Insulate the walls of a private house from the outside. The better to insulate the walls of the house outside - advice from experienced experts. Fastening to the frame

Surely residents apartment buildings they are a little jealous of those who live outside the city in a private building. Own living space, garden, fresh air- everyone's dream. Alas, not everything is so simple, because the harsh Russian winters force you to carefully insulate your home in order to prevent it from freezing. This presupposes an impressive investment and constant monitoring of the state of the heat-insulating material, from which the inhabitants of city houses are exempted.

Warming a house is preferable to using a dozen heating devices - you can save money and also make your home more comfortable. It is known that there are two ways to insulate a private building - outside and inside. Experienced experts recommend using both, but the top priority is to take care of the outer insulation. About what kind of material the best way suitable for certain houses - below.

Requirements for thermal insulation material

The consumer is not in danger of a long search for good products - the market is saturated with goods from different manufacturers, so you can choose a decent insulation in any hardware store. However, before buying, it is necessary to analyze the material in question for its physical and chemical properties. These include:

thermal conductivity coefficient (characterizes the ability of the insulation to conduct or hold air; the lower the indicator, the better - you do not have to use a thick layer of material);
moisture absorption coefficient (indicates the material's ability to absorb water in percentage by weight; the higher the indicator, the less durable the insulation is);
density (based on the value, you can determine how much the material will weigh the house);
resistance to fire (there are 4 flammability classes; the first one (G1) is most preferable, which stops burning without an open source of fire);
environmental friendliness (not the most important indicator for consumers, and in vain - to preserve the health of family members, you should choose only natural material from natural components that does not emit impurities into the atmosphere and does not contain synthetic elements);
durability (the service life of the insulation set by the manufacturer);
hygroscopicity (the ability to absorb vapor from the air);
resistance to pests (insects, rodents, birds);
soundproofing properties;
ease of installation (the insulation should be fixed quickly, with a minimum set of tools; it should also be used with minimal amount additional work like slicing into even pieces).

It is difficult to choose a material that has all the desirable qualities. For this reason, it is possible and necessary to carry out insulation outside and inside.

Advantages of external thermal insulation

The question of insulating a private house from the outside arises in two cases - at the design stage of the building or when buying a finished one, but at the same time does not have decent thermal insulation. The second situation is more common. What are the advantages of insulating a home from the outside? These include:

reduced deformability of walls due to additional protection;
the facade perceives sharp temperature fluctuations; as a result, the service life of the structure will be extended;
freedom in choosing the design of the facade, even when the building is erected;
the area of the interior remains unchanged; this allows you to carry out any kind of finishing, and the living conditions will remain the same.

Ways to insulate the house outside

The need and advantages of thermal insulation from the outside are obvious; now the consumer should familiarize himself with the methods of insulation. There are three of them:

"Well" arrangement of the material;
"Wet" glued insulation;
ventilated facade.

In the first case, the insulation is placed inside the walls (for example, between the layers of bricks). It turns out that he is "locked" among two levels. The method is effective, but it is impossible to implement it for an already built house.

In the second case, the layer of insulation is fixed to the glue outside the walls, then additionally attached to the dowels. Several types of coatings are applied on top - reinforcing, intermediate, decorative (finishing). Good way, only requires the intervention of specialists; it is impossible to do wet wall insulation with your own hands without experience.

The ventilated facade resembles a "well" masonry, only the outer layer is facing material- plasterboard, tiles, siding, etc. Additionally, you will have to build a frame system for attaching sheets of heat insulator.

The last method is the most popular, widespread and profitable. It will cost much less than “wet” insulation; in addition, even a beginner can do the job with his own hands. Now the consumer is faced with the most difficult choice.

Existing materials can be divided into two large groups - organic (naturally occurring) and inorganic (obtained using special materials and equipment).

Types and advantages of inorganic insulation

The first place on the list rightfully belongs to the most popular material - mineral wool. It is of three types - stone (basalt), glass and slag. Differing from each other only externally, varieties of mineral wool have the following qualities:

low coefficient of thermal conductivity (0.03 - 0.045);
density variations (from 20 to 200 kg / m3);
excellent noise insulation properties;
vapor permeability (mineral wool can "breathe");
fire resistance.

It is not without a number of disadvantages, including:

attractiveness to rodents and insectoids;
deterioration of thermal insulation characteristics by 50% when only 3-5% of the volume gets wet;
never completely dries out.

In general, mineral wool is good, but it is highly undesirable to use it for cladding a house outside.

The second known outdoor insulation is polystyrene foam. Its pluses:

the heat conductivity coefficient is slightly lower than that of mineral wool (0.03 - 0.037);
is cheaper than other heaters;
lightweight;
density from 11 to 40 kg / m3.

fragility;
release of toxic substances during fire;
does not "breathe", which forces residents to build additional supply and exhaust ventilation;
when directly wet, it absorbs moisture and becomes unusable.

Extruded polystyrene foam is not inferior in thermal conductivity to mineral wool and foam. In addition, he:

does not absorb moisture;
convenient for installation, because it is produced in plates;
stronger than polystyrene;
almost does not allow air to pass through.

Disadvantages:

flammable;
emits harmful substances during combustion.

There is one more type of raw materials used for external thermal insulation of the walls of the house - "warm" plasters. They are a mixture of beads (formed by glass, cement and hydrophobic additives). "Breathe", isolate the room from moisture, do not burn, are not afraid sun rays are easy to repair. Not very common on the market, nevertheless, experienced consumers have already appreciated this insulation.

Varieties and benefits of organic materials

For those who want to feel the maximum closeness to nature, it is recommended to use raw materials from natural ingredients. These include:

cork heaters - have a thermal insulation coefficient of 0.045 - 0.06; are crushed bark of a tree, pressed under the influence of hot steam and resin as a binding element; easy to cut, "breathe", do not form mold, non-toxic; today they are increasingly used to insulate walls from the outside);
cellulose wool (ecowool) - thermal conductivity from 0.032 to 0.038; are crushed cellulose, treated with fire retardants to increase fire-fighting properties; properties resemble cork materials, but they absorb liquid better; do not withstand heavy loads and are not suitable for wall cladding;
hemp - supplied in slabs, rolls, mats based on hemp fibers; does not hold the load poorly, although it is quite dense (20-60 kg / m3);
straw - old way thermal insulation of the walls of the house; breathable material treated with flame retardants to reduce flammability; practically not used today;
seaweed - an exotic method of covering external walls; density up to 80 kg / m3, do not burn, do not rot, do not arouse interest in rodents, are resistant to mold and mildew. Better for light walls.

Preferred insulation for house cladding

Each material has pros and cons. Based on the information presented above, it is possible to make a symbolic rating of the most quality materials for the walls of the house (the first is the most preferable, etc.). It is also worth considering the type of facade design.

For ventilated systems better fit wool - mineral, cellulose. When laying wells, preference is given to material that does not allow moisture to pass through. This is extruded polystyrene foam. Plastering of walls goes well with insulation, whose density is more than 30 kg / m3. For example, with mineral wool, EPS, foam, any organic material.

For light walls of a wooden house, a breathable material is better suited - mineral wool, hemp, ecowool, cork insulation. The first is preferable, but costs a little more.

A country house should be high-quality sheathed with reliable material. The consumer can choose any of those discussed earlier, guided by their wishes or financial capabilities. A competent approach to the purchase of insulation is the key to a long service life of a cozy home.

Owners of private houses often ask themselves what kind of wall insulation is the most effective outside. What is the best insulation to choose so that the supporting wall structures do not conduct the cold in winter and repel the heat in the sultry summer. Many modern thermal insulation materials not only prevent heat loss in the cold season, but also protect the room in summer from the penetration of thermal radiation. The issue of thermal insulation of your home must be approached with all seriousness. How high-quality you make the thermal insulation system for your home depends on how comfortable and cozy the house will be for its residents.

External wall insulation

Thermal insulation materials, types and characteristics

Previously, organic insulation in the form of sawdust, peat, etc. was used to insulate the building structure. A significant disadvantage of these materials was their combustibility, high moisture absorption, susceptibility to decay and mold formation.

On this moment organic heaters are practically not used for thermal insulation of the house. Now the construction market offers a wide range of synthetic thermal insulation materials with the best technical characteristics.

Expanded polystyrene, its advantages and disadvantages

Most people, when deciding how to insulate a house from the outside, prefer expanded polystyrene. Such popularity of this insulation is due to its low cost and excellent performance.

It is especially worth noting the following advantages of expanded polystyrene:

lower, in comparison with mineral wool insulation, thermal conductivity (this allows the thickness of the insulation layer to be made smaller);
affordable cost (expanded polystyrene is cheaper mineral wool);
ease of installation (this material lends itself well to processing).

The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene are: lower vapor permeability, in comparison with mineral wool insulation, and higher flammability.

Expanded polystyrene, despite some of its shortcomings, is widely used for facade insulation. The use of this material for thermal insulation of a building is three to four times cheaper than the use of other insulation, in particular mineral wool.

Important! Due to the low vapor permeability, polystyrene foam is not recommended for insulation wooden houses... The only area of its application is the insulation of stone facades.

Expanded polystyrene is very effective for insulation brick houses... Foam polystyrene insulation with a thickness of only 80 mm makes it possible to reduce fuel consumption by four times in the cold season.

Foil-lined insulation material

A rather interesting modern insulation is a foam-foil insulation. It is a layer of polyethylene foam, which is clamped on both sides with aluminum foil. The peculiarities of this material are low weight and low thermal conductivity (the thermal conductivity of this insulation is 1.5 times less than that of basalt insulation).

The advantages of this material include ease of installation, the insulation is attached to the walls with a construction stapler. Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting the absolute vapor and gas tightness.

Insulation pressed cork

Such a rather exotic insulation, like pressed cork, is made from the bark of cork oak growing in the Mediterranean. This insulation is produced in rolls and plates, has a very attractive appearance, is an environmentally friendly material. The pressed cork is used for internal insulation walls, this material, due to its excellent appearance, also performs the functions decorative finishing... For external insulation of facades, cork slabs can also be used.

Rock-based mineral wool

A distinctive feature of mineral wool fibers is its ability, without melting, to withstand temperatures above 1000 °. Thanks to this, mineral wool prevents the spread of fire, and protects the structures of houses built from combustible materials from fire (for example, wooden houses). Heaters with high water absorption rates lose their heat-insulating properties, since water, getting into the heat-insulating material, fills the air pores and increases the thermal conductivity of the insulation. Mineral wool practically does not absorb moisture, therefore it remains dry and retains the properties of low thermal conductivity, even if moisture gets on its surface.

The numerous advantages of mineral wool also include high resistance to mechanical stress.

Fiberglass thermal insulation materials

Fiberglass materials can be used to insulate the outside of the house. The main components used to make fiberglass are cullet, sand, dolomite, limestone, soda, ethybor, etc. The raw material for fiberglass is melted into melting furnace at 1400 ° and is fed to the front forge, where it passes the fiberization stage. In centrifuges, molten glass breaks down into 6 micron fibers. After that, the resulting products are impregnated with polymer resin and fed to the conveyor, where they are formed into mats. The remaining water is evaporated from the mats and a high-quality insulation is obtained.

Fiberglass materials have best qualities for thermal insulation of building facades, which include:

Fire safety.
Cost-effective transportation.
Ease of installation.
Low coefficient of thermal conductivity (from 0.035 to 0.044 W / mK), due to the ability of fiberglass to hold air firmly, and, as a result, excellent thermal insulation properties. Fiberglass insulation can reliably protect against cold in winter and heat in summer.
Resistant to moisture. Due to its non-hygroscopicity (glass wool does not absorb water), the heat-insulating properties do not deteriorate when moisture gets on the material.
Environmental friendliness. Fiberglass insulation does not emit harmful substances and is safe for health, it does not form mold and rot.

Glass wool is an effective insulation

What is better for thermal insulation of walls from the outside: mineral wool or expanded polystyrene

Mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are the most demanded heaters for thermal insulation of walls from the outside. Installation of mineral wool slabs is similar to styrofoam laying technology, in addition, these two heaters have similar specifications, therefore, when they decide what is the best way to insulate the house from the outside, first of all, these two insulation materials are compared.

When they want to cheaply insulate the walls from the outside, in most cases they choose polystyrene boards. This material is not only cheaper in itself than mineral wool, but its installation does not require special skills or complex tools; almost every owner can do the installation of thermal insulation using foam plates with his own hands. But when arranging cheap foam insulation of walls from the outside, one should not discount the fact that this material has a small mechanical strength... In addition, rats and mice are very fond of gnawing foam.

For insulation of facades, manufacturers produce special types of vapor-permeable foam with a compacted outer layer. But the cost of such material is not less than the cost of mineral wool.

Insulation such as extruded polystyrene foam is not suitable for insulating walls from the outside, as it has zero vapor permeability. Using it to insulate facades leads to dampness of the material from which the walls are erected. From moisture, mold and mildew appear on the surface of the walls. On the market, you can buy vapor-permeable perforated extruded polystyrene foam intended for external insulation of facades. But their price is not less than the cost of mineral wool insulation.

When using expanded polystyrene for external wall insulation, it is better to purchase material with atypirens, these are special substances that prevent the material from burning. Polyfoam with a fire retardant acquires fire-fighting properties.

Mineral wool is not flammable, it resists mechanical stress well and has sufficient vapor permeability, therefore, for external wall insulation, it is more preferable, but when the right device thermal insulation system, foam plates will also cope well with their functions.

How to insulate a house can be found from many sources, construction crews who specialize in this will also tell a lot in detail. But all this - thermal insulation according to the rules - requires a lot of money.

Very often it is required to insulate an old house or country house perhaps not as durable, and not very beautiful, but as cheaply and quickly as possible. The most cheap insulation, by the way, from natural materials, which were used by grandfathers ...

Cheap home insulation does not mean poor quality

It is necessary to decide to what extent the house should be insulated. For example, to make it a little warmer, or noticeably warmer, or still insulate so that heating becomes 3 times cheaper (for example), and in winter the temperature inside rises to +25 degrees without stress from the heating side. Those. thermal insulation measures will be economically viable and will quickly pay off.

It is beneficial to insulate according to the last option, i.e. the highest quality. And half-hearted decisions are a half-waste of time, effort and resources.

Therefore, you will have to forget about any old blankets, bedding, foam foams 5 mm thick as a heater. The thickness of the insulation should be measured in tens of centimeters, then it will be warm, and saving on energy will “inflate the pocket”.

But how to insulate the house at the same time extremely cheaply? If you buy cotton wool insulation in hypermarkets, then it won't work out cheaply, if you change windows and doors, it will get even more expensive. Let's try to make the insulation the most inexpensive.

Everything that opens and is transparent is to seal and heat insulate first of all

The lion's share of heat can go through windows and doors due to cracks and drafts. Insulation of the house should be started by installing seals where anything opens. Now it is not problematic to choose an adhesive-based sealant.

It is possible that the slots are simply in frames, trays or along their perimeter. Then all of them need to be sealed with a sealant or in combination with a cloth, and from the street side too.

Very often there are gaps in the places where the glasses adhere to the frames. Scotch tape will not help much here, although you can use it too. But it is better to take out the glasses and put them on a sealant.

New windows and doors are the best way out

The question of windows and doors is the basis for keeping warm. The best way out- insert modern frames with double-glazed windows, but this action will be the most expensive.

You need to think about which of the windows you can close outside for the winter plastic wrap so that illumination and street visibility are not severely affected. A "homemade double-glazed window" is obtained from the film, if it is pulled 1.5 - 2 cm from the glass, and at the same time the docking with the frame is sealed. To help - glazing beads, small nails, possibly a sealant, after which the heat leakage through this window will be reduced significantly.

Old doors, especially metal ones, are a serious cold bridge (a place where heat leaves the house). And if the door contour is already sealed, then it remains just to stick 5 cm of dense foam on top of the canvas. As a last resort, nail in a cotton blanket or felt from 3 cm thick.

Natural heat insulators can be stored on the ceiling

Do not grab hold of the wall insulation if the issue with attic floor and floors. The walls are not so decisive, and besides, with them it will not work cheaply. And on a horizontal surface, you can put any insulation.

In order to insulate the ceiling and floors as cheaply as possible, it remains to collect fallen leaves from all over the area, as well as, if possible, straw and hay.

But these organic materials must be mixed with loose lime, to prevent biological destruction and reduce traction, rodents will settle in such a comfortable environment. However, it is no secret that the hayloft in the attic has been used since ancient times as ...

Inexpensive - Styrofoam for the attic

In the attic, you need to store a layer of natural insulation with a minimum thickness of 35 cm in order to get the effect. Can you replace it? Yes, the cheapest way is to replace it with polystyrene with a layer of 15 cm or more for a temperate climate.

The cheapest, lightest density can be used. But it must be laid in several layers, with the displacement of the seams between the sheets in layers, so that there are no cold bridges along the cracks. If you cover the foam with plywood and then a board, you can walk on it ...

When insulating the ceiling of a house, a vapor barrier is needed. Otherwise, we risk wetting the insulation, even polystyrene, because the steam will condense just inside its layer. Therefore, first of all, the attic must be covered with a continuous plastic wrap. The same goes for any layer in the attic.

Placement of heat insulator for the floor

Carrying out work on floors does not fundamentally differ from the ceiling. First, a vapor barrier from the side of the house, then 10 cm of foam or 25 cm of natural insulation. But how to place it all?

Insulation of finished floors depends entirely on their construction. The low underground is covered with insulation on the waterproofed ground. Otherwise, the insulation is placed between the logs on the boards, ventilated from below, and from the side of the house it is isolated by water vapor.

If there is no way to open the floors, then all that remains is to lay something on top of the existing wooden floors. Then do a double floor? But it will come out more expensive. "Rags" will not help. Even 1 cm thick felt will not help much. But with desperate situation and it is applicable.

The cheapest and easiest way is to simply lay polyethylene on the existing floor, then the same foam with increased density from 30 kg / m cube with a thickness of 5 cm in two layers with bandaging of the seams, and on it just put a platform made of planks docked with a thorn-groove. But at the same time, the lower old floor will quickly rub off, especially if the ventilation is poor from below ...

If the loss of the height of the room when laying a new layer on the floor is not acceptable, then it may still be worthwhile to make a major insulation of the floors from underground, at least in one room to begin with ...?

What is a heap?

Why did you do the filling? At least a quarter of the heat leaving the house was saved by the heap - stored hay, straw, under the boards around the perimeter of the house. This reduced the loss of heat through the walls, foundations and floors of the house. Now the filling can be partially replaced by a blind area insulated with extruded polystyrene foam.

Thermal insulation of the ground around the house and the foundation itself is not only a decrease in heat loss, but also measures aimed at preserving the house, increasing its durability. More information about measures against soil heaving can be found on these pages.

It remains to insulate the walls, but how?

When it comes to wooden house, then the walls are most likely not worth insulating. 20 cm of dry wood is equivalent in thermal insulation to 5 cm of foam. Almost the norm for walls in temperate climates. But if the walls are stone, brick, reinforced concrete, then you need to insulate.

The problem is that it won't work cheaply with walls - you need modern insulation, which must be fixed to a vertical surface and protected from weathering. The insulation should be more vapor-transparent than the wall, therefore, mineral wool is needed for wood, foam concrete, and ordinary foam plastic can be used for brick, concrete.

You can insulate the walls yourself, so you will have to spend only on materials. If you take your time, you can insulate the walls and not in one season. But you need to do it with high quality, in compliance with technology.

How the walls of the house are insulated can be found on this resource. Here, for example, we recall key points how to inexpensively cover the wall with foam.

The sequence of wall fencing with foam

A little overview, oh inexpensive insulation for home, gives only primary knowledge about the technologies used. In the process of performing the work, many questions will appear, which cannot be considered in one article. You need to know that thermal insulation measures in themselves are not complicated, so you can take on the case yourself, which means you can save at least half of the cash costs.

This question is of most interest to people living in own home... Residents of cities rarely resort to external insulation of the walls of their apartments, as this is due to high costs, including the services of industrial climbers. However, many have in their property some kind of buildings in which it is necessary to create good conditions, including temperature. For example, a country house, a garage, a bathhouse.

Not everyone understands that insulation allows you not only to create a comfortable microclimate in a particular building. External insulation of any structure also gives a purely economic effect. First, there is no need to frequent inclusion elements of additional heating of premises. After all, electric heating devices are mainly used for this. Consequently, the cost of energy has to be paid even more than usual. Secondly, the lower temperature in the structure (and if the humidity is also appropriate) favors the fungus. And this is decay or damage to walls, ceilings, things. And again - money "out of pocket": for repairs, for the purchase of a new thing.

The outside of the house is insulated with various materials. But when choosing "insulation" you need to be guided by what, first of all, the walls of the house are made of. Indeed, for each building material (in particular, insulation), its own installation technology is provided. It may turn out that it will be possible to insulate a particular house with the chosen material, but this will require a lot of additional work. This means that there will be a loss of time and again all the same money. Therefore, the choice must be optimal. Let's dwell on some heaters and consider the features of their installation.

Methods for exterior insulation of a house using various materials

You need to understand that external thermal insulation is the most effective. It does not reduce the "cubic capacity" of the premises, does not accumulate moisture in the rooms, therefore, the walls do not "sweat". Thermal insulation of walls requires special attention. Experts say that up to 30% of the heat "leaves" through them. So, we begin to insulate with various materials.

Foam insulation

One of the most popular, lightweight and cheap insulation materials. To work with it, no special devices or technologies are required. However, you need to consider what belongs to the category of combustible building materials. The order of work will be as follows:

preparation of wall surfaces. It is necessary to achieve its careful alignment. Polyfoam is available in plate format. If such a plate is applied to an uneven surface, then voids are formed. Firstly, with mechanical stress on this place, the foam will simply burst. Secondly, any isolated space is a potential accumulation of moisture, various insects, etc .;
as part of the preparation, the subsequent priming of the surface. If there are residues of whitewash on the wall, for example, then the glue that will hold the foam will simply not "grab" the wall. Therefore, you need to wash it well and prime it;
the next stage is the installation of the ebb (external). They must be leveled horizontally using a level so that later you do not have to cut the foam plate;
Before laying the slabs, the base must be installed. It is also called the "starting bar". It will not allow the slab to slide down, and it will be much easier to keep the line.

Laying foam plates begins from the bottom. The evenness of the entire row also depends on how the bottom plate is correctly positioned. Plates are "planted" with glue. Professionals recommend three days after the sticker to additionally fix them on the nails (if the wall material allows this).

If a house from a bar is insulated with foam, then all holes and cracks must be carefully repaired. Any material will do: mineral or ecowool, polyurethane foam or something different. The main thing is to eliminate air circulation, drafts.

Calculator for calculating the amount of insulation:

We insulate with mineral wool

This material has several names, and most often it is called short -. There are also names for glass wool, stone wool, mineral wool insulation. This material is based on fiberglass. On sale there are special slabs made of this material, which "sheathed" the outer walls. For fastening such plates, special fittings are used. Stone wool "linrok" is especially popular. Walls, roofs, attics are insulated with it. This material, unlike foam, is flexible, so its installation does not require such careful surface preparation.

Warming with polystyrene (penoplex)

As a rule, basements, cellars, foundations, walls are most often insulated with them. This material is one of the best in the protection of buildings from the effects of groundwater. For external insulation, polystyrene plates and special plaster, which includes this material, are used. It must be borne in mind that several brands are produced. For home use "31" and "35". Warming is carried out in several stages.

slabs are glued to the wall using a plaster mixture;
from above the slabs are covered again with one layer of the same mixture. This layer is needed for additional protection of the insulation material;
an alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh is applied on top;
the entire surface is primed;
the last layer is at the choice of the owner. You can just paint, plaster. Can be covered with some kind decorative material... This is already a matter of taste.

Features of the insulation of wooden houses

It should be borne in mind that any tree, whatever species it may be, evaporates moisture. In such cases, it is said that it "breathes". It is for this reason that with external insulation wooden buildings you need to think about creating good ventilation of the walls. Experts recommend using glass wool or basalt wool... It's almost the same thing, the only difference is in the price. Glass wool will be cheaper.

Before installing the insulation, it is recommended to replace the wooden window frames with plastic ones. Installation begins after the installation of the frame. It is mounted from wooden slats installed vertically (like a crate). The distance between the slats is chosen to be equal to the width of the insulating material slab. Special plastic dowels are used to fix the slabs to the slats.

First, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then a heater. After installing the insulation layer, a special film (windproof) is attached on top. Its purpose is to "release" moisture from the wall, but not to let it outside. At the last stage, you can lay a layer, clad the walls with siding.

Before opting for any particular insulation, it is still better to consult with a specialist. After all, there cannot be a single recommendation for everyone. In addition to those features that have already been mentioned, other factors must be taken into account. For example, the climatic conditions in the region of residence. This includes humidity with its differences, and the maximum and minimum ambient temperatures.

It is also necessary to take into account how the selected material reacts to aggressive chemicals, to exposure to sunlight and the possibility of emitting harmful substances, etc. Therefore, the cost of the material should not be decisive, although it does matter.

Ecology of consumption. Manor: No one argues that the main quality of a home for our latitudes is, first of all, warmth and comfort. But how to achieve this with minimal energy consumption - individual developers do not know this, and even more so they do not know how. Therefore, some simple truths can be a revelation for many.

No one argues that the main quality of a home for our latitudes is, first of all, warmth and comfort. But how to achieve this with minimal energy consumption - individual developers do not know this, and even more so they do not know how. Therefore, some simple truths can be a revelation for many.

Almost in any region of Russia, the construction of individual residential buildings is being carried out en masse. As a rule, this is housing superior comfort equipped with all city amenities - water supply, sewerage and automatic system heating. All these engineering Communication require serious material costs and often make up a significant part of the value of the house.

This is a feature of our national construction site that, in an effort to reduce the cost of construction, rarely anyone tries to calculate the cost of operating a house built by their own hands. So the owners of new private houses “crawl out sideways” savings on building materials, thickness and thermal insulation of the foundation, outer walls and ceilings - they have to shiver from the cold, because even a powerful heating boiler does not help.

“The Russian peasant is strong in hindsight,” says a well-known Russian proverb. Naturally, it is better to take care of the thermal insulation of the house even at the design and construction stages. Thermal insulation of a building under construction has many nuances. Almost all of them are described in the joint venture ( building regulations), GOSTs and popular publications, which indicate what and how to insulate. However, it is best to entrust this delicate matter to specialists who identify the so-called "problem areas" of heat leakage: windows and walls, basement floors and foundations, floors and attic, as well as improperly organized ventilation.

And what to do when the very first wintering in a new building showed the fruits of a construction marriage: mold and decay interior decoration, slits in fillings of light and doorways, cold floors and ventilation, whizzing out the heat from the house, and energy bills hurt your pocket. In addition, children also catch colds and adults keep up with them.

There is only one way out of this, familiar to many, disastrous situation - the localization of problem areas of heat leaks from the home. The competent use of high-quality thermal insulation, although it will require additional investments, will save the homeowner from the above problems.

What is the best way to insulate a house? What building materials are needed to insulate a house? How to do it correctly and what should not be forgotten? Let's try to talk about really useful and specific things.

What is the best way to insulate outside walls

As you know, due to the large area of contact with the environment, walls are the most vulnerable from the point of view of construction heat engineering - up to 40% of all heat losses at home occur through them. During operation, the outer walls of a building are affected by temperature changes, atmospheric moisture, solar radiation and other unfavorable factors.

Unfortunately, there are no ideal walls - it is impossible to completely prevent heat loss through structural elements, technological holes, etc. However, heat loss can be significantly reduced by methods additional insulation... Of course, specific solutions for insulation depend on what material the walls are made of (timber, brickwork, reinforced concrete), but general principles are similar everywhere.

Additional insulation of enclosing structures can be carried out in two ways: inside the building and outside. Both of these methods are used equally widely and have their own strengths and weaknesses.

When the insulation is placed on the inside of the wall, the external appearance of the house does not change, it is easier to make insulation - after all, all work is carried out inside a heated building. Particular attention should be paid to the insulation of the wall section located behind heating device... The heat from the radiator raises the temperature of the inner surface of the wall, and the heat flux through this section of the wall increases significantly. Therefore, during the construction or renovation of a house, it is advisable to install an additional layer of insulation in the wall niche behind the radiator.

But such a science as "building thermal physics" cannot be fooled by such measures. For if the insulation is carried out outside, the problem of moisture condensation is very effectively solved by using modern vapor-permeable heaters(for example, FACADE BATTS) - the zone of condensation is displaced into the insulation layer, which evaporates it into environment... This allows the load-bearing wall to remain dry and significantly extends the life of the structure. In addition, the wall protected by a layer of thermal insulation ceases to experience temperature drops and, remaining constantly heated from the inside, becomes a kind of heat accumulator, helping to maintain set temperature... The aesthetic side cannot be discounted as well - as a rule, painted buildings are more attractive than just brick ones.

What is better for thermal insulation of walls from the outside: mineral wool or expanded polystyrene?

Mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are the most demanded heaters for thermal insulation of walls from the outside. The installation of mineral wool slabs is similar to the styrofoam laying technology, in addition, these two heaters have similar technical characteristics, so when they decide what is the best way to insulate a house from the outside, first of all, these two heaters are compared.

When they want to cheaply insulate the walls from the outside, in most cases they choose polystyrene boards. This material is not only cheaper in itself than mineral wool, but its installation does not require special skills or complex tools; almost every owner can do the installation of thermal insulation using foam plates with his own hands. But when installing cheap foam insulation of walls from the outside, one should not discount the fact that this material has little mechanical strength. In addition, rats and mice are very fond of gnawing foam.

For insulation of facades, manufacturers produce special types of vapor-permeable foam with a compacted outer layer. But the cost of such material is not less than the cost of mineral wool.

On the market, you can buy vapor-permeable perforated extruded polystyrene foam intended for external insulation of facades. But their price is not less than the cost of mineral wool insulation.

Mineral wool is not flammable, it resists mechanical stress well, it has sufficient vapor permeability, therefore, it is more preferable for external wall insulation, but with the correct design of the thermal insulation system, foam plates will also cope well with their functions.

The simplest and time-tested method of external insulation is wet plaster, that is, the usual processing of the facade of the building. plaster mixes using reinforcing devices - shingles, nets, etc. However, while this type of wall treatment is simple and cheap, it is not very effective. Therefore, at present, the classic plaster has been replaced by multi-layer contact heat-insulating facade systems, each layer in which has a special function. This method of insulation can be called universal - it is suitable for almost any walls: and for brickwork, and for a reinforced concrete slab, and even for log structures and frame panel panels.

Today, for the insulation of private houses, it is the "wet" type systems that are most often used, as they are cheaper and easier to install. As a heat-insulating material in such systems, experts recommend using plates from stone wool... There are a great variety of these systems, for example, HECK, LOBA, ROCKFACADE. They all differ in the method of fastening, the type of reinforcing mesh, etc. Common to all of them is the principle of operation - fixing the insulation boards directly on the wall, reinforcing with a mesh and applying a base plaster layer, followed by coating with a finishing protective and decorative plaster layer (necessarily vapor-permeable). In addition, due to plastering works installation of such facades cannot be carried out at temperatures below + 5 ° С.

In order to avoid these problems, ventilated facades are used, in which there is an air gap between the thermal insulation layer and the outer cladding. They are often used in the construction of office and residential multi-storey buildings, but in private construction are not yet so popular.

The ventilated facades got their name due to the air gap between the protective screen and the insulation. Through this air gap, atmospheric moisture and condensation are removed from the building envelope.

The use of such facade systems is possible under various climatic conditions and with very large temperature differences. Summer solar energy reflected from the facade material, and therefore external walls do not heat up. In winter external insulation traps heat in the walls. The result is an even microclimate and reduced heating costs. However, ventilated systems, with all their advantages, can be used mainly on simple facades (for buildings with complex architecture, their use is difficult).

We insulate the foundation

When sheathing walls and roofs, one should not forget about the foundation, which also accounts for a fairly large percentage of heat loss. That is why every owner should know how to insulate the foundation and what materials can be used at the same time.

Today there is huge number methods of thermal insulation of the foundations of various buildings, and many of them can significantly save money, because if you once think about how to insulate the foundation of a house, you can safely forget about additional heating.

Everything existing ways insulation of the foundation of a private house is divided into two groups:

performed before pouring the base;
carried out with an already finished building.

When the house has already been built, it is better to insulate the foundation from the inside.

Since the winters in our country are frosty, it is customary to insulate the foundations both outside and inside. In addition, the concrete used for pouring has practically no thermal insulation. Directly during the construction of a house, materials are used for insulation, which are installed in the formwork, or non-removable shields. They are much more expensive than conventional ones, but in the end, the cost of all construction work is lower.

It is much more difficult to properly insulate the foundation of a finished private house. If the owners, wishing to save money on construction, ignored the importance of the depth of its occurrence, there are especially many difficulties, since the ground under the building will freeze harder.

In such cases, the foundation is dug in from both sides, after which insulation materials are laid.

The most common ways to insulate foundations:

earth insulation;
insulation with expanded clay;
insulation with expanded polystyrene.

The earth is an inexpensive material, therefore, it is possible to insulate the foundation with its help without significant costs. The essence of the method is that the earth is filled up to the level of the intended floor in the house. In this case, the entire foundation of the dwelling is under it.

An obvious disadvantage of earth insulation is its low thermal insulation characteristics. Nevertheless, if the foundation is buried, freezing of the house through the floor can be excluded by insulating the basement from the inside.

This method is considered traditional. Cheap and quite effective, it is very popular today. In addition, the expanded clay insulation method can be combined with earthen insulation.

Before the foundation is poured with cement, expanded clay is laid inside the formwork. Thus, both walls and floors can be insulated. The uniqueness of expanded clay lies in its porosity, which does not allow the material to pass moisture and cold, retaining heat very well. Its losses arise only because of the cement that gets between the granules. That is why expanded clay is often used for floor insulation with a shallow foundation.

Expanded polystyrene is a truly professional insulation. It is used by those who want to completely eliminate heat loss through the foundation and floor. Expanded polystyrene is sold in whole plates, but little tricks are often used to install it.

Important advice! Before fixing the slabs to the surface of the foundation of the house, waterproofing should be applied to the touch points and its side parts. Its thickness is determined by the type of foundation, its depth and thickness.

Styrofoam plates are laid from the bottom of the foundation to the level where the floor begins. The seams between them are filled with polyurethane foam.

The surface insulated with expanded polystyrene should be covered with a cladding to exclude the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation.

Internal insulation

You can insulate the foundation of a private house from the inside by simply sheathing the walls of the basement thermal insulation materials... They prevent cold penetration and prevent heat leakage. It also reduces the likelihood of condensation occurring.

When choosing an insulation material for insulation with your own hands, it is difficult to make a mistake. The insulation market is dominated by extruded polystyrene foam. You can also use polyurethane foam, which is very easily applied to all structural elements by spraying.

Insulation plates are installed on the inside of the basement walls using a special adhesive mass. But they also need additional mechanical fastening, which are plastic dowels. In principle, this is an optional stage of installation, since neither strong gusts of wind nor atmospheric precipitation affect the walls of the basement.

Each insulated wall is reinforced with a special mesh, primed and decorated.

Important! To insulate the foundation of a private house from the inside most effectively, it needs protection from moisture, which can destroy the results of even the most careful work. Also, there should be exceptional ventilation in the basement, all stagnant air should go out of the house.

Thus, you can easily insulate the foundation of a private house with your own hands, both outside and inside. The main thing is to take everything into account. professional advice so that construction work is carried out efficiently and correctly.

We insulate windows and doors

A lot of heat also goes out through the windows. The main problem areas are the perimeter of the abutment of windows and window blocks to the walls; cold air often enters through the gaps between the glass and the frame. Unfortunately, traditional windows are very leaky. Drafts are common with simple wooden frames.

If the problem of cracks in windows needs to be solved very quickly, then one of the "old-fashioned" methods will help: cotton wool and masking tape, foam insulation on an adhesive basis, silicone sealant, window putty, rubberized seal.

Of course, the most popular solution today is the replacement of old ones. window frames to new ones. It is very important to take into account your climate, if the winters are very harsh, then you should pay attention to special "winter" windows, with triple glazing, preventing heat loss.

It should be noted that in order to modern windows really protected from drafts and kept warm in the house, they must be correctly mounted.

Particular attention should be paid to the interface of the window with the walls, the thickness of the window frame, the location of the window in the plane of the wall. The fact is that in case of improper installation of the window unit, so-called "cold bridges" may arise, which promote heat transfer through the insulation. To avoid this problem, you should carefully prepare the window opening and pay special attention to insulation window slope- it is there that the greatest heat loss is possible.

An indisputable plus of this choice is that for insulation, in addition to global solutions (plastic windows), you can use temporary inexpensive alternatives - foam rubber, paper, glue.

The disadvantage is that, as a rule, the best "winter windows" are expensive.

Drafts in the home are a common "heat leak" problem. If the front door does not fit tightly to the frame, then drafts can occur in the apartment, and in the cold season, the warmth in the house is especially appreciated. And the draft that "slides" on the legs is unlikely to suit anyone. In such situations, the question arises about the compaction of both input and interior doors to improve sound insulation and insulation of the apartment.

You can quickly get rid of drafts using the following methods:

Door brush sets are mounted on lower part door leaf using self-tapping screws, adhesive tape or a clip. The brushes on the door are used to eliminate drafts, keep the room warm or cool.
Insulation with special adhesive tape, which is glued to the door and helps to keep warm.
Installation of overhead insulation on the doors, which are attached with double-sided adhesive tape.

The advantage of such a choice of insulation is that door insulation will take very little time and this can be done without much money. Unfortunately, any overlays can worsen appearance beautiful doors.

We insulate pitched roofs: attics and attics

About 20% of the heat energy is emitted through the roof. In the presence of a cold attic, heat loss may be somewhat less, since such structures create a so-called thermal cushion. In this case, the ceiling of the upper floor is insulated with heat-insulating plates. Since in roof structures most often wood, steel or aluminum is used, according to fire safety standards, the use of combustible insulation is possible only if a number of fire retardant measures are taken.

Water vapor generated in living quarters during cooking, cleaning, washing, etc., rises up and, when cooled, can form condensation in the under-roof space. Therefore, it is necessary to provide a vapor barrier layer on the inside of the insulation.

It is very important that the insulation allows water vapor to pass freely, but is not hygroscopic, that is, it does not absorb moisture from the air, because with an increase in the material's moisture content by only 5%, its thermal insulation capacity is almost halved.

Warming pitched roofs allows you to turn the attic into a residential (attic), which increases useful area housing.

Thermal insulation of attics also has its own characteristics. The attic floor loses heat more intensively than the lower floors due to the fact that only the roof separates it from the street. Therefore, to create an optimal temperature and humidity regime, careful insulation along the roof slopes is necessary.

For the insulation of attics, pitched roofs, ceilings and attic rooms it is most advisable to use light stone wool slabs (for example, LIGHT BATTS) or mats.

Conclusion

Thermal insulation of housing in the conditions of a long, frosty Russian winter becomes a paramount issue in its construction and operation.

Many essential aspects of saving home heat were left out. this work... Still, the question of how to make our home truly energy efficient has not been disclosed. The author will try to eliminate this shortcoming in the near future.

In the meantime, we will try to formulate the basic principles of competent insulation of your home.

Firstly, an effective thermal protection device saves up to 50% of the energy consumed for heating. For this reason, the advisability of a one-time investment in house insulation is beyond doubt; otherwise the owner long years you will have to heat not only your house, but also the street.
Secondly, the most ideal option is a carefully thought-out construction of a building using modern insulating materials, but no less effect will be given by competent insulation already built structure. The main rule in this case is to choose the most optimal way thermal insulation.
Thirdly, when choosing materials, one should prefer the highest quality ones that have a longer service life.
Fourthly, the main guarantee of work on the insulation of your home is the involvement of qualified specialists.
And fifthly, do not spare funds for thermal insulation. All costs will return a hundredfold - warmth and comfort in the house, energy savings, and extension of the service life of structures.