How to properly insulate the floor of the 2nd floor. Insulation of the second floor - capitoshka_a - LJ. Scheme for the implementation of the attic "warm pie"

Attic insulation from the inside has its own characteristics, this is due to the specifics of the room. An attic space with a complex structure and microclimate requires a competent approach to organizing a heat-insulating layer in order to avoid cold bridges, condensation and wetting of the insulation, as a result, fungi, mold, and freezing.

In the article we present step by step instructions, how to properly insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands, we will analyze what materials are best to use, how to calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation.

The scheme of insulation of the attic floor

General rules - how to insulate the attic floor

Insulation of the attic floor is a whole range of measures to make the room comfortable for living: it does not heat up in the summer and does not get cold in the winter, and the relative humidity does not exceed the norm. Each part of the attic floor: floor, ceiling, slopes, fronts, is insulated according to its own technology. Here it is important to observe a few basic rules:

The thickness of the insulation for the attic is 100-200 mm, which directly depends on the type of thermal insulation, the climate in the region and the choice of materials for the supporting structures of the attic floor. It is better to put 2 layers of 100 mm. It is desirable to select environmentally friendly, lightweight, non-flammable.
Waterproofing is laid on top of thermal insulation, protects against condensate and precipitation, does not allow moisture to get inside the insulation from the roof side. This is a very important stage in the attic floor insulation, which ensures the reliability and long service life of thermal insulation, otherwise, the accumulation of moisture inside the materials will lead to their destruction and freezing of the room. For the attic floor, the following types of waterproofing films are used: superdiffusion breathable, diffusion, anti-condensate.
Vapor barrier in the insulation of the attic floor provides good air exchange, ventilation of the cake, and prevents the penetration of water vapor from the room into the materials.

Tip: On the attic floor, in addition to insulation, it is recommended to organize a ventilation system in order to ensure the necessary inflow of fresh air and the outflow of exhausted, stagnant air, which will help to avoid dampness and mustiness of the room.

We offer useful tips on how to insulate the attic with your own hands, a video instruction will help you avoid mistakes when insulating the floor under the roof.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic from the inside takes place in several stages: floor, ceiling, if any, slopes, fronts. The thermal insulation of each structural element of the attic floor has its own technological features, then we will deal in detail with the nuances of insulation.

The photo shows an example of how to make competent insulation of the attic floor

Attic floor insulation

The floor on the attic floor is essentially an interfloor overlap that separates the lower rooms from the roof. Accordingly, here are the main requirements for heat-insulating materials: light, but with effective heat saving, vapor-permeable, with good sound insulation.

Floor insulation depends on design features overlap. If this concrete slab, it is advisable to organize a warm floor and perform a screed. Don't forget to stick around the perimeter damper tape to allow natural expansion of materials. If the screed is more than 20 mm, it must be reinforced.

But more often, lags are arranged here, therefore, floor insulation is performed according to the following algorithm:

we process the draft floor with antiseptics, 2 times;
install waterproofing, suitable thick polyethylene film, roofing material sometimes bituminous mastic, especially at the wall / floor junction, overlapping joints of 100-150 mm, it is recommended to glue with adhesive tape or weld with a soldering iron;
we lay a vapor barrier membrane, glassine, isospan are relevant here, we attach to the logs with a stapler, overlap joints;
we put a heater between the lag: sheet of your choice, mineral wool, sawdust, bulk expanded clay, spraying with polyurethane foam, etc.
close the insulation with the upper vapor barrier layer;
we lay the subfloor: screed or wood flooring, which is best done with an air gap - a crate of bars is stuffed perpendicular to the logs, treatment with antiseptics and fire-fighting preparations is required;
floor finishing.

Important: The edges of the material for hydro- and vapor barrier should go on the wall by 100-150 mm.

Floor insulation on the logs on the attic floor

Ceiling insulation

The ceiling in the attic floor is extremely rare, but if you are faced with just such a design option, then it also needs to be insulated. To begin with, a vapor barrier film is stretched, at a height of 150-250 mm higher than you plan to make the ceiling. Further, it is necessary to assemble a crate from bars or a galvanized metal profile, the optimal distance between the longitudinal profile is 500-600 mm, while the transverse one is fixed every 400-500 mm. If there are transverse beams on the attic floor under the ceiling, then the material for insulation can be placed on them.

Insulation is laid inside the crate, soft plates are relevant here, which are insignificant in weight, for example, mineral wool. It must be pushed between the crate, leveled, fit tightly the joints between the plates. A vapor barrier membrane is stuffed over the frame, which will protect the insulation from moisture from the room. After that, the ceiling is hemmed with sheet material: drywall, OSB, chipboard, plywood or clapboard, blockhouse, timber, the choice depends on the style of the room.

Lathing of the ceiling, slope and gable of the attic floor for subsequent insulation

How best to insulate the walls of the floor under the roof

The walls of the attic floor can be divided into lateral (a small flat area that turns into a roof slope) and pediments - end bearing structures. The order of the layers of thermal insulation does not change here, but the insulation has its own installation features. At the first stage, waterproofing is stuffed, it is better to fix it with bars 25-50 mm thick in order to leave a technological gap between the walls (roof) and the insulation.

Good to know: If the roof of the attic floor is made of wavy material, then a ventilation gap of 25 mm is sufficient, if it is made of smooth, then it is recommended to leave a gap of 50 mm.

Insulation sheets are laid on top of the bars so that the attic is not cold, it is recommended to use 2 layers of thermal insulation, each 100 mm. It is advisable to do the insulation of the walls of the floor using a combined method. The first row of thermal insulation is laid tightly between the rafters or gable beams. We cut the sheets to size and push.

We also leave a ventilation gap between the layers of insulation, if the rafters are thinner, then the bars are additionally stuffed on them, and we already put the second layer on them. The sheets should fit tightly to each other, it is desirable to glue the gaps on top with adhesive tape. Then we cover everything with a vapor barrier, for the insulation of the walls of the attic floor, a foil membrane is optimal, with the metallized side inside the room. We nail it with a stapler, glue the joints and you can sheathe the attic floor with a finish.

Insulation of the gable of the attic floor

What insulation to choose for the attic

If you choose which insulation is best for the attic, then here you need to provide several criteria at once: resistance to physical, mechanical and chemical influences, environmental friendliness, fire safety, material weight, heat capacity, installation method and the financial side of the issue. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of several popular materials for insulating the attic floor.

Materials for floor insulation under a sloping roof

Important: For high-quality insulation of the attic floor, it is recommended to use heaters with a thermal conductivity coefficient below 0.05 W / m * K.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation, video, what are the advantages of thermal insulation with rockwool material.

Attic foam insulation is budgetary, easy to install, so the material is very popular for thermal insulation. Of the shortcomings - low vapor permeability and flammability. Over time, when the truss system dries out, the insulation of the attic with foam plastic is reduced to nothing, reviews indicate that gaps appear between the sheets and beams, and as a result, drafts.

Watch the video on how the attic is insulated with foam plastic, the video demonstrates step by step process installation of thermal insulation.

Expanded polystyrene is a more advanced material compared to polystyrene, the plates are easy to use, they are not afraid of moisture and rodents, the joints between the sheets are very tight, which avoids cold bridges. But extruded polystyrene foam, like polystyrene, is deformed when exposed to ultraviolet radiation, it is combustible, so they are not recommended to insulate the attic floors of a wooden house.

The video tells in detail how to insulate the attic, the video will help to properly perform thermal insulation.

If you ask a question to specialists, the better it is to insulate the attic from the inside, then many of them will advise spraying PPU. Of course, one cannot do without special technology and equipment, but the thermal insulation is strong, durable, without joints. This is a kind of thermos that provides a comfortable indoor climate. Insulation of the attic with polyurethane foam, the reviews of the physical and mechanical properties of which are the best, also has significant drawbacks, such a pie is afraid of esters, high temperature acids.

Watch the work of specialists on how the attic is insulated, the video demonstrates in detail the method of spraying.

Insulation of the attic floor with stone (basalt) mineral wool meets all the standards of competent thermal insulation. Mineral wool is moisture resistant, non-combustible, has high soundproofing characteristics, which is especially important if the roof is made of “noisy” material. The material is elastic, easy to install, expands, fills the voids between the beams and holds well even on sloped areas.

Ecowool

Ecowool is specially treated cellulose, environmentally friendly, has high heat and noise insulation, vapor permeability, resistance to dampness, fire resistance, harmful microorganisms do not start in it - ideal for warming the attic floor. The material is crushed, in appearance it resembles flakes, which are applied to the surface using special equipment, which makes it difficult to install with your own hands. Attic insulation with ecowool is a seamless technology that allows you to make high-quality thermal insulation and maintain a comfortable temperature even on an unheated attic floor.

Of course, 100-200 mm of insulation is the recommended layer thickness. The real one may differ, the calculation is recommended to be done for each region and directly depends on the type of load-bearing walls and on the thermal conductivity of the insulation. Competent warming significantly reduces energy costs for heating and air conditioning the house.

science-mastera.ru

How to insulate the attic floor and get rid of condensate under the roof?

The process of creating an attic in one-story house is quite simple and practically does not differ from insulation ordinary walls building. To create a room with insulated walls, several types of material will be required, with the help of which it will be supported optimum temperature inside the house.

How to get rid of condensation under the roof?

If the partitions on the second floor have already been built, then a further process of warming the partition space is carried out. Due to the fact that the roof does not have a waterproofing film, the problem with excess condensate can be solved by providing additional ventilation, which will help to quickly dry the surface of the rafters and battens. By creating a ventilated plane, it will be possible to reduce the risk of rotting of the wooden frame of the roof.

To create a hydro-barrier between the second floor and the roof, it is necessary to fix it on wooden frame walls waterproofing film, and then lay the insulation on it. As a heater, it is better to use mineral wool, which comes with special plates. One layer of such a slab can compensate for 63 cm of ordinary masonry. To organize a good insulated area, it is necessary to lay a mineral slab in two layers, alternating them so that a cold bridge is not created. Then the vapor barrier film is fixed. There must be a space of at least 5 cm between the vapor barrier film and the insulation. Such a precaution is necessary for better air ventilation in the inter-wall space.

In the photo - laying the mineral plate and waterproofing materials

The ventilation of the wall is necessary so that the insulation does not become damp from excessive moisture, which will appear from the condensate formed on the outer wall of the vapor barrier.

What materials can be used?

To create a space between two materials, it is better to use a regular beam, 5 by 5 in size. It is inexpensive and can be easily purchased on the construction market. Yes, and the walls themselves, if necessary, can be made of timber, which is a very convenient and economical solution.

Due to the rigid binding with screws to the roof and to the ceiling of the first floor, a fairly solid structure will be created that does not need additional spacers.

The wall frame on both sides can be lined with any comfortable material. How a better option is applied laminated chipboard. The following advantages of its use can be distinguished:

Ensuring sufficient structural strength;
Ease of attachment due to large sizes;
A screw can be easily wrapped in such a coating, which is a convenient addition if there is a need to hang a shelf or a picture.

The outer gable sides are often lined with clapboard or plastic panels, but if desired, if the load-bearing wall allows, you can make a gable of brick or gas blocks.

The interfloor overlap is insulated with a conventional isover in two layers: they are shifted alternately, creating a seamless connection. Two layers of isover will be enough to create good insulation. If desired, the edges of the material can be sprinkled with sawdust, which will prevent cold air from entering the ends of the overlap. You can read more about attic insulation here.

ukroem.ru

How and how to insulate the attic

Today, many people who decide to build private house away from large, noisy and gassed cities, they choose a house project with an attic. This option seems to them very attractive and convenient - with the saving of building materials and a minimum of additional costs, you can significantly increase the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe building. In fact, you can get, if not a full-fledged second floor, then at least half of it.

An example of attic insulation

Often, homeowners plan to arrange an office, bedroom or guest room in the attic. Of course, this is a very good decision. But at the same time, it is worth remembering that if you want to make the attic comfortable and livable, you will have to perform a whole range of work to insulate it from the inside. These are not just words.

The attic has a much larger area of contact with the external environment than any other room in the house. In addition, it does not have a thermal cushion, due to which heat loss increases significantly. So if you want to use the attic floor for arranging residential premises, you will have to insulate the attic with high quality.

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The main difficulties of insulation

If you decide to insulate the attic with your own hands, then you will probably encounter a number of problems that you didn’t even know about until you took on this difficult job.

Technical scheme of attic insulation

First of all, it is worth noting that the configuration of the roof of most attics is very different from the usual parallelepiped. It will be necessary to carry out the installation of insulation on an inclined surface, because of which the complexity of the work increases significantly.

In addition, it will be necessary to insulate not only two slopes (at least), but also two gables. You should not even think that they can be left without insulation or pay less attention to them due to the smaller area. With this approach, all efforts can go to waste - which means that it is better not to start work, wasting money, effort and time.

Do not forget that any roofing material that effectively isolates the room from atmospheric moisture will not release moisture from the room.

And high humidity in a living room or office negatively affects both the well-being of the inhabitants and the condition of the room - mold, fungus and other troubles may appear.

To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to ensure high-quality ventilation throughout the attic and each room. If you are equipping a living space or an office, you should definitely equip several windows during construction - you can right in the roof.

This will not only make it easy to solve the problem of fresh air and normalization of humidity, but also provide good natural lighting.

If you decide to place a sauna, bathroom or toilet in the attic, you will have to work on a ventilation shaft through which air can escape high humidity.

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What material to choose for insulation

One of the most important issues that will have to be resolved before starting roof insulation is the choice of material. Today, construction stores can offer a huge range of various thermal insulation materials.

But they all have certain advantages and disadvantages. It is very important to know about both the former and the latter in order to choose material that will not disappoint you in the future.

Mineral wool or mineral wool. is one of the most democratic and convenient options. It is no coincidence that attic insulation with mineral wool is one of the most demanded services in this area. One of the main advantages of this material is the ease of installation. Having broken the roof and walls of the attic into sections that need to be insulated, simply divide the existing thermal insulation material into pieces, each of which is 1-2 centimeters larger than the area you plan to insulate. Before installation, slightly (precisely slightly, so that the material does not lose its porosity, and with it its thermal insulation qualities), squeeze the mineral wool and install it in the right place.
Elastic mineral wool will straighten itself out and easily take up the entire volume provided, firmly fixing in place. The only disadvantage of this material is hydrophobicity. The material gets wet easily, after which its thermal insulation characteristics rapidly decrease.
Styrofoam. Very easy to install, affordable and cheap material. It will be very easy to install almost weightless plates on any surfaces. Due to the scanty weight, the material will not be able to significantly change the load on the roof structure. Absolutely not afraid of moisture. Alas, if you use foam to insulate the attic, it is worth remembering that mice pose a serious danger to this material. They gnaw through a lot of moves in it, thereby reducing durability and efficiency.
Styrofoam. This material also has a minimum weight, and is most often produced in the form of plates, which greatly simplifies the insulation of the attic roof. Most often, the material is laid directly on the truss system, forming a gap sufficient for ventilation that appears between the roof and the insulation. Its main disadvantage is the impossibility of operation at high humidity. Expanded polystyrene quickly absorbs moisture, after which it can begin to rot, releasing a very unpleasant chemical odor. Therefore, very few people prefer to insulate their attic with polystyrene foam.
Polyurethane foam. One of the most popular thermal insulation materials today. Provides excellent thermal insulation. It has a relatively low weight, which eliminates the need to additionally strengthen the roof structure.
Attic blowing with polyurethane foam
When applied, it forms a single, monolithic plate that does not have joints and gaps, which usually account for a large part of heat loss. It is important that if you insulate the roof with polyurethane foam, you do not have to spend time and money on installing a vapor barrier layer that would protect the thermal insulation material from condensate - it is not at all afraid of moisture. The only downside is the inability to install manually. Polyurethane foam is applied using a special installation. So, you will have to invite a specialist to do all the work for you. Of course, because of this, the cost of insulation increases significantly.
Ecowool. A very successful material with low weight and low thermal conductivity. A great choice for people who don't want complex chemical materials to build their home.
Ecowool is a completely environmentally friendly material, as its name suggests. Its properties are similar to wood, and it contains a special antiseptic that protects both the ecowool itself and the wood with which it will come into contact against the appearance of mold and rot. It is applied in one layer, like polyurethane foam, forming a continuous cover, which, even after many years of operation, does not sag and does not lose its excellent characteristics. But having decided to use ecowool, do not forget to install a false ceiling, as well as a crate to which the vapor barrier material will be attached. Ecowool must be applied using special equipment. Do not forget also that she does not tolerate high humidity air.
Penoplex. In a number of characteristics, it is similar to polystyrene (they are even made from the same raw material - polystyrene - although different methods). It is durable, provides high-quality thermal insulation, is easy to install and works well in high humidity. Alas, foam, as well as foam, never refuse to eat mice. In addition, with prolonged exposure to the sun, the penoplex begins to crumble. Therefore, it is necessary to protect it not only from mice, but also from sunlight.
foil materials. Their principle of operation is fundamentally different from most recognized thermal insulation materials. If the latter simply do not let the cold through and do not release heat, then foil heat insulators reflect heat into the room. A serious plus is the fact that this material can be used as a vapor barrier, thanks to which you will save a lot of money. The only negative is the relatively high cost and low popularity among potential users.
an example of attic insulation with foil material

Now that you know all about the basic types thermal insulation material and you can choose the one that will be for you best solution, you can proceed to the next step - warming the attic with your own hands.

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Getting Started

So, you have already chosen the appropriate material with which the attic floor will be insulated, and purchased it in enough. Now you need to stock up on the appropriate tools:

Scissors;
Long knife;
Metal rail;
Hacksaw;
Roulette;
Hammer with rubber tip.

However, in many respects the set of tools depends on what material you have chosen. For example, for mineral wool scissors are better, but the foam is much more convenient to cut with a hacksaw. Methods for installing insulation from polyurethane foam and ecowool will not be considered here - in any case, this work should be carried out by specialists with the appropriate equipment and skills.

First, prepare your work space. Clean the inside of the roof with construction vacuum cleaner or a simple broom - there should be no dust, mold, cobwebs and other foreign objects that can stimulate the appearance of rot. good decision will process wooden rafters special antibiotics that prevent the formation of mold and mildew - they are freely sold in many hardware stores.

Now you can start warming the ceiling. Measure the distance between the rafters and cut the thermal insulation material into pieces of the appropriate size.

Some builders prefer to install sheet material directly on top of the rafters, explaining this by reducing the number of seams and, accordingly, better thermal insulation.

But if you do all the work carefully and accurately, the seams will be practically absent anyway. But installing the material between the rafters, and not on top, will save some useful space in the attic.

You just need to cut the foam or foam in such pieces that they fit snugly into the gap between the rafters. Mineral wool, as mentioned above, can be cut into slightly larger pieces, which are slightly compressed and placed in the appropriate places.

If the material is afraid of moisture, a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of it. To do this, you can use ordinary construction polyethylene - it is large enough in size, dense and durable to do its job well and not cause you the slightest problem in the future. The material should cover not only the entire roof and wall, but also fall a little to the floor to provide better vapor barrier. Polyethylene waste will be minimal, but reliability will increase significantly.

It is best to fix the vapor barrier with a construction stapler. Staples should securely fix the polyethylene on the rafters, preferably with a small step (10-15 cm). The vapor barrier sheets must be overlapped, and then securely sealed with adhesive tape (ordinary wide adhesive tape will do) to prevent moisture from entering under the sheets.

Additional strips are laid on top of the finished vapor barrier. Remember that you need to lay them across the rafters. They have a double meaning. On the one hand, they take on the load from the heat-insulating material if it accidentally moves out during operation.

On the other hand, if interior decoration the attic will use drywall or other sheet material, then the steel profile to which it will be attached is screwed with screws precisely to the additional planks. In this case, the film is not damaged and guarantees high level vapor barrier.

You can see for yourself - the attic insulation technology is quite simple. Each person, even without specialized skills and tools, can easily cope with this work. Now you, knowing how all this is done, can easily do the work when you see fit, without attracting specialists for this and without spending extra money.

Today, one-story houses are rarely built of wood. Basically, preference is given to two-story spacious buildings, in which there is a lot of living space, and a large family can freely accommodate. At the finishing stage, the owners often face the question of how to insulate the second floor of a wooden house. And he, by no means, is idle, since the process of thermal insulation of the 2nd floor depends on many factors. In particular, this is influenced by the design features of a log house, for example, a heated attic or an unheated attic can be located above the top floor. Thermal insulation in these two cases will be carried out differently. And there can be many such nuances. Therefore, in the article we will analyze the main issues that arise when insulating this part of the house, and describe in detail the process itself.

This indicator plays a decisive role in determining the work plan for thermal insulation of the second floor in a private house. Structurally, the room can be:

A full-fledged second floor, above which there is an unheated attic or living room.
Attic, which is located directly under the roof.

In each case, the principle of insulation will be different. The main difference between the attic and full floor, this is the proximity of the roof, so the main task of insulation is to keep the heat in the room.

It should be emphasized that the thermal insulation of the second floor must be carried out not only inside, but also outside the house. When insulating a full-fledged floor, you can not equip a vapor barrier layer; for an attic, vapor barrier is mandatory. As a heater, expanded polystyrene, mineral wool or expanded clay are most often used.

Insulation of the second floor in a house made of timber

The work consists of three stages:

thermal insulation interfloor overlap.
Insulation of the attic of the house.

It is more convenient to carry out work from the side of the upper floor, the material will be laid on the panels, which are the ceiling of the first floor.

In order for the insulation to turn out to be of high quality and effective, it is necessary to dismantle the floor of the second floor.
The next stage is the laying of a vapor barrier layer. We wrote above that the vapor barrier of the second floor can be omitted, but in order to prevent the accumulation of condensate in the insulation and extend its service life, it is best to lay a vapor barrier film on the shields and beams.
Further, the space between the beams is filled with thermal insulation, the material is laid very tightly so that there are no gaps and gaps between the plates and the ceiling. If expanded clay is used, then all cavities are filled with granules, and then they are well leveled.
Then the insulation is covered with a waterproof film, on which a wooden floor is laid.

If thermal insulation cannot be done from the side of the second floor, then work is carried out from below in the following sequence:

The ceiling of the first floor is dismantled.
Waterproofing is attached to the floors with a stapler.
Insulating mats are laid between the beams and fixed with wooden slats.
The structure is closed with a vapor barrier film, which is fixed with a stapler.
A ceiling covering is mounted, it can be drywall, chipboard, plywood sheets, etc.

Usually perform. Internal insulation do in cases where for some reason the work cannot be done outside.

It should be noted the disadvantages of insulation from the inside of the house:

the useful area of the room is reduced;
the facade remains cold, which causes some cooling of the house;
condensation may appear between the wall and the insulation and, as a result, mold may form.

With strict adherence to the technology of work, Negative consequences can be minimized.

Stages of work:

First, the cracks are caulked with natural materials, and then the wood is treated with antiseptic impregnations.
Horizontal rails 20 mm thick are mounted.
The waterproofing film is laid. It needs to be fastened tightly to the rails.
Installed vertical racks counterlattices. The distance between the slats should be slightly less than the width of the insulation boards.
Thermal insulation is laid in the space between the vertical slats.
A vapor barrier layer is laid over the insulating material.
Installation of decorative trim.

Thermal insulation is carried out in the following sequence:

Before you insulate the attic, you need in the attic, which will become an additional barrier to the exit of heat from the house and prevent condensation from entering the insulation. To do this, the surface is covered vapor barrier membrane. The film must completely cover the entire floor area. The canvases are placed on top of each other with a small margin and glued together with adhesive tape. After that, they are fixed to the floor boards with a construction stapler.
Insulation is being installed, the method is selected depending on the selected material. If slab insulation is used (mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam), it is laid in dense layers between the floor beams. Ecowool is applied by spraying with a machine high pressure, all cavities must be well filled. Expanded clay is poured in a thick layer on the floor and leveled.
Floor beams can become cold bridges to the house, so they also need to be insulated. To do this, a thin insulating material is laid on them.
From above, the thermal insulation is again covered with a vapor barrier film, which, like the first time, is overlapped. The membrane is fixed to the beams with counter rails.
The finishing stage is the flooring of the covering from boards or plywood.

Attic insulation

Unlike a cold attic, the thermal insulation of which is done solely to minimize heat loss through the roof, the attic is a full-fledged living room, so the task is to insulate the room so that you can live in it.

A vapor barrier material is laid on wooden beams, the canvases are overlapped with each other with a margin of 20-25 cm.
On the vapor barrier from the side of the lower floor, boards are stuffed onto the beams, which will serve as the black floor of the attic and the basis for the ceiling of the second floor.
Expanded clay of fine fraction is poured between the floors, which will act as a heater and at the same time soundproof the room.
Another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the expanded clay, the film is fixed to the beams with the help of rails.
Bars are mounted perpendicular to the beam ceilings, the distance between them should be equal to the width of the selected insulation.
Between the bars, plates of insulating material are laid, bringing them as close as possible to each other. A vapor barrier layer is laid on top.
If ecowool is used as thermal insulation, instead of wooden bars, a farm is made of metal profiles. Mounting metal frame and ecowool insulation - work that is difficult to do on your own. To do this, you need to have professional equipment and devices, so such thermal insulation is usually not done independently, but entrusted to specialists.
Boards or thick plywood are laid on top of the insulation cake, which are attached to wooden bars.

Insulation of the ceiling and walls of the attic floor

The method of warming these elements depends on the design features of the room. If the attic roof reaches the floor, the ceiling is insulated as follows:

From the floor itself, to the ridge, waterproofing is laid. The film must cover the entire surface so that it does not form open spaces, it is necessary to impose canvases on each other. The material is fixed on the rafters with a stapler.
A crate is made of wooden slats, which are attached to the beams with a distance of 50-60 cm from each other.
A heater is laid between the laths of the crate, its thickness should correspond to the width of the log. Plates are laid from the bottom of the room, moving to the top.
From above, the cake is closed with a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the crate with thin slats, and the joints between the canvases are additionally glued with adhesive tape.
Finishing is mounted to the crate finishing material, for example, lining or decorative panels.

If the ceiling and walls of the attic are separate parts of the room, then the walls are insulated as follows.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

Some time ago, I completed an order for attic insulation for winter residence. While doing the work, I thought that the technology I used is quite simple and even an unprepared person can make thermal insulation with their own hands from the inside.

In today's material I will tell you what is better and how to properly insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands. This guide will help you avoid the same mistakes that I had to make in the beginning of my career as a builder.

I assure you that at the end of the work, the attic floor of a wooden house will turn from a useless trash storage into a cozy and comfortable room, for which all your household members will fight to live.

Features and methods of insulation of the attic room

Before talking about ways to insulate the under-roof space from the inside, I want to note that this is a must, even if you are not going to live in a house in the winter. The fact is that the attic, due to its location, is very warm by the sun in the summer, so without a reliable insulating layer, the temperature inside will be uncomfortable (or you will have to install a very powerful air conditioner).

If you have already insulated ordinary living quarters and think that you know how to insulate the attic, I have to disappoint you. The thermal insulation of a room under the roof (not an ordinary room on the second floor, namely the attic) has some features that I simply have to mention:

Geometry attic space follows contours pitched roof, so it is far from a standard cube or parallelepiped. Insulation will have to be installed on inclined surfaces, so the choice of heat-insulating material will have to be approached with great care. For example, the use of too soft and flexible products is completely excluded.
The roof truss system and roofing are always made of lightweight materials so as not to exert a large load on bearing walls Houses. Consequently, the heat-insulating cake should weigh as much as to only slightly weight the structure, otherwise the roof may collapse with a significant snow load.
In addition to the roof slopes, the attic has two more gables and a floor (it is also an attic floor). If you do not perform thermal insulation of these surfaces, all efforts to install insulation in the rafters will not lead to any significant result.

Roofing material, no matter how reliable it may be, can pass atmospheric moisture, which, in turn, can damage the insulation layer or significantly reduce it. specifications. Therefore, during installation, it is necessary to reliably protect the thermal insulation from moisture.
When buildings catch fire, the fire usually moves to the upper part of the dwelling, where the attic is located. Therefore, to ensure the possibility of evacuating people from this room for thermal insulation, I personally recommend using non-combustible or poorly flammable heaters. After all, the matter is further aggravated by the fact that the roof truss system is made of wood, which cannot be classified as NG.
And last but not least, environmental friendliness. Care must be taken to ensure that the insulation does not pose a danger to people living in the attic, regardless of the conditions of its operation - heating, moistening, freezing, and so on.

First, let's decide on the method of thermal insulation. There are two options:

Insulation of attic walls. This method is resorted to in the case when the roof slopes are not the walls of the attic. The role of the latter is played by additional partitions made of wood, drywall, plywood, and so on, which should be insulated.
The advantage of this method is the presence of additional ventilated space under the roof. Minus - decrease usable area premises.

Insulation of roof slopes. In this case, the heat insulator is installed in the truss system, after which you can divide the spacious attic with thin partitions, without worrying about cold or heat. The advantage is that the entire under-roof space will be insulated. And with the help of partitions, you can divide it into several separate rooms, arranging an additional pantry in the attic room.

I prefer the second method of insulation, so it will be discussed further.

Choice of materials and tools

It's time to decide how to insulate the attic room from the inside. To do this, you can use expanded polystyrene, expanded clay, polyurethane foam, ecowool and many other heat insulators that domestic and foreign industries offer to purchase.

But I am insulating the attic with basalt wool. This material, in my opinion, the best way meets the requirements for the thermal insulation layer of such a room.

I will briefly list the most important advantages of basalt mats:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The material retains heat indoors so well that for effective thermal insulation it is enough to install a layer 10 cm thick.
Hygroscopicity	Basalt fibers do not absorb water and have hydrophobic properties, so moisture that has got inside is quickly removed through the gaps without reducing the operational properties of the material.
Vapor permeability	The material does not prevent air infiltration, normalizing the humidity in the attic and extending the life of wooden parts.
Incombustibility	Basalt wool does not ignite in a fire and contributes to the extinction of the flame, giving time for the evacuation of people or the elimination of the source of ignition.

I could talk about the advantages of mineral wool for a long time, but this is not the topic of today's article. Therefore, he simply noted the better it is to insulate the attic from the inside.

I prefer to use TechnoNIKOL Technolight Extra basalt mats 10 cm thick, 120 by 60 cm in size. It is not advisable to buy a denser material, since it will not experience load between the rafters.

It is very important to pay attention to the dimensions of the material. I chose TechnoNikol mats because their width is 60 cm, namely, this is the distance between adjacent rafters in the case I am describing.

In addition to direct thermal insulation, other materials are also needed:

Wooden bars with a section of 30 by 50 mm, with the help of which a counter-lattice will be formed for ventilation gaps that help remove moisture.
Super diffuse vapor permeable hydro- and windproof membrane. These films are of especially high quality from Strotex and Juta, so I recommend buying them.
Penofol. A thermal reflective material that I'm going to use in place of the standard vapor barrier film that keeps the mineral wool from getting wet from inside the room.

Antiseptic primer. She needs to process the roof trusses to prevent the appearance of mold and fungus. You can buy a composition with fire retardants, thereby increasing the fire safety of the building.
OSB boards. They will be needed to construct the crate, on which flexible tiles are laid on one side and eurolining on the other. If you are going to use other materials, then a solid crate may not be needed.
Polyurethane mounting foam. Useful for sealing joints between mineral mats.
U-shaped perforated brackets for mounting galvanized lathing. For me, they will hold the installed mineral mats in place until they are sewn up. decorative material.

Well, now you can safely move on to how to insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands.

Arrangement of insulation

The whole process of warming can be conditionally divided into several steps:

So, I will explain how to do the work correctly with my own hands in each of the mentioned stages.

Step 1 - Laying waterproofing and roofing material

Let's start with the installation of the waterproofing membrane, since it is installed outside the room before fixing the roofing. Only in this way can the insulating layer be reliably protected from the ingress of atmospheric moisture into it.

I must say right away that the entire roof truss system in the case I am describing was installed. However, the roofing material and the crate on it have not yet been laid.

The process consists of the following steps:

I roll out the first layer of hydro- and windproof membrane. You need to start work from the bottom of the roof slope, gradually moving up. The membrane is fixed with staples and a construction stapler or wide-head nails. It is necessary to install the film not in tension, but with a slight sag (about 2 cm per meter), so that when the air temperature decreases, it does not tear.

I lay the second and subsequent sheets of waterproofing film. You need to act in the same way as in the previous paragraph. But there is one point here. The edge of the upper membrane must overlap the edge of the lower one by 10 cm to ensure complete impermeability to moisture.

I seal the seams of the membrane. For this, adhesive tape is used. It just needs to be glued to the joints of adjacent waterproofing membranes.
I install a control panel. Her role is played wooden blocks, which are fixed with self-tapping screws over the waterproofing membrane on the rafters. Previously, I recommend impregnating them with an antiseptic and flame retardant in order to extend the life of the roof structure.
I fix the boards of the additional crate. They are installed perpendicular to the rafters and fastened with self-tapping screws to the counter-bar. The step between adjacent parts is about 40 cm.

I install OSB base plates. They are attached to the boards with self-tapping screws. Here it is necessary to monitor the length of the fastening fittings so that too long screws do not tear the hydro- and windproof membrane located below.

Installing a flexible roof To do this, a lining carpet is glued to the slabs, after which shingles of flexible tiles are fixed on it.

If you insulate the attic with already finished roof, then the waterproofing membrane will have to be installed from the inside. This method has two disadvantages:

the labor intensity of the work being carried out increases;
waterproofing film will not protect the wooden roof trusses.

It is necessary to fix and seal the film so that it wraps around the rafters and adheres to the roofing sheathing. Thus, peculiar baths are formed, in which insulating material will be invested.

But before that, it is necessary to prepare the under-roof space for the installation of mineral mats.

Step 2 - Preparing the truss system

The space under the roof, namely the truss system, is being prepared for thermal insulation:

I clean wooden parts from dust and debris, remove objects that interfere with the installation of mineral mats. It is best to clean the rafters with a vacuum cleaner, which will remove dust, sawdust and shavings left after installation. roofing material. You should also check if the sharp ends of screws, nails, and so on do not stick out from somewhere. They can cause injury or damage insulation materials.

I install engineering communications and insulate them. Ventilation and chimney pipes can be installed on the roof, as well as electrical wiring necessary for connecting household appliances in the attic room:
- Ventilation pipes, if they are laid in the non-insulated part of the attic, must be thermally insulated with mineral wool or foam shells.
- For chimney a box should be designed to pass through attic floor and roof. They must be filled with heat-insulating material (most often perlite or expanded clay), which will increase the fire safety of the room.
- Electrical wiring should be placed in polymer flexible or rigid cable ducts that will prevent the rafters and insulation layer from igniting in the event of a short circuit.

I prime wooden surfaces. For work, it is better to use a universal composition that has both antiseptic and fire-fighting properties. For example, the composition for wood BS-13 or Fire protection Strazh-2. Apply it to wooden details it is necessary with a roller or sprayer, after processing in two layers with intermediate drying for 3 or 4 hours.

I install U-shaped brackets on side surfaces rafters. It is not necessary to use them, since with the correct installation of the rafters, the mineral mats become tight by surprise. But I'm used to playing it safe, and their acquisition does not hit hard on the budget planned for insulation. But if you use cotton wool in rolls, you can’t do without it.

Step 3 - Installation of thermal insulation

Insulation of the attic from the inside continues. Let's move on to the main part:

I do cutting mats. Mineral wool is cut into the required pieces using sharp knife or files with very fine teeth. If the distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the insulation, there is practically no need to trim.

I install mats between the rafters. To do this, you need to slightly bend the material in the middle, and then insert the insulation in the right place. Having straightened, the basalt mat will take its place and will not fall out of the inclined surface.

I fix the mats with brackets. You just need to bend part of the bracket so that its edge is on the surface of the mat and holds it in place. Instead of brackets, you can use galvanized perforated tapes that are attached directly to the lower edges of the rafters.
I seal the seams of the material with polyurethane mounting foam. Gaps must be filled with a gun. Moreover, act in such a way that the composition is inside the entire gap, and not just on its surface. If you make a mistake at this stage, cold bridges may form at the joints, which will reduce the effectiveness of insulation.

To increase the reliability of the heat-insulating layer, you can install not one, but two layers of insulation. Just take mineral mats with a thickness of not 10, but 5 cm. Then the individual layers are installed so that the joints are apart. And cold bridges can not be feared at all, although it is still worth sealing the seams.

Step 4 - Finishing coat

Decorative finishing of the enclosing structures of the attic room is carried out as follows:

I install a heat-reflecting and vapor barrier layer. As you understand, penofol will serve me for this - foamed polyethylene with a reflective layer of polished aluminum foil. It is mounted as follows:
- The first sheet of penofol is installed with a foil layer towards the living quarters, after which it is aimed at the rafters using a construction stapler.
- The second and subsequent sheets of material are installed so that between separate elements there was an overlap of 10 cm.
- The joints of the penofol are glued with double-sided adhesive tape (inside the joint) or metallized tape (which is glued on top of the joint). It is necessary to make sure that a completely homogeneous and sealed layer is formed.
- If the thickness of your rafters is such that the edge of the insulation does not reach the cut of the tree, then penofol must be laid on the surface of mineral wool, fixing it on the side surface of the roof support beams. Otherwise, it may rustle when air passes through the ventilation gap.

I mount the bars of the control battens for arranging the ventilation gap. It is necessary to fasten the planks with self-tapping screws to the rafters on top of the foam. These details create a gap between the finish and the heat-reflecting surface, which is necessary to remove condensed moisture.

Installing OSB boards. They are attached to the counter-lattice with self-tapping screws. Everything is standard here, with the exception of some small nuances:
- It is necessary to install the sheets so that at the edges (at the gables and the floor) there is a gap of 1-2 cm thick. It is necessary to remove excess moisture and compensate for possible changes in the size of the material.
- The seams between adjacent slabs should be staggered (staggered) and be 2-3 mm thick to avoid warping of the surface during thermal expansion of the base.
- It is necessary to fix the plates so that their edges are located on the bars of the counter-lattice. The distance between the screws is no more than 20 cm.

You can later install eurolining or other decorative material on the plates. And we have ahead of the insulation of the gables, which form two of the four walls of the attic room.

Step 5 - Warming the gables

I strongly advise these parts of the attic to be insulated from the outside, using dense mineral wool for this, which can be covered from above. cement plaster. The scheme of work is as follows:

Preparing the surface for work. To do this, you need to clean the surface of the walls from residues mortars, debris, dirt and dust. After that, the following operations are performed:
- Damage repair. If gaps and cracks are found in the masonry, they must be repaired. cement mortar or blow out with mounting foam.
- Surface priming. To do this, you need to take a primer for a brick or (not the one with which you processed the rafters), and then cover the pediments with it in two layers with intermediate drying.

I mount the start profile. This is a perforated galvanized part on which the insulation layer will rest. It is fixed at the bottom of the wall strictly horizontally. If several of these parts are needed, then install them with a small gap to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

I glue the first row of mineral mats. Let me remind you that you need to use dense mineral wool, which is intended for subsequent finishing with cement mortar. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- The surface of mineral wool is pre-reinforced cement glue, which is evenly distributed over the plate with a spatula.

A bead of cement glue is applied to the mineral wool at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. Several lumps of glue are also placed in the middle of the mat so that at least 40% of the sheet surface is covered.
The part is attached to the wall. at the same time, its lower end must be supported on a pre-installed starting profile. Using a water level, it is necessary to check that the basalt mat is installed strictly vertically in all planes.
Behind the first layer, other mats are glued to the wall in the same way. It is necessary to follow the verticals, and that the seams between adjacent parts are minimal.

I glue the second and subsequent rows of mineral mats. There are no differences compared to the procedure described in the previous paragraph. You just need to make sure that the vertical ones go sideways. That is, the seam of the upper row fell in the middle of the insulation sheet of the lower row (as in brickwork).
After the solution hardens, I fix the insulating layer with dowels - “fungi”. They are installed as follows:
- A hole is drilled directly through the mineral mats in the wall using a perforator, the depth of which in brick or concrete should exceed 2 cm.
- A dowel is inserted into the resulting hole, after which the core is installed inside.
- Using a hammer, the core is hammered into the dowel so that its cap is slightly recessed into the surface of the insulation.
- It is not only mineral mats that need to be fixed. "Fungi" should be installed in the seams of the insulating material so that the heat-insulating layer does not come off under load.

I seal the seams of the material. To insulate the joints, polyurethane foam is used, which glues the fibers of the insulation together, preventing the formation of cold bridges at the junctions of adjacent mineral plates. It is necessary to fill the seam with a gun as tightly as possible.
I reinforce the surface of the insulation with an alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh. To do this, mineral mats are covered with a reinforcing compound, after which a mesh is placed on it and pressed into the mortar with a plaster trowel. Then a little more solution is applied on top so as to completely hide the mesh inside.
I do surface finishing. The reinforced insulated surface of the gables is plastered, after which it is decorated with the selected decorative material. In the simplest case, you can simply paint the gable with facade paint.

That's all. Some still resort to thermal insulation of the interfloor ceiling, however, with such powerful insulation that I have described, I consider this procedure unnecessary.

Summary

Now you know how to independently perform the correct insulation of the walls in the attic floor and the floor with your own hands using mineral wool at the lowest cost. However, there are other options.

For example, sprayed polystyrene foam, with which it is easy to carry out thermal insulation of complex areas, including the Mauerlat in a heated attic. You can learn how to spray PPU yourself from the video in this article.

If you have any questions - ask them in the comments!

September 7, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Russian climatic conditions require saving heat in dwellings. All owners of low-rise private houses are trying to solve this problem. Installation of modern interfloor insulation in wooden house can make your home cozy at any time of the year.

Insulation of the second floor of a turnkey wooden house - high quality and inexpensive

In order for the ceiling of the first and the floor of the second floor not to freeze and not to become moldy, it is necessary to install thermal insulation. You can order thermal insulation of the house from the inside and outside at a low price from Yudu specialists - they will help you insulate the house quickly and efficiently. Their services are inexpensive and available to everyone.

Due to the large ceiling area in private homes, significant heat loss can occur. That is why for the thermal insulation of the house from the inside and outside it is necessary to choose high-quality material. To insulate the 2nd floor of a wooden house, it is necessary to use a material that has the following qualities:

low thermal conductivity;
fire resistance;
moisture resistance.

To perform insulation work in a low-rise private house, various materials are used:

mineral wool;
expanded clay;
sawdust with lime.

Mineral wool is laid on the ceiling, in a pre-prepared structure. For warming attic space use sawdust or expanded clay.

Professional insulation of the 2nd floor of the house - installation technology

At the first stage, it is necessary to attach the film to the ceiling using a stapler. If there are no wooden beams on the ceiling and there is nothing to attach the material to, assembly is carried out profile design- mineral wool will be laid there. It is desirable to lay mineral wool in two layers and fix it with self-tapping screws. The layers are glued together with mounting foam.

The final stage of insulation of the 2nd floor - Finishing work. Can be difficult to install spotlights. However, it is easy to solve it if you cut holes in the insulation. Then you need to isolate the cotton wool.

It is also necessary to insulate the second floor. A turnkey thermal insulation device will prevent moisture penetration. For insulation of the second floor, loose or rolled material is used.

After performing these simple operations, you can consider the insulation two-story house completed. Ceiling insulation takes a lot of time and effort. You can save time if you order thermal insulation services from Yudu specialists. Benefits of working with them:

efficient and high-quality performance of work;
individual approach;
low cost;
complex solution of customer problems.

You can find all the necessary information about the prices for the services of Yudu specialists on our website.

The problems associated with thermal insulation in private construction require an open discussion so that the owner can personally figure out how to insulate the second floor of a wooden house.

However, in this article we will focus on attic rooms in buildings various types. So each of our readers will receive useful advice or information for themselves.

How to choose materials for heat and vapor barrier, calculate their consumption and lay them correctly - we understand in stages.

Roof planning and preparation stages

The first thing to take care of when arranging a future attic or attic living space is the height of the ceilings and the ability of the roof to withstand loads from the snow mass.

As for the pitch of the rafters, it will depend on the last characteristic, as well as on the type of roof chosen - for heavy tiles, you should choose a pitch of no more than 80 cm.

Before you insulate the attic floor, you need to equip waterproofing under the roof. This should be done before the roofing material is laid.

There is nothing dangerous in using materials such as roofing material or waterproofing, although they are cheap and outdated. But we recommend choosing modern rolled insulators such as Isospan or anti-condensation films.

During the following waterproofing scheme should be followed:

The material or film is rolled out and attached to the block surface (beam is not thicker than 50 mm). There should be a small gap between the future roof and waterproofing for ventilation needs;
If the roof has already been erected, you will have to put a waterproofing film right inside, on top of the roof sheathing at a distance of 50 mm from it;
The film or other material mounted on the crate cannot have joints on the ridge to allow air masses to circulate;
If the roof has a pitched structure, it is desirable to provide through ventilation from the ridge to the eaves and back.

Scheme of hydro and vapor barrier of the roof

Consider the slope of the roof and the thickness of the air flow associated with it, which can reach 40-50 mm.

Insulation of the under-roof space

When thinking about how to insulate an apartment on the top floor, or a room, take into account the structure of the roof and the location of the building envelope.

So, there may be such elements:

Inclined sections of the ceiling, following the bends of the roof;
Gables and other architectural details;
Low vertical ceilings in attics;
Horizontal attic floors.

Some of these structures will have to be reinforced and strengthened before thermal insulation can be laid. If the distance between the rafters is so large that the width of the insulation sheet is not enough, it will be necessary to equip additional frame structures between them.

If there are no horizontal or vertical mounts, they can also be added.

Insulation of the ceiling of the apartment from the outside

Imagine a situation in which the task is to insulate the ceiling in an apartment on the top floor. You can make external insulation using the following materials:

Mineral wool – the best insulation natural character, environmentally friendly, but its use is advisable only at the stage of construction and arrangement of the roof. .
Expanded clay- not only prevent heat loss, but also protect the home from the danger of fire, because. created on the basis of fired clay refractories. Absolutely indifferent to moisture, microorganisms, does not give harmful emissions;
Ecowool- based on cellulose fibers, environmentally friendly and breathable material;
Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene- cheaper polymers that retain heat, but do not breathe.

In this way, you ensure the choice of insulation depending on the budget and in the interests of maintaining environmental friendliness or sacrificing it. Wall insulation from the outside high-rise building assumes the presence of a structure based on walls for fixing thermal insulation - a special frame.

If we are talking about the roof, you can lay sheets or rolls directly on the cleaned surface using a special adhesive. Next is the laying of the roof or cladding.

Tip: you can combine two types of insulation by pouring a layer of expanded clay on the laid roll material. This will prevent excess moisture ingress and the possibility of fire.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside

If we are talking about the fact that the roof has already been laid, or the insulation of the walls of a multi-storey building from the outside does not cope enough with heat loss, you can strengthen the ceiling structure inside the room using the same thermal insulation boards, which were discussed above.

Note! First, waterproofing is carried out, after which the material is laid and then the ceiling is sewn up with plasterboard.

It is recommended to fasten the thermal insulation with glue or with butterfly clips, while maintaining a small gap. The plates are attached to the ribs of the profile frame and are covered with drywall sheets from above. Similarly, it is made frame insulation walls. Moreover, it is recommended not to insulate everything, but only the structures in contact with the facade of the building.

Tip: if the insulation is made in the cold season, you should first heat the base and dry it.

Scheme for the implementation of the attic "warm pie"

Photo-scheme of attic insulation from the inside

When insulating the second floor or attic, builders often choose a reliable and simple scheme:

The first "layer" of the pie is the rafters of the roof structure with a crate and waterproofing equipped on them;
Between them, with an indent from the crate, a heater stretches;
A vapor-permeable membrane is laid directly on the insulation, designed to protect against through winds and moisture. If the roof will be lined with metal tiles or ondulin, a film is laid that protects against condensate;
The film under the insulation should be tightly clamped with slats and nailed to the rafters;
Finishing is laid on top, taking into account the indentation of 2-5 mm from the vapor-permeable and heat-reflecting vapor barrier.

We insulate the floor and gables of the attic

Do not forget that the insulation of the floor of the second floor will save not only the upper room, but also ensure the preservation of heat below. Before proceeding with it, it is necessary to provide a decent vapor barrier.

Then it will be possible to line on cement screed familiar types of heaters and lay the flooring on top.

Do not forget that the gaps between the walls and the eaves should also be treated with roll material and covered with a board or floor covering.

As for the gables and other structures, it is advisable to proceed according to the loggia insulation scheme:

If the sheathing on the outside has already been made, the insulation boards are located on the inside on the waterproofing. Please note that if the timber is thinner than the insulation layer, it is not necessary to compress or compress the latter, it is better to fill a new layer of timber on top;
If there is a possibility of external insulation, first a vapor barrier is laid, then a heater, and only from above the waterproofing is covered with siding or other cladding.

Solving insulation problems

Producing roofing and interfloor insulation in a wooden house, they do not always take care of laying a vapor condensate film. Due to the temperature difference inside and outside the room, condensate is formed with a probability of almost 100%. This effect can create the illusion of a leaky roof.

To protect the mineral insulation and wooden elements roofs from rotting and mold, you should think about some details:

To begin with, treat all wooden parts with an antiseptic composition such as Pinotex;
Use over the laid roll material film vapor and wind protection coatings that are able to retain condensate moisture, as well as a vapor barrier film. Such a vapor barrier can be located below the insulation, while windproof barriers can be located above, between it and the roof;
choose famous brands- Monarflex, URSA, Yutafol or Elfoil, which you can easily fix with your own hands, taking into account the roof scheme.

FAQ

How to choose a layer of insulation?

It all depends on the thickness of the frame or rafter boards. Climatic conditions and temperature changes are also taken into account.

For example, when making interfloor insulation from basalt or mineral wool, you should take at least 18 cm in thickness, but to be sure, you can round it up to 20-23 cm.

Note! All seams must be covered, and if the height of the insulation exceeds the height of the frame, it is better to stuff the counter rails on top.

Taking into account the subsequent vapor barrier and the gap between it and the insulation, all 30 cm of space that we “steal” from the ceilings will be required.

What density to choose a heater?

The minimum indicator for working with pitched roofs not less than 15kg square meter. Otherwise, voids may form over time.

For greater certainty, we denote the range from 15 to 35 kg/m3. Of course, the price will also depend on the density, so calculate your budget by choosing the golden mean.

Is it always necessary to insulate the ceiling or windows?

Many builders bypass the laying of material between the attic and the first floor, performing only soundproofing from sand. If the attic is not heated, it is necessary to equip the insulation, be sure to lay a vapor barrier.

And here is the insulation plastic windows, more precisely, their slopes will not hurt.