Brick house of 1.5 bricks. Subtleties of brickwork with insulation. The nuances of masonry facing wall

Warm brickwork

One of the most reliable and, perhaps, one of the most expensive technologies for erecting load-bearing walls - brickwork - has many advantages and is not free from a number of disadvantages. And to the number these shortcomings, in addition to the high cost of work and material, most often also include the low thermal inertia of brick walls.

Moreover, most reference books indicate that for successful resistance low temperatures the brickwork of the walls should have a depth of almost one meter.

That is why, in almost all modern projects special brickwork with insulation is used. And this technological method allows not only to increase the thermal inertia of the masonry, but also contributes to a significant reduction in the construction budget. Indeed, depending on the number of storeys of the building, in order to achieve the bearing strength, it is enough to equip the masonry with a thickness of 1.5 bricks, and the heat resistance of the building will be provided with a layer of insulation.

As a result, using a combination of bricks and insulation, you can significantly reduce the load on the foundation. In addition, such a wall can be folded with little labor. And, in the end, insulated masonry makes it possible to save on building materials.

And the main construction document, which regulates brickwork - SNiP "Bearing and Fencing Structures" - claims that solid masonry with a thickness of more than 38 centimeters (1.5 bricks) is simply inexpedient from an economic point of view.

Modern building technologies make it possible to implement insulation brickwork in several ways at once. But on by and large, such a variety is very easy to divide into two directions - external and internal insulation.

Brickwork walls with internal insulation realized with the help of air gaps and wells. This is what the voids created in the wall during masonry are called.

Air gaps can be arranged both in continuous load-bearing masonry and in the process of finishing with facing bricks. Voids 5-7 centimeters thick are formed by bandaging with pokes connecting parallel-lined walls. Moreover, the layers have a closed structure. Therefore, in order to ensure at least a minimum tightness, the wall with air gaps must be plastered.

This technology saves 15-20 percent of building material. The thermal inertia of a hollow wall exceeds the natural values ​​of solid masonry by at least 30 percent. In addition, there is also a hollow brickwork with insulation placed directly in the internal cavities. And mineral wool and polystyrene can act as such a heater. Moreover, in the latter case, the thermal inertia of the masonry increases by 100 percent!

However, the main construction document that regulates brickwork - SNiP 3.03.01-87 - claims that in addition to the technology for erecting a wall with air gaps, there is also a "well masonry" - such masonry is FORBIDDEN to use !!!

According to this technology, the load-bearing wall is formed from the outer and inner walls, connected by means of solid bridges (diaphragms). Moreover, in contrast to closed interlayers, wells have an open structure, which makes it possible to use various fillings or lightweight concrete as insulation.

Of course, such "omnivorousness" contributes to an even greater efficiency of the construction process, which is characterized by well brickwork - SNiP allows you to use sawdust, tuff, expanded clay, foam concrete, and a number of other, inexpensive materials as insulation.

However, with all the advantages of the option with internal insulation, this technology has one significant drawback - the implementation of such a scheme can only be carried out during the construction of a building. Therefore, if an error crept into the architect's calculations, then the owner of an already built structure will have to turn to other solutions. AND good example a similar solution is the brickwork of the walls with external insulation.

This scheme involves the arrangement of an additional external or internal heat-insulating coating. A complex system of "warm facade" and a fairly accessible scheme involving the use of heat-resistant plaster can act as such a coating. The final solution depends on the specific climatic conditions.

In addition, from a technological point of view, brickwork with insulation located outside or inside the building does not differ from ordinary solid masonry - there are no complex dressings, no diaphragms, no bridges. And this means that even an unskilled bricklayer can cope with such masonry.

As a result, we can argue that the scheme with external insulation is not only the most economical, but also the least laborious solution to the problem of heat resistance of brickwork.

Wall construction technology

Brick scheme.

• 1. Laying starts from the corners of the building. Using the building level, you need to make sure that all the bricks that lie first in the row of each of the walls are perpendicular to each other.
• 2. It is necessary to hammer nails into the seams between the second and the first (in height) and attach a cord to them, which will indicate the level of the first row. The distance between brick and cord during laying should be 2 mm.
• 3. Taking this cord as a reference point, you can start laying the first row. It is necessary that with outside the wall was the butt-plane of all the bricks. From the inside of the brickwork of the first row, the building material must be positioned so that the spoon part is directed towards the inside of the room. As a result, it looks like this: the inner part of the wall is laid out in half a brick, and the outer part is in one piece.
• 4. After laying the first row, the second row is laid out with an arrangement in reverse order... Now the butt part looks inward, and the spoon part looks outward. As a result, we get a mirror image of the laid out first row: the inside of the wall is laid in brick, and the outside is in half a brick.
• 5. The building material is placed on the laid out mortar at a small distance from each other. When the next brick is laid, the mortar should move back a little. The solution must be evenly and correctly distributed. To do this, you need to slightly move the material back and forth along the plane.
• 6. After that, it must be moved in the direction of the previously laid material. The jagged plane of the building material should capture part of the mortar and move it into the seam between the located bricks. Due to this action, you can get a high-quality and beautiful vertical seam.
• 7. Then the material must be pressed in the vertical direction - this is how the alignment is made with respect to other bricks. For better adhesion to the mortar on the upper plane of the brick, you need to hit the mortar with the back of the trowel. After that, excess mortar is removed from the surface of the brick.
• 8. Such laying receives the necessary strength due to the mismatch of the vertical joints, as well as due to the fact that they are overlapped by the solid surface of the bricks. During laying, it is necessary to carefully control the width of the seam. If the seam size increases, it may mean that there is a deviation from the right direction brickwork or from the vertical of the masonry.

masonry corner brick mix

The solution can be used the same as for other methods of installation. The cooking recipe depends on the quality of the building material used. During work, protective measures must be taken: wear gloves, protect eyes, etc. This type of wall construction will require a large number time and effort. It is better to prepare the solution in small portions. Do not forget to moisten the building material with water before laying (otherwise it will pull it out of the solution). To do this, you can use a bucket of water.

A wall built using this scheme will stand for a very long time. It makes sense to build it if you are not limited in the amount of required building material or if you are building a house in areas where the strength of the building is a necessity. Such masonry significantly reduces the risk of delamination of the wall material. If the construction of a "fortress" is not included in your plans, then you can use other effective methods brick laying... In any case, when starting to create a building project, it is better to adhere to the brick laying scheme that experts advise.

1.5 brick corner masonry

When erecting brick walls, special attention should be paid to correct laying corners of the future building. It is the corners that serve as the basis for the construction of brick walls. And it doesn't matter if you build brick bath, garage or cottage - mistakes made when laying out corners can lead to a violation of the geometry of the walls, their strength and stability.

At the beginning of construction, orders are established in the corners along a plumb line. As a rule, when building brick walls, the masonry of the corners is 3-4 rows ahead of the masonry of the walls.

In the article How to make brick walls for a bath, some useful tips on laying out the corners, and in the publication of the Bricklaying System, you can find not only schemes for dressing seams at intersections and abutments, but also schemes for correct dressing when erecting masonry corners of walls in 1.5 and 2 bricks.

Let's look at a few more schemes for laying the corners of brick walls of different thicknesses.

To perform bandaging of masonry joints in the corners, not only full-size bricks are used, but also halves and quarters of bricks, as well as three-quarters in size ѕ bricks. Symbol bricks different sizes shown in the figure below:

Laying a corner of 1 brick The easiest way is to lay corners when erecting walls 1 brick (250 mm) thick. The scheme of laying corners in 1 brick with a single-row dressing is shown below:

With multi-row dressing, laying 1 brick corners will look like this:

As you can see, the schemes are quite simple and you can easily lay out the butt and spoon rows yourself with your own hands without involving a team of qualified bricklayers.

1.5 brick corner masonry

When building walls of 1.5 bricks (380 mm), the layout of the corners will be somewhat more complicated.

How to make corners of 1.5 bricks with a single-row dressing is shown in the figure below:

Laying corners of 1.5 bricks with multi-row dressing:

2 brick corner masonry

If it is necessary to perform masonry in 2 bricks (510 mm), the corners are laid out as shown in the figures below.

Laying corners in 2 bricks with single-row dressing:

Laying corners with multi-row dressing:

Now you know how to bandage brickwork in the corners when erecting walls of 1, 1.5 and 2 bricks.

We continue our traditional series of articles from Yuri Voedilo (professional builder and repairman). Yuri writes:

V Lately heating prices are growing enormously, so many people pay great attention to external wall insulation. Therefore, I decided to pay attention to this topic. This article will discuss the insulation of external walls. brick house facing brick. Next, we will talk about the tricks of laying the brick itself and the need for bulk insulation. Also, in the article we will give examples of laying out an arch.

The house is lined with ceramic bricks and has a very nice and tidy look. But only under the condition that the brick is laid correctly, that is, the seams must be even and clean, and the brick itself is not stained with mortar and must not have cracks.

Stage 1. Mortar for facing bricks

For work we need the following tools:

• Construction trowel;
• Building level;
• Thread or fishing line
• Rod 8-12 mm (square reinforcement);
• Grinder with a circle on concrete;
• Cement, sand;
• Foam plastic in bulk.

First, let's prepare a solution. All by standard scheme one part of cement grade 400 and three parts of sand, preferably not riverine, since the solution is river sand sit down very quickly. But if you don't have any other sand, then add a plasticizer to the solution, you can buy it at any hardware store. The density of the mortar should be such that it can be easily picked up with a trowel and applied to the brick. More and more often, they add different kind pigments (special dyes). Therefore, a little advice: before buying a brick, consider combining the color of the brick with the color of the seam itself. In our case, the client wanted a classic seam color, that is, gray.

Stage 2. Laying of ceramic (facing) bricks

There is a lot of information on the Internet about how a brick is laid, so I think it's not worth writing about the basic principles. But there is not so much about the features of ceramic brick laying, tk. high-quality brick insulation of a house requires special attention.

The work will start by laying out the corners. Masonry from facing brick you need to lay down only on the waterproofing. To do this, use roofing material or thick plastic wrap. In our case, the waterproofing was laid in the foundation itself, so we began to lay the masonry directly on the foundation. Having retreated from the main wall 4-5 centimeters, we will make the masonry. We retreat these 4-5 cm for an air gap, later I will explain why. You need to lay the ceramics in the same way as a regular brick, but only under a metal rod with a section of 8 by 8 or 10 by 10, 12 by 12 millimeters.

And the way it is done: the metal rod is placed directly on the masonry itself along the front edge of the brick, and a solution is applied near it. So that the thickness of the applied solution near the twig itself is no higher than the twig itself. And on the back side, the solution was ten millimeters higher. This effect is easy to achieve if the mortar is cut along the twig with a construction trowel, while the trowel is kept at an angle.

The vertical seam is applied in the same way, only the twig is placed vertically to the end side of the brick (butt). The twig itself will not stand, so you have to hold it while applying the solution.

Note: after about 2-3 hours of work, wipe the seams with a small brush. At the same time, if there are holes or scuffs in the seams, be sure to cover them! Otherwise, with temperature drops of +/- degrees, water will get there and, when freezing, it will tear the seam, and after a while the brick itself. All drops of solution from the wall must also be wiped off with a rag, as it will be much harder to wipe after drying. By the way, after a while, white spots may appear on the wall. This is the salt that was in the sand protrudes. There is nothing terrible here, she can be easily wiped off with a rag, well, or you need to wait until the rain will wash her away.

Facing brick laying is a painstaking process that requires accuracy. Therefore, be patient.

Stage 3. Making a frame for a brick arch

In order to lay out an arch from bricks, first we need to make a frame under it. We don't need beauty here. Superior strength and smooth bending. We take a USB sheet 10 mm thick and cut out two crescent strips with a width of at least 6 centimeters with a jigsaw. The length and bend of the crescents are individual for each window.

Next, these crescents need to be twisted together, as shown in the photo below. We use old bars for this, their thickness may be different, but the width is the same from 10 to 12 centimeters. And the length is equal to the height of our windows.

We insert the bars between two crescents and twist them with self-tapping screws 45 mm long after which the frame is ready for use.

Stage 4. Making the arch

Having installed the frame in the place where the arched window will be, we begin to cover the frame with a brick on top.

Only now we will lay the brick not horizontally, but vertically with the butt side on the face of the masonry. But since the length of the brick is 25 cm, and the width of our masonry is 17 cm (the width of the brick is 12.5 cm + the air gap is 4-5 cm), then the brick will have to be cut to length. For cutting bricks, we will use a grinder with a diamond wheel for concrete.

The adjoining bricks of the main wall will also need to be cut at an angle. The arch should be in relation to the main wall on a plane at the same level or protrude outward by 2-4 cm, this is a matter of the client's taste. In a day, three frames of the arch can be safely disassembled. The arch is ready.

Stage 5. Thermal insulation of brick walls of the house with foam outside

We will fill the air gap that we left between the main wall and the ceramic brick. This is an integral part of the cladding of the house with facing bricks with insulation. Next is the question: what should be the insulation between brick wall and facing bricks? To do this, we decided to use free-flowing foam, which is sold in bags. Why exactly him, and not sheet polystyrene?

Here's why. The first advantage: if the walls of the building, for some reason, were not even, then the free-flowing foam will not react in any way when backfilling. But with the sheet you will have to suffer. The second advantage: mice can start in the foam sheet and make themselves a lot of moves and holes. V free flowing foam it is impossible to make a move since mice do not have the ability to climb on it. Raking with their paws, they sharpen like a truck in the mud, staying in place.

Before pouring the foam into the wall, you need to close the cracks around the perimeter of windows and doors with mineral wool or foam sheets. Moreover, the latter is better, since when filling the slopes, it will be easier to apply the putty to the foam.

Note: in order to insulate the walls of a brick house outside in windy weather without incidents, I do not advise you to fill up foam plastic. All the foam will fly around your yard at best, and at worst, even sweep your neighbors.

Attention! We received a response that with such insulation during the year, the foam filled in in this way can sag on three meters of the height of the house about 60-70 cm. There was an experience of dismantling such walls. Experience has shown that insulation of voids has little effect. In this material, it was seen in the photo that they had the opportunity to attach ordinary foam to the walls, even with glue-foam. And then lay the masonry. The difference in the price of materials is not significant.
This can be corrected by blowing perlite into the formed voids in the upper part of the masonry.

Yuri, the author of the article answers: To provide for shrinkage, we rammed foam crumbs through each meter of height. In addition, for backfilling after two or three years, it is enough to remove the hem and do the backfill. And yet, the difference in price is not significant, but there are two but ... 1. In such foam, mice start up three times less often and not for long, since they are not comfortable making moves there and they simply fall down. 2. Using sheet polystyrene, you need more or less Smooth surface, for bulk it is useless.

o-builder.ru

Brick wall insulation options

If we are talking about brick walls, then there are a lot of options for their insulation, but all of them can be divided into three groups based on their location:

1. Internal location. The insulation is mounted on the wall inside the room.
2. Insulation of walls between brickwork. Thermal insulation material is placed between the layers of bricks.
3. External or facade insulation. There are options here: wet, when the insulation is mounted on the wall and covered with plaster, and dry, when hinged facade structures are used.

Let's take a quick look at these options.

Internal location

This is the most ineffective and even harmful method, since it cuts off the supporting structures from heating, which leads to a whole series of negative consequences... The only excuse for this method of insulation brick wall from the inside - this is the impossibility of other options.

Here is a list of the disadvantages of the internal location of the insulation:

• External walls that are main supporting structures buildings are cut off from the heating system, as a result of which they freeze completely, which leads to premature wear and tear of materials;
• Brickwork has a limited resource of freeze-thaw cycles, and once outside the heated area, it develops this resource much faster;
• The internal arrangement shifts the dew point, which leads to condensation falling out directly on the surface of the wall or in the thickness of the insulation, as a result - fungus, mold, corrosion and other troubles;
• The useful internal volume of the premises decreases;
• It becomes difficult to hang furniture and other accessories on the walls.

This is far from full list, but it is quite enough to be convinced of the insolvency this method insulation. Of course, it is more convenient and more comfortable to work indoors, the price of work is falling, but this is a weak excuse for violating construction axioms.

Advice!
Of course, it is not easy to insulate the wall of a multi-storey building at a high altitude with your own hands, but it is better to spend money once on professional installers than to suffer for years later.

Interlayer arrangement

This is enough effective method the location of the insulation.

However, there are some points here that should be pointed out:

• It is possible to carry out such insulation only at the construction stage, since otherwise it will be too expensive and unreasonably time consuming;
• All work should be carried out just perfect, since you will not have the opportunity to dismantle and remake;
• Repair or replacement of insulation is very difficult, if not impossible.

If this list doesn't scare you, then let's move on. How to choose insulation for brickwork? There are several options here: bulk materials, hard slabs and mineral wool.

The first method is the cheapest, but also the most ineffective. In addition, it is quite laborious, as it requires well masonry and other nuances. There is also a risk of dampness of bulk insulation and loss of its thermal insulation qualities.

When choosing slab insulation, you should be guided by the following principles: the material must have low hygroscopicity, and it is better to be hydrophobized, and it must also keep its shape well. Well, and, of course, have a long service life.

Several materials are suitable for these requirements: foam plastic, expanded polystyrene, foam glass, dense basalt wool.

It is also worth mentioning one more rule: the insulation is located as close to the outer layer as possible. That is, you build a wall using building brick ceramic or double silicate brick M 150, insulate it with a layer of thermal insulation in accordance with the installation rules for a particular material, and then lays out the facing layer of masonry in half a brick. This instruction is the most correct.

Important!
When using mineral wool, it is advised to leave a small gap of 1 - 2 centimeters between the insulation and the facing layer of the brick.
This will allow moisture to be removed from the insulation according to the same principle as in a ventilated facade.

Of all the materials listed, extruded polystyrene foam is the most suitable, since this material:

• not afraid of moisture,
• does not absorb it,
• strong enough in compression,
• not afraid of pests,
• biological or electrochemical corrosion,
• has a long shelf life.

External insulation

Facade insulation seems to be the most acceptable.

1. Firstly, it can be produced both during construction and on an old wall.
2. Secondly, this is a fairly simple procedure that does not require special skills and abilities.
3. Thirdly, the external location of the thermal insulation is most acceptable from the point of view of thermal physics, since it does not shift the dew point into the interior of the structure.

Finally, you always have access to the thermal insulation layer, and you can replace it or make any local repairs.

At facade insulation two main methods are used: wet and dry. The first involves the location of the insulation under the layer facade plaster or putty, which is applied wet.

The second method involves the use of hinged facade structures such as siding, blockhouse or classic ventilated façade.

Each of these methods has disadvantages and advantages, but in general, the wet method is more popular, since it is easier to perform and cheaper. On the other hand, a ventilated facade is more durable and allows any local repairs to be carried out by replacing one panel or insulation plate.

Conclusion

The main factor in wall insulation is the location of the insulation. The interior does not seem acceptable, but the intra-wall allows you to save external aesthetics and tectonics of brickwork, which is important for many connoisseurs. In the video presented in this article, you will find Additional information on this topic.

klademkirpich.ru

Insulated masonry: types, advantages and disadvantages

The technological process for the construction of a brick building with an insulating material inside is classified according to the place where the insulation is attached. The lightweight well technique includes two independent designs, inside, held together by small horizontal brick bridges or expanded polystyrene. Bricklaying with insulation offers the following advantages:

• The thickness of the insulation does not exceed the thickness of the structure.
• The substance inside is not flammable.
• Outside, the masonry looks like a brick wall, which allows you to decorate the structure.
• Can be erected at any time.

Despite all the advantages, two-layer walls have a number of disadvantages:

• require a lot of work;
• it is necessary to constantly monitor the state of the insulation inside;
• thermal uniformity at a low level;
• bridges keep cold;
• difficult to repair.

With a three-layer structure, a facing brick can be a vapor barrier.

Another option for using an insulating element in the masonry process is a three-layer structure. In this case, heat-retaining panels are used. The insulation is attached by using anchors. The fixtures are pre-fixed in the wall. With this technology, a vapor barrier is required to prevent condensation from forming. You can make it from facing brick or use a decorative stone.

It is dangerous to insulate walls in three layers, because such structures are subject to rapid deformation.

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What material is used for house insulation?

Thermal insulation during construction brick structures can be done through different materials... The most commonly used are the following:

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• glass wool.

Sometimes slag is used for external walls, which is poured into the cavity between the walls. Such insulation for brickwork better than those that it improves the strength of the structure. When choosing what to insulate a structure, you need to pay attention to the following qualities:

Polyfoam can be used when it is important not to overload the foundation.

• Resistant to deformation. The thermal insulation product must not change in size or structure due to the influence of weather conditions. It is especially important if the front part will be insulated.
• Moisture resistance. Masonry with insulation inside should be carried out with materials that do not absorb moisture. In this regard, it is better to use fiberglass.
• Do not overload the foundation. The brick-foam-brick technique is especially effective.
• They do not require complex design and installation work. Insulating with expanded polystyrene is simple and quick.

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How to calculate the thickness of insulation for brickwork?

Wall insulation in 2 bricks must be carried out with accurate calculation the amount of materials required. In order to minimize unnecessary costs and make the masonry one and a half bricks warmer, it is necessary to accurately calculate the thickness of the insulation. Each building material that is used for the construction of external walls has its own characteristics. The main requirements on the basis of which the material for insulation is selected are presented in the table:

Penoplex is a material that insulates a house on the same principle as expanded polystyrene.

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Preparatory activities

For work, you can buy penoplex.

Before installing the insulation between the block and the brick, it is necessary to prepare. After purchasing and calculating the material, it is important to collect the following tools and consumables:

• brick;
• masonry mix;
• reinforcement mesh;
• material for thermal insulation (concrete, crushed stone);
• insulation (polystyrene, polystyrene foam);
• plaster for facing with bricks;
• trowel;
• putty knife;
• plumb line;
• building level;
• container for solution;
• anchor.

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Construction stages

Insulated masonry of walls in one brick with finishing with a front fragment - The best way improve the performance of the base material and keep the house warm. The algorithm of actions depends on the chosen construction technology. Layered masonry using an effective insulation involves several stages of work:

1. The three-layer construction starts with laying out the corners.
2. After this, the anchors are fastened.
3. Insulation is installed.
4. A vapor barrier is mounted.
5. Facing brick is laid out.

If it is planned to complete the insulation work after the construction of brick walls, the front material is not laid out. Typically this is the tactic of choice for the less costly foam method. Then Finishing work finished after fixing the material. With the sequential implementation of the stages and the presence quality material it is possible not only to retain heat, but also to improve the characteristics of the strength of the structure.

etokirpichi.ru

Types of masonry walls with insulation inside

There are two types of brick walls, inside which there is a heater. The first method is the so-called lightweight well masonry, consisting of two independent brick walls.

To increase the strength of the structure, they are interconnected by horizontal brick bridges. And the formed hollow wells inside them are filled with heat-insulating material.

The second method involves the construction of a three-layer wall structure. In this case, the brick wall is faced with a tiled heat-insulating material, on top of which the third layer is laid out - facing brick. However, due to the fact that the cases of destruction of buildings erected using this technology have become more frequent, since 2008 its use on the territory of Russia has been prohibited.

Technological reception using a lightweight well type makes it possible not only to increase the thermal inertia of a brick wall, but also to significantly reduce the construction estimate.

When conducting low-rise construction, it will be enough to make a wall partition of 1.5 bricks in order to achieve the required bearing strength. And the heat resistance of the structure is ensured by the insulation of the walls.

Using a combination of brickwork with insulation allows you to achieve:

• significant savings in building materials;
• reducing the load on the foundation;
• lower costs compared to traditional brickwork;
• reducing heat losses by almost half.

The technology of building walls with insulation inside

Well lightweight brickwork is not a new invention. She rather refers to the undeservedly forgotten construction technologies... Due to its efficiency and high energy saving, it has gained quite a lot of popularity lately.

In order to increase the stability of load-bearing walls in this type of construction, hollow wells are constructed in them by the method of filling in bricks from the outer and inner layers of the masonry. Such wells are made in the form of a transverse wall, the thickness of which is ½ brick and with a distance of 2-4 bricks between them. The resulting voids are filled lightweight concrete, slag, expanded clay or other heat-insulating material.

Required tools and materials:

• brick;
• mortar for masonry;
• reinforcement mesh;
• heat-insulating material (expanded clay, concrete, crushed stone, sand);
• polystyrene (optional);
• plaster mix for outdoor decoration;
• trowel;
• plumb line;
• putty knife.

To complete the well masonry, you must:

1. Work should start at the corner of the inner and outer walls.
2. During the process, the angles and locations of the vertical internal partitions are laid out with pokes.
3. Longitudinal walls should be lined with a spoon row.
4. The laying of the transverse walls of the wells is carried out with pokes.
5. The ligation of the transverse wall with the longitudinal one is carried out through a row in height.
6. After 4-5 rows of walls have been laid out, insulation is poured into the well. In this case, you can use such insulating material as sand, crushed stone, expanded clay. It is laid between the walls in layers of 10-15 cm, while ramming well. Every 30-50 cm inside the well, the insulation is watered with a solution. To prevent its subsidence, horizontal bridges are made every 30-60 cm. In some cases, it makes sense to lay the outer and inner walls of the wells with foam plastic panels. This will prevent the insulation from getting wet. For this, foam with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm is suitable.
7. The device of wall brick partitions is completed with solid masonry in three to four rows with mandatory laying in last row reinforcing mesh.

Some types of masonry with outside houses must be plastered. This also applies to the well method. The use of heat-resistant plaster will further strengthen the structure, insulate the building and prevent moisture from entering the heat-insulating material.

1poteply.ru

Thermal insulation and wall cladding technology

The technique of cladding with a brick with insulation is quite complicated and includes several main stages:

Below we will get acquainted with the main nuances of work at each of these stages.

Selection and preparation of materials

Before starting work on wall insulation and its further decoration, it is necessary to decide on the type of insulation. Currently, there are quite a few heat-insulating materials, however, for the sounded purposes, the following heat insulators are most often used:

• mineral mats are an environmentally friendly and durable material that is absolutely fireproof. The disadvantage of mats is high level moisture absorption and relatively high cost. In addition, keep in mind that the fibers of mineral mats getting on the skin, mucous membranes or in the respiratory tract cause irritation, therefore, when working with this material, you must use personal protective equipment;

• expanded polystyrene is a lightweight material that has a much lower level of moisture absorption than mineral wool and at the same time is cheaper. However, keep in mind that expanded polystyrene is less durable, moreover, it supports the combustion process and is toxic in the event of a fire;
• extruded polystyrene foam - is a type of ordinary foam, but it is more durable and durable, as well as zero level moisture absorption, therefore, in terms of performance, it is also excellent for a wall under a facing brick. The disadvantage, in addition to toxicity and fire hazard, is the high cost.

The thickness of insulation for walls made of bricks or other materials depends on the climate in your area. If the temperature in winter often drops below 25 degrees Celsius, a 150 mm thick insulation should be used. If you live in a warmer climate, a 100 mm thick insulation is sufficient.

As you can see, all materials have their own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, everyone must decide for themselves which better insulation use.

In addition to insulation, other materials must be prepared. You will need:

• antiseptic primer for wall treatment (if the walls are wooden, you will need protective impregnation for wood;
• vapor barrier film;
• dowel umbrellas;
• flexible ties (anchors that allow not only to fix the insulation, but also to tie load-bearing wall with facing);

Wall preparation

The next step is to prepare the walls. To do this, you need to do the following with your own hands:

1. start by removing all existing attachments. These can be antennas, all kinds of visors, ebb tides, window sills and other details that will interfere with the insulation and decoration of the facade;
2. if the facade has peeling and crumbling areas, they must be removed... To do this, you can use a chisel and a blade;
3. if the house is wooden, log or squared, it is necessary to insulate the slots between the joints. To do this, you can use tow, polyurethane foam, latex sealant or other suitable thermal insulation;
4. after that, the walls must be treated with a protective deep-penetrating compound or impregnation for wood. Instructions for the use of the formulations are always on the packaging.

If the house is recently built, you can start to insulate and clad it after completion interior decoration, i.e. after the walls are dry. Otherwise, the material of the walls will absorb moisture, which will lead to a number of negative consequences, such as wetting of the insulation, the appearance of mold, etc.

This completes the preparation of the facade.

Wall insulation

The next step is the installation of insulation. I must say that the insulation is often mounted on flexible connections during the construction of the facing wall. However, it is more convenient to first "grab" the plates with dowels, then erect the wall and install flexible connections.

Regardless of what type of insulation you will use for thermal insulation of walls, the instructions for its installation look like this:

1. first of all, you need to waterproof the blind area. To do this, you can miss it. bituminous mastic and then glue the roofing material to it. The latter should overlap about 10 cm, and the joints should also be smeared with bitumen mastic.
   I must say that instead of roofing material, you can use other roll waterproofing materials however, roofing felt is the most budgetary solution;
2. now you need to fix the insulation on the wall. To do this, you should use special dowels, which are popularly called umbrellas or fungi. Installation of insulation should be started from the corner, and performed in rows.

During the installation process, make sure that there are no gaps between the insulation plates, as well as between the insulation and the waterproofed blind area.

To fix the thermal insulation, simply press it against the wall and drill holes for the dowels through the slabs. After that, insert the umbrellas into the holes and drive the expansion nails into them.

To begin with, in order to simply "grab" the thermal insulation, a pair of dowels for one plate is enough;

1. now attach the vapor barrier membrane to the insulation, overlapping it. For fastening the film, also use the dowels and umbrellas.
   If you will be facing the walls with clinker facing bricks, then the vapor barrier can be omitted, since this material has an almost zero moisture absorption coefficient.

People are often interested in forums - is a heater needed between gas silicate and brick? Despite the fact that gas silicate itself has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, additional insulation will make housing even more comfortable and energy-saving.

It should be noted that according to this scheme, insulation is installed only on monolithic, brick and wooden walls. If the walls are made of aerated concrete, the work is carried out a little differently:

1. first of all, you need to mark the location of flexible ties, taking into account the fact that they should be laid in horizontal joints between bricks. Therefore, count the height of the brick from the foundation.
   Anchors should be located in increments of about 50 centimeters, both vertically and horizontally;
2. now you need to drill holes in the diameter and length of the tips (sleeves) of flexible ties;

1. after that it is necessary to screw the tips of the anchors into the holes using a special wrench. In this case, the liners must be completely immersed in aerated concrete;
2. further, insulation should be pinned onto the protruding flexible connections. Install it so that there are no gaps between the plates;
3. after that, on top of the insulation, fix the vapor barrier membrane, which is also pricked onto the anchor;
4. at the end of the work, fix the insulation and the vapor barrier film with clamps that are put on the anchors and snap into place, thus pressing the vapor and thermal insulation against the wall.

Vapor barrier in aerated concrete house it is necessary to install not only between the block and the brick, but also from the inside, i.e. from the side of the room.

After installing the insulation, you can start laying bricks.

The nuances of masonry facing wall

First of all, I note that the cladding wall has a fairly large weight, so it must be erected on a foundation... If the foundation of the house was not originally designed for the construction of a facing wall, an additional shallow strip foundation must be made around the perimeter of the house.

On our portal you can find detailed information on how it is done. The only thing, keep in mind that there should be a space of several centimeters between the insulation and the facing wall.

Before laying bricks, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation. To do this, lay several layers of roofing material on top of it. Further work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. work begins with laying the first row. In this case, beacons and a building level are necessarily used, which ensures an even arrangement of the row;
2. if flexible connections were not installed in advance, a hole is drilled in the wall above the first row of bricks to the required depth and an anchor is driven into it. After that, a limiter is put on the anchor, which additionally holds the thermal insulation;

1. the end of the flexible connection is laid between the bricks to a depth of about 10 cm... To do this, a solution is placed directly on it;
2. in the second row, airflows are performed. To do this, leave a vertical seam unfilled with mortar every two bricks;

1. according to this principle, the entire facing wall is erected, taking into account the fact that flexible ties should be located with a step of 50 cm vertically and horizontally. In addition, they are installed along the perimeter of window and door openings;
2. in the top row of bricks, i.e. under the overhangs, air vents are carried out according to the scheme described above. This is necessary to ensure ventilation of the space between the wall and the insulation.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how walls are insulated under facing bricks. The only thing, finally, I note that the process of facing itself is quite complicated, requiring high qualifications from a bricklayer, so it is better to entrust this stage of work to specialists. True, the price of this service is also not small - on average, it starts from 800 rubles per square meter.

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Features of brick walls

In modern realities, a wall made of ceramic hollow brick 60 cm does not keep warm enough. Only the increased masonry, which creates an additional load on the foundation, or the use of insulation create the conditions for the fulfillment of modern building codes and help to improve the operational characteristics of the building.

According to Russian building codes, for the Moscow region, the required wall thickness of ceramic hollow bricks should be one and a half meters. Applying 10 cm of expanded polystyrene on the outside, we get 35 cm thick masonry that meets the requirements.

Walls are either hollow or solid brick... When laying, various solutions are used. And the structure of the masonry can be either solid or with an air pocket (well). Hence - different requirements for wall thickness and insulation. Thermal insulation of brick walls requires calculation of the thermal insulation layer in terms of thickness and method of placement, taking into account all factors.

How to properly insulate brick house? For solid masonry - it is recommended to insulate from the street side. The thickness and type of thermal insulation depends on the characteristics of the building envelope, climatic zone and the required thermal resistance of the wall cake. If the masonry is well, insulation can be done inside, between bricks or external insulation. The presence of heat-insulating material in the interlayer reduces the heat loss of the building, but there is a risk of moisture accumulation.

The material for insulation and the thickness is selected based on the dew point and taking into account the vapor permeability of the layers finished structure walls.

Algorithm of actions for warming a brick house

Instructions for insulating a brick structure are as follows:

1. Choose the appropriate insulation available in your area.
2. Pick up finishing material with which you want to cover the thermal insulation.
3. Choose facade system where the previously selected insulation and decoration is applied.
4. Determine the required value of the heat transfer resistance of the building envelope in your area. To do this, you need to know the number of degree days in your area. For example, for Moscow, the thermal resistance coefficient of a wall is at least 3.2 m2 × ° C / W.
5. Next, use a calculator for calculating insulation (for example, smartcalc.ru), where you enter the layers of the future wall. By the way, the calculator for many regions already contains data on the required thermal resistance coefficient and degree-day, you just need to select the city of construction.
6. If the wall is not warm enough according to the calculator, then either we increase the thickness of the insulation, or replace it with another one with a better thermal conductivity. If the building is just being erected, then it can be replaced masonry mortar to warm, which will also give an increase in thermal resistance.
7. When the wall turns out to be warm according to the calculator, that is, not less than the required thermal resistance coefficient, then a check is made for the vapor permeability of the layers.
8. If the vapor permeability of the layers meets the requirement of increasing the vapor permeability of the layers from the room to the street side, then get to work.

For an example of a brick wall with insulation outside, see the end of the article.

Insulation suitable for a brick house

When choosing the best way to insulate, you need to consider the characteristics of each material. Thermal conductivity determines desired thickness layer. Also important are durability, performance, naturalness. Some of the materials can insulate a brick house from the outside, while others are used inside. The following popular types are used.

Spray-on (polyurethane foam, ecowool).

• Polyurethane foam is originally a liquid component that is applied to a vertical surface, producing maximum thermal insulation. Before insulating a brick house from the outside, a frame is built into which it is poured and finished with cladding. And also the cavities in the walls are filled with polyurethane foam.
• Ecowool (cellulose wool) is a product of recycled paper raw materials. Being harmless to humans, resistant to microbes and fungi, not flammable, impregnated with flame retardants (substances that prevent fire).

Plate heaters

Stone wool, foamed polystyrene foam, plate glass, are also insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. Fiber basalt slabs are fire resistant insulation that reduces heating costs.

Foam glass - insulation with a cellular structure. It is produced in the form of slabs and blocks. And also does not burn, is environmentally friendly, is not affected by fungi, bacteria. Learn more about this material by reading our article.

Insulation of a brick house with foam is a reduced thermal conductivity of the walls, easy installation and relatively low cost. Disadvantages - flammability with the release of harmful substances, fragility.

House insulation with penoplex - effective heat preservation, strength, resistance to moisture penetration inside. Extruded polystyrene foam (which is also foam) insulates buildings, increasing the thermal resistance. The material does not crumble and is resistant to biological contamination. Most often used in the area of ​​the base.

Roll (glass wool, linen insulation).

Insulating a house with glass wool is inexpensive and easy, it perfectly insulates. For wall mounting, a crate is made, then cotton wool is installed. The cotton-lined house is covered with a windproof material and then a finishing material.

Linen insulation (mats) usually does not contain artificial additives, is processed with fire-fighting agents, environmentally friendly and safe.

Filling and filling (penoizol, expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite).

Expanded clay is a material with a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.10 - 0.18 W / (m · K), applicable for in-wall insulation. The walls are erected to a certain height with a gap between them, where expanded clay is poured, after which construction continues. Perlite (volcanic rock) and vermiculite (a mineral with a layered structure) are used in a similar way. Penoizol is a type of polystyrene that is liquid injected into the cavity of structures.

Building decoration

Having chosen a heater, you need to consider the possibility of using one or another finish, behind which it will be hidden. Finish options are as follows:

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In some newly built buildings, the insulation is placed centrally (in the middle) in the building envelope. With this option, the insulation is very well protected from mechanical damage and there are more possibilities for decorating facades. However, the risk of damage due to moisture is much higher than with external insulation, therefore the layer structure must be carefully planned and executed without defects.

This construction consists of three layers: load-bearing wall, walls made of facing material and insulation which is located between them. The load-bearing and cladding walls are supported on the same foundation. The outer layer is most often made either from facing bricks, or from building bricks, followed by plastering, coating artificial stone, clinker tiles, etc.

Advantages

• handsome and respectable appearance when using expensive facing materials;
• high durability provided correct design and qualified installation of the structure.

Flaws

• high labor intensity of construction;
• low air permeability;
• the possibility of moisture condensation between dissimilar layers of such a wall.

It is very important that all layers of the structure are combined with each other in terms of vapor permeability. Compatibility is determined only by calculating the system as a whole.

Underestimating this circumstance can lead to moisture accumulation in the interior of the walls. This will create a favorable environment for mold and mildew to grow. The insulation from the possible formation of condensation will get wet, which will shorten the service life of the material and significantly reduce its heat-shielding properties. The enclosing structure will freeze through, which will lead to ineffectiveness of insulation and may cause its premature destruction.

Types of structures

Typical solutions for layered masonry can be divided into two types: with and without air gap device.

The device of the air gap makes it possible to more effectively remove moisture from the structure, since excess moisture from the load-bearing wall and insulation will immediately go into the atmosphere. In this case, the air gap increases the overall thickness of the walls, and, consequently, the foundation.

Insulation inside the masonry walls

To one degree or another, the problem of steam transfer is relevant for layered masonry with any type of insulation.

Thermal insulation of the structure with mineral wool is the most preferable... In this case, it becomes possible to arrange an air gap between the insulation and the outer wall for better moisture removal from the load-bearing wall and the insulation.

For layered masonry, use semi-rigid mineral wool slab insulation... This will make it possible, on the one hand, to fill in all defects in the masonry well, to create a continuous layer of thermal insulation (the slabs can be "squeezed" a little, avoiding cracks). On the other hand, such slabs will maintain geometric integrity (not shrink) throughout their entire service life.

Certain difficulties in the use of expanded polystyrene in layered masonry caused by the low vapor permeability of this material.

Three-layer brickwork with insulation

1. The inside of a brick wall
2. Mineral wool
3. Outside of a brick wall
4. Connections

The traditional material for the interior of the walls is solid red ceramic bricks. Masonry is usually carried out on a cement-sand mortar of 1.5-2 bricks (380-510 mm). The outer wall is usually made of facing bricks with a thickness of 120 mm (half a brick).

Perfume

In the case of a system device with an air gap of 2-5 cm wide, for ventilation, air vents (holes) are arranged in the lower and upper parts of the wall through which vaporous moisture is removed to the outside. The size of such holes is taken at the rate of 75 cm 2 per 20 m 2 of the wall surface.

The upper ventilation ducts are located at the cornices, the lower ones at the plinths. In this case, the lower holes are intended not only for ventilation, but also for water drainage.

1. Air gap 2 cm
2. Lower part of the building
3. Top of the building

For ventilation of the layer in the lower part of the walls, a slotted brick is installed, placed on the edge, or in the lower part of the walls, bricks are laid not close to each other, and not at some distance from each other, and the resulting gap is not filled with masonry mortar.

Establishing links

The inner and outer parts of a three-layer brick wall are connected with each other by special embedded parts - ties. They are made of fiberglass, basalt or steel reinforcement with a diameter of 4.5–6 mm. It is preferable to use fiberglass or basalt-reinforced plastic ties due to the higher thermal conductivity of steel ties.

These connections also perform the function of fastening the insulation plates (the insulation is simply
prick on them). They are installed during the masonry process into the load-bearing wall to a depth
6-9 cm in increments of 60 cm horizontally and 50 cm vertically based on an average of 4 pins per
1 m 2.

To ensure a uniform ventilated gap over the entire area of ​​the insulation, fixing washers are attached to the rods.

Often, instead of special ties, bent reinforcing bars are used. In addition to connections, external and inner wall masonry can be tied with steel mesh, laid vertically after 60 cm. In this case, for the device of the air gap, an additional mechanical fastening slabs.

Insulation plates are installed with bandaging of seams close to each other so that there are no gaps and gaps between the individual plates. At the corners of the building, slabs are toothed to avoid cold bridges.

Insulated masonry technology

• Laying the facing layer up to the level of the ties
• Installation of a heat-insulating layer so that its top is 5-10 cm higher than the facing layer
• Structural masonry up to the next link level
• Installation of connections, piercing them through the insulation

if the horizontal seams of the bearing and facing layers of the wall, in which the ties are placed, do not coincide by more than 2 cm in the bearing layer of the brickwork, the ties are placed in the vertical seam

• Laying one row of bricks in the load-bearing part of the wall and in the facing layer

Installation sequence
(Alternative option)