Dark floors in the bath. How to make floors in a bath correctly: tips from the masters. Preparation of material and place of work

When building a bath, special attention must be paid to the floor.

It must be resistant to high temperatures and high humidity, therefore, choose the material of the flooring very carefully.

In this article we will talk about what types of bath floors are, how to build a concrete and wooden floor with your own hands, what materials are needed for this.

Types of floors for a bath

In addition to resistance to aggressive external influences, such as high temperature and excessive importance, the floor must be provided with a whole system of rapid outflow of water.

Bath floor coverings differ:

By material the floor is made of;
By functional features.

The main condition for choosing a material is its resistance to high temperatures.

How to make a warm water floor on a wooden floor:

Wood covering is the most popular among those who like to take a steam bath in a hot bath. This option is one of the cheapest, however it is short-lived and deteriorates within 10 years. In the case of an improperly equipped drain, the boards begin to rot faster, emit an unpleasant odor;
Concrete floor is more durable, but without good insulation from above it will be cold enough for bare feet, so on top of it you definitely need to put additional flooring;
Tiled floor often used in showers or relaxation areas. This is due to the fact that it does not absorb moisture and is very easy to clean with any disinfectant.

Nowadays, more and more often in the construction of baths they use Self-leveling floors with high performance characteristics.

Mixes for self-leveling floors are created on new technologies and consist of polymer base with inclusions of gypsum and cement.

Enough combine them with water and pour on the floor to even out any unevenness. They are durable, safe and beautiful in the interior.

The advantages of a self-leveling floor are:

flat and smooth surface;
durability, the operation of the self-leveling floor can reach 50 years;
resistance to impact environment , that is, it is not susceptible to high humidity and hot temperatures, as well as to chemical alkalis and acids;
safety for human health.

When building a concrete floor a prerequisite is the presence perimeter foundation... The concrete floor will be poured onto it in the future. For these construction works we need:

concrete mixer;
building level;
shovel;
buckets and wheelbarrow.

When building a wooden floor, it is necessary to put on the wooden logs subfloor, insulate it with a layer thermal insulation material, and then lay out the surface of the floor with treated finishing boards.

For this the necessary tools will be:

hammer;
plane;
tape measure and pencil for measurements and design calculations.

Do-it-yourself concrete floor in the bath

A prerequisite for the construction of a concrete floor in a bath is the presence of a well-established foundation for sauna stove(read how to do it) and the output drainage system regulating the outflow of water.

Device concrete pavement is a rather complex process, so you should adhere to a certain sequence of actions:

First of all, you need to dig drain hole the size 1 × 1 meter in the place where there will be a shower room (washroom) and a steam room. After that, the dug recess is filled with broken brick or large crushed stone by 15 cm.In this case, it is necessary to tamp this layer so that it has a slope towards the drain by about 10 – 15 %;
In the bath, you must also take care of sewer system... After use, water should drain into a special pit (depression), from where it will be pumped out by special drainage pumps(read how to choose it). This hole is pulled out to a depth of at least 2 meters not far from the bathhouse, and is lined with clay on all sides, which does not allow water to pass through. The deeper the pit is, the faster waste water will drain into it;
The final stage in floor construction is cooking concrete mortar in a concrete mixer. On packages with cement, the proportions of materials are usually indicated, however, the optimal ratio of sand to cement 3 to 1, that is, for 1 kg of cement, we need 3 kg of sand. Water is gradually poured into the mixer, equal in volume to the amount of sand. After preparing the solution, they are poured into the floor in the bath to a height 5 cm... In the construction markets, a special leveling mixture of polymer compounds, cement and plaster is sold, which makes it easier to level a concrete floor at home. It is enough to dilute the dry commercial mixture with water and pour it onto the concrete floor. It has a high fluidity and will independently smooth out almost all irregularities in the floor. A week is enough for this mixture to dry completely.

Do-it-yourself wooden floor in the bath

The wooden flooring in the bath is built using special floorboards that fit on lags- special cross beams.

The construction of a wooden floor should take place in five main stages:

Initially, you need to dig a hole around the perimeter of a steamy depth 40 - 60 cm and fill its edges and base with concrete. To do this, you need about 10 liters of solution... After it has hardened, after about 3-4 days, it is necessary to lay on the base of the floor a layer of crushed stone and sand with a thickness 5 cm having tamped well;
In the compacted layer of crushed stone and hardened concrete, special brick posts are installed 25 × 25 cm, which will hold the wooden logs. The main requirement for the number of bricks used is that the posts protrude about a couple of centimeters above the pit;
For the construction of a wooden leaking floor can be used uncircumcised wooden planks with a smooth outer surface. It is necessary to cut the boards depending on the size of the bath, after which they can be laid on the logs. When installing the first plank, leave a gap near the wall for ventilation of about 3 cm... The first uncut board is nailed with the calculation of ventilation. Subsequent boards are nailed with a mandatory gap of about 5 mm... To maintain operational properties, the tree must be treated with a double layer of drying oil or other protective material;
When building a non-leaking floor, special wooden beams 50x50 cm on which the sub-floor with waterproofing will be installed. It consists of several layers that provide leveling and insulation of the floor before topcoat boards. When laying the sub-floor, edged and non-standard boards treated with antiseptics and drying oil can be used. It is necessary to put a heat-insulating layer of roofing material and expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) on the roughing boards 10 cm thick, another layer of roofing material is placed on top;
Over rough coating grooved boards with a thickness of approximately 15-20 cm... Each board should be nailed to the logs with several nails or screwed with self-tapping screws. We will need from 3 to 5 screws or nails, their number depends on the thickness of the boards.

Important! It is not recommended to lay boards too close to each other, as in high humidity they swell and may begin to crack. Optimal distance between dry grooved boards when laying the floor in the bath is 3 - 5 cm, since at high humidity they can swell several times.

How to insulate the floor in a bath

Any bath should keep the heat and heat from the stove on long time... In addition, the floor in the steam room should be warm but not hot either.

Therefore, when building a bath, special attention should be paid floor insulation.

The main materials used in thermal insulation are:

expanded clay... It is made from natural clay shale, which is fired in a kiln at a maximum temperature of 1000 to 1400 °. As a result, expanded clay has a number of advantages over other materials: moisture resistance, strength and long service life;
polystyrene or penoplex they are good insulation materials that do not allow moisture and heat to pass from the room;
perlite quite lightweight and practically does not have thermal conductivity, therefore it is often used for floor insulation in a bath. This material is volcanic, very light and crumbly. At the same time, perlite does not burn and is resistant to aggressive environmental factors;
glass wool used for insulation of concrete floors. Its fibers can absorb moisture, thereby reducing their thermal insulation properties.

Let's consider the main options insulation bath floor:

Warming with perlite... To prepare a heat-insulating mixture, it is necessary to mix perlite and water in a ratio of 2 to 1. It is necessary to stir the solution until a film of water begins to appear on the surface of the mixture. This is an indicator of the readiness of the solution. After preparing the solution with the help of shovels, a mixture of perlite is laid on the floor covering in a thin layer, leveled and left to dry for a week. After the thermal insulation layer has completely dried, the floor is again poured with concrete mortar to a height of 5 cm;
Foam insulation the most popular option due to its cheapness and ease of use. Foam boards are lightweight and do not decay. The foam is laid out on the floor as a layer between concrete fill in two rows, the gaps between the plates are filled polyurethane foam or scraps of foam material. Place on top of the foam boards reinforcement mesh, which is poured with concrete;
Warming with expanded clay... Depending on what kind of load the flooring will experience during operation, depends required amount expanded clay. Experts recommend filling expanded clay with a layer of at least 10 cm.

Before filling the insulating layer on concrete or on a rough wooden floor, it is necessary to put special beacons along which the floor will be leveled.

After the concrete is completely dry, the floor is covered with expanded clay, while it is necessary to carefully monitor that the floor surface is perfectly flat and smooth.

The final stage in is the final pouring of concrete solution to a height 5 cm.

Advice! When buying expanded clay, you should take several types of expanded clay with different sizes granules. This is necessary to better fasten them together.

How to treat the floor in the bath from decay

Most often, when building a floor in a bath, they are used conifers.

This wood contains resin protecting the floor from rapid decay and the appearance of an unpleasant odor.

However, in order to extend their service life, it is advisable to monitor the condition of the boards and process antibacterial, antifungal means.

In hardware stores it is sold a large number of specialized bath impregnation with which you need to regularly process the floor.

Before starting to use the bath, it is necessary to treat the floor covering with antibacterial and moisture resistant materials several times a day for a week, so that they are well absorbed into the wooden boards.

Thus, regardless of what type of floor you have chosen for the bath, necessary condition during its construction there will be thermal insulation and waterproofing. Then the bath will serve you long years giving you joy and strength.

A step-by-step guide to building a floor in a bathhouse, you can watch in this video.

After completing the assembly of the frame of the bath building, you can do the interior finishing work, among which the procedures for arranging the floors take a special place. In this article we will try to talk about how to make a floor in a bath with our own hands from wood and concrete, we will give step by step guide, as well as photo and video instructions.

First of all, it should be noted that both wood or concrete and ordinary ceramic tiles can be used for the manufacture of bath floors (in some cases, the floors can be made directly on clay).

The main thing to focus on when carrying out work is to ensure the normal outflow of used water. Note also that when finishing floors in "hot" rooms, in no case is it allowed to use synthetic materials(linoleum, for example), which, when heated, can release toxic and harmful substances.

In the production of such work, special attention should also be paid to the insulation of the floor covering, which directly affects the comfort of the procedures taken. In those cases when you decide to make a floor of concrete - be sure to take care that it is covered from above with a wooden flooring or special cork slabs that provide comfortable washing conditions.

Wood

From all of the above, it follows that before making the floor in the bath, you will definitely need to decide on the material used to make it.

Wooden floors are recommended to be made from conifers wood (fir, pine, larch or spruce); and in this case, you can use two options. The first of them involves the arrangement of a continuous coating that does not allow water to pass through, and in the second case, the floorboards are laid with a small gap, which ensures a free drain of washing waste.

Solid or "non-leaking" floors are made by embedding logs directly into the clay or installing them on concrete (preferably with a small depression), followed by dense filling with tongue-and-groove boards. But before that on concrete surface a classic screed is made, which has a slight slope towards the drain. At the same time, at a certain point, at the edge or in the middle of the room, a drainage collector is installed, which is connected to the sewer system of your house.

The preparation of the so-called leaking floor is usually carried out according to the following scheme:

First, a well-leveled and compacted soil is covered with a layer of gravel with sand, which is subsequently poured with liquid concrete.
In its shape, the surface to be poured should resemble a funnel with gentle slopes and with a center at the collection point (with a protective grid installed in the drain).
Then, wooden logs are mounted on brick posts, which serve as the basis for placing the flooring.
And at the end of the work, edged floorboards are laid on these logs with a gap of 5–6 mm.

When arranging such a floor, worry about waterproofing the columns supporting the logs by lining pieces of roofing felts or roofing material under them, folded in several layers. In the absence of bricks, the fragments of old concrete slabs... You should also pay attention to the fact that it will be possible to start preparing the floors in the steam room and the washing room only after you have completed the installation of the water drainage system and prepare the foundation for the stove.

The need for antiseptic processing of wood structural elements must not be overlooked, and also not forgotten about ventilation of spaces under the floor, which ensures their safety. In particular, the removal of wet vapors can be organized through the use of an oven blower.

Concrete floor in the sink and steam room

Many experts consider the arrangement of a concrete floor in a bathhouse to be economically correct and a profitable solution... The long service life of concrete speaks in favor of this method of flooring. A high-quality screed can last more than 30 years. Among the advantages of this floor, it is worth noting:

Resistant to temperature extremes and high humidity.
Does not rot.
No harmful microorganisms and fungi develop on concrete.

You don't need to buy to maintain your concrete floor expensive funds household chemicals. In addition, you have the option to decorate the floor with tiles, for example.

A lot of water is used in the bath. This implies the need for a drainage arrangement. Before concreting the floor, design and implement a drainage system. To do this, you need to determine the point that will allow you to most easily equip sewerage system... At this point, an intermediate tank should be placed, which can be made in the form of a small pit with a size of 40 × 40 × 30 cm.The simplest method of processing the pit is concreting, with a layer of at least 5 cm.

Then, a drainage should be made from this reservoir into a sewer manhole / septic tank. For these purposes, you can use a fan pipe with a diameter of 200 mm.

The soil should be leveled and then tamped. Then cover the floor with coarse gravel 15 cm thick. The gravel can be replaced with a brick fight. The next layer is crushed stone 10 cm thick.

After the crushed stone has been compacted, a 5 cm thick layer of concrete should be poured. It should be made with a slope towards the preliminary waste water tank.

To significantly reduce heat loss in the bath, the concrete floor should be insulated. This is done after the first layer of concrete has hardened. Expanded clay can be used as insulation. It needs to be covered with a layer of 5–8 cm.

This is not the only insulation that is suitable for arranging a concrete floor. Often for these purposes, building felt or mineral wool... But, it is worth considering the fact that when laying mineral wool as a heater, you will have to additionally waterproof it. Roofing material can be used as a waterproofing layer.

Bitumen should be poured between the floor and the wall.

Another option for floor insulation is filling cement mortar with perlite (rock of volcanic origin). They began to use it in this direction relatively recently. The advantages of this component are high water absorption and thermal insulation characteristics.

Perlite is a very light material, so work with it must be done indoors.

Kneading is done in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is important to strictly follow the instructions that are indicated on the packaging for the product.

For insulation or waterproofing (it depends on the insulation material) the second concrete layer should be poured. In this case, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh before pouring the concrete (this can be a wire or a reinforced mesh). In order for the concrete to be durable as a result, it must be tamped, leveled with a rule, and poured concrete on top.

To fill the screed, a sand-cement mortar or a self-leveling mixture is used. If tiles will be used to decorate the floor, then it is better to buy cement mix designed for these purposes.

The screed must be poured in one go, so you need to act quickly. Start pouring from the far corner, leveling the grout with a trowel. It is necessary to tighten it with a rule in a circular motion, which would be directed towards the exit from the room. After the screed has to harden, this process takes several days.

With the addition of plasticizers, the concrete hardening process is accelerated. They, among other things, increase the strength of the concrete, reliably connect the constituent components of the mortar to each other and prevent the possibility of cracks.

The screed hardens completely in 3 weeks. In the first week, it needs to be watered from time to time.

The surface quality is determined after the concrete is completely dry. If the screed has a solid gray tint, then this indicates its uniformity. In addition, on durable and high-quality concrete, there will be no noticeable marks from a hammer blow.

Ceramic tiles are most often used as finishing concrete floors in a bath. The tiles will also look spectacular. A significant drawback of tiles is that when wet, they become slippery, which increases the risk of injury. Therefore, from a practical point of view, it is better to lay Metlakh tiles on the concrete floor.

You should not use linoleum and other synthetic coatings in bath rooms (even in those in which the temperature is not as high as in the steam room). The fact is that in the process of heating, substances are released from them that can lead to intoxication, that is, severe poisoning of the body.

Auxiliary premises

In rooms with a low level of humidity and relatively low temperatures, it is allowed to use laminate and linoleum prohibited for steam rooms. In the dressing room, such a covering is laid over a special flooring, which provides the possibility of drying the floors. When using such a basis floor covering turns out to be double, consisting of a rough and a finishing flooring.

When working with the floor, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

the optimal height of the floor base above the ground is considered to be a level that exceeds this mark by at least 30 cm;
for the manufacture of a natural wood floor, edged or grooved boards with a thickness of about 25–35 mm are selected;
laying the lag on brick posts in such structures is required.

The procedure for arranging floor coverings in a bathhouse made in the old Russian style, in fact, is no different from the procedures described above (taking into account the fact that the floors in the steam room can even be earthen). Before preparing them, you will need to do the following operations:

Along the perimeter of the base, at a distance of about 50 cm from the foundation, the soil is first selected (to a depth of about 45-50 cm).
The resulting site is filled up to the required level with a mixture of fine gravel and sand, and then carefully compacted.
The boards are laid directly on the prepared base, which is quite consistent with the floors made according to the old methods.

Video

This video will answer the most frequently asked questions about the floor in the bath:

Photo

Scheme

These diagrams will help you in arranging the floor in the bath:

It is difficult to imagine a Russian person who has not been to the bathhouse or has no idea about it. The ancestors revered the steam room not only because it was possible to wash away the dirt there. Bath was credited with healing properties, visiting her healed both the soul and the body. Of course, even today it does not lose popularity. In many cases, the landowners themselves are engaged in the construction of a building on the site, since this option allows you to make construction less expensive. And here a lot of questions arise regarding materials. In particular, the floor in the bath is of interest. What and by what technology can it be made?

Types of floors

Before disassembling the basic materials, one can and should say a few words about the design. The work technology itself is quite simple, but it depends on what kind of floor is being made: leaking or non-leaking. The difference between the two is that a leaking floor has the ability to let water through, it just seeps through it. Therefore, in a bath with a leak-proof floor dirty water drains into the sewer. For this, the floor is made with a slight slope towards the drain hole. What would be the best way to do it?

Advice! Experts recommend equipping the leaking floor in the bath. It is easier to make, and the efficiency of water drainage is higher. Water discharged into the sewerage system with a non-leaking field is capable of stagnation. This causes the materials to rot and may cause the floor to cool down.

Traditionally, the floors in the baths are made of wood, but in Lately concrete was used for these purposes. Both materials have their own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. Based on these nuances, you can decide what is better to make the floor in specific situation.

Concrete floors

So, let's say a decision was made to make the floor in the bath from concrete. What should you know about this material?

Advantages and disadvantages

First, it is worth noting the durability of the material and its resistance to decay. Wooden floors, as a rule, serve three times less than self-leveling ones. Secondly, caring for such a floor is much easier. Thirdly, the dense structure of concrete prevents free air circulation. In this case, this is important, because the greatest heat loss in the cold season occurs precisely through the floor.

As for the shortcomings, everything is quite simple. Firstly, if you make a self-leveling floor in a bath, then you need to be prepared for significant investments. Secondly, the arrangement process will be quite laborious. And, of course, the gray unattractive surface must be decorated in order to give the bath a cozy look.

Finishing

Concrete floor finishing can be done by the most various materials: tiles, cork, tree. For laying tiles, self-leveling floors must be made, otherwise the coating will be uneven.

Important! The tiles used for the floor in the baths must have special anti-slip notches. Otherwise, the floor will be slippery, injuries on such a coating are much easier to get.

In some cases, to save money, it is suggested to lay the usual wooden pallets that will cover the unsightly self-leveling floor. It is important here to pay attention to their quality, since the most simple options can cause splinters.

Warming

The self-leveling floors are cold enough, so it is recommended to insulate them. For this, perlite is added to the concrete, or a pipe system of underfloor heating is installed. Also, to give the necessary strength, you will need to lay a reinforcing mesh.

Summing up, we can say that a floor made of concrete, self-leveling or made by the method of simple pouring, is a very good option for a bath. And, if possible, he should be given preference.

Wood floors

Sauna wood is a classic that will never lose its relevance. And let the wood serve less than the self-leveling floor, it gives more comfort. It is this material that allows you to mount a leaking floor, which has already been mentioned above.

Advantages and disadvantages

Of the advantages, it should be noted:

Environmental friendliness;
Less labor input;
Appearance that does not require finishing;
Lower cost.

The disadvantages are as follows:

Shorter service life compared to concrete;
Difficulty in cleaning;
The need to treat wood with antifungal compounds.

Wood species

In order for the floor in the bath to be not only environmentally friendly, but also reliable, it is important to choose the right type of wood. Professionals advise using pine or spruce, which have antibacterial properties and, when heated, saturate the air with a fresh coniferous aroma. Larch has excellent performance characteristics. It is not afraid of moisture, while it can be an excellent competitor to valuable wood species. And all thanks outward appearance which is original enough.

Interesting! Oak, which belongs to one of the most durable and beautiful species, is not recommended for use in a sauna. The fact is that Oak planks may be slippery and hazardous in high humidity.

Selection rules

In order to choose the right floorboards, it is important to consider the basic recommendations. When buying, you should focus on:

Hardness. The higher the density of wood, the more resistant it is to wear and tear. And this, in turn, indicates a long service life.
Shrinkage. This indicator is also called stability. The higher the stability (the lower the shrinkage rate), the lower the likelihood of cracks and cracks. The latter are formed by mechanical stress and temperature extremes.
Oxidability. Under the influence of moisture, the tree tends to lose its original color, turning into nondescript gray boards. For this to happen as late as possible, it is important to choose wood with low level oxidizability.

Both wood and self-leveling floor are perfect for a bath. If desired, these two materials can be combined to create something unusual. It is impossible to say unequivocally which will be better. The choice should depend on the specific situation, personal wishes and budget. But, most importantly, it should be made taking into account further plans for the bath. If in the future it is planned to make it a little more or somehow better, then dismantling the wooden floor will be much easier!

Despite the high temperatures in the steam room, below it rarely exceeds 30 degrees, but on the floor constantly high humidity... Therefore, when arranging the floor in such conditions, there are some peculiarities.

In this article, we will tell you about how the floor in the bath is made on the ground, the preparation process and the scheme for laying a wooden floor.

Types of floors for a bath

In most cases, it is the wood floor that is chosen for: it is not slippery, costs less, and is easy to install.

Concrete types are usually chosen for public saunas, since from intensive use the tree would have to be changed every 2-3 years.

A leaking wooden floor is made in cases where it is necessary for moisture to freely pass through the gaps between the boards and be removed from the subfloor to the outside... Compared with other types, this design has simple technology the buildings. Such option will do only for warm regions, since it does not have thermal insulation.
Non-leaking wooden floors are made of tongue-and-groove boards tightly joined together... The slope of the floor in the bathhouse is made towards the drain ladder, which will ensure the removal of moisture into the sewage system or drain pit.
Such a cake of the floor in the bath allows you to make waterproofing, vapor barrier and insulation, which sets it apart from the previous version.
In the steam room, it makes no sense to make a leak-proof floor, since the price of the structure increases greatly, and there will not be a lot of water there. For the convenience of cleaning, you can make a two-sided slope of the floor.
Concrete floor screed has an advantage over wood species in high durability... The screed will serve you 30-50 years, and the tree less than 10 years.
Although the costs of its device go out and more, according to operational characteristics concrete beats wood strongly.

Floor construction

As a rule, the installation of the floor in the bathhouse in the steam room is done at an elevation relative to the zero mark of the finished floor. It is enough to raise it by 7-10 cm and the heat will be kept better in the steam room.

V washing department on the contrary, the floor height in the bath is made lower so that water does not penetrate into other rooms.

Basic materials

It is believed that in the question of which floor is better in the bath, larch is beyond competition. In terms of hardness and wear resistance, it is comparable to oak, and it only becomes stronger from moisture. The only drawback of using it is its high cost.

Similar boards made of pine or spruce will cost 2-3 times cheaper. If it is possible to use larch for reasonable money, then it is better to choose it. If not, then you can buy grooved boards of birch, pine, spruce, fir, alder. Subfloor - in the bath you can make pine to save money.

An important rule to follow is to lay only dry boards. Raw wood during operation will greatly change its size and shape.

The thicker the board is, the more it will deform. Planks 21-25 mm thick will resize the least, but they will sag. To fix this, you can log more frequently. The best option are boards 35 mm with a width of 12 cm.

For insulation, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are most often used.

The waterproofing and vapor barrier is made of a vapor barrier membrane, such as Izospan. Its advantage is that it allows moisture to pass through only in one direction. Due to this, on the one hand, moisture does not pass inside, and on the other hand, excess condensate and steam are removed. This allows you to keep the insulation always dry and it does not lose its characteristics.

Also in this case we will use:

Bar 70 * 100 mm;
Lags 50 * 180 mm;
Skull bars 40 * 40 mm;
Plywood or board trims 20-25 mm thick to make a double floor.

Dismantling the old floor

If you are replacing an old covering, then first of all you need to dismantle the old floor of the frame bath.

Will need to remove upper layer soil, about 25 centimeters, to get rid of the fungus that has fallen into the ground. Old boards must be burned immediately.

Advice!
Concrete walls can be heated with a building gas cannon to kill all the fungus.
Additionally, it must be treated with Anti-Mold to remove the remaining pores of the fungus.

An elastic coating waterproofing is made below the floor level.
A layer of sand backfill is laid on the ground, leveled and carefully rammed.
Then fiberglass and Izospan vapor barrier are laid on the sand. On top of them you need to sprinkle with another sandy layer. This is necessary in order to protect lower part floorboards from moisture, fungus and decay. Insulation sheets must be glued together with tape.

Advice!
If a rat hole is found in the foundation, then it must be sealed with concrete with the addition of liquid and broken glass.

Pie and gender features

V this example the floors are used in the bath on the ground. To obtain the desired elevation level, 70 * 100 beams are mounted on the posts before laying the logs.

They will take on some of the load, distribute it evenly, increase the strength and simplify the leveling of the base.

First of all, waterproofing from two layers of roofing material is laid on the foundation and brick props.
Then the retaining beams are laid. Their edges will lie on the foundation, and 1-3 columns support them in the center.
On top of the beams, logs are attached to the corners. They should be trimmed on both sides to a center length of 2 cm to create a slope.
Skull bars are nailed to the bottom of the lag, forming an inverted T. They are needed for fixing the sub-floor, so there is no need for special strength, any screws or nails will do.
The sub-floor boards are laid, and on top of them is attached vapor barrier membrane with an overlap of 20-30 cm. Then it will need to be glued together with the waterproofing of the walls.

On the subfloor and closed with a vapor barrier. It is attached to the logs with a stapler. The joints are glued with tape.
At the end, the flooring of the finished floor from the grooved board is attached. To hide the attachment points, they are fastened with self-tapping screws into a groove at an angle of 45 degrees.

Note!
A ventilation gap of 2-3 cm must be provided under the finished floor.
To do this, you can use higher logs, or stuff additional counter-lattice bars on them after attaching the vapor barrier to the insulation.

Manufacturing of retaining posts

To eliminate the deflection of the support beams from a high load, you need to make additional supports (chairs) in weak places. Naturally, the most weak points will be the center of the beams and the place under the oven. Chairs can be made of wood, brick, concrete.

Instructions on how to make concrete posts with your own hands:

To make concrete posts, mark the places where they will be installed and dig holes 40 cm deep.
At the bottom of the pit, you need to pour a 25 cm layer of sand and gravel for the substrate and compact them well.
From the boards, make a formwork of about 25 * 25 cm (1 brick in size) and up to. On the inner walls formwork, lay roofing material.

Advice!
You can do permanent formwork columns made of asbestos-cement, sewer PVC pipes or twisted roofing material.

Wire up reinforcement cage in each column of rods with a diameter of 10 mm.

Prepare a mortar of cement, sand and fine gravel (in proportions 1: 3: 5).
Before pouring, make a mortgage in the center of the post for easy fastening of the beams. It is best made from a threaded stud.
Fill the posts to the same level and let them dry for at least a few days. They will gain full strength only after a month.

Installation of the subfloor

Advice!
Process everything wooden elements antiseptic before starting work.

Lay and secure the retaining beams to the foundation. Pay attention that from the edges of the logs and beams at the junction with the wall there is a temperature gap of 1 cm.They are attached to the foundation anchor bolts 12 * 140 mm.
To make it easier to trim the remaining logs at the same angle to drain, use one of them as a template.

When laying the sub floor, you can use almost any board, since it is only needed for laying thermal insulation. At the same time, be sure to treat them with an antiseptic and remove the bark before laying.
We fasten the waterproofing to the logs with a stapler every 10-15 cm with an overlap and overlap on the walls.
The insulation is laid close to each other, with an offset of the joints. Mineral wool should not be crumpled, but cut exactly to the size of the cells.

Then, in the same way, we attach another layer of vapor-waterproofing to the logs.

Laying the finished floor

We fasten the first sheathing board with an indent from the wall 1-2 cm from above on a self-tapping screw. Try to do this as close to the wall as possible to hide the hat with the baseboard.
We attach the subsequent boards to the groove to the previous one. For their tight docking with each other, make a doboin with a thorn. Through it, you can knock boards with a hammer without fear of damaging the connecting elements.
If an even stronger docking is required, then make pegs with a thorn. By nailing metal staples to the joists, you can use them to wedge the boards, as shown in the photo.

To hide the caps of the screws, all subsequent boards are fastened from the side of the groove, screwing the screws there to the logs at an angle. In order for the boards to be pressed tightly and not to crack, holes must be drilled before that.
During installation last board, it will need to be cut to the width circular saw... It must be fastened in the same way as the first, with self-tapping screws from above.

Conclusion

By making a wooden floor in frame bath, you can be sure that it will last for at least 10 years of active use. If you want to make a floor heating system, put a tiled floor in a bath, make a drain, then you need to make a screed.

The video in this article shows self-styling floor in the bath.

Installation of floors in a bath is one of the most critical stages of construction. In most cases, the floors are wood or concrete. AND quality solution the tasks related to how to lay the floors in the bath will determine the quality of the bath procedures and the durability of both the floor itself and the bath as a whole.

Let's find out how the floors in the bathhouse can be equipped with our own hands.

Wooden floor

Sex with wood flooring can be leakproof and leaky. For each of them, the installation instructions are different.

Installation of non-leaking floors

The most simple construction gender and the procedure is as follows:

Floor beams are usually mounted in the process of laying a log house, cutting them into the first row of beams or logs... Usually they rest on the foundation if it is strip or masonry between the pillars in the case of a columnar foundation.
If this has not been done, then the beams can be embedded even after the construction of the walls and roof.... Or make the floor in the sauna rooms independent of the foundation and walls. It will not affect how to lay the floor in the bath.
In this case, separate posts must be laid out under the floor beams. They are made in the same way as the foundation posts.

Attention: The top level of the posts should not be higher than the level of the foundation.
Yes, and below is undesirable, this will allow you to solve many problems in the future.

Boards are solidly nailed to the floor beams from below, or 50x50 mm bars are nailed to the bottom of the lateral sides of the beams... The sub-floor is laid on these blocks.

After that, a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the rough boards..
One or two are placed on the vapor barrier... It can be mineral wool or basalt wool based insulation.
Then another layer of vapor barrier is laid.

A grooved floorboard is laid on the beams from above.

If such floors are made for a steam room or a washing room, then the floor surface should have a slight slope, about 2 cm per meter of distance along the floor.

This slope should be made towards a wall or towards a special water receiver installed in the floor. For the steam room, it is best to use hardwood, they are softer and do not emit harmful resins at high temperatures.

Speaking about how to lay the floor in the bathhouse (), there is no need to make such a slope, and the material for these rooms can be any: both coniferous and deciduous.

Installation of leaking floors

Such floors are laid only in the steam room and washing room, that is, where water drainage is required. Before laying the floor in this type of bath, it is necessary to prepare the ground under the future flooring.

In order to mount a leaking floor, do the following:

The ground inside the room is leveled, and a layer of sand is poured onto it and compacted so that as a result this layer becomes approximately 10 cm.
Then a layer of crushed stone is poured - 10 cm.
Done from above concrete screed, this creates an inclination towards the water receiver. Water should be discharged either into a septic tank, or further from the bath into the ground, which should absorb water well.
At the end of the pipe that diverts water, it is necessary to mount a special lock that does not let odors into the bath.
Boards or narrow slats are mounted on the beams, so that there is a gap of one or two centimeters between them.

Attention: Wood must be processed special formulations, allowing to extend the life of the material.

Screed floors

Having considered the previous two methods, it becomes clear that there is free space with the floor beams. As a result, it is quite cool in the lower part of the room in winter, and good insulation is required.

But you can do otherwise, and deciding how to lay the floors in the bath, you can avoid laying insulation or the ingress of cold air in the case of leaking floors.

This is done like this:

Floor joists are not installed at all.
A layer of sand, about 15-20 cm, is poured onto the ground and rammed.
Either crushed stone or expanded clay is poured onto the sand, also in a layer of 15-20 cm, it is also leveled and rammed.

A concrete screed is poured from above within 10 cm.

Wood floors

Wooden logs are laid on the screed, on which tongue-and-groove floorboards are already mounted. And in the same way, if it is a steam room or a washing room, then a slope is made to drain the water. If this is a rest room or dressing room, then you do not need to tilt.

Ceramic floor

You can do it differently, on flat concrete you can put it very well ceramic tiles... Using tile adhesive and tiles, a very durable, strong and reliable floor can be installed.

Attention: For the floor in the bath, a special, not slippery tiles, in order to avoid falls.

In conditions high temperatures, such as in a steam room. It makes sense to lay cork mats or a lattice of wooden bars on the floor.

Compared with wood floors, concrete floors have the advantage of being less expensive and much longer lasting. But concrete and tile floors cannot create an atmosphere of peace and comfort in the bathhouse.

The atmosphere in the bathhouse with wooden floors and the same walls allows you to get a good rest, therefore, before laying the floor in the bathhouse, you should think carefully about what will be more useful, not cheaper.

Replacing the floor

Nothing lasts forever, and no matter how we would like, but often a situation arises related to how to change the floor in the bath.

There may be several reasons:

The old floor has fallen into disrepair.
It does not perform water drainage functions.
He's just bored.
The floor is cold, slippery, etc.

And here, first of all, you need to look at what is available and what you want to get. Most often, the old coating is completely removed and an analysis is made of what is left under it.

Depending on the diagnosis, either everything is removed, after which the floor is installed like new. Either done redecorating and a new floor covering is being laid.

Option is possible complete replacement one type of floor to another. Then, too, everything old is deleted and everything new is mounted.

Conclusion

The bath floor has the same important function as the walls and ceiling. And it largely depends on him temperature regime indoors and how comfortable it is to be in this room without shoes. Therefore, it is important to correctly, in observance of all stages, carry out the installation of floor elements, and lay the floor covering.

To supply you additional information on this topic, as well as on issues related to construction, repair can our portal.