Reinforcing frame for armopoyas. What is an armopoyas and why is it needed? Removable formwork from boards

The armature in the armored belt consists of working armature (10-12mm), and structural armature of a smaller diameter (frame - 6mm). Often, the reinforcement is made from 4 or 6 bars. In this article, we will describe and show in detail the reinforcement schemes, reinforcement bending methods and other nuances of the armopoyas.

The armature frame is needed in order to fix the working armature in the correct position. That is, two or three bars of reinforcement at the bottom of the armored belt, and two bars on top.

Reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm is quite suitable for the frame, you can even use thick wire.

The size of the frame should correspond to the thickness of your wall, taking into account the insulation and the protective layer of concrete. Extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm is best suited as a heater.

Often, the frame has a face size of about 120-200 mm.

Such square frames can be easily made in the following way.

We take a board (20-50 mm thick. 200 mm wide.), Draw a square, for example, 150 by 150 mm, drill a hole in the corners of the square.

The holes should be about 9mm so that the 10mm fittings fit snugly. The reinforcing bars themselves should be about half a meter long.

Put the board on the ground, hammer four reinforcing bars through the holes in the board into the ground. The template for folding frames is ready. It is more convenient to bend the reinforcement along the frame with a pipe. For such a frame, the reinforcement blanks should be about 600 mm long.

Armopoyas working fittings

The working armature is a thick ribbed wire with a diameter of 10 mm, preferably 12 mm. The working reinforcement in the armored belt works for bending, creating a high rigidity of the structure. The reinforcement should be continuous (circular) and extend over all load-bearing walls. If the building has very long openings, then the places of the armored belt above the openings must be reinforced with an additional lower bar of reinforcement.

The working reinforcement should be inside the frame, and is tied to the frames with an ordinary knitting wire; welding is not needed here.

The height of the armopoyas is made from 200 to 300 mm.
The distance between the frames should be between 200 and 400mm.
The overlap of the rebars should be 500 mm.
For lower rebar consumption, it is better to use longer rods to reduce the number of overlaps.
Do not forget about the concrete cover, which should be 40 mm on all sides.

Be sure to bend the working reinforcement at the corners and use additional reinforcement clamps, see the diagram below. It is convenient to bend the reinforcement using a long pipe.

Armopoyas reinforcement schemes

It is also worth noting that it is better to mount the reinforcement cage at the place of its pouring, since it will weigh a lot when assembled.

The formwork must be strong enough to withstand the pressure of the concrete. Pay special attention to the alignment of the formwork on all planes.

If you don't have a professional tool for vibrating concrete, you can use the following method: take a hammer drill and tap the reinforcement in the hammer mode, the concrete is compacted and air bubbles come out.

Armopoyas is a structure made of monolithic reinforced concrete, laid along the outer walls and capital partitions of the entire building to increase the rigidity and strength of the structure.

Tasks solved by the device of armored belts

reducing the impact on foundations of uneven settlement of soil foundations and forces of frost heaving;
strengthening the walls by creating additional stiffness, preventing their displacement and the occurrence of cracks;
even distribution of loads on the foundation, walls from subsequent floors and the upper one from the roof;
alignment of masonry walls from irregularities and distortions made during construction;
increasing the seismic resistance of the structure.

Where are the reinforced belts placed in the building?

Depending on the location, the following types of armored belts differ:

Grillages. This is the lowest and most important view that the entire building will rely on. In pile and columnar foundations, it combines individual piles or pillars into a single structure (it is impossible to consider a strapping made of profile metal or wood as a grillage). In monolithic strip foundations, it is constructed in the form of a slab connected with reinforcing outlets to the upper part or in the form of a widened heel of the main structure. In the prefabricated version - on top of the FL plates. There is no need for a device in slab foundations. The dimensions of the grillage are determined by calculation, generally the width is 60 - 150 cm with a height of 30 - 60 cm.
Basement. It is installed on top of the laid foundation blocks to evenly distribute the loads from the entire house. In slab and pile foundations, it is used only if there is a basement or basement. The width of the belt is equal to or slightly less than the planned width of the walls, the height is 20 - 40 cm.
Belts between floors. Concreted under the ceiling of each floor. In addition to the tasks already outlined, it transfers part of the loads, from masonry above window and door openings to load-bearing walls. That allows you to use simple ordinary lintels to cover these openings. If insulation with subsequent cladding is not planned, then the width of the belt is equal to the width of the wall, otherwise it is reduced by the thickness of the insulation. Height is from 20 to 30 cm. In multi-storey buildings between separate floors, instead of belts, reinforcement joints of 2 - 3 cm from a reinforcing mesh covered with cement mortar can be laid.
Under the roof. It distributes loads from the weight of the roof and the effects on it (wind, snow) and serves as the basis for attaching the Mauerlat (studs are produced from the belt). The dimensions are similar to those between floors.

Formwork

For the manufacture of formwork used:

smooth edged boards, planed from the inside;
laminated plywood;
sheet metal;
for those discussed above in paragraphs 3 and 4, a brick laid on an edge (from the outside, front and backing from the inside) can be additionally used, and for gas or foam concrete masonry, special blocks of U-shaped section, having a recess in the middle.

The formwork must be well fixed to prevent displacement during concreting. For this purpose, the following are used: studs, self-tapping screws, wire ties, wooden struts and crossbars.

Reinforcement

Armopoyas are reinforced with frames made of steel reinforcement. The assembly of the frames is carried out only with the help of wire binding, welding that weakening the joints and contributing to their corrosion is unacceptable. Docking of the rods is carried out with an overlap at a length of 20 diameters or more. As working reinforcement rods 12 - 14 mm of periodic profile are used, for distribution - smooth 6 - 10 mm. When laying the frame in the formwork, it is imperative to observe a protective layer of concrete of about 3 cm. The frames are made in the form of a continuous structure along the entire length of the belt. Instead of steel, composite reinforcement can be used, which has significant advantages.

Concreting

The concreting process should be carried out without temporary interruptions; if this is impossible, the finished site is fenced with mortgage shields. Used concrete B15 and higher. It is imperative to carefully vibrate and maintain the horizontal surface, which is controlled by a level or a building level. When the concrete mixture hardens, it is necessary to take care of it (protection with a film from atmospheric precipitation and the creation of a humid environment by sprinkling with water). De-decking is carried out in 5 - 7 days.

A reinforced belt is an important and necessary element in the construction of any building, so you cannot save on its production.

The topic of today's article is the creation of an armored belt. Armopoyas, reinforced belt, reinforced concrete reinforcing belt, unloading reinforced belt, seismic belt is a monolithic circular reinforced concrete structure that follows the contour of the walls.

Reinforced concrete belt required !! must be closed and in no case be interrupted in length. The need to build an armored belt when laying walls from gas silicate blocks is a rather controversial issue. On the Internet, on the websites of manufacturers of gas silicate blocks (foam blocks, gas blocks), you can find conflicting information. But still, the majority categorically argue that the armopoyas is necessary! Let's try to figure it out ...

The photos attached to this article will help you with this. To enlarge the image - click (click) on it with the "mouse".

What is the role of the armopoyas in the structure of the structure?

Is it really necessary?
Is it possible to do without an armored belt?

Reasons for making an armopoyas

Armopoyas designed to increase the resistance of the structure against constant deforming loads: wind loads, uneven shrinkage of the structure, uneven soil settlement under the structure, seasonal and daily temperature changes.

If the house is two-story, then the armopoyas must be done after the walls of the first floor are finished before the floor slabs are laid and after the second floor is finished before the roof is erected. In the first case, the floor slabs are placed not on the gas silicate blocks of the first floor, but on a monolithic reinforced concrete structure, in the second case, the roof structure beam will also be attached not to the blocks, but to the reinforced concrete armored belt.

Manufacturing of formwork for a reinforced belt

The device of the formwork for the armopoyas is described in detail in the article “. Usually the height of the armored belt is 30 cm, and the width is equal to the width of the wall. We made a removable formwork from a 20mm board according to the width of the wall. The lower part of the boards with a height of about 3-5 cm is fastened with self-tapping screws from the inner and outer sides of the wall. Boards are fastened to each other along the length from the outside using board trimming. The result is a gutter made of boards throughout the entire frame of the structure.

In order for the gutter to retain its shape when pouring the concrete mixture, it is necessary to fasten the side walls with crossbars along the entire length with a step of 80-100 cm. Some builders recommend retreating about 3 cm inward when installing the formwork. After filling the armored belt, fill the formed "niche" with heat-insulating material, for example expanded polystyrene. Thus, it is possible to reduce the loss of heat through the reinforced concrete armored belt.

Manufacturing of a reinforcing cage for an armopoyas

Because our house does not have heavy floor slabs, i.e. the load on the walls is not great, for the reinforcing cages we used only two strands of 12mm reinforcing rods. The reinforcement cage is prepared directly on the wall in the gutter from the removable formwork, because the finished frame is very heavy.

A "ladder" is made from reinforcing rods with a step of about 50 - 70 cm. Transverse rods are fastened by welding or wire for tying reinforcement. A special ratchet wrench is used for tying the wire. Along the entire length of the frame, we fastened the crossbars with wire, but at the joints and intersections of the walls - by welding. You can also carry out additional reinforcement with a corner by welding.

The resulting reinforcing cage must be "sunk" in the concrete mix at least 5 cm on each side. In other words, the reinforcing bars of the finished frame must retreat from the side walls of the formwork and from the gas silicate base blocks by at least 50 mm. For the construction of the walls, we used gas silicate blocks 300 mm wide. Therefore, the width of the reinforcement cage should not exceed 200mm.

So that the frame does not adhere to the blocks from below, we placed pieces of brick and blocks under it along the entire length. Thus, we "raised" the frame to the required height.

If the expected load on the walls is high enough, not a "ladder", as we have, is used for reinforcement, but a three-dimensional structure of four longitudinal reinforcement connected in the form of a parallelepiped. And although the image on the left is taken from an article on preparing a structure for reinforcing a foundation and the dimensions of the structure are valid only for making the foundation- it is quite clear how a three-dimensional structure is created for an armored belt. Make it in accordance with your armored belt, taking into account the necessary indents of the reinforcement structure from all sides of the finished armored belt (see above).

After the reinforcement cage has been made and laid in the formwork in accordance with the requirements described above, it is necessary to "set" it, as usual - using a level. After setting the frame to the level, you can start pouring the armored belt. Some builders recommend additionally, before pouring the concrete mixture, to hammer nails or pieces of wire into the upper row of gas silicate blocks with a "hedgehog" to connect the blocks of the upper row with an armored belt.

Filling the armopoyas

To fill the armopoyas, we used a cement-sand mortar with the addition of gravel. We told you about how to prepare such a solution in the article and. We poured the concrete mixture into the gutter with buckets.

After pouring the concrete mixture, it is necessary, using trimming reinforcement or a special tool designed for such purposes, to compact the mixture to eliminate voids.

IMPORTANT! You need to fill the armopoyas at a time, without a break. In this case, the previously placed portion of the solution should not solidify before pouring a new portion. In other words: if you have a shortage of concrete mix for pouring the entire armored belt at a time or do not have enough time to pour the entire armored belt at a time, you should “cut off” the concrete mix ONLY vertically! For this purpose, it is convenient to use a temporary jumper, for example, bricks or block cuttings.

Then, at the next pouring with concrete, remove the lintel, abundantly moisten the place of the future abutment of fresh concrete to the already hardened one (pour, for example, half a bucket of water) and continue pouring the rest of the reinforced belt.

In 3-4 days, in case of warm weather, the formwork can be disassembled. Your armopoyas is ready. You can read about how we attached the Mauerlat to the resulting armopoyas.

Armopoyas or reinforced concrete belt is a monolithic structure made of reinforced concrete, which is built around the perimeter of the walls of the house. The basis of the armopoyas is a frame made of reinforcement rods or wire. This frame is poured with a liquid concrete solution, after which solidification a monolithic reinforced concrete belt is formed, which is necessary to redistribute the load and increase the strength of the building. Consider how the formwork for the armopoyas is built, if the work is done by hand.

Certain requirements are imposed on the design of the armopoyas. Firstly, it must necessarily be closed, in no case, without interruption in length. Secondly, it must be of sufficient height to ensure that the building resists deforming loads.

When planning to build an armored belt with your own hands, you need to figure out in advance how to make the formwork for this part of the house. Since the strength and reliability of the armored belt will largely depend on the quality of the formwork.

When is it necessary to build an armored belt?

First you need to figure out when you need to make an armored belt, and when you can do without this design. The armopoyas of the foundation or grillage is recommended to be done in the following cases:

When constructing a shallow foundation;
When building a house on a site with a significant slope;
If there is a ravine or river next to the building being erected;
If the soil at the construction site is subsiding;
When building a house in seismically active areas.

Advice! The construction of an armored belt at the level of the location of the overlap is mandatory if the walls of the house are built from materials popular today such as foam or aerated concrete. When using a cinder block for the construction of walls, it is not necessary to make an armored belt, but it is desirable.

How many armored belts do you need to build when building a house?

If you are going to build a house with your own hands, you should find out in advance how many armored belts will have to be made during the construction process:

The first armored belt is the grillage. It is poured into the foundation trench along the perimeter of the building and along the locations of the bearing internal walls. The thickness of this armored belt is 30-40 cm, the width is 0.7-1.2 meters. The grillage should be done in most cases.
The second armopoyas from the bottom is located in the basement, it is used to redistribute the load exerted by the building.
The next armored belt is installed at the level of the overlap between the first and second floors. This design is necessary for pulling the walls of the house and allows you to effectively redistribute the load exerted by the slabs.

Advice! In addition, the presence of an armored belt under the ceiling allows you to distribute the load over the window openings. If you do not make a belt, then you will need a powerful jumper over each window opening.

In almost all cases, an upper armored belt is needed, which will be used to redistribute the load exerted by the roof of the house.

Formwork for the construction of an armored belt

What kind of formwork can be used to build an armored belt and can it be assembled by hand? First of all, you will need to decide what type of formwork will be used - removable or disposable.

Fixed formwork

The use of fixed formwork is the easiest way to build an armored belt with your own hands. Using ready-made blocks of permanent formwork, you can very quickly assemble a mold for pouring concrete. In addition, the use of polystyrene foam blocks eliminates the presence of cold bridges, which inevitably form in an unprotected reinforced concrete structure.

Formwork blocks are available in various widths and heights, so with their help you can easily make an armored belt of the desired size. As for the thickness of the slab to be poured, it can be easily adjusted using universal plastic jumpers.

Advice! Formwork from ready-made polystyrene foam blocks is easy enough to do with your own hands. The blocks have ready-made tongue-and-groove connections that snap into place when you lightly press on the mold. Corner and end blocks can be included in the formwork kit, which further simplifies the installation process.

Removable formwork from boards

If the purchase of ready-made formwork blocks is not provided for by the construction budget, then you can make a temporary formwork from the boards with your own hands:

In the standard version, the height of the armopoyas is 30 cm, and the width of the structure is equal to the thickness of the wall or foundation slab.
In order to make the formwork, you will need to stock up on a sufficient amount of planed boards 20 mm thick.
The lower formwork element (starting board) is screwed to the wall along the perimeter of the house from the outside and from the inside. As a rule, fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws.
The next formwork boards are installed above the first and knocked into shields using pieces of timber or flat planks. Before fixing the boards, you need to make sure that they are strictly vertical.

As a result of the work performed, a rectangular shape should be formed around the perimeter of the walls, which does not have gaps with a side height of 30 cm.
In order for the resulting shape to acquire the necessary rigidity, vertically located planks need to be filled on the outside every 70 cm.
In addition, it is worth making wire ties between the parallel panels to prevent the walls of the formwork from being squeezed out by the pressure of the concrete mortar. It is recommended to arrange the screeds in 0.8-1.0 meter increments.
The last stage of formwork construction is assembly quality control. Make sure the structure is strong enough to withstand the pressure of the concrete. In addition, you should check whether the walls of the form are strictly vertical, otherwise the armopoyas will turn out to be crooked. It is imperative to inspect the form in order to exclude the presence of cracks through which the concrete solution could flow. Found small cracks should be clogged with tow, if found cracks are more than 1 cm wide, they will need to be clogged with a patch rail.

Further device armopoyas

The further device of the armopoyas consists in laying the reinforcing cage and pouring the forms with concrete. The reinforcement frame is recommended to be made of metal rods with a cross section of 8-10 mm, fastened together with a wire and horizontally laid in a mold. Every half a meter, the frame is fastened with a knitting wire ring.

It is important that after pouring the mortar, the reinforcement cage is completely immersed in the concrete. Therefore, you need to make sure that the metal rods do not come into contact with the walls of the formwork. Fragments of bricks or other suitable material are placed under the frame from below.

At the last stage of construction, concrete solution is poured into molds and compacted. In the event that a removable formwork was used, they are dismantled 3-4 days after pouring the mold.

So, an armored belt is an important element of a building that ensures its stability and strength. If you wish, you can assemble the formwork for the construction of this structure, install a frame made of reinforcement and lay concrete on your own without involving professionals.

One of the important stages in the construction of a building from a block or brick of one kind or another is the creation of a concrete armored belt in the upper part of the house or between its floors. This part of the building structure will serve to strengthen the walls, not allowing them to disperse to the sides, which may cause cracks. An armopoyas is especially necessary for floor slabs when erecting multi-storey buildings, since it will help to evenly distribute the load on the walls. Also, this monolithic reinforced concrete structure, created around the entire perimeter of the walls, will reduce the load on the lintels above the window openings.

Making a frame from reinforcement

The very concept of "armopoyas" implies the presence of a reinforcing cage inside the concrete product. It is with the formation of this structural element that the implementation of this construction task must begin. To tie the frame, you need to stock up on reinforcement with a cross section of 8-12 mm, which will play the role of a longitudinal core. Depending on the thickness of the rods, the type of construction project and the degree of seismic activity of the region in which the building will be erected, 4 or more such cores can enter the armored belt device, located in parallel at some distance from each other.

To fix the reinforcement in the desired position, it is tied along its entire length to rectangular rings made of steel wire with a cross section of 5-6 mm.

It is better to place the rods inside the rings. The distance between the rings should be about 30 cm if they are above a solid wall, and above the window lintels it should be 15 cm.It is important to correctly calculate the dimensions of the frame so that it fits freely inside the formwork and then its parts do not protrude from the concrete. The decisive factor for meeting this condition is the appropriate size of the rings.

Installing the reinforcement cage on the wall

The finished frame should be laid out around the entire perimeter of the building on top of the last row of blocks or bricks that make up the wall.

The weight of the frame assembly is quite decent, so lifting it up the wall alone can be a problem. And in general, it will be very difficult to make an armopoyas with your own hands without outside help.

If the house is large enough, then more than one frame may be needed for each wall. All parts of the product installed separately directly on the wall must be connected together, making an overlap of at least 25 cm, which should be taken into account when constructing the frame. And the places where its perpendicularly located parts converge should be connected with corner segments made of pieces of reinforcement, tying them with wire.

To make the armopoyas better connected to the wall, you can hammer or concrete hooks from the reinforcement into it from above, every meter.

Construction of temporary formwork

The next step is to install the formwork, for which you can use either factory panels or self-made boards. In order for the formwork panels to have support, through holes are punched in the wall using a perforator at a certain level, into which the rods are inserted.

The formwork elements are installed from the outer and inner sides of the walls on the ends of the reinforcement sticking out of them and pressed with special nuts (1).

As you can see in the photo, rods with screwed nuts can also be used to tighten the upper parts of the shields together (2), but it is better to use clamps (3). If such devices are not available, then you can make brackets from a metal rod with a section of 24 mm and put them on top of the formwork box.

And then, with the help of wooden wedges, you need to press the shields against the wall.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure that they are level relative to all spatial coordinates.

In order for the armopoyas to be poured continuously and the resulting reinforced concrete structure to be truly monolithic, the installation of the formwork must be completed around the entire perimeter of the house. In addition, it is necessary to prepare in advance the means of production and think over the order of actions of each participant in the work. For pouring, you can use either imported concrete, or made independently using a concrete mixer from cement, sand and crushed stone, which are mixed in a ratio of 1: 2: 4, respectively. The second option implies the presence of a concrete mixer and a larger number of workers, while the first one only prepares a place for unloading the concrete mass.

Someone should load the working mixture into containers and transfer it to the scaffolding. The people at the top take buckets of concrete and lift them with a rope.

They also pour the working mixture into the space formed by the shuttering panels.

Another worker compacts the concrete with a deep vibrator, levels it to the level of the top of the formwork box, rubbing and smoothing it.

But how to make an armopoyas under a roof with rafters, if floor slabs will not be used in the building according to the construction project? If a structure of wooden trusses is being built for the roof, then inside the armopoyas (while the concrete is still fresh), in certain places at an appropriate distance from each other, you need to insert mortgages intended for fastening the rafters.

When the concrete becomes solid, you can start disassembling the formwork.

Upon completion of this business, it remains only to admire the appearance of the finished product with a calm soul.

It is possible that the implementation of the construction task discussed in this article is a laborious process, but, nevertheless, it is very important, since it is necessary to fill the armopoyas in order to ensure better resistance of the structure to destructive factors, and this will serve the durability of the building and extend its service life.

The reinforcing belt of the structure, or "armopoyas", is a necessary element in the construction of houses built from block building materials, for example, from bricks, and even more so from foam concrete or aerated concrete blocks. Depending on the structure of the building, the structure may contain from one to three reinforcing belts. They are usually located at different levels.

Armopoyas are a kind of "skeleton" of the house, which connects its structure into a single whole. They protect the structure from damage due to shock wind loads or seasonal fluctuations in the soil.

The first armopoyas house is usually built at the level of the basement floor, the second - below the level of the windows and the third above the windows and doorways of the building.

Finished reinforcing belt - photo

Armopoyas: design and purpose

Reinforcement belts are often referred to as seismic belts. Thus, their main purpose becomes clear. However, the word "seismic" should not be understood as referring exclusively to natural and destructive disasters. Seismic resistance is also understood to mean slow soil vibrations, for example, due to seasonal thawing or freezing of soils.

Also, the armopoyas evenly distributes the load placed on it on the lower ranks of the building structure. Thus, the upper reinforcing belt located above the doorways and windows evenly distributes the load of the roof structure onto the load-bearing walls.

The main structural elements of the reinforcing belt are a spatial structure made of metal reinforcement and a cement-sand screed - concrete, which is poured into the formwork and covers the power frame of the armopoyas.

The procedure for forming an armopoyas for a house with your own hands

Let us analyze the procedure for the construction of a reinforcing belt located in the upper part of the building, for example, above window and door openings.

Create a metal power frame

First of all, it is necessary to form the metal frame of the armored belt. For this, steel reinforcement is used. Support rods must be installed along the perimeter of the building - they are hammered into building blocks.
After that, the formation of the frame begins. As a rule, a reinforcing belt has two horizontal power layers - metal rods interconnected, which are located along the perimeter of the building walls.
Horizontal belts should be located at some distance (usually about five centimeters from the lower and upper surface of the armopoyas, so that the concrete mass eventually covers them completely.
Longitudinal metal rods are interconnected by horizontal bridges, and the layers are interconnected by vertical bridges. It is possible to form a single power frame from a horizontal and vertical jumper - as shown in the photo.
Please note that at the corner joints and junction points of the inner walls, the metal rods should not just intersect, but bend and go over each other, so that the ends of the adjacent rods go over each other by about ten centimeters. Thus, increased structural strength is achieved.

Between themselves, the metal rods of the frame can be fixed in different ways. So, metal fittings, which have the beech "C" in their marking, can be connected by electric welding. This method fixes the rods without play, which can damage their connections when exposed to the mass of concrete for pouring.

Also, metal rods can be interconnected with a knitting wire. Each connection will take from 20 to 30 centimeters of wire. The wire folded in half is wrapped diagonally around the intersection, and then twisted with pliers or a crochet hook (a pointed and bent piece of metal bar).

The simplest way to fix the rods of the metal frame will be to bundle them with construction plastic clamps. They are sold at any building supplies store and are extremely easy to use.

After placing and fixing the metal rods of the armored belt power frame, it is necessary to prepare the formwork for pouring the concrete solution.

A very effective way to create formwork is to create a removable collapsible wooden structure - a kind of constructor. It can then be used when pouring the following reinforcement belts.

When designing wooden formwork, it is very important to maintain the upper horizontal surface. To do this, it is necessary to regularly use the building level, and before starting the construction of the structure, create reference points at the corners of the future formwork.

Alternatively, the formwork can be made from thick sheets of polystyrene - in the future, this foamed polymer can serve as a reliable insulation for your future home.

Particular attention should be paid to strengthening the vertical walls of the formwork system. The concrete solution has a very high mass and density and, therefore, after pouring, it can destroy a fragile structure. To strengthen the structure, the supporting pillars of the wooden formwork must be pulled together with strong wire - as shown in the photo. Inside, the formwork can be laid with a waterproofing material, for example, dense polyethylene. It also makes sense to lay the formwork along the bottom with rolled insulating material, for example, roofing material. It will serve as an additional layer of thermal insulation.

Reinforcing belt concreting

A certain difficulty is the delivery of concrete to the formwork of reinforcing belts located at a high level. In order not to carry a heavy concrete mass in buckets, you can order a machine - a concrete mixer, which has a pump in its configuration, which can lift the concrete mass to a height.

A typical slurry composition for creating a reinforcing belt includes one part cement, two parts sand, and two parts buttered stone such as crushed stone.

To prevent the spreading of the concrete solution, it can be kneaded thicker, but at the same time it is necessary to actively use the compaction of the laid solution in order to prevent the formation of air pockets in the concrete mass. The concrete solution can be compacted with a wooden rammer or special vibration machines.

Maturation of concrete mix

The ripening of the concrete sweep of the reinforcing belt occurs over a fairly long period, usually several weeks. In order to prevent excessive evaporation of moisture from the concrete solution during maturation, it must be covered with an insulating material, such as plastic wrap.

It is necessary to maintain the moisture content of the maturing concrete by regular moistening, pouring it with water from a hose. The slower the concrete mass matures, the more strength it acquires.

Video - do-it-yourself armopoyas

Armopoyas is an indispensable element during construction. It performs many important functions, which will be discussed in this article.

In general, a reinforcing belt is a monolithic reinforced concrete structure encircling the load-bearing or at least the outer walls of the building. There are several names for this element: seismic belt, unloading belt, reinforced belt, armored belt, etc. In any case, it is a frame or mesh made of reinforcement, filled with concrete. A prerequisite for any armo-belt is that it should not be interrupted, and therefore the filling is performed in a circular manner without interruptions, at a time.

Armopoyas performs several main functions:

Strengthens the walls and does not allow them to "disperse".
Evenly distributes the load on the walls of the lower floor from the side of the walls of the upper one.
Avoids uneven building shrinkage and cracking.
Performs leveling of masonry by distributing liquid concrete strictly in a horizontal plane.
Sometimes point loads occur due to distortions or mistakes of builders, and the use of an armored belt allows you to avoid these harmful phenomena.

Depending on the construction method, the number of storeys of the building, the type of foundation and the geological features of the area, from one to 4 reinforced belts are used.

When the armopoyas is not needed

I will say right away that interfloor and under-roof armo-belts are always needed.

In the case of a monolithic foundation on a cushion slab, a grillage and a basement armored belt are not needed.

They are also not used in the construction of wooden and frame-panel houses, although sometimes pile grillages are used when the house is on swampy soil, and also when they want to additionally strengthen an already not so strong structure.

The pile grillage performs the functions of a basement armored belt, so its construction is quite rational.

If the grillage is not made under the prefabricated strip foundation, then the second belt can also not be done, there will be no benefit from it, and such a house will not stand for long.

Types of reinforced belts

There are 4 main types of armored belts in total:

grillage, or basement armored belt, as well as pile grillage;
armopoyas between the foundation and walls of the building, basement armopoyas;
reinforced belt along the upper row of walls, on which floor slabs will be laid (interfloor belt);
unloading belt under the roof, to which the Mauerlat will be attached.

If the number of storeys in a building increases, the number of interfloor belts increases accordingly.

Now it is worth considering each of the listed reinforced belts separately.

Grillage

The grillage is the lower, most often underground armopoyas, on which the walls of the strip foundation rest. Also, an armored belt is called a grillage, which connects individual pillars or piles of columnar or pile foundations. In this case, he, most often, plays the role of a basement belt.

If the reinforced belt performs the function of supporting the walls of the strip foundation, then it is necessary to dig a trench under it to a depth that the engineer must determine based on climatic, geodetic, seismic and other initial data of the area selected for construction. The bottom of the trench is covered with sand mixed with rubble, sometimes with clean sand, if the soil is hard and not watery.

The height of the grillage is usually 30-50 cm, and the width is from 70 to 120 cm. Unlike other types of belts, the grillage fits under all the load-bearing walls of the structure. The lower belt should be the strongest, because the whole house will stand on it. This element will experience the most severe loads associated with soil shrinkage and creeping, exposure to soil moisture, etc.

It is better to use the reinforcement 12-14 mm with a transverse strapping of 10 mm. Strapping step - no more than 200 mm. First, we lay two reinforcing rods 6 meters long on the ground and weld with a transverse piece of reinforcement along the edges and in the middle. We knit the rest of the transverse pieces with wire, since welding changes the strength of the reinforcement by means of temperature exposure, or, more simply, “lets go” of the metal.

Next, we make the same "ladder", after which we weld these ladders with crossbars at the ends and in the middle, as before. We knit the rest of the crossbars, just knit! So we got a reinforcing cage that will be laid in the grillage. Dimensions (thickness and height) should be done so that the concrete covers the reinforcement by 5 cm on all sides. If the reinforcement touches the ground or "looks" out, it will quickly rot and the solidity of the structure will be broken.

This is the foundation of the house and must be strong. It is better to make a grillage with a safety margin of 20-30%, not sparing reinforcement and not saving on the grade of concrete. It will pay off later.

The columnar grillage also distributes the load and ties the individual pillars together, preventing them from moving apart. It also does not allow point shrinkage of the house to occur, but forces the building to "grow" into the ground evenly and equally at all points.

However, the pile and columnar grillage is often made of wood, calling it a strapping. This is not considered an armored belt.

Base armopoyas

After the walls of the prefabricated strip foundation, for example, of concrete blocks or bricks, have been built on a solid grillage, a reinforced belt should be built again. The walls of the foundation can protrude above the ground, they can be flush with it, we build an armored belt regardless of this.

It is believed that if the grillage is made correctly and its strength is not in doubt, then the basement belt can not be particularly strengthened. But we are building "for centuries", so we will not save on the durability of the house and its strength, but we do not need to overspend either.

For example, it is generally accepted that the basement belt is arranged only along the perimeter of the outer walls, but if the floors are slabs, it is better to do it along all load-bearing walls. If external wall insulation is planned, then the width of the armopoyas is equal to the width of the wall. If there is no insulation, then the width of the armored belt must be made taking into account the insulation, or the prepared strips of expanded polystyrene should be inserted under the formwork before pouring.

Reinforcement, in principle, is sufficient and mesh, that is, without a frame, as is the case with the grillage. For the mesh, we use three longitudinal rods of 12 mm and the step of the transverse rods is 10 cm. The height of the belt is usually 20-40 cm. It is better to make 40 or at least 30, this will be stronger and more reliable. Do not forget about waterproofing gaskets made of a double layer of roofing material or other material so that moisture does not rise up into your house through the capillaries of concrete. This, of course, does not negate the waterproofing of the foundation, but it is still required to be used.

Interfloor reinforced belt

The interfloor belt is constructed to strengthen the walls and evenly distribute the load from the slabs to the entire box of the house. That is why this belt is called unloading belt.

It also does not allow the walls to part, which tend to do this under the action of axial loads. And, in the end, he evens out the plane of the box crown, which can "walk" even with a master mason.

Interfloor belts are best done with a frame of 4 longitudinal reinforcing rods 12 mm, 40 cm high and as wide as the walls, taking into account thermal insulation. It must be laid on all load-bearing walls. Many argue that only the grillage needs to be laid under all walls, but the floor slabs will press on all supporting structures, so it is better to do the interfloor armored belt along all the walls.

Under-roof or Mauerlat armopoyas

This is also a rather important belt. Firstly, it distributes the load from the rafter system, gables and the roof as a whole. Secondly, it allows you to securely fix the Mauerlat. Thirdly, he, again, levels the horizontal of the box, which is important for the successful construction of the rafter system, where geometric accuracy is important.

The last armo-belt is performed by analogy with the previous one. If the laying of the slabs is not planned, then the belt is mounted along the perimeter of the outer walls, and if the rafters are inclined, then laying on the middle load-bearing wall, on which the ridge racks and the bed will rest, will not interfere.

Formwork and concrete work

Formwork is usually made of boards that are assembled into shields on the ground and fastened to the wall for quick assembly. Sometimes the boards are stitched with reinforcement and welded together by welding the knob. Also, this role can be performed by steel wire, which is threaded into pre-drilled holes and pulled together with a lever from a reinforcement or a metal bar.

From above, the formwork boards are connected by scraps of timber or boards. In general, the methods of reinforcing the formwork depend on the casting methods: if the casting is carried out from a sufficient height, then the formwork should be strengthened as much as possible. If concrete will be poured from buckets, then such reinsurance will not be needed. Particular attention should be paid to shield joints, corners and turns.

The lower part of the formwork takes the greatest load, therefore, sometimes it is nailed down with reinforcement with a welded lintel, which does not allow the board to move away from the wall.

The reinforcement frame is laid in such a way that the rods are covered on all sides with a layer of concrete of at least 5 cm.

Since the pouring is carried out at a height, it is advisable to use a concrete pump or a special funnel with a locking mechanism, which will be filled with concrete and open as needed to fill the formwork. Such a funnel should be transported by a crane.

The basics of monolithic casting, vibration and other similar issues are described in detail in our other articles, for example, in the article “Strip foundation. Part 3: concreting, final operations ”. You can read about the choice of cement in the article "How to choose a cement". The only caveat regarding formwork casting at height is the safety issue. You should also carefully vibrate so as not to damage the formwork and frame.

The formwork is removed with a crowbar or crowbar. In hot weather, this can be done in a day, in cold weather, it is better to wait two or three days. Concrete grade must be used at least M400.

So you found out:

armopoyas - a necessary element of the supporting structure;
armopoies are of several types, and all of them are necessary under certain circumstances;
armopoyas is not a structurally complex element;
the cost of the reinforced belt justifies the benefits obtained.

Of course, it is better that all work on determining the parameters, applicability, necessity and other features of this structural element, as well as its manufacture, should be carried out by experienced specialists. This is the part that is almost impossible to remake, but it performs important functions. Therefore, it is better to save on something else: wallpaper or railings on the porch, but not on an armored belt.

Sergey Leshchinsky, rmnt.ru

The device of an armored belt increases the strength of the bearing walls and the resistance of the entire structure to various loads: uneven shrinkage of soils and objects, wind effects, seismic vibrations and temperature extremes.

Armopoyas device photo

Formwork for armopoyas. Types and methods of the device

Armopoyas is a monolithic reinforced concrete structure. The belt has an annular contour, settles on the walls, and has no breaks (gaps) in its body. The solution to the question: how to make the armopoyas correctly begins with the formwork device. The most affordable formwork material is board. The formwork for the armored belt is made either from separate boards, or from ready-made wooden panels, connected to each other from the outside by wooden scraps. From below, the boards are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. On top, the opposite walls of the formwork are connected with wooden ties (on nails). The step of the ties is 80 cm, but not more than 100 cm.

Armopoyas do it yourself

Performing an armopoyas with your own hands, you can use another option for its creation, in which not wooden structures, but U-shaped blocks of aerated concrete serve as formwork. Trough blocks are laid with the same width as the wall and have a cavity inside for laying the connected reinforcement cage and concrete. It is especially advantageous to arrange a belt with such a "formwork" along the outer walls, because the side walls of the U-shaped blocks perform the functions of insulation and exclude the formation of cold "bridges". The disadvantage of tray blocks is the high price.

How to make an armopoyas efficiently

The geometric and technical characteristics of a monolithic structure are determined by calculation. Usually the width of the belt is equal to the width of the wall, 30-50cm. Since the support of a prefabricated or monolithic ceiling on the walls is only 120 cm (in practice - 150-200 cm), then based on this, the width of the belt can be taken as a smaller size. The recommended height of the armopoyas is 30cm.

In cottages where it is planned to create light floors, installation in a belt of a flat frame is allowed. The ladder frame is prepared directly on the wall, directly in the formwork. It consists of 2 rods (3 rods for a wide wall) of a periodic profile (diameter by calculation), interconnected by transverse rods. The pitch of the rods is 50 cm. The armopoyas under the floor slabs bears higher loads. Therefore, the frame is made three-dimensional from 4 or 6 longitudinal reinforcing bars and tied with transverse wire clamps.

Armopoyas on aerated concrete

The frame on all sides must have a protective layer of concrete 4-5 cm. From below it is laid on props made of brick or concrete chips. It should be noted that an armored belt is arranged on aerated concrete not only along the outer walls, but also along the load-bearing inner walls. And if along the length of the wall, the transverse rods and clamps can be connected with a knitting wire, then at the corners of the structure and at the points of branching of the frame to the internal load-bearing walls, the connection of the longitudinal reinforcement and transverse elements is performed by welding. The level frame is set strictly horizontally.

Armopoyas under the Mauerlat

When installing a roof truss structure, its lower row - a mauerlat, is attached to the supporting wall with special anchors and studs. The rafter system itself creates a bursting load, which can lead to deformation of the walls. Armopoyas under the roof provides wall strength, stable rigidity of the roofing system. It will be performed in the same way as for the installation of a monolithic belt under the floor. Armopoyas under the Mauerlat serves both to distribute the load on the entire surface of the wall, and to lay fasteners in it for the Mauerlat itself.

How to fill the armopoyas

The task: how to fill the armopoyas is solved at the final stage of the device of a monolithic structure. For pouring, you can use ready-made commercial concrete mix of the M200 (B15) brand. Another option is making concrete at the construction site. Cement M400, sand and crushed stone, are taken in a ratio of 1: 3: 5. All components are loaded into a concrete mixer, water is added to the desired consistency and mixed. It is important that the concrete is poured into the formwork continuously and not in parts. To remove air bubbles from the mixture, after pouring the concrete mixture, vibrate or intensively pierce the concrete along the entire length of the belt with a piece of reinforcement.

Armopoyas for brick aerated concrete

In practice, as an option to strengthen wall structures, sometimes an armored belt is made for aerated concrete from bricks. It is a conventional solid brick masonry, reinforced with reinforcement. Reinforcement is carried out with a masonry mesh made of wire: 4-5mm through each row of masonry in height. The mortar is used cement-sand in a ratio of 1: 4. The height of a brick belt is taken from 20 cm to 40 cm. The width of the belt can correspond to the width of the wall, but maybe narrower. Of course, an armored belt made of bricks cannot be called equivalent in strength characteristics to a reinforced concrete belt. However, it is reliable when building houses in areas with low seismic activity or for the construction of auxiliary facilities and outbuildings.

Warming armopoyas

To prevent the reinforced belt from becoming a "bridge" of cold and in order to avoid the formation of condensation on it, it is necessary to insulate the armopoyas. Therefore, a monolithic or brick belt, most often, is performed not over the entire width of the wall, but with an indent from its outer edge. It is important to maintain the minimum width of the reinforced belt equal to 20 cm for concrete and 25 cm for bricks. The resulting longitudinal niches are filled with heat-insulating material, which are aerated concrete partition blocks laid on spoons (10 cm), expanded polystyrene plates and other materials.

The reinforced monolithic or brick belt gives the building structures of the house made of aerated concrete blocks with increased strength. And for all household members, he becomes the guarantor of a safe, long and happy stay in a new home.

A reinforced belt, also known as a monolithic belt or seismic belt, is a special design designed to solve two problems. First, distribute the load from what will be on top to what will be on the bottom. And, secondly, to connect the entire plane on which it is located, into a single whole. Both a monolithic concrete armored belt and a reinforced brick one cope with the distribution of the load. They both do an excellent job of distributing loads from, say, floor slabs to walls. If the task is also to tie the walls into a single whole, for example, from the expanding load of the roof rafters on the walls of the house, then here you need a reinforced concrete belt.

How to make an armopoyas with your own hands

We figured out what the armopoyas is, let's find out how to make it with our own hands. With a brick armored belt, everything is simple. Usually, it is made of solid red brick of the minimum grade M100 in several rows with reinforcement with a masonry mesh. You can also reinforce the masonry with reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. With a concrete, monolithic armored belt, the situation is more complicated.

First you need to set up the formwork. It can be both wooden formwork, and "tray" or fixed formwork, if we are talking about an armored belt on aerated concrete or foam concrete blocks. You can use factory-made U-boxes or custom made trays. To do this, it is not necessary to cut a U-block out of a conventional gas block. It is enough to make a masonry from a thin gas block from the outside and inside. The space between these blocks can be insulated with extruded polystyrene.

After you have made the formwork, a reinforcement frame is placed inside the tray.

Sufficient reinforcement for an armored belt measuring 200 by 200 mm is a frame of 4 reinforcement threads with a diameter of 12 mm (two at the top and at the bottom), fastened with transverse clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm every 30-50 cm.

Standard reinforcement overlap should be 30-40 diameters. That is, if you put 12 mm reinforcement, then building it up, you need to make an overlap of about 40 cm.

In the corners, reinforcement is necessary fold over so that the corner is tied by one-piece reinforcement.

It is advisable to put the reinforcement frame on plastic clips of the thickness of the concrete cover. And put the clips on the vertical clamps. If there are no factory fixers of the protective layer, you can use pieces of stone, brick, etc.

Studs under the Mauerlat or pieces of reinforcement are attached to the reinforcement cage for subsequent fixation of the floor slabs.

Now you can proceed directly to pouring the armored belt with concrete.

If you will pour in purchased concrete, choose the M200-M250 brand. This brand of strength is enough for private construction.

If you plan to prepare concrete for pouring the armopoyas yourself, then use the universal recipe for the proportions of concrete for the armopoyas: 1 part of cement grade 500, 2 parts of sand, 4 parts of crushed stone.

You can also use one of ours to calculate the composition of concrete. Do not forget to add concrete plasticizer to the batch. This will make the filling more convenient for you, and the resulting armored belt more durable.

After pouring, cover the armo-belt with a film, in order to avoid sudden drying. For the same purpose, wet the concrete for the first 2-3 days.

Armopoyas will be ready for loading in a week. Full concrete maturation will be completed 28 days after pouring.

The most frequent questions about the reinforced belt.

In what cases is an armopoyas needed?

A monolithic reinforced concrete belt is required:

on a block foundation
on walls made of aerated concrete, foam blocks, etc. for hollow core slabs and wooden floor beams (to avoid punching). Here the armopoyas can be brick
under the Mauerlat on the roof, the design of which assumes a spacer load on this very Mauerlat

Is it possible to fill the armopoyas in winter, in frost?

Filling the armopoyas in the winter is a dubious activity. However, if you really need to pour it in during the cold season, take all measures to protect the concrete. Add special anti-freeze additives to concrete. Use as little water as possible for mixing the concrete. After pouring, be sure to cover the armored belt to protect it from the cold. For example, sawdust. In subzero temperatures, use a special heating cable. It is sold in any building supermarket.

What is the minimum thickness, height, width, size of the armopoyas?

The minimum size of the armopoyas is 150 x 150 mm. But not less than the width of the support of the slabs or floor beams.

The armopoyas freezes, what should I do?

If you or your employees forgot to insulate the armopoyas before pouring, then it will have to be insulated now. They insulate the armopoyas outside.

Condensation on the armopoyas. Armopoyas sweats. What to do?

Insulate. More options: increase the temperature in the room, reduce the humidity in the room.

Is it possible to fill the armopoyas with parts?

Can. To do this, make a bevel at the junction. And the concrete doesn't have to be smooth.