CIRCLE

CIRCLE

CIRCLE, circled, cf.

1. Device for laying stone vaults, in the form of an arc made of boards (special).

2. Rotating potter's wheel (special).

3. Old in Russia - a drinking house, a tavern (historical). "He would have to stroll around in circles, and play with the boyar children." Mei .

Ushakov's Explanatory Dictionary... D.N. Ushakov. 1935-1940.

Synonyms:

See what "KRUZHALO" is in other dictionaries:

A tavern, a tavern, a cellar, a drinking establishment, an arc, a drinking house Dictionary of Russian synonyms. circled see tavern Dictionary of synonyms of the Russian language. Practical guide. M .: Russian language. Z. E. Alexandrova ... Synonym dictionary

circled- KRUZHALO, arch. - A tavern, a drinking establishment. - Many service people first received a little bit of a deposit for food and clothes and took a walk in the sovereign's circle (1. 47). Words RY XI XVII 8. 82 83: circled (in the 8th value) "the same" (XVII century) ... Dictionary of the trilogy "Tsar's patrimony"

- (a. support master frame; n. Lehrgerust, Lehrgezimmer, Lehrring; f. cintre; and. cercha, cerchon) a template for the construction of stone or concrete (reinforced concrete) curved support in horizontal, inclined, vertical forges. ... ... Geological encyclopedia

CIRCULAR, ah, cf. 1. Supporting arc (usually from planks), along the swarm a stone vault is laid out (special). 2. In the old days: a drinking establishment, a tavern. Ozhegov's Explanatory Dictionary. S.I. Ozhegov, N.Yu. Shvedova. 1949 1992 ... Ozhegov's Explanatory Dictionary

- (Ball caliber) (old) device for calibrating projectiles. Samoilov K.I. Marine dictionary. M. L .: State Naval Publishing House of the NKVMF of the USSR, 1941 ... Marine dictionary

circled- A horizontal girder that connects the sliding formwork panels and receives the pressure of the concrete mix. [GOST R 52086 2003] Formwork topics ... Technical translator's guide

Circled- - an auxiliary device for temporary support of the formwork during the erection of stone and reinforced concrete structures of curved outline (arches, vaults, domes). [Great Soviet Encyclopedia. M .: Soviet encyclopedia. 1969 ... ... Encyclopedia of terms, definitions and explanations of building materials

Circled. Simple. Outdated. A straight line around the head (cut, etc.). F 1, 265 ... A large dictionary of Russian sayings

circled- 105 circled A horizontal girder combining sliding formwork panels and receiving the pressure of the concrete mix Source: GOST R 52086 2003: Formwork. Terms and definitions original document ... Dictionary-reference book of terms of normative and technical documentation

An auxiliary device (mainly made of wood) for the temporary support of the formwork (see. Formwork) during the erection of stone and reinforced concrete building structures with a curved outline (arches, vaults, domes) ... Great Soviet Encyclopedia

Books

• Methodical manual "From words to deeds". Part 2 "Circling". Part 3 "Healthy", Sergei Demin. The manual provides practical exercises for the development of flexibility and coordination of movements according to the systems "Kruzhalo" and "Zdrava" ...

A do-it-yourself greenhouse is not only a useful building for a summer cottage or a personal plot, but also an excellent opportunity to apply your knowledge, experience and skills in working with various materials and tools in practice. The most important part of the greenhouse is the frame, the quality of which determines the strength and durability of the building. It consists of a set of straight and rounded elements that are connected by welding, bolts or self-tapping screws. Consider the most difficult elements to manufacture - arches for a greenhouse.

First, consider the advantages of the arched design of greenhouses, where the same arcs are used as the main frame element.

1. Effective light diffusion at any time of the day and at any angle of the sun to the horizon - this is the main advantage.
2. Reduced material consumption for sheathing and frame - an arched greenhouse will cost much less than a gable one. This applies to both purchased options and various homemade products.
3. From the previous dignity of arched structures, the following follows - light weight, and therefore no need for powerful and costly.
4. Another advantage of the low weight - ease of building transfer to a new location.
5. If necessary, an arched greenhouse can be lengthened without problems by connecting the new arcs and horizontal braces to the previously installed frame.
6. Due to their shape and height, greenhouses assembled from arcs and securely anchored to a foundation or ground have high resistance to wind load.
7. Greenhouse shape allows you to clean it from snow in winter without any problems.

Important! If you do not have the opportunity or desire to regularly visit the summer cottage from December to March just to clear the greenhouse from snow, make the structure not semicircular, but pointed, as in the image below. In addition to its unusual appearance, a building of this shape does not allow large masses of snow to accumulate on the skin.

But in addition to the advantages, a competent craftsman should also know about the disadvantages of the design that he will do. Firstly, glass cannot be used as a cladding for greenhouses assembled from arcs - yes, theoretically it can be bent into semicircular sheets, but this is too difficult and expensive, but practically impossible at home. Secondly, for such a construction, it often becomes necessary to equip additional supports and jibs - a lighter and cheaper structure is also weaker. Thirdly, the production of arches for a greenhouse itself is a complex and time-consuming process.

An arched greenhouse is an indispensable assistant for any gardener, both experienced and beginner. An arched structure (both factory and homemade) is assembled from arched elements, which you can make yourself if you wish. What are they, from what can you make them yourself?

Greenhouse arc prices

greenhouse arches

Greenhouse arches - varieties and materials used

Now let's find out what kind of arches for a greenhouse are and what they are made of. From a constructive point of view, there are two main types of arches - solid and composite.

Solid greenhouse arches, as the name implies, are an inseparable semicircular structure made of one piece of material, be it wood, plastic or metal. On the one hand, this provides increased strength of this structural element, since there are no weak points in the form of various joints, fasteners and seams. But at the same time, making such an arc is much more difficult, especially if it needs to be made of wood. In addition, the complexity of transportation increases - in most cases, greenhouse arcs are 2.5-3 m wide and 2-2.5 m high, so you will have to use a truck to transport them.

Composite arches for greenhouses are the complete opposite of the previous ones. They are a set of several (from 2-3 to 15 or more) individual elements, which, when combined, give a finished arc. Much easier to manufacture, since you will need to saw or bend individual and relatively short parts. Also, for their transportation, if required, a trunk or the back seat of a passenger car is enough. But at the same time, the strength of composite arches for greenhouses in some cases may be inferior to their solid counterparts.

Both of the above types of arch structures are made from the following materials:

• metal;
• tree;
• plastic.

Let's consider them separately. Metal arcs are characterized by high strength, medium weight. They are made from many types of profiles, some of which are presented in the table below.

Table. The main materials used to make greenhouse metal arches.

Name, photo	Description
	A metal product of rectangular cross-section, which is a steel bar with rounded corners, treated from the outside with an anti-corrosion coating of zinc or powder paint.
	The metal product is L-shaped with rather thick walls. In some cases it has an anti-corrosion coating.
	A metal product commonly used for cladding facades or roofs. Galvanized to increase resistance to corrosion. In some cases, it is called a U- or W-shaped profile.
	U-shaped metal products used for the installation of gypsum cardboard structures. It is galvanized, has grooves and protrusions in its design that play the role of stiffening ribs. In turn, it is subdivided into many subspecies of the profile, differing in their function.

Important! When choosing a profile for greenhouse arches, be sure to pay attention to the thickness of the metal walls. If it is small, the resulting arches will be weak and unreliable. In addition, choose only those metal products that have corrosion protection, or purchase additional powder paint or cold zinc (in the form of an aerosol) for them.

Unlike metal, wood in the manufacture of arches for greenhouses at home is exotic - bending a straight board or a set of slats into an arch is possible, but rather difficult, this requires experience and appropriate skills. But if there are not enough of them, it is always possible to make a compound arc from many individually cut planks. You will learn how to do this later in the article.

Very often, arches for agricultural buildings, especially greenhouses or small-sized greenhouses, are made of plastic or PVC pipes or profiles - these materials are flexible, cheap and easy to process. But the reverse side of the coin is the low strength of the resulting structure - in most cases, greenhouses with plastic arches are temporary structures with plastic sheathing, disassembled in the fall and reassembled before the start of the next summer cottage season.

Important! We should also mention the presence of additional structures for fasteners. The simplest arc for a greenhouse may not have them and may be connected to other parts of the frame by welding, corners and self-tapping screws. But skillful craftsmen attach "branches" to some arches, with the help of which you can securely fasten the arc and ties, inserting one into the other and fixing them with bolts and nuts. An example of such a construction is shown in the image below.

Making arcs from a profiled pipe

The execution of arches from a greenhouse from a profiled pipe of a square or rectangular cross-section requires some skill and skill - it is necessary to observe at least approximate dimensions in the absence or imperfection of special measuring instruments. In addition, you need to be careful not to allow the formation of dents on the inner wall of the arc, violations of the axial symmetry of the profile and divergence of the weld. In this section, we will consider two methods for making metal arcs that do not require heating the workpieces - using a home-made or purchased pipe bender and manually, using a template.

The pipe bending machine is a mechanism consisting of two fixed elements and one movable one. The latter is lowered or raised using a jack or an adjusting screw. Due to this, the radius of curvature, which is attached to the profiled pipe on the machine, changes. The latter is driven by a manual drive or an electric motor - the workpiece is pulled along the rollers several times until the desired shape is achieved.

Advice! The work on a manual pipe bender can be simplified by using a toothed chain. It stretches between large sprockets on fixed rollers and small sprockets on a hand drive. As a result, it is possible, with little effort, to impart significant torque to the machine mechanism.

You can learn how to make your own pipe bender from the videos presented in the following sections of the article. Here we will consider how to use it and how to make strong arches for a greenhouse with an arched frame.

Step 1. Determine the length of the future arc and the radius of curvature. This can be done either using mathematical formulas, or by making a workpiece of the appropriate shape from the wire. By the way, in the future it will be needed as a kind of template.

Step 2. Prepare the profiled pipes - cut the workpieces you need to length, clean them from rust, if any.

Step 3. Prepare the pipe bending machine for operation, check its completeness and functionality.

Step 4. Using the machine's adjusting mechanism, select a slight bend, roll the straight profiled pipe onto the rollers and roll it once.

Step 5. Expand and insert the workpiece into the machine with the other side, roll it on the rollers again.

Step 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the curvature of the profiled pipe stops changing.

Step 7. Check the resulting product against the template. If the shape still does not match the desired one, set a larger radius of curvature on the regulating mechanism, wind the curved profiled pipe and repeat the three previous steps until the arc acquires the desired shape.

Important! Please note that the first few arcs are trial ones, with their help you will gain the necessary experience and skills in working with the machine. Since the communication of the profiled pipe of the desired shape occurs gradually, mark the intermediate curvature values ​​on the adjusting screw or jack with a pencil or chalk.

Making the arc manually by the cold method is allowed only for shaped pipes with a small wall thickness and a section of 20x20 mm or less.

Step 1. Determine the arc length and radius of curvature.

Step 2. Assemble a mold from wood, plywood or a corner profile. To do this, you will need a flat and large enough platform or workbench.

Step 3. Fix the mold and one end of the pipe, attached to it, on the platform or workbench using clamps.

Step 4. Grasp the other end of the profile pipe (for convenience, you can put another pipe of a larger diameter on it, which in this case plays the role of a lever) and slowly, carefully bend the workpiece along the pattern. Be prepared to put in a lot of effort.

Step 5. Upon completion of the bending process, compare the parameters of the resulting arc with a wire template and inspect for defects. If they are frivolous or completely absent, then the resulting part is suitable for the frame of the greenhouse.

Step 6. Repeat the previous steps to make the rest of the arcs.

Video - How to make a pipe bender at home

Video - Arc to the greenhouse in 2 minutes

Making metal arcs using cuts

This method of manufacturing metal arches for a greenhouse is mainly used for plasterboard profiles, less often for rectangular and square steel pipes. The reason lies in the fact that such a method itself is very laborious, besides, the strength of the finished arc will be lower than when using a pipe bender or hot bending. In any case, this method is also worth considering.

Step 1. Cut a straight piece of plasterboard or rectangular pipe to match the length of the arc.

Step 2. On the drawing, mark the points for making cuts. For most greenhouses, they are applied at intervals of 150-250 mm. Transfer the lines to the metal using chalk.

Step 3. Place the workpiece in the workplace, clamp it in a vice or clamps.

Step 4. Use a grinder to make cuts. Be careful - the saw blade should not touch the outer side of the future arc. If the work is carried out with a plasterboard profile, it is advisable to use metal scissors instead of a grinder.

Step 5. Remove metal residues from the cuts.

Step 6. Bend the profile to the required state. For large parts, it is advisable to use a template pre-assembled on the ground.

Step 7. If the arc is made from a square or rectangular profiled pipe, seal the cuts with welding, clean the seams and cover them with paint or zinc to prevent corrosion.

Important! By a similar principle, you can make arcs from wood - make triangular cuts in it, bend a board or timber along them and close the cuts with a glued rail on the inside of the arch.

Prices for metal profile for drywall

metal profile for drywall

PVC pipes for greenhouses

As already mentioned above, plastic arches for greenhouses are distinguished by their ease of manufacture and cheap material, but at the same time they are comparatively low in strength compared to wood or metal. To begin with, consider the simplest manufacture of a PVC pipe arch, suitable only for temporary structures covered with polyethylene.

Step 1. Cut straight pipe to the desired length.

Step 2. Make supports - stuck in and out of the ground by 25-30 cm or more pieces of metal reinforcement.

Step 3. If an arc is being made for the end wall of a film greenhouse, assemble the inner frame from boards and plywood (in the form of a trapezoid).

Step 4. Bend the pipe slowly at both ends. Given its length, you will need an assistant.

Step 5. If the arc is made of PVC pipe end, pull it on the frame assembled in step 3 and fix it with wood screws.

Step 6. Then put the ends of the PVC pipe on the pieces of reinforcement sticking out of the ground. If the structure has a foundation knocked down from a bar, fix the arc with a metal bracket and self-tapping screws.

Step 7. Repeat the previous operations with the rest of the arcs and then start covering the frame with plastic wrap.

The next method for making arches from a PVC pipe involves the use of special equipment and some consumables. As a result, you will get a sufficiently strong arc on which you can fix not only plastic wrap, but also 4 mm thick.

Step 1. Cut two PVC pipes that are half the length of the greenhouse arch.

Step 2. Prepare supports for them in the form of pieces of reinforcement driven into the ground, extending 25-30 cm above ground level.

Step 3. If you are making an end arch, prepare a T-piece with an inner diameter equal to the outer diameter of the PVC pipe. Use cross fittings for intermediate arches.

Step 4. Strip and degrease the top ends of the pipes, then chamfer them slightly. You also need to clean the fittings from dirt, moisture and grease.

Step 5. Apply special adhesive to the outside of the pipe ends and the inside of the fitting. The composition used is a powerful enough "cold welding", which will ensure a reliable connection of all PVC elements.

Step 6. Insert the pipe into the fitting, turn it 90 ° and fix it in a similar position for 30-60 seconds - during this time the glue will set and connect both PVC elements.

Step 7. Repeat the previous operation, but with the other pipe and the opposite end of the fitting.

Step 8. Begin to bend the resulting structure, while being careful. Place it slowly on the metal rods and secure it to the greenhouse foundation with perforated metal tape and screws.

Important! Instead of using glue, the joint between the pipe and the fitting can be heated up to 180-260 ° C (depending on the material used). Also, with the help of high temperatures, you can bend solid arcs from plastic pipes and profiles - the inner side of the arch is warmed up with a construction hairdryer, the material softens, and a fold is created at this point.

Making arches from wood for a greenhouse

It is possible to create such parts from wood, but at the same time it is very difficult - in order not to break the workpieces during the bending process, some experience and dexterity are required. Therefore, as an alternative, there is another way to make a wooden arch for a greenhouse - a composite element assembled from many trapezoidal planks. Let us consider both methods sequentially, starting with bending the wood along the pattern.

For a start, it's worth mentioning the source material. The wood for the arch must be of very high quality, without a lot of knots and signs of decay. In addition, it should not be too dry (this can be corrected by soaking). Having chosen the wood, you need to start assembling the template stand. It consists of a platform made of plywood and a set of bars or other protruding elements that play the role of limiters, which give the workpiece a rounded shape. Examples of such products are shown in the images below.

Arc bending stand

Now let's proceed directly to the bending of the arcs. For this, slats or boards with a thickness of 15-20 mm are used.

Support arc made of boards

First letter "k"

Second letter "p"

Third letter "y"

The last beech letter "o"

The answer to the question "Support arc made of boards", 7 letters:
circled

Alternative questions in crosswords for the word circled

A supporting arch (usually from planks), along which a stone vault is laid out

In the construction business: a device for laying stone arches in the form of an arc made of boards or metal

The tavern used to

Drink house, pub

Spinning potter's wheel

Public catering enterprise

Wooden support arc

Definition of the word circled in dictionaries

New explanatory and derivational dictionary of the Russian language, T. F. Efremova. Meaning of the word in the dictionary New explanatory and derivational dictionary of the Russian language, T.F. Efremova.
Wed A device for laying stone vaults in the form of an arc made of boards or metal (in the construction business). Wed Rotating potter's wheel. Wed outdated. Drink house, tavern.

Explanatory dictionary of the Russian language. D.N. Ushakov The meaning of the word in the dictionary Explanatory dictionary of the Russian language. D.N. Ushakov
circled, cf. Device for laying stone vaults, in the form of an arc made of boards (special). Rotating potter's wheel (special). Old in Russia - a drinking house, a tavern (historical). He would have to stroll around in circles, and play with the boyar children. May.

Examples of the use of the word circled in the literature.

The third - on the corner tower, bypassing the other two with the same cannons and cannonballs, - on the corner one, which is to the settlement, in an average battle, a copper squeak is short in a machine on wheels, in circled the core is two hryvnia, and to it the core is one hundred and fifty-two.

Fourth - on the Red Gate, from the Kremlin to the Volga, in the tower a copper pishchal in a machine on wheels, in circled the core is two hryvnia, to her one hundred and twenty-five cores.

Lipped small of circled with a cry he fell between the karbas and the lodge, and when Ryabov pulled him out of the water, his lips turned white with fear - he recognized the helmsman.

Among them, one can name such systems as the Slavic-Goritsky wrestling, booze, skopar, forest warrior, colo, funeral, fierce battle, circled, cheldon, butt and others.

V circled, - said Dokuka with dignity and, looking around, lowered his voice with concern: - And who caught it?

The fence, marking the boundaries of the personal plot, like other buildings on it, can have a rather original design. Stone fences with gates and wickets on the front side are especially complex.

It is the openings that are the main topic of our article, which will give instructions and offer a video. After reviewing them, you will learn how to make a gate out of stone and other materials stylized as it.

First of all, you need to take into account that the style of the fence, of which the gate is an integral part, should duplicate the architecture of the house. Only in this case they will look organic.

Although the stone is both natural and decorative, in appearance it goes well with almost many types of materials: wood, brick, plaster and even siding (see).

What can we say about the fact that the stone fence creates the impression of the solidity and inaccessibility of the structure. As a rule, it has both a gate and a wicket - the height of their wings usually does not exceed 180cm. The gate consists of a pair of leaves and has a total width of 3-3.5 m. The width of the gate leaf usually varies from 0.95 to 1.2 m.

Design features

If the length of the front part of the fence does not allow you to install both, you have to do only with a wicket. A legitimate question arises: "What if you need to drive vehicles into the territory of the site?"

So:

• In such cases, it is possible to envisage a dismountable span of the fence, which makes it easy to remove and just as simply and quickly to install it in place. A stone fence is, of course, not the case when something can be easily disassembled, because this structure is capital and cannot be dismantled.
• Therefore, before erecting it, you need to calculate everything in advance. One gate can be completely dispensed with when the plot is small, and the house is in close proximity to the fence. Then, in case you have to bring large things into the yard, you can provide a wide gate - you can even, as in the photo below, double-wing (see).

• It is clear that the gate leaves cannot be made of stone. There is a palm tree for wood (see) and metal, but today you can see more and more fences and gates with wickets, sheathed with a composite board (decking), as well as profiled steel sheet, the surface of which is stylized as masonry.

Stone as a structural material is used only for the construction of the foundation of the fence, support pillars, including those framing the aisles.

The most difficult part is the arched vault above the gate, but I must say that it is not an obligatory element. Much depends on the height and design of the fence: if it is not high, of a columnar type, it is quite possible to do without an arch over the gate.

Stone fence with an opening

A gate made of stone, erected by hand, allows you to get significant savings, because the labor intensity of the process dictates the cost of the services of hired specialists, and it is quite high. The price of a stone depends not only on the breed, but also on the way it is cut and processed.

There is nothing you can do about it - what you have enough funds for, that is given preference. In some regions with a predominantly rocky soil, stones for the fence are not a problem at all, they can be collected, as they say, in the garden - not to use valuable rocks for this.

Note! The construction of a fence, like any other, must begin with a drawing. In this case, it should indicate the length and thickness of the fence, the location of the anchor points and passages, the distance between the supports, as well as the width of the gate and wicket openings. This approach will help to determine with the greatest certainty how much and what material will be needed, as well as to calculate the cost of this structure.

• The technology for erecting a fence and, accordingly, a gate in it is selected depending on the shape and size of the stone, the expected aesthetics of the structure. The easiest way to work with a sawn stone is that it has flat edges and a regular geometric shape. But this option is practically not used for fences.

Why buy an expensive stone if a similar result can be obtained using a cheaper brick imitation stone? Moreover, boulders or river pebbles can often be collected for free.

For the construction of fences, the so-called "torn" (wild) stone is often used. These are various sedimentary rocks: sandstone, dolomite, marl - not processed, but having a shape predetermined by nature.

Erection of supports

Arrangement of a fence, like any construction, begins with the preparation of the territory and the implementation of markings on it. First of all, you need to outline the line of the fence, hammering in the pegs at those points where the support pillars will be located.

If the fence will be built on a strip foundation with a shallow depth, a trench is dug along the markings. Then, as expected, formwork is placed, reinforcement is laid, concrete is poured.

• If the construction of the fence is carried out with rubble stone, then it can be used not only for the construction of the ground part of the post, but also for its foundation. A torn stone is used only in the ground part of such a structure and often only for laying out the front sides. The inside of such a fence can be filled with anything: broken brick, large rubble, stone fragments, sand-cement mixture.

The strength of the columnar-type fence is given by vertical metal posts embedded in concrete. If the fence is solid, a mesh is pulled between the posts, to which stones are anchored. But even in this case, in the place where the gate is located, there should be two support pillars on which the sashes will be hung.

Foundation part

The technology for erecting columnar supports is as follows. A hole is dug in the ground, the size corresponding to the cross-section of the support - a depth of 70-80cm is quite enough.

Of these, 25cm will be spent on preparing the base: 10cm - compacted sand cushion and 15cm - crushed stone dumping. Next, a metal rack is installed in the hole, and the free space is filled with concrete.

To prevent cement milk from being absorbed into the soil, the recess is pre-lined with polyethylene. Concreting is carried out to the level of the soil surface, after which the foundation of the column must be given at least a week for a certain set of strength. The verticality of the rack is verified immediately, while the concrete has not hardened, so its position can be easily corrected.

Ground part

Further actions depend on what type of stone will be used for masonry. If this is a bottle, which, as you know, has a rounded shape, it is necessary to make such a formwork around the post, as shown above.

The stones are laid along the perimeter of the formwork, and the middle of the pillar is simply filled with concrete. This method is called “laying under the bay”.

So:

• In this case, the height of the formwork should not exceed 30cm. It is removed after a few days, when the masonry mortar has properly hardened, and repositioned higher in order to fill the next row. This method of laying stone takes a lot of time, but at the same time it is the least time consuming and does not require high qualifications of a bricklayer.

• If the stone is plank, that is, it has at least two parallel faces, the masonry will be more stable and can do without formwork. The way it is laid is called "under the shoulder blade". In this case, the stones are selected by size, tried on dry, after which they are laid on the bed from the solution. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the seams between the stones do not coincide, but are staggered.
• They must be filled with a high quality solution both from the outside and from the inside. For external filling of joints, you can prepare a separate solution by adding a color tint there. In order not to disturb the masonry, the filling of the inner cavity of the pillar is carried out after the masonry mortar has hardened.

• By the way, it is not at all necessary to use natural stone for laying pillars. On sale there are such volumetric concrete elements, stylized as masonry, which you see in the photo above. They are stacked on top of each other, replacing both the formwork and the stone, which greatly simplifies the work.

Their cavity is in the same way reinforced with a metal frame and filled with mortar. This design is closed with a beautiful head and looks neat and quite respectable when finished. But if you want an arched gate, you still have to use a natural stone.

Arched vault of the gate

An opening for a gate in a stone fence can be formed not only by two free-standing pillars. Thanks to the ordinary lintel, it may look like the letter "P", but the rectangular opening does not look as interesting as the wedge or arched one. Curved lintels are equipped with formwork, which must have an appropriate shape.

• The arch is laid out from an odd number of bonded rows of bricks or stones that have a similar shape. Why an odd number? The fact is that the central row should be located strictly at the central point of the opening, and the extreme rows (heel) should be based on columnar supports.

• The formwork of the arch lintel is made according to a given radius and is supported by supporting arcs, which are called circles. The stone should be wedge-shaped and, if necessary, it should be trimmed. It is very difficult to lay out an arch from a rubble stone, and it does not look so elegant, therefore, an arched brick lintel may well be present in a stone fence.
• By the way, a brick with a wedge-shaped section is made for this purpose. The stone can also be cut into a wedge by the manufacturer, but it is much easier for the craftsman to cut the one from which he is building the fence. The arched vault is laid out evenly on both sides, from the heel to the top. A brick or stone of a similar shape is placed on a narrow edge. Accordingly, the thickened edge will be at the top.

• The seams between the elements of the arched lintel must be filled with high quality mortar. The pattern of the dressing of the seams, as well as the correctness of their direction, must be given special attention. The control is carried out using a cord and a special template made in accordance with the radius of the arch.

Its arch is laid out as quickly as possible, the masonry mortar should not harden until the moment when the circle is weakened. The formwork is removed not earlier than in a week, provided that it is warm and dry outside. Otherwise, it will take much longer.

Support in a metal bed Opifer Nousutuki (Support for standing up "Opifer") 18122821AK

Product Description: Opifer Nousutuki for tubular metal bed. Model attaches to both sides of the bed, lift-turn function, open support bar with three fixed positions.

Product order code: 18122821AK

Model: Basic model for tubular metal bed, bed width (total) 65-115 cm. For use by people weighing no more than 120 kg.

Functions:

Support in the bed metal Opifer Nousutuki (Support for standing up "Opifer") 18122811NK

Product Description: Opifer Nousutuki for wood or metal beds, lift-swivel function, triangular support bar with three fixed positions.

Product order code: 18122811NK

Model:

Functions: Attaches to both sides of the bed, the support bar can be lifted slightly and rotated into three different positions. Helps people with mobility disabilities get out of bed and move safely next to the bed.

Support in a metal bed Opifer Nousutuki (Support for standing up "Opifer") 18122811AK

Product Description: Opifer Nousutuki for wood or metal beds. Model attaches to both sides of the bed, lift-turn function, open support bar with three fixed positions.

Product order code: 18122811AK

Model: Basic model for wooden or metal beds, the height of the side of the bed is 6-18 cm, the width of the bed (total) is 65-115 cm. For use by people weighing no more than 120 kg.

Functions: Attaches to both sides of the bed, the support bar can be lifted slightly and rotated into three different positions. Helps people with mobility disabilities get out of bed and move safely next to the bed.

Support in a metal bed Opifer Nousutuki (Support for standing up "Opifer") 18122840AKYPK

Product Description: Opifer Nousutuki for wood or metal beds. The model is mounted on one side and attached to both sides of the bed, lift-swivel function, open support bar with three fixed positions.

Product order code: 18122840AKYPK

Model: Special model for wooden or metal beds, the height of the side of the bed is 6-18 cm, the width of the bed (total) 65-115 cm. For use by people weighing no more than 120 kg.

Functions: Simplified installation method. Installed on one side of the bed and attached at both ends, the support bow can be slightly raised and rotated into three different positions. Helps people with mobility disabilities get out of bed and move safely next to the bed.