- Which is better, nails or screws and self-tapping screws. Test. Nails for fastening slate - the better to fasten and how to nail What is better to fasten

Equipping the floors in the house, in addition to choosing the type of flooring, it is necessary to carefully approach the selection of the method of fixing the purchased material. For any building material, their fastening methods are used, including for the floorboard. Consider how to fix the floorboard with the most reliable and popular methods.

Ways to fix the floorboard

The floor covering is experiencing quite serious loads, so it is necessary to approach the choice of the method of fastening with all responsibility. If some floorboards are not fixed well enough, then after a while they will begin to loosen.

As a rule, this happens after a short period of time. The floorboards move, the initially flat floor begins to make an unpleasant creaking sound, and often it simply collapses.

There are some of the most common ways to fix floorboards:

secret method, that is, the use of screws or nails;
with glue;
clamp fastening.

Fixing floorboards with nails

In this case, the floorboard is fastened to a wooden base, which can be solid or made of logs. Initially, the width of the floorboard is taken into account, which is important.

The first row of floorboards is fastened with nails, which are driven at an angle of 45 ° through the comb into the base. Then they are driven into their place. Pre-drill holes for the fasteners. This is done in order not to damage the combs.

During the fitting of the next row, the nails must be hidden. All subsequent rows of boards are fixed by driving nails through the surface.

When a plank floor is repaired and several floorboards are changed, care must be taken to ensure that all floorboards end under the center of the crossbar. Otherwise, you can get a non-durable coating.

glue method

If the flooring of the floorboard will be carried out on a solid base, then it can be fixed with glue. To do this, the grooves of the boards are coated with an adhesive, you can use ordinary PVA glue, and then they are mounted on the tongues of the previous row.

Glue should be applied in a thin layer with a step of 50 cm along the entire groove. Adhesive should also be applied to the end tongue-and-groove edges.

Clamp fixing

Some types of boards come with special clips that fit into a slot on the inside of the board. These elements are designed to connect boards to each other. So, how to lay the floorboard using this method of fastening?

To do this, follow the following technology:

A waterproofing material is laid on the subfloor, which should be fixed to the walls with construction tape.
Clamps should be driven into the slots of the boards laid in the first row with a hammer. This is done in the direction of the tongue.
The ends of the planks are smeared with glue, and then the first row is laid.
Insert wedges about 1 cm thick between the wall and the boards.
Clamps are also attached to the second row of boards. The floorboards are locked in place by gently tapping with a hammer through the block along the edges of the row.
The rest of the rows are laid in the same way.
Then the wedges between the wall and the coating are removed.
Skirting boards are being installed.

Special screws for floorboards

Professional craftsmen for fastening floorboards use special self-tapping screws for the floorboard. The use of such fastening material allows you to get a securely fixed and with a fairly long service life of the floor covering.

Compared to conventional self-tapping screws, the cost of this type is an order of magnitude higher. However, they are more efficient in their properties.

Special screws designed for floorboards have the following features:

These fasteners are available in various sizes. The standard section is 3.5 mm, the length can be 35, 40, 45 and 50 mm. Depending on the thickness of the floorboards, the size of the screw is selected.
This fastener for the floorboard is not subject to corrosion, as it has a protective coating.
There is a cutter at the end of the self-tapping screw, which allows it to be screwed into wood without pre-drilling holes. In addition, this structure allows the screw to enter more tightly, which means that the fixing of the floorboards to the floor base will be more durable.
The self-tapping screw has a special milling cut. It has an angle at which the fastener easily enters the wood and does not split.
Self-tapping screws for floorboards have another structural feature, which consists in the absence of threaded threads in the upper part. This design allows the floor covering to adhere more closely to the base.

Here are some tips on how to properly lay the floorboard:

It is necessary to fix the floorboards to the base with screws in increments of 25-30 cm.
Some masters recommend that before laying the floorboard and fixing it to the base, apply glue to it, which is used when installing the parquet floor. This option can be used if the waterproofing layer (for example, polyethylene film) did not fit. The adhesive fixing method cannot be used by itself. It is used only as an addition to the main method of fastening with nails or screws. Without them, it will not be possible to obtain a strong and reliable fixing of the floorboards (read: "").
Along the entire perimeter of the room there should not be a tight adjoining of the boards to the wall. It is necessary to leave a gap between the wall and the floorboards equal to approximately 10 mm. It will act as a expansion joint.
The screws that are used when installing the plank floor can be completely hidden. To do this, the caps of the self-tapping screws should be sunk into the wood by about 3-4 mm. The resulting holes can be hidden with pieces of wood that will match their shape and size. It should also be the same type of wood as the floorboards. Most companies that produce high-quality lumber complete their products with similar corks.

The strength, reliability and service life of the flooring will depend on how the floorboard is laid. Therefore, the correct fixation of the floorboards is a very important point in the installation of the floor, therefore, it is worthwhile to approach the choice of the method of fixing the boards with great care.

Often you have to attach weighty objects to the wall. To successfully solve this problem, it is necessary not only to take into account the base material and the characteristics of the fixing elements, but also to correctly perform the preparatory and installation work.

It is immediately worth noting that only heavy objects can be heeled to the main walls. It is desirable to take this aspect into account during the design of the building. Lightweight plasterboard partitions can be a good option for separating the kitchen and living room, but only if you do not need to hang cabinets and shelves on one side of the wall, and a TV on the other. The situation is similar with frame structures made of chipboard or SIP panels.

In principle, "weights" can also be hung on them, but this approach is associated with a lot of nuances. It is necessary to compare the location and load-bearing capacity of the frame, use additional elements to create the frame, use special fixing parts... In addition to the fact that such work is rather problematic, there remains a considerable probability of the collapse of the entire structure. And this will not only lead to expenses for the repair or replacement of a “fell off” boiler, TV, cabinet with dishes ... This situation can cause serious injury.

Frame walls and plasterboard partitions should be used as a base for small mirrors, photo frames, towel hooks, etc. Heavy (up to 50 kg) objects can be hung on porous bases made of ceramic block, foam concrete, shell rock, etc., but using special fasteners or reinforcing frame. Almost everything can be hung on brick and concrete walls.

Tools

To hang heavy objects you will need:

DETECTOR. When planning and preliminary marking, you need to use a special detector that will help you detect plastic, metal, and live cables hidden in the wall. The tools differ in the sensitivity of the sensor, that is, the ability to scan the wall to different depths. There is also a gradation according to the type of material that the system recognizes - not all devices are suitable for a comprehensive check, some are designed, for example, only to search for metal.

PUNCH OR IMPACT DRILL. A regular tool that only has a drilling function can also be used, but working with it will be more laborious. If we are talking about a brick, then in principle you can limit yourself to a drill. But for concrete walls, you will have to additionally use a hand chisel and a hammer, punching a hole from time to time. The puncher itself not only rotates the drill, but also performs percussive translational movements, so it is great for full-bodied heavy structures.

BITS AND DRILLS. They are selected taking into account the material of the wall, the diameter of the required hole, the type of drill chuck used. If you drill in concrete with a light brick drill, it will take more time and effort. In addition, the drill tip will wear out quickly, and the hammer motor will work under increased loads.

LEVELS. In order to hang any object evenly, it is necessary to use a level. And this requirement is caused not so much by aesthetic issues as by the practical component. Firstly, if one corner of the shelf is higher than the other, then a large load will be placed on the place of its fastening. Secondly, uneven placement of, for example, a kitchen hood can cause an imbalance in the engine, which will work at an angle.

The simplest and most popular are spirit levels, which help to “align” objects up to 2 m long. If we are talking about large distances, as is the case with the shelves of a kitchen set, then you need to use devices with a laser beam or water levels, working on the principle of communicating vessels.

SCREWDRIVERS If a relatively simple cordless screwdriver is suitable for working with wood and aerated concrete, then for heavy walls you need a powerful screwdriver. When buying fasteners with you, it is better to take a set of replacement bits to check if they fit the selected hats exactly.

USEFUL THINGS. Glasses, gloves, pencil, marker, electrical tape, hammer, pliers, wrenches, oilcloth.

The impact drill can handle all materials except concrete and stone. For the latter, you need to use a powerful puncher
Places safe for drilling are marked through the hole in the detector.
In order not to damage the wall finish, it is better to use a rubber mallet when hammering the dowels.
Most of the measuring work is carried out with the usual level, but only a laser can provide maximum accuracy.
The more complex the shape of the dowel, the more reliable the fasteners will be.

Load type
It is important to understand that there are dynamic loads, and there are static ones. In the latter case, everything is relatively simple - you need to compare the weight of the same boiler or air conditioner with the bearing capacity of the wall and select the appropriate fasteners. For example, for a boiler with a capacity of 100 liters, anchors are needed that can withstand 150 kg. But for a horizontal bar or bars suspended on a wall, it is not enough to add up the mass of the structure and the weight of the heaviest athlete. If the frame itself weighs 10 kg, and the person involved in it weighs 90 kg, then the total value of 100 kg does not mean at all that the same anchors for 150 kg are needed. Since the load will not be constant, but in jerks (for pulling out), it is worth providing a greater margin of safety by choosing fasteners with a bearing capacity of 200 kg.

The ends of the fasteners can be made in the form of a hat or a hexagon (for simple fixation of the supporting frame), a ring (for fixing the lamp), a corner (for hanging some details)...

fasteners

Suspension of structures is performed using fixing parts, which can be divided into internal and external. The first ones are driven into the wall, the second ones completely or partially remain outside - suspended objects are attached directly to them.

The type of the inner sleeve, as well as the diameter and length of the fixing elements, are selected in accordance with the wall material and the weight of the structure (plus a margin). In order not to be mistaken, you need to use the manufacturers' catalogs, which provide calculation tables for each product. However, consultants of building supermarkets can also solve this problem.
All you have to do is provide them with the following information:
- material and wall thickness;
- weight of the suspended structure;
- the number of points to fix.

Despite the fact that the final and exact choice of fasteners depends on the individual situation, there are general subspecies of mounting elements used to fix heavy objects on walls made of different materials.

Installation work

During the preparation of the workplace, it is necessary to create the most convenient conditions so that the drill enters the wall strictly perpendicularly. That is, when making holes, the drill should be at chest level - otherwise it will be difficult to control it. To minimize the spread of dust and debris, a cardboard box with a bag is attached under the drill.

In hollow bricks and aerated concrete, holes for anchors and dowels are made only in the "drilling" mode. In harder walls (for example, from solid bricks), holes are made in the "drilling with slotting" mode (with a high frequency of light impacts). When working with concrete, use the "perforating" mode. In order not to damage the material of the wall decoration, you need to take into account its type. If this is a tile, then in any case it must be "passed" by simple drilling without impact. Otherwise, it may crack.

To prevent the drill from slipping, the place of "drilling" must first be pierced with a nail or sealed with electrical tape. The spacer sleeve must fully enter the wall, that is, be recessed deeper than the tile or at least flush with it, but not go out in any way.

The bases covered with plaster require special care. So that it does not crumble and cracks do not go, at first they also drill with simple drilling. When hammering the dowel, you need to be careful not to hit the fragile coating with a hammer.

When the hole is ready, dust and pebbles are blown out of it. Then the spacer sleeve is driven in. It is important that it fits snugly and does not "hang out". Finally, a screw or bolt is screwed in, which "bursts" the dowel or anchor and makes the fixing element solid and strong.

How to use concrete anchors

To make the finish look attractive, it must be properly fixed.

When considering how to attach a wall paneling to a wall, most reviews recommend only one option for the job. We will analyze as many as 3 ways, you need to choose the one that best suits your conditions and provides maximum reliability. After reading this review, you will understand all the nuances and easily do the work on your own.

Mounting methods

We will analyze how to properly fix the lining on a wooden frame in different ways. Each of them has its own pros and cons, so read all the information below carefully.

Option 1 - use finishing nails

This fastener for lining is traditional and has been used for several decades, for work we need special studs with a reduced head. The length should be such that 2/3 of the nails are included in the bar, most often products with a length of 30 to 40 mm are used. The price of 100 grams is 40-50 rubles, so this is also the cheapest method of attachment.

Let's figure out how the lining is attached in this case:

The first installation option is fastening into a groove, that is, into a recess on one of the sides, in this case the nail is hammered at an angle of 45 degrees and closed by the next element. Below is a diagram of this technology;

You can also fix the elements through the spike, below it is shown how to properly fasten the lining with nails in this case. Here the nail is also closed by the next element, providing the perfect appearance of the finish;

After choosing the option that you will use, you can get to work. Before attaching the lining to the wall, it is necessary to cut the elements of the required length so that there are gaps of several mm to compensate for material deformations during temperature changes;
The first element in the corner on one side is fixed through the top, anyway, the corner is closed with a plinth or other decorative element. On the second side, a carnation is hammered into a spike or groove, this is done very carefully so as not to split the material and damage it. Thus, you quickly and reliably finish walls and ceilings.

Advice! Nails thicker than 1.4 mm should not be used, as they are much more likely to split the material.

Option 2 - use kleimers

It is impossible to disassemble the question of how to fix a wooden lining, and not to mention kleimers, this is the name of special brackets that are placed on the spike of the elements and fixed with carnations. For lining, option No. 4 is used, and for block house and timber imitation - No. 5. Products are sold in packs of 100 pieces and cost about 50 rubles per pack, carnations are included.

Do-it-yourself instructions include the following steps:

To begin with, the number of fasteners is calculated, they are located on each frame edge, you need to multiply the number of structure edges by the number of lining panels;
The location of the kleimers with a vertical arrangement of elements does not matter, and if the finish is horizontal, then they should be from below;

The workflow is very simple: the lining is put in place, fits well with the previous element, after which the clamps are placed and fixed with small studs. To make them more convenient to score, use a spacer.

Advice! If you want to ensure a higher fastening strength, then instead of studs, you can use self-tapping screws to fasten the clamps, the 3x20 mm option is best.

Option 3 - use self-tapping screws

If you are thinking about how to fix the lining on the wall as securely as possible, then self-tapping screws are best. Their use is associated with some difficulties, but the fixation strength will be maximum, and if necessary, the finish can be disassembled without damaging it, which is also important.

The workflow in this case looks like this:

In the groove connection of the lining with a 3 mm thick drill, holes are drilled at an angle of 45 degrees;
The element is attached to the crate, tightly joined, after which a self-tapping screw is screwed into it. The work should be done very carefully: the hat should sink into the material so as not to interfere with the docking, but at the same time, do not press too hard so that the wood does not crack.

The question is often asked, on what to fix the PVC lining, in this case all the above options will do. Alternatively, you can use a simpler option - construction stapler, it is perfect for plastic.

This article will tell you how and how to securely fasten the lining to the walls and ceiling. By the way, do not confuse the lining with a block house and imitation timber. These are different things. There is a separate article about the block house, but read about the imitation of timber here.

Ways of fastening lining

There are three main attachment methods.

The first way is installation with nails. This is the oldest and easiest way.

The second way is fastening with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws have become available relatively recently. About 20-30 years ago they were in short supply.

The third way is installation on clamps. This method appeared quite recently, 10-15 years ago.

Let's consider the issue in more detail.

Nailing

I use various nails to fasten the lining. They come in different colors. Most often, yellow nails are used. They are closer to the color of the lining.

I rarely use brown nails. If you paint the lining in dark colors, then brown nails will be less noticeable.

The most uncommon are silver and black carnations. They look worse against the background of a tree.

Nails come in different sizes. Often nails are used twice as thick as lining. The thickness of the lining is 12 mm -14 mm, which means that nails should be used 24 mm. Sometimes you need nails longer than 30mm -40mm.

Carnations for lining have a special type of cap. It is spherical in shape. When such a nail is hammered into the lining, the hat is lost against the background of the tree.

And then there is a different body. Most Russian nails are smooth. But nails come to our market, the body of which has notches.

These serifs can be helical - like an ice screw auger. And they can be annular, not form a thread. The coils help to hold onto the tree better. When the wood dries out, such a nail does not dangle and does not creak.

Self-tapping screws

Self-tapping screws for fastening the lining have a number of parameters.

Most often, yellow screws are used. O neither is closest in color to wood.

Long self-tapping screws are used from 20 mm to 40 mm. Longer ones are harmful.

The cap of the self-tapping screw should be hidden. At the moment of tightening, she goes into the tree.

They usually choose the thinnest self-tapping screws that you can buy. The thicker the screw, the worse. From thick screws, the tree bursts.

We use self-tapping screws with a fullness of 2.9 mm. (rod diameter 2.2mm)

Self-tapping screws are more reliable fasteners than nails. They hold a large load and are not prone to twisting.

Another plus is that they do not creak over time. When the hole from the nail warms up, it increases in diameter. When you press the lining, the nail sitting in it starts to make a sound. Everyone heard the sound of creaking floors. It often comes from nails.

If you need to shrink the lining, this can only be done with self-tapping screws.

Suppose, for some reason, you need to disassemble the finished wall from the lining. We unscrew the screws, remove the sticks from the wall. Then they did what they wanted. And in the old places, you can fasten the lining with the same theme with self-tapping screws. This is a huge plus.

Not everyone knows

Self-tapping screws and nails are through fasteners. There is also a method of fastening not through. When the lining is fastened with a self-tapping screw from the back.

The secret is in the chosen length. The self-tapping screw is not visible, but at the same time it holds the lining. This is how we do, for example, doors for cabinets from lining. Let's look at the photo together.

Fastening to clamps

Unlike a nail and a self-tapping screw, a clamp is a non-self-supporting fastener. It needs fixing with something.

There are three ways to attach the clamp. You can fix the clamp with nails, screws or a stapler.

Nailing has a big drawback. Since the nails must be small, you can hit the clamp during driving and flatten it. I do not like to fasten the clamp with nails and I do not advise you.

Fixing the clamp with a stapler is a more difficult task. Firstly, it is difficult to choose a clamp, the holes of which are ideal for the size of the brackets. Secondly, during operation, the brackets periodically do not fall into the holes. Because when you substitute the stapler, most of the clamp is not visible.

After several hits, you can hit the knots, the bracket will bend and you need to pull it out. It takes time.

The most correct fastener of the clamp is on small self-tapping screws. A self-tapping screw is used short 10 - 12 mm, with the smallest completeness and always a secret hat.

Just screw in the screw. Due to its small size, it is screwed in with lightning speed.

The screw can be screwed in at a slight angle. For example, 60 °, thereby pressing the clamp well against the lining.

If you need to dismantle the lining, the clamps fastened with self-tapping screws are quickly removed. And for example, nails will not let you do this.

The biggest plus of cleats is invisibility. Often this covers all the disadvantages of which there are many.

What is the lining attached to?

Since this topic is for a separate article. Let's consider just a few points.

First, the crate is recruited. Usually, a rail with a thickness of 18 -20 mm, a width of 30 - 40 mm is used.

A clamp or self-tapping screws is screwed in the center of the rail. Based on the calculation - one fastener point holds 0.8 m of wooden lining.

Self-tapping screws can be hidden from view, for example, with a ceiling fillet or a floor plinth.

In inconspicuous places we screw in a self-tapping screw, and where the lining is in plain sight we put a clamp.