Arrangement of a drain pit in the country. The device and calculation of a cesspool in a private house, how to do it yourself A simple kitchen drain in a private house

Living in an apartment, you probably do not think about how the sewage system works underground. You do not need to worry about pumping out the pit and in general about its presence. But life in the countryside is a completely different question. When installing a bathroom or toilet, you need to make sure that the drain pit is not only roomy, but also properly made.

And then the question arises, how can it not fall apart in a year? We invite you to read the article to the end and find out the answer.

Seat selection

Before building a pit, you need to decide on a place and take into account some of the nuances. Firstly, an important rule that cannot be neglected is the distance from the house or fence to the finished structure. It should be at least 5 m, but better than 7-8 m.

Secondly, to pump out the pits, they resort to the services of sewers (if you have not bought a special pump, which we will talk about) and, of course, the car needs access. Therefore, construct the structure as close to the gate as possible, if applicable. But in pursuit of convenience, do not forget about the obligatory five meters.

Thirdly, consider the presence of wells or wells on the site. If they are, then the distance between the pit and the well should be at least 30 meters. With regard to groundwater, this is not a decisive factor in choosing a site. The type of pit depends on their presence.

Types of drain pits

Despite their simplicity, they can be of three types:

Two-chamber. It consists of two chambers connected by an overflow. In this case, the first will be hermetic, and the second will be filtering. Pipes coming from the house carry waste, which is separated in the process - solid inclusions fall to the bottom, and the liquid is transferred to the second chamber and filtered into the ground.
Sealed. This type of cesspool is the most environmentally friendly, because all waste is stored in the pit and waits until they are pumped out. But along with this, this plus turns into a minus, because you have to constantly pump out the hole.
Filtering. Such a pit can be built only if the total amount of waste in one day does not exceed 1 cubic meter. In other cases, according to sanitary standards, it is necessary to build pits of the first type.

Whichever of the pits you choose, sooner or later it will need to be cleaned. Use recyclable biologics to simplify this process.

The volume and selection of building materials

The drain hole in a private house should be roomy so that you don't have to pump it out every week. It is impossible to calculate its exact size, because it all depends on how much water is used for washing, washing dishes, hygiene procedures, and so on. But there are certain norms from which you can build on.

For example, if three people live in a family on a permanent basis, then the size of the pit should be 6 cubic meters.

Separately, it is worth talking about the material with which the drain pits are lined.

Typically, the following are used:

Concrete;
Brick;
Concrete rings;
Plastic.

In the first case, a formwork is built into which concrete mortar is poured. In order for the pit to be stronger, do not forget about the reinforcement. The thickness of the bottom and concrete walls should be at least 6-7 cm. Using plastic is the easiest option. It is enough to dig a hole and install a plastic container of the appropriate diameter. But there is one drawback. Plastic, under the pressure of the soil, can deform and to avoid this, the pit still needs to be concreted. In addition, you need to install special loops to which the tank is tied.

Brick is the best option for those who live in a private house or have a summer cottage. The pit, lined with ceramic bricks, serves for a long time and does not collapse under pressure, but subject to correct masonry. Also, do not forget about the slots for filtration, the size of which should be 4-6 cm. Concrete rings are also not a bad option, but you will not be able to install them yourself. At the very least, you need a crane or a few helpers. Usually 2-3 rings are used for pits, but it all depends on the size.

Knowing the above information, let's talk about how to make a do-it-yourself drain pit.

Construction stages

The first step is to dig a hole of the appropriate size. Its shape can be either square or cylindrical. Usually, they try not to dig holes more than 2 meters wide, but this is discussed on an individual basis.
After the hole is dug, the walls need to be leveled so that they do not crumble.
The third stage is piping. An important nuance is a slight slope of the pipe, which is necessary for the liquid to drain off by gravity. If the pipe has a diameter of 100 mm, then the slope is 20 mm. If the diameter is 160 mm, then 10.
After the pipes are installed, 10-20 cm of sand or gravel should be poured onto the bottom of the pit. Then, pour water over the "pillow" and tamp a little. If the pit is a filtration pit, then we leave everything as it is. And if it is airtight, then the bottom needs to be concreted or put a concrete slab.
Next, the walls are strengthened by the method you have chosen: brick, plastic, and so on.
If your pit is sealed, then after strengthening, you need to carry out waterproofing work.
The pipeline is connected.
The cover is installed.

The townspeople, using the plumbing, as a rule, do not think about where the waste water then flows. But the owners of country houses often have to solve the problem of waste disposal on their own. Consider how to properly make a drain pit. After all, it is this popular version of the local sewage system that is the simplest, cheapest and most affordable for self-construction.

When improving a house and a plot, the first thing to do is to build water supply and sewerage systems. Since it is quite difficult to imagine a comfortable life when it is necessary to carry water from a well.

There are a lot of options for organizing wastewater disposal, but the simplest and therefore very popular is the construction of a drain pit. Consider how to make a drain pit with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professional builders.

Types of drain pits

For all its simplicity, the drain pit can have a different design. The most common options are:

Sealed pit.
Filter pit.
Two-chamber pit.

Sealed pit

This version of the local sewage system is the safest for the environment, since all the drains from the house disappear into a sealed sump and remain there until they are pumped out by sewers.

Thus, there is no risk of contaminated water getting into the ground and soil water, that is, the presence of this type of sewage on the site does not affect the ecological systems. The disadvantage of this waste disposal option is the need to regularly pump out the accumulated liquid.

Filter drain pit

Sanitary rules are allowed to build drainage pits of a filter type only if the volume of wastewater per day is less than a cubic meter. If there is little wastewater, they have time to be processed by natural decomposition. Pits of this type can be built for a bathhouse, as well as for a house in which there is a separation of drains.

In the latter case, two sewer branches and two drainage pits are built. In the first (filter type), wastewater is transported from the shower room, from the washbasin, from the washing machine, that is, relatively clean. In the second (sealed type), drains from toilets and kitchens should be transported.

Two-chamber drain pit

Another practical solution to the problem of how to build a drain pit is the construction of a two-chamber installation. Consider the principle of operation of such a treatment plant:

The pit consists of two chambers connected at the top by an overflow.
The first chamber is sealed, the second is filtering.
The drains (undivided) come from the house into the first sealed chamber, where they are mechanically separated, that is, they are simply defended. Solid inclusions sink to the bottom, and relatively clean water pours into the second chamber.
From the second chamber, water is filtered into the ground.
Waste accumulated in the first chamber should be pumped out periodically.

Advice! So that the drain pit can be cleaned less often, it is recommended to use special biological products. Bacteria recycle organics, reducing the amount of solid waste.

Construction planning

Before making a drain pit, a construction plan should be drawn up. It is necessary to decide on the type of structure, choose the place of construction and determine the required volume of tanks.

How to determine the volume of the drain pit?

The main indicator on which the volume of the drainage pit will depend is the intensity of use of a residential building. It is clear that a more voluminous pit is needed for a house than for a summer cottage.

Advice! Of course, it is better to determine the volume of effluents individually, but there are generally accepted norms. So, for a family of three permanently residing in the house, a pit with a capacity of 6 cubic meters should be built.

When determining the volume of the tank, the following factors should also be taken into account:

Availability of sewer services.
The volume that the sewage equipment can pump out at one time.

Where to locate the drain pit?

Soil water should lie deep enough on the site, since the minimum depth of the pit is two meters.
If there is a source of drinking water nearby, then a pit should be placed at a distance of at least 30 meters from it.
The cesspool must not be placed on a slope.
It is necessary to provide for the availability of free passages for servicing the pit.
You can not place a hole next to the house and the fence of the neighboring site. The minimum distance to the accommodation is five meters.

In short, it is rather difficult to choose a place for construction, especially if the site is already equipped. However, you cannot deviate from the above rules.

The choice of material for construction

For the construction of a sealed pit, the following materials are used:

Concrete mortar. A formwork is being built into which the solution is poured. The thickness of the walls and the bottom should be at least 7 cm, it is advisable to perform reinforcement with a steel mesh.
Plastic containers. This is the least time consuming option. A pit is prepared, into which a finished plastic container is installed.

Advice! To exclude the possibility of deformation of tanks under the action of soil pressure, as well as its floatation during spring floods, it is recommended to concreting the walls and bottom of the pit. When concreting the bottom, special fastening loops are laid, to which a plastic tank is tied with polymer straps.

Concrete rings.
Ceramic brick.

When choosing the last two options, you have to take additional measures to seal the seams. For this, the brickwork (or the joints between the rings) is treated with mortar from the inside, the bottom of the pit is concreted.

Additionally, from the inside, the walls are covered with a bitumen solution, and the outside is covered with a thick (20 cm) layer of oily clay. And what is the best way to overlay a drain pit if a filter version of a treatment plant is being built? There are no less options. Perfect for:

Brick. The walls should be laid out so that between the rows there are five-centimeter gaps, located in a checkerboard pattern.
Reinforced concrete rings. Manufacturers specially produce rings for the construction of drainage wells, they have perforations. If it was not possible to buy such rings, holes in solid products can be made independently using a puncher.
Old car tires. From this material at hand, you can easily assemble a drainage well. The tires are stacked one above the other, having previously cut off the lower rim on each of them.
Old plastic or metal barrels. For the construction of a pit, a barrel without a bottom is used, while a number of holes are made in its lower part for better water filtration.

Stages of construction of a drainage pit

Consider how to properly make a drain pit, provided that the work is done independently:

Construction begins with the preparation of a pit and trenches for laying a supply pipeline.
The pit should be deeper than the planned depth of the drainage pit, since a drainage cushion is arranged at its bottom.
The drainage pad is made by pouring a layer of sand and gravel, each layer is tamped with high quality.
If the pit is sealed, then the height of the layers can be 10-15 cm. On top of the drainage pad, either put a finished reinforced concrete slab or make a concrete screed.
If a filter pit is being built, then the layer of crushed stone should be at least 20 cm so that the drains are better cleaned and the bottom does not silt up longer.
Next, the walls of the tank are strengthened, that is, brickwork is performed, concrete rings or plastic containers are installed, depending on the chosen construction material.
If a sealed tank is being built, then after the walls have been strengthened, they are waterproofed.
At this stage, the connection of the supply pipeline to the receiving tank is also carried out. The connection between the pipe and the tank must be airtight, but not rigid, so that it does not collapse under the action of ground movements. It is convenient to use rubber couplings.

At a distance of about 40 cm from the surface of the earth, an overlap for the pit is arranged. As a rule, a ready-made reinforced concrete slab with a hatch hole is used as a ceiling. If desired, such a slab can be cast on your own, having previously built the formwork.
Alternatively, thick boards can be used for the construction of the floor, but in this case, it will turn out to be less durable.
A hatch must be made into the ceiling to check the filling of the pit and pumping out its contents.
It is advisable to install a ventilation pipe on the cover. Indeed, in the process of decomposition of waste, various gases are formed, including methane, which are explosive. Therefore, it is better to provide for the availability of ventilation.
From above, the overlap can be covered with soil. The soil must be poured with a mound to prevent rainwater from flowing into the pit.

So, if you plan to arrange a local sewage system, the construction of a drain pit is one of the simplest, but at the same time, convenient and practical options. It will not hurt for beginners in the construction business to visually see how to make a drain pit - a video describing the stages of work can be found on construction sites.

One of the main tasks that arise before the start of summer cottage construction is the laying of utilities. Without them, even the minimum level of comfort cannot be achieved. How to make a drain pit (septic tank) with your own hands? This is the question many homeowners are asking. In the absence of a central sewerage, it is necessary for the drain to work around the clock and uninterrupted.

The choice of material for the construction of a septic tank

From building material used for the septic tank depends on the cost of the drainage pit itself, as well as your labor costs. Traditional and fully justified options are as follows:

Septic tank from a plastic tank and plastic components.

Prefabricated reinforced concrete septic tank designs.

Drain pit made of in-situ concrete using metal inlets and outlets.

Drainage structure made of bricks.

Choosing the volume future drainage pit, focus on cistern capacity of the sewage truck... You will have to call it periodically to pump out waste water. The volume of the septic tank must be equal to or a multiple of the volume of the "barrel"... Then you don't have to order cleaning several times a year.

If in the house you are planning live seasonally, then wastewater disposal is a solvable problem. It is necessary to make the most primitive cesspool of any sealed container... For a family from 3-4 a person its volume should be at least 1,5-2 m³. If there is no such container, you can lay out the hole in the ground with red refractory bricks. Diagrams of simple drainage structures are shown in the picture above.

But with permanent residence such a sewerage arrangement not good... Why - now you will understand. The life of the family involves the daily use of water in large quantities. These are baths, showers, washing dishes, wet cleaning, washing, natural needs.

The calculation of the water consumption is always based on maximum consumption and this 180-280 liters per day for one household. That is, a group of 4 -th person spends in a day 0,5-1 m³ of water or up to 30 m³ per month. Based on this, even a large drain hole in 15-20 m³ must be cleaned 1-2 once a month.

Such a sewage system will drain your family budget... In addition, the cleaning procedure itself is specific and a rare owner has a desire to perform it too often. We are talking about unpleasant odors that can spread throughout the area.

Sometimes improvement the drain hole is carried out by creating holes in the ground so that dirty water leaves through them, filtering in a natural way. But this method of disposal has many disadvantages, including prohibited by sanitary standards... Therefore, you have to equip a septic tank with natural liquid purification.

Principled difference the septic tank from the cesspool is that in the first one leaks anaerobic decomposition of organic matter.

Solid particles will linger at the bottom the first chamber, and the second serves for biological processing dirty water with putrefactive bacteria. The number of cameras may be large, but the principle of operation itself will remain similar to that shown in the figure above.

First, let's decide on water consumption in the house based on data tables:

Minimum height septic tank should be not less than 1.2 meters, otherwise, solid suspensions will not densely settle at the bottom of the drain pit.

In the figure you see the diagram single chamber septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings 2 m³. You can make such a cesspool for your home with your own hands.

Inlet pipe must be above the water level by 5-7 centimeters. This will prevent a hydraulic short circuit between the inlet and outlet pipes. Both connections must be immersed in liquid for 30-35 centimeters.

The lower part of the pipes should be made open, and these ends should be removed above the sewage level by 20 centimeters so that gas does not enter the pipes, which will be released during the fermentation of putrefactive bacteria.

Channels between both concrete rings the septic tank should be located within 30-60 centimeters relative to the water level. If the channel, which is located between the chambers, is lower, then large suspended matter will start falling into the small chamber. If the channel is higher, then fractions that float on the surface can get into this chamber.

For a septic tank, even the simplest, you need to provide venting gases to the outside(ventilation pipe in the diagram above), and hatch for pumping out liquid(wooden).

Configure Cameras drain pits can be done in different ways, since their shape and location do not affect on the quality of sewage water treatment. It is only necessary to observe following proportions: a large camera should take up 2/3 from the entire volume of the pit.

Ideal form for a septic tank - round. Such a solution requires 10-15 % less building materials. In addition, the "cylindrical" pit is stronger because it better handles the force of the ground pressure. For cladding and wall reinforcement better use brick.

Water in the pit does not freeze, as the temperature is raised by the fermentation processes. But cooling the liquid on the surface inhibits the activity of bacteria that purify sewage. Therefore, the upper part of the shallow septic tank is still it is recommended to insulate... At least half the depth of soil freezing in the region.

Insulation can act expanded clay, which is covered with a layer of thickness 25-40 centimeters, or foam plates PSB-25 thickness from 5 before 10 centimeters.

Do you have a private house or cottage outside the city? Do you have to take out a full bucket of water from under the sink every time? Stop suffering! Make a do-it-yourself drain in the house! It is quite real and quite simple. To do this, you will need to be patient and use the following materials: pencil, tape measure, hacksaw for metal, reinforced concrete rings, sewer pipe, rubber gaskets, concrete floors, cement, sand, gravel, wood, shovel and gloves.

Preparatory work

And so let's get started. First, you need to determine where the wastewater will be collected. Usually this is where the natural slope of the territory goes. And yet, if you have drinking water in a well or a well on your site, you must exclude the ingress of wastewater there. Secondly, it is necessary to draw a draft of the sewerage system (your private house must have a project, use it), measure and make a list of the necessary materials and components for work. Measure with maximum accuracy, taking into account everything to the smallest detail, so that you do not have to run to the store many times.

Are the materials ready? We begin installation work.

Internal sewerage

First, we lay the pipes inside the room. It is better to take PVC material, because it is easier to work with it. It is compatible with other building materials, it is lightweight, bends well, holds cement and bonds quickly.

Sewer pipe laying

Saw it with a hacksaw at a 90 degree angle. We connect the short parts of the structure at each joint, inserting rubber gaskets, which will ensure tightness. Now we connect all the elements. We take the pipes for the toilet bowls. They should be large in diameter (100 mm). This is necessary in order not to burden the drain. The rest of the pipes should have a diameter of about 50-75 mm, water will flow through them quickly enough.

We install pipes with a slope of 2-5 mm for each meter of pipe in order to simplify the drainage of water. We take the pipe out of the house at a depth of approximately one to two meters, depending on how deeply the ground freezes, and then, with a slope of 5 mm per linear meter, we introduce it into the sewer well. Now check if water flows well through them.

External sewerage

So we reached the cesspool. It can be of several types and classifications, with a bottom or without a bottom, respectively, ecological or polluting the environment.

You can use a pit without a bottom only if the flow volume is small (within 1 cubic meter per day) and if the points with drinking water are not closer than 50 meters from it.

But if you want to protect yourself from fines and criminal liability, then it is better to make a sealed cesspool. It is good because it eliminates problems, because they are pumped out with the help of professionals and special equipment. But this "pleasure" costs money.

Overflow sewerage in a private house

You can also build a sewer system with your own hands in a private house by processing wastewater, that is, a septic tank. In order to make a three-chamber septic tank, you must follow several rules:

The place for the septic tank is chosen lower than drinking water, at a distance of at least 50 m from the well.

There must be at least two meters to the fence.
There must be a place for the entry of sewage equipment.
Dig a hole with a volume of more than 3 drainage rates per day.
Fill the bottom with a 15-20 cm concrete pad so that water does not seep into the ground.
For walls, you can use reinforced concrete rings, ready-made plastic structures or lay them yourself from bricks.
At the end of the masonry of the walls, carefully seal up all the seams.
Finish the inner part of the walls of the well twice with bitumen.
By the same principle, make a second camera, connecting them together.
The third chamber will be the same, only without the bottom. At the bottom of the well, about 50 cm of sand and gravel are poured to filter the water.

Ready. Now draining the water is not a problem for you. Your private house can have any of the three forms of sewerage offered by us. You only need to choose the most suitable option for your home and do it yourself.

How to drain water in a private house

Preparatory work

Are the materials ready? We begin installation work.

Internal sewerage

Sewer pipe laying

External sewerage

So we reached the cesspool. It can be of several types and classifications, with a bottom or without a bottom, respectively, ecological or polluting the environment.

You can use a pit without a bottom only if the flow volume is small (within 1 cubic meter per day) and if the points with drinking water are not closer than 50 meters from it.

Overflow sewerage in a private house

You can also build a sewer system with your own hands in a private house by processing wastewater, that is, a septic tank. In order to make a three-chamber septic tank, you must follow several rules:

The place for the septic tank is chosen lower than drinking water, at a distance of at least 50 m from the well.

There must be at least two meters to the fence.
There must be a place for the entry of sewage equipment.
Dig a hole with a volume of more than 3 drainage rates per day.
Fill the bottom with a 15-20 cm concrete pad so that water does not seep into the ground.
For walls, you can use reinforced concrete rings, ready-made plastic structures or lay them yourself from bricks.
At the end of the masonry of the walls, carefully seal up all the seams.
Finish the inner part of the walls of the well twice with bitumen.
By the same principle, make a second camera, connecting them together.
The third chamber will be the same, only without the bottom. At the bottom of the well, about 50 cm of sand and gravel are poured to filter the water.

We do the drainage of water in a private house with our own hands - An easy matter

We do water drainage in a private house with our own hands How to drain water in a private house Do you have a private house or cottage outside the city? You have to take out a full bucket of water every time from under

How to make a drain pit: requirements for the structure and an example of construction with your own hands

People tend to go outside the metropolis, to the dacha, in order to be closer to nature, fresh air and land. But one unpleasant discovery awaits them there - the absence of the usual urban amenities, one of which is the sewage system. There is no centralized system, traditional for the city, so for a comfortable stay you have to lay sewage pipes and get acquainted with such a concept as a drain pit in a private house.

The principle of operation of the country sewerage

The modern dacha is fundamentally different from the village houses of the last century. Household citizens replaced the toilets hastily assembled in the courtyard with comfortable toilets, installed showers, baths, washing machines and dishwashers in their homes. The question arose: where should the dirty used water flow?

This is how an elementary sewerage system appeared: a set of outlet pipes that lead to a storage device installed in a summer cottage outside the building. Various structures can act as a storage device: an expensive biological treatment plant, a simpler device - a septic tank or a cesspool, known since ancient times. Waste and waste water through pipes enter the storage tank, from where they are removed by special equipment at different intervals.

Most vacationers, especially those who spend only their summer vacation at their dachas, dream of installing a suitable drive quickly and cheaply. The ideal option in this case is a do-it-yourself drain pit. It will take several days to build it and a minimum of costs - mainly, improvised material: bricks, boards, cement.

Drive volume calculation

Before digging a pit, it is necessary to determine its dimensions, as well as the approximate volume of wastewater. It is generally accepted that 0.5 m³ of the total volume of the pit should be allocated for each tenant. But you need to take into account the uncalculable water consumption during water procedures and the use of household appliances, therefore, for a family of 4 people, a tank of at least 6 m³ is required.

The size of the structure depends on the volume of incoming wastewater, but there are certain boundaries. For example, the depth of the dacha drainage pit should not exceed three meters, otherwise the sewage equipment simply will not cope with cleaning. The width is usually 1-1.5 m, the length is 2.5-3 m.

Attention! The ground level must be at least 1 meter higher than the filling level of the pit. This is a kind of insurance against sewage spills beyond the boundaries of the pit.

Choosing a suitable construction site

It is important not to be mistaken in choosing a location. The question arises: how to properly make a pit for a drain pit so that sanitary standards are not violated?

There are a number of rules:

The minimum distance from home to the drive is 5 m.
The distance to the nearest water source is 30 m or more.
The pit should be located in an open area not fenced off by buildings or fences.
A prerequisite is a good driveway for the sewer truck.

It is necessary to consider the drain pit as an object of increased danger, therefore, the playground and recreation areas should be located on the other side of the house.

An example of the construction of a brick pit

Stage # 1 - excavation and foundation

Digging a pit is a difficult and time-consuming process, so if possible, it is better to use an excavator. The most convenient form is considered to be rectangular or square, but pits and cylindrical configurations can also be found. During digging, the condition of the walls should be monitored: they must be level and protected from shedding.

The features of the drain pit device largely depend on the material. Let's take a closer look at the construction of a red brick drive with a concrete bottom.

The bottom of the tank should be slightly tilted towards the hatch for effective cleaning. The bottom layer is a 15 cm sand cushion, then a layer of concrete, and finally a cement-sand screed.

Attention! Instead of a multi-layer base, a reinforced concrete slab of suitable dimensions can be installed on the bottom.

Stage # 2 - building walls

The material for the construction of the walls is red brick, the mortar for laying is a mixture of sand and clay, which will later play the role of plaster. The laying is done in the traditional way - with the brick shifting by half in the next row. The minimum thickness of the masonry is 0.25 m. The brick walls are partially permeable to water, but how to make the drain pit hermetically sealed? And it's very simple - you need to use bituminous mastic or a similar waterproofing solution.

Attention! Only completely dry walls are covered with bitumen-based mastics.

Stage # 3 - overlap installation

The most durable is the reinforced concrete floor. Wood and plastic will not work as they have too short a lifespan. It is better if the upper part of the structure is blocked from the sides by 0.3 m. The pumping hole should be located in the upper part, but not in the center, but on the side of the slope of the base. The construction for a concrete slab is created in several stages. The first layer of mortar (5-7 cm) is poured, then iron rods are laid on it, and the top is covered with a second layer of concrete. When the overlap is completely hardened, it must be masked: covered with a thick film and covered with soil. Only the hatch should be visible from the ground.

As you can see, it is not difficult to make a drain pit made of brick; basic skills in laying and processing walls are enough.

Advantages and disadvantages of the structure

The benefits of a waste tank include the following factors:

Ease of installation and maintenance. A hole can be dug and refined on your own, and to clean it, it is enough to call a flusher.
Independence of installation from the type of soil. In sandy soil, a clay castle is used for greater strength.
Protection of groundwater from pollution. The concrete bottom and brick walls prevent drains from entering the ground, but if they seep, soil bacteria will cope with cleaning.

Before digging a storage drainage pit, you should consider its negative sides. One of the tangible troubles is the occasional smell of sewage. Regular cleaning will help fix this problem.

It is necessary to get used to frequent visits to sewers - 1-2 times a week. Only with frequent cleaning of the pit does not siltation occur. The service life of a brick storage is no more than 15 years, since the masonry slowly collapses under the influence of water. If, for some reason, the cesspool ceases to suit, you can install a more functional septic tank that produces mechanical and bacteriological wastewater treatment.

How to make a drain pit in a private house: do it yourself

The principle of operation of the drain pit. DIY brick drive. The advantages and disadvantages of the structure. How to calculate everything correctly in order to correctly arrange the sewage system in a private house.

How to drain from the roof with your own hands

When you have built a house or a summer cottage for yourself, you have begun to equip it, then you will definitely need to drain drains from the roof. This problem will make itself felt immediately after the first rain, since all the water from the roof will pour onto the steps, foundations and even walls, which is not good at all. Your task is to build a system for draining water from the roof, that is, a drain. There are two options: buy a ready-made structure or design it yourself. The first method is much cheaper and will save money, however, you have to make some effort. It is necessary to choose what material the future drain will be made of, what shape it will be, and where all the water should flow. You can figure out all these nuances by reading our article. Moreover, we will consider why a drain is needed, in particular what functions it performs, what are the requirements for these elements, what it consists of and, directly, how to make a drain from the roof with your own hands. Let's find out about everything in detail.

And yet why

The drain is an important part of the design of the entire home. Its presence is very important for several reasons. You can probably see a house that does not have a drainage system on the roof only at the construction stage, since this system is usually done first. And all due to the fact that it performs important functions:

Protective function. Thanks to the drain, precipitation does not fall on the walls, foundation, steps and blind area. This is the main purpose of the plum. When he is absent, the basement of the house will simply collapse within 5-10 years. Water will fall on the foundation, going into the ground, as a result of which the foundation will erode. Moreover, water marks, smudges and stains can form on the walls, which will spoil the aesthetic appearance of the entire building. And the steps of the porch will collapse over time.
Collection of rainwater from the roof. This is especially important for owners of a large vegetable garden or garden, because it is very good to water plants with rainwater. If the drain pipe is taken into a special container, barrel or large tank, then after a good rain you will have an additional source of water. This is beneficial not only for the soil, but also for your wallet. The presence of such technical water will not hurt anyone.
An element of your home decor. If you make a beautiful ebb tide with your own hands, then you can complement the overall picture of the house, giving it a complete look.

All this makes the drainage system an important part of the entire building. Of course, you can do without it in some cases, but this is fraught with undesirable consequences.

It is worth noting that it is also impossible to make a drain on a fast hand, so that it functions correctly and for a long time, you need to comply with some requirements:

The product must have high strength, resistance to various mechanical deformations and high loads. It must withstand strong gusts of wind, hail, the weight of the thickness of snow in winter, etc.;
Durability. The material must be resistant to various external factors, corrosion from water, withstand temperature extremes and precipitation.
Last but not least, a good appearance, because no one wants one detail to spoil the entire facade.

It is important to comply with all these requirements, then your efforts will not be in vain. But what material can you make a drain from, and which one will be better? Let's find out.

Materials for making

The water drainage system is made of various materials that differ in their characteristics and price. There are two main materials for the manufacture of gutters:

These are the most common materials from which you can make your own drainage. If we talk about metal, then it is more expensive than plastic due to its strength. When making a drain, it is additionally coated with an anti-corrosion agent and a decorative coating, because, as you know, the disadvantage of metal is its tendency to corrosion. In addition, during operation, the metal drain from time to time needs to be additionally treated with the same means so that it does not rust from damage, dents and scratches that may occur during operation.

If you want to make a metal structure, it is better to choose the following:

To make a drain from galvanized steel, you need to purchase it in sheets, the thickness of which reaches 1 mm. For additional protection of the material against corrosion, choose a material coated with polymers: polyester, plastisol or pural.

The aluminum construction is quite light, which is its advantage. The sheet thickness can be from 0.8 mm to 1 mm. A special varnish is used to protect the material. It not only protects aluminum but also improves its appearance. Such structures serve for a long time, and if aluminum does not come into contact with other metals, rust will not form on it.

The advantage of copper products is that they do not need to be further processed. Such an ebb is considered more durable, beautiful and of high quality, it is ideal for making a water drainage system if your roof is not made of another metal. Copper, like aluminum, should not come into contact with other metals. The only negative is the high price of the material.

Note! During operation, copper becomes covered with a greenish bloom - a patina.

Plastic elements are another matter. They do not need additional processing, are more durable and do not corrode. Increased strength, durability, quietness and UV resistance are all features that have made plastisol and polyester prime materials ideal for casting. Gutters made of plastic have another advantage - polymers can be of different colors, so you can choose one that matches the color scheme for your home.

Note! It is worth noting that the price of plastic is much lower than that of metal, so polymer plums will cost you less.

If we talk about the disadvantages of the material, then there is one significant one: at low temperatures the plastic becomes brittle. And, despite various additives in production, in severe frosts, plastic can crack, which will break the tightness of the entire system. However, if you live in a region with a temperate climate, this disadvantage will not bother you.

Considering all of the above, you can decide which material to choose for the manufacture of water drainage from the roof of the house. Before we start making the ebb, let's find out what elements it consists of and how it works.

Components of a water drainage system

First, you need to determine what exactly to make, because the drainage system consists of various elements:

Chute. One of the main elements of the entire structure. It serves to collect water from the roof slopes. It can be round or square and is mounted horizontally from the bottom of the roof overhang. The size of the gutter depends on the area of the slope that it will serve.
Pipe. A vertical part of the structure that allows you to drain water to the place you need, whether it is a drainage system or a container for collecting rainwater. The pipes are attached to the wall of the building.
Rainwater receiver or funnel. The element that connects the gutter to the pipe.
Turns and corners. Structural elements that allow you to walk around the house, various protruding elements, etc. Thanks to them, it is also possible to mount the pipe at various distances from the wall of the house.
Plugs. In those places where a funnel and pipe are not provided, a plug is installed.
Gutter connection. When the wall is long, the gutters are connected to each other with special connecting elements.
Fasteners for pipes and gutters, allowing these elements to be firmly fixed to the wall.
Leaf trap. Sometimes a trap is mounted in the system that looks like a lattice. Thanks to her, the leaves do not penetrate into the system and do not clog it. You just have to periodically remove the leaves from the trap.

As they say, it is better to see once than hear a hundred times, so below is a diagram in which you can clearly see all the components of the system.

How to find out how much material is needed for work

Before starting work, one more question must be resolved. It is necessary to decide how much material to buy for the construction of the drain, so that you do not have to spend money on delivery again. Yes, and excess material can lie as a dead weight for a long time, until you decide to use it in the construction of some kind of outbuilding.

So, how to correctly calculate the amount of material needed to create a drain. In fact, everything is not as complicated as it seems. To work, you need to arm yourself with a tape measure over 5 m, a pencil or pen, and a notepad for notes. It all starts with the fact that with the help of a tape measure the total footage of all gutters along the perimeter is calculated. The resulting number will tell you how many meters of material is needed for the gutters. Write down all the data so as not to forget anything. And, of course, do not take the material with an accuracy of a centimeter, a small margin is required.

Note! The cross-section of the gutters can be of two types: round and square. Which type to choose depends on your own preference. Only now it is worth noting that it is easier to care for round products, since they are easy to clean. The square shape does not allow thorough cleaning of dirt in the corners.

Now you need to figure out how many funnels will go to the system. Making it even easier. Usually one funnel is installed on the gutter every 10 m. If the house is small, then often funnels are placed simply at its corners. If the length of one of the walls of your home exceeds 10 m, professionals recommend making several drain points. The number of funnels should also be recorded.

You don't even need to calculate how many pipes are required, since this number will be equal to the number of funnels. All you need to do is measure the distance from the roof to the ground or the place where you want to drain the water in order to find out the required length of the pipe itself.

Turns and knees are calculated strictly individually according to the design features of the facade of the house. It all depends on the number of corners, obstacles and turns to be traversed. Consider the desired distance of the pipes from the walls.

Upon completion of all calculations, you need to find out the required number of fasteners: brackets and clamps. The brackets will fix the drainage gutters in increments of 60–80 cm. It is necessary to divide the total length of the gutters by the distance between the brackets. This will tell you exactly how many pieces you need. As for the clamps with which the pipes will be attached to the walls, it is definitely difficult to say something. Basically, 2-3 clamps are enough for one pipe, it depends on the height of the wall. Look at the number of pipes in your drainage system and determine the number of clamps.

That's all, the calculation is over. This was the easiest stage in the construction of the drain, it will be much more difficult to mount it. Now you just have to look at your notes, and go with them to the store to purchase all the necessary material. When everything is ready, you can get to work.

How to make a drain from the roof yourself

Consider how to make your own plastic pipe drain, as this is the simplest and most effective option. As practice has shown, the best materials for this business are plastic sewer and ventilation pipes.

To work, you need the following tools:

Bulgarian.
Screwdriver or screwdriver.
Roulette.
Cord or thread.
Self-tapping screws.
Sandpaper.
Level and plumb line.
Marker.
Silicone sealant.
Scaffolding or ladder.

And as materials you need to purchase:

Plastic pipes with a diameter of 80, 90 or 110 mm, from which the gutters will be made. They are cut in half.
Plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, which will act as vertical drain pipes.
Plastic fittings, which will be the funnels, connecting the gutter and the riser.
Drainage corners and elbows, thanks to which the gutters can bend around the corners of the building, as well as change the direction of the vertical drain pipes to the desired location.
Plastic pipe plugs, which will also have to be cut in half.
Plastic brackets and metal clamps.

First of all, you need to decide on the cross-section of the pipes, which depends on the area of the roof itself. There is a special calculation formula by which you can find out the required diameter. If the area of the roof slope is 50 m 2 or less, then it is better to use pipes with a diameter of 80 mm. When the roof slope area is 125 m 2 or less, then 90 mm pipes are selected. And when the roof slope area is more than 125 m 2, a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is required.

Note! You will also need funnels, sockets and adapters, but their diameter is determined based on the diameter of the pipe that departs from the gutter.

Now we will make the gutters - this is the hardest job that requires precision and correct calculation. Pipes will be used as gutters, which need to be dissolved in half in length. Cutting them will be easy, but making it straight is difficult. From one pipe, you get two identical gutters. Here's what you need to do:

Take a pipe of the correct diameter and place it on the boards. For the convenience of work, fix the pipe with a self-tapping screw to the board.
At the very top, on the front side of the pipe, stepping back a few centimeters, screw a self-tapping screw into it exactly in the middle. Do the same on the other side. It is not necessary to tighten the screws to the end.
Pull the thread between them. Make sure everything is smooth.
Now use a marker to mark the cut line on the pipe.
Remove the thread and, focusing on the markings, start sawing the pipe with a grinder. For safety reasons, wear protective goggles. Make sure to cut the pipe straight, as this will affect the overall appearance of the gutters.
It remains to do exactly the same on the opposite side of the pipe. Only now the pipe is fixed to the board in two places, since, having cut the pipe, you made two separate parts of it.
Depending on the number of grooves required, cut all the pipes intended for this purpose.
Using sandpaper, sand the cut points on the pipes.

This is how you can make your own gutters, which will become the basis for the drainage system. Now you just need to connect the elements of the gutters together, taking into account the required length on each wall. Ready-made gutters will be connected to one another using self-tapping screws. Since these are sewer pipes, one end of which is wider, they can be connected very simply;

One gutter is inserted into the other with an overlap of 5-10 cm.
Using a screwdriver or self-tapping screw, fasten them to each other in three places: on the sides and bottom.
The finished mount can be greased with silicone sealant to prevent water leakage.
To make corner gutters, take a knee and cut it in half using the method you already know.
At this stage, in the places where the vertical pipes will be located, it is necessary to insert the plastic fitting and fix it with self-tapping screws. Again, you need to cover the junction with a sealant.

Note! When connecting the elements to each other, do not screw in the screws too tight, so that the joints are slightly mobile. Thanks to this, the structure will walk under the influence of wind and various temperatures without collapsing.

We can say that your roof drainage system is ready, all that remains is to put everything together and install it at the intended place.

Installation rules for drainage system

Before installing your homemade design, it is important to familiarize yourself with some rules for installing water drainage elements. They concern not only plastic products, but also any others. Compliance with these rules is very important, since thanks to them, the structure will fold for a long time and correctly perform its functions.

The installation of gutters around the perimeter of the house should be carried out on the frontal strip of the cornice, the edge of the rafter system, directly on the roof. Better to choose the first two methods. But, it is worth noting that it will be easy to implement them in the case when the drainage system is installed at the stage of building a house, before the roofing material is laid. If you have already completely built your house or summer cottage, you can attach the gutters to the edge of the roof.
When metal pipes are used as gutters, the brackets must be spaced at a distance of 80 cm to 1.5 m. If the gutters are made of plastic, the minimum distance is 60–80 cm.
The gutters need to be fixed so that they easily catch the flow of running water. To do this, it is necessary to retreat from the edge of the roof by a third of the section of the pipe, so that two-thirds of the gutters protrude, and water flows clearly into them.
To prevent water from accumulating in the gutters, they must be installed with a slope towards the funnel. For every 1 m of length, the slope should be 3-5 mm. This will be enough for the water to flow down unhindered into the funnel.
The distance of the top edge of the gutter from the edge of the roof must be at least 30 mm. If this requirement is not met, the entire structure can be torn off by a mass of snow or ice that will come off the roof.
It is important to ensure that the joints are well sealed so that water does not seep through them. To do this, you can use either a sealant or a pipe seal - rubber band. It needs to be cut into two parts and put on the junction, where it will be screwed on with self-tapping screws. It will also serve as a thermal gap, which is required for the structure to be movable.

These are all the rules that you need to follow when installing a water drainage system. Now all that remains is to put everything into practice!

Installation of a system from sewer pipes

First you need to choose a starting point, that is, a place from where you will start work. Since the work will be carried out at a height, take a ladder and check if it is reliable. You should be especially careful, as gravity can play a cruel joke. The installation process itself is not entirely complicated, following the instructions, it can be performed by any amateur builder. So let's go through everything in stages:

That's all, now all the same needs to be done around the entire perimeter.

The roof drainage system is ready. Most importantly, you spent a minimum of money on its purchase, since you made it yourself.

You can make a homemade mesh grid to protect your system from foliage. It will take a certain number of meters of mesh, which must be cut into strips of such a width so that, by rolling it into a cylinder, you can get a diameter slightly less than the diameter of the gutter pipe itself. Make these cylinders and place them in the grooves, securing them securely there. This will protect the structure from all kinds of debris.

Advantages of a drain from sewer pipes

Why did we consider a structure made of plastic pipes? There are several reasons for this. One of them is that it is easiest to do it yourself. As you yourself noticed, there are no particular difficulties during assembly, and the process itself is quite simple. The plastic system has several advantages:

Low price. If you are on a tight budget, this is the perfect option for you. Since the material and all the additional elements cost a little, and no one has to pay for the work, you can afford it.
Large assortment of goods. In hardware stores, you can buy pipes of different diameters and colors, fittings, elbows and fasteners.
Low weight. Thanks to this, you can easily transport the pipes, and more importantly, put them in place. All the work can be done by yourself, without the help of friends or relatives (this will allow you to do without the magarych).
Plastic is easy to work with. The pipes are simply cut with a grinder or a hand saw. Everything is cut like clockwork. Therefore, you don't have to make any special efforts to cut the pipe in half.
Sewer pipes do not corrode, are resistant to temperature fluctuations and ultraviolet rays.

How to make a drain from the roof with your own hands - making ebb tides for the roof

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