How to insulate a wooden extension to a house from the outside. Insulation of the extension from the inside. Warming the walls of the veranda

In this part of the article about the construction of an extension to the house, let's talk about internal insulation ceiling, walls and floor.

Fortunately, I have many friends, whose hands have grown out of nowhere. It is fortunate that each of them specializes in a certain type of work. Having conceived to insulate the newly built rooms from the inside, I called for help from a former classmate specializing in apartment renovation.

Ceiling and wall cladding with plasterboard

Wall cladding with plasterboard slabs allows not only to insulate the room, but also to level the walls, as well as to achieve significant sound insulation. Having once invested finances and labor in insulation, you will save on heating annually.
There is also a drawback to this construction procedure: wall cladding steals a part of the usable area from the premises.

Internal work of this kind can be done at any time of the year, especially if the room is heated. Slight temperature drops are not terrible for finished drywall sheets. It was so fortunate that during the winter we managed to completely sheathe one of the rooms.

We started by installing profiles on the ceiling. For this, narrow starting profiles of UD were screwed strictly according to the level with dowels on two opposite walls just at the junction of the walls with the ceiling. Wooden ceiling beams, to which the wide main profiles of the LED will be attached, go from window to window, therefore, the starting profiles, in order to attach to the beams, must go perpendicular to them.
This means that the starting profiles will be fixed parallel to the beams, in the position of the letter P outward. The main profiles, on the contrary, are fixed with self-tapping screws to wooden beams in the position of the letter P inward. On the ceiling, both edges of each segment of the main profile of the SD entered the groove of the profile of the starting UD and were fixed in them with short screws.

The distance between the profiles on the ceiling is 40cm, on the walls 60cm.
I think the principle is clear - it is much more difficult to keep even the fixed plates in a horizontal position on the ceiling than when they are in an upright position. Therefore, we will screw them on the ceiling more often, i.e. more reliable than on the walls.

When calculating the location of the profiles, it is necessary to take into account the size of the drywall sheets, because the joint of the sheets must fall in the middle of the profile width so that the drywall can be fixed. The sizes of 40 and 60 cm were not chosen by chance, they are due to the width of the gypsum plasterboard, which is 120 cm.

The profiles are fixed on the walls and ceiling with suspension plates (I chose the universal 60/125 because of the extra length). Each suspension was fixed with two dowels to each wooden ceiling beam, and on the walls in 40 centimeters. This figure is not strict, it is better to fix it to a block of foam concrete and brick than to cement joints between them.

Due to the curvature of the walls, the same part of the profile is adjacent to the wall, sometimes close, sometimes at a small distance. Therefore, the next operation was the vertical alignment of the profile at a one and a half meter level. Having aligned the profile, both edges of the suspension were bent along its perimeter. The suspension was attached to the SD with small self-tapping screws, popularly called "fleas".

Part of the suspension plate on both sides of the profile remains free. It can be cut, but it is easier to bend back towards the wall. In the case of insulation with glass wool, they will serve as additional holders.

The profiles are made of soft metal, therefore, at the edges of one part of the profile, we slightly wrinkle it with our hand and push it a couple of centimeters into the other part, securing it with the same "fleas". In principle, there is no waste.

If the ceiling profiles are aligned with the starting UD profile, then the two extreme ones are first mounted along the walls, the rest are aligned along them.

Convenience in delivery, relative cheapness, ease of installation - these are positive characteristics given building material... Another good thing about drywall is the ability to mark with a pencil on its surface the levels, the projection of the profiles, and the places of screwing with self-tapping screws for metal.

They worked mainly with a screwdriver. Cut drywall with a special knife for drywall and foam. It looks the same as a stationery for cutting paper, only bigger size, thickness and length of the blade.

The sheet size is 1.2 m by 2.5 m, and the height is 2.35 m, the width and length of the smaller room are 3 and 4.2 m. Therefore, a lot of scraps are obtained, which have to be adjusted above / below the windows and pipes. It is also good to work with solid sheets because only vertical profiles are needed for them (on the walls). When you "sculpt" the trim, you have to additionally install horizontal profiles to securely fix each piece of drywall around the entire perimeter. But in the end, drywall slabs create flat surface... It will become ideal after filling, then the joints of the plates and the caps of the screws will not be visible.

On the inner interior wall, I considered the insulation to be superfluous, but because of its curvature I decided to level the surface with drywall on one side.

Isover bought by me is wound in rolls of two layers. Unwinding the roll, you get a sheet of 5 cm thick, which easily peels into two sheets, each 2.5 cm thick. It is worth noting that this nuance was very prudently conceived by the manufacturer. Buying one roll, you will not rack your brains over the problem of more / less insulation. For example, I laid sheets 5 cm thick on the ceiling, since only the roof protects the building from above, and 2.5 cm on the walls, since they are already insulated from the outside with expanded polystyrene and half the thickness of Izover will be quite enough.

I have used this material before, insulating the roof of the shed with it. It is a lightweight mineral wool that can be easily cut with the same drywall knife.

Since the roof is single-pitched, we began to attach the drywall in small pieces from the side of the ceiling above which the lower edge of the roof is located. The clearance there is minimal, therefore, having secured the first row of narrow strips of drywall, we immediately slipped the same narrow piece of Izover between it and the roof. Then, solid sheets of drywall were fixed on the ceiling, since the distance to the roof became decent, and it was realistic to lay large pieces of Izover across the entire width of the room.

The same song with wall insulation, but the inconvenience here is of a different nature: the insulation must be held upright until we fix the drywall sheet. As it turned out, this issue is solved by primitive engagement of the Isover edges with the profiles. We cut Isover with a width equal to the distance between the profiles fixed to the walls.

The result of work on internal insulation

Internal insulation made itself felt literally the next day after we finished the work. At night, I left the radiator on in the room in the middle position. In the morning, the thermometer showed + 24 ° C, while the temperature outside was -5 ° C.
Hopefully, the "thermos" effect will keep you cool indoors even in the summer heat.

In order to insulate an extension to a house, you need a good thermal insulation material. Optimal solution for internal and external insulation - mineral wool boards. They are excellent for insulating walls and floors made of boards, have good thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, durable and are inexpensive. For internal works you need a heater with a thickness of 50-70 mm.

List of required materials:

Waterproofing film to protect the insulation from moisture.
Fasteners and metal profiles for the construction of the frame and plasterboard cladding.
Wooden slats with a cross section of 5 x 2 cm.
Plasterboard for final wall cladding with a thickness of 9.5 to 12 mm.
Putty for processing joints between gypsum plasterboards.

Insulation stages:

Creation of lathing for fastening thermal insulation. On the surfaces that we insulate, we fill the prepared slats or boards with a distance slightly less than the width of the insulating panels.
Insulation installation. Place between the bars mineral wool... So the walls.
Waterproofing. We close the entire insulated surface with a vapor barrier membrane, overlapping the edges. We fix the film with staples on the lathing bars.
Frame for drywall sheets... We fasten vertical and horizontal metal profiles, creating a frame for the final sheathing.
GKL sheathing. We mount drywall on walls and ceilings.

Note. In principle, instead of drywall, another material can be used for cladding. It can be wooden lining, plywood, OSB or GVL. Choose what suits you best in terms of external and internal characteristics.
Joint processing. Using a putty, we cover the joints between the plates, we clean them.
Cosmetic finishing. The finished surface can be painted, pasted over with wallpaper, tiled or any other finishing materials.

Features of wall insulation from some materials

Walls made of foam concrete blocks are warm due to the huge amount of air bubbles contained in foam concrete, but additional insulation work cannot be done, otherwise heating costs will be too high. Insulation on the outside is much more expensive, since cladding is needed. Correct insulation walls from the inside assumes good vapor barrier and ventilation of the insulation layer on both sides.

It is recommended to avoid highly absorbent, fibrous, moisture-permeable insulation materials... These measures are necessary to reduce humidity in the extension and prevent freezing of the walls. When installing insulation, it should be borne in mind that cold penetrates the room through the joints.

Mineral wool is not suitable for foam concrete blocks; expanded polystyrene sheets require additional joining. The best insulation such walls - spraying polyurethane foam... It prevents condensation from forming. For education required thickness for the insulation layer, a wooden lathing should be used. Metallic profile creates bridges of cold. A waterproofing layer is fixed on top of the foam with slats, and then drywall is attached. The dew point is located at the point of contact between the polyurethane foam and the extension of the foam blocks or inside the polyurethane.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

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Similarly insulate brick extension, but the layer of insulation for brick walls is larger.

Disadvantages of polyurethane spraying - high price and the need to attract special equipment and trained professionals.

Insulation of the walls of the frame extension from the outside

We do the external insulation of the extension to the house from the frame according to the same principle as the internal one. First, a vertical frame made of wooden beams... The distance between the boards should be about 50 cm, slightly less than the width of the insulation. Mineral wool blocks are tightly inserted between the beams, which are covered with a layer of waterproofing on top. The film is reinforced with staples along the frame perimeter. At the final finishing stage, the surface is covered with siding.

Outside or inside, which is more efficient

The advantages of internal insulation

in one step they insulate the ceiling, floor, walls;
work can be performed in any weather conditions;
simplicity - insulated surfaces are available along the entire height.

Cons of internal insulation

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.

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The freezing point during internal insulation shifts into the wall, which contributes to its faster destruction. In addition, if the extension room already has a fine finish, decorative coating will have to be dismantled.

The advantages of outdoor insulation

displacement of the freezing point into the insulation, due to which the rate of destruction of the walls decreases;
the inner living area of the extension is preserved;
no debris from construction works indoors;
the ability to use the extension during work, the way of life is preserved;
additional protection wooden walls from getting wet.

Minus external insulation

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.

Ask an expert

You will not be able to observe the condition of the walls, since they will be hidden behind the decorative cladding.

Insulation of a concrete floor

List of materials that you need:

insulation - mineral wool slabs;
vapor barrier;
Scotch;
damper tape;
reinforcing mesh;
screed solution.

Insulation stages

On concrete base a layer of vapor barrier film is applied. Insulation joints for the overall tightness of the layer must be carefully glued with tape.
Insulation plates are laid on top of the waterproofing material. It is important that the blocks fit snugly together, there are no gaps and crevices left.
The entire room is glued around the perimeter damper tape... This is necessary to compensate in the event of expansion of the screed.
On top of the mineral wool insulation, another layer of vapor barrier is applied and then a reinforcing mesh.
The screed is poured. Its thickness must be at least 3 cm.
After the surface has completely dried, any topcoat is applied.

Floor insulation on beams

List of materials - what you need:

wooden boards, logs;
insulation;
vapor barrier coating;
clay solution;
plywood.

Stages of work

Fasten smaller transverse joists to the floor beams. Lay the boards on the joists with a rough, continuous flooring to prevent heat blowing out. Spread the coating thick clay mortar, wait until dry and apply a layer of vapor barrier on top. Place insulation plates between the logs, cover it with another layer of vapor barrier. Cover the surface with boards or plywood from above. Lay the decorative finish to your liking on the resulting wood floor.

Roof insulation

In order to properly insulate the roof of the extension to the house, the following principle should be observed: all layers of the insulating cake must provide moisture insulation with outside and vapor permeability from the inside. For thermal insulation of roofs, foam, foam, polyurethane foam is used, but mineral wool and other fibrous insulation in combination with membrane films for the removal of water vapor.

Types of insulation - features, characteristics

Mineral wool. It has low thermal conductivity, fireproof, strong, flexible, temperature and chemical resistance. In addition, mineral wool insulation provides good sound insulation. Cons - a frame is required for installation, after a while of operation, it becomes denser, loses its heat-insulating properties.
Polyurethane foam is produced in three types: flexible, dense, sprayed. PPU is easy to install, lightweight, resistant to biological and chemical environments. Minuses - expensive price, ages quickly from ultraviolet radiation, deforms from mechanical stress, has a low rate of vapor permeability, due to which it accumulates moisture, which has a detrimental effect on the walls of the house.
Penofol is environmentally friendly, flexible, easy to install. The material has a low vapor permeability and high resistance to combustion. Cons - thin, overly soft. Expanded polystyrene has a low weight, sufficient rigidity, easy to assemble and cut. It is very durable, wear-resistant material... Cons - does not tolerate high temperatures from 100 degrees, has low sound insulation qualities.
Basalt wool is a fibrous material, in terms of its properties and performance characteristics, it is identical to mineral wool. Cons - during operation it becomes denser, which increases thermal conductivity.
Polyfoam is light and solid, does not lose its performance properties even after prolonged use, can be mounted both frameless and frameless. Insulation with low vapor permeability and hygroscopicity. Cons - flammable, like rodents.

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It is always better to start warming an extension with your own hands from the walls. How to insulate the extension, whether it is external or internal insulation, depends on the size, characteristics of the room and the personal tastes and preferences of the homeowners. The process of warming itself does not take much time, and the cost of materials for such work will not hit the budget.

Finishing the terrace in a private house (photo)

The veranda is a small room attached to the house. It can be open or glazed (closed). It is used both for agricultural purposes and for recreation. How to insulate a veranda for winter residence from the inside with your own hands and what materials are best to choose for these purposes? You will learn the answers to these questions later.

What to look for when insulating a veranda from the inside?

Let's decide how to properly insulate it will allow us to make a full-fledged living space out of it for the winter. You can use it absolutely at any time of the year. Before starting work, it is necessary to think over absolutely all the nuances: the option of insulation, material for thermal insulation, places for installing insulation. In this case, it is possible to lay insulation from the inside and outside.

Warming of a veranda in a wooden house is possible subject to the following conditions:

Installation is only possible with good ventilation.
In cool weather, the heating in the veranda should always be on.
Additional wall insulation cannot exceed a thickness of 55 mm.

Contemporary in the interior

Overview of materials used for internal insulation

Now on the construction market there are many variety of materials for thermal insulation of premises. They differ performance characteristics and cost. So, let's figure out how to insulate the veranda from the inside?

Polyfoam is the most popular type of insulation in many areas of construction. It features light weight, good rigidity, stable performance even with long-term use, ease of installation and the ability to install, both with a frame, and without it. The disadvantages of foam include its high fire hazard and attractiveness to rodents. This is a significant disadvantage for warming a veranda in a private house.
When using foam, there is no need to build another waterproofing layer.

The scheme of insulating the walls of the veranda with foam
Penofol is recommended by many experts. This is a modern and high-quality thermal insulation material, it can be used in conjunction with other types of insulation or without them. Penofol is ideal for insulating all buildings in country house... It has a low level of vapor permeability. The material is environmentally friendly. It is possible to mount it yourself without any problems.
Floor insulation with penofol
Another popular insulation is mineral wool. It can also be used to insulate any buildings in the private sector. It is possible to use mineral wool for premises intended for winter use. To mount a mineral wool thermal insulation layer, you will need to equip the frame. Such material will lose its density four to five years after installation, and this will inevitably lead to a loss of thermal insulation properties.
Basalt wool is analogous to mineral wool. It also gradually loses its thermal insulation properties. It differs from mineral wool in greater safety from an environmental point of view.
Expanded polystyrene combines all the advantages of foam insulation at once. It has good durability and is easy to work with. Even a beginner in this business can equip a thermal insulation layer with expanded polystyrene. However, this material has a high sound transmission.

Polystyrene foam belongs to the category of non-combustible materials.
Glass wool surpasses all of the above materials in strength and resilience. It can be purchased as a roll. It is quite simple to work with it, but at the same time it is imperative to use means to protect hands, eyes and face, as well as respiratory organs. Therefore, along with glass wool, you will need to purchase protective goggles and a respirator. Glass wool has little strength, so it can sag heavily over time. Such material is absolutely fireproof.

We insulate a closed veranda with our own hands

In this block, we will discuss how to properly insulate the veranda from the inside with our own hands. Consider the features of wall insulation, ceiling, roof, floor, doors and windows. Before starting work, you will need to purchase all materials and tools, seal windows and doors.

Preparatory work before insulation

There are many ways to insulate a veranda with your own hands. We will tell you about the most popular methods among people. The list obligatory instruments includes: stapler, construction knife, paint roller, hacksaw, paint brushes, screwdriver. In addition to the chosen thermal insulation material you will also need to buy: door seal, assembly foam, vapor barrier film, self-tapping screws, gypsum, wooden beams.

When preparatory work finished, it's time to turn the cold veranda into a warm living room.

Wall insulation on the veranda

It is worth starting the insulation of the walls on the veranda with the installation of the frame (metal or wooden). The wooden frame is made of strips and bars, and metal carcass made of galvanized profile. The latter is most suitable for insulating drywall structures. The frame installation technology is the same when using the materials listed above and looks like this (example of installing a wooden frame).

To mount the frame, you need to install the upper and lower wooden blocks filling in the distance between them with intermediate bars. They are mounted only horizontally.
Before mounting on the wall, the timber must be treated with an antiseptic to protect it from rot and mold. Use mineral wool.
Fastening the frame to the walls of the veranda can be carried out using self-tapping screws, a puncher and a screwdriver. In this case, the method of fastening the timber directly depends on the material of the walls.
Control the horizontal installation of the bar with building level... The width of the frame cells will always correspond to the dimensions of the insulation boards. In case of dense packing, you can reduce the mesh spacing by 3 mm. During the installation of the frame, there should be no cracks and gaps. Stack insulation for the veranda entirely, removing all unnecessary only after installation. When the thermal insulation layer is installed in the crate, it will be necessary to overlap the vapor barrier film to the frame beams.
At the joints of the film, you need to stick metallized tape. The procedure will protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture.
To improve the quality of insulation, you can install a foam foam gasket between the wall and the heat-insulating layer.
The final stage will be the installation of the frame sheathing, it will protect the inner layer and perform an aesthetic function. For these purposes, it is possible to use wooden lining, MDF panels or PVC panels.

Insulation of the ceiling and roof

Internal insulation of the veranda involves the obligatory laying of a heat-insulating layer on the ceiling. The principle of carrying out the work practically does not differ from the methodology of wall insulation. The main difficulty is that all assembly work you need to carry out the canopy. It is almost impossible to do all this alone.

First, remove the ceiling covering and apply a waterproofing film to the rough surface of the ceiling. Next, you need to build a frame from a bar according to the same principle as for walls. An insulating layer can be made in the gaps between the beams. Close up on top vapor barrier film. Finishing can be carried out using drywall or lining.

Most of the heat escapes through the roof. To reduce heat loss, high-quality insulation is required. This can be done from the outside only at the stage of construction work. Roof work from the inside is only possible through the ceiling.

Warming the floor on the veranda

How and with what to insulate the floor on the veranda? One of the most popular plank floor installation schemes is as follows.

Cover the floor with expanded clay or fine gravel.
Pour a small layer of sand on top and tamp it.
Next do reinforcing mesh with a cross-section according to your project.
From above is poured concrete layer thickness according to the project.
After the floor has dried, lay a waterproofing layer, for example roofing felt.
On top of the roofing material you need to lay wooden logs soaked with antiseptics.
A heat-insulating layer must be drawn between the lags.
After warming the floor on the veranda in a wooden house, you should proceed to laying the finishing coating.

Insulation of windows and doors

The best option is to install PVC insulating glass... If it is not possible to do this, then you can start insulating the existing wooden frames.

Preparatory work should be carried out in next order:

You also need to insulate door frame so that cold air does not pass through the joints to the veranda. Do this with batting: remove from the hinges and fill slightly protruding rollers from above and below, and then beat tightly, securing with a stapler or small nails.

Heating options for a closed veranda in winter

Having answered the question of how to make a warm veranda with your own hands, let's consider the most popular and available options heating a covered veranda in winter.

Warming a summer veranda - does it make sense?

To make of summer veranda a full-fledged room suitable for living in winter, you will need to thoroughly insulate the veranda with your own hands from the inside and outside. The only “viable” option is to make a frame or. But then you will have to spend a certain amount of money: first, for the installation of double-glazed windows, and then for insulation with the help of heat-insulating materials.

When insulating a summer veranda, it should be borne in mind that the installation of a heat-insulating layer leads to a shift in the dew point. This is the reason for the formation of fungus, mold. Therefore, it will be necessary to lay a waterproofing and vapor barrier layer.

Gone are the days when electricity and gas were very cheap. Heating a house without thinking about costs is already an unaffordable luxury in our time. And given cold climate and long harsh winters, you have to think about how to keep the precious warmth inside with maximum effect.

The fact that a huge number of houses are built from wood is no secret to anyone, because the material is available and relatively inexpensive. But many of its owners do not think about the fact that log and block houses can and should be additionally insulated. How and what to insulate wooden house, and why it is needed - the topic of our article.

Why insulate the house

Wood retains heat very well, everyone knows that. But is it good enough to feel comfortable inside your home? Yes, it is one of the most demanded materials, and many people opt for it.

Environmental friendliness, long service life, affordable price and ease of handling are some of the strengths of wood.

Note!
But precipitation, wind and temperature changes do not affect it in the best way.
Antiseptic treatment, of course, will partially protect, but will not create complete confidence that the material will last a long time.
Mold, mildew, rotting will destroy the house sooner than we would like.
And as a result - a quick repair or a complete alteration of the home.

If you do not additionally insulate the walls wooden house, it won't be warm enough inside... We'll have to install additional heaters, spend extra money and energy on heating.
It will blow in the crack, and all efforts to keep warm will be in vain. Everyone knows the severity of our winters; in severe frost, even such a solid material as wood will not cope with the task to the fullest.
Having spent one time on materials and work for insulation, you will feel significant savings in money on heating costs. The costs will pay off quickly, and the house will stand without repairs much longer.
In many developed countries, even with milder climates, great attention is paid to energy conservation. And it is private homeowners who make a big contribution to this.
Often, residents complain about the increased noise level that literally penetrates into all the cracks, and does not give rest... After you finish the walls with insulation, the background noise will decrease significantly, and this will be very noticeable.
After all, finishing the house will create a barrier not only for cold, water and wind, but also serve as soundproofing protection. It will be not only warm inside, but also quiet.

Thermal insulation methods

On this moment insulation works can be divided into two categories - internal and external. During construction, the homeowner usually insulates the floors, roofing and walls from the inside of the room. After that, there are already final finishing works.

But about exterior decoration think much less often. And not everyone knows how to properly insulate a wooden house, and they rarely pay attention to this.

Exterior decoration can be done both at the construction stage and much later, even when the house is completely ready, and even inhabited by the owners. This is another advantage, because you do not have to endure the inconvenience associated with renovation works inside.

And, even if you think that you have correctly and thoroughly insulated the walls in the rooms, still pay attention to the exterior decoration. By doing this, you will prolong the life of the house, and for yourself you will gain comfort and tranquility.

At the moment, workable materials can be divided into three main categories.

Organic heat insulators

These include various boards made entirely from wood, plant fibers or with added wood waste. Animal wool can also be included in the same category.

The durability and efficiency of such heaters is not the highest, since they are susceptible to moisture. Therefore, installation, as the instructions say, requires special attention and subtleties.

Mixed heaters

Modern materials, very effective and in demand today. Glass wool, aerated concrete and foam glass were gradually replaced by more modern material- mineral wool.

Fibers produced from basalt rocks are pressed into soft resilient mats. They are excellently transported, assembled and have a number of remarkable characteristics. That is why mineral wool has become a leader in the market of building materials used for insulation works.

Synthetic materials

These include polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, materials. In fact, foam is a closed cellular structure of air-filled bubbles. Since there are no gaps between them, there is no way for moisture to invade the space.

Note!
This means that even if you do not know how to insulate an old wooden house, the material itself will tell you that you need to choose it.
Rotten logs can be sheathed with Styrofoam long before needing replacement. This will secure the walls for at least ten years.
Fairly damp wood will slow down its destruction. As a consequence, repairs can be postponed.

There is another interesting one, modern way insulation. This is the treatment of walls, both outside and inside with polyurethane foam. This method is the application of foam to walls or floors, when the layer, frozen for several hours, forms a monolithic protection that only needs a final, decorative finish.

Those who like to do everything with their own hands will have to invite a worker equipped with a special apparatus that applies this foam. But you will save on the installation of the frame, which is optional in this case.

Adhesion to any surface is guaranteed, so you can safely apply foam to walls, both made of wood, as well as brick and concrete. Inside and outside surfaces can be insulated in a matter of hours with this innovative material.

Thermal insulation works

The process of insulating walls inside and outside is essentially the same.

We insulate the walls

After the entire insulator is laid, it should be wrapped waterproofing film ... It is necessary to leave a small gap between the insulation and moisture insulation.
This is necessary so that the insulating layer does not get wet and does not rot from condensation that collects inside.

Finish the walls decorative material ... It can be anything - from lining to special tiles. If necessary, the frame is built up, and then the finishing is attached to it.

Insulation of the floor, ceilings and attic

Pay particular attention to the thermal insulation of floors, ceilings or attic floor... The windows around the perimeter are processed and, if necessary, sheathed with siding. It is advisable to insulate the floor at the construction stage, before it is laid outer cover... Otherwise, you will have to remove the boards or laminate flooring to insulate.

Before insulating wooden extension or a terrace, it is advisable to do all the basic work, decorating the walls and the attic.

As the heated air rises, most of the heat is lost through the ceilings. By insulating the floors, you can save up to 20% on heating costs for your home. Moreover, a well-designed attic will last much longer, and the noise from the rain falling on the roof will not bother you.

You can use both mineral wool and foam or extruded polystyrene foam.

The installation procedure should be as follows.

If the overlaps have wooden beams, then walk-through plank bridges are made, then there are wooden bars, a vapor barrier layer, an insulation layer, floor beams and roll-over shields.
For a house with an attic, the order of layers is as follows: interior decoration, insulation, rafters, wooden lathing, roof covering.

If you have a balcony or loggia, it is also necessary to protect the walls. Since the outbuildings, as a rule, have thin walls, the insulation of the loggia will keep in the house comfortable atmosphere and your additional heating costs.

Output

Not only for the sake of monetary savings, but also to maintain coziness and comfort in the house, it is necessary to insulate it as much as possible. Even such a solid material as wood will not cope with the cold without additional protection. Having arranged your home, you will forget about repairs for decades, and inside it will always be dry and warm.

In the video presented in this article, you will find Additional information on this topic.

The lean-to roof of the extension to the house has simple design, therefore, it can be built quite quickly with your own hands without any particular problems and significant costs. We will tell you in more detail how to make a roof, what materials and tools may be required for this, and what the sequence of work should be.

Choosing the angle of inclination of the roof

Before you get started, there are a few preliminary steps you should take. First, the roof of the extension needs to be designed. For this, a drawing is made, in which it is imperative to determine the angle of inclination of the roof surface.

The angle of inclination is a very important value that affects the durability and efficiency of the roof. Correctly performed calculations will help to efficiently and quickly cope with the work. The higher the angle, the more materials will have to spend on building the roof of the extension.

This indicator is selected taking into account the prevailing weather conditions in the area where the house is located. The more precipitation falls in this region, the greater the angle should be. This prevents water and snow from accumulating and destroying the roof surface. In the area where they blow strong winds, it is better to choose a small angle value.

The angle of inclination is also selected depending on the material from which the roof is made:

tile or slate - at least 22 degrees;
roofing felt - at least 5 degrees with a two-layer coating, and 15 degrees - with a three-layer coating;
corrugated board - at least 12 degrees;
metal tile - 14 degrees;
ondulin - at least 6 degrees;
soft tiles - at least 11 degrees.

As practice shows, the roof of an extension to the main structure can have a maximum angle of inclination equal to 45 degrees. But when choosing an indicator in the interval between the minimum and maximum, it is important to take into account not only the aesthetics of the roof, but also remember the loads that will occur during precipitation or gusts of wind.

An incorrectly chosen angle of inclination will lead to unforeseen expenses for repairs in the event of an extension falling.

We select materials

Traditionally pitched roof is built from wooden beams on which the roofing material is laid. The tree is selected from hard species, well dried and treated with protective substances from insects and weathering. In addition, all wooden parts, of which the lean-to roof of the extension will be built, must be impregnated with fire-fighting means. This will significantly increase the service life of the rafters and beams of the structure.

In order to erect the roof of the extension, the following materials will be required:

timber for beams, rafters and supports;
board for lathing and sheathing of the end and sidewalls;
insulation and waterproofing;
roofing materials.

The latter should be discussed separately. Usually the roof of an extension to residential building made of the same material as the main roof. But if this is not possible, the roofing material is selected based on the financial capabilities of the owner of the house.

The beam for the rafters is selected with dimensions from 120x120 millimeters to 150x150 millimeters. They depend on the weight of the material that has been selected for the roof. The heavier it is, the thicker the timber should be. You also need to take a "margin" for the load in the form of snow, rain or wind.

To do the work with your own hands, you will need tools:

electric or hand saw;
electric drill;
screwdriver;
hammer;
axe;
furniture stapler;
screws or nails;
level;
roulette.

Nails and self-tapping screws are stocked at the rate of 1 square meter the surface will need 8-10 pieces. And when buying insulating material and insulation for the roof, you need to remember that you need to add another 10-15% to the required size, which will go for overlaps, trimming or joining materials.

The number of rafters is taken on the basis that they are installed at a distance of no more than 1 meter from each other.

We carry out construction work

In the case when a house with an extension under one roof is not provided, it is necessary that the roof of the house protrudes above the extension by at least 5 centimeters. You need to carefully consider how to tie the structure to the wall, otherwise it will get inside rainwater or snow.

The rafters will rest on outer wall, therefore, with the help of a level, a supporting bar, also known as a Mauerlat, is horizontally attached to it. This is the thickest timber, and the higher the roof angle is made or the heavier the selected roofing material, the more massive it should be.

The Mauerlat is attached to the wall as securely as possible, because the ends of the rafters will be fixed on it in the place where the extension and the walls of the main building will join. How to connect them together? It is better to insert the rafters into the grooves previously cut in the Mauerlat. The recommended distance between them should be about 0.6-0.8 meters, but no more than one meter.

When laying the rafters, make sure that they all have the same angle of inclination. Otherwise, a skew may occur, and water, accumulating, will destroy the roof of the extension.

After the rafters are fixed, the second stage of construction work begins - waterproofing. If the rafters are long, additional supports are added between them. Roofing material is laid out on top of them across the beams, thick plastic film or other waterproofing material... Experts recommend making an overlap joint and gluing each joint with adhesive tape. And the roofing material itself is attached to the rafters with a stapler.

To prevent water from getting into the gap between the roof of the extension and the wall of the house, the joint is additionally insulated. How to connect the roof of the extension to the wall? To do this, the edge of the uppermost strip of roofing material is brought out above the surface of the roof of the extension and heated blowtorch, after which they are glued to the wall.

A crate is made on top of the waterproofing layer. For this, a 5x5 cm bar is used, which is attached across the rafters. For a solid roof, the distance between the beams is taken such that one sheet lies on at least two of them. For soft roof the crate is made solid, from boards or OSB.

The final stage is styling roofing material... It is laid, starting from the bottom row towards the top, fixing according to the technology inherent in each of the varieties. In this case, it is important to ensure that the connection does not have gaps.

It remains to sew up the end parts of the sidewall with boards so that water and snow do not get under the roof.

Warm or cold?

This will reduce heat loss in the home if the extension is not heated. This will be necessary if a separate heating source is made in it.

For insulation, before laying the waterproofing on the roof, a rough ceiling is made in the extension. Insulation is not laid on it, it is covered with a waterproofing layer on top. And only after that all the works described above are carried out.

From below, the ceiling of the extension can be sewn up with plywood or drywall.

In addition, the end part of the roof should also be insulated so that the side wind does not blow out the heat. For this, you can use any material, based on financial capabilities.

Some craftsmen, when making the roof of the extension, sheathe the end parts on top of the boards with various finishing materials, for example, plastic. Thanks to this, such a roof takes on a more elegant and finished look.