What are walls made of? Modern materials for walls. Water based paints

Ligation of bricks

a.
b.
Chain (two-row):
a - cut
b - facade a.
b.
Spoon (multi-row):
a - cut
b - facade Masonry schemes

With air layers With internal insulation Brick walls of the well masonry

Of bonded bricks arranged in a checkerboard pattern Of bonded bricks located in the same plane With horizontal diaphragms made of cement-sand mortar
Axonometry of well masonry Brick wall with lightweight concrete infill

vertical section Examples of plinth designs

From concrete stones to pruning
lined with stone blocks
Brick with a tint
lined with bricks Cornice designs

hemmed On a portable filly Brick With precast concrete slab Vertical section of an exterior wall using wood

Types of cobbled and chopped walls Wall connections and cuts

Cutting log walls "in the paw"
Gusset cobbled walls "in oblo" Corner connection of cobbled walls on a dowel
Conjugation of the inner and outer wall

So, dear reader, the outlines of your house have already been visibly marked by a foundation, arranged for all supporting vertical structures (walls, columns, partitions). New worries and troubles arise. First of all - about the walls of the house. You already know from the project what kind of material, constructive solution, size they are supposed to be. But a lot seems unclear. So let's talk about the walls. The choice of materials and wall structures depends on the climatic conditions of the place, on the purpose and temperature and humidity conditions of the enclosed premises, the number of storeys of the building, the availability of local building materials and their technical and economic indicators, taking into account the distance of transportation, on the appearance and architectural design of the facades of the house.

In Russia, for a long time, for the construction of civil buildings, churches, monasteries and other structures, wooden, stone, and later brick structures. Beautiful mansions, hipped and many-domed churches, beautiful and original, were created. Suffice it to mention the magnificent St. Basil's Cathedral made of bricks ( correct name- "The Intercession Cathedral, which is on the moat", 1555-1560). No less wonderful and amazing achievement is the wooden construction of the 22-domed church (1714) of the Transfiguration of the Savior on the Kizhi churchyard.

Of course, in the old days, when there were no heat engineering calculations, the thickness of the walls was often excessively large. For modern low-rise cottage construction, in addition to traditional stone, brick and wooden walls New solutions use more efficient materials and design solutions: lightweight concrete, ceramic, lightweight, layered brickwork, wooden frame, panel and others with the use of lightweight insulation. These structures can significantly reduce the weight of the walls, improve their economic performance, and speed up construction.

Let's get acquainted with the basic requirements for the walls. The selected wall design must have the same durability as the house as a whole, and perform two main functions: protecting from the adverse effects of the external environment (rain, snow, wind, sun, overheating) and bearing - to withstand the load (weight) transferred to them from overlying structures, equipment, furniture.

Depending on the location in the building, the walls are of two types: external and internal. The latter also serve as barriers.

External walls must have sufficient (according to relevant standards) heat-shielding qualities: design resistance to heat transfer (frost resistance in winter, protection from overheating by the sun in summer), vapor permeability and air permeability, that is, they must provide the necessary temperature and humidity conditions in the premises at any time of the year. Depending on the required degree of fire resistance of the house, the walls must have a flammability group and a fire resistance limit not lower than those established by fire safety standards. Both external and internal walls must have sufficient (according to relevant standards) soundproofing properties.

These and some other requirements, which should be taken into account when choosing a project and coordinating the designs of different elements of the house, are sometimes contradictory. It is necessary to choose materials and designs that meet, as far as possible, all technical requirements and the most economical solutions. According to the constructive solution, the walls can be divided into solid, consisting of a homogeneous material and solid, consisting of various materials. The former perform simultaneously both enclosing and supporting functions, and the latter either carrying or enclosing functions.

Let us first consider the construction of stone walls, most often used in cottage construction - from brick, concrete, ceramics, as well as from sandstone, limestone, shell rock. In stone low-rise buildings, the own weight of the walls together with the foundations is 50-70% of the total weight of the building, and the cost of the walls is up to 30% (with simple architectural details) of the cost of the entire building. This shows how important it is to skillfully choose the type of walls, especially the outer ones.

brick walls

They are laid out from artificial stones - with a nominal size of 250 120 65 mm, without tolerances of 3-5 mm. Bricks are laid with the long side (25 mm) along the facade (along the wall) and are called spoons, or the short side - across the wall - and are called pokes. The gaps between bricks filled with mortar are called seams. The normal thickness of the horizontal seam (between rows) is 2 mm, vertical (between bricks) - 10 mm. Often, builders use much thicker seams, which is highly undesirable, because this reduces the heat-shielding qualities and strength of the wall and violates the modularity of dimensions.

In cottage construction, solid bricks are used, ordinary or clay red, fired with a bulk weight of 1700-1900 kg / m 3 and less expensive silicate or white (bulk weight - 1800-2000 kg / m 3). For the convenience of work, the weight of one (solid) brick is from 3.2 to 4 kg. The thickness of homogeneous (solid) brick walls is always a multiple of half a brick and is raised to 1/2; one; 1 1/2; 2; 2 1/2 bricks, etc. Given the thickness of the vertical joints of 10 mm, brick walls have a thickness of 120, 250, 380, 510, 640 mm and more. It depends primarily on the winter calculated outdoor temperatures.

The placement of bricks in the masonry of the walls is carried out with a certain alternation of spoon and bond rows in order to obtain a dressing of vertical seams.

The most widespread are two-row (chain and Russian) and multi-row (spoon) masonry systems. In the double row, the spoon rows alternate with the bond rows, forming, as it were, two repeating chains of rows on the facade.

In a multi-row system, three to five spoon rows alternate with one bond row. The outer and inner parts of the walls are laid from whole bricks by a qualified bricklayer, and the middle of the backfill (backfill) is filled with broken bricks and poured with a liquid mortar. This method of masonry is simpler than chain laying, so labor productivity is higher, and a larger amount of filling reduces the cost. Before laying, the brick must be moistened, for example, by dipping it in a bucket of water. Indeed, otherwise, especially on hot days, water from the mortar will be absorbed into the bricks, poorly binding them together, creating conditions for the destruction of the wall.

Some types of bricks, ceramic and lightweight concrete stones, small concrete blocks (solid or with vertical voids) are somewhat larger than ordinary bricks. For example, their height can be 88, 140, 188 mm in order to link individual matching horizontal rows and seams when laying together with ordinary red brick lining.

When laying a wall of stones with slot-like voids, it is necessary to lay out the stones so that the slots are parallel to the wall, that is, perpendicular to the heat flow. Wall masonry from natural stone, which are given the correct, larger than brick, shape (by sawing or cutting), is carried out according to the chain system, mainly for unheated buildings in areas where this stone is a local building material.

Solid bricks are strong, but in terms of their heat-shielding qualities they are significantly inferior to effective multi-hole and scutching, more porous bricks (bulk weight - 1100-1300 kg / m 3). Brick grades 50-150 are used; mortar grades (binder) from 10 (lime) to 25 (cement) for different types masonry and structural elements. Masonry is carried out on heavy volumetric weight of more than 1500 kg / m 3), the so-called cold (cement-lime, sand) or light (slag), warm solutions. Solid masonry of walls made of solid brick with a thickness of more than 380 mm is considered impractical, because such dimensions of the brick, its large volumetric weight (mass) make solid masonry uneconomical. The thickness of the outer wall of cottages, which is assigned according to heat engineering calculations, is excessive in terms of strength. It is sometimes used only for 15-20% of its bearing capacity. Therefore, in cottage houses, lighter, more efficient bricks, heterogeneous (layered or lightweight) systems are used. wall masonry, and also ceramic and lightweight concrete stones.

Laying of silicate bricks, which have a smoother surface than clay ones, is usually carried out without external plaster and with jointing. The same solution can be recommended for red brick masonry using a special facing clay brick.

The combination of masonry made of clay red and silicate white bricks can give an interesting artistic solution facades. However, silicate brick should not be used in places subject to increased moisture, such as a cornice, basement. In rooms with wet processes (bathrooms, swimming pools), the laying of walls and partitions should be solid from solid clay bricks of plastic pressing.

A common and economical design of external walls is the so-called well masonry, in which the wall is laid out from two independent walls half a brick thick (external, verst and internal), interconnected by vertical brick bridges every 0.6-1.2 m, forming closed wells . During laying, wells are filled with insulation: slag, expanded clay, lightweight concrete with compaction. So that the insulation does not sag over time, versts are connected by horizontal jumpers through 3-4 rows: bonded rows, mortar diaphragms in height after 0.5 m, anchors made of strip (1.5-20 mm) or round (diameter 6-8 mm) steel coated with anti-corrosion compounds (cement milk, bitumen).

More industrial and faster work are masonry systems in which the wall insulation is replaced by less microscopic thermal inserts made of cinder concrete, foam concrete, foam silicate. The width of the thermal inserts at 40-50 mm less distance between versts to form gaps that are filled with mortar.

Quite economical are solid brick masonry, consisting of two walls with closed air gaps 40-70 mm wide. At the same time, brick consumption is reduced by 10-15%; the outer wall consists of spoon rows of half a brick, and the inner wall, depending on the required thermal protection, is 250 or 380 mm. The walls are connected by the above methods, plastered outside to reduce air infiltration. When filling the air cavities with mineral felt, the thermal efficiency of the wall increases by 30-40%.

To improve the thermal insulation qualities of walls, it is also possible to use thermal insulation boards(plasterboard, foam concrete, wood-shaving), installed on wooden (necessarily antiseptic) bars, mortar beacons and in another way from the inside. For thermal insulation and airtightness, it is recommended to paste over the inner side of the slabs facing the masonry with aluminum foil, kraft paper, etc. In a similar way, the walls are sheathed from the inside with boards. Tiled insulation can be attached to the wall directly on the mortar. The outer surfaces of walls insulated from the inside also need to be plastered.

An important note, dear reader. Internal load-bearing walls and load-bearing partitions (on which beams or floor slabs rest) should be laid out from solid clay or silicate bricks, with a minimum completely sufficient (!) Wall thickness of 250 mm (sometimes 120 mm). The cross section of the pillars must be at least 380 380 mm. At high loads (specify in place), the bearing pillars and piers should be reinforced with a wire mesh with a diameter of 3-6 mm through 3-5 rows of masonry in height. Partitions are laid out with a thickness of 120 mm and 65 mm (brick "on edge"). With a length of such partitions of more than 1.5 m, they should also be reinforced after 3-5 rows.

Load-bearing partitions can be built (except for rooms with wet processes) from lightweight concrete, gypsum concrete and other slabs, usually 80 mm thick, from boards and other materials suitable for local conditions, using an appropriate finish.

For facade cladding, which is carried out simultaneously with the laying of walls, it is best to use front ceramic brick, which is somewhat more expensive than usual, but in appearance, texture, color and tolerances in size, is the highest quality. This eliminates the need for painting for three to four years.

The laying of external walls should begin from the corners of the building. From the outer verst. For better observance of the straightness of the walls and evenness, horizontality of the rows of masonry, it is necessary to use a plumb line, a stretched mooring cord and a vertical ordering rail with marking on it of each row of bricks and a seam in height.

Wall elements

plinth - Bottom part walls from ground level to floor level, at least 500 mm high, enclosing the underground space of the house. The plinth is exposed to moisture from atmospheric and ground moisture, snow, mechanical stress, therefore, when constructing it, durable, water- and frost-resistant materials (stone, concrete, red brick-iron ore) should be used.

The outer surfaces of the plinth can have a different texture and finish; smooth and embossed, including from a thick layer cement plaster with cutting into rustications imitating stonework lined with natural stone, hard rocks, ceramic tiles on cement mortar, the composition is one part of cement to three parts of sand. At a level of about 150 mm above the adjacent blind area, a layer of anti-capillary horizontal waterproofing should be arranged around the entire perimeter of the base, consisting of two layers of roofing felt, roofing material or cement screed.

plinths layered walls should be made from solid brickwork or other durable, frost and moisture resistant materials.

Zabirka- lightweight plinth. A thin wall between the foundation pillars, under the lower part of the walls of the veranda, insulating under the full space, protecting from moisture, snow, etc. It is made of the same materials as the main wall, for example, one or half a brick; deepened into the ground by 300-500 mm. On clayey, heaving soils, a sand cushion 150-300 mm thick is arranged under the pick-up.

The cornice finishes the top of the wall and is called crowning. It is designed to protect the wall from slanting rain, excessive heating by the sun, and also to drain water flowing from the roof. In addition, the cornice usually decorates buildings, giving the composition a finished look. Therefore, its shape, height, projection and color are largely determined by the overall architectural design of the facade.

Cornices stone walls of a simple shape can be laid out by a gradual overlap of each row by no more than 1/3 of the brick length (by 80 mm). The total extension should not exceed half the thickness of the wall. With a large extension of the eaves of complex configuration, special prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs, beams, cantilevered into the wall and fixed with anchors, should be used with brackets. Often used cornices on outlets rafter legs or filly; they are open and hemmed.

Undoubtedly, various architectural details, belts, intermediate and crowning cornices introduced into the planar solution of facades can improve the aesthetic appearance of cottages. Laid out of brick or other, for example, concrete elements, but simple in design.

Smoke and ventilation ducts for low-rise buildings suit, as a rule, during internal walls ax 380 mm thick, lined with red smooth solid bricks. The cross section of these vertical channels for stoves is 140 270 mm, and ventilation - from kitchens, latrines, bathrooms - 140 140 mm.

Ventilation of living rooms - through the windows. Each stove (or fireplace) must have its own separate smoke channel. The inner surfaces of the channels for better traction should be clean and smooth, rubbed (it is important not to forget about it) with clay (not cement) mortar. Alignment and grouting of the walls is carried out with a clean wet rag when laying channels through five to six rows of bricks.

Smoke channels from different ovens in the attic combined into chimneys that lead above the roof level. If a combustible structure adjoins the wall at the location of the smoke channels, for example, wooden floor beams, then in this place the height (thickness) of the ceiling of the chimney wall (120 mm) is thickened along fire regulations up to 380 mm.

Ventilation ducts (each room has its own channel) are also combined into ventilation pipes that lead above the roof.

Other structural elements of the walls, such as lintels - horizontal, arched, arched over door and window openings, we will consider later, together with the ceilings of buildings.

Wooden walls

Wooden walls are traditional in the construction of low-rise buildings in Russia, they have excellent sanitary and hygienic properties, have low fire resistance and fragility, and are susceptible to decay.

Wooden frame, requiring a large number first-class forest, after about 30-40 years, as a rule, warps and becomes unusable. The construction of cottages with wooden solid walls in modern practice is rare. However, the arrangement of the second floor with wooden walls and the first - brick - gives good results.

Types of wooden walls: chopped log, block, frame and panel, as well as frame-panel. Frame and panel walls are used in simple prefabricated houses and garden houses. The chopped outer walls of residential buildings built in the middle climatic zone must be made of logs with a diameter of at least 220 mm, have a careful fitting (the width of the longitudinal oval groove of the upper log, into which the “hump” of the lower one is inserted, is approximately 2/3 of the log diameter).

The cutting (assembly) of log walls is carried out "dry" without tow, then the logs are marked, the log house is dismantled and already assembled on tow on the prepared foundation. Caulking should be carried out twice: the first time during assembly. The second - 1-1.5 years after the cessation of shrinkage and shrinkage of logs. A row of logs laid around the perimeter of the house is called a crown. The crowns are mated with each other with the help of plug-in wooden spikes of rectangular or large section, located along the length of the log at a distance of 150-2000 mm in a checkerboard pattern. Due to the shrinkage of logs by about 3-5%, stud nests should be made 20-30 mm deeper than the height of the studs (120-150 mm).

The connection (conjugation) of the longitudinal and transverse walls is done with the help of various kinds of cuts - “into the bowl”, “into the oblo”, “in the paw”, “pan”, etc., then insulating some of them with boards nailed on the outside.

Walls of wooden beams are erected with smaller labor costs, since all the cuts, dowels, dowels have already been made at house-building plants and factories. Therefore, an individual developer can buy and build such walls on their own.

The thickness of the bars, depending on the climatic region, that is, on the winter design temperature, is taken for external walls 150 (t \u003d -30 C) or 180 mm (t \u003d -40 C), for internal - 100 mm, with the height of the bars - the same for external and internal walls - 150 or 180 mm.

Between the crowns of the beams, a heat-insulating material is laid - a caulk of tow or felt. For better drainage of water from the horizontal seam between the bars, a chamfer 20-30 mm wide is removed (cut off) from the upper edge of each bar. Felt strips should be cut 20 mm narrower than the width of the bars. To reduce the conductivity between the bars, you can arrange grooves, cords, stuff triangular slats. For fastening crowns (beams) in height in advance drilled holes dowels and dowels are inserted (similar to those discussed above for log walls). Connections (intersections) of external walls in the corners and with internal walls are similarly constructed.

Unlike log walls, block walls are assembled into a log house immediately on prepared foundations of the usual type. To improve the protection of block walls from the biological destruction of wood and from atmospheric influences, the walls can be sheathed from the outside with boards (diameter 25-40 mm) or facing bricks (diameter 88.12 mm). This will make the walls warmer, and with brick cladding, more fire resistant. Plank sheathing is best done horizontally, which facilitates the installation of insulation. Fastening with wooden beams and metal clamps.

Sheathing and cladding of cobbled and log walls should be done after their complete settlement - not earlier than 1-1.5 years after their construction.

Diversity architectural elements and details country houses was always characteristic even in buildings built at the beginning of the 20th century.

So, dear reader, now you have become more familiar with some of the basic provisions for constructive solutions for walls.

Now you can have professional conversations with builders, choosing one or another wall design option, watching the construction progress.

External wall structures are classified according to the following criteria:

The static function of the wall, determined by its role in the structural system of the building;

Material and construction technology, determined by the construction system of the building;

Structural solution - in the form of a single-layer or layered enclosing structure.

According to the static function, they distinguish (Fig. 4.4) bearing walls (4.3), self-supporting walls(4.4) and curtain walls (4.5).

Fig.4.4. Classification of external walls by bearing capacity: a - bearing; b - self-supporting; c - non-bearing

Non-load-bearing walls are floor-by-floor supported on adjacent internal structures of the building (ceilings, walls, frame).

Bearing and self-supporting walls perceive, along with vertical and horizontal loads, being vertical elements of the rigidity of structures. In buildings with non-load-bearing external walls, the functions of vertical stiffeners are performed by the frame, internal walls, diaphragms or stiffeners.

Bearing and non-bearing external walls can be used in buildings of any number of storeys. self height bearing walls limited in order to prevent operationally unfavorable mutual displacements of self-supporting and internal load-bearing structures, accompanied by local damage to the finish of the premises and the appearance of cracks. In panel houses, for example, it is permissible to use self-supporting walls with a building height of no more than 4 floors. The stability of self-supporting walls is provided by flexible connections with internal structures.

Load-bearing external walls are used in buildings of various heights. The limiting number of storeys of a load-bearing wall depends on the bearing capacity and deformability of its material, construction, the nature of the relationship with internal structures, as well as on economic considerations. So, for example, the use of lightweight concrete panel walls is advisable in houses up to 9-12 floors high, load-bearing brick exterior walls - in mid-rise buildings, and steel lattice shell walls - in 70 - 100-story buildings.

According to the material, four main types of wall structures are distinguished: concrete, stone, non-concrete materials and wood. In accordance with the building system, each type of wall contains several types of structures: concrete walls - from monolithic concrete, large blocks or panels; stone walls - brick or from small blocks, walls from stone large blocks and panels; wooden walls - chopped, frame-panel, panel and panel.

Exterior walls can be single-layer or layered construction. Single-layer walls are built from panels, concrete or stone blocks, cast-in-place concrete, stone, brick, wooden logs or beams. In layered walls, the performance of different functions is assigned to different materials. Strength functions provide concrete, stone, wood; durability functions - concrete, stone, wood or sheet material (aluminum alloys, enameled steel, asbestos cement, etc.); thermal insulation functions - effective heaters (mineral wool boards, fibrolite, expanded polystyrene, etc.); vapor barrier functions - rolled materials (lining roofing material, foil, etc.), dense concrete or mastics; decorative functions - various facing materials. An air gap can be included in the number of layers of such a building envelope. Closed - to increase its resistance to heat transfer, ventilated - to protect the room from radiation overheating or to reduce deformations of the outer facing layer of the wall.

Study and analyze the above material and answer the proposed question.

There is no single building material for walls that would be universal. When choosing it, many factors are taken into account: these are reliability, soil characteristics, weather conditions, price range and much more. Currently, the choice of building materials is very extensive. In order for the house to be strong and durable, it is necessary to take into account not only the advantages of the raw materials from which the construction is planned, but also its shortcomings.

Building materials for walls

Good house - strong house. This is how it will be if the building material for its walls is chosen correctly.

The wall is:

• a building structure enclosing or separating some part of the territory;
• side of the building.

The walls in the house can be divided into several groups depending on the load. Among them are bearing, self-supporting, non-bearing, hinged and enclosing. All this is shown in the diagram.

The construction of the walls of the house requires the choice of a certain building material. Each of them has individual properties, has its own strengths and weaknesses. Depending on this, it finds application in the construction of walls. The use of various wall materials can be seen in the video.

The following main wall materials are distinguished:

• brick;
• wood;
• ceramic blocks;
• concrete;
• aerated concrete;
• foam concrete;
• cinder blocks;
• sip panels;
• metal structures.

All these modern materials are widely used in individual construction.

Brick walls

Brick is a traditional building material fake diamond. It has its positive and negative qualities: heat capacity, has a large bearing capacity but has a relatively high price.

Types of bricks:

1. Cob - made of clay and straw, instead of which wood shavings, chaff or horse manure are sometimes used. Used in Asian countries. In Russia, it is found in rural areas.
2. Ceramic - made from fired clay. A high-quality brick should make a ringing sound and have a uniform reddish color. Through cracks with a length of more than 4 cm are unacceptable; such a brick should be chosen for strength and frost resistance. The letter "M" denotes the strength grade. The numbers indicate the permissible compressive load in kg/cm2. The frost resistance class is indicated English letter F, the numbers indicate freezing cycles.
3. Silicate - made from sand and lime under the influence of steam at a temperature of 170 - 200 0 C. For the construction of walls, you can choose a brick of various color shades and thickness.
4. Hyperpressed - a building material made under high pressure without firing. In a small amount of cement with water, fine limestone rocks, scrap from the production of ceramic bricks, various waste from the extraction and sawing of facing stone, fine crushed stone, marble and dolomite are added. The material is as close as possible to natural stone.

Pros and cons of brick construction

Types of brick	Advantages	Flaws
adobe	Low cost	Low moisture and frost resistance
	Good sound insulation and thermal inertia	The walls dry for a long time and gain strength
Ceramic	Resistant to all climatic conditions	High price
	Low moisture absorption	Possibility of efflorescence
Silicate	Good sound insulation	High thermal conductivity
	High strength and frost resistance	High moisture absorption
hyperpressed	Resistant to aggressive environments and climatic influences	High price
	Ideal geometric shape	Requires thorough drying before laying

Walls made of foam blocks

The composition of the foam block includes sand, cement, foaming agent. It is used for the construction of load-bearing walls and interior partitions. Advantages of the foam block as a building material:

• environmentally friendly;
• perfectly retains heat;
• has the ability to "breathe" - to release water vapor to the outside;
• excellent fire resistance - resistance open fire for 8 hours;
• good moisture and frost resistance;
• excellent sound insulation;
• significantly reduces the overall construction time;

With all their significant advantages, foam blocks have their drawbacks. They are a low strength material: the wall can crack if overloaded. The water that got inside low temperatures will destroy the foam block. This can be avoided if the surface is plastered or treated with a special solution. Not all types of finishes are suitable for wall cladding made of foam blocks.

ceramic blocks

Ceramic block or porous ceramic is a material made by firing specially shaped clay blocks. There are 3 main sizes of this raw material:

№	Dimensions	Volume
1	219x250x380 mm	10.7 NF*
2	219x250x440 mm	12.4 NF
3	219x250x510 mm	14.3 NF

*NF - normal form, an indicator of the number of bricks of a given block volume.

The material is environmentally friendly and durable, like any ceramics.

Aerated concrete blocks in the construction of walls

Aerated concrete - light honeycomb material obtained from the mixture:

• lime;
• cement;
• fine-grained quartz sand;
• water;
• gas-forming reagents - aluminum powder is most often used.

Acceleration of the curing process occurs in autoclaves.

Comparison of gas silicate and foam concrete - building materials for walls, favorably emphasizes the advantage of the first.

Aerated concrete is a relatively inexpensive material, it is non-combustible, environmentally friendly and durable. Special blocks are made from it.

Modern building technologies make it possible to use different materials for walls at the same time. gas silicate blocks can be combined with brick. This will ensure high thermal conductivity of the walls.

If a person does not have enough finances for individual construction, then self-production of wall material would be appropriate.

Brick or gas block

Brick - an artificial stone with dimensions of 250x120x65 mm. It is produced by firing clay. The aerated concrete block is an artificially created stone with dimensions of 600x400x250 mm.

Comparison of brick and gas block

A wall built from a gas block is 3 times lighter than a brick one. This means that the frame will require less reinforcement. Given the ability of the building material for the walls of the house to transfer heat, the thickness of the brickwork should be greater. In terms of frost resistance - the ability of the material to maintain strength, brick is superior: it is more durable.

Aerated concrete blocks are used in the construction of walls of houses with a height of not more than 14 m. It is not recommended to build bearing structures of them. A feature of aerated concrete blocks is their high geometric accuracy. This allows for less costly laying on glue. It is faster in comparison with cement.

Walls should be built in dry, clear weather. It is forbidden to build wet rooms from cellular concrete: saunas, baths, laundries. The walls for them are made only of bricks.

Aerated concrete blocks over time after construction may decrease slightly in size, which will lead to cracks in the wall. This is not the case for bricks.

Gas blocks are easier to tool. Cutting and grinding of aerated concrete can be carried out directly on the construction site with standard hand saws. But the reliability of the brick during the installation of door and window openings much higher. The fire resistance of a brick and a gas block is approximately the same.

Aerated concrete blocks - the most cheap material. But the construction of walls requires compliance with a special technology. The services of workers for such masonry are higher than those of builders working with bricks. However, brick walls are warmer and stronger.

wooden construction

Several types of wood are used as building material: pine, spruce, larch, cedar, oak, linden. You should choose according to the properties of the tree and financial resources.

The advantage of wooden walls lies, first of all, in environmental friendliness. Wood is a natural conditioner. This house is warm in winter and cool in summer. The air in the room is updated up to 30% during the day, so it is easy to breathe in it.

When heated, cracks do not form in the walls, which cannot be said about brick house. wooden structures- the most resistant to earthquakes, do not require additional insulation.

In terms of thermal conductivity, a log with a diameter of 20 cm replaces brickwork 1 m thick. This significantly reduces the financial costs for the house and reduces the weight of the building, which is economical for the depth and width of the foundation. Its price is sometimes 1/3 of the entire value of the house. They build wooden walls very quickly at any time of the year.

The main significant disadvantage of wood as a material for building walls is a high fire hazard. The disadvantages also include susceptibility to decay, damage by fungus and wood bugs. The tree quickly collapses under the influence of the atmosphere: sun rays and moisture.

All these shortcomings are easily eliminated by specially designed chemicals. They are applied to the walls and extend the life of a wooden house.

Glued laminated timber

Glued laminated timber - the leading material in wooden construction

Glued laminated timber is one of the leading materials in wooden construction. It is assembled from separate dried boards of appropriate sizes treated with antiseptic and fire-fighting agents. Then there is gluing special formulations under high pressure. This is done in order to prevent cracking and torsion of the timber during drying.

The beam contains a special tongue-and-groove system, which allows you to assemble the walls as quickly as possible. Like many building materials for walls, it is environmentally friendly. Glued laminated timber belongs to the group of combustible materials. In the presence of protective treatment it is relatively durable.

Comparison of building materials

Comparison of wall materials by main indicators

	aerated concrete		Tree	Brick
Thermal conductivity	0,12	0,16	0,18	0,56
Strength	25	100	50	150
fire resistance	1200	1500	300	1500
Shrinkage ratio	2	0,01	10	0,01

Thermal conductivity - the ability of a material to pass heat through itself - is 3 times greater for a brick than for a ceramic and aerated concrete block. Based on the estimated cost, it can be concluded that the cheaper material is a ceramic block. To achieve the correct thermal conductivity of the wall, it is enough to insulate the wall with a special material.

The strength of aerated concrete and wood is minimal compared to other types. This suggests that building houses of more than 2 floors from these materials should not be. The strength of the ceramic block and brick allows you to build buildings of almost any height.

The shrinkage factor is expressed as a percentage. The largest one is near the tree. This means that a year after the completion of construction, the height of the wall will be reduced by 10%. Relatively low shrinkage coefficient for aerated concrete. Its low strength can cause cracking. Other materials for this indicator can be ignored.

Aerated concrete is the cheapest building material. It is widely used in individual construction.

The choice in favor of one or another wall material is formed on the basis of individual evaluation conclusions and an analysis of the characteristics of the environment.

According to the perception of loads are divided into:

• bearing
• non-bearing.

Depending on the materials used, the walls are conventionally divided into the following types:

• wooden from logs, beams, wooden frame
• brick from solid and hollow clay
• ceramic and silicate bricks and blocks
• stone from cobblestone, limestone, sandstone, shell rock, tuff, etc.,
• lightweight concrete from gas silicate, expanded clay concrete, slag concrete, argolite, sawdust concrete
• soil-concrete from adobe, compacted soil.

According to the constructive solution, the walls are:

• chopped from logs and assembled from wooden beams,
• small-block bricks and small blocks weighing more than 50 kg.,
• panel or panel finished elements walls a floor high,
• frame from racks and strapping with sheathing with sheet or molded materials,
• monolithic of concrete and soil,
• composite or multilayer using various materials and designs.

WHAT TO BUILD WALLS FROM?

In the construction of dachas and cottages for walls, the most commonly used the following materials: brick, lightweight concrete (foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, etc.), wood (beam, log) and wood with insulation (frame walls). For the construction of frame walls, a relatively new material is undeservedly rarely used - cement particle boards (DSP). Let's consider their advantages, disadvantages and construction costs (prices for April 01 will increase by summer).

When choosing a wall material, the following considerations should be taken into account.
1."Rule of uniformity" - all main walls (external and those internal on which the ceiling rests) must be built from the same material and rest on the same foundation. A combination of brick and lightweight concrete is acceptable, as well as DSP and wood when sheathing frame walls.
2.Distances between main walls(supports for wooden floor beams) should not exceed 4 m. When reinforced concrete floor(for brick walls) this distance can be increased up to 7 m.
3. Materials for building walls and their constructive solution are chosen taking into account local climatic conditions, economy, given strength and durability of the building, internal comfort and architectural expressiveness of facades.

BRICK.
Advantages.
Brick walls are very strong, refractory, not subject (unlike wood) to the action of pests and decay, and therefore are durable. They allow the use of reinforced concrete floor slabs. This is necessary if you want to build a living space above the garage or a very large room. The small size of bricks makes it possible to build walls of complex configurations from them, lay out decorative elements of the facade. Due to the fire resistance of bricks, brick walls can adjoin stoves and fireplaces; smoke and ventilation ducts can be laid inside brick walls. Brick walls have a high heat capacity and, consequently, thermal inertia - in summer it is cool behind them in any heat, in winter it is warm for a long time even after turning off the heating.

Flaws.
Brick walls have a high heat capacity and, consequently, thermal inertia, as well as relatively high thermal conductivity. Therefore, if the house has not been heated for at least two weeks in winter, it will take several days to warm it up to comfortable conditions. Brick readily absorbs moisture. Because of this, during seasonal operation, the first weeks in a brick house are damp. Bricks that have collected moisture from the atmosphere during autumn freeze through in winter, this leads (during seasonal operation) to rapid destruction - in 25 years the walls will require serious repairs. Brick walls are very heavy and do not tolerate deformations, therefore they require a strip foundation to the full depth of freezing. To ensure proper thermal insulation, brick walls must be very thick (in the Moscow region - 52 cm). In a house with a usable area of ​​50 sq. m they will take "17 sq. m - 1/3 of the area; for a house with an area of ​​​​200 sq. m, this ratio will be 1/6. After the completion of the masonry of the walls, a year must pass before they begin to be finished, the walls must "settle" before finishing

Conclusion.
It is advisable to use brick only in the construction of large cottages (several floors, floor area of ​​more than 200 sq. M), intended for year-round operation.

Advantages.
Lightweight concrete walls are refractory, not subject (unlike wooden ones) to the action of pests and decay, and therefore are durable. The relatively small size of the blocks and the ease of their processing make it possible to build walls of complex configurations from them. Due to the fire resistance of concrete, walls made of it can adjoin stoves, fireplaces and smoke channels. Concrete walls have a high heat capacity and, consequently, thermal inertia - in summer it is cool behind them in any heat, in winter it is warm for a long time even after turning off the heating. Foam concrete walls, in comparison with brick walls, have a lower heat capacity and, consequently, thermal inertia, as well as relatively low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if the house was not heated in winter, it can be warmed up to comfortable conditions in a day. The thickness of foam concrete walls can be half that of brick walls. Lining foam concrete walls on the outside with decorative bricks does not increase their weight by much, but it strengthens the walls and saves you from worrying about finishing. Block masonry is much simpler and cheaper than brick masonry.

Flaws.
Foam concrete readily absorbs moisture. The blocks that have collected moisture from the atmosphere during the autumn freeze in winter, this leads (during seasonal operation) to rapid destruction - in 25 years the walls will require serious repairs (this does not apply to expanded clay concrete, it is hydrophobic). Walls made of lightweight concrete do not tolerate deformations, therefore they require a strip foundation or foundation - a slab. After the completion of the laying of the walls, a year must pass before the start of their finishing, the walls must “settle” before the start of the finishing. On the walls of foam concrete, cracks can form during settlement.

Conclusion.
Lightweight concrete occupies an intermediate position between brick and wood, and the higher its specific gravity, the closer its properties are to those of brick. It is advisable to use it in the construction of small cottages (no more than 2 floors) and cottages intended for year-round operation.

SIMPLE BAR.
Advantages.
Timber walls have low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if the house was not heated in winter, it can be warmed up to comfortable conditions in a few hours. For timber walls 15 cm thickness is sufficient. Wooden walls create a healthy microclimate in the house, they remove excess moisture from the room. Timber walls are relatively light and resistant to deformation. They can be built on column foundation or foundation "floating columns". Wooden walls can withstand an unlimited number of freeze-thaw cycles, and therefore their service life can exceed 100 years.

Flaws.
Wooden walls are highly flammable and susceptible to insect pests and decay, and therefore require special treatment and constructive protection from moisture and fire. After the felling of wooden walls is completed, a year must pass before the start of their finishing, the walls must “settle” before the start of finishing, and the sediment (up to 10%) is much greater than that of stone or frame walls (3 - 1%). The beam deforms when it dries. Caulking timber walls is a complex and expensive procedure. In order to minimize the consequences of these troubles (deformation and poor caulking), the timber walls on the outside and inside have to be sheathed with clapboard or DSP.

Conclusion.
It is advisable to use wood in the construction of small cottages (no more than 2 floors) and summer cottages intended for seasonal or year-round use.

PROFILED BEAM, SIMPLE AND CYLINDER LOG.
Advantages.
The same as for the timber walls. Walls out simple log more durable.

Flaws.
The same as for the timber walls. In addition, walls made of these materials require careful and beautiful caulking.

Conclusion.
It is advisable to use such a tree in the construction of small cottages (no more than 2 floors) and summer cottages intended for seasonal or year-round use, when purely aesthetic considerations come first.

Advantages.
Frame walls with "double" thermal insulation made of lightweight materials (styrofoam, mineral wool, etc.) have the lowest thermal conductivity. Therefore, if the house was not heated in winter, it can be warmed up to comfortable conditions in a few hours. For frame walls, a thickness of 15 cm is sufficient. Frame walls are the lightest of all considered and resistant to deformation. They can be built on a columnar foundation or a "floating columns" foundation. Frame walls can withstand an unlimited number of freeze-thaw cycles. DSP sheathing provides protection (though not absolute) from fire and moisture. In frame houses, the most free layout of the interior is possible. The cost of funds, effort and time for the construction of frame walls is minimal. Before finishing it is not necessary to wait for "precipitation". With well-organized works, drive into frame house possible one month after the start of construction.

Flaws.
Wooden walls are highly flammable and susceptible to insect pests and decay, and therefore require special treatment and constructive protection from moisture and fire. Lining - the main material for sheathing frame walls quickly (within 1-2 years) dries out, cracks appear on the wall (if the work is done correctly, they are not through). It is believed that the service life frame houses does not exceed 30 years, however, the application modern materials can increase it significantly. An increase in the size of the house (L walls > 9m, height - > 2 floors) leads to a significant complication of the frame and a decrease in reliability. The use of siding for sheathing is unacceptable, since it "does not breathe" - it does not let water vapor through.

Conclusion.
It is advisable to use frame walls in the construction of summer cottages intended for seasonal or year-round operation.

logging for log and block walls, it is desirable to perform in winter, when the wood is less susceptible to shrinkage, decay and warping. For walls, coniferous trees are cut, having a straight trunk with a run-off of not more than 1 cm per 1 m of length. The diameter of the logs is chosen as identical as possible with a difference between the upper and lower cut of no more than 3 cm. The thickness (diameter) of the logs is determined by the width required for climatic conditions longitudinal groove. At an estimated outdoor temperature of - 20 0C, it should be at least 10 cm, at - 300C - at least 12 cm, at - 400C - about 14-16 cm. The width of the groove is approximately 2/3 of the log diameter. The length of the logs is determined in accordance with the dimensions and layout of the house, taking into account the necessary allowance when cutting a log house with the rest (into a "cup"). When cutting walls, freshly cut logs with an average moisture content of 80-90% are used. They are easier to process and less deformed during natural drying when assembled. With a decrease in humidity to 15% (operational humidity in the conditions of the middle zone of the country), the wood dries out and the dimensions of the logs decrease in the longitudinal direction by about 0.1, in the transverse direction - by 3-6%.

Cabin of log walls usually performed near the installation site, laying the logs "dry" without tow. After the felling is completed, the walls must "stand" in assembled form (for 6-9 months, the moisture content of the wood decreases by 3-5 times), then the logs are marked, the frame is rolled out and assembled already on tow, on pre-prepared foundations. During drying and operation, chopped walls shrink significantly, reaching 1:20-1:30 of the original height of the log house, therefore, a gap of 6-10 cm is left above the window and door frames (depending on the moisture content of the logs). The seams between the logs are caulked 2 times : the first time in the rough after the construction of the house, the second - after 1-1.5 years - after the final settlement of the walls.

Wall cutting begins from the laying of the first (overhead) crown of thicker logs, hewn into two edges: one - from the bottom side, the second - from the inside. Since the logs in the longitudinal and transverse walls are displaced relative to each other by half their height, the first crown on two opposite walls is laid either on backing bars or plates, or on an uneven plinth. For the best organization drain (with a protruding plinth) under the first crown, antiseptic boards are placed along the waterproofing layer, to which galvanized roofing steel is attached. The width of the lower edge of the overlay crown is at least 15 cm. Each subsequent crown of the frame is riveted to the previous one through a semicircular groove, selected from the bottom side of each log. To give the walls stability, the crowns are connected to each other with vertical plug-in spikes of a rectangular (6x2 cm) or round (3-4 cm) section 10-12 cm high, placing them in each row in a checkerboard pattern after 1-1.5 m . along the length of the log house; in the piers it is necessary to have at least two spikes at a distance of 15-20 cm from the edges. Holes for spikes in height should have a margin for draft, i.e., be 1.5-2 cm more than the height of the spikes. Logs in a log house are stacked alternately with butts in different directions in order to maintain the overall horizontality of the rows. In the corners, the logs are connected in two ways: with the remainder (in the "cup") and without residue (in the "paw"). The intersection of the outer walls with the inner ones is also carried out in a "cup" or in a "paw". When cutting into a "cup", about 0.5 m is lost on each log due to corner residues. In addition, the protruding ends of the logs prevent subsequent cladding or outer skin walls. Cutting into the "paw" is more economical, but requires more highly skilled and accurate work.

Bar walls are erected with less labor costs, and highly qualified specialists are not required. An individual developer, having ready-made beams, can do this work on his own. Unlike log walls, block walls are assembled immediately on ready-made foundations. If the basement of the house is sinking, then the drain is not made and the first crown is laid along the waterproofing layer with an outer overhang above the base by 3-4 cm.

Corner connection of beams"back to back" is fragile and creates ventilated vertical slots.
More technologically advanced is the connection on the root spikes: the cut of the tree for the spike and socket is done across the fibers, and the chipping is done along. In addition, with this connection, the tenon socket is further from the edge of the timber. To prevent horizontal shifts, the bars are interconnected by vertical dowels (dowels) with a diameter of about 30 mm and a height of 20-25 cm. than the length of the dowel.

In contrast to log walls, cobbled walls have flat horizontal seams and therefore rain moisture penetrates into the room through them. To reduce the water permeability of the seams, each beam with outer side along the upper edge, a chamfer 20-30 mm wide is removed (planed), and the outer seams themselves are carefully caulked and covered with drying oil, oil paint etc. The most effective protection of cobbled walls from atmospheric influences is their sheathing with boards or facing with bricks. This allows not only to protect the walls from the effects of external moisture and reduce airflow, but also to make them more "warm", and with brick lining and more fire resistant.

To prevent the biological destruction of wood between the plank sheathing and the wall, a ventilation gap 4-6 cm wide is made. If additional insulation of the walls of the house is necessary, this gap is expanded and filled with mineral wool. At the same time, the insulation must be left open at the top and bottom. Plank sheathing is best done horizontally - this facilitates the installation of insulation and creates more favorable conditions for vertical ventilation of the interior space. Brick cladding is also installed with a gap of 5-7 cm from the wall. For ventilation of the internal space (including those filled with insulation), air is left at the top and bottom of the brick cladding. Brick cladding is laid out either in half a brick, or with a modular brick having a thickness of 88 mm, "on edge" and attached to the beams or logs with metal clamps placed 30-40 cm in height and 1-1.5 m along the front walls in a checkerboard pattern.

Clamps are a double-bent strip of galvanized roofing steel 3-5 wide and 15-20 cm long. On one side, it is attached with a bent end to a bar or log ( better with a screw), the other is embedded in brickwork with a 900 end bend along the cladding. Sheathing and cladding of cobbled and log walls is carried out after their complete settlement, i.e. not earlier than 1-1.5 years after construction.

WOODEN FRAME WALLS
Frame walls are considered the easiest option for construction. country house, since at a relatively low cost of wood, they can be no less warm and less sound-conducting than felled log walls.

The frame, as a rule, consists of the lower and top strapping walls, stiffening struts, as well as such auxiliary elements as intermediate posts and crossbars, between which door and window frames.

After assembling the frame with outside it is sheathed with boards about 20 mm thick. Instead, you can use other durable and weather-resistant materials, such as asbestos-cement boards.

For wall insulation, the following method is used. The boards are laid in two layers, leaving a space between them, which must be filled either with rolled materials (roofing paper, roofing felt), or slab or bulk materials. Plate and roll materials are attached to the wall with nails. The resulting seams are covered with a solution of gypsum or caulked with tow. When laying slabs in two layers, the seams between the slabs of the first layer must be overlapped by the slabs of the second layer.

In order to prevent moist air from penetrating between the layers of the boards, an insulating layer of roofing material is placed under the lining on the inside of the wall, which is mixed with lime before use. It will reliably protect your house from rodents.

In addition to lime, slag, pumice, sawdust, moss, peat, sunflower husks, and straw can be used as backfill. The lighter the material, the lower its thermal conductivity. Before use, it must be thoroughly dried and antiseptic. And only after such treatment, mix, lay in layers and compact.

But despite the fact that dry backfills have a number of advantages (relative cheapness, availability, protection from rodents), they are characterized by one drawback, namely, they give a draft at home with the subsequent formation of unwanted voids, which can not be attributed to advantages. To prevent this, it is necessary to raise the walls 300 mm above the ceiling beams and fill with backfill; gradually settling, it will fill the voids. Under windows is better to use board materials, and if this is not possible, then in this case we recommend that you arrange retractable window sills and add backfill through them.

Due to the fact that the backfill is for the most part considered light and bulk material and, as we have already noted, gives a draft, materials are added to it, turning it into a solid aggregate. Lime and gypsum are considered to be one of the most commonly used materials (5% gypsum is used for 80% of sawdust).

Some builders resort to moistened backfills. When preparing them, it is necessary to strictly observe a certain ratio of materials, which are best taken in parts by weight. So, for example, 0.5 parts of gypsum and 2 parts of water are taken for 1 part of organic aggregate. It is prepared as follows: organic fillers, a binder are poured onto the striker in layers, mixed thoroughly and moistened with water. All this dries up in 2-3 weeks. Many builders make the mistake of using moistened backfill in the manufacture of thermal insulation materials(roofing felt, roofing material). In no case should this be done, since such materials can subsequently cause a fungus that is dangerous for wood.

The most effective heat-insulating material are plates made of organic materials, size 50x50, thickness from 5 to 15 cm. For their manufacture, take 4 parts of clay dough, 0.3 parts of quicklime, 2 parts of water. In the absence of lime, you can use cement (0.3 parts to 2 parts of water). All constituent components are mixed; if they are dry, they must be wetted with water. Once again, it is thoroughly mixed to a homogeneous state, laid in molds, rammed and dried under a canopy or in a closed room. Drying time depends on the binder. If you used gypsum or lime, then the drying time will be limited to two to three weeks, and if clay, you will have to wait three to four weeks.

BRICK WALLS.
Bricks of various types are used for laying the walls of residential buildings. In order to save materials, it is not recommended to use ordinary solid bricks for continuous masonry. Solid walls are best laid out from a light and hollow brick using two-row and multi-row dressing systems. With a two-row dressing of masonry, the front rows of pokes alternate with rows of spoons, and a significant number of halves and three-quarter bricks are required for dressing. Laying on multi-row dressing consists of spoon rows, overlapped every fifth row (in height) with a bond row. The thickness of the horizontal and vertical mortar joints should be no more than 10-12 mm. Examples of masonry walls and their details (corners, pillars, piers, as well as adjoining walls) are shown in the figure.

When laying, the solution is fed to the wall from a box (with low sides) with a shovel-bucket and spread out in the form of a convex bed. The brick must first be laid out on the wall for spoon rows in stacks of 2 bricks flat, with the long side along the wall, and for the rows of sticks, the long side across the wall. Masonry is carried out, observing strict horizontal and vertical rows, following the correctness of the front surfaces of the walls. For better adhesion of the mortar to the brick, especially when laying in hot weather, it is recommended to moisten the brick with water before laying. This recommendation applies to all types of brickwork. If the walls are to be plastered in the future, then the masonry should be carried out in vain, that is, without filling the seams near the surface of the wall to be plastered with mortar. With this method, the plaster adheres more firmly to the surface of the wall. For laying massive stone walls, cold mortars are used, and for thin walls that require an increase in thermal qualities, warm plastic mortars are used. In warm solutions, sand is replaced with ground fuel or blast-furnace slag, ash, ground tuff, pumice, etc. If the substitute is well ground, then sand is not added, but if the substitute contains some large impurities, then sand is added in a small amount. At outdoor plaster the wall on such solutions acquires the best heat-insulating qualities.

For the installation of door and window frames, openings with carved quarters are left in the masonry. The openings are covered with prefabricated reinforced concrete, ordinary brick or wedge-shaped lintels. When arranging ordinary jumpers at the level of the top of the opening, formwork is installed from boards 40-50 mm thick, on which the solution is spread with a layer of up to 2 cm and reinforcement is laid (pack steel, round 4-6 mm steel) at the rate of 1 rod per 1/2 brick wall thickness. The ends of the reinforcement should go into the walls by 25 cm. The wedge-shaped lintels are also arranged along the pre-laid formwork, laying the brick on the edge from the edges to the middle of the lintel and with an inclination at the edges to form a spacer (wedge). It is allowed to install jumpers from tarred boards 5-6 cm thick, the ends of which should be deepened into the piers by 15-25 cm.

PARTITIONS.
Partitions must be soundproof, nailed, durable, stable. Partitions are installed on the floor structure before flooring. At the junction of partitions made of combustible materials to stoves and chimneys, brick cuttings should be arranged along the entire height so that the distance from the partition to the inner surface of the stove or chimney is at least 40 cm.

FRAME.
The frame of the partitions consists of racks 5-6 cm thick and 9-10 cm wide with spikes at the ends, top and bottom strapping of the same section with sockets for rack spikes. Racks are placed at a distance of 0.75-1.2 m from one another, with a spike in the harness nest, and fastened with nails. To form a doorway, framing posts are placed with a crossbar (lintel) cut into the top. The door frame is nailed to the framing posts. The frame is sheathed horizontally on both sides with boards 1.9-2.5 cm thick. Boards more than 12 cm wide are pierced with an ax so that they do not warp during plastering. The voids between the two skins are filled with fine sifted dry slag to increase soundproofing and reduce fire hazard. In some cases, the frame of the interior partition can be sheathed with fibreboard and plywood sheets without any filling. However, such partitions, being very light and simple in their design, have a high sound conductivity.

GYPSUM PARTITIONS.
Partitions made of gypsum boards are laid up to the device of a clean floor on boards with blocks nailed along the edges to form a gutter that prevents the plates from moving to the sides. The laying of the slabs begins with pouring the gutter in the bed with a gypsum mortar. The first row of plates is immersed in the solution with the groove up. The vertical seams between the plates are filled with mortar. Before installing the next row of plates, the groove of the first row is filled with mortar, etc. The partition is not brought to the ceiling by 1-2 cm in order to be able to carefully caulk and seal the gap with mortar. High doorways are fenced with racks resting on the ceiling. For low openings door frames installed before the partition device. The jumper is carried out by a simple overlap of plates (with an opening width of less than 1 m) or by laying two reinforcement rods poured with gypsum mortar. To protect gypsum boards from moisture, if the partition is supported on concrete base floor of the first floor, 2 rows of brickwork are laid under the partition along a layer of roofing felt or roofing material. After laying, the gypsum partition is plastered or rubbed.

BRICK PARTITIONS.
Brick partitions are laid with a thickness of 1/2 brick (12 cm). The basis for partitions can serve concrete preparation under the floors of the first floor or reinforced concrete floors. By hardwood floors brick partitions should not be done due to their significant weight. Laying is carried out by bandaging vertical seams. Surfaces are plastered on both sides. The adjunction of brick partitions to walls and ceilings is carried out in the same way as with gypsum partitions. Jumpers are arranged above the doorways, resting them on 2 bars of reinforcement in cement mortar.

The external walls of a private house should be:

1. Strong and durable
2. Warm and energy saving
3. Quiet
4. Harmless to humans
5. beautiful

Which walls of the house are stronger

Loads act on the wall of the house in several directions. Operating forces tend to compress, move sideways and turn the wall.

Compressive loads- these are vertical forces from the weight of the wall and above the underlying structures of the house. These forces tend to crush, flatten the material of the wall.

Low-rise private houses are relatively light in weight. Wall materials, as a rule, have a fairly large margin of compressive strength, which allows them to withstand the vertical loads of a private house even when.

Horizontal loads and torques act as a result of, for example, lateral wind pressure on the house or soil pressure on the basement wall, due to the support of the ceiling on the edge of the wall, due to the deviation of the walls from the vertical, and other reasons. These forces tend to move the wall or part of the wall from its position.

General rule for walls - the thinner the wall, the worse it withstands lateral loads and turning moments. If the wall does not withstand the specified loads, then it bends, cracks or even breaks.

It is the small margin of resistance to displacement that is weak point in ensuring the strength of the walls of a private house. The compressive strength value of most wall materials allows you to make a fairly thin wall for a private house, but the need to ensure the stability of the walls to displacement, often forces designers to increase the thickness of the walls.

The stability of the walls to lateral loads is significantly influenced by the design of the walls and the house as a whole. For example, reinforcement of masonry, installation of a monolithic belt on the walls at the level of floors, strong connections between external and internal walls, as well as with floors and foundations, create the power frame of the building, which holds the walls together and resists the displacement deformations of the walls.

In order to provide the necessary strength and durability of a private house with reasonable costs for construction, it is necessary to choose the right material and design of the walls, as well as the design of the power house frame, This choice is best entrusted to specialists - designers.

On sale there are projects of private houses with walls made of masonry materials with a masonry thickness of only 180 - 250 mm. . The thickness can be 100 - 200 mm.

The walls of the house are warm and energy efficient - what's the difference?

In order for a person in the house to feel thermal comfort, three conditions must be met:

The first condition is the air temperature in the room should be about +22 about C. To fulfill this condition in the house, it is enough to install a boiler or stove required power and drown them.

The temperature of the surface of the outer walls in the house is always lower than the air temperature in the room. According to the requirements of sanitary and hygienic rules, the temperature difference between the air and the surface of the outer wall in the house should be no more than 4 about C is the second condition.

With the specified temperature difference, the surface of the outer wall in the house will be warm enough (+18 about C). There will be no “breathing cold” from the wall, condensation or frost will not appear on the surface of the wall.

There will be thermal comfort in the house if the temperature difference between the air in the room and on the surface of the outer wall is no more than d t<4 о C. Обе стены на рисунке не соответствуют этим требованиям при температуре наружного воздуха t н =-26 о С и ниже.

To fulfill the second condition, the outer wall of the house must have certain thermal properties. The heat transfer resistance of the outer wall must be higher than the calculated value, m 2 * about C / W. For example, for the district of Sochi, this value should be more than 0.66, for Moscow - 1.38, and for Yakutsk at least - 2.13.

For example, an outer wall made of autoclaved aerated concrete (gas silicate) will be warm and provide thermal comfort in the house, with a thickness in Sochi - 90 mm, in Moscow — 210 mm., and in Yakutsk - 300 mm.

Third condition- building envelopes of the house must have. If the “clothes” of the house are blown by the wind, then there will be no heat, no matter how thick the thermal insulation is. Everyone knows this from their own experience.

Exterior walls with the above parameters will be warm and provide thermal comfort in the house, but they will not be energy efficient. Heat losses through the walls will significantly exceed the building regulations in force in Russia.

In order to comply with energy saving regulations, the heat transfer resistance of the outer walls should be several times higher. For example, for the district of Sochi - at least 1.74 m 2 * about C / W, for Moscow — 3.13 m 2 * about C / W, and for Yakutsk - 5.04 m 2 * about C / W.

Thickness of energy-saving walls from autoclaved aerated concrete (gas silicate) will also be more: for the area of ​​Sochi - 270 mm., for the Moscow region - 510 mm. for Yakutia - 730 mm.

Aerated concrete (gas silicate) is the warmest material for laying walls. The thickness of energy-saving walls made of more heat-conducting materials (brick, concrete blocks) should be even greater. (The figure above shows the heat transfer resistance of a masonry brick wall with a thickness of 2.5 bricks (640 mm.) = 0.79 and in one brick (250 mm) = 0,31 m2* o C/W. Compare with the values ​​\u200b\u200bgiven in the examples and evaluate in which regions such walls will provide thermal comfort?)

Wooden walls made of timber or logs also do not meet the requirements of energy saving.

It should be noted that comply with the requirements of building regulations for the resistance to heat transfer of walls and other enclosing structures of the house not required for a private developer.

It is more important for the home owner to reduce overall heating costs.

It can be advantageous to give up the energy-saving properties of walls, but to increase the heat-saving parameters of ceilings, windows, ventilation systems in order to meet the norms of energy consumption for heating.

Heat loss through the walls is only 20 - 30% of the total heat loss in the house.

Do not forget about one more condition of an energy-saving house. The house must have a minimum- walls, ceilings, windows.

Which walls are better to make - single-layer or double-layer

From the data above, it can be seen that wall materials allow you to build strong, thin and fairly cheap walls private house. But such walls will not provide thermal comfort in the house or have the required energy-saving properties.

Technologies for building walls of a private house are developing in two main directions:

1. Relatively thin and strong walls are insulated with highly effective insulation. The wall is made up of two layers.- a carrier layer that perceives mechanical loads, and a layer of insulation.
2. For the construction of single-layer walls, materials are used that combine a sufficiently high resistance, both to mechanical stress and to heat transfer. The construction of single-layer walls made of cellular concrete (autoclaved aerated concrete, gas silicate) or porous ceramics is popular.

It should be noted that wall materials for single-layer walls have mediocre, both mechanical and thermal properties. We have to improve them with various constructive tricks.

A combination of these two technologies is also used when walls made of cellular and porous materials additionally insulate a layer of highly effective insulation. This combination allows make masonry walls and a layer of insulation of small thickness. This can be advantageous for structural reasons, especially when building a house in a cold climate.

Single-layer walls of a private house

Not so long ago, almost all private houses were built with single-layer walls. The thickness of the walls of the house was chosen from the conditions for ensuring thermal comfort and thought little about energy saving.

Currently, for the construction of single-layer walls, materials with sufficiently high thermal insulation properties are used, to make your home energy efficient.

What is better to make a single-layer wall of the house.

All materials for single-layer walls have a porous structure and a low density of 300 - 600 kg / m 3. With a decrease in density, heat-saving properties improve, but the mechanical strength of materials is reduced.

There are several types of cellular concrete, which differ in the way they create pores (cells). The best properties for the construction of single-layer exterior walls of the house are density (brand) 300-500 kg / m 3.

Aerated concrete blocks can have precise dimensions, which allows them to be placed on glue with a joint thickness of 2 mm. The ends of the blocks often have a groove-ridge profile and are joined without mortar in a vertical seam.

Aerated concrete has an open porous structure and therefore absorbs moisture well, but also easily breaks up with it.

Porous ceramics is made from raw materials and in a manner that is similar to the production of ordinary ceramic bricks. The difference is that components are added to the clay-based mass, which form pores during firing.

Hollow blocks are made from porous ceramics. Hollowness further enhances the heat-saving properties of block walls.

The thickness of the masonry of single-layer walls from blocks of porous ceramics 38 - 50 cm. Porous ceramic blocks are laid on a special heat-saving mortar with a joint thickness of 10-15 mm.

The exterior finish of single-layer walls, as a rule, is. Facing plates made of natural stone or artificial products can be glued to the walls. Finishing by the ventilated facade method (cladding along the crate) is used very rarely.

The plastering of walls made of porous ceramics or expanded clay concrete from the outside is performed with a traditional plaster composition with a thickness of about 2 cm. In addition to plaster, you can do it in other ways (see link).

From the inside, the walls are plastered or.

Building a house with single-layer walls is faster. In a new house with single-layer walls you can start living without waiting for the finishing of the facade. This work can be left for later.

Walls with insulation - two-layer and three-layer

For building a wall with insulation almost any masonry material can be used- ceramic and silicate bricks, blocks of cellular and lightweight concrete, as well as porous ceramics.

The bearing layer of a double layer wall can also be make of monolithic concrete or wood- timber, logs. The choice of material is much more varied than with single-layer walls.

For walls with insulation use materials with higher mechanical strength and density than for single-layer walls. This circumstance makes it possible to reduce the thickness of the masonry of two-layer walls.

Thickness of masonry walls from 180 mm. - depends on the properties of the materials used, on the construction of the walls and the box of the house.

Wall masonry is most often carried out on ordinary masonry mortar, filling horizontal and vertical seams with mortar. The work is simpler, not requiring special qualifications from masons.

The mechanical strength of the wall material, as a rule, is sufficient for problem-free fastening to walls of various structures.

The thermal insulation properties of the wall depend mainly on the thermal conductivity and the thickness of the insulation layer.

The thermal insulation layer is placed outside ( double layer wall) or inside the wall, closer to the outer surface ( three-layer wall).

As thermal insulation, slabs of mineral wool or polymers - polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam are most often used. Less commonly used heat-insulating slabs of cellular concrete and foam glass, although they do have a number of advantages.

Mineral wool slabs for wall insulation must have a density of at least 60-80 kg / m 3. If it is used for facade decoration, then mineral wool boards with a density of 125-180 are used. kg / m 3 or slabs of extruded polystyrene foam.

Mineral wool insulation is plastered with a vapor-permeable composition - mineral or silicate plaster.

Facade insulation mineral wool usually cost more and harder to work with. But a layer of wool insulation allows moisture to escape from the wall to the outside.

A continuous layer of thermal insulation on the outside allows block all cold bridges in double-layer walls without the use of special design tricks that have to be done in single-layer walls.

General thickness of two-layer walls (with plaster from 35 cm.) is usually less than a single layer wall.

The width of the foundation walls (basement) is also smaller, which allows save on their construction. This advantage does not apply to three-layer walls. The width of three-layer walls and their foundations is usually not less than that of single-layer ones.

Exterior finish of double-layer walls is performed thin-layer plaster on insulation. Insulation boards, preferably extruded polystyrene foam, are glued to the wall. The thickness of the insulation layer is not recommended to be more than 150 mm. A layer of plaster with a thickness of 5-7 mm.

Wall surface with thin-layer plaster more sensitive to point mechanical impacts than a single-layer wall with traditional plaster.

For double-layer walls often use ventilated cladding on the frame. In a ventilated facade, mineral wool insulation boards are placed between the frame posts. A cladding made of vinyl or plinth siding, wooden materials, or various slabs is mounted on the frame.

Fixing the insulation to the walls, installing a ventilated facade - all these works consist of many stages and operations, require skill, accuracy and responsibility from the performers. A variety of materials are used for work.

When installing double-layer walls in there is a risk that employees will do something wrong.

In three-layer walls a layer of highly effective insulation is placed inside the masonry or wall monolith. Three-layer walls also include walls with a lining of a layer of insulation with bricks or other masonry materials.

For the device of three-layer walls, a single-row masonry of (thermal wall, silicon granite, polyblock) is also used. Heat blocks have three layers of concrete-insulation-concrete fastened together.

Mineral insulation - low-density cellular concrete

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