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Soft stele - Sweep sweet, or insulation of a brick wall with mineral wool. Laminated masonry with insulation: the optimal solution for modern low-rise construction types of brickwork with insulation

We continue our traditional series of articles from Yuri to educated (professional repairman). Yuri writes:

Recently, heating prices grow tremendously, so many people pay great attention to the outer insulation of the walls. Therefore, I decided to pay attention to this topic. This article will talk about the insulation of the outer walls of a brick house with facing bricks. Next, we will talk about the tricks of the masonry of the brick itself and the need of a bulk insulation. Also, in the article we give examples of laying the arches.


The house covered with ceramic brick has a very pleasant and tidy look. But only, with the condition, if the brick is laid correctly, that is, the seams should be smooth and clean, and the brick itself is not wiping with a solution and not to have cracks.


Stage 1. Solution for masonry facing brick

To work, we will need the following tools:

  • Construction trowel;
  • Building level;
  • Thread or fishing line
  • A twist of 8-12 mm (square-section fittings);
  • Bulgarian with a circle on concrete;
  • Cement, sand;
  • Polyfoam in bulk form.

To begin with, we prepare a solution. All according to the standard scheme one part of the cement of the brand 400 and three parts of the sand, preferably not river, as the solution on the river sand is very quick to sit down. But if you have no other sand, add a plasticizer into solution, you can buy it in any construction store. The density of the solution should be such that it can be easily recruited and applied to the brick. Increasingly and more often into the solution on which the laying of bricks will be carried out in different types of pigments (special dyes). Therefore, a small advice: before buying a brick, think about the combination of brick color with the color of the seam itself. In our case, the client wanted the classic color of the seam, that is, gray.

Stage 2. Ceramic laying (facing) brick

On the Internet information about how a lot of brick is mounted, so I think about the basic principles should not be written. But about the features of masonry ceramic brick are not so much, because High-quality house insulation brick requires special attention.

Start work will be from lad out the corners. Masonry from facing bricks need only to be placed on waterproofing. To do this, use runneroid or thick polyethylene film. In our case, the waterproofing was laid in the foundation itself, so we began to lay down the laying not mediocre on the foundation. Having retreated 4-5 centimeters from the main wall and we will produce masonry. These 4-5 cm we retreat for the air layer, later I will explain why. Putting ceramics need exactly as an ordinary brick, but only under a metal twist with a cross section of 8 or 10 per 10, 12 to 12 millimeters.

And so, as is done: a metal twist to fall directly to the masonry itself on the front edge of the brick, and the solution is applied near it. In such a way that the applied solution is bezed near the twist itself was not higher than the twist itself. And on the back side, the solution was above ten millimeters. Such an effect is easy to achieve, if a mortar to cut a solution to a crunch at the same time to keep the truth at the corner.

In the same way, the vertical seam is applied, only the twist is set vertically to the end side of the brick (aggouch). The pntach himself will not stand therefore will have to hold it while applying the solution.


Note: After about 2-3 hours of operation, you need to lift the seams not a big tassel. At the same time, if there are holes or jackets in the seams, then you must tempt them! Otherwise, when the temperature drops of +/- degrees there will be to fall there and the seam will be sworn during freezing, and through time and brick itself. All drops of solution from the wall should also wipe the cloth as after drying it will wipe it hard much. By the way, after some time on the wall it is possible to appear white spots. It serves salt, which was in the sand. There is nothing terrible here she is easily wiped with a cloth, well, or you need to wait until the rain is mocking it.

The laying of facing brick is the process of painstaking, requiring accuracy. Therefore, take patience.

Stage 3. Production of frame under the arch of brick

In order to lay out the arch from the brick, first we need to make a frame under it. Beauty here we have nothing to do. The main strength and smooth bend. We take a USB sheet with a thickness of 10 mm and cut with an electroll bias two crescent strips width of at least 6 centimeters. The length and bending of the crescents are individual for each window.



Next, these crescents need to be twisted with each other, as shown in the photo below. We use old bars for this, the thickness of them can be different, but the width is equal from 10 to 12 centimeters. And the length of equal to the height of our windows.

We insert the bars between the two crescents and twist with self-strains with a length of 45 mm after which the frame is ready for use.

Stage 4. Production Arch

By installing the frame to the place where the arched window will begin to run the frame on top of the brick.

Only now the brick will not put horizontally, but vertically the twitch side on the face of masonry. But as the brick length is 25 cm, and the width of our masonry is 17 cm (the width of the brick 12.5 cm + air layer 4-5cm) then the brick will have to trim in length. For cutting bricks, we will use a grinder with a diamond circle along concrete.

The priming bricks of the main wall will need to be littered at an angle. The arch must be with respect to the main wall on the plane in one level or 2-4 cm to protrude out, the case of the client's taste. A day later, three frames arches can be safely disassembled. Arch is ready.

Stage 5. Warming of brick walls at home by foam outside

The air layer, which we left between the main wall and ceramic brick we still fill. This is an integral part of the house cladding with facing brick with insulation. The following is the question: What should the insulation between the brick wall and facing bricks? To do this, we decided to use bulk foam, which is sold in bags. Why it is him, not a sheet foam?

But why. The advantage is the first: if the walls of the building for some reason were not even, then the bulk foam in the backbone does not respond. But with the sheets will have to suffer. The advantage of the second: mice can get mice in the sheet foam and make themselves many moves and holes. In the bulk foam, it is impossible to make a turn so as mice do not have the ability to climb it. Freight by paws, they sharpen like a truck in the mud, staying in place.


Before falling down the foam in the wall, you need to close the slots around the perimeter of windows and doors using mineral wool or sheet foam. Moreover, the latter is better, since when spacing, the slopes on the foam will be easier to put a putty.

Note: To inside the walls of a brick house without excesses outside in windy weather, foam does not advise. All foam sprouts on your yard at best, and at worst even the neighbors will notice.


Attention! We received a review that, with such insulation, during the year, the foam was falling asleep in this way can occur on three meters of house height of about 60-70 cm. There was experience of disassembling such walls. As experience shows the insulation of voids gives a small effect. In this material in the photo it was seen that they had the opportunity to attach the usual foam to the walls even on the glue-foam. And then put the masonry. The difference in the price of materials is not significant.
It is possible to correct this by joining the perlite in the resulting emptiness at the top of the masonry.

Yuri, the author of the article responds: To prove the shrinkage, we protracted foam crumb through each meter of height. In addition, for the subfolder in two or three years, it is enough to remove the stitch and make a shaping. And yet, the difference in price is not significant, but there are two but ... 1. In such a foam mice, it is three times less often and not for a long time since it is not convenient to do the stroke there and they simply fall down. 2. Using leaf foam needed a more or less smooth surface, for a bulk it is nothing.

o-Builder.ru.

Variants of insulation of brick walls

If we are talking about brick walls, then the options for their insulation have a mass, but all of them can be divided into three groups on the basis of location:

  1. Internal location. The insulation is mounted on the wall indoors.
  2. Wall insulation between brick masonry. The heat insulation material is located between the layers of the brick.
  3. External, or facade insulation. There are options: wet when the insulation is mounted onto the wall and covered with plaster, and dry when you use hinged facade designs.

Let's briefly consider these options.

Internal location

This is the most ineffective and even harmful way, since it cuts off the bearing structures from heating, which leads to a variety of negative consequences. The only excuse for such a method of insulation of a brick wall from the inside is the impossibility of other options.

Here is a list of shortcomings of the internal arrangement of the insulation:

  • The outer walls that are the main supporting structures of the building are cut off from the heating system, as a result of which it is performed completely, which leads to premature wear and aging of materials;
  • Brickwork has a limited resource of cycles of frost-thawing cycles, while being outside the heated zone, it produces this resource much faster;
  • The internal location shifts the dew point, which leads to the condensation losing right on the wall surface or in the thickness of the insulation, as a result - fungus, mold, corrosion and other troubles;
  • The useful inner volume of premises is reduced;
  • It is difficult to hang furniture and other accessories on the walls.

This is not a complete list, but it is enough to make sure that the insulation of this method of insulation. Of course, working indoors is more convenient and more comfortable, the price of work falls, but this is a weak excuse for disrupting construction axioms.

Tip!
Of course, insulate the wall of the multi-storey house at a high altitude with their own hands - it is not easy, but it is better to spend time once on professionals, than then to suffer over the years.

Interlayal location

This is a fairly effective way of location of thermal insulation.

However, there are some points to which you should specify:

  • It is possible to implement such insulation only at the construction stage, since otherwise it will be too expensive and unreasonably time-consuming;
  • All work must be carried out simply perfect, as you will not dismiss and remake with you;
  • Repair or insulation replacement is very difficult if not to say impossible.

If you do not scare this list, then go further. How to choose a heater under brickwork? There are several options: bulk materials, solid plates and mineral wool.

The first method is the cheapest, but also the most ineffective. In addition, it is quite laborious, as it requires well clips and other nuances. There is also a danger of regenerating the bulk insulation and the loss of its thermal insulation qualities.

When choosing a slab insulation, you must be guided by such principles: the material is obliged to have low hygroscopicity, and it is better to be hydrophobized, and it should be well done. And, of course, have a long service life.

Several materials are suitable for these requirements: foam plastic, polystyrene foam, foam-glass, dense basalt wool.

It is also worth saying about another rule: the insulation is located as close as possible to the outer layer. That is, you build a wall using a building brick from ceramics or a double silicate brick M 150, warm it with a layer of thermal insulation in accordance with the rules of installation of a material, and then laying out the cladding layer of masonry in the Pollipich. Such an instruction is the most faithful.

Important!
When using mineral wool, they advise to leave a small gap in 1 - 2 centimeters between the insulation and the facing layer of bricks.
This will allow moisture from the insulation by the same principle as in the ventilated facade.

Of all the listed materials, the most suitable is extruded polystyrene foam, since this material:

  • no moisture is afraid
  • does not absorb her
  • well enough to compress
  • not afraid of pests
  • biological or electrochemical corrosion
  • it has a long shelf life.

External insulation

Facade insulation seems to be the most acceptable.

  1. First, it can be made both in the construction process and on the old wall.
  2. Secondly, this is a fairly simple procedure that does not require special skills and skills.
  3. Thirdly, the external arrangement of thermal insulation is most acceptable from the point of view of thermal physics, since it does not shift the dew point inside the design.

Finally, you always have access to the thermal insulation layer, and you can replace it or produce any local repairs.

With facade insulation, two main methods are used: wet and dry. The first implies the location of the insulation under the layer of facade plaster or putty, which is applied to a wet way.

The second method implies the use of mounted facade structures, such as siding, blockchauses or ventilated facade of classical design.

Each of the listed methods has shortcomings and advantages, but in general the wet method is more popular, as it is easier and cheaper. On the other hand, the ventilated facade is longer and allows you to make any local repair by replacing one panel or insulation plate.

Output

The main factor in the insulation of the wall is the location of the insulation. The internal does not seem acceptable, but the intravenous allows you to maintain the external aesthetics and tectonics of brickwork, which is important for many connoisseurs. In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.

klademkirpich.ru.

Masonry with insulation: species, advantages and disadvantages

The technological process on the construction of a building from a brick with a warming material inside is classified at the place of fastening of the insulation. Lightweight well technique includes two independent designs, inside with small horizontal brick bridges or polystyrene foam. Brickwork with insulation suggests such advantages:

  • The thickness of the insulation does not exceed the thickness of the structure.
  • The substance inside is not amenable to fire.
  • Outside, the laying has a view of a brick wall, which allows you to decorate the design.
  • Can be erected at any time.

Despite all the advantages, two-layer walls have a number of minuses:

  • require the execution of a large number of works;
  • it is necessary to constantly monitor the condition of the insulation inside;
  • heat engineering homogeneity at a low level;
  • bridges retain cold;
  • it is difficult to repair.
With a three-layer design, a parobarrier can be facing brick.

Another embodiment of the insulation element in the process of brickwork is a three-layer design. In this case, panels that preserve heat are used. The insulation is attached due to the use of anchors. The devices are pre-fixed in the wall. When using this technology, a parobarar is needed to prevent condensate education. You can make it from the facial brick or apply a decorative stone.

Warming the walls in three layers are dangerous, because such structures are subject to speedy deformation.

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What material is used to insulate the house?

Thermal insulation in the construction of brick structures can be carried out through different materials. Most often use the following:

  • mineral wool;
  • polystyolmine;
  • glasswater.

Sometimes a slag is used for outer walls, which fall asleep into the cavity between the walls. Such a heater under brickwork is better because it improves the strength of the structure. When choosing than insulation, the structure needs to pay attention to such qualities:

Polyfoam can be used when it is important not to overload the foundation.
  • Stability to deformation. The heat insulation product should not be changed in size or structure under the influence of weather conditions. Especially relevant if the facial part will be insulated.
  • Moisture resistance. The laying with insulation inside should be carried out with such materials that do not absorb moisture. In this regard, it is better to use fiberglass.
  • Do not overload the foundation. Particularly effective method "Brick-foam brick".
  • Do not require complex design and installation work. Warm through expanded polystyrene and quickly.

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How to calculate the thickness of the insulation for brickwork?

The insulation of the walls of 2 bricks must be carried out with the exact calculation of the number of necessary materials. To minimize extra costs and make masonry in a half brick warmer, it is necessary to accurately calculate the thickness of the insulation. Each building material that is used to build outdoor walls has its own characteristics. The main requirements on the basis of which are selected for insulation material, are presented in the table:

Penoplex - Material that is insulates the house on the same principle as polystyrene foam.

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Preparatory activities

For work, you can buy a penplex.

Before installing the insulation between the block and the brick, it is necessary to prepare. After purchasing and calculating the material, it is important to collect such tools and consumables:

  • brick;
  • mixture for masonry;
  • reinforcement grid;
  • material for thermal insulation (concrete, crushed stone);
  • insulation (foam, penplex);
  • plaster for lining with bricks;
  • trowel;
  • putty knife;
  • plumb;
  • building level;
  • a container for the solution;
  • anchor.

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Stages of construction

Insulated laying of walls in one brick with a finish of a facial fragment is the best way to improve the characteristics of the main material and keep the house warm. The algorithm of actions depends on the chosen technology of the structure. Layered laying using an effective insulation involves performing several steps of work:

  1. The three-layer design begins with the layout of the corners.
  2. After that, anchors are fastened.
  3. Installed insulation.
  4. Parobarrier is mounted.
  5. Located facing brick.

If it is supposed to complete the work on insulation after the construction of the walls of the brick, the facial material is not laid out. Usually such tactics are chosen for a less expensive method using foam. Then finishing work finish after fastening the material. With sequential execution of the steps and the availability of high-quality material, you can not only save the heat, but also improve the characteristics of the structure strength.

etokirpichi.ru.

Types of masonry walls with insulation inside

There are two types of car walls of bricks, inside which insulation is located. The first method is the so-called lightweight wedge, consisting of two independent brick walls.

To increase the strength of the design, they are connected with horizontal brick brick bridges. And the resulting hollow wells inside them are filled with thermal insulating material.

The second method involves a device of a three-layer wall structure. In this case, the brick wall is facing with tiled thermal insulating material, on top of which the third layer is laid out - facing brick. However, due to the fact that cases of destruction of buildings erected under this technology, its use in Russia is prohibited from 2008.

The technological reception using a lightweight well-type makes it possible not only to increase the thermal inertia of the brick wall, but also significantly reduce the construction estimate.

When conducting low-rise construction, it will be enough to make a wall septum of 1.5 bricks to achieve the necessary bearing strength. And the heat resistance of the structure is ensured by the insulation of the walls.

The use of a combination of brickwork with insulation allows you to achieve:

  • considerable economy of building materials;
  • reduction of load on the foundation;
  • cost reduction compared to traditional brick masonry;
  • reduction of heat loss almost twice.

Wall construction technology with insulation inside

Well-facilitated brickwork is not a new invention. It rather refers to undeservedly forgotten building technologies. Due to its economy and high energy saving, it has recently become quite popular.

To increase the stability of the bearing walls with this form of construction, the hollow wells are built in the method of launching bricks from the outer and inner layer of masonry. Such wells are performed in the form of a transverse wall, the thickness of which is ½ brick and with a distance between them 2-4 bricks. The formed emptiness is filled with light concrete, slag, claying or other thermal insulating material.

Required tools and materials:

  • brick;
  • mortar for masonry;
  • reinforcement grid;
  • thermal insulation material (clay, concrete, crushed stone, sand);
  • polyfoam (optional);
  • plaster mix for outdoor decoration;
  • trowel;
  • plumb;
  • putty knife.

To perform well masonry, you need:

  1. Work should be started with an angle of the inner and outer wall.
  2. During the process of the angles and location of vertical internal partitions, they are laid out by tych.
  3. Longitudinal walls must be lined with spoonful.
  4. The laying of the transverse walls of the wells is carried out by tiley.
  5. The bandage of the transverse wall with longitudinal is carried out through a row in height.
  6. After 4-5 rows of walls are posted in the well, the insulation is poured. In this case, you can use such a insulation material like sand, crushed stone, clay. It is placed between the walls of the layers of 10-15 cm, while the trambra is well. Every 30-50 cm insulated insulation is watering with a solution. To prevent its settlement, make horizontal jumpers every 30-60 cm. In some cases, it makes sense to the external and inner walls of the wells lay panels of foam. This will prevent insulation moisturizing. For this, the foam is suitable with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm.
  7. The device of wall brick partitions is completed with solid masonry in three or four rows with compulsory placing in the last row of the reinforcing grid.

Some types of masonry from the outside of the house are necessarily plastering. This applies to the well. The use of heat-resistant plaster will additionally increase the design, insulate the building and prevent moisture from entering the heat insulating material.

1potePly.ru.

Technology of insulation and wall cladding

The technique facing bricks with insulation is quite complicated and includes several main stages:

Below you read the main nuances of work at each of these stages.

Choosing and preparation of materials

Before proceeding to work on the insulation of the wall and its further finish, it is necessary to determine the type of insulation. Currently, there are quite a few heat-insulating materials, however, the following heat insulators are most often used for voiced purposes:

  • mineral mats - eco-friendly and durable material, which is absolutely fireproof. The disadvantage of mats is a high level of moisture absorption and relatively high cost. In addition, keep in mind that the fibers of mineral mats getting into the skin, mucous or in the respiratory tract, cause irritation, so when working with this material it is necessary to use personal protective equipment;
  • polystyrene foam is a lightweight material that has a much smaller level of moisture absorption than minvat and at the same time it is cheaper. However, keep in mind that expanded polystyrene is less durable, moreover, supports the combustion process and toxic in case of fire;
  • extruded polystyrene foam is a type of conventional foam, but differs greater durability and durability, as well as zero levels of moisture absorption, therefore, on operational qualities, it is also excellent for a wall under the lining brick. The disadvantage, in addition to toxicity and fire hazard, is the high cost.

The thickness of the insulation for walls of bricks or other materials depends on climate in your region. If the temperature in winter often falls below 25 degrees Celsius, the insulation of a thickness of 150 mm should be used. If you live in a warmer climate, sufficiently insulation with a thickness of 100 mm.

As you can see, all materials have their own flaws and advantages. Therefore, everyone should decide for itself, what better insulation use.

In addition to the insulation, other materials must be prepared. You will need:

  • antiseptic primer for wall processing (if the walls are wooden, you will need a protective impregnation for wood;
  • vapor barrier film;
  • dowel umbrellas;
  • flexible connections (anchors that allow not only to fix the insulation, but also to connect the carrier wall with facing);

Preparation of the Wall

The next step is the preparation of walls. To do this, you must perform the following actions:

  1. start working from dismantling all available hinged elements. It can be antennas, all kinds of visors, foals, window sills and other parts that will interfere with the insulation and finishing of the facade;
  2. if the facade has penetrating and sprinkled areas, they must be removed. To do this, you can take advantage of the chisel and the board;
  3. if the house is wooden, log or brusade, it is necessary to insulate interventical gaps. To do this, you can use packs, mounting foam, latex sealant or other suitable heat insulation;
  4. after this wall, it is necessary to handle a protective deep-peer composition or impregnation for wood. The instructions for the use of compositions are always on the package.

If the house is recently built, it is possible to start it after completing the interior decoration, i.e. After the walls are dried. Otherwise, the material of the walls will absorb moisture, which will lead to a number of negative consequences, such as the wetting of the insulation, the appearance of mold, etc.

On this work on the preparation of the facade completed.

Wall insulation

The next step is the installation of the insulation. It must be said that the insulation is often assembled on flexible ties in the construction of the facing wall. However, it is more convenient to "grab" slabs at the beginning, after which it is to build a wall and install flexible connections.

Regardless which type of insulation you will use for the heat insulation of the walls, the instruction on its installation looks like this:

  1. first of all, you need to hydroize the breakfast. To do this, it is possible to miss it with bitumen mastics and then stick to it ruboreoid. The latter must be located for about 10 cm, and the joints of the joints should also be placed with bitumen mastic.
    It must be said that instead of the runneroid, other rolled waterproofing materials can be used, however, the runneroid is the most budget solution;
  2. now you need to fix the insulation on the wall. To do this, take advantage of special dowels, which people are called umbrellas or fungi. Installation of the insulation should be started from the corner and perform it with rows.

In the process of installation, make sure that there are no slots between the insulation plates, as well as between the insulation and the waterproofing gesture.

For fastening the heat insulation, simply press it out to the wall and through the plates drump up the holes for the dowels. After that, insert the umbrellas into the holes and score expansion nails in them.

For a start, to simply "grab" thermal insulation, enough pair of dowels on one plate;

  1. now fasten a vapor insulation membrane on the insulation, placing it with a mustache. For fastening the film, also use dowels umbrellas.
    If you are facing the walls with clinker facing brick, then vapor barrier can be performed, since this material has a practically zero moisture-absorption coefficient.

People are often interested in the forums - is the insulation need between a gas silica and brick? Despite the fact that the gas silicate itself has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, the additional insulation will make housing even more comfortable and energy saving.

It should be noted that according to such a scheme, the insulation is performed only on monolithic, brick and wooden walls. If the walls are made of aerated concrete, the work is carried out somewhat differently:

  1. first of all, you need to mark the layout of flexible connections, taking into account the fact that they should be laid in horizontal seams between bricks. Therefore, count the height of the brick from the foundation.
    Anchors should be located in increasing about 50 centimeters, both vertically and horizontally;
  2. now you need to drill the holes in diameter and the length of the tips (sleeves) of flexible connections;
  1. after that, you need to screw the tips of the anchors into the holes using a special key. The sleeves should be completely immersed in aerated concrete;
  2. further, the sticking flexible ties should be chopped insulation. Install it so that there are no cracks between the plates;
  3. after that, over the insulation, fasten the vaporizolation membrane, which is also punishable on the anchor;
  4. at the end of operation, fasten the insulation and vapor barrier film by clamps, which are put on an anchor and snap, pressing, thus, steam and thermal insulation to the wall.

Steamed in a gas-concrete house must be installed not only between the block and brick, but also from the inside, i.e. From the side of the room.

After mounting the insulation, you can proceed to the brickwork.

Facing wall laying nuances

First of all, I note that the facing wall has a sufficiently large weight, so it must be built on the foundation. If the foundation of the house was originally designed to build a facing wall, along the perimeter of the house, you need to perform an additional tape small-breeding foundation.

On our portal you can find detailed information on how it is being done. The only thing, keep in mind that there should be space in several centimeters between the insulation and facing wall.

Before laying bricks, it is necessary to perform waterproofing the foundation. To do this, put on top of it several layers of rubberoid. Further work is carried out in such a sequence:

  1. work begins with laying the first row. At the same time, lighthouses are used and the construction level, which ensures the smooth location of the series;
  2. if flexible ties were not installed in advance, over the first round of bricks in the wall drills a hole to the necessary depth and anchor is clogged into it. After that, a limiter is put on the anchor, which additionally holds thermal insulation;
  1. the end of the flexible bond is laid between bricks to a depth of about 10 cm. To do this, the solution is stacked directly;
  2. in the second row, products are performed. To do this, every two bricks leave vertical seams, unfilled with solution;
  1. according to this principle, the entire cladding wall is erected, taking into account the fact that flexible ties should be located in a step of 50 cm vertically and horizontally. In addition, they are installed around the perimeter of window and doorways;
  2. in the top row of bricks, i.e. Under the skes are performed by the scheme described above. It is necessary to ensure the ventilation of the space between the wall and the insulation.

Here, in fact, all information on how the insulation of the walls under the facing brick is carried out. The only thing, finally note that the process of cladding itself is quite complicated, requiring high qualification from the Mason, so it is better to trust this stage of work to specialists. True, the price of this service is also not small - on average, it begins from 800 rubles per square meter.

obustroeno.com.

Features of brick walls

In the modern realities of a wall of ceramic hollow brick, 60 cm does not sufficiently retain heat. Only an enlarged masonry creates an additional load on the foundation, or the use of insulation create conditions for the implementation of modern building standards and help improve the operational characteristics of the building.

According to Russian construction standards, for the Moscow region, the required thickness of the wall from ceramic hollow brick should be equal to one and a half meters. Applying 10 cm of polystyrene from the outside, we obtain a laying of a thickness of 35 cm, satisfying the requirements.

Walls are made of hollow or full-scale bricks. Different solutions are used for masonry. And the structure of the masonry can be solid and with air pocket (well). From here - various requirements for the wall thickness and insulation. The insulation of brick walls requires the calculation of the heat-insulating layer in the thickness and method of placement when taking into account all factors.

How to warm the brick house? For solid masonry - it is recommended to insulate from the street. The thickness and type of thermal insulation depends on the characteristics of the enclosing structure, the climatic zone and the required heat resistance of the wall of the wall. If the laying is well, insulation is possible to do inside, between bricks or external insulation. The presence in the layer of the heat insulating material reduces the heat loss of the building, but the risk of moisture is possible.

Material for insulation and thickness is chosen based on the point of dew dropping point and taking into account the vapor permeability of the layers of the finished wall design.

Algorithm of action when insulation of a brick house

The instruction for insulation of the brick structure looks like this:

  1. Choose a suitable insulation present in your area.
  2. Select the finishing material that you want to close the heat insulation.
  3. Choose a facade system where the previously selected insulation and finishing is applied.
  4. Determine the required value of the heat transfer resistance of the enclosing structures in your region. To do this, you need to know the number of degree tickets in your region. For example, for Moscow, the coefficient of heat resistance of the wall is equal to at least 3.2 m2 × ° C / W.
  5. Next, use the Calculator to calculate insulation (for example, SmartCalc.ru), where we enter the layers of the future wall. By the way, in the calculator for many regions, there are already data on the required coefficient of the heat resistance and the degree and day, you only need to choose the city of construction.
  6. If the wall is not warm enough by the calculator, then either we increase the thickness of the insulation, or replace it with another, with a better indicator of heat resistance. In case the structure is only built, then the masonry solution can be replaced with a warm, which will also give an increase in heat resistance.
  7. When the wall turned out to be warm according to the calculator, that is, an equally required coefficient of heating resistance, then checking on the vapor permeability of the layers.
  8. If the vapor permeability of the layers satisfies the requirement to increase the vapor permeability of the layers from the room towards the street, then proceed to work.

Example of a brick wall with insulation outside Look at the end of the article

Insulation suitable for a brick house

Choosing, the better to insulate, you need to consider the characteristics of each material. The thermal conductivity predetermines the desired layer thickness. There are also durability, operational qualities, naturalness. Some of the materials can insulate the brick house outside, while others are used inside. The following popular species apply.

Sprayed (polyurethane foam, eco-tree).

  • Polyurethan originally - liquid components that are applied to the vertical surface, producing maximum thermal insulation. Before you warm the brick house outside, the framework is built into which it is poured and finished with facing. And also polyurethane filling the cavities in the walls.
  • Equata (cellulose wool) is a product of recycling of secondary paper raw materials. Being harmless to humans, a resistant to microbes and mushrooms, not flammable, impregnated with antipirens (substances that prevent fire).

Slave insulation

Stone wool foamed polystyrene foam, foam glass slab, also insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. Basalt fiber plates - fire-resistant insulation that reduces heating costs.

Penodoneglo - insulation with a cellular structure. It is made in the form of plates and blocks. And also does not burn, it is environmentally safe, not amazed by mushrooms, bacteria. More details with this material get acquainted by reading our article.

The insulation of a brick house with foam is a reduced thermal conductivity of walls, easy installation and relatively low cost. Disadvantages - flammable with the release of harmful substances, fragility.

The insulation of the house of the penplex - effective preservation of heat, strength, resistance to the penetration of moisture inside. Extruded polystyrene foam (which is also penoplex) insulate buildings, increasing thermal resistance. The material does not crumble and resistant to biological infection. More often used in the area of \u200b\u200bthe base.

Rolled (glass gamble, flaxier insulation).

Warm the house of glass coat is inexpensive and easy, it will warmly insulate. For mounting on the wall make the crate, then install cotton. The cotton house is covered with windproof material and then finishing material.

Linen insulation (mats) usually does not contain artificial additives, processed by fire fights, eco-friendly and safe.

Filing and flowing (foamizol, ceramzite, vermiculite, perlite).

Keramzite - material with thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.10 - 0.18 W / (M · K), applicable for intrauterine insulation. The walls are erected on some height with the gap between them, where the ceramzite is falling asleep, after which the construction continues. The perlite (mining volcanic rock), vermiculite (mineral with a layered structure) is used similarly. Penosol is a type of foam, which is pumped in the cavity of the structures of liquid.

Building decoration

Selecting the insulation, you need to consider the possibility of using a particular finish, behind which it will be hidden. Finishing options, following:


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September 5, 2016
Specialization: finishing of facades, interior decoration, construction of cottages, garages. Experience and gardener and gardener experience. There is also experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: the game is not a guitar and a lot more, to which there is not enough time :)

Facing walls brick is a reliable and durable way to finish the facade, which is able to transform the appearance of the house. However, the brick itself does not heat the walls very much, so if you want housing to become warm and energy saving, between the main and facing walls it is necessary to arrange the insulation. In this article, I will tell you in detail how to insulate the walls of the house for lining with bricks.

Technology of insulation and wall cladding

The technique facing bricks with insulation is quite complicated and includes several main stages:

Below you read the main nuances of work at each of these stages.

Choosing and preparation of materials

Before proceeding to work on the insulation of the wall and its further finish, it is necessary to determine the type of insulation. Currently, there are quite a few heat-insulating materials, however, the following heat insulators are most often used for voiced purposes:

  • mineral mats - eco-friendly and durable material, which is absolutely fireproof. The disadvantage of mats is a high level of moisture absorption and relatively high cost. In addition, keep in mind that the fibers of mineral mats getting into the skin, mucous or in the respiratory tract, cause irritation, so when working with this material it is necessary to use personal protective equipment;

  • polystyrene foam is a lightweight material that has a much smaller level of moisture absorption than minvat and at the same time it is cheaper. However, keep in mind that expanded polystyrene is less durable, moreover, supports the combustion process and toxic in case of fire;
  • extruded polystyrene foam is a type of conventional foam, but differs greater durability and durability, as well as zero levels of moisture absorption, therefore, on operational qualities, it is also excellent for a wall under the lining brick. The disadvantage, in addition to toxicity and fire hazard, is the high cost.

The thickness of the insulation for walls of bricks or other materials depends on climate in your region. If the temperature in winter often falls below 25 degrees Celsius, the insulation of a thickness of 150 mm should be used. If you live in a warmer climate, sufficiently insulation with a thickness of 100 mm.

As you can see, all materials have their own flaws and advantages. Therefore, everyone should decide for itself, what better insulation use.

In addition to the insulation, other materials must be prepared. You will need:

  • antiseptic primer for wall processing (if the walls are wooden, you will need a protective impregnation for wood;
  • vapor barrier film;
  • dowel umbrellas;
  • flexible connections (anchors that allow not only to fix the insulation, but also to connect the carrier wall with facing);

Preparation of the Wall

The next step is the preparation of walls. To do this, you must perform the following actions:

  1. start working from dismantling all available hinged elements. These can be antennas, all sorts of visors, flows, window sills and other parts that will interfere with insulation and facade;
  2. if the facade has penetrating and sprinkled areas, they must be removed. To do this, you can take advantage of the chisel and the board;
  3. if the house is wooden, log or brusade, it is necessary to insulate interventical gaps. To do this, you can use packs, mounting foam, latex sealant or other suitable heat insulation;
  4. after this wall, it is necessary to handle a protective deep-peer composition or impregnation for wood. The instructions for the use of compositions are always on the package.

If the house is recently built, it is possible to start it after completing the interior decoration, i.e. After the walls are dried. Otherwise, the material of the walls will absorb moisture, which will lead to a number of negative consequences, such as the wetting of the insulation, the appearance of mold, etc.

On this work on the preparation of the facade completed.

In the diagram - the design of a wall of bricks with insulation

Wall insulation

The next step is the installation of the insulation. It must be said that the insulation is often assembled on flexible ties in the construction of the facing wall. However, it is more convenient to "grab" slabs at the beginning, after which it is to build a wall and install flexible connections.

Regardless which type of insulation you will use for the heat insulation of the walls, the instruction on its installation looks like this:

  1. first of all, you need to hydroize the breakfast. To do this, it is possible to miss it with bitumen mastics and then stick to it ruboreoid. The latter must be located for about 10 cm, and the joints of the joints should also be placed with bitumen mastic.
    It must be said that instead of the runneroid, other rolled waterproofing materials can be used, however, the runneroid is the most budget solution;
  2. now you need to fix the insulation on the wall. To do this, take advantage of special dowels, which people are called umbrellas or fungi. Installation of the insulation should be started from the corner and perform it with rows.

In the process of installation, make sure that there are no slots between the insulation plates, as well as between the insulation and the waterproofing gesture.

For fastening the heat insulation, simply press it out to the wall and through the plates drump up the holes for the dowels. After that, insert the umbrellas into the holes and score expansion nails in them.

For a start, to simply "grab" thermal insulation, enough pair of dowels on one plate;

  1. now fasten a vapor insulation membrane on the insulation, placing it with a mustache. For fastening the film, also use dowels umbrellas.
    If you are facing the walls with facing brick, then vaporizolation can be not performed, since this material has a practically zero moisture coefficient.

People are often interested in the forums - is the insulation need between a gas silica and brick? Despite the fact that the gas silicate itself has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, the additional insulation will make housing even more comfortable and energy saving.

It should be noted that according to such a scheme, the insulation is performed only on monolithic, brick and wooden walls. If the walls are made of aerated concrete, the work is carried out somewhat differently:

  1. first of all, you need to mark the layout of flexible connections, taking into account the fact that they should be laid in horizontal seams between bricks. Therefore, count the height of the brick from the foundation.
    Anchors should be located in increasing about 50 centimeters, both vertically and horizontally;
  2. now you need to drill the holes in diameter and the length of the tips (sleeves) of flexible connections;

  1. after that, you need to screw the tips of the anchors into the holes using a special key. The sleeves should be completely immersed in aerated concrete;
  2. further, the sticking flexible ties should be chopped insulation. Install it so that there are no cracks between the plates;
  3. after that, over the insulation, fasten the vaporizolation membrane, which is also punishable on the anchor;
  4. at the end of operation, fasten the insulation and vapor barrier film by clamps, which are put on an anchor and snap, pressing, thus, steam and thermal insulation to the wall.

Steamed in a gas-concrete house must be installed not only between the block and brick, but also from the inside, i.e. From the side of the room.

After mounting the insulation, you can proceed to the brickwork.

Facing wall laying nuances

First of all, I note that the facing wall has a sufficiently large weight, so it must be built on the foundation. If the foundation of the house was originally designed to build a facing wall, along the perimeter of the house, you need to perform an additional tape small-breeding foundation.

On our portal you can find detailed information on how it is being done. The only thing, keep in mind that there should be space in several centimeters between the insulation and facing wall.

Before laying bricks, it is necessary to perform waterproofing the foundation. To do this, put on top of it several layers of rubberoid. Further work is carried out in such a sequence:

  1. work begins with laying the first row. At the same time, lighthouses are used and the construction level, which ensures the smooth location of the series;
  2. if flexible ties were not installed in advance, over the first round of bricks in the wall drills a hole to the necessary depth and anchor is clogged into it. After that, a limiter is put on the anchor, which additionally holds thermal insulation;

  1. the end of the flexible bond is laid between bricks to a depth of about 10 cm. To do this, the solution is stacked directly;
  2. in the second row, products are performed. To do this, every two bricks leave vertical seams, unfilled with solution;

  1. according to this principle, the entire cladding wall is erected, taking into account the fact that flexible ties should be located in a step of 50 cm vertically and horizontally. In addition, they are installed around the perimeter of window and doorways;
  2. in the top row of bricks, i.e. Under the skes are performed by the scheme described above. It is necessary to ensure the ventilation of the space between the wall and the insulation.

Here, in fact, all information on how the insulation of the walls under the facing brick is carried out. The only thing, finally note that the process of cladding itself is quite complicated, requiring high qualification from the Mason, so it is better to trust this stage of work to specialists. True, the price of this service is also not small - on average, it begins from 800 rubles per square meter.

With insufficient insulation of the walls, about 60% of the heat used to heat the dwellings are lost. However, those currently operating since 2000 demanded from the builders of the use of modern highly efficient insulation materials, significantly improving the heat shield properties of walls

To the question, from which building a house is from wood, brick, concrete, or their numerous and varied combinations, everyone responds in its own way. The choice depends on the set of factors, among which personal addictions often play a much more substantial role than practical considerations. We will try to stay in practical moments and will proceed from what is decided to build a brick house. The main advantage of a brick building is its undoubted strength and unlimited service life, naturally, provided that the proper construction and competent operation.

Thicker - does not mean warmer

The thickness of the capital brick walls is always (well, or almost always) to the size of half of the brick, but it does not happen less than 25 cm, that is, one of its length. Of the richest construction practices, it is well known that even a wall in one brick is able to carry any uniformly distributed load arising in single, two-storey houses from the above-described structures. Heat engineering calculations show that at the temperature "overboard" -30 ° C, namely, such a temperature is not rare in winter in most areas of the central part of Russia, to maintain heat in the house the thickness of its outer walls (with a solid masonry without voids and in cement-sand The solution) should be at least 160 cm. Walls made of silicate bricks will be threatening.

The usual red brick is full and hollow. For exterior walls, it is better to use the hollow, the air sinuses of which significantly improve the heat-shield characteristics of the structure. In addition, the masonry itself must be carried out with the formation of voids, wells, exhausted seams filled with heat-insulating material, apply effective modern insulation and so-called warm masonry solutions. Equal, and even more serious effect can be achieved using all sorts of insulation, masonry with the formation of emptiness, picked up brick.

The trick of the masonry of the brick walls is the use of warm masonry solutions containing slags as a filler, claying, tuff, perlite, etc. The usual cement-sand masonry solution has a thermal conductivity close to the thermal conductivity of a full-scale brick, and the mixture with such fillers it turns out about 10-15% lower. It also rather significantly increases the thermal protection properties of the walls, because the total area of \u200b\u200bseams in the masonry is almost 10%.

Where does it go warm?

An important question that interests many potential customers, sounds approximately as follows: "Where should the insulation be located on the walls - indoors, outside or in the body of masonry?"

The greatest weight losses in the houses, including individual, and 20 years ago came on the windows. With so much until recently double glazing, the specific heat flux through the windows 4-6 times exceeds the thermal flow through the walls. And this is despite the fact that the windows area rarely makes up the fifth of the total area of \u200b\u200bthe enclosing structures. We will make a reservation at once that the use of multi-chamber PVC profiles with three- or four-chamber glass packages significantly reduces thermal losses. 9-10% of the heat leaves the house through the roof and the same goes to the ground through the basement. And 60% of losses account for precisely on the share of dismissed walls.

The location of the dew point depending on the type of wall insulation

Consider three versions of the wall design: solid without insulation; with insulation from the side of the room; With outdoor insulation. Temperature in the house according to the current standards determining the level of comfortable accommodation should be + 20 ° C. The measurement specialists show that at a street temperature -15 ° C, the temperature of the inner surface of the lavety wall is about 12-14 ° C, the outer - about -12 ° C. The dew point (point, the temperature in which corresponds to the beginning of the condensation of moisture) is located inside the wall. Given the fact that part of the enclosing structure has a negative temperature, the wall freezes.

If there is insulation, located on the walls indoors, the picture varies significantly. The temperature of the inner surface of the wall (more precisely, the insulation of the insulation) in such a structure is approximately + 17 ° C. At the same time, the temperature of the masonry from the inside of the building is zero, and outside - just below the outdoor air temperature - order -14 ° C. The house with such internal heat insulation can be quickly warm, however, brick walls do not accumulate heat, and when the heating devices are disconnected, the room is rapidly cooled. But worse than the other: the dew point is located between the wall and the layer of thermal insulation, as a result, moisture accumulates here, possibly the appearance of mold and fungus, the wall is still freezing. However, thermal losses are somewhat declined compared to a laptile design.

Finally, the third option is the external heat insulation. The surface temperature of the wall inside the house is becoming slightly higher: 17-17.5 ° C, and the outside increases sharply - to a level of 2-3 ° C. As a result, the dew point moves inside the insulation layer, while the wall itself becomes the opportunity to accumulate heat, thermal losses from the room through the enclosing structures are significantly reduced.

The outer thermal insulation of the walls helps to solve several problems at once. First of all, with proper execution, such insulation makes it possible to achieve a high level of energy saving - the cost of heating the building is reduced by 50-60%

Layered masonry

The easiest way to increase the thermal insulation properties of brick walls is to leave the cavity in them, because the air is the perfect natural heat insulator. Therefore, it has long been in the body of the wall of full-scale bricks make closed air layers 5-7 cm wide. This is, on the one hand, it reduces almost 20% brick consumption, and on the other - 10-15% reduces the thermal conductivity of the wall. This type of masonry was called a well. The air, of course, is an excellent insulation, however, with strong winds, such walls can blow such walls through vertical seams. So that it does not occur, the facades are plastered outside, and various insulation laid into air empties. Now the type of wellwork is widely used, the name of layered: carrying a brick wall, then a heater and an outer layer of facial bricks.

Options for insulation of walls with a bunch of two layers of brick masonry (a) and metal mortgage elements (b)

The heat insulation in layered masonry, as a rule, serve plates from mineral wool (based on stone fiber or staple fiberglass) or polystyrene foam, less often from extruded polystyrene foam (due to its high price). All materials have similar thermal conductivity coefficients, so that the thickness of the insulating layer in the wall will be the same, regardless of the selected type of insulation (the thickness of the layer is determined not only by the characteristics of thermal insulation, but also the climatic zone where construction is carried out). However, fibrous materials are non-combustible than fundamentally different from expanded polystyrene, which is combustible. In addition, in contrast to polystyrene foam, fibrous plates are elastic, so when installing them is easier to press the wall tight. Certain difficulties in the use of polystyrene foam in layered masonry are also caused by low vapor permeability of this material. At the same time, the polystyrene is about four times cheaper than mineral wool, and this advantage for many customers compensates for its disadvantages. We add that, according to SP 23-101-2004, "design of thermal protection of buildings", when used in a protective structure, combustible insulation must be framed by window and other openings around the perimeter of non-combustible mineral wool.

The tight fit of the insulation is the guarantee of the effectiveness of its work, because if air pockets are allowed in the design, heat leaks from the building can occur.

The device of the insulation system of any type requires a thoughtful calculation of its vapor permeability: Each subsequent layer (from the inside out) should pass water steam better than the previous one. After all, if on the way the couple is an obstacle, then its condensation is inevitable in the thick of the enclosing design. Meanwhile, in the case of a popular solution - a wall of foam blocks, a fibrous insulation, facing brick - the vapor permeability of foam blocks is quite high, in the insulation, it is even higher, and the vintage bricks are less than that of the insulation and foam blocks. As a result, steam condensation occurs - most often on the inner surface of the wall of the facial brick (since it is in the winter in the zone of negative temperatures), which entails negative consequences. The moisture accumulates at the bottom of the masonry, over time, causing the destruction of the bricks of the lower rows. The insulation will wet throughout the thickness, and, as a result, the service life will be reduced and its heat shielding properties will significantly reduce. The enclosing structure will be wrapped, which will lead, in particular, to a decrease in the effect of the use of the insulation system, to the deformation of the room decoration, to the gradual displacement of the condensate falling zone into the thickness of the carrier wall, which can cause its premature destruction.

To one degree or another, the problem of the transfer of the steam is relevant for layered masonry with the insulation of any type. In order to avoid moisturizing insulation, it is recommended to provide for two points. First, it is necessary to create an air layer at least 2 cm between the insulation and the outer wall, and also leave a row of holes in the lower and upper parts of the masonry in the size of about 1 cm (unfilled by a solution of seam) to achieve a tributary and air exhaust to remove the steam from the insulation . However, this is not a full ventilation of the structure (in comparison, for example, with the system of the ventilated facade), therefore, secondly, it makes sense to make special holes for removing condensate from layered masonry at its lower part.

An important feature of layered masonry is the use of heat-insulating materials with sufficient rigidity and their reliable fixation - so that they do not settle over time. Flexible ties are used to further fasten the insulation and interfacing of the external and internal brick layers. Usually they are performed from steel reinforcement.

Replacing steel flexible bonds on fiberglass allows (due to thermal uniformity of the wall design) reduce the calculated thickness of mineral wool by 5-10%

In recent years, in individual construction for the construction of walls, the rapidly elevated large-format ceramic stones are used. When they are made, organic and mineral materials contributing to the formation of closed pores in the process of firing bricks to the ceramics. As a result, such stones are becoming 35-47% easier than full-length bricks of the same size, and due to the porous structure, the coefficient of their thermal conductivity reaches 0.16-0.22 W / (M · ° C), which is 3-4 times more, than a solid clay brick. Accordingly, the walls of the picked stone can be significantly less thick - only 51 cm.

Brickwork due to the high heat capacity of the material has significant thermal inertia - the walls are warm enough and are so slowly cooled. For permanent residence homes, this quality is definitely positive, since the temperature in the premises usually does not have large oscillations. But for cottages, in which the hosts are periodically visited, with long interruptions, the thermal inertia of brick walls is already playing a negative role, because for their warming, considerable fuel and time costs are required. Remove the sharpness of the problem will help the construction of the walls of a multilayer structure consisting of layers of various thermal conductivity and thermal inertia.

Outdoor insulation

Today, the exterior insulation systems obtained the greatest distribution. These include ventilated facades with air gap and "wet" facades with a thin plaster layer (a slightly less popular option with a thick plastering layer). In the facades with the "fine" plaster, the amount of heat-conducting inclusions is minimized. These are different from ventilated facades, where heat-conducting inclusions are larger and, accordingly, the insulation must be thicker, which affects the cost of the structure - in the ventilated facades it turns out above the average twice

Scheme of outdoor insulation

The name "wet" facade is associated with the use of plaster solutions in insulation systems. This is explained by the main thing and, perhaps, the only restriction on their device is seasonality of work. Since the technology provides for the presence of "wet" processes, the installation of the system can only be performed at positive temperatures.

The composition of such "wet" systems includes many different components (insulation, mesh, mineral glue, plaster mixes, dowels, profiles and a number of components), but the main layers of only three: insulation, reinforcing and protective and decorative layers. As a heater, plates made of hard heat insulating material with a low thermal conductivity coefficient are used. These may be mineral or glass plates with an average density (not lower than 145 kg / m³) or sheets of extruded non-shock self-refining expanded polystyrene foam with a density of at least 25 kg / m³. At the same time, the thermal insulation properties of the polystyrene layer with a thickness of 6 cm correspond to about 120 cm of brick masonry. The insulation is fixed on the wall with a special glue and fasteners. The heat insulation is caused by a reinforcing layer of a grid-resistant grid and a special adhesive solution, which crepts it to the insulation plate. And then they form an outer layer consisting of primer and decorative trim.

The main advantage of the "wet" facade is the possibility of obtaining a wall with any necessary degree of insulation, moreover, such a insulation system is less costly than layered masonry, despite the fact that the appearance of the facade, where high-quality plasters are applied, will be attractive for a long time. The costs and on the construction of the foundation will be reduced, since the load on it from the insulation layer will be insignificant. The use of such systems allows three times to reduce heat loss through enclosing structures and save up to 40% of the means spent on heating.

The heat shields of the enclosing structures are fixed by gtos. And these are quite tough. So providing the required level of heat loss with single-layer walls and reasonable wall thickness is simply impossible. Today, it is only a multi-layered wall with insulation. For low-rise construction, the so-called layered laying is especially popular.

What is layered masonry

The wall here consists of three layers - actually wall material (brick, foam concrete blocks, reinforced concrete), insulation (or), and cladding (ceramic, or concrete bricks, siding).

The thickness of the insulation is calculated on the basis of the properties of the insulation itself, the thermal conductivity of the wall material and the climatic zone of construction. An example is a layer of mineral wool with a thickness of 10 cm corresponds to thermal conductivity of a brick wall thickness of one and a half meter!

A ventilated clearance is organized between the insulation and facing.

The advantages of layered masonry - saving wall material, aesthetic appearance, less weight of the house (saving on the foundation), saving internal space (thin walls), the possibility of construction at any time of the year.

In addition, the facing brick on the market is a lot of colors and types, so that the house can be done really unique in appearance.

Requirements for insulation

Insulation is the most important element of the design of layered masonry. Its replacement after the construction of the house is almost impossible, so the insulation mounting should be paid special attention.

According to the properties of thermal conductivity, minvat and polystyrene foam are ideal.

Cheaper, but usually used (when done by the mind) Minvatu. Here playing a high vapor permeability from Minvati and Low - at polystyrene foam.

Now more. People will live in the house. And in exhaled people, the air always contains particles of water vapor. In turn, the brick (like foam concrete) has good vapor permeability, and thus steam is naturally excreted from the room. Only here in the case of using polystyrene foam pairs will settle in the form of moisture at the junction of the wall-insulation, destroying them and reducing the heat-insulating properties of the insulation.

Thus, the use of polystyrene foam is permissible only in case of vaporizolation of the walls of the house, i.e. You can not allow steam penetration into the wall material. But in this way, the Effect of "Parling" is achieved, and with high humidity in the house only competent and efficient ventilation will cope. That is, saving on the insulation, will have to spend on advanced ventilation.

On the contrary, if the thermal insulation has a vapor permeability coefficient higher than the material of the walls, the pair will be freely removed from it, and evaporate in the air gap.

The only case is when it is permissible to use polystyrene foam - a wall of which practically "breathing".

But necessarily should be impregnated with hydrophobic additives, which provide low water absorption of the material. Moisture, no matter how well the cladding is thought out, still falls on the insulation.

In addition, the insulation should not "sat down", otherwise, "cold bridges" is formed in the airspace. High compressibility, for example, has a famous glass wool from Soviet times.

The insulation must be non-flammable, because in the fire the fire can get on it through the door and window openings and spread to all the premises of the house. The property of non-combustible today is almost all minvats in the market.

The importance of ventilation clearance

Air, or a different ventilation gap - a mandatory element of layered masonry. As mentioned above, moisture in various ways can get into the insulation, and without this gap she simply has no place to evaporate. In the vent Gazon, it is necessary to organize the movement of the air, i.e. Make holes for air inflows in the lower and top of the gap.

Thus, the key to the success of the layered wall masonry is the correct calculation of the thickness of the insulation, the choice of its brand and the competent installation of all layers of the wall. This decision is today optimal for the construction of a house of permanent residence.

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More on the topic:

Wall insulation of walls and facades, selection of insulation, calculation of the required thickness Eco-meat insulation, insulation of walls outside the house Warming up a wooden house, cottage. Types of insulation, installation method.

In some new buildings built, the insulation is centrally located (in the middle) in the enclosing construction. With this variant, the insulation is very well protected from mechanical damage and there are more features for the design of facades. However, the risk of damage due to humidity is much higher than with external insulation, so the structure of the layers should be carefully planned and carried out without defects.

This design consists of three layers: carrier wall, walls from facing material and insulationwhich is located between them. The carrier and facing walls are based on one foundation. The outer layer is most often performed either from facing bricks, or from the construction, followed by plastering, with artificial stone, clinker tiles, etc.

Benefits

  • beautiful and respectable appearance when using expensive facing materials;
  • high durability subject to proper design and qualified design installation.

disadvantages

  • big labor intensity of construction;
  • low air permeability;
  • the possibility of moisture condensation between the heterogeneous layers of such a wall.

It is very important that all layers of design combined with each other by vapor permeability. The combination is determined only by calculating the system as a whole.

The underestimation of this circumstance can lead to the accumulation of moisture in the inside of the walls. This will create a favorable environment for the development of mold and fungus. The insulation from the possible formation of condensate will worsch, which will reduce the service life of the material and significantly reduce its heat shield properties. The enclosing design will be wrapped, which will lead to insulation ineffectiveness and can cause its premature destruction.

Types of designs

Typical solutions of the device of layered masonry can be divided into two types: with air gap and without it.

The air gap device allows you to more effectively remove moisture from the design, since excess moisture from the carrier wall and the insulation will immediately go into the atmosphere. At the same time, the air gap increases the total thickness of the walls, and, consequently, the foundation.

Insulation inside wall masonry

To one degree or another, the package of stereos is relevant for layered masonry with the insulation of any type.

The insulation of the construction of mineral wool is the most preferred. In this case, it becomes possible to arrange an air gap between the insulation and the outer wall for better output of moisture from the carrier wall and insulation.

For layered masonments should be applied semi-rigid mineral wool slab insulation. This will allow, on the one hand, well fill out all defects in the masonry, create a solid layer of thermal insulation (the plates can be slightly "clad", avoiding the gaps). On the other hand, such plates will maintain geometric integrity (not to give shrinkage) throughout the service life.

Certain difficulties in the use of polystyrene foam in layered madges are caused by low vapor permeability of this material.

Three-layer brickwork with insulation

  1. Inner part of the brick wall
  2. Mineral wool
  3. Outdoor brick wall
  4. Communication

The traditional material for the inside of the walls is a full-length red ceramic brick. The masonry is usually performed on a cement-sand solution in 1.5-2 bricks (380-510 mm). The outer wall is usually performed from a facial brick with a thickness of 120 mm (in the Pollipich).

Production

In the case of a system of a system with an air gap 2-5 cm, it is used for its ventilation (holes) at the bottom and upper parts of the wall, through which a vapor moisture is removed out. The size of such holes is taken at the rate of 75 cm 2 by 20 m 2 of the wall surface.

The upper ventilation products are located in the eaves, the bottom - the basements. In this case, the lower holes are intended not only for ventilation, but also for water removal.

  1. Air gap 2 cm
  2. Lower building
  3. Top of the building

To carry out the interlayer ventilation in the lower part of the walls, a slit brick, laid on the edge, is installed, or in the lower part of the walls, the brick is not close to each other, and not some distance from each other, and the resulting clearance is not filled with a masonry solution.

Installing connections

The inner and outer parts of the three-layer brick wall are associated with each other with special mortgages - connections. They are performed from fiberglass, basaltoplastic or steel reinforcement with a diameter of 4.5-6 mm. It is preferable to use bonds from fiberglass or basaltoplastic due to greater thermal conductivity of steel ties.

These links also perform the function of fasteners of insulation plates (insulation simply
Put on them). They are installed in the process of masonry into the bearing wall to depth
6-9 cm in 60 cm increments horizontally and 50 cm vertically based on an average of 4 pins on
1 m 2.

To ensure a uniform ventilated gap throughout the insulation area, locking washers are fixed on the rods.

Often instead of special links use curved reinforcement rods. In addition to the links, the outer and the inner wall of the masonry can be born with a steel reinforcing mesh laid after 60 cm vertically. At the same time, an additional mechanical mounting of the plates is used for the air gap device.

The insulation plates are installed with the dressing of the seams close to each other so that there are no cracks and gaps between the individual plates. At the corners of the building creates a gearboard of the plates to avoid the formation of cold bridges.

Masonry technology with insulation

  • Laying of the facing layer to the level of connections
  • Installation of the thermal insulating layer so that it is the top of it above the facing layer by 5-10 cm
  • Laying of the carrier layer to the next level of ties
  • Installing connections, spinning them through insulation
  • if the horizontal seams of the carrier and facing layers of the walls, in which connections are set, do not coincide more than 2 cm in the carrier layer of brick masonry, the links are placed in the vertical seam

  • Laying for one row of bricks in the carrier part of the wall and facing layer

Montage sequence
(Alternative option)