How to make a monolithic staircase with your own hands drawings. Do-it-yourself monolithic concrete staircase in a private house. Concrete Stair Pouring Guide

Of all architectural structures that are found in construction two-story houses, one of the most difficult is the staircase. Firstly, it should be noted that this element of the room must be highly reliable, meet certain standards for its safe operation, be beautiful and comfortable. Secondly, the most difficult of all the proposed structures is a concrete staircase to the second floor. It would be easier to install wood or metal.

Why is this option better than the rest? To begin with, concrete is better than all other materials to withstand intensive use. Such a staircase does not creak and does not dry out over time. There is a possibility with the help concrete mortar to embody the most original and non-standard options.

These can be classic flights of stairs, screw structures or any other compound variations. The most varied finishes can be used. Plus, it is a monolithic construction.

As mentioned above, models staircase structures a lot. Anyone who decides to build this architectural element with his own hands must understand that complex stairs require experience in carrying out this type of work. This is especially true for formwork. It will be very difficult to assemble it exactly according to the shape and geometry of the structure.

Therefore, beginners are advised to make single-flight stairs to the second floor. But when you master this option, and the end result will fully meet the requirements of operation, you can move on to more complex designs. For example, two-march, screw, and so on.

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Construction stages

Pouring concrete stairs to the second floor is divided into several stages. Each of them has special requirements.

Payment

There are certain standards for staircases, determined by SNiPs:

the minimum width of the march is 90 cm;
the height of the steps is 17 cm;
step width 30 cm, this size provides a comfortable climb up the stairs;
the angle of inclination of the structure itself is 30º, at non-standard solutions, for example, to reduce the size architectural element- 45º;
the height of the staircase itself is determined from the calculation of all layers (heat, waterproofing, decoration) on the first and second floors.

There are certain standard step size ratios. In this case, it is considered so that two values of the height of the step plus its width should vary from 60 to 64 cm.

Concrete staircase - the structure is very heavy. Even a small one will weigh at least 1.5 tons. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the structure and build a reliable base for it. The calculation here is as follows: the entire structure in the form of a monolith must create a pressure of 1 kg / cm².

The best option is to pour a 10 cm thick concrete screed onto well-tamped soil. If the weight of the structure exceeds 2.5 tons, then it is recommended to fill in a free-standing foundation under it.

This is the most difficult operation in the whole process. For the construction of the formwork you need:

boards with a thickness of 30 mm or moisture resistant plywood 20 mm;
timber 100 × 100 mm;
plywood with a thickness of 9 mm for creating curved surfaces.

If the concrete staircase leading to the second floor rests on one of the walls, then this simplifies the assembly process itself. For this, the contours of the future structure are applied to the wall exactly according to the dimensions planned by the project and calculations. Beams are installed along them, which are attached to the wall with dowels. The strength of the fastener is very important here, so you cannot save on it.

Exactly the same contour is assembled from the wall to the width of the span, which is installed on the racks from the timber. After that, the two contours are connected along the lower planes with plywood or boards. Further, the contours themselves are connected to each other from above by crossbars from wooden slats... That is, a rigid structure is assembled without cracks and gaps. Some craftsmen install additional racks under the stepped spans, thereby increasing the strength of the timber structure.

There is a simplified formwork construction option. To do this, it is necessary to cut out kosoura from the boards, one of which is attached to the wall, the second is installed on the racks. It is important here to place both elements exactly in the same plane. Bottom stringers are sheathed with plywood.

Kosoura are elements of a staircase (besides, bearing ones) in the form of a comb, if you look at them from the side. The shape of the kosour determines the shape of the steps of the stairs.

Laying the frame

Any concrete structure, including stairs, must comply certain requirements the strength of the poured concrete. Therefore, a metal lattice must be installed in its monolith, which will serve as a reinforcing cage. It is made from reinforcement with a diameter of 8-12 mm.

There are two ways to lay the frame:

for the entire span;
along the sections, fastening the lattices together with a knitting wire.

The first option is a little more complicated in that it is simply inconvenient to install the grille. We'll have to involve several assistants. In the event that a staircase is being built to the second floor of several flights, then only the second option is applied. To increase the strength of the structure, you can install a double lattice: one along the lower edges of the stringers, the second along the steps.

Before pouring the stairs to the second floor, it is necessary to form steps. To do this, strictly in size, it is necessary to install crossbars from boards with a thickness of 30 mm, which will represent the sidewalls that determine the height of the step.

Everything is ready, concrete solution can be poured. For stairs, concrete of the M150 brand is most often used, which includes cement, crushed stone and sand. The ratio of the components can be as follows.

Cement grade	Mass composition: cement-sand-crushed stone (kg)
M400	1:3,6:5,8
M500	1:4,5:6,7

As in making everyone concrete structures, the ladder must be tamped after pouring the solution. Since the process is carried out at home and with your own hands, you can simply pierce it using a trowel.

Maintenance of the structure after installation

In this state, a semi-finished staircase should stand for seven days. Then you can remove the formwork.

Moisturizing

If the air temperature in the room is high enough (for example, pouring is done in summer), then it is recommended to periodically water the concrete structure with water. In some cases, it is even covered with burlap or plastic wrap.

The thing is that moisture inside the concrete solution plays a very important role. It is she who creates in the process of evaporation the necessary strength of the concrete itself. But it must evaporate slowly.

Grinding

After removing the formwork, it is necessary to sand the surfaces using a sander. But there is no need to rush with this operation. For testing, try sanding a small area hidden from view. If the crushed stone turns out during the grinding process, then this indicates that the concrete has not yet dried well. That is, it did not gain the required hardness and strength.

But you can load a flight of stairs only after 28 days. It was after this period concrete mix will gain its brand strength.

The staircase has accompanied humanity for millennia. Still: a more accessible and at the same time effective way to move up and down civilization has not yet come up with.

People, as a rule, spend their whole life building career ladder, we will talk about a more pragmatic issue - namely, how to fill a staircase made of concrete.

Before you start this important business How to pour concrete stairs with your own hands, you need to clarify for yourself the following fundamental points:

How to pour concrete stairs: important points	Photo
General planning within the concept of a house or site
Calculation of strength characteristics
Calculation of the project cost
What tools will be needed in the manufacture
The appearance of the product plays an important role in the overall interior

Important! Be sure to take into account the moment that the arrangement of concrete stairs, due to technological and design features, is possible only when linking its manufacture with general construction work at the time of the construction of the house. To make a staircase out of concrete just like that or during maintenance in the house, in the vast majority of cases, will not work.

If you have no experience in making reinforced concrete stairs, then pouring is an excellent opportunity to practice concrete stairs onto the porch. Let's start with her.

Decorating the porch: the first experience

How to fill with your own strength and reasonable spending?

As a rule, such products have a single-marching structure, are not very limited in space, are not critical in calculating the static load on the base, and are easily finished with a full range of decorative materials suitable for outdoor use. The manufacturing price is also, perhaps, quite attractive.

Preliminary calculations: learning to draw

And in this case, you will not be limited in the choice of design and technological solutions.

Practice and instruction show that a concrete staircase for a porch has the following average parameters:

step height 17-18 cm;
the width of the step, or as it is also called the step plane, 30 cm;
the construction of the staircase is one-piece with a bundle of step-risers;
base - foundation slab or a tape made according to the classical technology.

On the ground, a working perimeter is marked, which reflects the boundary dimensions, design features, places of abutment to other structures of the house, places of reinforcement or a bundle of stairs using special technological methods.

Important! At least in the sketch, it is necessary to note the presence and design of fences, awnings, decorative lighting, anti-skid elements and anti-ice systems. Their dimensions, fastening methods, the location of the power supply channels and other things. The presence of visual information will be a good help, and will allow you to put the necessary elements into general design still at the stage of rough work.

Foundation arrangement: cheap and not very

A rational solution would be to create a base plate on the main anchors. On the one hand, this will significantly reduce the thickness of the base plate, on the other, save on the amount of reinforcement due to the absence of free or, as reinforcement workers call them, “empty” lashes.

A root anchor is either a special product or reinforcement vertically buried in the bottom of the soil, which in its cross section is 2 times larger than the cross section of the main knitted reinforcement. Basic anchors are installed in corners, junctions and other structural nodes that are responsible for the load.

The strands of horizontal knitted reinforcement are fixed as rigidly as possible on the anchors, as a rule, by electric arc welding. Wiring is undesirable.

Attention. For those who wish to save on expensive fittings, provided they have a solid parent soil, small size stairs and the presence of nearby metallurgical enterprises, it is possible to organize the bearing cushion of the foundation using the slag-water technology.

It is imperative to make sure that the dump slag is discharged from the blast furnace, as the electrometallurgical slag is practically devoid of Portland cement. A significant disadvantage of this method should be considered a longer period of time for the maturation of the massif, in comparison with monolithic concrete according to the classic recipe.

We collect the formwork: the Lego constructor in an adult way

Perhaps this is the most crucial moment in the whole process. It is from the fact how carefully and accurately you can put together all the elements that not only depends aesthetic perception future product, but also strength and durability.

And since a home starts with a porch, you shouldn't underestimate the importance of this element.

Modern technologies provide for the use when performing concrete works typical inventory prefabricated formwork, which simplifies and speeds up the process by several orders of magnitude. But due to their high cost, the use of such elements is justified in the manufacture of a series of similar structures.

In the rest of the cases, it is quite enough for a commodity edged board "inch" with a thickness of 25 mm. Or plastic sheet, if you plan to have radial elements in the staircase structure, for example, rounded encircling steps, gates and others.

Attention. It should be borne in mind that a large number of radius elements will create objective difficulties in the subsequent finishing of the finished staircase. Straight cutting of ceramics, porcelain stoneware, artificial and natural stone is much more technologically advanced than curvilinear cutting.

When deciding how to pour a concrete staircase with your own hands, in addition to the edged board, you will need:

phosphated self-tapping screw with a large pitch on wood;
stubborn metal corners for a high-quality bundle of corner elements, which are easy to make yourself;
marking square;
roulette.

Another question: how to pour a staircase out of concrete, not only qualitatively, but also quickly? Here it is hardly possible to do without small-scale mechanization.

Of the tools, it is highly desirable:

hand-held circular saw or jigsaw with an extended blade of 150 mm;
cordless or cordless screwdriver;
vibration sander for removing irregularities on planes, transitions, tides of an already hardened product.

The board is dissolved into its constituent elements, while in the process of marking, the thickness of the mating overlap, equal to the thickness of the board, should be taken into account. Undoubtedly, it is worthwhile to attend to the manufacture of spacers, which will ensure the preservation of the perpendicularity of the flat elements when a load is applied to them when pouring concrete stairs.

Subsequent tiers will fully provide wooden blocks of small cross-section, easy to install.

Reinforcement cage set: skeletons in a closet

The old concrete workers dubbed the two main operations with just such unattractive names. The coffin or cabinet was put together by a set of formwork, and the skeleton was laid there by tying the reinforcement. And the names are very correct in essence.

The lifespan of the stairs directly depends on the strength and quality of the skeleton. The basic techniques for knitting reinforcement are widely known and are easily described.

We repeat that it is not superfluous to weld the root nodes with electric arc welding, and the cells of the plane are tied with a loop knot with a knitting steel wire. In production conditions, it is subjected to medium-temperature annealing, which leads to high ductility and softness of the steel.

When laying the bottom layer of the reinforcing mesh, do not forget to hang it evenly over the "sole" at a distance of at least 30 mm.

Select mesh thickness and mesh size based on reasonable economic needs and specific product design.

When recruiting a frame, be sure to close future technological channels and nests of embedded elements with plugs. At the same time, a previously prepared technological sketch or drawing of a future product will come in handy.

Pouring concrete mass: from water to stone

The practice-proven recipe for the preparation of a concrete mixture is as follows:

Portland cement (10 parts);
crushed stone fraction 10-20 mm (30 parts);
sand mass (20 parts);
water (7 parts).

Important. Work on pouring concrete steps must be carried out in a single operation, without breaking it in time. Otherwise, incomplete closure of the artificial stone array is possible. Professional concrete workers call this phenomenon "puff pie", sometimes adding "grandmother".

The pouring operation must be started from the bottom, carefully monitoring the preservation of the strength of the formwork structure under the load that has arisen, and in time aligning the weakened and displaced struts. Filling the frame with the mass, watch out for good filling all sinuses and undercuts, preventing the formation of voids and cavities.

The video in this article shows key points manufacturing technology and procedure.

The use of a vibrator makes it possible to obtain a denser and higher quality array. In extreme cases, concrete steps can be poured without it. How a budget option a manual rammer is also suitable.

If the first experiment ended successfully, miscalculations and technological nuances were taken into account, it is worth moving on to a more complex option, making a concrete staircase to the second floor with your own hands.

Interfloor staircase: higher and higher and higher

How to pour a concrete staircase to the second floor, without attracting hired workers, without spending extra money, and having confidence in the quality of the work performed.

Having decided on such a step, you need to know exactly how to properly fill a staircase made of concrete, and what cannot be done, since such critical elements do not forgive mistakes.

Based on the layout of the premises and other nuances, it is immediately necessary to decide on the type of stairs that will connect the floors:

Staircase view	Design features	Application
Monolithic single-flight staircase with a riser	The angle of inclination of the marching span is 30-40 degrees, 18-20 cm, the width of the step area is 27-32 cm. The side ends can be open and closed type, which implies the use both in the inter-wall space, and as a separate independent structure	The simplest and most versatile design. Wide possibilities for decoration and design experiments. It does not require complex formwork and additional fastening in the interfloor space. Space-demanding due to the long single span. A staircase of this type has a very large mass, especially when faced with an array of porcelain stoneware, natural and artificial marble and so on.
Single-flight staircase with a monolithic stringer and a through-type step without a riser	Cruising angle up to 42 degrees, step height up to 22 cm, step pad width up to 30 cm	Due to the absence of risers, a general construction lightening is possible in comparison with the previous type up to 35-40%. Due to the absence of limitation for the toe of the foot, it is possible to reduce the width of the stepping platform. This type of ladder is less demanding on the strength and mass-dimensional characteristics of the support platform. Objectively less amount of finishing materials required for finishing the finished product. Due to the through structure, it is undesirable to place flights of such stairs over recreation areas in the house. Higher requirements for the strength characteristics of stringers and additional supporting structures.
Multi-flight staircases of monolithic and through types, including stairs with intermediate turning platforms	The angle of inclination of the cruise flights can be of different sizes and ranges from 30-45 degrees. The height of the step pad and the width of the step are within the generally accepted standard values	They are used in the case of limited space, which does not allow the use of simple single-flight spans. Due to the use of constructive mass separation, the static load on the base is more rationally distributed. Require more ready-mixed concrete for making a monolith. As a result, the number of finishing materials and related accessories increases. More complex formwork and the use of a combined tying system power frame.
, complex multi-radius structures with both closed and open steps	A design feature should be considered the presence of a "backbone" axis, around which the steps are tied with an almost complete absence of straight sections. The height of the step and the width of the step platform within the limits generally accepted for other types of stairs	They are used in the absence of free space for the manufacture and installation of stairs of other types, very often they are placed in bay windows and other highlighted elements of the structure of the house. They require very accurate calculations of the strength of materials and high culture and manufacturing experience. Applicable multilevel system power frame dressings and flexible formwork. Not recommended for self-production by persons who do not have the appropriate knowledge and production practice.

Technical nuances: briefly about the main

In the main aspects of the question: concrete stairs - how to fill it correctly, we figured it out. There are still some nuances:

In general, the production of a staircase from concrete to the second floor does not differ in technology from the production of a staircase for the porch of a house. Of the features, the following should be noted. The grade of ready-mixed concrete should not be lower than B-15
It is advisable to use as an inert filler for self-preparation of concrete mixture crushed granite fr. 5-25 with a minimum content of flaky and dusty inclusions. The use of enriched quartz with a modulus of 0.8-1.1 is encouraged as sand.
How to fill concrete steps with a solution of such a thick consistency? At the initial stage, skill is indispensable, and then the acquired skills will do their job, and the concrete will flow like clockwork.
When preparing the base, do not use the floors of the lower floor, insulated with foam, mineral wool, and similar materials. Otherwise, it is necessary to cut the insulation sandwich and pour in a full-bodied reinforced base plate.

The location of flights of stairs at angles in excess of critical values is not allowed.

A progressive step when recruiting a load-bearing frame should be considered to be the use of reinforcement not cut, but bent along the profile.

This reduces the occurrence of internal stresses by an order of magnitude and increases the overall resistance of the load-bearing frame to rupture, fracture and twisting. It is convenient to bend the reinforcing bar using roller-lever devices.

Do not forget about the “one day” rule - that is, the entire structure must be filled at a time, without a break in time. Well, remember the order from bottom to top. This will avoid voids and cavities. Video: pouring a concrete staircase can be viewed several times, focusing on important points.

In conclusion, it should be noted that making a staircase from concrete with your own hands, subject to the basic technological methods, is not some kind of complicated process.

However, it should be remembered that the domestic legislator clearly regulated the conduct of such work. state standards 9818-85 "Marches and landings of stairs are reinforced concrete", which must be taken into account when carrying out independent work, and then concrete pouring stairs will serve faithfully for many years.

Perhaps, monolithic reinforced concrete stairs are not as common in the private sector as wooden or frame ones, but they are also quite popular. They captivate with their solidity and massiveness, as well as huge possibilities in terms of finishing, not least of all attracted by their long service life. Among the craftsmen of the portal, such structures are also in demand, thanks to which they have accumulated a lot of experience both in design and in execution independently or under personal control.

Consider:

Monolithic stairs - constructive, varieties.
Features of designing a monolithic staircase.
Monolithic staircase construction technology.
How to prepare the formwork for a monolithic staircase.
Reinforcement of a monolithic staircase.
Monolithic staircase concreting.

Monolithic concrete stairs

Monolithic reinforced concrete stairs are load-bearing stationary structures, poured directly on site, necessarily including a reinforcing cage. Depending on the dimensions and type of stairs, the reinforcement cage can be independent or connected to the wall.

As for the form, concrete provides no less opportunities than wood or metal, monolithic stairs can be anything:

marching;
with winders;
screw;
on a bowstring, with a gap between the steps;
on the stringer.

According to the execution of the bottom, monolithic stairs are divided into two types:

full-bodied - with a smooth bottom;
mirrored - with a curly bottom.

Naturally, the more complex the form of the structure, the more complex the calculations and implementation, the marching concrete stairs are considered the simplest. But they also need more space, the march should be laid initially, but it is more realistic to "squeeze" a staircase with end-to-end steps into the opening more modestly, although it is considered less convenient.

Features of the design of monolithic stairs

Ideally, monolithic stairs should be laid at the design stage, since, due to their massiveness, they require more space and a reinforced base. For example, if you first fill in a warm floor, and then decide that you want a monolith, this will cause certain difficulties.

Pozitivnyi member of FORUMHOUSE

I would not lean the ladder on a warm floor. There is insulation under it, which can play, and the screed can burst, damaging the pipes. We usually remove part of the screed and do pile foundation in the area of the first step, its farthest part from the wall.

A ladder, regardless of the type and material chosen, must first of all be safe and functional - with comfortable steps, at least an acceptable angle of inclination and a sufficient span.

For the calculation of monolithic stairs, the same rules apply as for the rest:

When calculating the length of the march, the thickness of the flooring is taken into account.
The optimal march width is 1000-1200 mm, the minimum is 900 mm.
The number of steps in the march is a maximum of 15 pieces.
The height of the comfortable steps is 150-170 mm, the maximum is 200 mm.
Tread width - 250-300 mm.
The optimal tilt angle is 30-37⁰, maximum - 45⁰ (along the middle axis).

There is a calculation formula: 2a + b = 640, where a is the height of the step, b is the width of the step, and 640 mm is the average length of our step. Portal craftsmen use another formula to calculate monolithic stairs.

Iosich

The norm is when according to the formula: the riser plus the tread is 45 cm, or the riser plus the tread, plus the riser is 58-62 cm.

A self-developed project can be drawn either on paper or in a special constructor. The second option is preferable, since a virtual 3D model is obtained, and the computer performs the main calculations based on the input. This is especially true when it comes to structures with winders.

Iosich

A correctly designed staircase should have the same height of all risers and the same size of the tread of all steps along the axis of the running strip (usually in the middle of the march). For straight stairs, such a calculation is easy to do, but the run-down steps are already more problematic. Often this rule (about the same size) is not observed in the manufacture of such stairs, and as a result, there is discomfort when using them in the future. I do not count on hand-to-hand stairs. Arkon copes with this task perfectly. I place a staircase on the plan the right type, set the parameters, watch the model in 3D.

Monolithic staircase construction technology

The process of erecting a monolithic staircase consists of three main stages:

assembly of formwork;
reinforcement;
concreting.

Finishing work is, although a mandatory, finishing stage, but can often be decently spaced in time, especially when the stairs are being erected simultaneously with the box.

Formwork for a monolithic staircase

In order to immediately get a sufficiently smooth surface, the formwork is assembled from smooth materials, mainly waterproof plywood with a thickness of 20 mm or more. If there is a financial opportunity or expediency (several stairs), then it is better to choose laminated plywood. The bottom and sidewalls are assembled from plywood; to form the risers, an edged board with a thickness of 30-35 mm or a bar, 50 × 50 mm is used.

All elements of the formwork are cut out as accurately as possible and adjusted during assembly without the formation of cracks, if necessary, the joints are additionally sealed.

Long self-tapping screws are most often chosen as fasteners, metal corners and bars are used to strengthen the shape, the flanging is reinforced with a bar, the bottom is supported with metal or wooden posts with step steps. If the staircase is of a complex shape (spiral, run-in steps), then instead of racks, carriers are sometimes made (crossbars, one end fixed to the wall, and the other to the sidewall). When using ordinary plywood from the inside, it is recommended to cover the formwork with foil or other insulation.

The formwork is usually assembled in two stages - first the bottom and the sidewall / sides, and after laying reinforcement cage crossbars are mounted under the steps. One of our craftsmen decided to try first to completely assemble the formwork, and only then to perform the reinforcement.

Golubev

At home I first made fittings, now I’ll try differently, yes, there will be difficulties - to knit and cook fittings under the steps (jumpers). But then it is not easy to install the jumpers on the fittings. And now I can immediately see here where and how to carry out the reinforcement. If any step interferes, then unscrew it - a couple of minutes, and so much more - return it to its place. The main thing is that this place is found, drawn, and the step is set in three dimensions in terms of level, painstaking work. And when there is still reinforcement underfoot, it is uncomfortable, so I try it this way.

Another craftsman of ours, professionally dealing with stairs, advises not to create unnecessary difficulties for yourself.

NickVas

A roll of cheap wallpaper - you draw a kosour (monolith), fasten it to the wall, setting it according to the level - mark the places for fittings and fasteners, drill, fasten the bars / boards directly according to the pattern on the wallpaper, then just rip the wallpaper off the wall!

Reinforcement of a monolithic staircase

To increase the strength of the structure and prevent the edges of the steps and flights from crumbling, reinforcement must be performed - longitudinal and transverse. Steel reinforcement with a periodic profile with a diameter of 10-14 mm (longitudinal reinforcement is thicker) is used, from which a spatial frame is formed in the form of a mesh with a cell of 100-200 mm, depending on the parameters of the march. The reinforcement is fixed to each other with a knitting net using a hook or by welding. To withstand the thickness of the protective layer (2 cm), special ones are used today.

If the design of the staircase provides for support in the wall through reinforcement, then usually the rods are simply hammered, but if the wall is made of materials characterized by a reduced bearing capacity, for example, aerated concrete, our craftsmen advise making pits.

Pozitivnyi

Do not drive reinforcement into aerated concrete, this will not give the required support area for the stairs, it is better to make pits and run the reinforcement there, and then fill it all with concrete. Here's an example.

Thanks to this reception on aerated concrete walls heavy enough ladders can be supported.

Pozitivnyi

If you make holes in the wall at least 10x10 cm, then the support area will be 100 cm², and if you drive in the reinforcement, then 10 cm². The brand of aerated concrete is from 35 to 50, therefore, 100 cm² will withstand from 300 to 500 kg. This means that twenty pits will provide a load from 6 to 10 tons, plus the staircase will stand against the walls, plus a support on the first step, plus a support on the floor slab.

Reinforcement can be single or double, the opinions of our craftsmen on this matter were divided - some believe that it is better to install two meshes, so that for sure, others that for most structures one is enough. The forum is devoted to this issue. In short, one-layer reinforcement is advocated by alexxxxx, one of the professionals who make custom-made monolithic stairs.

alexxxxx

Fittings in monolithic structures needed in the stretch zone, but what is the stretch at the top of the slab? There the reinforcement lies with a dead weight - this is the first thing. Double reinforcement is required in very rare cases, doing it on all stairs is a transfer of material and extra work, this is the second. Third, the total number of fittings in percentage terms is regulated by SNIP. If for me with a single-layer reinforcement this percentage approaches the limit, then with a two-layer reinforcement this SNIP percentage will definitely be exceeded. Fourth, on a span of three meters, I use reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm with a step of 120-130 mm. For comparison, a monolithic floor slab of six meters is reinforced with the same reinforcement with a step of 200 mm. What will be stronger? Of my more than 100 ladders made, three were made under the supervision of technical supervision, the technical supervision did not make any comments on the reinforcement - this is the fifth.

According to alexxxxx, double reinforcement is justified when:

there is a pinching of the top and bottom - if there is no third support;
there is no support at all on the bottom and top, and the structure "hangs" embedded in the wall;
ladder on one stringer - the upper reinforcement and clamps prevent twisting of the stringer;
with thin monolithic steps, for example, one lateral kosour - the lower reinforcement of the steps works in compression, and the upper one in tension;
the flight of the stairs crosses the retaining wall (it is necessary to reduce the thickness of the lower layer so that, together with the upper one, it does not exceed the permissible percentage).

The exception is typical factory marches, designed for high throughput and use both inside and outside - they always have double reinforcement.

One of the moderators of our forum has a different point of view.

Rolandspb

I usually always do two nets in the stairs, no matter what. But in general, of course, they are not always needed. If stretching is evident in the lower zone, then reinforcement in the upper zone is not needed. But, in fact, the overrun on the upper mesh of the ladder is about 100 kg, you won’t gain much. Reinforcing stairs is quite difficult with several bends of the rods from the upper to the lower zone. I especially do not like the transition from the lower flight to the platform or slab. The bent shank may not work within a certain range. Therefore, I connect two rods (one from the lower zone of the slab, and the second from the lower zone of the march), each of which I anchor at the point of their intersection and bring it into the upper zone of the march and the slab, respectively. And in the transition from the slab to the upper flight - there, in my opinion, it is quite possible to leave just bent rods passing from the bottom of the plate to the bottom of the same flight. It is not a fact that this is exactly how it should be. But I do this. I am not campaigning for anyone.

Monolithic staircase concreting

For monolithic stairs, it is advisable to use factory concrete, a class from B20 (M250), and preferably B25 or B30. If it is not possible to order a ready-made solution, then a self-mix prepared in a concrete mixer is also suitable, but the use of plasticizers is mandatory. Typical ratio of cement, sand and crushed stone (fraction 10 × 20 mm) - 1/3/3, the solution should not be too liquid.

The ladder is poured in one approach, starting from the lower steps, moving up, each step must be vibrated to prevent the formation of voids. In the process of vibration, concrete squeezing or settling is possible, the excess is redistributed, after the final shrinkage, the surface of the steps is carefully smoothed out with a rule or a trowel. For a uniform set of strength, it is recommended to cover the concrete with a film and moisten it several times a day for a week.

After about a week, partial stripping is carried out - the crossbars and sides are removed in order to carry out a rough grinding. The bottom is removed no earlier than 3-4 weeks, when the structure gains the required strength. The next step will be finishing- installation of fences, plastering, cladding with wood, tiles, stone or other material. Previously, in the process of concreting, mortgages were necessarily made, today they have lost their relevance.

alexxxxx

Why mortgages? Will there be railings to weld on? It will turn out very aesthetically pleasing! And the railing installers will remember with a very "kind" word of the person who put these mortgages when they need to hammer out a hole for fasteners in this place. Now everyone has punchers, and the anachronism in the form of mortgages only interferes with the normal installation of the railing. Why do you need a mortgage when hidden fasteners look better. about a monolithic staircase according to technology permanent formwork.

For a long time, concrete stairs have ceased to be used only in the construction of multi-storey panel or brick houses... When planning the construction of their own house with two or more floors, many still at the design stage decide to build a solid and reliable concrete staircase inside the building to move between different floors with their own hands.

This option of lifting to a height is very convenient to operate, and when planning, you can take into account your own wishes. For example, design the height of the steps, depending on whether there are children or the elderly in the family, or set other desired parameters.

In this article, you will learn how to fill a staircase with concrete.

Advantages and disadvantages of a concrete staircase

If the main criterion when choosing a method of construction flight of stairs is the durability and reliability of the entire structure, then the most likely solution would be to pour the stairs from durable concrete. Such designs have a number of undeniable advantages:

moisture resistance of the structure both inside and outside the house;
fire resistance, especially if the decoration and decoration are also made of fireproof materials;
in terms of reliability and durability, they are comparable to the life of the house itself;
noiseless, steps of this design will not begin to creak, like wooden steps;
the possibility of various design finishes, decoration with wooden elements, marble;
many options for location, shapes and structures in the manufacture of concrete stairs.

Concrete for construction in private houses is several times superior to all other materials used for such purposes.

In this video you will learn how to pour the formwork:

They are capable of withstanding enormous loads and do not require special maintenance or repairs during operation.
Of course, there are some disadvantages of such connecting structures. These include:
large labor costs during construction with your own hands;
relatively higher price than simple wooden structures;
significant weight of the concrete structure, requiring reliable foundations below and above, support on floors, which makes it impossible to erect such a staircase in light frame and wooden houses;
a long time for the construction of the stairs, due to the long hardening of concrete;
the need for preliminary calculations and volumetric preparation for the casting process, which provides for the manufacture of formwork under the steps.

Despite all the listed disadvantages, the popularity of monolithic concrete stairs for private housing construction does not fall. Especially in the construction of two- or three-story houses made of gas silicate bricks.
Necessary calculations of the material and dimensions of the structure
Before you start calculating the parameters for the construction of a concrete staircase in a private house, you should determine its location. Since the concrete structure will turn out to be heavy, it must rest on a concrete base, so there is a need to pre-fill the foundation under the stairs. It is better to foresee the place for the construction of the stairs right away when designing the whole house before starting construction.
You can calculate other parameters of a concrete staircase and understand how to make it yourself. The lifting height is already known and is equal to the height of the ceilings, therefore it is necessary to determine the length of the future staircase and its angle of inclination. The maximum permissible angle for the construction of a safe structure is considered to be 45 °, but for convenience it is better to take this indicator about 26-33 °.
Having determined the angle of inclination, it is easy to calculate the length of the staircase itself and its projection onto the floor. This can be done using a special calculator or independently, according to the formula for calculating the hypotenuse of a right triangle, knowing the value of the angle of inclination and one of the legs (room height).

This value is used to calculate the length of the space under the stairs. If the room does not allow such a long structure to be placed, it is worth considering an option that includes several flights of stairs.
The construction of a spiral concrete staircase to the second floor, especially with an offset center, is more difficult to do with your own hands, so it is better to trust a specialist.
Moreover, to carry out the correct calculations, you will need knowledge in theoretical mechanics.
It should be placed in such a way that the ceiling height above the flight of stairs is approximately 2 or more meters. This will make it easy to climb to the upper floors, even for tall people... The recommended construction width for a private house is from 80 to 100 cm.
In the next step, the width and height of the steps are calculated. The steeper the rise of the flight of stairs, the higher and narrower they will be. For stairs with a small angle of inclination, on the contrary, the steps can be wide, and their height - less. You can determine the optimal parameters using tables, a special calculator or calculating yourself using a formula showing the dependence of a person's step length, height and width of steps.

You need to correctly calculate the amount of required material
Knowing the height of one sill, you can calculate their number based on the height of the stairs. And, accordingly, based on the data obtained, determine the width of the step. The main thing is that the parameters of the steps should maximally meet the requirements for the convenience of movement along them.
The obtained values can be corrected within 5 mm. If the width of the tread is too small and does not allow to put the leg normally, then so-called overhangs are made.
For heavy concrete structures, the thickness of the load-bearing work slab is important. Its width is determined based on the height and length of the flight of stairs.
Stages of creating a monolithic concrete staircase with your own hands
When erecting a concrete staircase with your own hands, after preparation and calculations, it remains to complete several stages of its creation:
a formwork for a concrete staircase is installed;
the reinforcement is being installed;
risers are placed (partitions for the formation of steps);
pouring concrete;
stripping.

Preparatory work
Having decided on the dimensions of the stairs and calculating the main parameters, before proceeding with the pouring of the stairs from concrete, prepare all the necessary materials:
plywood with a thickness of 20 mm;
edged board - 30-35 mm;
reinforcement - 10-14 mm;
wire for reinforcement tie;
self-tapping screws;
metal corners;
concrete mixer;
cement, sand, crushed stone, plasticizer s-3.

Installation of the main formwork
How to make quality staircase formwork? For correct installation formwork for the subsequent pouring of a monolithic staircase made of concrete, you should step by step follow all the recommendations specified in the instructions. If the staircase rests on the wall with one side, then you can outline the parameters of the future structure on the supporting wall before starting the installation of the formwork. When designing several marches, it is worth making a groove (depression) of about 10 cm in the wall, on which the transition platform will then rest. The correct installation of the formwork depends on the reliability and appearance future structure.

At the first stage, a board is installed perpendicular to the floor with a height equal to the height of one step and the planned floor screed. It is supported by an even solid moisture-resistant plywood with a length equal length one march, which will become the basis for concrete slab... Installation of plywood at the desired angle is performed using beams or special telescopic racks. Bars with parameters 100 × 100 mm will fully support the weight of the future structure. And to strengthen the formwork, you can use the metal corners.
The side parts of the staircase formwork are mounted to the plywood with self-tapping screws, while all wooden elements must fit snugly together so that the pouring solution does not get into the existing slots.
If non-moisture resistant plywood and boards are used, then they should be moistened with water or covered with a film to prevent concrete from absorbing into the wooden structure.

Reinforcement
Reinforcement of any concrete structure with reinforced concrete increases its strength. The first layer of reinforcement is laid at a distance of about 30 mm from the base of the formwork, a grid of rods with square cells 150-200 mm wide and long is being built. Small steps or bricks can be placed under the structure. The longitudinal bars can be thicker than the cross bars because they carry a lot of stress. Although most often they use reinforcement of the same diameter, for example, 14 mm.

It is recommended to connect the reinforcement to each other with a special wire, welding can weaken the entire structure. To strengthen the flight of stairs, you can lay out the metal mesh in two layers. In this case, the second row must be placed 30-40 mm higher than the first, and it can be made from rods with a diameter of 6 mm with a cell width of 150 × 150 mm.
When laying the reinforcing mesh, make sure that its edges are at a distance of 20-50 mm from the side formwork. Thus, the rods will be protected by a thick layer of concrete from external influences that can lead to corrosion and destruction of the reinforcement.
Completion of formwork installation, installation of partitions, risers
After laying the reinforcement, they begin to install the risers, which will help to smoothly and correctly fill the concrete steps. To do this, a rectangle is cut out of a sheet of plywood with a height equal to the height of future steps or 10 mm more. All panels are cut the same as all steps on the staircase will also be the same size. Three parts are attached to the resulting rectangle - support board and two side wooden parts.
The length of the support board will be exactly the same as the length of the plywood riser, and the side parts (lintels) with a board thickness of about 100-150 mm are needed in order to attach the resulting part to the sides or wall of the finished formwork base.

Do not forget about the installation of the formwork
Having made one riser, it is worth trying it on at the installation site and, if necessary, making changes, and then finishing the remaining parts for the formwork of exactly the same size. Attach the lintels to the sidewalls and the wall using self-tapping screws or dowels. The installation of each panel should be precisely measured and adjusted so that all risers are strictly perpendicular to the floor.
Risers should be installed strictly along the upper edge of the step, but they can be located slightly below the lower edge.
This is done in order to create a small barrier for the concrete mortar, which will facilitate the pouring process.

Pouring concrete
Having figured out how to make the formwork for pouring a monolithic concrete staircase, you can start preparing the concrete solution and pouring the frame. For the construction of strong structures, concrete of the M250-300 brand is chosen. And for the construction of a porch made of concrete, it is worth choosing frost and moisture resistant materials. A solution for pouring a staircase is prepared as follows:
half of the water;
one part of M400 cement;
two pieces of sand;
four pieces of rubble;
superplasticizer C-3, 0.7% by weight of cement.

Pouring of concrete starts from the first stage and gradually moves upwards. After filling the first two stages, it should be treated with a vibrator to remove air inside the mixture. You can also lightly tap the formwork with a hammer, so that the concrete will settle and you can add more.
The surface is leveled with a trowel and wait 10-15 minutes, during this time the mixture will harden a little, and the next two steps can be poured. If, during the further pouring of concrete, the first steps begin to rise under the pressure of the upper ones, they must be leveled by removing the excess concrete.
After finishing work on pouring concrete finished staircase covered with polyethylene to prevent fast solidification. The slower the concrete mixture hardens, the better it will set and the stronger it will be in the end. For the first week, the polyethylene is removed several times a day, and the surface is sprayed with water to avoid cracking the concrete.
Procedure and terms of demoulding
In order for the concrete structure to set and reach its strength, it takes at least 3-4 weeks. Until the mortar is completely dry and the formwork is removed, it is not worth walking on the flooded staircase, for this you need to provide for other ways of moving between floors. For example, using a simple wooden ladder.

One week after pouring, the formwork boards can be removed from the steps. This will allow you to assess the quality of the work done and, if necessary, fill the cracks again. After 2 weeks, the side boards are removed, and after another week and a half, you can remove the support in the form of beams and lower part formwork. The ladder is now completely ready to move along it.
Features of making a monolithic concrete staircase with your own hands
When it is already clear how to make a concrete staircase for your own home with your own hands, you need to think over a work plan. Since all spans and flights should be poured at one time, it is worth buying or renting a suitable concrete mixer and taking care of attracting helpers.
The formwork installation process is also very time consuming, therefore, by inviting a specialist with experience in this field, you can avoid many problems in the future. Having made a mistake on preparatory stage or in calculations, it is almost impossible to correct it later.

Having decided to build a reliable concrete structure in the house for climbing to the upper floors, there are many options for possible finishes to be considered. And after removing the formwork, the staircase can immediately be used to move along it, even without finishing. Possible options erections are done concrete structure suitable for houses of a small area, and in a huge cottage, it can become a real decoration.

Concrete stairs are widely used not only in places common use apartment buildings, but also in private houses, cottages and apartments.

Reinforced concrete stairs in a house or apartment will suit almost any interior due to the wide range of possibilities for finishing such stairs. Concrete stairs are very durable and have high wear resistance. Of course, these conditions are satisfied when correct design and correct calculations, not only the durability of the future ladder depends on these parameters, but also the safety of people who will use it. You will find all the intricacies of building a concrete staircase in this article.

Types of monolithic stairs

Monolithic stairs are subdivided according to the type of structure and shape. There are the following options for concrete stairs:

screw;
straight marching;
swivel.

In the manufacture of concrete stairs, the simplest construction is a straight staircase, but it is not always convenient to use. In the case of a staircase located in a small room, to save space, they often use either a multi-flight staircase with winders or a turning platform, or a spiral staircase.

When designing, and subsequently during construction, it is necessary to provide for outlets of reinforcement at the points of contact with the stairs. This is necessary in order to connect the metal structure of the staircase with the elements of the house, for greater rigidity.

Monolithic stairs are the most versatile, they are resistant to moisture and temperature extremes, so they can be used not only as interfloor ones. A monolith is used to build, for example, a staircase to the basement or an entrance staircase to a house.

Straight one-flight staircase

This kind stairs are very common. A single-flight staircase is built in houses with low ceilings; swing staircases are more often built in houses with high ceilings.

Based on the calculation that the comfortable span length is no more than 15 steps, we find that in rooms with high ceilings it is more correct to use staircases with run-in steps or turning platforms. Using a straight ladder in such a case will lead to an increase in the number of steps and discomfort when using it.

The advantages of a straight staircase:

ease of installation, in comparison with stairs of other forms;
price;
following the recommendations of our site, you can build such a staircase without any problems.

Spiral staircase

Such a staircase made of reinforced concrete will fit beautifully into the interior of any home.

Advantages:

placing a staircase on an area of 1.5 m 2 is a huge plus, especially in small houses;
the unusual, graceful shape of the staircase will adorn any interior.

Spiral water staircases also have a number of installation difficulties:

difficult installation, regardless of the type of construction chosen, it is necessary to manufacture panels of a special form for formwork;
difficulty in moving up the stairs due to the different widths of the steps along the entire length;
difficulties in lifting and lowering bulky objects, the problem is solved by increasing the diameter of the stairs.

Swivel staircase

They are used in various cases - in houses with high ceilings, to preserve optimal angle lift and march length are also widely used in the construction of apartment buildings. Let's highlight two common options:

with a turn of 90 degrees (L-shaped);
with a turn of 180 degrees (U-shaped).

Winders or a turntable are used as a turn. Ladder with winder steps in its own design features takes up less space than a turntable.

Types of structures

All concrete stairs are subdivided into:

monolithic concrete stairs - production is carried out directly at the installation site by pouring concrete mortar into a previously prepared formwork;
prefabricated - are concrete blocks prepared in advance at factories according to a standard template.

All types of stairs (straight, rotary and spiral) can be either monolithic or prefabricated, but in addition they are also subdivided according to the type of construction. The main constructions are:

on bowstrings;
on kosoura;
console;
modular.

We will analyze each of them in detail so that you can better understand which type of construction is right for you.

On a bowstring

The structure is a staircase, from the side of which you will not see steps. The steps are located between the elements of the concrete structure.

The design can be either with closed steps,

so with open ones.

There are designs with a one-sided arrangement of the bowstring, in this design it is similar to a cantilever design.

On kosour

The only difference between this design and the previous one is that the steps are open from the sides and the staircase has a zigzag appearance.

In addition, designs are distinguished by the location of the kosour:

Monokosour - can be located both in the center of the stairs, and with an offset to either side.

Kosour - outwardly looks smooth, just like stairs on kosour made of other materials. In this construction, stringers are made of concrete, and the steps themselves can be made of concrete or other material.

The staircase is a monolithic stringer.

Modular

Prefabricated reinforced concrete stairs belong to modular structures. The most common modular concrete structures are staircases in apartment buildings... In such buildings, multi-flight staircases with turning platforms are used.

Much less often, prefabricated reinforced concrete stairs are presented in the form of spiral ones.

Another modular design option is the use of separate steps as sides, which are installed on inclined channels.

The process of assembling a staircase from ready-made concrete elements is ultimately easier compared to the installation of monolithic stairs due to pre-prepared concrete products. During the assembly process, the elements of the stairs are installed in pre-prepared places and fixed with concrete mortar.

Console

An unusual and interesting design. Due to the fact that there are no railings, risers and retaining elements, a feeling of lightness and weightlessness is created.

In order to avoid damage and destruction of the steps of the cantilever staircase during operation, it is necessary to carefully perform all calculations at the design stage.

For the manufacture of a cantilever staircase from concrete steps, it is important that the walls are made of durable material and have sufficient width. In the process of building a house, a step 1/3 of the length is built into the wall.

Design and requirements for monolithic reinforced concrete stairs

When designing, it is important to remember that each staircase has its own characteristics of calculating parameters based on the shape of the staircase and its structure. You can use a detailed calculation of all the necessary parameters in the article on calculating stairs, as well as building calculator for each type.

Based on SNiP, we highlight the main parameters that must be taken into account when designing a staircase made of concrete:

number of steps - the calculation is carried out in relation to the span length to the step height;
the width of the tread - according to the norms for the convenient use of the stairs, it is necessary that the foot can fully fit on the tread;
step height - varies depending on the angle of inclination of the stairs, the comfortable height is about 160-180 mm;
step length - corresponds to the width of the march, for two people to move quietly in both directions, as well as to lift voluminous objects, a march width of about 1200 mm is sufficient;
ceiling opening - the distance from the steps to the edge of the opening must be at least 200 cm;
the height of the railing is on average 90 - 110 cm;
the length of the stringer or bowstring is calculated using the mathematical formula of Pythagoras. (length of the stringer) 2 = (height of the stringer) 2 + (length of the march) 2;

the optimal angle of inclination for stairs in residential premises is from 24 to 37 °, depending on this, it will be possible to determine the height of the riser and the width of the step;

for swing stairs, it is necessary to calculate additional retaining posts and a swing platform or run-in steps.

These parameters are applicable to single-flight and multi-flight staircases; in the case of spiral staircases, there are slight differences:

It is necessary to determine the diameter of the stairs, it depends on the length of the step and the diameter of the central pillar of the support: 2 * (length of the step) + (diameter of the central pillar).
Special parameters also go to the shape and size of the step. Due to the fact that the step tapers towards the support of the attachment, it is necessary to adhere to the following parameters: at the narrowest point, the width should be at least 10 cm, in the central part of the rise - at least 20 cm, in the widest part - no more than 40 cm.

In addition to the above parameters required for the construction of a staircase, it is important to remember that concrete stairs have a number of additional parameters.

One of these conditions is the reinforcement of a concrete staircase. Reinforcement is a kind of skeleton of the staircase that strengthens and supports it. When designing, it is necessary to separately draw a reinforcement scheme, it must fully repeat the contour of the future staircase, it is also important for the necessary strength of the entire structure.

Particular attention is also required to be paid to the quality of the concrete mixture; the strength of the future staircase also depends on it. To properly prepare the concrete mix, you can rely on the table, which presents the ratios for obtaining 1m 3 of concrete, or you can use the calculator for.

Having completed the calculations of all the above parameters, it is necessary to draw the staircase and all its components separately, at least in two projections - this is a top view and a side view. The execution of the drawing is necessary for a visual representation of both each element separately (the shape of the step and the pattern of the balustrade or fence), and the entire staircase as a whole.

The main advantages of a concrete staircase:

They have a rigid structure, there are no creaks and vibrations.
The construction of a concrete staircase in a private house begins simultaneously with the construction of a house, thanks to which it can be used for construction needs without fear of damaging it.
Concrete stairs are resistant to moisture and temperature changes, ideal for outdoor use as an entrance staircase.
There is no possibility of fire.
The material allows you to carry out the most insane design projects.

A feature of the design is the fact that a concrete staircase requires a solid foundation (foundation) and an equally strong floor on which it will rest. All this is due to the fact that concrete is a very heavy material, in addition, the heavy reinforced skeleton of the stairs also adds weight.

Construction stages

So we got to the most important stage with you, this is the construction of a staircase made of concrete. For convenience, we will divide this stage into six steps:

Foundation - we have already discussed that for the manufacture of a staircase from concrete you need a solid foundation and a floor on which it will rest. This stage must be performed if the foundation for the stairs was not provided at the stage of pouring the foundation for the house.
Formwork is a structure that sets the shape of the future staircase, depending on the shape and size of the structure, wood or metal is used for the formwork.
Reinforcement - necessary process to give the ladder tensile force and strength.
Pouring with concrete - it is important to pour the stairs in one go and expel all the air from the concrete.
Removing the formwork - all panels are dismantled after the concrete has been strengthened.

We will analyze each of the steps presented in detail so that you do not have any questions and you yourself can make a monolithic staircase with your own hands.

Foundation

You can find their description on our website. The foundation is selected depending on the soil and the loads exerted on it.

For example, consider a slab foundation for a staircase. Since the foundation is also a reinforced concrete structure, it will be necessary to perform almost all the same steps as for the stairs:

We excavate the soil, within the limits required for the stairs, to a depth of 60-80 cm.
Making a pillow under the foundation, we fill in and ram the sand, the thickness of the sand pillow should be at least 20 cm.
On top of the sand, we fill and tamp the crushed stone of a 20x40 dress coat, the thickness of the crushed stone pillow should be from 10 to 20 cm, depending on the loads on the foundation.
After preparing the pillow, if necessary, raising the foundation above the earth's surface, we make the formwork. Otherwise, the function of the formwork will be performed by the earth.
We prepare the reinforced frame and fill the entire structure with concrete, providing for the reinforced frame in such a way that the reinforcement sticks out above the level of the foundation for attaching the reinforced staircase frame to it.
After pouring, you must use a vibrating tool to eliminate air bubbles in the foundation and exclusion of porosity.
After pouring the foundation, it is necessary to wait until the concrete is completely fixed before proceeding with the installation of the stairs. The full consolidation process will take about three weeks. In order for the foundation to gain rigidity before it dries, it must be watered regularly with water.

Stairs to concrete base much stronger, due to the fact that there is no subsidence of the soil, which leads to deformation and destruction of the stairs.

Formwork installation

Preparing the formwork for the future staircase in a private house is one of the most important stages, because it depends on it how beautiful the staircase will turn out to be.

For installation, it is necessary to prepare the materials from which the formwork will be built:

Edged board with a thickness of 30 mm or waterproof plywood with a thickness of 12-18 mm - from which the bottom of the formwork will be made (it will bear the main load of all poured concrete), as well as the side parts of the formwork and risers.
Bars 100x100 mm and boards 50x150-170 mm - will be used to support the entire structure.
A thin sheet of metal or waterproof plywood 6-9 mm - for the formation of semicircular sections of the stairs.
Metal corners and self-tapping screws for fastening - the use of self-tapping screws is due to the fact that with their help it is easier to disassemble the formwork than after using nails.

To obtain the smoothest possible surface of the future staircase, it is necessary to ensure that the internal elements of the formwork that will come into contact with the concrete are smooth and without unnecessary errors, for this it is better to grind them before assembly.

Step-by-step formwork assembly:

There are special panels for the assembly of formwork, more often they are used by professional builders.

The set of such shields includes special retaining posts. All shields have locks for a tight and strong connection to each other.

Reinforcement stairs

For the reinforcement of a monolithic staircase, it is necessary to use reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm. The fittings must be grooved with a class of at least AIII.

Let's analyze correct location fittings:

The reinforcement rods should be at least 20-30 mm and not more than 50 mm from the edge of the structure. It is necessary to provide special supports that will be used in order to maintain the distances from the lower part of the formwork.
The distance between the reinforcing bars should be at least 20-30 cm. As a result of the bundle of reinforcement, cells of 20x30 cm should be formed. The close arrangement of the reinforcement is not allowed, due to the fact that in this way an obstacle can be created for the passage of concrete mortar.
At the junctions of the stairs with walls and ceilings, it is necessary to deepen the reinforcement into these elements, drill a hole and drive the reinforcement into it.
Reinforcing mesh should be made in at least two or more layers, depending on the thickness of the stairs. The diameter of the transverse rods must be at least 6 mm.
A bunch of reinforcement is carried out using a wire.

Reinforcement should not be excessively filled with reinforcement:

Firstly, it is possible that the concrete may be obstructed, which will lead to the formation of air gaps and a decrease in the rigidity of the structure.
Secondly, this will significantly make the structure heavier. It is good if your foundation is designed with a margin and can withstand this load, but it can be completely different.
Thirdly, this is an unnecessary rise in the cost of construction.

As an example, we will give a number of cases of correct and incorrect reinforcement of rotary sections of the structure (edit photo)

Pouring concrete

After completing the installation of the formwork and reinforcement, do not rush to fill the stairs with concrete. Think ahead of a number of points:

Staircase finishing - if the staircase will be sheathed with wood, it would be more correct to place small bars in concrete at the stage of pouring, to which you can later attach finishing elements. Thanks to this, it will not be necessary to drill the ladder, thereby weakening it.
Racks under the railing - depending on how the railing racks will be fastened, it is necessary to install the railing racks themselves or mortgages for them, this is if the railing is placed on the steps. If the placement is to the side of the stairs, it is possible to place a metal plate to which you can later attach the railing posts.

Do not rush before pouring concrete into the staircase, try to take into account all the possible elements that you want to add to your staircase. If necessary, run the support tubes under electrical cable for backlighting. Any drilling and drilling of a finished concrete staircase in a certain volume will reduce the strength of the entire structure, so the more possible factors you foresee before the staircase is poured, the stronger you will get it.

To fill the stairs with concrete, it is necessary to prepare concrete of a grade not less than M200, you can get it using the table given earlier, or a construction calculator. larger size can interfere with the passage of the solution in the reinforcement strapping.

The sequence of pouring a monolithic staircase:

It is better to start the pouring process from the lower steps. After filling the first 3 steps, it is necessary to expel air from the concrete, for this, use a submersible vibration tool. If you do not expel air, the concrete will turn out to be porous and more brittle.
If the concrete sags after the air is released, add mortar and shape the steps.
Then proceed to fill in all the remaining steps. Try to pour the entire ladder in one go so that the concrete will bond well. In the case of a large staircase, fill one flight at a time.
After pouring with concrete, cover the stairs with foil to prevent moisture evaporation and allow the concrete to harden.

Removing the formwork

Do not rush to remove the formwork elements, if the concrete has not gained enough rigidity, the entire structure will collapse and the whole process will have to start from the very beginning.

First of all, the formwork is removed from the steps and from the lateral support, this happens after 10-14 days from the moment of pouring. After dismantling the formwork, it is allowed to process the steps and sidewalls grinder to level the surface of your concrete staircase to the second floor.

During the entire time, until the formwork is removed, it is necessary to maintain the moisture content of the concrete, water it with water and cover it with polyethylene, especially in hot weather. This must be done to prevent the concrete from drying out before it hardens. Otherwise, it will not gain sufficient hardness, and there is a risk of cracking and destruction.

After 30-45 days from the moment of pouring, you can begin to dismantle the lower supports and the base of the foundation. This is perhaps the most responsible and exciting moment for the entire staircase construction. But if you adhered to all the recommendations, then you should not worry, during the specified time the concrete will gain the necessary strength, and the ladder can be used in full.

Finishing options

After the construction process, we proceed to the final stage of finishing. Reinforced concrete stairs have a wide selection of finishes:

You can sheathe the staircase with wood - in this case, upon completion of the finish, you may get the feeling that the staircase is not made of concrete, but in fact made of wood.

Wooden steps on a concrete staircase (insert link) - in this case, wooden treads or treads with risers are installed, and the rest of the staircase remains concrete. It must be carefully sanded, putty and painted or pasted over with tiles.

Reinforced concrete stairs in private houses are rarely glued with tiles, more often this option is found for stairs to the basement, for a porch or for monolithic stairs in shopping and office centers. insert link