Cottage insulation outside. How to insulate the country house quickly, simple and with a minimum budget. Warming of the walls of the cottage outside

There are many articles today and even books. In any construction store you will tell you that it is necessary to buy for this, and any of the firms or brigades specializing in construction and finishing will offer a country house or cottage. Only here all this is not suiced ... And what if the budget is limited, but I don't want to freeze in the country? Warm using faded materials, experience and smell.

It is already cold on the street, so today we will discuss how with minimal costs (money, time and effort) noticeably reduce heat loss in a wooden house. I emphasize: wooden! For buildings from other materials, approaches may be different, although many general principles are saved.

Ways with which our home is warm

It can be installed in the home of any, the most modern, but it will be ineffective if the warmth is dried to the street. Warming is, in fact, the elimination of such leaks. Therefore, before switching to business, you need to understand where to look for the problem.

Figures that call experts can (depending on the source) varies somewhat, but in general it makes up about such a picture:

on the windows and doors accounts for 25% (according to some data - up to 30) heat loss;
10-15% disappeared through ceiling;
at least 15% goes semi;
35% (and maybe up to 50!) We lose heat through walls

We want to be warm, - it is necessary to consistently analyze all the vulnerable areas of your house, reveal leaks and get rid of them. Easy and easy, yes? No matter how much ... If you approach the question, "according to science", using modern materials and technologies, in the dwelling will certainly become much warmer and cozy, but ... the amount that will have to lay out for it will be calculated dozens, and even hundreds thousand rubles. This time we will go to another way)) Recall the grandfathers methods and try to meet in a very modest budget.

Window

Those who are installed at the cottage, this section can safely miss - it will be about wooden windows. Perhaps old. Maybe even requiring replacement. These are these at many at the cottages. However, even new wooden windows (verified!) From the cold can be protected too well, and in this there are absolute minus. What to do?

It is possible to replace the glass on the thicker, and even on the glass windasters. There is such an experience in one of our authors, and the whole process is described in detail in the material. It is possible - they will protect them from the wind and reduce the loss of heat (of course, for this you will have to keep the shutters closed). But both of these methods are also quite laborious, require time and financial costs.

We use old methods - without changing anything, we will insulation what is:

with the help of a special sealant or frame lubrication, we strengthen the joints of the glass with the window frame. If necessary, change (put in return to the lost) stapper;
if there are cracks on the glasses, it would be better to replace them; If it is impossible, the usual stationery tape, pasted on top of the crack straight on the glass (Note: If it is wet or frozen, the tape will not hold on);
if the outdoor temperature has not fallen below zero, glue around the perimeter of all frames insulation - PVC or rubber (if glued at low temperatures, the self-adhesive insulation hold onto the frames will not be either, but very bad);
cock all the cracks in the frames using cotton (from the old mattress, for example), trimming of foam rubber or batting, newspaper paper, and the like fir-handed materials;
we rush it all on top with paper stripes (purchased - with adhesive layer - or homemade);
if the doubles are double, at the bottom between them you can pave cotton or any other insulation, making a neat roller from it.

If everything is done neatly and efficiently, and the frames are not too old, it will be quite enough. If, despite all the efforts, the window does not evenly blow away, or just reluctance to mess with singeling and ripping, you can use at all simple way, given, however, an excellent effect.

A piece of polyethylene film will be required (a little longer in size than the window) and the furniture stapler with brackets (for the absence of a stapler - a hammer, a stroke or a narrow rail and small nails). I fix the film around the perimeter of the window (between the frame or on the side of the room - depending on the frame structure and your own desire). And all! If you use a stapler, one window will take about 15 minutes (who has a skill - and is less). The film serves as a barrier on the path of cold air and drafts and does not allow heat to float from us through the window.

Minus this method: Open the window to ventilate the room, you can no longer. It is worth thinking about it in advance and not "stupid" all windows are tightly - ventilation is needed even in winter. Well, those who love to look out on the window, this option is also not suitable: only blurred contours of the surrounding landscape will be visible through the film. But here you have to choose what is more important ...

Doors

Warm makes sense and outdoor door, and interroom, especially leading in cold utility rooms or an entrance hall. Our main task is eliminate gapwhich sooner or later are formed between the door and the box. And with this you can cope with enough ways:

put seals (this option is suitable if the slots are small);
if it blows out of the door - to fix a special sealing brush on it (buy a finished product or make your own hands from thick rubber or other girlfriends)
hang a dense curtain.

If you need a fast and efficient way, it is the last option that is most successful. The main thing is that the material of the curtains is really dense (summer sieve curtains from the cold will not save us). Such an element of insulation is able to become a bright and original part of the decor of the room. Well, if you are not worried about little, you can use even old woolen or cotton blankets.

Here, perhaps, someone contemptuously wrinkles the nose: "Fi, old-fashioned!" - Well, because sometimes it is precisely such old-fashioned things better than modern "frills". I will give an example from practice. In a new house, I have a large (approximately 1.5 x 2 m) opening in the wall, which separates the warm living room from a cool hallway. Doors or some other fundamental structures in this opening so far in my plans are not included, but the heat saved somehow necessary ... There was an old plush curtain just a suitable size. Many told me: "What is it in it? All warmth will still go to the gap between the wall and the ceiling, and the curtain will not hold anything. " But since none of the advisers did not suggest anything better, all the past winter, this curtain worked safely. The difference in the temperatures in the premises that it separated could reach up to 3-4 degrees. And in the rustic summer house, I have an entrance door in a warm (residential) part, part of it always walked with a cotton blanket - it is extremely simple, but efficiently.

Ceiling

I will say a few words at once. Today he is considered almost obligatory. Meanwhile, take a look at the old rustic houses - you will find a lot of insulated roofs there? And in a holted hut and in the bubble frost heat. Why?

The insulation of the roof makes sense if the second floor (attic) is residential. If it's just a attic, then focus on heat ceiling (overlaps). Even those who are familiar with physics badly, for sure it is known: warm air is lighter than cold, and therefore rises up. And breaks into the atmosphere through the slots in the ceiling, if any. The ceiling that does not allow the heat to "escape" from the house - one of the most important items of good insulation.

Perhaps the most economical and simple option will be foam. But, from my point of view, its advantages and advantages on that and are exhausted. It is suitable if you need to warm up quickly and quite inexpensively (though, save on the quality of the material and choose a foam with minimal density, I would not advise; optimally - PSB-C 25).

I will not go into details - this topic can safely devote a separate article. I just say if you want better warming, buy polystyrene foam plates with milled edge - They are joining the mustache. Attempts to firmly adjust the usual smooth edges of the plates are doomed to failure: there will still be slots between them, which, when shrinking wooden supporting structures, can also increase. Well, through these slits, it goes without saying precious warmth.

Is there an alternative? Within the framework of a limited budget - I'm afraid that there is no (if there are special builders who will correct me, I will be extremely grateful: for me this question has a great practical value. Earthly dumping, which was used in old village houses, is now practically not used.

Sometimes you can meet the recommendations Close the ceiling from the inside penophol (Options: anti-energoflex and the like). It is really fast, simple and relatively inexpensive (depending on the material brand and its manufacturer). But (the subjective opinion of the amateur - do not judge strictly)) I still think that this is not the best option for residential premises ... Who tried - let's discuss in the comments, share your experience and impressions. I especially want to find out how such insulation can affect the level of humidity in the room (is the condensate forms on such a ceiling?)

Floor

Cold floor - trouble of most wooden houses. Today there are many ways to resolve this problem, but today, as you remember, talking about the most simple and cheap options. Therefore, the topic, for example, we will not be considered. And what then can you do?

The first is to insulate residential premises around the perimeter: no matter how well the floor fit and the plinth is selected, the gap between the floor and the wall exists. If the basement is not insulated, the cold air will penetrate from these gaps from below. And here it is just a foam to help us: the strips of this material (foil layer inside the room) are fixed using a furniture stapler (or small nails, if there is no stapler) so that one edge can enter the wall, and the other lay on the floor. Quickly, simple - and in the room it becomes noticeable warmer. Check!

Use foam and for continuous heat insulation of the floor (here already who does it: someone fixes it from the basement side, someone uses instead of a substrate for flooring, but the reviews I heard only positive and from those and from others).

The second is the floor surface. Household rugs in rustic houses, in addition to the decorative function, have a purely practical: this is an additional insulation. So if there is carpets, palaces, paths and mats - Welcome them to the floor, and it will be warm for you))

Walls

As we remember, it is through the walls from the house the maximum amount of heat leaves. And here I have bad news: insulation the wooden walls quickly, it will not be easy and cheap. If we want the house to live for a long time, you need to do on September 7, 2016
Specialization: finishing of facades, interior decoration, construction of cottages, garages. Experience and gardener and gardener experience. There is also experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: the game is not a guitar and a lot more, to which there is not enough time :)

The insulation of the house outside is, on the one hand, a fairly simple procedure, from which you can cope with yourself, without even having any experience. But, on the other hand, this operation causes a lot of questions, besides, it requires strict compliance with technology, otherwise the result will not meet your expectations. Therefore, below, I will describe you several ways to make outdoor insulation as efficiently possible and without prejudice to the structure.

Methods of outdoor insulation

Many people who are first faced with insulation, do not know how best - from the inside or outside the heat insulation. According to SNiP, 3.03.01-87 in private houses for a number of reasons it is necessary to perform precisely external heat insulation:

if there is a heat insulator from the inside, the walls will freeze even more than before insulation. Moreover, heat-insulator will be formed in the space between the wall and the insulation;
from the inside it is impossible to ensure the heat insulation of the overlap, as a result of which the insulation is incompletely obtained;
internal thermal insulation reduces residential space.

Thus, the answer to the above question is unambiguous - internal insulation is performed only in cases of extreme necessity.

So, if you decide to insulate the house outside with your own hands, you will need dry thermal insulation material for these purposes in the form of plates or mats. As a rule, mineral wool or polystyrene foam is used as insulation. With their help, you can warm the facade in several ways:

wet facade - The technology lies in gluing the insulation and applying plaster over it. This method is widespread due to the relative cheapness. Its disadvantage is the low strength of the facade and the short times, compared with other finishes;

hinged facade - It is a framework to which the facade materials are attached (siding, lining, facade or other). In this case, the insulation is located in the space between the finishing material and the wall. This finish is more durable, but at the same time costs more expensive;
facing insulating blockswhich can be made of arbolit, foam concrete, gas-silicate, etc. It must be said that the thermal insulation properties of these materials are worse than the foam or, for example, mineral wool. But they have higher strength.

If, for example, you need to insulate the old wooden or country skeleton house, then this method of insulation is the best solution. Moreover, insulation blocks can be combined with other heat insulators.

Decide how and how to insulate the house outside everyone should, depending on the situation, financial opportunities and wishes regarding the design of the facade. As you see, each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Below we consider more details all the above insulation options.

Wet facade

First of all, I will tell you how to perform a wet facade. To do this, you will need the following materials:

insulation in the form of mats or plates (minvat, expanded polystyrene or extruded polystyrene foam);
special dowels for insulation ("fungi");
glue for insulation;
aluminum perforated corners
fiberglass mesh;
primer;
decorative plaster;
paint.

Before buying the thermal insulator, people are always interested - the better to insulate the house outside? If the house is brick or made of other non-combustible materials, you can save and use foamflast. If the structure is wooden, it is necessary to use mineral wool that will serve as fire protection.

The process of installing the insulation does it look like this:

first of all, you need to prepare the facade to work - dismantle all the elements that will interfere with the installation of the insulation;
then it is necessary to dissolve glue with water according to the instructions that are on the package;
next, the glue is applied to the surface of the insulation with the help of a toothed spatula. If the walls are uneven, you can apply glue "blooming" in the corners and in the center, which will give more opportunities to align the plates relative to each other.

It should be noted that at this stage it is necessary to provide a flat vertical surface of the walls, so in the process of gluing the insulation you need to use the level and lighthouses (horizontally stretched thread along the wall, according to each row of heat insulator);

next, the insulation is additionally fixed by dowels. To do this, the walls are drilled directly through the plates or mats. You need to score dowels so that they are recessed and not discharged above the wall surface;

according to the same scheme, the slopes are glued, the only one, they are not fixed by the dowels;
after that, the license of the walls should be checked by the rule, if necessary, individual sections can be lost grater;
after that, perforated aluminum corners are glued on all external angles;
then glue smeared the hats of the screws;
the next step is to glue the grid. To do this, use the same glue that is applied with a spatula to the surface of the insulation. A grid is immediately applied to the treated surface and a spatula is carried out, with the result that it is taken out in the adhesive composition.

I note that a pre-grid should be cut on the web required lengths, taking into account the fact that it should be placed in the corner and with corners;

after drying, the glue is re-applied to the surface of the walls with a thin layer. In order for the composition to be smoothly, the solution must be made more liquid than for gluing;
when the glue dries, the surface is processed by primer using a painting roller. The composition is applied in two navigations;

after drying the soil, decorative plaster is applied to the surface and smoothed by a small one. When the composition begins to collapse, the plaster is maintained by a small circular or reciprocating movements;
the final stage is painting. In this procedure there is nothing complicated - the roller must be dipped in the bath with paint and then process them with the wall. Paint is applied in two layers.

On this work is completed. It should be noted that on this technology, not only a private house can be inspired, but also an apartment.

Hinged facade

It is not more difficult to perform onto the mounted facade than wet. To do this, prepare the following materials:

insulation in the form of mats or plates;
metallic profile or wooden bar for mounting frame;
adjustable brackets;
vapor barrier film;
dowel for insulation;
finishing material for the facade.

Many people are confident - the cheaper heat insulator, the better. However, the same mineral wool or foam is of different quality. For example, a cheap minvat may be exposed to moisture, and the foam can easily be fought and maintaining combustion, so the materials are better to use from well-known brands, even if they are not the cheapest.

Instructions for insulation looks like this:

after preparing the facade, it is necessary, first of all, perform installation. There are quite a lot of options for its design and location in it. Most often fasten the racks on the brackets, between which mats or plates are located.
It must be said that the installation of the frame is the most responsible stage, since the evenness of the walls depends on it. Therefore, all racks need to be located in one vertical plane;

then the insulation is laid between the racks and is fixed by dowels;
next over the insulation, a vapor barrier film is fastened. As a rule, it is fixed on the frame. To do this, you can use the rails that are mounted horizontally, the film is located between them and racks;
at the end of operation, the framework is trimmed with a facade material, after which there are challenges - lowers, corners, etc.

On this, the installation of the mounted facade is completed with its own hands.

Facing insulating blocks

If you need to insulate the old one, for example, a chopped house, it is better to build additional walls for it that will serve and insulation. Of course, for this you will have to spend more time and strength, but the result fully justifies these costs.

Options than you can bind walls there are quite a lot. The most common materials, it is:

blocks from Sibita (it is correct to say aerated concrete, as Sibit is the name of the enterprise, which in the people began to call the material produced by him);
arbolite blocks - made of wood chips mixed with cement;
gasilicate blocks - resemble aerated concrete, however, it is based on lime from their composition. In addition, this material is obtained by an autoclave way;
from polystyrenebetone - contain in its structure the pellets of foam;
from the ceramzitobetone - contain in its structure the granules of the clay.

In order for you to determine the materials yourself and understand, for example, the better from the gas-silicate block in comparison, for example, with aerated concrete, below I will give a table with the basic characteristics of these materials:

As we see, some materials won in strength, others in thermal conductivity. For example, the gas-silicate block is more durable than arbolite, but at the same time it is a higher thermal conducting.

Of course, the price of the material is an important choice factor. Arbolite blocks cost about 4,000 rubles per cube, about the same amount is also polystyrene concrete material. The price of gas-silicate is a little cheaper - about 3,000 rubles per cube.

House cladding technology looks like this:

on the perimeter of the house, a small-breeding foundation is performed. On our portal you can find detailed information about the arrangement of such a foundation;
the foundation is then hydroizing several layers of rubberoid;
next, the wall is built around the perimeter of the house. Since the blocks have large dimensions, make the masonry much easier than the brick. However, in any case, it is necessary to ensure that they lie down exactly and in the same plane, so in the process of work it is necessary to use the level, plumbing and lighthouses;

if a wooden country house is facing, pins, which are pre-clogged into the wooden wall, are facing in a cladding wall. Pitch pins should be about a meter-one and a half.

Walls erected from thermal insulation blocks need further finish, for example, plastering. Therefore, this insulation technology is rarely applied. Most often it is used in cases when you need to strengthen and insulate the garden house.

If the same procedure is required for a residential building, you can bind it with bricks, and lay the mineral mats between the walls. Of course, the costs in this case will be significantly higher, but it will not need additional finishes, and the structure will acquire a solid and presentable view.

Here, in fact, all the options for outdoor insulation of houses with which I wanted to familiarize you.

Output

As we found out, there are several ways of effective outdoor insulation of houses that have their own advantages and disadvantages. Regardless of technology that will be optimal for you, you can cope with this task yourself. The main thing is not to disrupt the sequence of actions described above and perform work carefully.

Additional information contains video in this article. If in the process of insulation you will encounter any difficulties or some moments you are not fully understood, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

September 7, 2016.

If you want to express your gratitude, add clarification or objection to ask the author - add a comment or tell me thanks!

Our houses lose almost half of the heat because of blowing it through windows and doors. Up to 40% of the heat literally disappears through the cold walls. Realizing and feeling this fact, did you decide to warm the walls of the walls outside of your home? Well, the costs of these works with interest will pay off in the near future - your loved ones will be warm and cozy, and accounts for gas or electricity thanks to the warming of walls outside the house will become much smaller.

It is the insulation of the walls of the private house outside, and not from the inside, - the most effective way to make your home is really warm and at the same time prevent excessive moisture condensation on the walls: the incorrectly calculated "dew point" often enhances the accumulation of moisture on the walls of insulated from the inside of the house.

In addition, loss from each wall of 5 centimeters of the square, as well as complete exemption and thorough preliminary preparation of the internal vertical surfaces push the choice in favor of the insulation of the walls of the private house outside.

The insulation layer becomes a barrier between the cold outer air and the inner microclimate of the house. Another plus - insulated walls of the house outside will be additionally protected from moisture and sunlight, which means they will serve and will not require an update longer.

So, the insulation of the walls of the house outside has the following advantages compared to internal insulation:

all internal space of the house is stored to a millimeter;
walls are not subject to sharp temperature drop, the humidity level is saved in approximately one level.

When the walls of the walls are insulated outside, some features should be taken into account:

it is necessary to install forests and after work to dismantle them - this is an extra time and means;
in the rain and strong wind, as well as during the cold season, it is impossible to carry out;
the appearance of the building will change.

How to insulate the walls of the frame house outside

Often, during operation, it is necessary to make an additional warming of the walls of the frame house outside. Frame houses are typical low-rise buildings in the architecture of Northern Europe and Scandinavia. Wooden beams that serve as a frame for such houses are a characteristic element of the European homes for a long time. Frame houses are lightweight, fast in creating, and resemble a sandwich. The frame is filled with heat, moisture and wind insulation materials, which, according to special technology and sequences, are attached to each other and from the outside are trimmed with plaster, timber or tile. Most often, the insulation of the walls of such a skeleton house is carried out outside with foam plates.

Initially, the walls are preparing - purified from dirt and dust, align, soaked. The foam glue with a special glue, the walls themselves and foam plates are also treated. For a more durable fastening of the material when the framework of frame walls is insulated, special plastic dowels are used - "umbrellas".

The insulation of the frame walls outside continues to apply the protective layer to the foam - in two layers on the reinforcing grid, put a putty, and at the end of the plaster, it becomes an additional protection with a sharp change of temperatures.

Competent warming of walls outside a wooden house

Eco-friendly and lightweight house from a bar or logs - an excellent choice for summer. But if you decide to spend time and winter there, you have to make insulation walls outside a wooden house. Then thin walls will not give heat very quickly, and the wooden structure will become all-season.

Wall insulation outside such a wooden house begins with the installation of the frame - wooden bars are stuffed vertically at the same distance from each other. Between the bars, fiberglass is tight. The next layer is transverse bars and again fiberglass between them.

With the insulation of wooden walls, it should not even be a minimum gap between the bars, insulation and the wall. The insulation of wooden walls is ends outside with finishing works and here it is just necessary to leave a small one - up to 5 cm. The gap between the thermal insulation layer and the finishing material for ventilation.

How does the insulation of the walls outside the brick house?

Preparing to carry out insulation of walls outside the brick house, are you confused in the proposals existing on the market? In fact, the insulation of walls outside of any brick house can be carried out using different materials - it is mineral, and glass gamble, and polystyrene foam, and foaming, as well as special thermal insulation plasters and paints.

At the same time, if the mineral wool and the polystyolster can even be applied independently when the walls are insulated outside the brick house, then fiberglass, foamizole, thermal insulation plaster can effectively use only professional wizards. In any case, taking care of the insulation of the walls outside the brick house, you need to consult in detail with different specialists. It is better, of course, if the calculations will hold an experienced designer who can take into account the totality of a wide variety of factors.

Technology of insulation walls outside: there is from what to choose

Today there is not one technology of insulation walls outside.

Consider the most commonly used technologies of insulation walls outside:

Well method - Walls are insulated in the construction process, the insulation is laid inside the walls.

Of this technology, the relative cheapness, high-quality thermal insulation, fire safety. Disadvantages - it is difficult to check the condition of the insulation, ten years after construction, the quality of thermal insulation can significantly decrease.

Warming of the foundation and basement - It is used to reduce heat loss due to the freezing of soil. The insulation becomes a layer between the foundation or basement walls and the soil. The insulation (most often extruded polystyrene foam) is glued to the walls with special mastic, and then falls asleep with soil. In additional protection with such technology insulation of walls outside the material does not need material, as it practically does not absorb moisture. Also, due to high strength, this material can withstand very large loads.

If the base walls are insulated, the plaster or other decorative facing can be applied to expanded polystyrene foam.

Technology "Wet facade". When it is used, thermal insulation is placed in several layers. Initially, the insulation is glued or fixed - mineral wool with a density of at least 80 kg per m2 or foam with a density of at least 30 kg per m2. Then the reinforced grid is attached, over which the primer is applied and then plaster or paint.

It is important that all materials that are used in this technology insulation of walls outside corresponded to each other in terms of hygroscopicity, paronomy, frost resistance.

Ventilated facade - Technology of the insulation of walls outside, which is used both during the construction of a new house and insulation of the existing one. A lamp is mounted on the wall surface, between the rails of which the sheets of thermal insulation are mounted, everything is covered with a special film, which does not let the water in the middle, but does not prevent the steam output. The facade panels are attached from above - ceramic or vinyl siding.

It is important that there are at least 25 mm distances for ventilation between facing panels and the film. Check the condition of the insulation or replace it can be easily - just remove the top panels.

Polyurethane spraying. It is applied from special sprayers to any surface, including the external walls of the house. Despite the simplicity of technology, it can only be done by specialists with high qualifications.

How to choose material for insulation walls outside

The development of modern technologies constantly offers an improved material for insulation of walls outside.

The most commonly used materials for insulation of walls outside:

Polyfoam (or polystyrene foam) - Plastic containing many air bubbles is produced in plates, as well as other forms.
Mineral wool - Material that is obtained from silicate melts of metallurgical slags and rocks has a fibrous structure, it happens in rolls and plates.
Fiberglass (glass) - Material similar to Minvatu is made of glass industries, it happens in rolls and plates.
Extruded (extruded) expanded polystyrene - It is manufactured by extrusion from the polyterol.

So, we reviewed the basic materials and technologies used in the modern construction world for the insulation of the outer walls of houses made from various building materials. We hope that with the help of these tips you will take the most correct solution for your case and your home will be filled with warmth and comfort.

Country house - a place for the soul, where you can relax with your family on weekends. I want rest to bring only pleasant emotions, especially in winter and spring periods, when the sun does not give enough heat. What to do, so that in the country house it was warm and cozy?

Today we will tell you how to save on heating with the help of the insulation of the country house, and what materials it is better for this.

Stages of complex house insulation

The house can be insulated in several stages: make thermal insulation of facades, take care of the roof and do not forget about the basement if you are going to use it, for example, as a room for exercising on simulators.

Step number 1: Warm facade

Making the thermal insulation of the facade can be three ways: from the inside of the house, outside and intravenously. The first option is rarely used, since, first of all, this method eats square meters of living space, which do not want to lose at all. In addition, it is possible to accumulate moisture between the insulation and the cold wall.

More often use external insulation of facades. Moreover, the materials for the realization of this task today in the Russian market an incredible amount. So difficulties in search will not arise.

And the most popular today is the use of multilayer structures - internal insulation, when the insulation is placed on the outside of the house, closing siding or facing brick.

Stage number 2: Thermal insulation of the roof

Not everyone immediately think that it is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the roof. Through it is a significant part of the heat. And with the help of thermal insulation, you can turn the attic area into a full-fledged residential room. As you can see, some advantages!

Fire resistance, durability, durability and stability - such requirements should be the thermal insulation of the roof. Softy requirements are presented for pitf roofs. The main thing is that the so-called "cold bridges", which appear due to the shrinkage of the material. Therefore, in order to insulation such roofs, fiberglass plates and mats are used, the density of which is from 15 to 30 kg / m³. But if it comes to a flat roof, then special attention is paid to the materials.

The mechanical strength is taken into account, in particular, on compression and separation of the layers. Ideal for this, plates from extruded polystyrene foam. Prevent the swollen roofing carpet and condensation will help a vapor insulation layer of materials such as polypropylene or polyethylene.

Step number 3: take care of warmth in the basement

If your basement is not heated, then with insulation, it is possible to maintain a plus temperature in it throughout the year. And if you have a heated basement, then its thermal insulation will save you the means and reduce the heat loss. For these purposes, the external thermal insulation of all elements of the building, which come into contact with the soil, are most often used.

How to insulate the house?

Now that you know your approximate plan for insulation at home, you need to think about what materials you will implement it.

They can be classified by combustibility, thermal conductivity, form, appearance, stiffness and structure. Also, insulation materials are divided into: inorganic - foam glass, cellular thermal insulation concrete, glass wool, etc.; Organic - vermiculitis, asbestos, perlite, glass, silica, etc.

The leaders among thermal insulation materials in Russia today are insulation, created on the basis of stone vary and fiberglass. They are also called mineral fibrous insulation.

Popular types of thermal insulation materials

Consider more of the types of thermal insulation materials that are most often used in the insulation of country houses.

Mineral wool

This material has a number of positive properties that distinguish it from all others: high sound insulation, thermal insulation, non-causing, non-hygroscopicity, ease of installation, environmental friendliness, biological and chemical resistance, temperature deformation resistance.

In addition to the listed qualities, mineral wool, contacting metals does not cause them corrosion. With the help of mineral wool insulation, you can create a good climate in your home. All due to the fact that they repel water and do not allow moisture to penetrate the building.

The definition of "mineral wool" often falls - slag, basalt and glass wool. Mineral raw materials are used in the production of all these species.

For slag - these are domain slags - glass are made from limestone, soda and sand, and when creating basalt, gabbobasalt mineral rocks are used.

Foam concrete and aerated concrete

These materials are often used to build low-rise buildings and as insulation. They are not afraid of dampness and high temperatures, perfectly soundly insulated and easily mounted. Such insulation are able to withstand up to 7 hours of unilateral impact of fire. They are easy to handle and store - aerated concrete and foam blocks are not exposed to aging or rotting.

Its porous structure has closed, deaf pores, so the movement of air inside it is simply impossible. It has a low melting point and high smoke-forming ability.

Summer is the best time to think about winter, especially if you are owner of a country real estate and do not want to spend a whole condition for home heating in the cold months. And if so, then it's time to take a job and immediately proceed to the device of facade insulation.

There is a logical question: why is it necessary to insulate the walls just outside?

There are good reasons for that. Internal thermal insulation reduces the precious useful area of \u200b\u200bthe house. In addition, with the insulation of the facades, the golden rule of heat engineering is observed: the layers in the enclosing design should be located in the order of increasing thermal insulation capacity.

Otherwise, there will be a skew - internal pairs, bypassing the home insulation, will "rest" in the cold wall and turn into condensate. Dampness - Paradise of mold, fungi and other malicious flora.

With a similar situation, the comfort of premises at least is doubtful. Of course, if there is no other exit, then insulate from the inside (for example, the walls of angular apartments), but the country house is not the case.

Our advice
Installation of a facade system precedes the preparation of the base surface.
The walls are purified from layers, align and strengthen with special soil and repair makers.
The deviation from the vertical and horizontal should not exceed 1-1.5 mm per 1 lineage meter of the wall. If curvature significantly exceeds the regulatory value, the walls should be aligned with plastering.

The best thing, if the facade insulation is provided by the project. Such a move allows to reduce the estimate cost of construction.

The thickness of the outer walls is determined, based on the conditions for ensuring the strength and stability of the structure, and the responsibility for saving heat is shifted to external thermal insulation. But more often existing buildings need in facade insulation.

They also get the winnings - reducing heating costs and a favorable microclimate in the house. In construction practice, two main facade insulation systems are used: heat-insulating-connected (plaster, wet type) and mounted. In addition, the combined method is used.

Like alleged

The heat-insulating-bound system includes glue compositions, plaster and reinforcing grids (they provide fixation of the heat insulating layer, as well as protection from external influences).

In order for the front insulation tightly held on the walls, the proprietary complexes should be used, that is, a set of components released by one manufacturer (Rockfacade from Rockwool, Denmark-Russia; "Warm Wall" from Knauf, Germany-Russia; Capatect from Caparol, Baucolor from Baucoior; Ceresit From Henkel Bautechnik - Both Germany, Weber.therm. Cottage, Brand Weber-Vetonit International Concern Saint-Gobain, etc.). "Aliens" products may not fit in a friendly family of "native" materials, which will lead to partial detachment or even the destruction of the thermal insulation system.

The heat-insulating plates are glued to the walls with special mineral glue and additionally fixed with facade dowels.

The first row is installed on an aluminum rail. The insulation is mounted without breaks and emptiness. True, there are narrow slots between polystyrene foam plates, which are filled with mounting foam. The thermal insulation cladding is caused by a polymer-modified adhesive mixture into which alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh is taken. Next, another layer of mineral glue and decorative coating (structural plaster, facade paint and ceramic tiles, etc.). If all the work do strictly according to the instructions, the warm facade of wet type seems to be merged with an outer wall, will become a stable basis for the embodiment of architectural ideas in any stylistry.

Aerial movements

Mounted facade systems are arranged differently. Their composition includes mineral heat insulation, which is filled with the frame attached to the walls, formed from the rails. Such a wall frame is part of the substructure carrying not only the insulation slabs, but also a protective-decorative screen. There is a ventilated space between the thermal insulation layer and the external "solid" (here is the other name of the system - the ventilated facade), in which the "tamed" breeze blows down under the action of thrust. Air flows weather water, be it crowded raindrops or thickened couples. In addition, the air layer is "classical" heat trap.

Holding the heat energy is redistributed along the facade area, which creates an additional warming "attachment" for the facade.

Mounted systems are manufactured and equipped in the factory conditions according to the customer's drawings. The protective and decorative screen is formed from siding or tile, imitating stone or brickwork.

However, manufacturers offer other finishes. Nobody will take a country house with a ventilated facade or, say, shopping pavilion.

Such cottages look quite traditionally and organically fit into rural idyll.

Wooden modern

The houses from a solid non-public cluster are often elevated on the insulation of the walls outside.

Minerality thermal insulation is placed between wooden slats attached to the facades or guide from the galvanized metal profile. Then stretch the hydraulic projection membrane and mounted a decorative screen. Usually vinyl siding acts in this role. As a result, it turns out a very pretty, warm and inexpensive house with all the advantages of the wooden structure.

Folk art

In the frequent sector, a very spread received a symbiosis of the mounted system and plaster facade. As a protective screen, we use with a waterproof sheet material - cement-loading plates (CSP), orientable stoves (OSP), glass magnetic sheets (CML), etc.

The seams between the sheets are carefully putty. The updated facades are plastering, ground, and then apply a decorative coating (facade paint, structural plaster, artificial stone, ceramic tiles, etc.), that is, they come exactly the same as when finishing the heat-insulating system on wet type.

At the same time, on the impermeability, the plastered mounted facade will not yield to the brick facing wall. A galvanized steel profile is used for the under-construction device, which can be purchased in any construction supermarket together with the packages of heat-insulating plates and the hydraulic protection membrane. In other words, the combined method allows to significantly save on the facade insulation of the cottage.

Simultaneous solution

If you need to quickly insulate and decorate the house, it makes sense to take advantage of effective and aesthetically attractive thermopanels. The basis of these products is a plate of dense polystyrene foam 40-100 mm thick or polyurethane foam with a thickness of 25-40 mm.

Some models also have a rigid substrate from an OSP, which provides facade insulation additional strength and geometric stability.

Simultaneous solution

If you need to quickly insulate and decorate the house, it makes sense to take advantage of effective and aesthetically attractive thermopanels.

At the heart of these products - a plate of dense polyureto-leaferol with a thickness of 40-100 mm or polyurethane foam with a thickness of 25-40 mm. Some models also have a rigid substrate from an OSP, which provides facade insulation additional strength and geometric stability.

On the outside of the thermopanels are lined with thin-walled clinker bricks, porcelain stoneware, glazed or an affected ceramic tiles, artificial stone.

Installation starts from the markup of the base surface (smooth and clean) and fastening the starting aluminum profile, to which the angular, and then ordinary thermopanels are installed. To the wall panel insulation fasten with self-drawing. The joints are filled with mounting foam, and at the final stage - a colored mineral grout.

Unity and struggle of insulation

Mineral thermal insulator is durable, vaporosham (that is, it does not interfere with the walls of "breathing"), resistant to biological striking and fires (prevents the spread of fire and thereby increases the fire safety of the building).

The alternative is the facade polystyrene - costs cheaper and at the same time noticeably superior to stone and glass gamble on heat engineering.

However, the polymer thermal insulator is lit (although it relates to difficult and self-fading materials) and almost does not miss steam.

For the considerations of fire safety on a polystyrene foam "Field" make mischiefs from mineral wool.

In addition, windows and doors are framed by the "stone" insulation.