically, but reliably and practical. Just so in the censum metal hole you will not drill, it will take it to let it release it. We take the burner and warm up the metal in the right place is hot, then let him cool to cool. Everything, steel has become soft, the holes can be drilled by the usual metal drill.

You can start assembling the handle, you need plywood, thin homosities or other similar material. If you wish, you can make a handle set. We take the blanks and drill holes in them under the pins, we collect all the parts on the nails. Epoxy glue will be needed for gluing the components. At the end, all this is the case with clamps and give glue to completely dry. Complete drying of epoxy glue takes 24 hours.

Step seventh. Let's finish handle
We proceed to handle processing, for coarse works, we use sharpened or rasp. To handle problem areas, use a dremel or drill with a grinding nozzle. We form the main profile of the handle, depending on the needs.

Now step is the step of thinning wood processing. In this we will help sandpaper. At first we use large paper, then everything is fine and smaller. Making a handle with absolutely smooth.

Step eighth. Take the knife
For sharpening knife, the author uses a special sharp

Greetings to lovers would feed metal. This time we will look at how to make a simple and interesting knife from a wrench. Good homemade the fact that the wrench there is practically everyone, and you can also use your old broken key for these purposes. Wrench keys can be made from various alloys, in most cases it is alloys with vanadium. Such alloys are not very suitable for the manufacture of knives, as the metal plastic and when sharpening the blade will not hold the sharpness for a long time. However, it even like it to many, because the knife can be quickly assigned. Yes, and the frequency of sharpening depends on what you plan to cut.

It is not difficult to make such a knife, here we will not rush anything, the only thing that we will do from the complex is hardening. However, this procedure is doubtful, since in most cases it will be unknown to us how to harden such steel. In general, it turned out everything interesting and original. Consider in more detail how to make such a knife!

Materials and tools that used

List of materials:
- wrench at 30 or similar;
- a piece of boards (for overlaps);
- brass rods (for pins);
- epoxy adhesive;
- oil for impregnation of wood.

List of tools:
- Bulgarian;
- Ribbon grinding machine;
- marker;
- vice;
- clamps;
- blacksmith furnace;
- Bormashin;
- drilling machine;
- sandpaper.

Knife manufacturing process:

Step one. Cut the main profile
To begin with, we clean the key from rust so that it can be drawn. It is convenient to do it with a grinder with a wire nozzle or emery paper manually. Next, we take the marker and draw the desired Blade's profile. Well, then proceed to cutting. The key clamp in the vice and cut off the excess grog. Also, the author cut off the extra parts in the nose part of the blade, so that then not to grind unnecessary.

At the end, we go along the contour of the grinding disk or process the outline on the ribbon grinding machine, as the author does.

Step second. We form the blade
Next, we need to form the part of the knife that will be a blade. Take the marker and make the desired marks. Next, clamp the blade in a special holder and proceed to grinding. We need to complain everything too much, to form the desired thickness of the blade. As the result, we get an excellent blade.

Step Three. Making Ski.
Again we take the marker and draw the width of the skos, the author they have a maximum width. This will allow the knife to cut well, since the blade will be thin. We also take a caliper and blacks along the blade of the central line. We will be focused on it in the formation of SMOs. Some works on the belt griphamshine, and the squeezes are ready. If there are deep scratches on the metal, pass them by hand using sandpaper, as the hardening is to be left, and the metal will be treated worse.

Step fourth. We descend the blade
The author decided to temper his blade, only the problem is that it is not known which brand has become used, because everyone has become harnessed in different conditions. Nevertheless, you can handle the blade, and it is better to carry out an experiment with a separate piece of metal. It splits the author of the blade to the yellowish glow, and then cools in oil. The vacation procedure was not fulfilled, so it remains unknown if the brittle blade will be brittle. After hardening, the metal can be scratched with a file if the scratches remain, it means that the hardening failed.

Pitch fifth. Clean the knife and drill holes
After hardening on the metal there will be traces of oxidation, we need to remove them. To do this, we work sandpaper, wetting it in water. Water allows you to effectively clean with paper, and it works better. Of course, the emery paper should be on a tissue basis.

Next you can drill holes. It can be quite problematic using a boring machine with good drills. The holes should be of such a diameter so that the pins enter them as tight as possible. This will ensure good knob fixation.

Step six. We make lining and collect a knife
Pads The author does from the tree. Apply the handle to the board and drill holes for the pins. Well, then cut out two lining, process them on the ribbon grinding machine. The author brings the lining to the finished state, that is, along with a knife, we will not grind the handle.

That's all, the lining can be installed on the knife. Here we need pins and epoxy glue. All bondable surfaces carefully cleaned to stick glue well. We apply epoxy glue, set the pins and we are tightened by the clamps before soaring glue. When the glue dries, carefully cut off the pins and perform a light grinding of the lining to compose the pins with the plane.

Next, the tree is necessarily soaked with oil to protect against moisture and dirt. Metal is also recommended to cover with butter in order not to rust when stored. In general, the wrench rust is quite strong, not counting modern shiny keys that are well protected from this. That's all, the knife is ready, it remains to be put out!

That's all, the project is over. Good luck and creative inspirations, if you want to repeat. Do not forget to share your homemade and workers with us!