Perhaps, monolithic reinforced concrete stairs are not as common in the private sector as wooden or frame ones, but they are also quite popular. They captivate with their solidity and massiveness, as well as huge possibilities in terms of finishing, not least of all attracted by their long service life. Among the craftsmen of the portal, such structures are also in demand, thanks to which they have accumulated a lot of experience both in design and in execution independently or under personal control.

Consider:

• Monolithic stairs - constructive, varieties.
• Features of designing a monolithic staircase.
• Monolithic staircase construction technology.
• How to prepare the formwork for a monolithic staircase.
• Reinforcement of a monolithic staircase.
• Monolithic staircase concreting.

Monolithic concrete stairs

Monolithic reinforced concrete stairs are load-bearing stationary structures, poured directly on site, necessarily including a reinforcing cage. Depending on the dimensions and type of stairs, the reinforcement cage can be independent or connected to the wall.

As for the form, concrete provides no less opportunities than wood or metal, monolithic stairs can be anything:

• marching;
• with winder steps;
• screw;
• on a bowstring, with a gap between the steps;
• on the stringer.

According to the execution of the bottom, monolithic stairs are divided into two types:

• full-bodied - with a smooth bottom;
• mirrored - with a curly bottom.

Naturally, the more complex the form of the structure, the more complex the calculations and implementation, the marching concrete stairs are considered the simplest. But they also need more space, the march should be laid initially, but it is more realistic to "squeeze" a staircase with end-to-end steps into the opening more modestly, although it is considered less convenient.

Features of the design of monolithic stairs

Ideally, monolithic stairs should be laid at the design stage, since, due to their massiveness, they require more space and a reinforced base. For example, if you first fill in a warm floor, and then decide that you want a monolith, this will cause certain difficulties.

Pozitivnyi member of FORUMHOUSE

I would not lean the ladder on a warm floor. There is insulation under it, which can play, and the screed can burst, damaging the pipes. We usually remove part of the screed and make a pile foundation in the area of ​​the first step, its farthest part from the wall.

A ladder, regardless of the type and material chosen, must first of all be safe and functional - with comfortable steps, at least an acceptable angle of inclination and a sufficient span.

For the calculation of monolithic stairs, the same rules apply as for the rest:

• When calculating the length of the march, the thickness of the flooring is taken into account.
• The optimal march width is 1000-1200 mm, the minimum is 900 mm.
• The number of steps in the march is a maximum of 15 pieces.
• The height of the comfortable steps is 150-170 mm, the maximum is 200 mm.
• Tread width - 250-300 mm.
• The optimal tilt angle is 30-37⁰, maximum - 45⁰ (along the middle axis).

There is a calculation formula: 2a + b = 640, where a is the height of the step, b is the width of the step, and 640 mm is the average length of our step. Portal craftsmen use another formula to calculate monolithic stairs.

Iosich

The norm is when according to the formula: the riser plus the tread is 45 cm, or the riser plus the tread, plus the riser is 58-62 cm.

A self-developed project can be drawn either on paper or in a special constructor. The second option is preferable, since a virtual 3D model is obtained, and the computer performs the main calculations based on the input. This is especially true when it comes to structures with winders.

Iosich

A correctly designed staircase should have the same height of all risers and the same size of the tread of all steps along the axis of the running strip (usually in the middle of the march). For straight stairs, such a calculation is easy to do, but the run-down steps are already more problematic. Often this rule (about the same size) is not observed in the manufacture of such stairs, and as a result, there is discomfort when using them in the future. I do not count on hand-to-hand stairs. Arkon copes with this task perfectly. I place a staircase of the required type on the plan, set the parameters, observe the model in 3D.

Monolithic staircase construction technology

The process of erecting a monolithic staircase consists of three main stages:

• assembly of formwork;
• reinforcement;
• concreting.

Finishing work is, although a mandatory, finishing stage, but can often be decently spaced in time, especially when the stairs are being erected simultaneously with the box.

Formwork for a monolithic staircase

In order to immediately get a sufficiently smooth surface, the formwork is assembled from smooth materials, mainly waterproof plywood with a thickness of 20 mm or more. If there is a financial opportunity or expediency (several stairs), then it is better to choose laminated plywood. The bottom and sidewalls are assembled from plywood; to form the risers, an edged board with a thickness of 30-35 mm or a bar, 50 × 50 mm is used.

All elements of the formwork are cut out as accurately as possible and adjusted during assembly without the formation of cracks, if necessary, the joints are additionally sealed.

Long self-tapping screws are most often chosen as fasteners, metal corners and bars are used to strengthen the shape, the flanging is reinforced with a bar, the bottom is propped up with metal or wooden racks with step steps. If the staircase is of a complex shape (spiral, run-in steps), then instead of racks, carriers are sometimes made (crossbars, one end fixed to the wall, and the other to the sidewall). When using ordinary plywood from the inside, it is recommended to cover the formwork with foil or other insulation.

The formwork is usually assembled in two stages - first the bottom and the sidewall / sidewalls, and after the reinforcement cage has been laid, the crossbars are mounted under the steps. One of our craftsmen decided to try first to completely assemble the formwork, and only then to perform the reinforcement.

Golubev

At home I first made fittings, now I’ll try differently, yes, there will be difficulties - to knit and cook fittings under the steps (jumpers). But then it is not easy to install the jumpers on the fittings. And now I can immediately see here where and how to carry out the reinforcement. If any step interferes, then unscrew it - a couple of minutes, and so much more - return it to its place. The main thing is that this place is found, drawn, and the step is set in three dimensions in terms of level, painstaking work. And when there is still reinforcement underfoot, it is uncomfortable, so I try it this way.

Another craftsman of ours, professionally dealing with stairs, advises not to create unnecessary difficulties for yourself.

NickVas

A roll of cheap wallpaper - you draw a kosour (monolith), fasten it to the wall, setting it according to the level - mark the places for fittings and fasteners, drill, fasten the bars / boards directly according to the pattern on the wallpaper, then just rip the wallpaper off the wall!

Reinforcement of a monolithic staircase

To increase the strength of the structure and prevent the edges of the steps and flights from crumbling, reinforcement must be performed - longitudinal and transverse. Steel reinforcement with a periodic profile with a diameter of 10-14 mm (longitudinal reinforcement is thicker) is used, from which a spatial frame is formed in the form of a mesh with a cell of 100-200 mm, depending on the parameters of the march. The reinforcement is fixed to each other with a knitting net using a hook or by welding. To withstand the thickness of the protective layer (2 cm), special ones are used today.

If the design of the staircase provides for support into the wall through reinforcement, then usually the rods are simply hammered, but if the wall is made of materials characterized by a reduced bearing capacity, for example, aerated concrete, our craftsmen advise making pits.

Pozitivnyi

Do not drive reinforcement into aerated concrete, this will not give the required support area for the stairs, it is better to make pits and run the reinforcement there, and then fill it all with concrete. Here's an example.

Thanks to this technique, rather heavy stairs can be supported on aerated concrete walls.

Pozitivnyi

If you make holes in the wall at least 10x10 cm, then the support area will be 100 cm², and if you drive in the reinforcement, then 10 cm². The brand of aerated concrete is from 35 to 50, therefore, 100 cm² will withstand from 300 to 500 kg. This means that twenty pits will provide a load from 6 to 10 tons, plus the staircase will stand against the walls, plus a support on the first step, plus a support on the floor slab.

Reinforcement can be single or double, the opinions of our craftsmen on this matter were divided - some believe that it is better to install two meshes, so that for sure, others that for most structures one is enough. The forum is devoted to this issue. In short, one-layer reinforcement is advocated by alexxxxx, one of the professionals who make custom-made monolithic stairs.

alexxxxx

Reinforcement in monolithic structures is needed in the tension zone, but what is the tension in the upper part of the slab? There the reinforcement lies with a dead weight - this is the first thing. Double reinforcement is required in very rare cases, doing it on all stairs is a transfer of material and extra work, this is the second. Third, the total number of fittings in percentage terms is regulated by SNIP. If for me with a single-layer reinforcement this percentage approaches the limit, then with a two-layer reinforcement this SNIP percentage will definitely be exceeded. Fourth, on a span of three meters, I use reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm with a step of 120-130 mm. For comparison, a monolithic floor slab of six meters is reinforced with the same reinforcement with a step of 200 mm. What will be stronger? Of my more than 100 ladders made, three were made under the supervision of technical supervision, the technical supervision did not make any comments on the reinforcement - this is the fifth.

According to alexxxxx, double reinforcement is justified when:

• there is a pinching of the top and bottom - if there is no third support;
• there is no support at all on the bottom and top, and the structure "hangs" embedded in the wall;
• ladder on one stringer - the upper reinforcement and clamps prevent twisting of the stringer;
• with thin monolithic steps, for example, one lateral kosour - the lower reinforcement of the steps works in compression, and the upper one in tension;
• the flight of the stairs crosses the retaining wall (it is necessary to reduce the thickness of the lower layer so that, together with the upper one, it does not exceed the permissible percentage).

The exception is typical factory marches, designed for high throughput and use both inside and outside - they always have double reinforcement.

One of the moderators of our forum has a different point of view.

Rolandspb

I usually always do two nets in the stairs, no matter what. But in general, of course, they are not always needed. If stretching is evident in the lower zone, then reinforcement in the upper zone is not needed. But, in fact, the overrun on the upper mesh of the ladder is about 100 kg, you won’t gain much. Reinforcing stairs is quite difficult with several bends of the rods from the upper to the lower zone. I especially do not like the transition from the lower flight to the platform or slab. The bent shank may not work within a certain range. Therefore, I connect two rods (one from the lower zone of the slab, and the second from the lower zone of the march), each of which I anchor at the point of their intersection and bring it into the upper zone of the march and the slab, respectively. And in the transition from the slab to the upper flight - there, in my opinion, it is quite possible to leave just bent rods passing from the bottom of the plate to the bottom of the same flight. It is not a fact that this is exactly how it should be. But I do this. I am not campaigning for anyone.

Monolithic staircase concreting

For monolithic stairs, it is advisable to use factory concrete, a class from B20 (M250), and preferably B25 or B30. If it is not possible to order a ready-made solution, then a self-mix prepared in a concrete mixer is also suitable, but the use of plasticizers is mandatory. Typical ratio of cement, sand and crushed stone (fraction 10 × 20 mm) - 1/3/3, the solution should not be too liquid.

The ladder is poured in one approach, starting from the lower steps, moving up, each step must be vibrated to prevent the formation of voids. In the process of vibration, concrete squeezing or settling is possible, the excess is redistributed, after the final shrinkage, the surface of the steps is carefully smoothed out with a rule or a trowel. For a uniform set of strength, it is recommended to cover the concrete with a film and moisten it several times a day for a week.

After about a week, partial stripping is carried out - the crossbars and sides are removed in order to carry out a rough grinding. The bottom is removed no earlier than 3-4 weeks, when the structure gains the required strength. The next step will be finishing - installation of fences, plastering, cladding with wood, tiles, stone or other material. Previously, in the process of concreting, mortgages were necessarily made, today they have lost their relevance.

alexxxxx

Why mortgages? Will there be railings to weld on? It will turn out very aesthetically pleasing! And the railing installers will remember with a very "kind" word of the person who put these mortgages when they need to hammer out a hole for fasteners in this place. Now everyone has punchers, and the anachronism in the form of mortgages only interferes with the normal installation of the railing. Why do you need a mortgage when hidden fasteners look better. about a monolithic staircase using fixed formwork technology.

In private houses, stairs made of wood or monolithic reinforced concrete are most popular between floors. A comfortable and beautiful wooden staircase is an expensive pleasure. In a private house, it can be cheaper to build a simpler and more durable reinforced concrete staircase with your own hands.

Advantages and other features of a monolithic concrete staircase

Monolithic concrete stairs are rather heavy structures. Therefore, such stairs are made in houses with monolithic, prefabricated or.

Concrete stairs are built during the construction of the box at home. They can be used for their intended purpose immediately, before the end of the construction of the house.

Concrete stairs have high rigidity and strength, do not creak or vibrate.

Reinforced concrete stairs are safer due to their simple structure and massive steps.

Finishing, facing of concrete stairs during repair is easy to restore, replace.

It is difficult to make staircases of complex configuration or miniature out of concrete.

Design options for concrete stairs in a private house

The construction of a concrete staircase must be developed before starting the construction of a house, since it is necessary to provide embedded reinforcing steel anchors and other elements for fastening staircases and intermediate platforms in the ceilings and wall masonry.

Reinforcement outlets are made in the floor or load-bearing beam, which are connected with the reinforcement of the staircase. A staircase made of monolithic reinforced concrete in a private house consists of flights of stairs and an intermediate staircase between the flights.

The staircase is a reinforced concrete slab on which concrete steps are located.

Reinforcing frames of reinforced concrete floors, flights of stairs and landings are linked together into a single structure. Thanks to the joint work of reinforcement and monolithic concrete, the staircase has a very high rigidity and strength.

A staircase with a stringer made of monolithic reinforced concrete. Kosour is located along the longitudinal axis of the flight of stairs.

Kosour here is a reinforced concrete beam with ledges for supporting the steps. Cantilever steps are called steps, the ends of which do not have support.

The steps of the stairs on the stringer can be made of wood or of monolithic concrete. Wooden steps are attached to the stringer using metal embedded elements.

Formwork of a monolithic staircase on a stringer with concrete steps. The reinforcement frame of the cantilever steps made of concrete is connected to the reinforcement of the kosour.

Reinforced concrete stringers of stairs, as well as stair flights, can be installed either between interfloor floors, or between the ceiling and an intermediate staircase.

Reinforced concrete cantilever steps are pinned into the masonry of the wall.

A staircase is called closed if the gaps between the steps are closed by risers. Without risers, this is an open staircase.

Concrete for reinforced concrete stairs

For the manufacture of reinforced concrete stairs, concrete is used with a compressive strength of at least 20 MPa(class B20). Freshly laid concrete in the formwork must be carefully compacted by vibration.

Stairways and landings happen profitable to make from architectural (decorative) concrete... The surface of the steps and landings of such a staircase will not require additional cladding or finishing. It is better to order the production and laying of architectural concrete by specialists.

Where in the house to place a staircase made of concrete

In order for the staircase to be comfortable, safe and "quiet", it is necessary to successfully choose its location in the house, correctly arrange and determine the dimensions.

The modern architecture of a private house for placing stairs usually does not provide for special isolated staircases. The stairs are installed openly and are part of the interior of the living room, hallway or hallway.

It should be borne in mind that the staircase in the living room, as an element of the interior, makes higher demands on the appearance. The staircase in the living room should be more sophisticated, and therefore more expensive, than the staircase in the hallway, hallway or in an isolated staircase.

Compared to wooden stairs, concrete stairs look more heavy, they are simpler in shape and do not fit well into the interior of the living room.

For placing a concrete staircase, a place near the wall is more suitable.

How to choose the dimensions of the stairs

Choosing a stair slope

A comfortable and safe staircase should be sufficiently flat. Building regulations limit the steepness of stairs in a home. The slope of the stairs should not be more than 1: 1.25 (the ratio of the height of the staircase to its horizontal projection). In the figure below, this the maximum slope of about 40 o has a ladder 1.

Two ladder options: ladder 1- steep with an extreme slope, provides a minimum of comfort and safety, but takes up the minimum area in the house; stairs 2- a comfortable and safe staircase with a recommended slope.

So that the staircase in the house is comfortable enough and does not take up too much space it is recommended to choose a staircase slope of about 30 o, which corresponds to the ratio of the height of the flight of stairs to its horizontal projection as 1: 1.75. Ladder 2 in the picture above has such a slope.

Calculation of the dimensions of the steps of the stairs

After determining the slope - the height and horizontal projection of the staircase, at the second stage, calculate the optimal dimensions of the steps of the stairs.

The optimal dimensions of the steps of the stairs in a private house. For comfortable movement on the steps of the stairs, it is necessary to fulfill the condition indicated in the green frame.

Building regulations require the stair tread to be within h=16-19 cm.

For example, let's calculate the dimensions of stairs 2 in the figure. Taking into account the requirements of the rules, for further calculations we take the height of the step of our staircase h=17 cm.

Then, we find the number of steps in the flight of stairs. To do this, divide the height of the flight of stairs by the height of the step. Number of steps in a flight of stairs: 272 cm / 17 cm= 16 steps.

Construction rules limit the number of steps in one flight of stairs to no more than 18 steps. If this restriction cannot be met, then it is necessary to make two flights of stairs with an intermediate platform between them.

Knowing the number of steps, we calculate the width of the staircase tread. To do this, divide the size of the horizontal projection of the staircase by the number of steps. For staircase 2 in the figure, the calculated step width will be equal to s = 474 cm / 16 = 29 cm.

On a step 29 cm... the person's leg will feel confident and comfortable.

In conclusion, we check whether it will be comfortable to move up the stairs. To do this, we make a calculation using the formula indicated in the figure in the green frame: 2h + s = 60-65. For our staircase 2 * 17 cm+29 cm=63 cm- the condition of comfortable movement is fulfilled.

What should be the height of the steps without finishing?

A comfortable ladder should have all steps of the same height. It is best to decide what material to finish it with before starting the construction of the stairs - this will avoid surprises in the form of a difference in heights between individual steps.

If the floor and treads are to be finished with the same material or materials of the same thickness, all treads without finishing must have the same height.

If the materials have different thicknesses, the open height of the first step must be matched to the thickness of the material that will cover the tread and floor on both floors. The thickness of the ceramic tile (together with the adhesive layer) is approximately 2 cm, roll material - about 0.5 cm, stone cladding -3-4 cm, from wood - 4-5 cm.

Staircase width

Staircase width is the width of the passage between the stair railings, not the length of the step. The length of the step may be different, depending on the method of fixing the railing.

Building regulations require stairways to be at least 90 degrees wide cm... For the sake of comfort and ease of movement of furniture, it is recommended to increase the width of the passage to 110 cm.

Overhang of a step

Steps on stairs are usually performed with an overhang of 2-3 cm as in the picture above. The overhang is necessary so that the vertical surface under the step (riser) is less dirty and damaged.

On reinforced concrete stairs, which are faced with wood, the overhang of the steps is arranged by increasing the width of the wooden covering.

On stairs without wood cladding, the surface under the step (riser) is not made vertical, but inclined, so that the surface of the upper step hangs slightly over the lower one.

However, for concrete stairs, an overhang is not necessary.

Finishing of monolithic concrete stairs

Reinforced concrete stairs look too massive and therefore require a creative approach to decoration.

On a reinforced concrete staircase, you need to finish all parts of the step:

• horizontal planes, that is, treads;
• vertical - risers;
• as well as skirting boards - wall sections located directly above the steps.

The treads are covered with a non-slippery and abrasion-resistant material, at the same time the risers, which we most often touch with the toes of our shoes, must be shock-resistant.

How to choose a material for finishing?

The choice of material is influenced by the location of the staircase and the way the floor is finished on both floors. It is also worth asking yourself a few more important questions.

What is the shape of the flight of stairs? Steps of straight flights can be covered with almost any finishing material. For run-in steps, it is better not to choose materials that will have to be cut in place (ceramic tiles, stone cladding) - the steps will not look very aesthetically pleasing, and the material consumption will turn out to be excessively large.

Who will use the stairs? In a house where there are small children or the elderly, the stairs must be covered with a material that perfectly absorbs falls. If children often play on the steps, the facing material should also be warm (wood, carpet).

Should the staircase be quiet?

Different finishing materials absorb sound in different ways, which can affect the comfort of using the stairs.

Carpeting and wood are good at absorbing sounds, while stone and ceramic tiles sometimes amplify footsteps.

Will the staircase be damaged?

If the home improvement is not finished yet, you should take into account that the staircase may be damaged when moving the furniture. In this case, you should not choose soft woods or carpets that are prone to damage for finishing the steps.

Staircase finishing with soft material

Another inexpensive and easy way to finish the steps is to cover them with a soft material. Stairs with elastic lining are easy to keep clean and the carpet is warm and sound absorbing.

The finishing material must be carefully glued to the steps: if any fragments peel off, there is a risk of tripping and falling.

Roll material is thin and elastic. It can be laid without cutting, but the riser of a staircase finished in this way must be protected by a special profile made of metal or composite.

If it is a hard lining, then it will have to be cut, and each step must be laid separately.

Which roll cover is suitable for stairs?

Carpets must be easy to clean and dry quickly: polypropylene and polyamide coverings meet these conditions. Avoid choosing coverings with a long pile or thick backing such as felt.

Woolen covers are not suitable for stairs as they become easily soiled and difficult to clean. It is also better not to choose acrylics - they have low strength.

Carpets for stairs are additionally reinforced. It is better to choose those that are marked with a special pictogram.

Elastic coatings must be abrasion resistant, non-slip and non-flammable. The rubber coating meets these requirements. At the same time, it is better not to use vinyl as it is not resistant to dents and shoe polish can leave stubborn marks on it.

Wood - for a home with a soul

The wooden staircase evokes associations with the interiors of old houses. Thanks to its many advantages, it is also appreciated by owners of modern interiors.

Wood is warm to the touch, and it visually makes the room warmer. It is a springy material that absorbs falls well. Wood is readily used because of its plasticity and ease of processing: it can be adapted to steps of any shape.

Many people choose this material because of its natural color and layering pattern. But a staircase made of wood can also be painted or covered with a stain, thus giving it a completely different look.

Great opportunities are opened by the use of exotic wood, characterized by a rich palette of colors: from white - through yellow, red, brown, olive, green - to deep black.

Often only treads are made of wood, and the risers are left in white-painted plaster. Such a ladder is made not only for reasons of economy - it looks light and less monotonous.

But it should be remembered that white risers get dirty very quickly, the plaster can fall off, and the surface painted with paint is not so easy to clean. To avoid this, the risers must be plastered with a strong cement mortar.

Other materials can also be used to finish the risers: resin-based plaster, ceramic tiles and even steel sheet.

The risers are finished with mosaic plaster. Against its background, the treads of light oak stand out expressively

For the treads, an oak board was used, and for the risers, stone or ceramic tiles.

Dark wood overlays protect the tread surface and top of the riser

A staircase with a straight flight can be finished with almost any material. In this case, dark wood was used, contrasting with the color of the walls.

White painted risers make a staircase with wooden steps feel lighter

Ceramic tiles - for practical

It is so diverse that it allows you to equip a staircase for any interior. Lavishly decorated tiles in a southern style create the atmosphere of a Greek tavern, imitating the old stones of the floor tiles of the country house, and the sparkling polished porcelain stoneware of the modern residence.

Is this a good ladder material from a practical point of view? The tile is cold, hard and does not absorb falls. Moreover, it is easy to keep clean, it is cheaper than stone, and much more durable than wood. It does not burn - in the event of a fire, it does not contribute to the spread of fire between floors.

However, if all elements of the staircase are tiled, it will look too monotonous. The combination of ceramic tiles with other materials, such as wood, gives interesting effects.

Which tile is right for the stairs?

Tiles with certain parameters are suitable for stairs: they must have a high abrasion class, preferably IV or V, a hardness of at least 5-6 on the Mohs scale and anti-slip properties.

Such high requirements are imposed only on treads - risers may have lower technical parameters.

The surface of the tiles intended for treads must be corrugated (corrugations are convex or concave elements on the surface of the tile) or embossed (relief - bulges on the entire surface of the tile).

The staircase can also be tiled with matte tiles with an uneven, rough texture.

For the internal staircase, floor tiles, gres and clinker are used.

Mosaic ceramic tiles are used for steps and risers, as well as for the flooring of the staircase hall

Ceramic tiles of various colors were used to decorate the steps of the stairs, reminiscent of a multi-colored carpet runner.

Finishing a monolithic concrete staircase with porcelain stoneware

Porcelain stoneware stair treads are slabs specially designed for finishing concrete stair treads. Porcelain stoneware slab measures 300 - 350 mm. wide and 1200-1300 mm. in length.

Porcelain stoneware steps can be with or without anti-slip notches.

Porcelain stoneware slabs can be faced with both treads and risers.

Slabs are produced from porcelain stoneware imitating wood, imitation of marble, imitation of natural stone, as well as steps of pure colors (monocolors) and many others.

Steps are of a straight shape with a machined front edge, as well as with a curved "nose" - in this case, the choice depends on what kind of appearance you want to give the concrete staircase.

Porcelain stoneware treads are very durable, do not allow moisture to pass through, do not undergo chemical attack, do not fade from sunlight, are environmentally friendly and do not require replacement for a long time. This is one of the best options in terms of price-quality ratio for finishing concrete stairs.

Porcelain stoneware steps as a material for finishing an interfloor staircase are very diverse. Depending on your preferences, you can choose matt, lapped, embossed or polished steps for your concrete staircase.

You can finish with porcelain stoneware in the same style as the concrete staircase itself, and the entire space between the stairs.

All multi-level structures are equipped with interfloor transitions - stairs. If a country house of 2 floors is built of wood, then the staircase should also be made of lumber. For brick houses, concrete stairs are more suitable, which can be made both independently and with the help of specialists. The work is not easy, you will have to invest a lot of time and effort in the design.

Typical pros and cons

Multi-level concrete products must meet all requirements. If the manufacturing technology is violated, then there is a risk of deformation or cracking of the stairs. However, these are rare cases. Concrete stairs for the home are the most reliable and durable, so the majority of homeowners choose monolithic structures. They have the following advantages:

From concrete, spiral, straight, angular and any shape of stairs are created. Among the pluses, there are minuses, but these are most likely technological difficulties than disadvantages. ... These include the following:

Some of the owners choose U-shaped interfloor passages. They are financially more profitable and easy to manufacture. In addition to them, there are more beautiful models - these are screw structures, but their installation will require a competent calculation. It is better for builders with no experience to start making the simplest products, for example, a concrete porch.

Correct calculations

Some beginners believe that making concrete stairs is done "by eye" without correct calculations. At the exit, you will get a completely unsafe staircase. It will not last long, and the asymmetrical steps will make it difficult to move.

For the construction of interfloor products, there are special standards for the angle of inclination of the concrete march. You cannot bow out of them. Therefore, before starting the construction of a house with 2 levels, you need to draw up a project in which the parameters of the stairs will be calculated. If this is not done, then you will have to act along the way. When calculating, you should adhere to the following rules:

In some cases, homeowners have to construct three-level flights of stairs. This happens due to the fact that the location of the opening on the second floor does not allow making a classic one-flight or two-flight staircase. Therefore, you have to create a special project.

Safety formula

Specialists always use the ladder safety formula. Due to it, you can determine the correct ratio of the height of the steps and the width of the tread. The formula is designed for the average person's step: s = 2h + d. Everything in order:

• S - the step range is 60-64 cm, the length is considered normal, however, for tall and short people, such parameters can complicate movement along the march;
• H - step height;
• D is the width of the tread.

The parameters of future steps can be calculated using an online calculator or using a graphical method. All data obtained should be brought to a real flight of stairs. The lifting height is divided by the number of steps obtained. Most likely, a fractional number will come out. It must be rounded so that a person, while moving up the stairs, can finish the ascent with the foot on which he stood on the first step. But the rule is optional.

To obtain the exact number of steps, the lift height must be divided by the rounded number of steps. Now in almost every region there are manufacturers producing ready-made concrete stairs. There is a golden mean here and the usual flight consists of 9 steps. Experts advise making an odd number of steps.

Step by step manufacturing

The work involves 4 stages without finishing: preparation, installation of formwork, reinforcement and casting. The last stage is finishing. Here, the manufacture of concrete stairs with two flights and a platform will be described.

Preparatory work

Preparation for the main work is done only after all calculations. If the house is for two owners, then the neighbors should be warned about the impending construction of a concrete staircase. Phased operation:

Important! The stairs are marked so that the finishing materials that will be used in the future are in the same plane. For example, if a tile will act as a finishing of the stairs and the floor of the second floor, then a threshold should not form at the junction of the second march with the floor. Sometimes errors are made in the calculation, since this factor is not taken into account.

Formwork creation

Formwork is created from OSB slabs, bars, boards and supports. All parts are cut to the same dimensions, for example, boards are prepared at the same length of 100 cm. They will be needed to form the steps. Wooden blocks are also cut - they should be as long as the height of the step. Manufacturing process:

At the last step, polyethylene is laid on the flooring, which will prevent the concrete from flowing through the cracks. The film must fit not only on the flooring, but also on the board.

Reinforcement of the structure

For reinforcement, a wire with a diameter of 1.2 cm is needed. Due to it, it is necessary to make a mesh with cells of 20 cm. To fasten the material to each other, only a special hook and a current wire are used. Welding here will be superfluous, because polyethylene is laid on the flooring, and hot sparks will melt it, as a result of which the concrete will flow. Easy way of reinforcement:

This is how the reinforcement of a concrete staircase is done. As you can see, the flights of stairs are completely tied to the wall - this indicates the high safety of the structure. The work is painstaking and long, but you will have to work hard to build a quality staircase.

Pouring with concrete

In order for the product to turn out to be monolithic, it should be poured in one day. Otherwise, the concrete staircase will not be solid. The pouring process is the most difficult of all:

This is where the work ends. The concrete ladder will take about 4 weeks to dry. In addition, the owner of the house needs to periodically pour water over the concrete. After completely dry, the final step is finishing. Monolithic concrete stairs can be finished with wood or tiles.

One of the best solutions for interfloor communication is a concrete staircase. Ready-made concrete products have a completely categorical standardization and their use in atypical architecture is limited. In this article, we will look at the process and technology of creating a concrete staircase with our own hands.

Principles of calculating a concrete staircase

In order for the staircase to be convenient for each tenant, it must be correctly calculated. You can, of course, determine the parameters empirically by measuring the height and length of the steps of a real staircase that you use and which you find comfortable. But it's best to stick to a proven calculation methodology.

The horizontal plane of a step is usually called a tread, and the vertical plane is called a riser. The width of the tread should be sufficient so that the foot rests on it at least 80%. The safest and most comfortable steps are those with a 300 mm tread; when climbing stairs with wider steps, you are likely to lose your step, and a narrower tread will make the descent uncomfortable. The width of the staircase should be at least 80 cm for easy passage of people and at least 120 cm if you plan to carry furniture or bulky items up the stairs.

Dependence of the height and width of the step on the angle of rise of the stairs

The height of the riser is selected depending on the width of the tread. For steps with a width of 300 mm, a height of 150 mm will be optimal. If you want to make the steps 10 mm wider, the riser should be reduced by the same value and vice versa.

It is believed that the sum of the double height of the riser and the width of the tread should be equal to the average step of a person - 400-600 mm. This indicator is individual and depends on the height of the person, so if children live in the house, make the stairs safer by increasing the tread and reducing the width of each step.

Knowing the optimal riser height, divide the difference in height between the floors by this value, and you will get the number of steps in the staircase. The fractional remainder is the height of the first frieze step. By multiplying the number of steps by the tread width, you determine the length of the horizontal projection of the flight of stairs and determine whether the flight of stairs fits into the space allotted for it.

If the flight of stairs does not fit, you can make it shorter by increasing the ascent angle. The most convenient and safest is considered to be a staircase slope of 26-37 °, it is more difficult to climb up steeper stairs, and with a slope of more than 45 °, descent is possible only backwards. To determine the angle of the stairs, use the model of a right-angled triangle, in which the legs are the tread and the riser. You can calculate the angle by dividing the step height by its width and using the table of angle tangents values.

Determination of the angle of inclination of the stairs according to the height and width of the step

If you do not want to sacrifice comfort, do not change the width and height of the steps. Instead, divide the span with an inter-flight platform, make 5-6 lower steps run-in, or build a radial spiral staircase. Please note that in this case, the width of the step at the narrowest point should not be less than 100 mm.

Reinforcement rules for staircases

A concrete staircase is a self-supporting structure that needs additional support only if the flight angle exceeds 180 °. Otherwise, in the central part of the monolithic structure, the fracture load will exceed the standard values ​​and compensation will be required - fastening to the walls or the construction of support columns.

The main load in a concrete staircase falls on the reinforcement, the amount of which is record-breaking in comparison with other concrete products - from 1.7 to 3% of the cross-section along the span and up to 0.8% of the cross-section in width. Reinforcement of the ST-5 brand is laid along the span with a step between the rods:

• 120 mm with a rod diameter of 10 mm;
• 160 mm with a diameter of 12-14 mm;
• 180 mm with a diameter of 16 mm;
• 200 mm with a diameter over 18 mm.

Reinforcement in the lateral projection is performed with a step of 250-300 mm. Reinforcement of the platforms is performed with a step of 200 mm in each direction.

The fastening of reinforcement to the embedded elements in the walls is carried out not so much in order to provide additional support, but for the sake of the solidity of the structure and in order to avoid the appearance of cracks during the settlement of the building. However, the monolith of the staircase must be rigidly fastened to the ceilings by releasing the embedded reinforcement by 60-80 mm.

The reinforcement forms a mesh, folded without a gap and placed on plastic clips that regulate the protective layer of concrete 3-5 cm from each edge. Double-row reinforcement is sufficient for stairs with 18 steps; in longer spans, an additional third row of longitudinal reinforcement is required, located 5-6 cm higher than the main mesh.

At the crosshairs, the mesh is tied with wire or nylon clamps. Each rebar must be solid along its entire length or width, but this is not always possible on long spans or radius staircases. Therefore, it is allowed to splicate embedded elements:

• knitted with an overlap of 24 nominal diameters;
• welding with a one-sided seam with an overlap of 12 diameters;
• welding with a double-sided seam with an overlap of 6 diameters.

The steps do not need reinforcement, but to protect them from chips, it is reasonable to use a 4x50 mm steel mesh under a 2 cm layer of concrete.

Formwork installation

Formwork for the stairs is simpler than it might seem. First, a gutter is mounted from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB, strictly horizontal in diameter and with vertical walls fastened to each other by tie bars, one for each step. The role of the walls of the gutter can be played by adjoining walls. On the inner surface of the walls, a thickness gauge marks the height of the ramp - the load-bearing slab of the staircase, which is equal to the thickness of the reinforcement plus the upper and lower protective layer. Further, with a ruler, and for a radius staircase - with a thread of a fixed length, the vertical edges of the steps are marked on the drawn line. The length of the inclined segment is equal to the square root of the sum of the squares of the height and length of the steps (Pythagorean law).

Vertical lines are drawn along the marks made, on which the height of the steps is marked. To check, set aside a horizontal line at the new mark and measure the distance between the points of intersection with the vertical and the slope of the ramp: it should be equal to the length of one step.

According to the marks applied, the boards of the formwork of the steps are installed vertically, fixing them to the walls of the gutter, the top of each step remains open. Adjacent boards are fastened with wedge-shaped spacers, one for every 80 cm of the span width. The wide part of the wedge is attached to the end of the upper board, the narrow part is superimposed on the upper edge of the lower one. Particular attention should be paid to the walls of the gutter, they will have the main load.

The formwork is supported from below with scaffolds or telescopic props with a permissible load of up to 800 kg. The number of racks is one for every 1.2 m 2 of the ramp surface. To install the supports, transverse bars 40x40 mm are screwed to the bottom of the formwork from below, so that a semblance of an inverted ladder is formed.

Pouring stairs

The filling of the flight of stairs between the floors is performed in one stage. Manually, such an amount of concrete cannot be prepared, and you cannot vouch for the quality of the handicraft mixture. Therefore, you will have to calculate the internal volume of the formwork, equal to the volume of the ramp plus the volume of one step, multiplied by their number. It is recommended to order concrete of class B30 or higher with a margin of at least 10% of the original volume to take into account losses during transportation.

The pouring of the stairs begins with the lower steps, gradually advancing as the formwork is filled in and the surface is leveled. The concrete must be tamped, and at the end of the pouring, shrink it with vibration. Sagging of the mixture on the steps after shrinkage can be eliminated by refilling immediately or grouting with M300 cement mortar on 500 grade cement the next day.

Concrete gains sufficient strength within 14 days. During the drying period, it is imperative to moisten the surface to avoid cracking. After two weeks, the formwork is removed and proceeds to finishing work.

Finishing work: how to simplify cladding

There are many options for facing stairs, ranging from simple painting to the installation of special marble slabs. It is only important to give a few tips that will greatly simplify further refinement.

Advice 1. Prepare the formwork carefully. Up to complete filling of cracks and complete filling. Formwork is a form, and if its surface is perfectly flat, then after dismantling, all that remains is to eliminate minor defects in the concrete to obtain an absolutely smooth coating.

Tip 2. Iron the steps the day after pouring. If the formwork is installed correctly, in the future it will only be necessary to sand the edges a little.

Tip 3. Provide in advance the embedded elements for handrails and fences. This will not only simplify their installation, but also will not violate the strength of the structure.

Tip 4. Don't skimp on spacers and formwork support. Even slight curvature or punching will ruin the look.

Tip 5. Make the steps the same height, with the possible exception of the frieze.

Tip 6. Start finishing the stairs only after the complete renovation of the house.

No residential or industrial building is unthinkable without such a structural element as a staircase. A series of steps serve as a point of communication between rooms located at different levels. She experiences considerable stress every day. Therefore, increased requirements for comfort, reliability and safety are imposed on it. The article will focus on how to make a concrete staircase with your own hands.

Reinforced monolithic concrete stairs

• Ladder structures can be rectangular, rotary and spiral. But regardless of the type, the concrete architectural element has the following advantages.
• Resistant to moisture, temperature fluctuations and aggressive environments. Therefore, such structures are erected in the interior arrangement of premises, and in the open air.
• High strength is achieved by reinforcing the concrete mix. The steps can withstand very impressive loads, which makes them incredibly reliable and practically durable.

Monolithic concrete stairs photo

• Concrete stairs provide a wide range of decorative options. Here you can use porcelain stoneware and ceramic tiles, wooden planks (parquet, laminate) and other materials.
• The steps do not require special care and regular impregnation. If a defect occurs on the surface, it is enough to re-fill the area to be restored with concrete mortar.
• The construction of the structure is carried out on its own without the use of special or expensive building materials, as well as without the involvement of special equipment and specialists.
• The poured steps are ready for use in 7-10 days. That allows you to use them at all stages of construction, carry tools, materials, etc.
• Since the staircase is being erected simultaneously with the construction of the house, in addition to its direct purpose, it performs another role - a constructive one.
• Among the shortcomings, one can note its impressive weight, massiveness (takes up a lot of space) and solidity - the staircase cannot be dismantled, rearranged or modified.

Concrete grade for stair structures

• For the manufacture of concrete stairs, a ready-made mortar M200 of class B15 or M250 of class B20 is usually used. This material is based on fine crushed stone, with the addition of binders, modified additives and other aggregates.
• When choosing concrete for the construction of outdoor stairs, it is important to pay attention to the index for frost resistance (F) and water resistance (W).

The following proportions are used to mix the Grade 250 concrete mortar on our own:

• 1 part of M400 concrete;
• 2 parts washed sand;
• 4 pieces of crushed stone, fraction 10x20 mm;
• about ½ part of water;
• 0.7% by weight of the cement of the plasticizing additive S-3.

Mixing the solution in the old fashioned way, using a pallet and a shovel, is incredibly difficult, especially since the steps must be filled in one go. Therefore, it is recommended to take a compact concrete mixer from neighbors or rent it from construction crews.

First, sand and crushed stone are poured into the device, bulk materials are mixed for at least 2-3 minutes. Then a plasticizer (in dry or concentrated form) and water are added. All components are mixed for at least 5 minutes.

Important! Poor mixing of all components reduces the final strength of the concrete by 20%.

How to make a concrete staircase with your own hands

Stair design

• If the work on the construction of the stairs is carried out independently (without the involvement of specialists), then the project on paper is drawn up on its own. The plan calculates the dimensions of the room, the slope of the structure, its length and width, the presence of doorways, the method and direction of opening the doors are also taken into account.
• The construction of a concrete staircase requires special attention to the angle of inclination. The optimal value of this parameter is within the range of 26-37º. A staircase that is too steep can become life-threatening, and a flatter staircase will take up a lot of usable area, and it does not differ in particular comfort when going up / down.

• When developing a project, you must act consistently. First, the number of steps is calculated, then their length, width, angle of rotation, platform parameters, etc. Only with the right approach can we talk about safety and design convenience.

Calculation of step parameters

• In addition to the strength characteristics, such a structure must meet the operational characteristics. The selected parameters should meet as much as possible the convenience when going up or down, observing the evenness of the step.
• As for the width, it can vary from 0.9 to 1.5 meters. Undoubtedly, the wider the staircase, the more convenient it is, but the area of ​​the room does not always allow the construction of structures of preferred sizes. Therefore, when designing, they are based not only on comfort, but also on free quadrature.

There are averaged step indicators that determine the ease of use:

• height 190-220 mm;
• width 250-330 mm.

• For the correct calculation of the parameters, a simple formula is used 2a + b = 640, where: a is the step height; b - step width; 640 mm is the average length of a human stride.
• Substituting the average data, we get: 2x190 + 280 = 660. As can be seen from the example, the selected dimensions are quite consistent with the comfortable performance characteristics.
• Using the Pythagorean theorem, we calculate the length of the march. The thickness of the decorative flooring must be taken into account here. The result is divided by the height of one step. For example: 3000/190 = 15.8, which means that there are 16 steps per march 3 meters long.
• If, in the calculations, a tenth is small (for example, it turned out 14.3 or 16.4), then it is recommended to take only an integer as a basis, and distribute the remainder evenly to the height of all steps (the damage to the comfort of ascent and descent will turn out to be insignificant).

Important! When calculating, you should take into account the height of the tallest family member. So that he gets up on the second step, he does not hit his head on the ceiling. Here it is necessary to add 400 mm to the height of a person (the average height of two steps without finishing material!)

Formwork for pouring concrete stairs

• Formwork assembly is one of the key points of construction. To make the concrete surface as flat as possible, use moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 20 mm. For the side walls of the steps and the formation of risers, an edged board with a thickness of 30-35 mm is used.

• For the bottom surface, take a solid plate. Its installation at the desired angle is carried out using vertical beams or special telescopic racks, which can be easily rented from construction crews.
• Since the mass of the concrete mixture is quite large, it makes sense to use metal corners and bars to strengthen the formwork. It is recommended to attach additional reinforcing elements to the bottom of the formwork every 50-80 cm.
• Next, steps are formed by means of edged boards. During installation, the internal dimensions are taken as a basis, that is, when fixing, the external parameters of each step will be 30-35 mm (exactly the width of the lumber used) more than the design indicators.
• Wooden elements must fit snugly together, no gaps and crevices are allowed. To prevent the solution from being absorbed into the lumber, it is abundantly moistened or protected by the walls with plastic wrap, as well as any waterproofing material, before pouring.

Important! When assembling the structure, self-tapping screws are used. Their location should only be external, so that during the dismantling of the formwork there are no difficulties that can lead to partial destruction of the concrete surface.

Concrete stair reinforcement technology

• To give strength to the staircase and prevent the edges of the steps from crumbling, reinforcement is carried out. For work, you will need steel reinforcement with a diameter of 8 and 14 mm, a knitting wire, as well as a tool for bending and cutting rods, pliers.
• For longitudinal reinforcement, thicker steel rods are used, and for transverse rods of a smaller diameter. At a distance of at least 30 mm from the bottom of the formwork, 14 mm reinforcement is laid out with a step of 150-200 mm. To do this, it is enough to place broken pieces of brick or ceramic tiles under it.

• Cross rods are also laid out at a distance of 150-200 mm from each other. The fixing of the reinforcement in the form of a mesh is ensured by means of a knitting wire fastened and tightened with pliers.
• For reliability, you can lay out the second row of the finished mesh with cells of 150x150mm from 4 mm reinforcement. This layer should be positioned so that the concrete layer covers the metal by 30-40 mm. To ensure such parameters, peculiar chairs are harvested from metal rods.
• If the structure rests on three sides (top, bottom and side), then in the process of erecting the walls, reinforcement is pre-laid. The result is the most durable fixation of the ladder from the side.

How to properly pour concrete stairs

• The concrete solution is poured from the bottom step. The frame is filled in small portions. After filling, ramming is performed with an electric vibrator. This tool will help to get rid of air voids that adversely affect the strength characteristics of the finished structure.
• In addition to the vibrator, a gentle hammering can be made on all sides of the formwork. As a rule, the mixture will settle by 2-3 cm from the required level, the deficiency is compensated for by a new portion of the concrete mixture. Then the tamping process is repeated.

• If the solution no longer settles, then the surface is finally leveled with a trowel or rule. Between concreting of each step, a break of 10-15 minutes should be maintained, during which time the pressure of the solution drops slightly.
• To move upward, you can lean a standard wooden ladder on the frame or use ordinary boards. After completion of the work, the concrete is covered with plastic wrap, which prevents it from drying out prematurely.

Important! The first 2-3 days, the polyethylene is periodically removed, and the concrete surface is moistened by spraying, a direct stream of water should be avoided.

• The frame is dismantled after 3-4 weeks, it is during this period that the concrete mixture will gain at least 80-90% strength.
• The undoubted advantage of concrete surfaces is absolute maintainability. Therefore, if after drying any defects were found, they can be easily corrected with partial "patches" or re-filling. However, in order to avoid financial and time costs, it is better to do it once according to all the rules, putting in more effort and effort.

Decoration Materials

• It is not recommended to leave the concrete staircase without further finishing. After some time, the edges of the steps will begin to crumble. And the appearance of the stairs leaves much to be desired, although many modern styles welcome concrete structures in their original form.
• Depending on the style direction, the steps are faced with porcelain stoneware, ceramic mosaics, wooden planks. The side walls and the bottom of the stairs are usually plastered and then painted.

• For the safety of movement, the staircase is equipped with fences. Balusters and railings are made of wood, chrome-plated metal. Forged products, which can be called real works of art, are distinguished by high decorative qualities.