Insulation of the attic of the house from the inside. Competent insulation of the attic floor with your own hands. Calculator for determining the thickness of the insulation of walls, roof and attic floor
Usually the house is built quickly, often during the summer season everything is brought under the roof. After interior finishing, you can move in, beautify the local area and expand the functionality of the house. In this article we will tell you how to insulate an attic from the inside if the roof is already covered. The information will help determine the choice of material - it often depends on the initial conditions, it will explain the subtleties of its correct application.
Insulation of an already covered roof has its own characteristics that you need to know about
After that you will talk with the builders “in the same language”. Which is a good incentive for them to offer and demonstrate all the best and do the work even better.
General points
To begin with, the attic is a bit of a special place. Its overall design requires a careful scrupulous approach. And the insulation of the attic roof is even more so:
You will have to insulate mainly vertical or inclined surfaces... Therefore, it is better to immediately exclude all soft "pliable" materials, namely rolls of mineral wool.
It is advisable to navigate for materials with low dead weight... Since the rafter system is already experiencing significant loads from wind and snow. In addition, the load on the load-bearing walls will not increase much.
Insulation is often required pediments... They are not always made by analogy with the main wall. Can be made of facing material. Or just a frame for insulation is arranged.
It happens that the area of the attic significantly exceeds the size of the house itself, while part of it rests on the columns. In this case, you will have to insulate the floor in contact with the street.
If the attic floor protrudes outside the house, additional insulation of the floor is also required.
It should be understood that the thickness of the insulation must correspond to the weather conditions of a particular climatic zone, while having a small margin. To gain the required thickness, the insulation is mounted in several layers, and the relatively small dimensions require docking.
Important: a careful approach is required to splicing any insulation. The joints of different layers should not be concentrated in one place. To exclude freezing, you should spread them as far as possible. It is important to keep this in mind so as not to spoil the material, especially when insulating a broken roof.
Video description
We will dwell in more detail on the insulation of the house with polystyrene foam. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:
It happens that the width of the rafters does not allow you to gain the required thickness of insulation. To continue, you need an additional frame. It is better to arrange it across, from this the entire rafter system will structurally become even stronger. And the insulation is more effective - the additional insulation will overlap the joints of the main insulation and the rafters.
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer a turnkey house insulation service. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.
Preparation
All wooden surfaces must be treated with antiseptic and fireproof impregnations.
All wooden knots must be treated with protective materials
It is necessary to immediately identify "unreliable places" on structural elements. For example - the abutment of the extreme rafter to the gable made of facing bricks. Or overlapping rafters with a screed, made without insulation. It is necessary to eliminate the shortcomings - if possible, foam them or knock them out with a sealant. Otherwise, they will not be able to resist through blowing and freezing.
The use of metal fasteners should be minimized. This is especially true for bolted metal plates. Of course, the bolted connections will remain, but the plates should be made of thick, durable plywood and replaced. The rest of the metal parts are painted with primer enamel and covered with a layer of polyurethane foam. Directly in the insulation, metal is a source of condensation and dampness.
Thermal insulation of the rafter system
It is great when the insulation of the attic from the inside was planned in advance, or "just in case" the constructive points for this were observed by the builders:
The roofing membrane is mounted on the rafters.
A counter-lattice is provided.
The step of the rafters has been maintained, corresponding to the common length or width of the insulation.
It is convenient to carry out insulation if it was planned at the construction stage
It is worth noting that these are ideal initial data, allowing not to look for a "way out", and to insulate the maximum volume of the attic with high quality without extra costs. Such conditions make it possible to use vapor-permeable heaters. And these are comfortable living conditions.
Insulation of an unprepared roof
When the decision on insulation is made forcibly, then the roof is usually not prepared. There is nothing terrible in this, it is even possible to choose options:
Carry out insulation with materials that do not require waterproofing.
Erect a special frame for living quarters.
In the case of roof insulation that is not prepared for this, special compounds can help
Foamed polyurethane foam can play a special role here. Although equipment is required for its application, the insulation is carried out in a continuous layer, and does not depend on the structural features of the roof.
Foamed polyurethane foam is one of them
This also includes ecowool. Although a roofing membrane is required for its device, it is quite possible to make a continuous layer of insulation.
Video description
In our video, we will look at how foam is produced, is foam harmful and where is it used?
Effective insulation
Stone wool
Due to their elasticity, the mats adhere well between the rafters, allow installation without additional fastening. And the relatively dense structure of stone wool excludes its shrinkage over time. Therefore, it has proven itself well on vertical surfaces.
Stone wool mats come in different thicknesses, and you can choose the one you need based on climatic conditions and other materials used
To further reduce the risks, every 3 meters in height, it is necessary to arrange supports for the insulation - add a horizontal frame element.
Generally available popular material - Penoplex. It is very effective as a heater. Its use is justified in the territories of the country where it is not advisable to use mineral wool - a large thickness is needed, which significantly steals space, and the cost is prohibitively high.
Under normal conditions, it saves a lot of space when every unit of volume is important:
It can be mounted between small-width rafters, while the insulation will be effective.
It does not require additional waterproofing, since it does not allow water to pass through itself. That is, the absence of a roofing membrane is not critical.
However, it is still desirable to have a ventilation gap with the roof, for quick removal of condensate vapors. So the rafters last much longer, because they are not protected.
Extruded polystyrene foam does not require mandatory waterproofing
Insulating with penoplex, it will be useful to take measures for increased fire safety. For example, use open installation of electrical wiring, laying it down constructively, as a design solution. The thing is that Penoplex itself does not support combustion, but at high temperatures it melts very quickly.
Correct completion of work
The insulation is installed, but the process should also be completed correctly. It must be protected from damp vapors from the room side. For this, a vapor barrier film is mounted. Moreover, the overall result strongly depends on the thoroughness of the execution. Although each package is supplied with instructions, here's a quick recap:
The subsequent canvas overlaps the previous one at least 15 cm.
The joints are glued with special tape.
However, the attic vapor barrier has a dual purpose. Oddly enough, but it protects the residents themselves. The fact is that vapor-permeable heaters are not strong enough and lend themselves to slight weathering. Outside, this is not so important, plus it is protected by a roofing membrane. And inside it is necessary to exclude even the minimal possibility of releasing the insulation components into the air - to reliably cover it.
The final stage is the sheathing of the insulation with canvases, on which the finishing is subsequently applied
Of course, this does not apply to Penoplex. But it is also recommended to defend against it, an effective material is penofol.
As for heaters of any type. In addition to the vapor barrier device, an unnecessary but effective technique is often used at first glance. Before finishing, an intermediate, seemingly superfluous material is mounted. It can be OSB, GVL or GKL - it depends on the construct. Moreover, the technology is fully respected - all joints are carefully sealed. This is an additional barrier against the unwanted effects of materials.
Video description
About the insulation of the attic from the inside in the video:
Outcomes
It turns out that roof insulation from the inside, if the roof is already covered, is quite possible to do efficiently. Moreover, not only having planned everything in advance, but also on a long-finished roof, completely unsuitable for this. Now, knowing the intricacies of the process, it is much easier to choose a good performer for such a responsible business.
In the construction of modern houses, the space under the roof is less and less used as an attic and storage of unnecessary things. Due to a small alteration of the attic with minimal costs, you can essentially get an additional floor.
But in order to make the attic suitable for winter living, you should carefully consider the issue of insulation. Indeed, unlike other premises, here the area of contact with the environment is maximum.
Features of attic insulation
Inclined roof surface.
Most of the surfaces in the attic are sloped. Therefore, the installation of flexible or roll insulation will be fraught with certain difficulties or will require the invitation of specialists.
High thermal conductivity of the roof.
The roof covering, first of all, should provide protection from atmospheric precipitation, and secondly, it should provide as little load as possible on the structural elements of the roof - rafters and lathing. As a consequence, the coating does not have any appreciable thermal insulation.
Roofing waterproofing.
Protecting the house from precipitation from the outside, the roof covering also works smoothly from the inside, not allowing moisture to pass from the room to the outside.
As a result of the listed features, a certain set of requirements for thermal insulation of the attic roof is formed. The insulating material must:
- have a rigid or semi-rigid structure,
- provide high thermal insulation,
- be resistant to condensation.
What types of insulation can I use?
What materials meet the above requirements and are suitable for insulating the attic from the inside?
The best choice would be sheet materials for insulation - mineral (stone) wool slabs, polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam.
All of them have sufficient rigidity for mounting on inclined surfaces and have the lowest thermal conductivity.
With regard to resistance to moisture, both types of polystyrene foam are not susceptible to it. But stone wool can accumulate condensation and eventually lose its insulating properties. Therefore, it is best to use it in vapor-permeable types of roofs, where there is a ventilation gap between the insulation layer and the outer roof covering.
On the other hand, it is wool, in addition to thermal insulation, that also provides excellent sound insulation, almost completely muffling the sounds of rain or hail pounding on the roof.
Each of these types of insulation can be used with any type of roofing - sheet metal, corrugated board, metal tiles, slate, ondulin, flexible and ceramic tiles.
Let's talk in more detail about how to properly insulate the attic with mineral wool, foam and extruded polystyrene foam.
Insulation of the attic with mineral wool
To achieve maximum heat saving, it is recommended to install the mineral wool in two layers.
Before installing the insulation, a vapor-waterproofing membrane is fixed on the inner surface of the roof and rafters. Then, the first cotton wool with a thickness of 10 to 20 cm is placed in the spacer between the rafters.With the help of the second layer at least 10 cm thick, a continuous covering is created between the rafters and the decorative wall cladding. It is also covered with a vapor barrier material.
This technology minimizes the risk of cold bridges and heat leakage at the joints of the insulation with rafters, beams and other structural elements of the roof.
However, for the second layer of mineral wool, you will need to build a frame of metal profiles or a crate of bars and slats, on which the insulation will be laid.
After the roof is insulated with mineral wool, you can attach the base for decorative finishing. These can be plywood sheets, particle boards or drywall.
Attic insulation with foam
The technology of insulating the attic with foam is a process of creating a multilayer heat-insulating cake. Despite the fact that the foam is not afraid of moisture, it is still necessary to use a waterproofing material from the side of the roof and a vapor barrier from the side of the room. Otherwise, the condensation formed under the roof will have a detrimental effect on the wooden roof structures.
For fixing foam sheets, you can use foam or special glue. In this case, the joints of the sheets are necessarily sealed with foam to prevent heat leakage.
Due to the extremely low thermal conductivity of the foam - 1 cm replaces almost 20 cm of brickwork - one layer of insulation up to 10 cm thick, laid between the rafters, will be enough. In this case, it is better to use sheets 5 cm thick and lay them on top of each other in a staggered manner, closing the joints.
The ends of the rafters, looking through the thermal insulation, will subsequently serve as a reliable basis for the installation of decorative trim elements.
| Required tools |
Construction stapler (for installation of vapor barrier), screwdriver, hammer, gun for polyurethane foam, utility knife, tape measure, level. |
|---|---|
| Fasteners |
Staples for a construction stapler, wood screws, plastic dowels with a mushroom head, foam glue. |
Increasingly, when building a private house, owners plan to use the under-roof space as an attic. It is very important to ensure the comfort of living no worse than on full-fledged floors; for this, insulation is performed. Before insulating the attic, you must carefully study this issue.
Attic benefits
An attic floor is a heated room under the roof, while the height of the outer walls should be from 0 to 150 cm. Planning such a floor has the following advantages:
- the possibility of an interesting room design;
- reducing the cost per square meter of living space;
- additional living space.
Attic floor drawing
Insulation areas
When designing an attic space, you need to think about the thermal protection of the roof and walls. Do-it-yourself attic insulation will allow you to significantly save on the construction or repair stage and fully control the process.
Insulation of the attic roof from the inside can significantly reduce heat losses, since the heated air moves upward. Thermal protection of walls can be carried out both from the inside and outside. The choice of the method depends on the technology of insulation of the outer walls of the entire building. It is competent from the point of view of heat engineering to mount the material from the cold air side.
If necessary, the heat-insulating material is also placed in the floor structure. In this case, the insulation plays the role of sound insulation and ensures maximum comfort of living.
Wall insulation
The following materials are used to insulate the attic floor and ensure that the temperature is maintained during the winter period:
- Styrofoam;
- extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
- mineral wool (glass wool, basalt, slag);
- polyurethane foam (polyurethane foam).
These materials are the most effective for thermal protection. If necessary, thermal insulation can be installed from the inside of the room, but it is best to mount the material outside. Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic from the inside has the following disadvantages:
- reduction of the usable space of the room;
- protection from cold only the internal volume of the building, not including external fences;
- dew point displacement (condensation during the cold period) deeper into the outer wall structure.
But it is worth noting that this method can be used in any weather; it does not require additional scaffolding and scaffolding. Work can be performed without special qualifications.
To answer the question of how to properly insulate the attic from the inside, it is necessary to consider the order of laying the layers. It is important to ensure reliable protection of the thermal insulation material from any kind of moisture.
For this, vapor barrier and waterproofing are used. The most important rule when insulating walls and any other structures: vapor barrier is always located on the side of warm air, and waterproofing on the side of cold air. If these conditions are not met, the entire wall cake as a whole will not work correctly and soon it will be necessary to carry out not only cosmetic, but also more serious repairs.
The order of work for all types of thermal insulation does not differ significantly... To ensure reliable thermal insulation, it is best to proceed in the following order:
- cleaning and leveling the base (when using polyurethane foam, it is recommended to moisten the base with water from a spray gun to improve the adhesion of polyurethane foam to the surface);
- fixing waterproofing;
- installation of the frame to secure the insulation (if necessary);
- installation of insulation and its fixing;
- vapor barrier layer;
- interior decoration of the room (for fragile materials, installation of plasterboard sheets will be required).
When using extruded polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam, vapor barrier can be neglected. Polyfoam, when installed in rooms with a normal humidity regime, also does not need it.
Roof insulation
The technology of insulating a mansard roof in most cases consists in laying heat-insulating material between the rafters. The following materials are best used:
- mineral wool in the form of rigid slabs;
- Styrofoam;
- polyurethane foam.
It should be remembered that when working with mineral wool and polyurethane foam, the performer will need protective clothing. Thermal insulation made of polyurethane foam is held in the design position due to adhesion (adhesion) to the surface. To improve this quality, it is recommended to slightly moisten the elements of the roof with water before application.
When using mineral wool slabs, it is best to set the pitch of the rafter legs so that the distance between them is 580 mm clean. This will simplify the installation process when using standard 600 mm wide boards and prevent gaps between the insulation and wooden structures.
The joints between the foam and the rafters are filled with polyurethane foam or sealant. Fastening is performed using special glue or nails. The adhesive composition should not contain solvents (alcohol, acetone).
How to properly insulate the attic with your own hands? It is important to observe the following order of the layers of the roof:
- finishing;
- lathing;
- vapor barrier;
- rafters and insulation between them;
- waterproofing;
- wind protection;
- lathing;
- roofing material.
First, the supporting structures of the roof are mounted, after which waterproofing and wind protection are laid. After the installation of the upper lathing, they begin to lay the insulation. It is better to use special moisture and windproof membranes as wind protection and waterproofing.
Laying insulation in the floor structure
To prevent increased audibility between floors, you can put 30-50 cm of insulation in the overlap pie. Installation can be carried out under the screed or on the joists. When using polyurethane foam, the installation of a lag is always required. When installing polystyrene under the screed, it is reinforced with additional reinforcement with meshes, the diameter of the reinforcement is taken as 4 mm.
Calculation of the thickness of the insulation
Before insulating the attic, it is necessary not only to select a heat-insulating material, but also its thickness. It depends on the climatic region of construction and on the thermal conductivity of the insulation. It is better to choose materials with a lower thermal conductivity: the higher it is, the greater the thickness of the heat-insulating layer will be required. The value for private construction can be taken approximately.
A full-fledged heat engineering calculation can be performed using a fairly simple Teremok program. It is freely available and fairly straightforward to use. With this application, you can choose the thickness of the heat insulator or check the already adopted one.
Competent insulation of the attic from the inside will ensure the comfort of living and avoid problems during operation.
It is important to pay equal attention to all external surfaces. Correctly selected thermal insulation can last a long time and reliably protect the house from the cold in winter.
How to insulate an attic: methods and technology
To keep the house warm, it is necessary to make competent insulation of the attic floor. We will tell you how to properly insulate the attic with your own hands from the inside.
Attic insulation technology from the inside
- Features of insulation and materials for thermal insulation of the attic from the inside with your own hands
- Do-it-yourself attic insulation methods
- The procedure for insulating the roof and walls of the attic
- Wall insulation
An attic is an attic space equipped for people living or for any household needs (greenhouse, study, etc.). Depending on what the room is intended for, its layout and the type of roof of the attic, there can be different configurations, but the general requirements, in accordance with which the attic must be insulated from the inside, remain the same.
The layout of the insulation in the attic roof.
Features of insulation and materials for thermal insulation of the attic from the inside with your own hands
You need to understand that this room, unlike all the others, is colder, because the top does not have any "heat cushion". That is why the insulation of the attic of the house from the inside, done by hand, should be especially high-quality. Proceeding from this, one should also choose the insulation, with the use of which the insulation will be carried out.
The difficulty lies in the fact that the surfaces are uneven, because under the roof there are rafter beams that will have to be bypassed. The waterproofing layer will need to be taken out under the roof in order to drain the condensate. In the process of organizing work on the insulation of the roof and walls of the attic from the inside with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account that the end walls also need to be covered, because it is through them that a huge amount of heat leaves.
Attic insulation scheme.
Each private house has its own characteristics, shape and configuration of the roof, wall material and roofing. Therefore, for each individual house there may be some special, clarifying recommendations, in accordance with which it is necessary to carry out the insulation of the roof and walls of the attic of a private house from the inside with your own hands. In order for the insulation to be of high quality and reliable, you need to choose the right materials. The choice of material with which it is better to insulate the roof and walls of the attic of a house from the inside with your own hands depends on many factors: roof structure, roofing material, climate in a given area, etc.
Polyfoam is one of the least expensive and most popular materials with which you can insulate the attic of a private house from the inside with your own hands. It is easy to process and install. However, it has a low vapor permeability, which means that the room can be damp. So, if the attic will be used as a living space, it is better to insulate it with another material.
You can correctly and efficiently insulate a residential attic with your own hands using expanded polystyrene. When laying this material, there will be practically no joints.
Mineral wool is an excellent material in all respects.
Having high strength, basalt mineral wool is fireproof, practically does not conduct heat and does not absorb moisture. Since this material has elasticity, it adheres well to the installation site, abutting the edges against the rafters. So it is best to insulate the walls of a residential attic from the inside with this particular material. you can properly insulate your house with mineral wool, even if you have never worked with this material before.
In addition to insulation, it is necessary to arrange waterproofing, vapor barrier and ventilation system. A properly designed waterproofing membrane will perform the following functions:
- to provide protection of structural elements from atmospheric precipitation;
- prevent the penetration of moisture into the insulation.
Waterproofing must be laid on a layer of insulation. Among the waterproofing films, the following are distinguished:
- diffusion and breathable super diffusion;
- anti-condensation waterproofing.
The vapor barrier consists of several layers of reinforced polyethylene film, which provides good protection of the structure from condensation.
The ventilation system is needed in order to ensure the outflow of exhaust and the flow of fresh air, and to effectively maintain normal air humidity in the attic room.
Do-it-yourself attic insulation methods
Attic insulation, diagram.
There are several methods according to which you can properly insulate the attic of the house from the inside with your own hands.
Warming between existing rafters is one of the most commonly used methods. With this method, the insulation is laid directly on the waterproofing, to the entire height of the rafter legs. Plates should be 10-15 mm wider than the gaps between the rafters.
Thermal insulation above the rafters. It is immediately necessary to complete all finishing work from the inside, and lay the heat-insulating material on the rafters under the roof covering.
Another popular way is to insulate the attic under the rafters. This method is not used in residential construction or low-rise buildings, but it is the best option for industrial buildings.
There are also combined schemes. The most popular scheme includes insulation under and between rafter legs. In this case, the rafters themselves are completely overlapped. The vapor barrier film must be laid on top of a layer of thermal insulation material. Among the shortcomings, one can single out a slight decrease in the usable space of the attic itself. This method of insulation is more effective, but also more complicated in the device. In this case, the insulation is performed with complete overlap of the rafters and beams between the beams and on the outside of the roof.
The procedure for insulating the roof and walls of the attic
Attic insulation scheme: insulation, vapor barrier, waterproofing.
To insulate the attic with your own hands, you will need the following materials and tools:
- foam sheets or mineral wool;
- waterproofing film;
- wooden bars;
- vapor barrier film;
- scissors;
- sharp knife;
- construction stapler;
- nails;
- polyurethane foam.
First of all, waterproofing should be laid along the rafters. The film is laid along the entire height - from the bottom to the ridge of the roof. However, this is not done in all cases, since the roofing material sometimes also serves as such an insulator. If the covering is made, for example, of roofing iron, it will be enough. In the process of installing insulation, you need to know the coefficient of its thermal conductivity. This data is usually given in the product certificate. Based on this information, a decision should be made on whether 1 layer will be enough or if you need to do double styling.
When installing this material, you need to remember that some distance should be left between it and the roof. This air gap is necessary to ensure high-quality ventilation at the place where the insulation is installed. The thickness of the air gap depends on the material of your roof covering. If the material has a wavy shape (metal tiles, shingles), then the air gap must be at least 25 mm. In cases where a "flat" format is used (steel sheets, roll materials, asbestos cement), the distance between the insulation and the roof must be doubled.
Another important point is that the thickness of the insulator plates and rafters can be different. In case the slabs are "thinner", the first layer is laid between the rafters, and the second one must be laid on the rafters. If the slabs are thicker, wooden slats must be stuffed onto the rafters.
To protect the insulating material from excessive moisture, it is necessary to apply a vapor barrier on top. As you know, warm air tends upward and condenses there. That is why such a protection device is mandatory. As a material for the vapor barrier layer, polyethylene film, glassine, foil materials, roofing material are used. You need to know that the vapor barrier material is overlapped, and the places of such joints are necessarily sealed (most conveniently with tape). Fastening is usually done with thin wooden slats.
Wall insulation
The attic walls are insulated if the roof of your house does not reach the attic floor. First, you need to fix the slats on the walls for laying the heat-insulating and vapor barrier layers. The method of performing the work is similar to that described above, but here you must first lay the waterproofing material. For finishing the walls of the attic, fiberboard sheets have proven themselves very well as insulation. It is quite easy to work with them, tk. they can be secured with screws or nails.
Do-it-yourself high-quality insulation of the attic of a house can significantly reduce heating costs, form a favorable microclimate in the house and increase the service life of structural elements.
Do-it-yourself attic insulation from the inside (photo and video)
Insulation of the attic from the inside can be done in different ways, depending on the characteristics of the house, the configuration of the roof. In order for the insulation to be of high quality, you need to choose the right material.
How to properly and how to insulate the attic roof
The roof is one of the most important structural elements of a building. It is exposed to a variety of environmental factors. Protects the house from high and low temperatures, precipitation, solar radiation. If the roof is not insulated in accordance with building codes, heat loss through the roof can be as high as a third of the total heat loss in a house. Insulating a mansard roof is not as simple a process as it might seem, although it can be done with your own hands. If your house has an attic floor, the question of how to insulate the attic roof will inevitably arise. Many owners prefer to make an additional room there. First, it increases the total living area of the home. And secondly, a new original premises appear. During the construction of modern cottage settlements, attic premises are planned initially. But even in old houses, you can easily convert the attic with your own hands into a living space.
The insulating material used for the attic roof protects against acoustic vibrations in addition to retaining heat in the house. Therefore, it is important to decide what is the best way to insulate the attic roof.
Do-it-yourself attic insulation
First you need to decide how to insulate the roof of your attic. Today, there are many options for thermal insulation materials. Installation is easy to do with your own hands.
There are many nuances in the installation of the roof itself. The walls of the attic are either the gables of the building or the roof slopes, or they are adjacent to the slopes. That is why intensive air movement begins through the roof. Because of what it is constantly exposed to temperature extremes. To avoid the above problem, the attic must be insulated in sequence (from the inner layer to the outer layer):
Attic insulation scheme
- Vapor barrier layer.
- Heat insulating layer.
- Ventilation gap.
- Waterproofing layer.
- Directly roofing material.
If high-quality insulation of the attic roof is carried out, then the absence of the above layers is not recommended. Of particular note is the role of the insulating layer and the ventilation gap. It is thanks to the presence of all the layers that the microclimate in the attic is provided.
What to look for when choosing a heater
When choosing a heater, you should first look at thermal conductivity. It is the ability to transfer and absorb heat between the attic space and the surrounding air. A material with low thermal conductivity is desirable. Firstly, it will help to better protect the house from heat leaks. And secondly, a thin layer of heat-insulating material is required.
Correctly insulated attic
On the other hand, if insufficient insulation of the attic roof is carried out, problems begin in winter. During the winter months, the roof is covered with a layer of snow. Snow is a good additional insulating layer. But with insufficient insulation with your own hands, heat is lost through the roof. The snow is gradually melting. A layer of ice forms. Ice is not able to keep warm. It has a mechanical effect on structures. Including for the outer roof covering. This leads to its wear and tear and gradual destruction. Sometimes, because of this, it is required to repair the outer roofing layer after each winter. With sufficient thermal insulation, snow does not melt or turn into ice in winter. The roof retains its structure and the snow provides additional protection against heat loss. In summer, the situation is reversed. When exposed to direct sunlight, roofs tend to heat up and create a suffocating atmosphere. If you lay a layer of insulation in sufficient quantity, this problem will not occur and a comfortable environment will be provided in the attic.
The main characteristics of heaters
When deciding how to insulate the roof of the attic of a house from the inside, in addition to thermal conductivity, attention should be paid to several more important parameters of the insulating material. The most important characteristics:
- water resistance;
- weight;
- fire safety;
- durability;
- material thickness;
- ecological characteristics;
- terms of operation.
Resistance to moisture is usually indicated by the manufacturer of the material. It is an important parameter, as the roof can leak and get wet. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a material with water-repellent properties. If this is not available for one reason or another, then the layer will have to be additionally waterproofed. The weight of the material is also of great importance. The smaller it is, the better. The total weight of the material is determined based on its relative density. Mineral wool materials should be with a density of 45 to 50 kg / cubic meter. When using fiberglass, the density should be within 20 kg / cubic meter. Heavier materials will put undue pressure on structures.
The insulating layers must be non-flammable. This is usually reflected in the technical documentation. As for durability, the ability of the insulation to maintain its shape for many years is important. After all, the roof can be multi-pitched. If the insulation is deformed, the roof will simply lose its protective properties.
What materials are popular
It is necessary to disassemble each separately in order to decide how to properly insulate the attic roof. Main materials:
- Styrofoam;
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- polyurethane foam;
- mineral wool;
- glass wool.
The best way to insulate the attic roof is up to you. But before that, you need to familiarize yourself with each material.
Attic insulation with foam
Styrofoam- this is a popular material among people who are faced with the problem of how to properly insulate the attic roof. Has a suitable thermal conductivity, low density and, accordingly, low weight. Styrofoam provides good water protection and is very inexpensive. On the other hand, it has certain disadvantages. Its main disadvantage is insufficient fire safety. Also, when installing with your own hands, it often crumbles. As a result, gaps appear between the rafters. This, in turn, leads to a decrease in the thermal insulation characteristics of the coating. The foam also has a short service life.
Insulation of the attic with extruded polystyrene foam
It has the best characteristics. First, it is non-flammable and provides the necessary fire safety. Does not crumble over time. It is water-repellent. It is also a plus that a very thin layer of material is needed. It is not recommended to insulate living quarters with material.
Attic insulation with polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam differs from the previous options in the way of laying. Thanks to this, there are no gaps. The material retains its shape perfectly. Possesses the necessary fire safety and repels moisture. The disadvantage of polyurethane foam is considered to be poor vapor permeability. Because of this, there may be high humidity in the attic. The problem is solved by organizing adequate ventilation.
Mineral wool and glass wool are widely known as insulation materials. They have many advantages. Excellent fire safety, keep warm well, have low density. Do not leave gaps or gaps during installation. The material provides excellent sound insulation, has a low price. The disadvantages include high moisture absorption and vapor absorption.
Laying heat-insulating material
When insulating the attic, do not forget about hydro and vapor barrier
After the selection of the material, it is necessary to prepare the premises for installation. Insulation of the attic roof begins with determining the step of laying the insulation. It is necessary to try to ensure that the sheets of insulation fit closely between the roof rafters. This will avoid the formation of gaps and further heat loss. If you are using foam, then this nuance does not matter to you. The waterproofing is laid with an overlap between the rafters and the crate. Then wood panels are installed using screws to provide ventilation. On the created platform between the rafters, the insulating material itself is mounted directly.
This is useful when mounting various structures in the attic.
Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic roof from the inside: analysis of technology
How to properly insulate a mansard roof from the inside of the room. What is more rational to insulate? We decide on the choice and follow a simple step-by-step method of thermal insulation.
Construction of houses
Every year more and more of our compatriots are tempted to equip a residential attic in their home. This makes it possible to expand the living space and adds some romance to the overall concept of the house, especially if dormers are installed. Almost all new country houses are initially built with an attic, but even in old houses, cold attics are remade, insulated, heated and equipped by compassionate owners. To keep the attic warm and dry in winter, cool in summer and the materials to serve for a long time, it is necessary to understand the very essence of the attic floor insulation technology and understand the processes taking place in it. It is not difficult to insulate the attic roof with your own hands, all the work is quite simple, you only need a partner and a tool. The main thing is to do everything right, then the thermal insulation material will last a long time, the wood of the rafters will not get wet and will not rot, and as a result, you will not need a quick overhaul.
Why is it necessary to insulate the attic roof
The attic is a special room, its walls are almost closely drawn to the roof surface and the ventilation gaps are no more than 10-15 cm. That is why the attic cools down quickly in winter and heats up in summer. The entire roof area acts as a storage area for solar heat in summer, while most of the heat in winter goes through it. This is due to the thermal conductivity of the materials from which it is made and the ventilation. For example, in winter, the heat coming from the heating radiators rises up, spreads under the roof vault and safely evaporates, since the roof material has a high thermal conductivity. At the same time, the snow melts, turns into ice and destroys the roofing material. And in summer, the surface of the roof heats up and transfers heat to the entire structure, as a result, even the air becomes hot and stale. Even two air conditioners cannot cope with such a problem.
In a house with a classic cold attic, the situation is completely different. In it, the function of a heat insulator is performed by snow on the roof in winter and air in the attic. Fill-in thermal insulation materials on the floor of the attic plus the air trapped in the attic space perfectly keep the heat coming from the side of the heated living space. As a result, even in the most severe winters, the temperature in the attic does not drop below 0 ° C - -2 ° C. Thanks to this, the snow on the roof does not melt and serves as an additional heat insulator. In summer, the air temperature in the attic can be regulated by opening and closing the windows in the gables; in fact, this is a real ventilation that removes excess heat from the attic, preventing overheating of the structural elements of the roof.
What to do with the attic? It is necessary to carefully insulate the room, choosing the right material, its thickness, place of installation and adhere to the technology. For example, if you use a heater of insufficient thickness - by eye, then it may not be enough, the snow will melt, and soon you will have to rebuild the roofing material, since the old one will become completely unusable. A sufficient width of the insulation will allow you to completely isolate the attic from the roof, and well-executed ventilation will remove excess moisture and condensate from the under-roof space. But first things first.
Materials for insulating the attic roof
Choosing the best thermal insulation material for insulating a mansard roof is a very important task. The type of insulation determines how thick the "cake" of insulation and the number of layers in it will be. Due to the specifics of the place where the material will be applied, certain requirements are imposed on it:
- Low heat conductivity. It is advisable to take material with a coefficient below 0.05 W / m * K.
- Low moisture permeability. Due to the fact that the roof can leak, the insulation material should be moisture resistant and, if possible, not get wet or not lose its properties when wet. If this condition cannot be met, then the insulation must be waterproofed, excluding wetting.
- The low weight of the insulation is extremely important in order not to overload the roof structure. You can determine the weight of a material by its density. To insulate the attic, you can use mineral wool insulation with a density of 45 - 50 kg / m3, fiberglass - with a density of 14 kg / m3. Heavier slab options (200 kg / m2) will not work.
- Fire safety. It is desirable that the material does not burn or sustain combustion.
- Ability to keep in shape. Since the place where the insulation is laid is unusual - between the rafters at an angle, then over time, light roll materials based on mineral fiber can slide down, leaving large gaps at the top - empty spaces. Therefore, it is important to choose a material that will retain its shape and size for a long time.
- Resistant to severe frost, temperature extremes and the ability to withstand multiple changes of defrost / freeze cycles.
- Durability.
The thickness of the insulation for the attic is calculated for each case individually. This can be done using a dedicated online calculator. For the calculation, it is necessary to indicate the region of construction, the thickness of the walls of the house and their material, the thickness and material of the insulation of the walls, the thickness and material of the floors of the house, as well as the thickness and material of the insulation of the floors. All this is extremely important for calculating heat loss, on the basis of which the thickness of the insulation is selected. If you pick it up "by eye", then in most cases a layer of mineral wool with a layer of 250 mm is enough.
Consider the most popular materials that are used to insulate mansard roofs.
Mineral wool or glass wool- one of the most successful solutions for insulating the attic from the inside, although not ideal. Mineral wool fits perfectly into the space between the rafters, leaving no gaps, does not burn and does not support combustion, weighs little and serves as an excellent heat insulator. The slab positions of basalt wool keep their shape perfectly. But at the same time, it absorbs moisture quite strongly, like any cotton wool, therefore, waterproofing from the roof and vapor barrier from the side of the dwelling is required, since the mineral wool vapor also absorbs well. Wet mineral wool loses up to 60% of its properties irrevocably, and its complete replacement is required. In addition, over time, it cakes and crumbles, it does not withstand mechanical stress.
Nevertheless, mineral wool remains one of the best materials for insulating an attic roof with your own hands. It is inexpensive, easy to work with, and adherence to the correct technology will allow you to neutralize its shortcomings. For different regions, the thickness of the insulation is calculated individually, but the minimum layer of mineral wool for the middle zone of the Russian Federation is 150 mm, in colder regions the thickness must be increased to 250 - 300 mm.
Expanded polystyrene or Styrofoam- an extremely popular material on the market, with which they are trying to insulate everything, and what is possible and what is not worth it. Against the background of the seemingly ideal characteristics - low thermal conductivity, negligible weight, moisture resistance and rigid shape, the foam has significant drawbacks. Firstly, different brands of expanded polystyrene have varying degrees of fire safety from G1 to G4. And as practice has shown, for some reason they use combustible foam G3 - G4 for insulation, which can end very badly. After all, the fire spreads upward, if the attic insulation material catches fire, it will be unrealistic to survive in it. Secondly, working with foam is not very convenient, since it crumbles during cutting and installation, there are gaps between the rafters, which have to be closed up in all sorts of clever ways. Thirdly, the foam begins to crumble and collapse over time. Considering all the disadvantages, insulation of the attic roof with foam is not worth doing. This material can only be used in those areas where it will be hidden behind a floor screed or a layer of plaster.
Extruded polystyrene foam- an excellent material for insulating the attic from the outside, i.e. if you lay it on the rafters under the roofing material. It is strong enough, not afraid of moisture, does not burn, keeps its shape perfectly. And what is important - its very small layer is required from 50 to 100 mm.
Polyurethane foam- a modern material that is blown out with the help of a special installation, without leaving the slightest gaps or gaps. This is an indisputable plus, especially since with such a spraying it is easy to avoid cold bridges in the form of rafter legs. Polyurethane foam is not afraid of moisture, does not burn, weighs little and keeps its shape perfectly. But he has another drawback - low vapor permeability, he practically does not "breathe" at all. This means that the attic room will always be unpleasantly humid if you do not equip forced ventilation.
Ecowool- one of the most ideal options in the question of how best to insulate the attic roof. It also blows into all cracks, is not afraid of moisture, practically does not burn, weighs little, "breathes" and, most importantly, is absolutely environmentally friendly, unlike all other materials. Its fumes or accidental particles are not capable of causing harm, unlike mineral wool.
When choosing insulation for a mansard roof, pay attention not only to the characteristics of the material itself, but also to the purely design features of its use. For example, laying mineral wool between the rafters allows, if necessary, to disassemble the "cake" of insulation and check the condition of the rafters, repair them, and then the mineral wool slabs can be easily put in place. If you spray polyurethane foam into the space between the rafters, then the rafters become practically inaccessible for revision. So everything needs to be treated wisely.
How to properly insulate a mansard roof from the inside
The most common way to insulate an attic is from the inside, if space permits or there are no other contraindications. To do this, use mineral wool-based insulation, glass wool and, less often, extruded polystyrene foam. Even less often, polyurethane foam or ecowool is blown out.
Insulation scheme for the attic roof from the inside
Compliance with the correct "pie" of the attic roof insulation is the key to the durability of materials and the comfort of living in the attic.
Mansard roof insulation cake (from the inside to the outside):
- Finishing material.
- Vapor barrier membrane.
- Insulation - mineral wool or glass wool.
- Waterproofing membrane that releases steam and does not allow moisture to pass through.
- Ventilation gap with crate.
- Roofing material.
Vapor barrier film must be used if wadded materials are used as insulation. So the mineral wool can be protected from the damp fumes of the living space. If, instead of mineral wool, polyurethane foam or ecowool is used, then a vapor barrier is not needed.
Waterproofing is needed in any case, regardless of the insulation used, it will protect the wooden elements of the roof structure. As a waterproofing, it is necessary to use superdiffusion membranes capable of releasing steam to the outside and not allowing moisture to pass inside. A ventilation gap of 4 to 10 cm is required between the waterproofing film and the roofing material, depending on the type of roof. Excess steam from the insulation will come out through it.
Laying insulation between the rafters of the attic roof
It is better to insulate the attic roof from the inside at the stage of building a house. Then all stages of work will be performed correctly. Before starting insulation, it is necessary to determine where we will insulate. To do this, draw a drawing of the attic with exact dimensions and mark where the interior space will be finished. For example, if the living space will occupy the entire area, including the roof slope up to the overlap, then the entire roof slope must be insulated. If the room is, as it were, cut off, i.e. there will be free space below between the slope and the interior decoration, then it will be necessary to insulate it strictly according to the drawn scheme, leaving free space for ventilation. But then, in narrow areas near the very edge of the roof, it will be necessary to insulate the floor.
Consider the option of warming the entire roof slope:
- Even at the construction stage, before laying the roofing material, it is necessary to waterproof the roof. To do this, we lay a waterproofing membrane on top of the rafters, starting from the bottom up, making an overlap of at least 15 cm and gluing the joints with self-adhesive tapes. The film must be spread not in tightness, so that it does not break when frosts come. It must be laid with a sag of no more than 2 cm per 1 m. We nail the waterproofing to the rafters with a construction stapler. If this is not the case, then you can use galvanized nails with a wide head.
- From above we nail a crate of wooden bars. Their thickness is selected depending on the required size of the ventilation gap, at least 2.5 cm. We fix the crate with corrosion-resistant self-tapping screws. In order not to injure the film once again, we make holes in the bars in advance.
Important! For greater reliability, you can make two ventilation gaps: between the insulation and the waterproofing, between the waterproofing and the roof. This will protect the material from getting wet if condensation suddenly accumulates on the film.
- We lay roofing material on the crate - tiles, corrugated board, slate, metal. For the installation of a soft roof, you first need to nail sheets of chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood on top of the crate, which will serve as the basis for fastening.
- Work moves into the attic. We unpack the insulation - mineral wool and let it lie down and straighten. Cut into the required pieces. The width should be 20 - 30 mm greater than the distance between the rafters, so that the canvases are kept "at the edge".
- We push the sheets of insulation into the space between the rafters. We press on the middle of the canvas, and the edges straighten themselves. The rafter thickness should be 200 - 250 mm.
Important! It is convenient to select the step between the rafters to the size of the future insulation. Rolls are sold with a width of 1200 mm. The step can be made 1200 mm or 600 mm, then the roll will need to be cut in half.
- On top of the insulation, we lay a vapor barrier material with an overlap of 10 cm, glue the joints with tape. We fix it to the rafters with staples or using a lathing.
- We fill the crate of 25 mm thick slats.
- We fix the finishing material on the slats.
If you are planning to insulate the attic in an old or already built house and do not want to remove the roofing material, then you can cheat a little. The waterproofing film can be spread inside the attic, wrapping the rafters with it and leading into the space between them. But in this case, the wooden rafters are unprotected in the event of leaks.
Laying insulation under the rafters of the attic roof
A little less often, the method of insulation is used, when the material is laid inside the attic on top of the rafters, and not in the space between them. The main reason is that you can avoid cold bridges, which are wooden rafters. And so the tight fit of the thermal insulation material will ensure that there are no gaps, and the free space between the rafters will serve as additional ventilation. A very good solution if the attic space allows you to reduce it by at least 30 cm on each side.
Insulation of the attic from the inside of the room:
- From the inside, we nail a waterproofing membrane onto the rafters.
- We attach plasterboard ceiling hangers to the rafters so that they look at each other with their U-shaped hole.
- We put insulation in the suspensions. We cut the canvases with a slight overlap in order to exclude the appearance of cracks. As a result, you should get a solid sheet of insulation. We outline along the way where the rafters are.
- We close the insulation with a vapor barrier film, fasten it with staples.
- We fill the crate for the finishing material. For fastening, we use long nails 150 - 200 mm to break through the insulation and reach the rafters.
In principle, this method can be combined with the installation of insulation between the rafters. The first layer will be between the rafters, and the second will overlap everything, including the cold bridges.
How to insulate a mansard roof from the outside
It is possible to insulate the roof from the outside only during the construction phase or if the roofing material is removed. This method of insulation allows you to leave the attic space in its original form without losing space. Also, many design solutions involve the use of rafters as decorative furnishings.
Insulation technology of the attic roof from the outside
Insulation of the attic from the outside is carried out only with dense slab materials. These include extruded polystyrene foam or Penoplex. It is not afraid of moisture, therefore it does not require a vapor barrier. The "cake" of Penoplex insulation will look like this:
- Extruded polystyrene foam boards.
- Waterproofing membrane.
- Ventilation gap with crate.
- Roofing material.
The indisputable advantage of this method of insulation is that the rafters are available for inspection and repair at any time.
Laying insulation on the rafters of the attic roof
Thermal insulation with extruded polystyrene foam on top of the rafters allows you to create a continuous heat-insulating layer without cold bridges.
- To prevent the material from sliding off the roof, at the very bottom we nail a board to the rafters with a width equal to the thickness of the insulation (from 50 to 100 mm).
- We spread the insulation plates in a checkerboard pattern. It is necessary to start from the bottom, from the fixing rail.
- We fix them to the rafters using special dowels with a mushroom head.
- We spread the waterproofing film, starting from the bottom up, with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm, glue the joints with tape. The film is necessary to protect the material from leaks and condensation.
- We fill the crate of bars with a minimum thickness of 40 mm.
- We install roofing material.
Extruded polystyrene foam does not require any additional protection from the inside.
It is necessary to insulate the gables of the attic room together with the entire facade of the building, i.e. outside. The choice of insulation material depends entirely on the material from which the house is built and the preferences of the owner. For example, if the insulation is carried out using a curtain wall system, then you can use mineral wool with vapor barrier and waterproofing films. And if a wet facade is planned, then foam plastic can be laid under it. Remember, adherence to technology is the key to success.
Do-it-yourself mansard roof insulation, Construction portal
Construction of houses Every year more and more of our compatriots are tempted to equip a residential attic in their home. This makes it possible to expand the living space and
Most often, when building a house, an attic room is immediately thought of as a residential one. At the same time, the question arises of how to insulate the attic so that it is a usable area not only in summer, but also in winter. But sometimes it also happens that the idea of arranging a room in it arises already in the process of building an attic. If the roof slopes are located at an angle of 35 ÷ 45 degrees, and are raised high enough, the design of the attic as a cozy room suggests itself.
Of course, in this case, you will have to turn to specialists who are professionally engaged in such a technological process of insulation and have the necessary equipment for this. But on the other hand, you can free yourself from all further worries about insulating the slopes and get such a thermal insulating layer that does not require waterproofing, since by itself it will tightly close the inner surface of the roof and rafters.
Materials for self-insulation of the attic
If the waterproofing film is laid on the rafters, then the following insulation materials can be used for further work:
- Mineral wool is the most popular insulation, which, in terms of its parameters, is excellent for thermal insulation of a wooden roof system and roof slopes. Minwata is heat and moisture resistant, has a very low thermal conductivity, is durable, elastic, which is very convenient when performing installation work. In addition, all types of mineral wool are excellent noise absorbers and sound insulators... Sometimes, in order to enhance the insulating effect, sprayed polyurethane foam is also used in combination with mineral wool. This option is especially in demand in the northern regions with a cold climate.
Mineral wool is produced in different forms - in mats and rolls. It can also be foil-coated. A material with a similar layer is laid with foil inside the room, so that the accumulated heat is reflected back.
- Expanded polystyrene () is a well-known insulation, affordable and easy to install. However, practice shows that often this material alone is not enough to make the attic room really warm, since it does not adhere sufficiently to the roof surface.
It can also be used in combination with sprayed insulation. In addition, ordinary expanded polystyrene (not extruded) is not resistant to fire, and emits toxic substances during combustion - this fact must also be taken into account when choosing one or another insulation.
- Polyurethane foam can be sprayed in several layers, and have, in principle, any desired thickness, which is required for high-quality insulation of the attic. When solidified, it acquires a fairly high density, it is easily leveled along the rafters by cutting off excess foam. The sprayed material will penetrate all the cracks and close them from the penetration of drafts and precipitation. Moreover, it also gives the roof and roof structure additional resistance to mechanical stress.
The sprayed material rapidly expands and hardens. Using it, you can do not only without waterproofing, but also without vapor barrier, since this material in a solidified state can easily cope with these problems - it does not delay the exit for steam, but at the same time, it does not let moisture inside.
Sprayed polyurethane foam can be used not only to insulate the slopes and walls of the attic, but also for its floors. It is also sprayed between the wooden parts of the structure, in this case, between the floor beams.
- Ecowool is a shredded material made from natural cellulose with appropriate additives. It is good for them to insulate the gaps between the floor beams. Shredded ecowool is not very suitable for wall insulation, since it does not have such a pronounced adhesive property as polyurethane. However, there is a wet glue spraying technology, but it necessarily requires sophisticated professional equipment.
In order to create the required thickness of the layer of insulation, trusses made of galvanized metal profiles are arranged across the floor beams. The space between them will be filled with ecowool. This process is carried out using special equipment - a compression unit through a special pipe carries out pneumatic transfer of material under pressure from the hopper or mixer to the place of its laying.
TOP 10 best heaters for the attic
| Photo | Name | Rating | Price | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| The best basalt heaters | ||||||
| #1 |
|
Hotrock smart |
⭐ 99 / 100 |
|||
| #2 |
|
Rockwool |
⭐ 98 / 100 |
|||
| The best fiberglass insulation | ||||||
| #1 |
|
Ursa geo |
⭐ 99 / 100 |
|||
| #2 |
|
Isover Warm House |
⭐ 98 / 100 |
|||
| The best foam insulation | ||||||
| #1 |
|
Knauf Therm House |
⭐ 99 / 100 |
|||
| #2 |
|
PSB S 15-O |
⭐ 98 / 100 |
|||
| The best polystyrene foam insulation | ||||||
| #1 |
|
TechnoNicol XPS Technoplex |
⭐ 99 / 100 |
|||
| #2 |
|
Penoplex Comfort |
⭐ 98 / 100 |
|||
| The best polyester fiber insulation | ||||||
| #1 | Shelter EcoStroy ShES standard |
⭐ 99 / 100 |
||||
| #2 |
|
Shelter EcoStroy SHES Arctic |
⭐ 98 / 100 |
|||
Video: attic insulation using a set of ROCKWOOL materials
Prices for popular types of heaters
Insulation
How to calculate the required insulation thickness yourself
It is important not only to choose the insulation material correctly - you need to know how thick it should be in order to fully ensure the thermal insulation of the attic room. And at the same time, this is also necessary from the point of view, so as not to overpay for unnecessarily thick insulation, which, in fact, will not give any advantages and will only become an unnecessary waste of material.
The calculation methodology is determined by special documents - SNiP 23 — 02-2003 and SP 23— 101-2004 "Design thermal protection of buildings". Its main principle is that the total value of the thermal resistance of a building structure should not be lower than the calculated indicators established for different climatic regions. These values of thermal resistance (R) are summarized in special tables, but it is easier to use a map diagram.
Please note that on the map the schematic shows for each region separate values for walls, floors and coverings - everyone has all these elements. The roof, walls and floor of the attic are always multi-layer structures, and insulation will act as one of the layers.
The total value of the heat transfer resistance for a structure of n layers is:
R = R1 + R2 +… Rn
The very same resistance to heat transfer is equal to:
Rn = δn/ λ n
where δ n Is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material, λ n - its thickness (in meters).
Since the insulation is considered as one of the layers, you can calculate its thickness using the formula:
δut= (R - 0.16 - δ1/ λ1- δ2/ λ2 – δ n/ λ n) × λout
The scheme of the structure of the pediment wall, roof or attic floor is not a secret for the owner. Measuring the thickness of each of their layers is also not the most difficult task. It remains to find the thermal conductivity coefficients for each of the materials. To do this, you can use the attached table:
| Estimated thermal performance of some building and thermal insulation materials | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Material | Dry density of materials | Design factors for various operating conditions | ||||
| ω | λ | μ | ||||
| A | B | A | B | A, B | ||
| λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity (W / (m ° C)); ω - coefficient of mass ratio of moisture in the material (%); μ - vapor permeability coefficient (mg / (m h Pa) |
||||||
| A. Polymer | ||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 150 | 1 | 5 | 0.052 | 0.06 | 0.05 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.052 | 0.05 |
| Also | 40 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam | 25 ÷ 45 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Polyfoam PVC1 and PV1 | 125 | 2 | 10 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.23 |
| Also | 100 or less | 2 | 10 | 0.05 | 0.052 | 0.23 |
| Polyurethane foam | 80 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Also | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.041 | 0.05 |
| Also | 40 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.04 | 0.05 |
| Thermal insulation products made of foamed synthetic rubber "Aeroflex" | 80 | 5 | 15 | 0.04 | 0.054 | 0.003 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex", type 35 | 35 | 2 | 3 | 0.029 | 0.03 | 0.018 |
| Also. type 45 | 45 | 2 | 3 | 0.031 | 0.032 | 0.015 |
| B. Mineral wool, fiberglass | ||||||
| Mineral wool stitched mats | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.3 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.061 | 0.067 | 0.49 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Mineral wool mats on a synthetic binder | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.072 | 0.082 | 0.49 |
| Also | 175 | 2 | 5 | 0.066 | 0.076 | 0.49 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.49 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.53 |
| Soft, semi-rigid and hard mineral wool slabs on synthetic and bitumen binders | 250 | 2 | 5 | 0.082 | 0.085 | 0.41 |
| Also | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.079 | 0.084 | 0.41 |
| Also | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.49 |
| Also | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.068 | 0.073 | 0.49 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.069 | 0.49 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.065 | 0.56 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.056 | 0.063 | 0.6 |
| Mineral wool slabs of increased rigidity based on organophosphate binder | 200 | 1 | 2 | 0.07 | 0.076 | 0.45 |
| Semi-rigid mineral wool slabs on starch binder | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.38 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.38 |
| Glass staple fiber slabs on a synthetic binder | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.6 |
| Stitched glass fiber mats and strips | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.53 |
| Glass staple fiber mats "URSA" | 25 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.05 | 0.61 |
| Also | 17 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.053 | 0.66 |
| Also | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.048 | 0.053 | 0.68 |
| Also | 11 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.055 | 0.7 |
| Glass staple fiber slabs "URSA" | 85 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.05 | 0.5 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.047 | 0.5 |
| Also | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Also | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Also | 35 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Also | 30 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Also | 20 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.048 | 0.53 |
| Also | 17 . | 2 | 5 | 0.047 | 0.053 | 0.54 |
| Also | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.049 | 0.055 | 0.55 |
| B. Slabs of natural organic and inorganic materials | ||||||
| Fiberboard and chipboard | 1000 | 10 | 12 | 0.23 | 0.29 | 0.12 |
| Also | 800 | 10 | 12 | 0.19 | 0.23 | 0.12 |
| Also | 600 | 10 | 12 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.13 |
| Also | 400 | 10 | 12 | 0.11 | 0.13 | 0.19 |
| Also | 200 | 10 | 12 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.24 |
| Fiberboard slabs and arbolite on Portland cement | 500 | 10 | 15 | 0.15 | 0.19 | 0.11 |
| Also | 450 | 10 | 15 | 0.135 | 0.17 | 0.11 |
| Also | 400 | 10 | 15 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.26 |
| Reed slabs | 300 | 10 | 15 | 0.09 | 0.14 | 0.45 |
| Also | 200 | 10 | 15 | 0.07 | 0.09 | 0.49 |
| Peat thermal insulation slabs | 300 | 15 | 20 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.19 |
| Also | 200 | 15 | 20 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Plaster boards | 1350 | 4 | 6 | 0.5 | 0.56 | 0.098 |
| Also | 1100 | 4 | 6 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.11 |
| Plaster cladding sheets (gypsum plasterboard) | 1050 | 4 | 6 | 0.34 | 0.36 | 0.075 |
| Also | 800 | 4 | 6 | 0.19 | 0.21 | 0.075 |
| G. Backfill | ||||||
| Expanded clay gravel | 600 | 2 | 3 | 0.17 | 0.19 | 0.23 |
| Also | 500 | 2 | 3 | 0.15 | 0.165 | 0.23 |
| Also | 450 | 2 | 3 | 0.14 | 0.155 | 0.235 |
| Also | 400 | 2 | 3 | 0.13 | 0.145 | 0.24 |
| Also | 350 | 2 | 3 | 0.125 | 0.14 | 0.245 |
| Also | 300 | 2 | 3 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.25 |
| Also | 250 | 2 | 3 | 0.11 | 0.12 | 0.26 |
| E. Wood, products from it and other natural organic materials | ||||||
| Pine and spruce across the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.14 | 0.18 | 0.06 |
| Pine and spruce along the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.29 | 0.35 | 0.32 |
| Oak across the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.18 | 0.23 | 0.05 |
| Oak along the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.3 |
| Plywood, glued | 600 | 10 | 13 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.02 |
| Facing cardboard | 1000 | 5 | 10 | 0.21 | 0.23 | 0.06 |
| Construction multi-layer cardboard | 650 | 6 | 12 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.083 |
| E. Roofing, waterproofing, facing materials | ||||||
| - Asbestos-cement | ||||||
| Asbestos-cement flat sheets | 1800 | 2 | 3 | 0.47 | 0.52 | 0.03 |
| Also | 1600 | 2 | 3 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.03 |
| - Bituminous | ||||||
| Petroleum bitumens for construction and roofing | 1400 | 0 | 0 | 0.27 | 0.27 | 0.008 |
| Also | 1200 | 0 | 0 | 0.22 | 0.22 | 0.008 |
| Also | 1000 | 0 | 0 | 0.17 | 0.17 | 0.008 |
| Asphalt concrete | 2100 | 0 | 0 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 0.008 |
| Products made of expanded perlite on a bitumen binder | 400 | 1 | 2 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.04 |
| Also | 300 | 1 | 2 | 0.09 | 0.099 | 0.04 |
One more nuance. The table shows two modes of operation, A and B. Which one should I choose?
To do this, we look at another schematic map that divides the country's territory by humidity zones:
Now let's turn to the table, which will tell you which of the modes should be chosen:
One more important remark should be made before starting the calculations. Only those layers are taken into account that provide a snug fit to each other, without ventilated air spaces. So, if the roof or wall is made with a ventilation gap, then all the layers above it are no longer taken into account. For the same reason, corrugated roofing material cannot be taken into account.
For example, roof slopes have the following design: a continuous sheathing of their plywood, on top of which a soft bitumen coating is laid. Under it is a layer of insulation (which will be calculated), and from below there is a filing with natural clapboard. This means that the calculation will take into account, in addition to thermal insulation, three more layers - bituminous coating, plywood and natural wood.
In order not to tire our readers with long calculations, we suggest using a special calculator that allows you to calculate the thickness of insulation for walls, slopes and attic floors, in the design of which, in addition to thermal insulation, there are up to three layers.
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