How to prepare door openings to the installation of doors. Preparation of the doorway to the installation of the interior door. The procedure for preparing and hanging the door canvase

More recently, the installation of interroom doors with their own hands was a rather difficult task and demanded serious experience and skills from man. Now everything has become much easier, having a good tool and knowing the order of the installation of interroom doors, any home master in a sentence per day to finish work. Next, we will share step by step, how to correctly install the interroom door in two ways.

Options are crafts for interior doors.

Before putting the interroom door, you need to choose it first. When choosing, there are 2 main criteria - this is the size of the design and material from which the doors and box are actually made.

Selection of material

It is not so important to install an interroom door in a wooden house or in the urban high-rise building room, the design should be not only beautiful, but also reliable, and this is primarily depends on the material.

Fiberboard is perhaps the most common option. The design is a hollow box on both sides closed with thin sheets of fiberboard and based on a frame of wooden bars.

With the installation of such a door, it is not worth a hurry, it is certainly light and cheap, and it can look quite well, but with reliability, not everything is in order, such a design can be born even with a fist, plus the likelihood that in a couple of years it will begin to settle down.

MDF is a golden middle between cheap fiberboard and a good wooden design. The array is dense, durable, and most importantly is completely environmentally friendly. Independent installation of interior laminated canvases from MDF at home is a great output, if there are no funds on the installers, and I want a beautiful door.

The canvas from the MDF should be qualitatively laminated then it will not be visually different from the wooden.

Natural tree - traditionally it is believed that the installation of wooden doors is the best option, but it is incorrect, here you need to look at the quality and firm manufacturer. Believe me, sometimes it is better to insert interior doors from good MDF laminate, rather than take crude pine, which in six months will lead.

When buying wooden canvases, you need to carefully evaluate the quality of the forest.

If you decide to change interior doors and you have a high-quality wooden logka, then it is not necessary to touch it, you can replace only the cloth. In this case, the technology of the installation of interroom doors will be an order easier.

GOST, admission and obscure questions

The size of the doorway for installation is perhaps the most important of the initial parameters. We still have all such designs on Soviet Ghosts, by the way, the Chinese are also focused on these sizes, but in Europe, despite the allegedly single standard, many countries do in their own way.

So if we have a minimum width of the web begins from 600 mm and then with a step of 100 mm, it reaches 900 mm, then France releases the canvas ranging from 690 mm, but the graduation also goes in increments of 100 mm.

Germany, Spain and Italy, as well as all countries of the former social camp, in this respect are oriented practically on the same standards as our manufacturers.

Interior doors have clear standards that need to be checked before independently install the interroom door.

As for the tolerances, the gap between the box and the band itself is left on top and above. Between the floor and the web according to the rules you need to do at least 20 mm. This gap is needed for normal ventilation in the apartment.

Around the perimeter of the box in block buildings you can leave any gap, up to a few millimeters, the main thing that the box becomes exactly, but if we cut the door in the wooden house with your own hands, then tolerance install at least 15 mm, it is needed in case the house will give Shrink.

When the interroom door is selected. Installation is already the last stage, before you need to get acquainted with the description, because the price may be indicated depending on the configuration, there are 3 options here:

1. Only the door canvas for sale - this option is good if the door is planned to install on the old box;
2. The cloth is sold along with the box, but the box goes in a disassembled form, here even before installing the interroom door will have to trim in size and assemble the box that in most cases even good;
3. Fully assembled blocks with a finished box, canvas, locks and loops are installed only if the preparation of the opening is not required. There is enough to cut the racks in height and install the interroom door itself.

Do not forget that there is little only to establish interior doors in the opening, the complete installation of the interior door provides for the arrangement of the platbands, the gooders (if necessary) and fittings, so they are also desirable to take immediately, otherwise it may not come down.

The installation of interroom doors will not be complete without platform and accessories.

There is another important question - when to install interroom doors when repairing? So, the installation instructions for the installation of interroom doors says that such structures are mounted at the very end of the repair, after decoration of the walls, gender and ceiling, but before installing floor plinths.

Two editing options

With the tolerances with dimensions and other sharp questions figured out, now it's time to find out how to install the interroom door itself. But to collect and install the design, we need a tool.

A few words about the instrument and related material

To install interroom doors, we need:

• Wooden hacksaw, but ideally it is better to have a permeable saw, it does not leave chips, plus there can be an accurate angle of cut;
• To place openings between the box and the wall, the wedges are needed;
• A hammer;
• Chisel;
• Screwdriver;
• Electric drill;
• Plumb;
• Level;
• Pencil;
• Roulette.

Install the interroom door yourself without a good tool is not real.

Important! The safety regulations are categorically forbidden to cut a tree with the help of a grinder. If you are expensive your health, do not even think about it.

From the auxiliary materials to install doors, you will need:

• Mounting foam;
• Malyary Scotch;
• Self-sized screws and sections;
• Anchor bolts with dowels.

Preparation of opening

Ideally, before putting the interroom door of the edge of the walls, if not plastering, then at least to align cement-sandy solution.

But in real conditions, the preparation of the doorway to install the interior door ends on the fit of the sizes under the box, because then the non-locking slots will be stupid and closed with platbands, so it makes no sense to make a special beauty.

Door opening before installing the box is preferably aligned.

There is one important point here: often the installation of a double interior door requires an expansion of the opening, so when it comes to simpleness, they can be "repainted" as you think. But if the wall is carrier, then a slight extension is allowed no more than 5 to 7 cm, otherwise there may be problems with the wall and with the law.

Build Koroba

The box for the door can be collected in two ways - this is with a trimming of the angle of the upper strip under 45º and docking the planks at right angles. Both ways are good, but it is believed that the angular docking under 45 ° is defined more elegant.

A really high-quality angular trimming can be done only with the help of a cross, if you assure you that the usual plastic stub is suitable for this, do not believe it, you can spoil the box.

The first vertical racks are cut off under 45º, after which you can move to the upper horizontal strip. In order to postpone 3 mm conveniently use a piece of fiberboard as a template.

We measure the gap relative to the top plank template.

• You put the top bar cut on one side and make it up in a pattern of a template;
• Further go to the opposite side of the door and attaching the same template mark the cut line.

Upper strip trimming at an angle with ending.

Now we decide on the floor ready, trimbed boxes of the box and once again control the dimensions.

So it looks like a door box Cropped at an angle.

• The box is bonded in stages. First you need to tightly connect the strips with each other as they should be;
• The boxes of the box when screwing the self-tapping screws can crack so that this does not happen before you collect, we need to drill the channels under the self-tapping screw. This is done by a 2.5 mm drill (with a self-tapping screw 3.5 mm);

Preparation for bonding.

• Now you can screw the screws into the ends of the box on both sides, and on each side of the angle should be 2 self-pressing.

There is a small nuance here, the vertical bar of the box to which the loops will be completely attached to delay not necessary, we still have to shoot it.

Fixation of the box with trimming at an angle.

If there is no passing saw in your arsenal, then the box strips are better to fix at a right angle. Perhaps it is not so aesthetically, but the step-by-step instruction will be somewhat simpler.

We start with fitting the upper cross, we will cut it between two side racks. Some craftsmen are mounted over the side racks, there is no special difference, here it is already comfortable.

On the perimeter of the box, we have a side of a side, which lies the door leaf when closing. To embed the upper crossing, we need to remove this side on the side racks. To do this, we apply the upper crossbar to the rack, place and cutting the facet with a hacksaw, clean the place to be installed.

Now we can only paste the top bar between the two side racks, depart the holes for a pair of screws and consolidate the inserted bar with self-draws.

If you decide to put the bar from above on the rack, then there it will be necessary to cut the inner side on the upper bar, and then drill and drive the screws from above, as shown in the diagram below.

Montage with your hands the plank supplied from above.

Installation loops and handles

For the door installing loops is one of the most important stages. In principle, cut the lock and hang the loops and after installing the box in the opening, but if you mount the doors on your own (without helpers), then it is better to do right away.

The loops are overhead and counted. It is easier to work with overhead butterfly loops, since you don't need to cut anything in the doorway and box, so we will begin with them.

A small advice: if the door should open on the right side, then the loops insert the right, respectively, for the left-sided opening, the loops must be attached to the left rack.

Installation of loops begins with marking on the canvas itself. According to the rules, the distance from the top or bottom point of the canvas to the loop must be 200 - 250 mm. You can measure the roulette, as in the photo below, if the roulette was not at hand, then use the loop themselves, there is a standard size 100 mm.

We make marking for the installation of loops.

Do not confuse: Little (internal) part of the butterfly loop is attached to the doorway, and large, to the box rack. Before screwing off the screws, it is necessary to drill holes, only after that the screws are drunk.

All loops have sweepage under the head of the screws, so watch these sweeps "watched" up. If the loops are installed on the contrary, the heads of the screws will remain over the loops, respectively, the doors will not close to the end.

We drill holes under the butterfly loop.

The box we have practically assembled, now put it on the floor and put inside the door canvas. As you remember around the perimeter of the canvas, we must have 3 mm, so immediately insert as much self-made templates from the fiberboard as much as possible (3 mm thick) between the box and the blade.

One piece of the loop is screwed to the canvas to fasten the second part of the loop to the box. We make a mark on the box. Further unscrew the screws fixing the carrier vertical bar and screw the penetration of the loops to it. After that, we return the box to the place the box and fix it finally.

We screw the hinges to the vertical box stand.

An independent installation of secret loops is not much more complicated by the method described above. The difference lies in the fact that in the doorway and box you need to cut the grooves under the loop. This is done with the help of a queen, chisels and knife.

Cut the grooves under the installation of hidden loops

As for the installation of the door handle, it is possible to read about this in detail, as well as view on the video in this article. And do not forget that the loops should be lubricated, you can find out about the rules of lubrication.

Methods for installing interroom doors in a wall opening exist different, it all depends on the specific conditions. Then we consider the simplest and most popular options.

Method No. 1. Classic

At the moment, we have a box racks must be curved in the height of the opening, the loop and the lock are embedded, the door is closed, and templates with a thickness of 3 mm are inserted between the blade and box.

When the door block is inserted into the opening, the first thing around the perimeter is driven by wooden or plastic wedges, they will hold the unit to the final consolidation.

Classic installation scheme for interroom doors with wedges.

Fixation is a rather responsible moment, here we exhibit the block vertically and horizontally. Keep in mind: the wall is not always strictly vertical, so check the box with a plumb.

The vertical is better to check on the plumb.

In order for the door block from a strong push, it should be fastened to firmly fix with anchor bolts or at least long self-draws. We recommend using anchor bolts with a thickness of 6 - 8 mm.

The principle is simple:

• Drink in the box through a hole and slightly feed into the wall;
• Remove the door block and at the feeding points drill holes under the dowel;
• Put the box in place and lock the anchors. The box must become clearly in terms of the level, since before that we all have already taken away.

If you fix the box with long screws, then they are installed throughout the perimeter with an interval of half a meter, but the hats of self-tapping screws need to somehow hide. You can close them with a decorative bar or plastic lining.

Anchor bolts The thing is powerful and for fixing the box, there are enough 3 points - two points under the loop and one below the locking overlay. In the complex with the mounting foam, this is sufficient.

Now fill in the perimeter of the box by mounting foam. Moving from the bottom up, the foam must be poisoned without fanatism, because when it can squeeze the door box.

Plus, at the time of strangling the foam, the door block should be assembled and three millimeter templates around the perimeter must be inserted, it will protect the block of deformation.

Remember: Only on the "naked" foam (without self-tapping screws or anchors), the door block cannot be attached.

Method No. 2. Metal suspensions

If you do not fit the fastening of the box on self-drawing or anchors, the same can be done using metal suspensions. These suspensions are used for mounting frames for plasterboard.

Use of suspensions to fix the door box.

Technology similar:

1. Collect the box;
2. Insert the box in the opening and align in terms of level;
3. Lock the box with wedges in the opening;

1. Bend the wings of the walls on the wall;
2. Mark the entrance places of the dowel-nail and drill holes for them;
3. Attach suspension wings to the walls of a dowel-nail;
4. Pour foam and wait until it freezes.

The size of the box for two-dimensional interroom doors is twice as large, respectively, more likely to extrude the racks and crossbars by mounting foam, so here the installation on the suspension is suitable optimally.

Fixing the box for double doors on the suspensions.

Output

Both the above method are tested in practice and work perfectly. The same craftsmen who wish to establish interroom sliding doors, we have prepared step-by-step instructions.

Installing interior doors are not so difficult as it seems.

During construction and apartment repairs, it is often necessary to replace interroom doors. Oddly enough, but this pretty simple procedure causes many questions. In order for the purchase of the door block does not turn to the owner of housing by a nervous disorder, you need to comply with certain rules related to the generally accepted installation standards. After reading the question more, everyone will be able to avoid mistakes when buying and installing doors.

What is the doorway

The through hole in the wall or partition, designed to pass and install the doors, is called the doorway. As a rule, the opening has a rectangle shape. Although sometimes there are square, arched and even rounded loops.

Photo Gallery: Types of Door Operas

Arched doorway with backlit will decorate any interior The doorway in the form of the arch visually expands the passage to the nearby room. Classic doorway has a rectangular shape The combination of the doorway with a shelf serves as a good solution for zoning space

In any house and apartment there are at least three (entrance, in the kitchen and in the bathroom) doors. The maximum number of them is limited only by the size of the residential space and the number of rooms. However, there are noise without doors. Curtains, curtains, curtains can hang in them, but they are more often free. Sometimes the discovery is overlapped with a sliding or sliding door.

In construction and repair practice there are two options for installing doors:

• selection of the door block under the existing way;
• fitting the doorway under the purchased door.

The first option is always preferable, since in this case, long and time-consuming processes associated with cement works are excluded. Fortunately for consumers, developers and doors manufacturers have long taken a single standard for doors and doorways. Thanks to this, you can always choose the finished door with dimensions suitable under the standard doorway.

Standard dimensions of the doorway

The overwhelming mass of interior doors is made in accordance with GOST 6629-88. This document regulates the dimensions of the door blocks used in housing construction, and is called "Domestic wooden doors for residential and public buildings." Since today the variety of doors species is extremely large, many experts note that the document is already outdated. However, manufacturers adhere to regulatory standards.

According to GOST 6629-88, the door canvases have two sizes in height:

• 2300 mm;
• 2000 mm.

The width of the doors is determined in the following range:

• 600 mm;
• 700 mm;
• 800 mm;
• 900 mm;
• 1100 mm.

The apartments use interroom doors with a width of 0.6-0.8 m, entrance doors - 0.9 m and double sash with a total width of 1.1 m. In the storage rooms and other utility rooms, small doors with a width of 60 cm are installed. Bath and toilet - 70 cm, kitchen - 80 cm.

Door box sizes may be different depending on the material and model of the door block.

When building typical apartment buildings to this day, the dimensions of the doorways are laid based on the specified GOST. In private construction, other options are possible, but here the majority of developers adhere to the above standards.

Rules for measuring

To accurately display the dimensions of the installation opening in the wall, three measurements are made - in height, width and depth. Professional measurers always draw a sketch that reflects the shape of the face, its dimensions and other features (for example, the material of the wall, the presence of adjacent angles, etc.) This is necessary not only for the correct selection of the door block in size, but also to understand the installation method. In the work of a wooden wall or partition, fixation is made by self-drawing, in a concrete or brick wall - anchor fastener. For the plasterboard partition, a special installation method is provided. Plastic doors are installed on special brackets.

Doorway is measured by three directions - height, width and depth

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the condition of the floor and walls. Typically, the doors are calculated and installed after the finishing of the wall plane. But measurements can be made before, for example, if the door is ordered in advance. It is important to provide all factors. Suppose the wall is not yet plastered, which means that in the future its thickness will increase by 1-1.5 cm on each side. If you order the door block without taking into account this thickening, the frame will not stand in the doorway and in the end you will have to redo it either or the wall.

The same applies to gender. Experienced measurers come only when the floor is fully prepared, including the final finish (tile, linoleum, laminate, etc.). However, if the door is made by an individual order, and the calculation of its dimensions is made in advance, when determining the height of the door block, amendment is made that the floor level will change.

If you set a standard door frame during construction and redevelopment, the dimensions of the side are adjusted for one or another size.

Today, so-called hidden doors are very popular, the sizes of which can be non-standard. Often, this door is made from the floor to the ceiling. In this case, when determining vertical dimensions, the fact that the suspended structures (tensioning, rush or drywall) reduce the ceiling level by 10-15 cm.

Hidden doors in the entire height of the room are installed in a specially prepared

If you need to replace one door to another, the task is simplified. You need to accurately measure the three main parameters of the door loop - width, height and depth. But this can be done only after dismantling the old door or at least after removing the platbands.

Measurements are made by a construction tape measure or another accurate instrument, such as a laser line. Indications are recorded in millimeters.

Professional laser roulette is used to quickly and accurately determine the required sizes.

Width

The width of the Owl is the distance between the side (vertical) surfaces of the hole in the wall. Measurements are made in three points - the upper, bottom and in the middle, if they are the same, it means that the opening of the right, rectangular shape. If there are more than 10 mm discrepancies, it should be noted in the drawing.

If the discrepancy in measurements is more than 10 mm, the minimum size takes the basis

Height

The height is the distance between the "clean" floor and the upper horizontal crossbar. It is measured on both sides (on the right and left side). Ideally, the testimony should coincide with the error of no more than 1 cm.

When measuring the height, the proof takes into account that it should not exceed the size of the canvas by more than 50-60 mm

Thickness

This is actually the thickness of the wall. For the work, the term "depth" is used more often. It is important to understand that the thickness of the door frame cannot exceed the depth of the day. But maybe (and should) be less. In this case, the discrepancy is compensated by goodwill, the width of which is calculated in order to save material in advance.

Features of the doorway measurement depending on the door design

All doors installed in residential buildings are divided into two types:

• swing (on loop);
• sliding (with top suspension or guide by floor).

Depending on the design, various requirements for the preparation of the door loan are presented.

Swing doors are attached directly inside the hole in the wall. Therefore, it is important to observe the exact dimensions of the day. According to modern standards, the distance between the door frame and the walls should be within 2.5-3 cm throughout the perimeter (except for the threshold).

Another 30 years ago, when polyurethane foam was not yet used in construction, the technological gap between the door block and the wall was filled with cement mortar. Requirements for the magnitude of the gap were different. It was recommended to leave a slot of a minimum of 50 mm so that the solution easily went into it. Such doors were well stood the first 3-5 years, after which the solution began to crumble, and the door frame "go to the walker". The door constantly had to be repaired at certain intervals. The mounting foam eliminated these disadvantages, so now there is a gap of 25-30 mm between the frame and the wall.

In the case of sliding doors, everything else. The suspension mechanism is installed on the wall, and the door leaf simply covers the disc. Accordingly, the requirements for the size of the day are not so hard - the main thing is that the magnitude of the hole in the wall does not exceed the size of the door flap. The form and quality of finishing is greater. If the edges of the edge are closed by platbands and bad things in the swinging doors, then in the sliding wall remains in sight. Therefore, it is important to withstand the correct shape and the angles of the hole in the wall.

The discovery of sliding doors is framed by platbands and bad

Facing the inside of the openness can be two types:

• stucco (continued wall decoration);
• decorative panels from DVP, MDF or plastic.

The finishing of plaster (or plasterboard) is performed before measuring the dimensions of the work. The panels are installed after mounting the door, but when measurements need to take into account the thickness of the chalkboard.

Video: How to measure the opening of the door under the door

Preparation of the Outline for the installation of interroom doors

In order to bring the ability to comply with the standard, the following materials will be needed:

Tools will also be required:

There are several mandatory doorways that need to be performed before measurements.

How to reduce or expand the doorway

Sometimes it is necessary to increase or decrease. As a rule, the changes are needed in cases where the door to the old place is installed with other sizes.

To increase the dimensions of the doorway, the perforator is used. The order of work is as follows:

1. First make marking. On the wall, the pencil or marker draws new borders of the day.
2. Then neatly hollow out the wall to the desired outlines. If the dimensions change to a small amount, you can do without a perforator, rocking concrete or masonry with a chisel and hammer. Sometimes the inner walls are folded from foam blocks. In this case, the task is simplified - the blocks are easily sawing with a special hacksaw with a large tooth and a win-attack.

   Expansion of the door loop in a concrete or brick wall produce a perforator with a special nozzle

3. After that, the inner surface of the outflow is plastered. For this, cement mortar is breed. The craftsman pounce it on the wall and align the spatula.

   Stucco alignment is made by rule, a wide spatula or a flat wooden slaughter

When the walls are dlying, it is necessary to observe precautions - use protective glasses and a respirator that protects the respiratory organs from entering a large number of construction dust.

In panel houses, isolated from carrying structures, hammer the wall by the perforator is categorically prohibited.The exception is only interior partitions that do not carry loads. But only a specialist can determine it.

The violation of this restriction may entail a violation of the rigidity of the structure as a whole. For example, there are cases where the walls of the wall at one end of the house leads to the cracking of the double-glazed windows at the other end. This suggests that deformation is transmitted throughout the building.

Reducing the size of the movement is carried out in different ways depending on the material of the wall.

1. Use brickwork. Separate the construction blocks of the desired dimensions and on cement mortar lay out the wall to the specified marks. In practice, the change most often concerns the width of the day, the height remains unchanged. But if the height is still needed to reduce, then for this we use ready-made removal reinforced concrete blocks or wooden crossbars. They are installed on bricks or deepen into the wall at a distance of at least 10-15 cm. On each side.

   Reducing the proof is carried out using a metal formwork and brick masonry

2. Using drywall. For this, the framework of metal profiles is assembled and the drying plates are coated with one or two layers. Such an extension of pr.namer only for sliding doors. Swing doors to stick on a thin layer of "dry plaster" will not be able.

   Using the design of drywall is installed by the doorway of the desired size

3. With wooden bars. This option is applicable for houses of wood lumber. To do this, it is necessary to choose a bar of the same thickness as the wall, and firmly fix it on long screws. If one bar is not enough, it is allowed to use several boards, the thickness of which in the amount will give the desired size. Mounting wood blocks are needed very carefully, because they will bear the entire load from the door frame and the canvas.

Video: Changing the dimensions of the doorway

With an independent measurement of the dimensions of the doorway, you need limit accuracy and accuracy. Errors are poured into additional financial losses. But if there is still no confidence in your abilities, it is better to call the measurer from the company that supplies the door. Today, most firms provide this service for free.

The final stage of any overhaul in the apartment is replacing interroom doors. Interior doors are usually an order of magnitude cheaper input, but to update the interior or a complete design change without their replacement can not do. Change them most often comprehensively, even if we are talking about a small one-two-bedroom apartment.

Technology installation of interroom doors. Video

Depending on what material do the doors and what kind of design they have, the installation technology will depend. Since the question arose about replacing interroom doors, the choice between the types of structures will be inevitable. The correct interroom door can save space in the apartment, if you give preference not to simple single-sided swing doors, and sliding, you can also consider the option of installing the door of the harmonica.

The simplest design without glasses for interior doors is made of a set of canvas. Most often, the canvas are made of coniferous wood and almost all the economy doors are lined with a felt plate. Fiberboard can be both profiled and simple, depending on the price category. The cheapest doors have a textured surface under painting, and models are more expensive.

Depending on the price category, it can be equipped with a door frame, loops and fittings. But most often, even in standard apartments of panel houses, it is necessary to customize the door under the box for a long time, because the nominal dimensions are not always followed, which is why before starting the installation door, you need to prepare the opening.

Preparation of facilities for installation

The floor should already bear the floor, and the walls are prepared for the finishing finish, they must be plastered or past. The door box should be installed after all wet finishing works were performed, otherwise it may be a story, turn, especially at the bottom, which can deliver extra problems.

The door frame can be sold along with the door cloth, and maybe separately. In the case when the box is bought separately, it is very important to pay attention to the thickness of the door leaf and the status of the racks from which the box will be collected. The curvature and cracks are not allowed, it is also undesirable for bitch on the door frame elements.

Good loops and necessary tools

It is impossible to bypass the loop. Despite the fact that the loops on interior doors do not carry a special load, it is better to choose the models detachable and more expensive. Savings on the loops will further add trouble, and if the door is relatively heavy, it is better to install not two, but three loops. As a rule, those self-tapping screws that are sold complete with hinges are not suitable anywhere. They are disposable and made of low-quality steel. It is better to immediately replace them with proven good screws of a suitable configuration.

To install interroom doors with their own hands, the minimum set of tools will be required:

• construction level;
• drill or screwdriver;
• roulette, ruler, square, marker;
• assembly construction foam;
• a set of a chisel or an electric tool that replaces them;
• fantasy saw or stubble with a hand saw on a tree;
• planer or mill.

The installation of the door block begins with the markup of the racks of the box. The inner size of the box under the door should be 3-4 mm more than the size of the door itself, and the distance from the lower edge of the door to the floor should be at least 10 mm. The rack is placed, after which it is diverted at an angle of 45 degrees by a tracing saw and a hand-hacksaw on a tree. The assembly scheme is shown in the figure - the assembly uses self-tapping screws or wooden pins. The top bar of the door frame is also cut down the same principle - from the side of the lock and from the side of the loops, the gaps must be 4-5 mm.

It is more convenient to cut the loops and the castle when the box and the door are still in hand, so first you need to measure 20 cm on top and 21 from the bottom of the door and along the inside of the rack on which the loops will be mounted. The loop is attached to two self-pressing temporarily on the door frame, after which the contour of the pencil is burned. The loop can be removed and with the help of the chisel, perform a recess in the rack. The depth should be such that the loop is completely hiding in thickness.

It remains only to collect the door frame and consolidate it in the doorway. As a rule, interior doors are strengthened with mounting foam, but it is desirable to fix the box with large self-drawing or anchors to the wall. The box is set strictly by level and is recorded temporarily with a piece of drywall, foam plaster, boards, after which the free space is filled with foam.

The screws for fixing the box to the wall is best located on the hinge sites and on the pad to fix the lock. So the screws will not be visible, and three points are enough for durable attachment. You can hang the door and gate the space between the box and the wall. After checking the performance of the design, the box is closed by platbands that can be mounted on glue or thin nails.

The design is installed, it remains only to lubricate the loop and solve which lock will be necessary for the door. Successful to all repairs!

In this article we will tell, how to independently install the interroom door without the use of a specialized professional tool, such as a cutter and a tracing saw. Of course, using these tools, you can make a much higher quality and fast installation, but it is advisable to acquire expensive equipment only for long-term regular work. With the choice of the tool, each is determined independently, one thing remains unquestionable - before installing the door, it is necessary to purchase it first, and more precisely - to choose (see).

An independent installation of the interior door is a complex qualified operation. To fulfill the correct and high-quality installation - be extremely attentive. The price of any smallest error is extremely high, before doing anything - - check all the calculations several times.

Preparation for installing interroom doors

The first thing you need to do before proceeding to install the door, regardless of whether you install it for yourself, or you fulfill the order - unpack and carefully inspect the canvas, box, platbands, i.e. everything that you have to use. If the work is performed for yourself, the reasons for the preliminary inspection are obvious - claims to the seller (manufacturer) after the start of installation the door is no longer presented. If, you perform installation by order of the client, the inspection is all the more mandatory - demonstrating the customer to marriage even before the installation starts, you can avoid accusations of incompetence.

Important: When unpacking with the use of a knife, be extremely neatly producing an incision of packaging material - do not damage the front parts of the elements.

So, the door canvas and related materials are unpacked and inspected. Do not hurry immediately with enthusiasm to work for work - this is the main mistake of novice masters. Installation of the door is one of the most responsible types of finishing works, which means that having made a mistake at one of the steps - fix it, without loss of quality, is almost impossible. For this reason, it is necessary to take into account all the features associated with the geometry of the premises, the operation of the door and its design, as well as those complications that may arise in the installation process. View the doorway, make sure the doorway will be able to place the way you need. Check the floor level - whether the door will touch it with the bottom edge when opening (closing). If the floor is twisted - you may have to change the direction of opening the door, leave a greater clearance from the bottom, or (in exceptional cases) to install the door at a low angle.

Do not forget that the platbands must completely lie down to the box, without leaving the gaps, you may have to adjust the location of the box, and do not forget that the box should be installed strictly vertically, without the slightest deviation. Check immediately - will, after installation, the platband will fall in full size (relevant for angular doorways), or you will have to cut it along that it looks pretty nonethetically. Determine with measurements - is it possible to place the doorway so that the platbands get up without trimming. The best solution is to eliminate such remittons "Soviet" layouts at the stage of basic finish (dismantling and erection of partitions).

Immediately before the start of work, of course, it is necessary to clear and prepare a workplace (see Preparation of the workplace). Before installing the door box, if necessary, clean the doorway should be performed - knocked down the old plaster, cut out sticking rods of reinforcement, nails, etc. (see), To do this, use with a spatula in the "Strike without rotation" mode and, Wide known as "Bulgarian" with a cutting disc on metal.

Assembling door box

So, preparatory work is completed. Now you need to assemble the door box. Take the roulette and make measurements of the door leaf.

To close the door freely, add 4-6 mm to the resulting width (if the material of the canvas is high-quality, and the humidity in the room is not large - you can leave the minimum clearance) to the length, depending on the curvature of the floor, add 6-12 mm. The resulting dimensions with a simple pencil transfer to the box planks, while consider that, without having an end saw, you can cut off the box of the box only once, to make the size fit will be extremely problematic. You can adjust the vertical door placement, if necessary, adjust, but horizontal accommodation, how easy it is to guess, not to change, so if you doubt the width of the side gaps, add another 1-2 mm to the magnitude of the top plank, but not too much - Large gaps look extremely inestore.

Important: Also, be sure to add two thickness of the box to the length of the top plank, since the upper bar will block the side. Do not forget to sign details for the convenience of assembly.

Now carefully cut off the box of the box with ordinary hacksaw or.

Important: If you have already made an inspection of the boxes, then, for sure, noticed that the edges of these planks in some places have chips and other damage. Try to place the planks in such a way that it is slightly and damaged parts that are cut off. Ideally, the paved parts of the slats are located below the door box and pressed to the floor, and the so-called "factory" level is located on top of the joint.

In our case, the staples of the door box have rounded edges, so it is necessary to combine them to align them or perform the planks under 45 degrees, or to make one of the planes, in this case, the top, recess, repeating this rounded circuit. In our example, the door box does not have a lower plank, if in your case it is - the same operations spend it with it.

When executing a penal saw, the trigger cross section configuration does not matter, everything is aligned perfectly, it is a professional and fast way, however, if the door installation is not your specialization, acquire this expensive tool, as noted earlier, is not entirely profitable. In our example, we will use the second method, and we will make excuses using an electroltrol bike, it is inexpensive and, moreover, this is a universal tool that will be useful to you when solving a wide range of finishing tasks. Simple pencil is placed the contour was rented.

Then, remove the insulation and neatly perform the cuts strictly along the line, while directing the jigsaw smoothly and without jerks.

IMPORTANT: To avoid chips, the cut is always performed from the front side (in the drawing, the jigscription will be turned out exclusively for clarity).

Sometimes, depending on the specific model, the support metal part of the electrolybiz may scratch or leave dark stripes on the material cut. To avoid this, when you fulfill the responsible work, it can be simply planeded by several stripes of painting scotch. Please note that the cut is performed not until the very end of the plank, later you will understand - for what reason.

After performing the cut, with the help of the chisels, we remove the extra parts of the bar, for this we put the chisel to the end and, slightly hitting it with a hammer, we chop up too much. Then the same chisel gently cleaned the new surface of the plank, if they were removed enough - we repeat the procedure. The new surface of the plank should be in the same plane as its main part, so the edges of the side planks of the box will be close to the top.

Telescopic platbands are attached strictly in the grooves of the box of the box at some distance from its edge, which does not close and it remains in sight, it is in order to make the slots of the slot assemblies that are not visible on the edge of the door box. We also produced incomplete cut. If you use a regular platband, it, unlike the telescopic, can be fixed with almost the very edge of the box. In this case, you can perform rear to the edge of the plank.

We combine the edges of the door box slats, align them and fasten with self-draws, pre-searched the slap by the drill with a small diameter, if this is not done - when twisting the screws can split the bar when twisting. For drilling and twisting self-tapping, in our example, used, universal and inexpensive tool.

Marking and installation of door loops

The door box is assembled, now it is necessary to check - how accurate your assembly and, if necessary, adjust it. But, before that, the loops should be shown on the door leaf - so it will later be easier to mark the markup under the loop on the box. At first, as it should, secure the door of the door in such a way that you can conveniently perform work on its side end, you can drink the door to the edge of the wall, the table, etc., the main thing is that the consolidation is reliable.

Now in the doorway it is necessary to make removing for loops. The distance from the edge of the door canvas until the start of the loop is usually: 150 - 200 mm for the upper loops and 200 - 300 mm for the lower. Deciding with the distance to the loops, with the help of a roulette, perform the appropriate measurements, and tick the edge of the edge of the upper and lower loop notch. Then, take the loop and, applying it to the door to the door so that its side edge coincides with the border of the loop notch, applied earlier, and the lower edge (where both parts of the loop are connected) in one plane with the front surface of the door canvase. By placing a loop in this way, circle its contour with a pencil. In the same way, mark the outline of the second loop. It is very important not to be mistaken when installing loops. Therefore, it is better to immediately collect a loop, connecting both of its half, open and in this form try on the canvase. Then close the loop, imagine - how your door will open and close, make sure that everything is done correctly and, only after that, be thrown for the tool.

Take the chisel and slightly shift the contour, keeping the blade, as shown in the figure, the straight side to the removed part - so as not to damage the edge of the excavation should be cutting carefully, slightly hitting the chisel. To solve this task, you can also use a building knife.

Using the chisel, make samples under the loop, directing the blade at a slight angle to the end of the canvas, then clean the recess to the chisel or a building knife.

Insert the loop into the recess, previously disassembled it, the top edge of the loop should be located in the same plane with the surface of the canvas, or hardly appear for it. If the loop acts strongly - you should deepen the recess of the chisel, if the loop is too recessed at the door - to put a piece of paper under it, in which the loops were packed, you can also use chips, cardboard, etc. When the loops are placed in the desired way - screw Their "temporary" small self-draws, it is enough to use two self-pressing on the loop, so you, after installing the door canvase in the box, if necessary, you can correct the position of the loop using the remaining screws.

At this stage, the insertion on the door of the lock is possible, if it has already been purchased, this method has both pros and cons, but someone may prefer this option, in this example the lock is crashed already into the installed door. (cm. ).

Put the assembled door box on the floor, then reappeat the retractable pieces of the loops to the shut-off on the doorway and gently lower the door to the box, as if closing it if someone helps you in this - wonderful. Before that, do not forget to carefully remove the transport plastic or wooden legs from the lower edge of the door canvase.

The installation of the door is better to produce together - it minimizes the risk to damage the door itself, or the surrounding interior when it moves it, because the doors are set, as a rule, after performing the main part of the finishing work. Press the canvas tightly to the box with the screw loop, and insert two toothpicks, matches, or a pair of tile wedges in the top between the blast and bar, or a pair of tiled wedges so that a uniform gap of about 2 mm remains. With the opposite loop, a small gap (2-4 mm) should remain with the opposite door loop, from the edge of the door to the edge of the boxes, the distance should be 4-10 mm. If all the gaps are observed, and the build quality suits you - you can proceed to the markup of the loops on the box. Spend a pencil on the upper edge of the box of the box, marking the edge line on the side surface of the loop, then mark the lower and upper edges of the loops on the bar.

Remove the door leaf, disassemble the loops, and make notches in the door box bar, similar to how it was described earlier, then, in the same way, screw the response parts of the loop "temporary" screws.

Preparation of the door box to installation

You can start installing the box in the doorway, but, first, you should decide on the attachment method.

Important: When installing door boxes, it is necessary to use rigid fasteners - the mounting foam is used as an insulating material and an additional (but not the main one) fastening. The box, fixed only with the help of foam or adhesive compositions after a while deforming, and the door will stop normally closed.

The mount is carried out with screws directly to the support (side) sides of the doorway through the holes, drilled in advance in the box, it is also possible to fasten the box using metal corners to the lateral part of the opening (the so-called "invisible mount"). In our example, the first fastening method is used. Most often, three fastening points are used on each side, on top of the same box is optionally, but if the box of the box is not sufficiently rigid, it can be placed one or two additional fastening points. Shoots are placed strictly symmetrically on both sides. You can arrange two of them (on one side of the box) under the loops, thus closing them, the average screw from the opposite side, while placed under the retold plate of the castle, which also masks it, in general, it may be a little moretheat However, the three fasteners still remain in front of the form, in addition, the final adjustment of the position of the door box is better to produce with the already installed door, in order to ensure the best quality of the installation, if the screws will be under the hinges - this will not be possible.

In our example, medium screws will be located slightly above the castle's response plate, the extreme, just below the loops, this will easily adjust the location of the box at any stage of the installation. Since the door box plank is quite tough - it is additionally fixing it is not necessary. Approximately deciding with the location of the reference points, you need to decide and with the fact that the type of screws should be used. In the event that the doorway is located in the brick, or a concrete wall for mounting the door box are used screws with plastic dowels, which are mounted into the holes, dried in advance with a perforator or shock drill. If the openness is laid out of the puzzle plates, or the reference side of the opening is made of a wooden bar (aluminum profile, enhanced by the timber), screws are used with a large step of thread (on wood), they are tightened directly into the material. In our case, the opening is located in the wall of the puzzle plates, in their end holes, we died in advance on the gypsum mixture six segments of a wooden bar (20 * 20), in which the screws will be spinning.

Since the opening is always significantly wider than the door box - for its reliable fixing from one (or on both) sides between the box of the box and the edge of the doorway, the struts are inserted, which is easy to make from the remains of a bar, rail, rail boxes, etc. To determine the size of the self-samples, take the previously assembled door of the door and, by placing it in the opening, position it in the desired way: if the depth of your doorway is much more than the width of the box, and you use dotor, the edge of the door opening side is installed in the same plane with the wall - Here you install the platband, on the other hand, it will be installed first, and then the platband. In our example, good products were not used, and the box was installed at a uniform distance from both planes of the walls. Regarding horizontal placement - try to place a loop supporting side of the door box as close to the edge of the opening. Undoubtedly, the best option is to align the edges of the doorway in terms of the installation of perforated corners, this is, of course, a very laborious process, but at the door installation stage, you will feel all the advantages of this technique. In the considered example, the opening was performed in this way, so the side with the loops is fixed close to the smooth edge of the opening, the opposite side will be located at a distance of several centimeters from the edge of the opening. Thus, it can be easily determined that it is necessary to use three screws with a length of the thickness of the box (about 25 mm) plus the depth of fixing the self-pressing in the material of the opening (about 20-40 mm) from the loop side; And three self-pressing with a length of more than previous on the distance from the box to the edge of the opening. In any case, it is not necessary for special accuracy here - and it will be better if you have several fastener sizes at your hand, since it is never known in advance - what surprises can wait for you during the installation process, and possibly the position of the box will have to adjust.

Also at this stage you can already decide with the size of the wedges, with the help of which you have to strengthen the door box. Without removing the box, tick it first (without pressing hard to the pencil) - where the fasteners will be located, in our case, they must coincide with the sections of the bar fixed in the edges. If you have a different method of fixing (with the help of plastic dowels, or directly into the material), then such accuracy you will not need, and, though, make sure that there will be no interference of the reinforcements of the screws, the veins, and t. d.

Pull out the box. With the help of a roulette, make measurements and final markings of six holes for fasteners, remember - the holes are preferably located symmetrically, it looks much more aesthetic.

Drill with a drill, or a perforator in the "Drilling without impact" mode, the placed holes along the edges of the door box are placed, while choosing the diameter of the drill should be in such a way that the self-emitted screw is in the hole, it will facilitate the adjustment of the location of the box horizontally. Distances from the edge of the box of the box to the centers of the holes should be the same.

Important: Do not forget that the fasteners will then be masked by decorative plugs, so the holes for them should not be too close to the door protrusion. To perform marking within a few centimeters, it is very convenient to use a caliper.

Drilling holes, it is necessary to expand them from above, so that the self-sufficiency hat is not allowed with the plane's plane with its full swing. To do this, use the drill, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the screw screw. Sliver the available holes on a small depth (2-3 mm), then clean the edge of the hole using a building knife (you can also use the tip). If you have to use a larger screws, than supposed, diameter - adjust the holes using the appropriate size for this.

Now you need to make fastening wedges. To do this, with the help of an electric bike, or a conventional hacksaw cut small (50-70 mm) pieces of timber, you can also use trimming boxes of the box. Next, using the chisel, and installing it with the edge to the end of the bars under a slight inclination, and hitting it with a hammer, we split the rectangles along it. Since the chisel is at an angle - as a result you should have several wedges of the trapezoidal form.

When all preparatory work is completed - you can start setting.

Installing and fixing the door box

Important: If you install alone - you should first align and secure one side of the box, and only then the second. When installing the installation, you can also place and fix both sides.

Place the door box in the opening, thoroughly align in the plane of the walls one of its side (the construction level, while applied to the end of the box), and then using a drill with a long drill, through the previously drowning holes slightly sprill three places under the tapping screw. If in your case, the geometry of the opening allows you to fix the side with the hinges close to its edge - to begin, by itself, it is better from this side.

Remove the box and depart the holes in the opening under your selected screws. If you do not do this - the self-sufficiency will not be able to pass on a sufficient depth in the material. Use the drill with a diameter of about half the diameter of the self-press. Install the box in the opening and fix one of its side (it is better to use the "temporary" self-lengths of a smaller length in order not to destroy the wall material), then align in the plane of the walls and mark the opposite side of the box. Then unscrew the screws, remove the box and capture the remaining three mounting holes in the doorway.

When used for fastening screws with plastic dowels, a sequence of actions similar to, only holes in the edges of the doorway, of course, are performed, the same diameter is performed as a dowel, which, in turn, should be tightly entering the mounting holes and not hang in them. Finally install the doorway in the opening, strengthen it with wedges and tighten all six screws, but not to the end. Take the building level and, align both sides of the box in the plane of the doorway (applying the level to the wide face of the box), with the installation of wedges of different thicknesses, achieve the right position of the box, in which its side sides will be perfectly straight lines forming the floor In 90 o.

Important: The door box should be located strictly vertically both in the plane of the walls and in the plane of the doorway, the slightest deviation - and the door installed subsequently will cover the floor when opening, or cannot be closed normally.

Reaching the desired result, tighten the screw completely. Pour holes with self-strains with decorative linings, pick up the desired color and texture.

The remaining small seams in the joints of the joints, if desired, can be filled with a special sealant for a tree, also by choosing a suitable shade.

Fixation of the door cloth on the box

Secure the door leaf, hovering it on the loop. Tighten the remaining "temporary" screws.

Important: If you try to immediately spin the "factory" screws, pre-catching the holes below them - you can easily cut the heads on the head, as complete fasteners are usually extremely low quality.

After completion of the installation, fill in the mounting foam of the emptiness between the box and the bearing wall.

IMPORTANT: Before applying foam, moisten absorbing surfaces with a conventional sprayer. Also, do not forget with the help of painting tape gear on the door cloth folded in several layers of cardboard - in order for foam to dry out the change in the geometry of the box. It is better to use a professional foam that does not increase when frozen. If the voids are too voluminous - put the foam in several stages.

Do not hurry with the purchase of a new door and handle, if the work on the preparation of the doorway has not yet been completed. A key role in choosing the right components is the exact measurement of the finished passage. What stages will disintegrate work on the preparation of the opening to install a new interior door will tell the hypermarket of interior doors "Door":

• dismantling the former doors;
• removing platbands from the walls;
• getting rid of insulating material between the opening and the box;
• cut the old door box in the middle of the height;
• removing side parts of the box;
• scamping upper timber;
• removal of the threshold (if it was available);
• full purification of the opening of a foam or any other insulating material;
• refinement of the size of the opening recommended by the manufacturer of doors;
• alignment and stucco "Naked" holes in the wall to an ideal P-shaped-shaped-shaped.

Then, when the opening became perfectly smooth, check it out. The thickness of the walls on both sides should be the same, as well as it should not differ along the length of the doorway. The top line should be strictly parallel to the floor. The slightest leveling errors can squeeze the future door, so at this point you need to treat special scrupulsiness. Good independent work on dismantling and preparing for installing a new door will save a lot of money, so it makes sense to get acquainted with this technique closer. If you can't trust yourself in such matters or do not want to spend time and effort on this procedure, then experts can easily produce these works for you.

A guarantee of quality at the same time will be a worthy basis to shift work on professionals. Make measurements of the received opening and refer to the specialists who will help you choose the door and handle of the corresponding dimensions. Note that the flooring should be taken into account when measuring, as it also has a certain amount. By the time the installation of the door, the floor should at least align so that the height when measurements was the same in all areas of the opening. Often it happens that the doorway is not suitable for one of the standard doors.

Due to the web or additional width of the good, you can not always adjust the materials under the available hole. Work on the narrowing or expansion of the outlook itself can be made by the company's employees in which you purchase the door and fittings. For a situation where it is necessary to narrow the passage to install the door, select additional finishing materials, since the platbands are not always able to close the resulting space between the opening and the box. In the next article, the store "Door" will tell about the types of door boxes.

Memo client

Standard width	Height of standard web	Width of the recommended opening	Height of the recommended opening
550mm	1900mm.	630-650mm	1960-1980mm.
600mm.	1900mm.	680-700mm	1960-1980mm.
	2000mm		2060-2080mm.
700mm	2000mm	780-800mm.	2060-2080mm.
800mm.	2000mm	880-900mm.	2060-2080mm.
900mm.	2000mm	980-1000mm	2060-2080mm.
1200mm (600mm + 600mm)	2000mm	1280-1300mm	2060-2080mm.