Laying bricks on the wooden floor. Installation of a stove in a bathhouse on a wooden floor. Building materials and tools for bricking the furnace

"And subsection" ", where we will talk about such interesting way gender like brick floor... A few words about what it is, how to make it with your own hands, and also how to care for it.

Brick flooring is an alternative to conventional flooring. You could say, "Ugh, brick floor ... where will it be used in the house?" Or you can think a little and come to the conclusion that at least a brick floor can be used wherever it is laid on the floor tile... Especially tiles imitating a brick floor 🙂

So, wherever there is tiles on the floor in the house, a brick floor can be installed equally in any of these places. As in any place where the floor is concrete. Equivalent - but not equal. Because a brick floor has two big advantages over tiles, concrete, etc. So, brick floor:

a) more picturesque,
b) much cheaper
c) durable and tough,
d) provides a non-slip and fire-resistant surface,
e) easy to maintain,
possesses a large thermal mass, which makes it possible to use “useful heat” (for more information about useful heat, see the article “Heating a house - for residents!”).

Accordingly, there really is something to talk about. And we'll start by saying what is brick floor.

A brick floor is a brick that is laid on the floor. And they are meant to be walked on. As bricks, the familiar can be shielded by everyone paving slabs... Or the most ordinary ones can fit building bricks... Brick floor is well suited for low-cost construction and storage heavy objects... Brick flooring is usually used in areas where well-fired brick is readily available.

So, we figured out what a brick floor is. Now you can go to laying a brick floor... In short, do-it-yourself brick flooring is as follows:

The bricks are sorted and moistened. On top of the moistened base of 80 grade concrete, a bed is made of lime-cement mortar with a thickness of about 2 cm.A brick is laid on the bed according to the instructions so that the width of the butt seams is 1 cm.Each brick is laid on the mortar, pressing gently on it with your hand and tapping on him with a hammer-pick. Having laid a row of bricks, align it with a rail, while simultaneously controlling the horizontal position of the row with a spirit level. The seams are poured with lime-cement mortar of the same composition as the bed mortar. From above they are rubbed with cement mortar (400 kg of cement per 1 m 3 of sand).

The second option for laying a brick floor is without cement at all, on sand. This option is more suitable for the floor in the gazebo, on the street - wherever the presence of sand is not critical.

The brick floor is laid without mortar on a sand base. The laid layer of bricks must be surrounded by a curb for fixing the masonry. The walls can act as a finished curb. Where there are no walls, pressure treated boards 50 mm thick and 20 cm wide can be used as a curb. The lower part of the boards will be in the ground, and the upper one - flush with the level of the brick floor. To prepare the base for such a floor, it is necessary to remove a 15 cm layer of earth and compact the base. Next, a layer of gravel and a two-centimeter layer of sand are added. Then the sand is leveled and the surface is compacted. The brick is laid according to the method you have chosen. To keep the bricks straight, they use stretched cords, along which they align the direction of the masonry and the level of the bricks. After that, cover the floor with sand and rub the sand into the cracks between the bricks.

The location of the brick when laying a brick floor has a significant role. A brick located with an edge is preferable to a brick located horizontally, since in the first case, a brick is less prone to cracks when applied to it with significant pressure than when a brick is placed horizontally. And also when the brick is located with an edge, the depth to which the brick is fixed increases, this allows to resist the penetration of moisture.

Now, having finished talking in general terms about laying a brick floor, let's move on to caring for it. So, in the interior of a house, a brick floor can be easily removed with a vacuum cleaner to remove dust. Light cleaning agents are used periodically to remove stains.

To seal a brick floor, roll up towels must be placed against adjacent rugs and other floor coverings to absorb water. Use a brush or large sponge with detergent, and thoroughly wash the surface of the brick floor, then thoroughly rinse the floor clean water... Rest assured that any dirty water completely removed from crevices and joints in masonry. Let the brick dry well.

At your local hardware store or paint and varnish store, ask for a masonry sealant, these are usually sold in five liter cans. it the best solution for flooring, brick covering. With the application of the sealant, your floor does not change the color of the brick and mortar joints, however, it gets a shiny surface. Apply sealant to dry bricks, being sure to cover all bricks, joints and possible cracks. Wait for the sealant to dry and apply a second coat. To maintain the sealant, a new coat must be applied every year. The sealant repels dust and other contaminants, making it easy to clean with only a damp cloth.

So, we looked at all three promised parts - what is a brick floor, how to make it yourself and how to care for a brick floor. By the way, interesting fact: brick floors were widely used in Russian architecture. As examples, one can point to the floors of the Assumption Cathedral in Vladimir (samples are available in the Historical Museum in Moscow), St. Basil's Cathedral in Moscow, and the floors in Yaroslavl churches of the 17th century. and etc.

Thus, a brick floor is a truly reliable and economical alternative.

Based on materials from http://www.brick.su/kirpich_uchod.html

Modern construction is associated with the use of combined structures. Brick, wood floors, concrete walls in one combination can combine materials that are similar in nature. In the construction of buildings, various types of brickwork are used, which can have a ventilated air cavity, provide a layer of thermal insulation on the walls or on the floor. The use of dissimilar materials in the construction of walls of buildings or laying the floor is due to the improvement in the quality characteristics of buildings.

Combination of various building materials significantly improves the quality of the building.

Brickwork is a technology for the construction of buildings and structures using bricks. In the process of masonry, strict adherence is necessary basic rules, which allows you to achieve maximum strength and solidity of structures. Since the materials have to withstand a certain level of stress, adherence to bricklaying technology is very important. Each brick wall must bear the load of its own weight, and also serve as a support for building structures, for example, the floor of the second floor. They transfer their weight to the brick walls, which in turn exert a load on the base.

Construction of combined structures

According to Russian and European construction traditions, construction two-story houses involves the construction of the first floor of stone or brick, and the second - of wood. Construction combined houses made of timber and bricks is a profitable option that allows:

reduce the cost of the building, because brick houses are very expensive;
use the advantages of brick and timber in order to reduce the load on the base;
to reduce the weight of the building, since the second floor made of timber will weigh less than the first one with brick walls;
the walls of wood on the second floor will provide recreation areas where bedrooms, etc. will be located.

Brick is a non-combustible product, and its use is justified for the installation of the floor and walls of the first floor. It is there that the kitchen, living room with a fireplace and other types of premises are located where there is an increased risk of fire. The floor and walls made of wood cool rather slowly, and they heat up quickly. The use of wood for the construction of a building will not only save heat, but also facilitate the process of heating the premises. Combined houses are often erected in summer cottages and household plots, therefore, space heating requires less fuel to be stored.

Combined houses made of timber and bricks are a profitable option, since the building will be more durable than a building erected only from a bar. Brick is not exposed to the destructive effects of moisture, therefore it is perfect material for the construction of the walls of the first floor. Brick plinth must be as reliable as possible. The presence of a second floor of a house made of wood and brick should provide the owners with an atmosphere of coziness and comfort.

Characteristics of brick floors and walls

The cost of building internal and external walls is usually up to 30% of the cost of the entire building. Each brick wall represents important element building. If we compare the walls of a building and its elements, then their weight should be 50%. The type of building structure divides walls into load-bearing and self-supporting.

Solid load-bearing external walls are erected from the material for the enclosing structures. The thickness of the walls carrying the load is dictated by calculations that determine the indicators of thermal conductivity and strength. The walls of the building are made thick, depending on their design temperature in winter period... The average temperature of the 5 coldest days of the year is taken into account.

Walls must have minimum thickness, which is accepted on the condition that the temperature in the building does not fall below 18 ° C in winter if there is heating. Unheated premises, which are adjacent to the heated ones, usually have a thickness parameter equal to 0.7 times the value of this indicator for external walls.

In the process of sizing the thickness interior walls it will be necessary to take into account their strength, sound insulation, etc. In terms of the cost of construction, the floor and walls are made of lightweight concrete will cost 1.5-2 times cheaper than brick structures. Architectural decoration outer walls houses can be characterized by varying degrees of complexity of brickwork:

Simple walls.
Medium difficulty.
Complex walls.
Especially difficult.

When erecting simple walls there are no complications in the masonry, with the exception of simple belts and cornices, the height of which is no more than 4 brick rows. If the walls are of medium difficulty, then they can occupy up to 20% of the area of the outer surface of the outer walls. For complex and especially complex structures the presence of complicated parts is characteristic, which occupy up to 40% of the front side of the walls from the outside.

In the process of reconstruction of dilapidated housing and the construction of a new one, combined walls and floors are often built in the presence of an outer layer of ceramic bricks, and an inner layer of timber.

The main advantages of brick structures are fire resistance, impact resistance, resistance to atmospheric factors. Among the positive properties of wood are low thermal conductivity, environmental friendliness, high heat capacity, bending strength.

Arrangement of the foundation for combined structures

Wood is a relatively moisture-consuming and rotting material. If the masonry is tightly attached to the timber frame, this causes condensation to form.

For example, a brick wall is covered with moisture as a result of temperature changes during the day. The formation of fungus (mold) leads to the gradual destruction of not only the wood, but also the cement mortar that holds the masonry together. To prevent negative phenomena, a ventilation device will be required in the space between the log house and the brick surface of the floor or wall. To ensure convective air movement, it is necessary to provide small holes in the lower part of the brick wall near the floor.

Brick and timber are different in density, so the loads of the log house and brickwork on the foundation are different. For example, a brick wall of 1 m by 1 linear meter. m of the foundation has a load of 200-400 kg, and a log house made of wood - no more than 150 kg. These features must be taken into account during the construction process.

Heavy base concrete requires a layer-by-layer compaction of the foundation and floor structure. If the foundation is old or partially restored, then it is dangerous to reconstruct the brickwork. In this case, it will be necessary to conduct complete replacement the foundations of the house for a new one.

Seasonal temperature fluctuations, freezing and thawing of the soil cause an increase in the load on the base. If it is equipped incorrectly, this can lead not only to its shift, but also to the appearance of tension in the entire structure. If the frame is wooden, then there may be no danger of shifting the structure. To reduce the risk of cracking of brickwork, installation is carried out necessary fixtures capable of giving the structure an additional level of rigidity. However, they will not interfere with free air ventilation.

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Combined structures of brick walls and floors, as well as a wooden frame are more complex than ordinary walls or brick or wood floors. They are widely used nowadays, but their positive characteristics will allow you to use these structures in the future.

Partitions are erected to change the internal structure of the room, fencing areas of the room, giving them greater heat and sound insulation, separation large room into separate work areas.

They differ from the wall in that they do not perform a load-bearing function, they are not subjected to vertical and horizontal loads. Partitions are mobile and stationary. From various materials and for different purposes. A brick partition is used where special strength and rigidity is required. Brickwork withstands cantilever loads well, has high moisture resistance and strength.

Let's say that in your case it is a brick partition that is needed. In this example, a partition is used to divide a room into two parts by connecting them with a doorway. For these purposes, a single-row spoon masonry in half a brick (120 mm) is sufficient. Common (single) is used solid brick... It should be borne in mind that the brick partition is heavy, which may be unacceptable for your case. For weight loss, you can use hollow brick or make a narrower partition in a quarter of a brick, but in this case, you need to take into account the features of such masonry, which, in this article, will not be described.

Knead to hold the bricks together building mixture from a mixture of cement and sand. It is assumed that you will build the partition on your own, "from scratch", without the use of special devices and tools, which means that you will have to make or find items suitable for these purposes.

First, you need the brick itself. To calculate required amount, take measurements of the proposed partition, calculate the required amount based on the size of the brick (250x120x65) and the thickness of the seam (12 mm) and transfer it directly to the place of masonry. Store the brick so that it is convenient to use it when laying it. For laying the upper rows, goats and shields may be needed.

Provide adequate lighting for the entire work area in advance. Clear the area around the intended masonry from foreign objects. On the walls to which your partition will be adjacent, you can mark its contours for clarity.

Secondly, you need sand, cement and water. The sand must be sifted, for which it is possible, from four bars and a chain-link mesh, to make a structure familiar to many. Do not throw the sand, but pour it from the shovel onto the upper part of the net, then it will not scatter, but will roll down to the bottom, sifting in an even heap.

To mix the solution, you will need a container that can be made from a leaky iron 200 liter barrel... The barrel is sawn into two halves with a grinder. Place the resulting trough on the pallet, securing and ensuring stability.

The next step is mixing the solution. It is worth clarifying a few details here. The proportions of water, sand and cement when mixing a solution depend on many factors. This is the brand of cement, and the weather, and even the estimated consumption of the solution. The mobility of the solution is taken into account - the ability of the mixture to spread under the influence of its own mass. Various additives are used to impart color, plasticity, frost resistance or longer setting time. And also many other factors affect the proportions of the components and can confuse the novice builder. In our case, we will proceed from the assumption that the case will occur at room temperature, and the requirements for the solution are moderate. Buy cement, specifying that it will be used for laying a brick partition indoors. Choose fine sand, without admixtures of clay and other rocks, be sure to sift it to get rid of possible roots, sticks and other inclusions. Take water from the tap, room temperature... The proportion of cement to sand will be 1 to 3. After pouring 6 buckets of sand and 2 cement into the trough (this is how much it fits into our trough and this, usually, just enough for an hour of laying), stir the resulting mixture a little. Make a small funnel in the center, where you start pouring water, constantly stirring the solution with a shovel.

Your solution should be creamy. It should be borne in mind that as soon as you mix it, it immediately begins to harden and settle. It is not recommended to add water to "rejuvenate" the solution, so it is advisable to adjust the amount of the mixed solution so that it is consumed within an hour, stirring it every 15-20 minutes.

We proceed to the laying itself. It is assumed that the walls of your room are brick, stone, or flooded. The floor is a slab or similar floor. If there is a wooden floor or other covering on the floor, then it must be removed in the place of masonry to the main slab, and, if present, the plaster must be chipped from the walls. Use a broom to clean the floor surface under the first row. Moisten the surface a little. You can also apply small notches to walls and floors in the place of masonry for a stronger bond to the surface of the mortar.

Pull the rope to guide you top edge first row. Check its horizontality with a level. Determine where more mortar will be needed to level the first row. Pour the solution into a suitable container, bowl or wide bucket. Stir with a trowel until smooth. Put the mortar under the first row, 2-3 cm wider than the thickness of the partition, level it with a trowel, checking it to a level, and let it grab a little.

Then renew the bed (mortar layer) by adding some more mortar. The bed should be laid out with a width of 80-100 mm, a thickness of 15-20 mm, which will provide a seam thickness of 10-12 mm. Start laying the first row. Taking a brick in your hands, apply a little mortar to its end with a trowel, with which it will press against the previous brick (for the first brick in the row it is a wall), a little mortar. Place the brick on the garden bed next to the previous brick and press it against it. Using a hammer, trowel or gloved fist, tap to level the brick, focusing on the stretched rope. Remove excess mortar with a trowel.

If a doorway is planned in your partition, then the door frame must be set up in advance. Using a level and spacers, install the door frame and lay the brick close to it, but you do not need to squeeze the brick between the previous one and the frame if it does not fit. Also, there is no need to put mortar between the box and the brick, it will still fall out due to the inevitable displacements of the box during its fastening.

The door frame will be connected to the brickwork with iron strips, which are screwed to the box with a curved tip and placed between the rows of bricks, after 5-6 rows.

Start the second row with half a brick. To do this, use a hammer-pick to break the brick into two halves. Trim the edge of the brick with it, if necessary.

Pull the rope in line to align the second row. Start the third row again with a whole brick and so on for all rows, ensuring the dressing of the masonry.

Bandaging is the order in which the bricks are laid relative to each other and is required. It provides an even distribution of the load over the entire partition, gives solidity and strength.

To bind the partition to the wall, use strips of steel, which are attached in the same way as we discussed above, when fastening door frame to the rows of bricks. Above the doorway itself, additional reinforcement must be provided. For example, you can put a typical reinforced concrete block for floors or use a channel of suitable dimensions.

Most often, there will be a gap between the last row of the partition and the ceiling. To fill it, you can use suitable pieces of broken brick, which are dipped in the mortar and laid on the garden bed. last row, as tightly as possible. The remaining cavities are also filled with mortar. For these purposes, sometimes they use tow soaked in a gypsum solution, which are carefully tamped into such gaps.

Throughout the entire process, control the horizontal and verticality of the masonry using a level, plumb lines and a rule (planted wooden lath length 1.5-2 meters). This is especially true for the case of masonry with an opening, because in this case, you put, at the beginning, two unconnected partitions, which then must be connected above the opening. The wooden box itself cannot serve as a guide to the accuracy of the masonry, and special care must be taken here, avoiding distortions and overlap of the rows.

The brick partition requires subsequent finishing. If the wall is plastered, then much attention to the solution protruding from the seams can be ignored. If you want exactly beautiful brickwork, as a design element, then when laying rows, it is necessary to remove excess protruding mortar, and also add the solution to the resulting cavities. This should be done for 20-30 minutes so that the solution retains sufficient elasticity. It is more convenient to do this with special jointing, but with a certain skill, you can do with a trowel. Again, when plastering your partition, it is not so important for you appearance brick, which means it can be used in the ranks of the inclusion of broken or already used.

Often, partitions need to provide holes for different needs... For wiring, as well as for other small diameter holes, you can use a cut of a suitable pipe, which is placed in the right place instead of brick. Pipes can be overlaid with bricks, but preferably not end-to-end and not bonded to bricks with mortar, so that, if replacement or other work is necessary, it is not necessary to destroy the solidity of the wall. Unnecessary gaps are best filled afterwards. polyurethane foam, which, if necessary, can be easily removed and suitable for plastering.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the tools and devices that were used in the masonry process. Remember to thoroughly rinse the trough, basin or buckets where the solution has been placed. They will still be useful to you. You also need to do with other tools, cleaning them from the solution.

In the construction of multi-storey private houses, a combination of dissimilar materials, in particular brick and wood, is often used. This is due to the fact that such a connection significantly improves quality characteristics buildings, provides the owners home comfort and comfort.

Design features

Due to the difference in density, moisture resistance and thermal conductivity of materials, a combined structure made of wood and brick assumes the presence ventilation device between the frame and the wall surface. So, to ensure convective air movement near the floor, it is necessary to make small holes. In addition, it should be borne in mind that brickwork creates a load of up to 400 kilograms per 1 linear meter of the foundation, and wooden blockhouse- maximum 150 kg.

Advantages and disadvantages

Brickwork in combination with wooden beams allows:

reduce material costs, since building stone- expensive pleasure;
ensure long-term operation;
reduce the load, pressure on the base;
provide quick and less costly heating of the room, since wood warms up better than brick.

If the waterproofing of the foundation is not done correctly, then between the tree and brick wall it will be damp.

Brick wall, erected on a wooden floor, has several disadvantages. If the technology of laying the foundation is violated, with a probability of 90%, condensation will form at the junction of the materials, since wood is a material subject to decay. With the accumulation of excess moisture, not only wooden structures are destroyed, but also cement mortar fastening the brickwork.

Method of laying bricks on a wooden floor

The erection of walls, partitions made of bricks on a wooden floor should be started with the preparation of the base, since wood is a rather springy material that can lead to the destruction of the structure. If the boards are located perpendicular to the intended masonry, you should saw through the necessary recess for the brick. A new lag is placed on top of it. If the beams are located parallel to the planned masonry, 2-3 boards are removed at the construction site and the embankment is removed. If there is a basement, the wall will be located on the ceiling of the cellar. If there is no subfloor, concrete is mixed for the base.

To prevent decay wooden planks need to ensure concrete base waterproofing.
After preparing the base, openings (maximum 4) are knocked out in the walls perpendicular to the future structure, 8 centimeters in width and a maximum of 40 cm in length. One and a half meters from the walls and 2-2.5 centimeters from outside masonry has vertical supports, wedging lower part... A guide is laid between them with a maximum thickness of 3 cm and a width of 15. The horizontal board should be 5 centimeters shorter than the intended structure. Boards are placed at the upper end of the racks. small size, driving in one nail at a time into their outer edge (not completely). The staples are driven into the props themselves. Next, a thin rope is tied to the nails and pulled through the clamps in the racks, fixing the counterweight at the ends. The nests in the perpendicular walls are abundantly moistened, 1 centimeter of solution is applied along the guide board.

If the weight of the heating device is within 400 kg, it is allowed to install the stove in the bathhouse on a wooden floor without constructing a free-standing foundation. The main tasks of the home craftsman are: compliance with the fire safety regulations of SP 4.13130, ensuring the comfortable operation of the building and reducing the construction budget to the lowest possible level.

The classic Russian bath has an unheated dressing room, a steam room combined with a washing room. Contemporary projects much more convenient to operate, usually have the following layout:

dressing room - the furnace of the stove usually goes into this room;
steam room - inside this room there is the stove itself and the heater;
washing room - equipped with a large-sized drain (ladder or siphon);
restroom - separate room inside the bath or in the attic.

Option for the layout of the bath and the location of the stove.

Therefore, the stoves are equipped with a remote or telescopic fuel channel, mounted inside the walls / partitions between the steam room and the dressing room, in order to heat all existing rooms, separated from each other by partitions.

Remote fuel channel of the sauna stove.

In this case, the heating device installed in this way should be isolated from the supporting / enclosing structures made of combustible material:

a sheet of iron, asbestos or any other non-combustible material(brick, clinker, porcelain stoneware);
the places where the walls / partitions adjoin to the firebox are lined with ceramic or clay bricks (cutting);
aprons or screens made of heat-resistant sheet material(can be tiled to improve the quality of the interior).

In most cases, a sauna stove has a chimney, inside which high temperatures remain, sparks are present, dangerous wooden structures building. Therefore, in the places where the chimney pipes of the floors and roofs pass, grooves filled with thermal insulation materials are mounted.

Important! The provision of a set of these measures is mandatory for wooden bath or buildings with a wooden floor, regardless of the energy source used in the heating device.

Inside the steam room itself, the stove can be positioned in different ways:

In both cases, it should be borne in mind that, according to the existing fire safety standards, the minimum allowable distance from not lined inside metal ovens up to combustible constructional materials of the walls is 1 m. The stove in the center of the steam room is very inconvenient to maintain and during steam procedures. Therefore, in 99% of cases, protective screens are used, allowing you to move the heating device to the wall as much as possible.

DIY installation

When making vertical / horizontal cuts and screens, the instructions of the sauna stove manufacturer must be followed. Specific values are specified in this document safe distances from the hull heater to combustible materials, screens, protected and unprotected wooden floors, doorways depending on the real thermal power of the stove, the nuances of its design.

For example, for some modifications of Termofor, the minimum allowable size of a brick vertical groove is 61 cm. Therefore, the oven cannot be pushed into the corner close.

Brick cutting vertical

Regardless of the layout and configuration of the bath, the installation of a factory heater with a remote fuel channel is carried out in only two ways:

The thickness of the gantry is ¼ - ½ bricks to save the construction budget. However, stove manufacturers take into account that a remote firebox can be built into thicker walls, therefore, they provide the necessary size margin.

The main difficulties in laying the groove traditionally arise in the mating nodes:

Advice! Due to the small volumes of masonry, you can use veneering ceramics to get rid of plaster and putty.

Screens

For metal sauna stoves screens of several types are used:

In addition to protecting against fire, the screens additionally decorate the furnace equipment and give the interiors a complete look.

Important! Fire screens are more often made from asbestos-containing panels / sheets or steel structures... Protective screens in 90% of cases are laid out of bricks, which is unacceptable for a wooden floor, due to the large weight. Therefore, either you will have to dismantle the grooved board and pour the foundation / floor along the ground along the outer perimeter of the screen, or use other materials and technologies.

The only option for covering from a grooved board without changing the construction of the wooden floor and casting separate foundation remains a metal sheet... However, this material has a high thermal conductivity, therefore, thermal insulation should be placed under it:

Galvanized steel sheet is attached to wooden floor self-tapping screws through a layer of thermal insulation. Instead of these materials, you can use budget asbestos cardboard (2 layers of KAON 1 cm thick, 0.8 x 1 m), PNAKH-1S asbestos canvas or AT-1 - AT-9 fabric, basalt wool.

Firewall options are:

Protective screens are of two types:

metal - Sami manufacturers care about the safety of users, produce screens made of cast iron and steel, installed through special spacers at a distance of 2 - 5 cm from the body;
brick - more comfortable to use, since it is impossible to burn yourself on the outer surfaces, large slots can be made in the masonry for convection heat transfer.

Metal shields reduce the temperature by external surfaces up to 80 - 100 degrees, which eliminates the danger of fire walls, but does not protect against burns.

Despite the conflict of two construction materials - resilient wood flooring and heavy brickwork, some individual developers use the technology:

Important! The height of the vertical protective screens is much lower than that of the fire-fighting modifications - 5 cm higher than the stove body (1 row of bricks, respectively).

Chimney cutting

Unlike brick vertical structures horizontal cutting in the places where the chimney passes through the ceiling of the bath is made of loose, cotton or slab material:

sand or expanded clay;
basalt wool;
plates PKVT, TISK, MKRP.

To fix the indicated materials in the design level of the space, galvanized or stainless steel plates with a hole in the middle are fastened with self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the sawn hole. This way, step-by-step instruction fireproof chimney cut at the level of the bath floor is as follows:

There are cuttings with their own nozzles, universal size from four sheets.

Important! The chimney sections in the bath are always joined "by smoke" and not "by condensation", that is, the bell of the upper pipe sits on the narrowed edge of the lower elbow.

Roof passage node

Unlike ceiling modifications, roofing has a more complex structure:

made of galvanized steel, polymers, non-flammable elastomers;
has an inclined plate surface and a truncated cone;
ensures the tightness of any roof covering.

For the convenience of the individual builder, each set of roof cutting is accompanied by a description of the design and installation method on different roof cladding.

Thus, the sauna stove and chimney on it on a wooden flooring House master will be able to install on its own by choosing convenient option with minimum budget and acceptable quality.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just submit in the form below detailed description works that need to be completed and offers with prices from construction crews and firms. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It is FREE and non-binding.