Do-it-yourself felling in the paw. Do-it-yourself log house: step-by-step instructions on how to make a log bath yourself. How to cut a longitudinal groove

Today, houses in which wood is the fundamental material are rapidly gaining popularity among the population. However, hiring qualified specialists to build a wooden structure may seem expensive to some people. The solution is to get to work on your own. But, not knowing the basics, not possessing the necessary skills, most often it turns out not at all what was expected. To successfully complete the work, you need to know at least a minimum, for example, how to cut into a paw and a bowl on a log or bar.

Pros and cons of these methods

A characteristic feature of forcing a log house into a paw is that the ends of the logs do not go beyond the corners of a house under construction. Comparing with a saw cut into a bowl, this method is more or less simple when cutting grooves, this is its main advantage. In addition, the use of this method allows you to save material for construction, since a bar or round timber is used completely and for its entire length.

However, as good as it may sound, there are drawbacks with this method of felling into the paw. The house created by this method has a reduced stability. In addition to this, its corners have high thermal conductivity, which negatively affects the temperature in the house. It is because of this that additional insulation is provided for such log cabins.

But there is a way to make a plus from a minus, and in a fairly short time. After the construction of such a log house, the inside is covered with an effective finishing material, for example, siding, the problem is solved by itself. This method will to some extent protect the warmth of the house from wasted work, and will also look very dignified. But for a house made with a saw cut into a bowl with the ends of the corners that have a protruding appearance, this procedure is simply not available.

Laying out a log house

It is quite simple to make grooves, however, it is possible to make high-quality felling into a paw only with proper marking of the ends of the logs and beams. If you use a timber, then the material should always have the same thickness, the more massive the log, the less the number of connecting grooves in the corners will become, thanks to which the building will be much warmer. For a log cut sample, a smaller log should be taken, and then others should be compared.

Considering the diameter of the beam, the dimensions of the leg can be set according to the table below:

When marking a bar, it will be easier to make a template version than to process each one separately. Most often, templates are made of thick cardboard. Marking is done with a simple overlay on the ends of the logs. For a high-quality log cut, you will need:

hacksaw;
axe;
chisel;
electric or ordinary plane;
roulette;
level;
plumb line;
hammer;
mallet.

The plane is working on the area looking into the future room. The other side of the timber should be processed only from the ends, the length of the section is processed in compliance with the dimensions of approximately 2-2.5 log diameters. The rest of the sides are processed from the ends by 1-1.5 each.

Paw cutting technique

Initially, he lays the casing, after which they begin to cut the rest of the frame. In the designated area, two logs are placed in parallel. Subsequent ones are installed on their ends at an angle of 90 degrees. The fruit of these labors should be a square, subsequently adjusted to a common regular plane. Marking is applied to the ends, after which grooves are cut out for laying the logs. The maximum groove cutting depth in no case can be more than 1/2 of the log thickness.
The most massive logs should be put on the assembly of the cap. The reliability and stability of the house as a whole directly depends on how well and smoothly it will be executed.

And so, after the hole is completed, a log is inserted into it from above. The upper section of which also needs to be prepared for the next. The marking and preparation of grooves should be treated very scrupulously. Installation of the next crown should be carried out with the greatest accuracy of fitting into the recess. And this concerns, not only the correctness of the entry of the crown into the nest. It is always necessary to control the vertical and horizontal setting of the crowns.

Using a paw cutter, the method of setting the crowns is slightly different. Installation is carried out with a crown on a crown, if the timber made of wood has equal edges. When building a house from a log, the upper part of the crown is placed on the oval plane of the lower one.

For a tighter joining of the material, a longitudinal groove is hollowed out in the lower part of the upper crown, and for the entire length of the log. After that, laying and inspection for possible curvature and tightness of the crowns is carried out. In the event that the tightness is insufficient, it is removed, the groove is leveled and the operation is repeated. After a sufficiently dense laying, it is allowed to switch to the next level.

It happens that the carpenter does not have the necessary qualifications and the "paws" are not sufficiently fitted in the corners of the structure, after which cracks appear. If with the help of an ax it is not possible to remove these slots, a wedge is used, which has the same dimensions with the slot, it is simply driven in there. However, such closure methods are best avoided.

Fastening the crowns

Using a paw cutter, the auxiliary anchoring of the crowns plays an important role. The logs are fixed in two ways: using plug-in or root spikes. Choosing the second method, you will provide the house with a more reliable fixation, the first, easier to work with.

Working according to the first system involves cutting out two crowns to be joined in the paws thanks to a sheer hole with a diameter of 3-4 cm. These slots are needed to install a wooden stake there, necessarily of equal diameter. There should be two thorns in each paw. They should be inserted using a checkerboard pattern, so that there is no possibility of hitting one on the other. To enhance the strength of the entire frame, straight spikes are inserted along the entire length of the crowns every 1.4-2 m.

Professionals of this business, in pursuit of increasing the strength of the connection of the knots, came up with the idea of installing a special thorn in the junction of the crowns, called the "root". It must be installed in each lower crown. It looks like a small protrusion, depending on the thickness of the log, it can be from 2 to 4 cm. There is a correct opinion that the total space of the tenon should be equal to ¼ of the working space of the paw. Such a protrusion is installed only on the inner side of the corner, and a hole of the same size is made in the crown, which is superimposed on top.

With an understanding of the very process of felling in the paw, in the absence of work experience, it is better not to rush. Take 2-4 logs and practice on them. If you did everything correctly, and there are no gaps in the paw, then feel free to use them to build a house. However, a wrong job will immediately show what mistakes you make and what you are doing wrong. Incorrectly cut blanks must be inspected and analyzed, and the next batch should be done normally, taking into account errors.

The traditional material for the construction of a Russian bath is a solid log. In addition to an affordable price, a sawlog (aka round timber) attracts with another feature: a person with little experience in carpentry can make a log house with his own hands. You will need: the availability of time, the desire to self-study and theoretical training, combined with practice. Hence the purpose of our article - to explain clearly how to properly cut down a log sauna with a steam room.

We collect a bath from logs

The first task that must be solved in advance is the allocation of a site for the construction of a bath. Determine a location near your home, preferably near a pond or pool. The recommended location of the building and indents from other objects in the summer cottage or personal plot are shown in the diagram.

The next step is drawing up the layout of the premises, taking into account the allocated area. As a rule, there are 3 rooms in the sauna - a washing room, a steam room and a dressing room, which at the same time serves as a relaxation room. You can read more about the correct layout of the area. Now that the planning is over, let's take a closer look at how to chop and assemble your log bath.

So, the production of work is divided into the following stages:

Selection of materials and preparation of tools.
Foundation for a log house.
The cutting of the first crown and the subsequent assembly of the walls.

Selection of lumber

It is customary for us to build chopped houses from coniferous wood - pine, spruce and larch. It is better to lay the latter in the first 2-3 crowns, since it resists moisture well. Freshly cut wood is allowed to mature and dry for 1 month.

Reference. The ideal forest for erecting a log house is a part of the tree from the root (butt) to the beginning of the crown of the pine tree. There are almost no knots in this area, and the density of the tree is greater than at the top.

To build a reliable and durable log house with your own hands, select and prepare timber, taking into account our recommendations:

Discard trunks with obvious curvature, cracks or rot.
Do not use too thin or thick round timber. The diameter of the log should be between 20-35 cm (excluding bark).
Try to purchase winter felling lumber from forestries, as this wood contains more resins that resist decay.
Remove the bark from the logs with a special tool - a scraper, it affects the tree least of all.
After debarking, allow the trunks to dry for 3-4 days, otherwise you will have to draw marking lines on a wet surface, which is very inconvenient.

The diameter of the log decreases from the butt to the top

When selecting logs, consider one important feature: the diameter of the trunk necessarily decreases from the butt to the top. The technical name of the phenomenon is tapering, ideally it should not exceed 8 mm per 1 linear meter of round timber.

Advice. It doesn't matter when the slope exceeds the specified value. Before you cut down the bath, you need to disassemble the logs into pairs with the same indicator, and during construction, lay them according to the butt - top - butt scheme. An experienced carpenter will tell in detail about this laying technology in his video:

Tool for work

Skilled craftsmen know how to work with an ax dexterously and quickly, but even now they use power tools, which greatly facilitate work in the construction of log structures. The optimal set of carpenter-builder looks like this:

chain saw - electric or gasoline;
an ax and a hacksaw;
wooden and ordinary hammer;
electric planer;
drill;
chisels of different sizes;
measuring instruments - tape measure, ruler, plumb line, square and building level.

To mark the trunks, you will also need a special device shown in the photo - a devil (otherwise - a scriber). To make it, you need to take a thick steel wire, sharpen the ends and bend it in the form of a compass.

Laying the foundation

Log houses are heavy structures, and therefore it is better for them to fill in a tape-type concrete foundation. An exception is a mini-bath with a size of 3 x 3 m, under which you can make brick or block pillars, and then put the first crown on these pedestals. In other cases, it is necessary to mark the contours of the building on the ground and dig a trench 40-50 cm wide around the perimeter. You need to deepen to a stable soil layer, lying 0.5-1.5 m from the surface (depending on the region).

Compact the bottom of the trench and make a sand cushion 10-15 cm thick. Tamp the sand too.
Make and install the formwork from wooden panels, whose height should be equal to the level of the future basement. To prevent the sides from moving apart, use supports made of timber and boards, as shown in the photo.
Cover the pit together with the formwork with plastic wrap so that the cement laitance does not go into the ground when pouring.
From reinforcement - "corrugated" Ø10-16 mm, tie the frames with cells 100 x 150 mm and put them in the trench. The lower reinforcement belt should be raised above the bottom by means of spacers 4-5 cm high.

Pouring is carried out with concrete of a grade not lower than M150, prepared from 3 parts of sand and 5 of the same volumes of crushed stone per 1 measure of M400 Portland cement. During the laying process, the concrete mix is compacted with vibrators, and in their absence - with long steel rods. The base will take 4 weeks to cure, the formwork can be removed after 7-9 days.

Advice. So that you do not have to cut or longitudinally cut the logs of the first crown and thereby reduce the durability of the structure, make a foundation tape at different levels. How this is implemented in practice, see the next video.

Installation of the first crown

The first step is to protect the wood from sticking and subsequent rotting. To do this, lay a waterproofing of two layers of roofing material on the foundation, and treat the trunks with an antiseptic compound. It is also possible to make an additional gasket from a bar with a thickness of 50-100 mm under the lower tier. Then the most interesting thing begins - the cutting of the flap.

There are several ways to join logs at corners:

into the top or bottom bowl;
the same, with a hidden thorn (fat tail);
in the paw;
using simple rectangular cutouts (the so-called Russian corner).

The simplest cutting of corners

Reference. Russian felling methods are listed here, in addition to them, Canadian and Norwegian technology is used, but it is more difficult to execute.

Bowl cut

The rectangular groove connection shown in the photo is only suitable for building a barn. Due to straight gaps, even if caulked, such an angle will turn out to be cold, which is unacceptable for a bath. Docking "in the paw" is more reliable, but modern carpenters are rarely used because of the complexity. For beginners, we propose to master a relatively simple and "warm" option - cutting into the upper bowl with a hidden spike, otherwise - into the chuck.

Before assembling the cap, it is necessary to cut the round timber along its entire length in order to increase the area of contact with the foundation. The width of the contact patch should be at least 12 cm. To ensure this, lay the log on a concrete strip and mark with a line, supported by one end on the surface of the foundation.

Drawing a line of sieve with a scriber

To speed up the work, make crosscut cuts with a chain saw every 10-15 cm, then cut the wood lengthwise and chop off the excess with an ax. Make a fine selection with an electric planer, or better with a scraper.

Advice. In the center of the chamfered side, try to make a groove up to 5 mm deep for a good compaction. How the master does it, it is worth watching the video:

Now let's look at how to cut the corner of the flange:

Place the trunks in the design position, one on top of the other, and align horizontally with shims. Sketch the contours of the bowl in the upper log, resting on the lower one with the second end. Its depth is equal to half the diameter of the supporting round timber, which is reflected in the diagram.
The maximum height of the hidden longitudinal spike is 5 cm. Also mark it before filing.
Using a chainsaw, make several transverse cuts, not reaching the marking lines by 3-5 mm.
Chop away any excess wood and clean the edges of the bowl with an ax, strictly along the line. Form a spike in the same way, and cut a groove on the counter log.

An important point. When erecting a log house for a bathhouse, the final heaving is done with an ax or a scraper, mechanized processing is used only for the formation of cups and grooves. The fact is that electric planers, grinders and chain saws strongly disclose wood fibers, where moisture is subsequently absorbed.

When all 4 corners have been cut down, the trunks are laid on a foundation with a layer of moss or jute fiber (it is also stuffed into the joints of lumber) and tightly fit into the grooves using a wooden hand rammer. Please note: the connection to the concrete base is not used, the structure is rigidly fixed on the groove-spike joints and stands confidently due to the decent weight.

Walling

The rest of the crowns are mounted on a flap using the same technology - bowls with spikes are cut at the corners, which cover the logs of the previous tier. After a tight nozzle with a moss gasket, an additional connection with wooden dowels is required, they are also dowels.

Note. Traditional technology does not include any of the metal connectors commonly used by today's builders. Being in the thickness of the tree, cold metal becomes covered with condensation, causing rusting and accelerated decay of timber.

Moss is the best insulating material for a chopped sauna

A few words about how to assemble the second and subsequent wreaths of a log house:

The lower part of the trunks is not flattened, but in the form of a semicircle in order to clearly cover the previous round timber.
When marking, lay the logs in such a way that the centers of all wall elements are on the same vertical.
Cut out the cups and grooves with an allowance of 8-10 mm for laying the sealant - wild moss, felt or jute.
After forming the bowls, try on each stem in place. If it fits with a gap of more than 5 mm, an adjustment will have to be made. The whole process is shown in more detail in the video:

So that in the process of shrinkage and further operation, the chopped bath does not squint from the horizontal movement of the elements, they must be fastened together with dowels. These are rods with a diameter of 22-30 mm turned from dry wood, hammered into vertical holes after laying each crown. Hole drilling step - 0.8-1 m, depth - at least 2 log diameters. To avoid falling into the previous dowels during subsequent drilling and driving, they should be staggered.

Vertical bunch of crowns with dowels

When you need to extend the length of the log, use one of two connection methods - root spike and dovetail. In the first case, the vertical groove and spike at the end of the log is rectangular, and in the second, trapezoidal, which is shown in the photo. When joining the elements of the outer walls, a clearance of 8 mm must be provided for the sealing gasket.

Splice with root spine (left) and dovetail (right)

An important point. After laying the connected trunks into the wall of the log house, the joint must be lined up on both sides.

The log walls of the bathhouse are covered with a gable roof on top. It is easier to assemble it from beams and boards, which is described in detail. You can make a rafter system from logs, but this process is much more complicated.

Window openings

There are 2 ways of edging door and window openings:

Into the deck. In this case, a 5 x 5 cm spike is formed along the perimeter of the opening, on which the casing is subsequently attached.
With a mortgage bar. A groove is cut out along the ends of the logs, where a mortgage bar is then installed for mounting the window.

The first option is more expensive and time-consuming - shortening the logs for cutting the thorn should be foreseen even at the stage of building the bath. The casing is manufactured with an internal groove that fits over the finished flange. Along the perimeter of the window, it is sealed with the same material that was used for warming between the joints (caulking).

The second method is realized after the construction of a log house by cutting a groove in the ends of the round timber. Then a mortgage bar is hammered into it, forming the same thorn. The further order of installation of the box is repeated, as shown in the diagram.

Conclusion

If in the process of building a log house with your own hands you follow the above technology and work without haste, then you will surely get a solid and strong bath that will last for more than a dozen years. But do not rush to put the structure into operation - the log structure must stand at least 1 year for shrinkage. After that, you can do the caulking of the joints and the interior arrangement of the bath rooms.

Design engineer with over 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from the East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dahl with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

Related entries:

Let's consider another way of joining logs in the corners of a log house - cutting into a paw. During the construction of log cabins, it is one of the most common types.

However, in contrast to manual chopping into a bowl, a corner cut into a paw requires special precision, since careless processing of the ends of the logs can lead to severe deformation of the log walls. In addition, the corners of the log "in the paw" are less protected from the influence of the surrounding atmosphere. But there are also positive properties from the assembly of the log of a bathhouse or other buildings in this way. This is a saving in building material, because the logs are cut without residue, that is, the ends of the logs do not go beyond the outer walls. If the walls of a log house are erected from a profiled bar, then cutting into a paw is, in fact, the only possible way.

Marking and initial processing for felling in the paw

If rounded logs are used as the main material for the bath, this will greatly simplify the matter. Another thing is when the log house of the bathhouse will be built from solid logs. In this case, you will need to start choosing the right log.

In short, you should choose from the logs the one that has the smallest diameter at the end. What is it for? The fact is that when removing humps when processing a "blockhead", it is necessary to guarantee this operation for all logs. If you choose, for example, the largest one, it may turn out that the smallest log cannot be processed. It is not good!

Note: interesting is the origin of the word "blockhead" in Russian. Oddly enough, it comes from the Dutch language and means "bull-headed", and according to Dahl's dictionary it is interpreted as "a cut of a log, a block of wood ..., an idol ...". In the common people, it received its further interpretation, having lost its original meaning. So, basically, people who are not too advanced in the mind were called (and are called) a fool. " Growth from Ivan, and mind from a blockhead"- this is one of the many Russian sayings.

Nevertheless, for convenience, we will agree to call the finished end of the log "dummy" without quotation marks, no matter how euphonious it may sound. So, the necessary log is selected, and you can start processing it.

Our task at this stage of felling into the paw is to process the selected log, obtaining the same configuration of dummies at both ends (of course - with acceptable tolerances). They will serve as models for all other logs. We will be guided by GOST 30974-02, which gives the standard dimensions for corner joints in the "paw" method.

First of all, suppose that the smallest diameter of the log is 200 mm, for which we will make all further calculations. Then we do this:

Using a tape measure, we find the centers at both ends.
Using a plumb line, at the end with a smaller diameter, draw two symmetrical vertical lines relative to this center. Moreover, we choose the distance between them according to the above table, namely - A = 141 mm. We also draw two horizontal symmetrical lines.
We cut the humps from all sides, not reaching the marked lines by 10-15 mm and cut (saw off) them. The length of the logs' horizontal planes should not be less than the largest diameter of all the selected logs. The length of the vertical planes should be such that later it would be possible to close the corners with boards, on the one hand, and ensure assembly on the other. As a rule, it is made equal to the largest diameter of the log, for example 250 mm. Then we cut the blockhead to its final dimensions - 141 mm. As a result, we get a prism with a square section, which we process again in one of two ways:

We divide all the vertical planes of the dummy into 8 equal parts (approximately 17 mm each) and draw parallel horizontal lines through them. We cut the block out so that we get two inclined planes (see figure) passing through different horizontal lines with an inclination relative to the horizontal axis of the log;
We take the dimensions according to the table for a diameter of 200 mm, draw the corresponding lines on the vertical planes of the boob.

We cut the log along the lines drawn.
We repeat the same for the second end.

This way all the logs can be processed and stacked on top of each other. Or make a template using ready-made paws from plywood (cardboard) and trim the remaining logs along it. But, if the marking of the paw and the longitudinal groove is made using a carpenter's "line", then we read the next chapter.

Log felling into a paw with a longitudinal groove

The logs of the flap (lower) crown of the log house are made in a slightly different way. First, on opposite walls, one log is laid only with the upper grooves of the paws. The bottom grooves do not need to be made. Then they are fitted into one horizontal plane by cutting the lower humps.

On the paws of boobies, transverse logs with ready-made paws are laid. If the paws are not ready, then they are drawn with a "line" or template, repeating the profiles according to the required dimensions.

Subsequent crowns are collected by imposing a new log on the hump of the lower one. Then the line is bred by the size of the gap between adjacent paws and the contours of the lower longitudinal groove are drawn. After that, the log is removed, a longitudinal groove is cut in it, and re-fits into the paws of the lower crown. If necessary, an additional adjustment of the grooves and paws is made.

To ensure the reliability of the structure of the log house, assembled by the "cutting into the paw" method, so-called "notches" (main protrusions) and the corresponding landing grooves for them are made in them. Such an assembly does not allow, in the event of a large shrinkage of the log house, to leave the paws from the seats in the corner cut. True, the process of assembling a bathhouse is complicated, but, on the other hand, its quality is appropriate.

The final result of wood construction looks great. But few people know how much work it requires, remembering that in the old days, huts were chopped down without a single nail. Cutting corners is considered especially difficult, which has several methods and technologies. Firstly, all types of felling are almost the same technology, with the exception of a few. Secondly, to assemble a blockhouse "without a single nail" will require cutting not only the corners, but also an additional hitch - grooves, spikes and other things. So, how to cut a log house into a paw is the most popular felling.

Technology

The felling process has several solutions, its merits are as follows:

The technology is not too complicated, therefore it is understandable for beginners.
The entire length of the timber is used, and this significantly saves material.
The structure gets the correct shape without protruding corners.

But there are also disadvantages:

The corners, if not cleaned, require additional insulation.
The aesthetics are poor.
The log house is not very stable, unlike, for example, the so-called dovetail.

Preparation steps and assembly

The process - felling a log house into a paw, includes several stages:

Preparation. A bar or log needs to be shaped. To do this, one side is trimmed along the entire length with a planer - this is the inner part. Then the edges are processed, the tree is cut by 1.5 diameters, and the shape of the end should resemble a square or rectangle.
The beginning of the warehouse. The first crown is done like this: a beam or logs are placed opposite each other strictly parallel, and two more are placed on them - the paws should touch tightly, if due to inexperience this did not happen, then it is no longer possible to fix it with an ax, it is better to drive a wedge, although venerable cutters do it is not recommended.
Now, assembling a log into a paw implies a definition with a type of fastener. If the craftsmen do not use nails, staples and other things, then holes are made for thorns - wooden stakes.

They should be slightly larger than the diameter of the circle where they will enter, this is a reliable mount. The structure can be strengthened if such stakes are used along the entire length.

The second method of fastening requires great skill - a spike is cut out on the paw itself, which should be in ¼ of the entire area of the paw, and the next upper element is drilled under it, and thus, the structure is strengthened thoroughly.

Also, the assembly process goes with additional work on the insulation and sealing of the log house. For this purpose, the surface of the beams is shifted with tow, moss, and the inner side is trimmed to create proportional sides. If the timber was not subjected to protective materials before work, then this must be done immediately, otherwise rotting and mold are provided.

Tool

The venerable carpenter, who began to cut logs while still under the supervision of his father or grandfather, does all the work with only an ax. A beginner cutter needs a whole list:

Chainsaw. The manual sawing process will take a lifetime.
Axe.
Hammer.
Caulking tools.
Building level or rope.
Pencil, square, measuring instruments.

It's not a bad idea to first make a sketch of your work, and at the same time calculate how much material will be spent on the process and marriage. And is your own work worth the ruin. Perhaps, having calculated everything, the owner of the construction site will decide to hire a team to work.

Craftsmen have all the skills and can suggest a way to cut the corners of the future house, just in one inspection of the timber. Because when buying a material, it is worth considering it from all sides and understanding the degree of quality:

A bar is suitable for a "paw" if it has no visible damage or cracks.
The timber will also respond to the quality, without a trace of knots or any other damage.
You cannot buy, let alone chop timber, if it is visually damp. However, even dry at first glance requires drying. In general, how much the degree of dryness corresponds to the declared one can be recognized by weight - wet, of course, is heavier.

Pre-assembly

A lot of time will pass before the timber begins to take shape as a constructor. We'll have to put together a bar "for the gimmick", that is, to carry out a dress rehearsal. The house or bath is assembled, the elements are carefully numbered, then disassembled and dried.

It is necessary to carry out such a process in order to avoid the risk of shrinkage of the already assembled log house, and thus, to protect yourself from unnecessary expenses and work. Also, during this period, you can carry out the processing of each log or bar, so that later you do not waste time on this. After the house is assembled and caulking is made, the final result of cutting using this technology will become clear only a year later, when the first shrinkage of the house or bath occurs.

Advance paynemt

Before you ask yourself the question - how to cut down a house in your paw, you need to think about the problems associated with such a felling without sufficient qualifications. paw. When shrinking, this will inevitably affect, and if you do not notice the problem in time, then everything will turn out to be deplorable - the log house runs the risk of falling apart. Such flaws are solved by inserting wedges into cracked places and timely caulking. Secondly, the corners when cutting a log house into a paw will require additional insulation either from the outside or a denser layer of thermal insulation from the inside. From the street, you can apply polyurethane foam, but then you should not expect any beauty - this method is good if the house is intended for cladding. And, in general, chopped houses "in the paw" are very beautiful, especially after decorative processing. This includes varnish, paint, stain and more. Only log cabins intended for a bath should not be treated with chemicals.

And the last, if we neglect the additional fasteners along the entire length of the timber, then over time the tree will "lead", plus the frame will shrink. Needless to say, what happens then? All of the above mistakes are far from the last, so before you gather your courage and decide for yourself the question of how to cut a log house in your paw, you need to calculate your strength, because not everyone has the courage to start all over again.

There are various technologies for felling log cabins. One of the most common among them is the felling of a log house in the paw.

Log house advantages

Like other felling methods, this method has its merits.

Pros of cutting in the paw:

the absence of a bulging part of the log in the corner joint;
felling logs into a paw has an attractive, aesthetic appearance, compared to other methods;
this method is convenient for sheathing a log house with siding. The logs do not stick out, so it is easy to apply finishing material on them. This applies, as wall cladding with metal or vinyl;
an economical way of cutting wooden logs, which means a cheaper estimate for construction work.

Disadvantages of a log house

In addition to its advantages, this method also has its disadvantages.

Cons of log cabins in the paw:

this method does not make it possible to build walls that would meet the necessary requirements for heat consumption. There is a constant loss of heat inside the premises. Cold air travels faster along the logs than across. It turns out that it’s easier for the heat to get out.
How to cut a log house into a paw can be found in special literature. But it is quite difficult to do this work without special skills. This is a job for highly skilled craftsmen. If something is done incorrectly, then after a certain period of operation of the log house, the logs will begin to move, i.e. the wall will simply "float".
A building object that was created this way is considered short-lived and unreliable. Water easily penetrates into the frame. In winter, it can freeze and severely damage the log.

Options for felling log cabins in the paw

Wizards distinguish between several options:

straight paw with an undercut;
oblique paw with an undercut;
dovetail.

The most fragile of the three log joints is the straight leg with an undercut. Because of this, a rectangular root spike is additionally installed. It is placed inside the corner of the joint from the top side. And from the lower side, a special groove is created for a thorn.

Cutting into an oblique paw is a complex procedure. Professional experts advise using templates. Those. after the very first connection element is made, a template must be created from a plywood sheet. With its help, after and carry out the marking on other log cabins. This will facilitate the process of marking the material.

Cutting stages

We have already figured out what a log house is. Now it is necessary to disassemble the stages of the work. Everything is done in a specific sequence:

The blanks are being prepared for work. Cutting is performed from the top and bottom. It is strictly necessary to ensure that the depth of the curtains should be exactly equal to their width. Outwardly, it should look like a geometric figure called a "parallelogram". He has one imaginary side. The parallelogram is turned towards the master with its square section.
Let's move on to processing the parallelogram. Its end should be divided into 8 horizontal parts.
Depending on what type of paw was chosen, the necessary points are placed on the plane.
Lines are drawn from future runways. The angles of the felling of the paw depend on where and how the notches on the log will be.
The excess part of the building material is removed according to the applied markings.
A plywood template is made according to the sample of the manufactured joint.

Schemes and markings for making paws

During the drawing work, you need to decide what shape of the joint will be cut out. According to the scheme, it can be with or without an undercut. The angle of connection of parts depends on this.

Experts advise to use special technical documentation (GOST 30974-2002) during the logging in the paw. There are written the recommended connection sizes for logs of different diameters. This makes it especially easy to work if all wood blanks have the same diameter.

Foot joint dimensions
Diameter, mm	Dimensions, mm
Diameter, mm	a	b	c	f

Finishing a log house in a paw

Log felling in the paw

Many will agree with the statement that a magical atmosphere reigns in a wooden house. Such a "hut" seems to have come out of a fairy tale, and looks quite harmoniously both in the forest and in the suburbs of the metropolis. If you dream of creating just such a house, you should use the Canadian felling method. About ten years ago, few people heard about this method, but today the Canadian felling is quite common. It is noteworthy that in Canada this method has been used since the 70s of the last century, and, therefore, the technology has been tested by time.

08 january