Drain in a brick bath. How to make a drain in the bath with your own hands - device, preparation and manufacturing technology. Well with a filter at the bottom

Today, baths are built not only in villages, but also in dachas, in cottage villages. However, before starting construction, it is necessary to determine how to drain the water from the bath. From time immemorial, the drain was carried out directly under the building, where it went into the ground. But then there was no such population density and special unsanitary standards, which today are not only stupid, but also unsafe to ignore.

In order to avoid unnecessary difficulties with swamping your site or disputes with sanitary and epidemiological supervision, we will consider how water will be drained from it, at the lowest cost and maximum comfort for others.

Water drainage methods

So how can you organize a device for draining water from a bath?

The following options can be considered the most popular and widely used:

draining water directly under the bath;
discharge to the general sewerage;
arrangement on;
uniform distribution of water over the site with the help of drainage pipes.

Advice. You need to ask yourself how to drain water in a bathhouse at the planning stage, and if you decide to remove moisture outside the building (into a septic tank, into a sewer), then this must be taken into account when laying the foundation.
Sleeves are laid in the tape base, through which the outlet pipes will pass.

Drain under the foundation

The method with a drain pit is used if you do not visit the steam room very often and in an amount of no more than 1-3 people. In this case, directly under the floor of the used water.

For better absorption, the walls are not lined with solid masonry, but in a checkerboard pattern, which will allow moisture to escape not only through the bottom of the pit, but also to the sides. Unfortunately, this method has a significant drawback: in winter, water can freeze and damage the foundation.

Use of the central sewer

If there is an opportunity to insert a pipe into a centralized sewer on or near the site, this option is most preferable. You only need to bring or connect to a sewer pipe, and the question of how to organize water drainage will never bother you again.

But if there is no sewer pipe near your site, you will have to solve this problem yourself, fortunately, it is not difficult to do it yourself even alone.

Septic tank and filtration

This system for draining water in a bath and its purification is deservedly considered the most expensive, but at the same time it allows not only to efficiently organize the drain of water in a bath, but also to use this water for agricultural purposes.

To do this, you need to equip septic tanks in which water is purified, and then it enters the collector through a pipe, from where it is used for irrigation. But the disadvantage of such a system is its price, which includes the regular replacement of filters and the addition of microorganisms that take over the purification process.

drain hole

This is the most used method for draining not only used water, but also sewage from a private house. Making it is not at all difficult and the following instruction will tell you how to do it correctly.

Choosing a place and arranging a pit

According to the rules and regulations for the location of the cesspool, it should be no closer than 12 meters from the dwelling. This rule should be taken as a basis for organizing the removal of moisture from the washing room. When choosing the type of pit, you must consider whether you will regularly clean it, or provide for the absorption of moisture into the soil. The second option is preferable in view of the fact that it requires less costs not only during construction, but also during operation..

However, you should take into account that a pit without a bottom can only be built if there is no surface groundwater and if no more than 1 cubic meter of water is drained per day.

Otherwise, the bottom and walls of the cesspool must be completely isolated from the ground. This is achieved by laying out the walls with bricks and concreting the bottom of the pit.

Since the concepts of a bath and draining water are inseparable, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the future waste bin.

The most optimal sizes are:

length not less than 1.5 m and not more than 3 m;
width from 2m to 3m;
depth from 1.5m to 3m.

Such dimensions will provide you with a sufficient volume of construction for the smooth functioning of your bath, even with frequent visits.

Operating procedure

You need to start by digging a pit. This can be done manually, but if there is an opportunity to attract an excavator, be sure to use it.

Tip: Earthwork is the hardest type of work, and you will soon begin to understand this, having decided to take up the shovel yourself.
With the help of an excavator, for a small fee, in half an hour you will have a pit of the required volume on your site.

The walls and bottom of the pit must be leveled. This can be done manually by cutting with a bayonet shovel. Such work does not require a lot of effort and time.
Backfill the bottom of the pit with gravel mixed with sand, this will slightly improve moisture absorption and prevent clay and earth from penetrating into the pit.
Now you can start laying out the walls with bricks. Masonry is done in a checkerboard pattern, from the bottom to the very top.

The last step is a concrete floor, with a hole with a diameter of 30-50 cm for cleaning and an intake sleeve.
Now you just have to bring the sewer pipes through which the outflow of water from the bath will be carried out.

Brick for facing the pit is suitable only for clay and well-burnt, it is not recommended to use silicate or pressed briquettes of unknown composition.

Conclusion

The choice of technology that will ensure the draining of water in the bath depends not only on your financial capabilities, but also on how often and how many people will use the washing room at the same time. The video in this article will also help you.

Bath is a place often in contact with water. Moreover, this happens both outside and inside. AND it is not enough to protect wooden walls with a waterproof coating- it is necessary to organize a high-quality drain in order to avoid frequent repairs of the foundation, damage to the bath by a pathogenic fungus and rotting of wood.

Water is drained from the wash room directly to the drain tank or to a place reserved for draining. The options for organizing a water intake system can differ quite a lot depending on the conditions in which the bathhouse was built and on the type of drain.

First you need to know the answers to several important questions regarding the conditions for the construction of a branch:

Where will the drain be located and how much area should be allocated for it?
What type of soil is on your site where the bath will be located?
Is it possible to connect to the central sewer?
What budget are you looking for?
Will you build the drain yourself or will you use hired labor?

From the correct organization of drain communications depends on the longevity of the building and the quality of the bath procedures themselves. Even if the volume of drains is small, you should not rely on the soil to absorb all the liquid: the remaining water will still spoil the foundation and the soil itself, which may cause the structure to shrink. The only case when a drain may not be necessary is if the bath itself is used no more than once a month by a small number of people (2-3 people). Here you can use the so-called leaky floor, with widely laid boards. In all other cases, this is the first thing to plan after laying the foundation. Therefore, it is very useful to know the various ways to organize a drain for a bath, even if you do not do it yourself, but order it from a construction company.

Autonomous sewerage with a settling well

The first and most time-consuming method is a filtering settling well based on an autonomous sewer. Here the system consists of two tanks, preferably made of plastic. The first tank filters the effluents from coarse particles with a simple mesh filter, equipped in the tank. The second tank conducts the second stage of wastewater treatment before sending them to the sewage pit. But for any variant of drainage with sewerage, a special design of the floor in the bath is necessary.

The whole point of such a floor is to tilt towards the center of the room at the initial stage of construction. A fitting is mounted in the center of the floor, which is closely adjacent to the connector in the floor, tightly treated with sealant around the installation site. The fitting funnel is selected within 5 cm, with slight deviations. Sewage pipes from all rooms, if several, are connected by a splitter. But it's worth knowing that the construction of a cesspool is advisable only in the case of deep groundwater, not less than 4-5 m deep. Otherwise, your pit will be flooded all year round and the smell of putrefactive bacteria from it will haunt you until each subsequent cleaning. If the conditions for the waste pit are favorable, then the second point in calculating the flow will be to determine the volume of the pit according to several criteria: the number of people in the bath, the frequency of use and the cost of water.

Further, when the drain project is ready, the location of the pit is calculated: it should be no further than 2 meters from the bath. If you place the drain too close, then there will be a chance of water penetrating into the foundation. If it is too far, then it will not be possible to make a sufficient slope for the water to drain naturally.

When laying the foundation, you most likely already familiarized yourself with the type of soil on the site and its properties. When creating a drain hole it is important to understand the physical properties of the earth, since taking this into account, accompanying measures will be selected to strengthen the frame of the pit. However, if the soil is not loose and does not crumble, then nothing will have to be strengthened. But excessively dense clay soil also has a drawback in the case of arranging a drain - it does not absorb well. Sometimes on the plots there is a successful combination of fairly dense soil with good absorbent properties. Then work with the pit will be limited to the fact that it will simply need to be dug and filtered according to one of the methods described. But such conditions are very rare. Most often, the soil crumbles and you have to resort to strengthening the boundaries of the pit. For reinforcement, brickwork is often used with gaps to absorb water, or wild stone (any waterproof material). The easiest option is to use a large plastic tank with many holes as the inner frame of the pit.

It is also important to choose the optimal size for the openings in the tank. The optimal shape for the tank in this case is a streamlined cylindrical one, since it holds the pressure created by water in the best way. It is also necessary to provide the pit with a heavy overlap of iron or steel.

When the tank is ready, filtration material (broken or) is poured into the bottom of the pit, and then covered with a layer. The sewer pipes, previously connected under the floor of the bath into one, are discharged at a slope to the pit. Moreover, the optimal slope required for rapid runoff varies within 1 cm per 1 meter of the pipeline.

Arrangement of a simple drain pit

This method of organizing runoff is simpler than the first one due to the exclusion of several stages of filtration. It implies all stages with the organization of flow in the bath itself and digging a hole, but in this case only a septic tank without filters will be used. The method is used if there is no desire to bother with replacing the filtration material and it is possible to use a sewage machine for pumping out wastewater.

But in this case, you should consider the entrance to the pit at a distance of reach by the sleeve of the machine. The second way to clean a simplified pit system is the use of special bacteria to process decaying residues in a septic tank. Its efficiency, of course, is several times lower than the complete removal of waste or natural filtration, but it also has a place to be.

Ground filtration method

In this method, the main one is the organization through which the liquid will be brought to the sewer. The system will be distributed over the entire area of the site so that the water has time to pass through several stages of filtration before draining.

Filtration is carried out according to the principle of drainage: at the first stage, a grate is installed on the pipe (in the initial section) to catch large waste. Then, in the future, the water goes through a section of pipes covered with large filtering material. The last stage is a fine filter, that is, coarse sand.

Thus, the water from the drains will be filtered throughout the site at the same time creating an additional source of irrigation I am. This method is only suitable in case of low groundwater, since the location of the pipes should be more than 0.5 meters above the water level.

Drain pipe method

In general, this method is similar to the previous ones and differs only in the type of materials and slight differences in the design of the septic tank. Here the longer length of the pipe is important. At the same time, it is important to install the pipe itself at the stage of pouring the foundation with a slope towards the area for the construction of a sump.

The sump is made on the basis that make up the walls of the pit. The bottom, in turn, should not be blocked by anything for better absorption of waste. The pipe is laid without corners and bends, and the maximum diameter of the pipe is taken among sewer pipes for domestic wastewater. When installing a pipe, it is important to insulate it, since when the soil freezes and deforms the plastic, at best.

Drainage material (crushed stone, broken brick, or slag from coal combustion) is placed at the bottom of the trench, covered with a small layer of sand. After that, a drain pipe is laid at the bottom, taken away from the bath. The pit will be designed for a small amount of waste, not more than 100 liters. Therefore, you should think carefully before choosing this option.

In the event that there is at least some possibility to connect your drainage system to the central sewerage system, then this is the most optimal and most effective option for organizing wastewater. If the site is located in an unsuitable area for this, then you will have to carefully study the features of the soil, the slope of the site, internal communications, the presence and level of groundwater, correctly calculate materials and energy costs. Often the owners of the bath are faced with a choice, a septic tank or a well? Both options have their pros and cons. For the arrangement of the well, for example, it will take more time than for the installation of a septic tank. But the right well provides the best water filtration and practically does not allow the appearance of unpleasant odors. A septic tank is more suitable for frequent use of the bath, as it provides faster absorption of water. In financial terms, the organization of a septic tank and a well are almost the same.

The gutter, which was described in the last, fifth method, is permissible only in the case of a small volume of water and the absence of cultivated plants on the site. Otherwise, they will simply be poisoned by detergents coming from the drains, although the water will be filtered to some extent. However, this is the cheapest and fastest option for organizing a drain.

In general, despite the seeming ease in the task of organizing the drain, it is not so easy to calculate all communications correctly. Therefore, if you do not have experience in construction, it is better to hire a team of builders - today this service is not too expensive.

Many owners of private houses want to have a good Russian bathhouse on their site. But before proceeding with its construction, it is necessary to carefully consider and competently organize the drainage system. Currently, there are several ways to remove waste water from a bath that do not require large financial investments and supply to the general city sewer system. A well-made drain in the washing bath will help ensure the long life of the floors and foundation, as well as prevent the appearance of mold and fungi on the walls.

Drainage device in the washing room at the bath

Drainage in the bath can be carried out in various ways, which depend on the type of floors in the washing room of the bath. There are wooden leaking and non-leaking, as well as concrete. For the first case, it is necessary to arrange a special reservoir for the flow of water, from which it will be poured into the sewer. And for the second option, the floor is laid in the bath with a slope, and special gutters and ladders for the drain are mounted. Any drainage system in the bath should be arranged before laying the floors.

When choosing the creation of an external sewage bath, it is necessary to take into account factors such as:

The intensity of the operation of the bath;
building dimensions;
Soil type and depth of its freezing;
Sewer system (its presence or absence);
Is it possible to connect to the central system.

The above aspects are among the most important in determining the drainage.

For a small bathhouse, where one or two people will bathe several times a month, you should not make a complicated sewer. It will be enough to dig an ordinary drain hole or a small pit under the bath.

The type of soil is of great importance when creating a drainage system. For sandy soils that absorb water well, it is recommended to make a drainage well. In clay soils, it is better to equip a drain pit, from which drains will need to be periodically pumped out. It is also necessary to take into account the degree of freezing of the earth, since the water in the pipes that will be laid above the required mark will simply freeze and the plastic will crack.

If you do not want the water from the bath to simply flow out and soak into the ground, you must use a septic tank with a sump, where the drains will settle and be cleaned, and then distributed through irrigation pipes. The most complex and expensive way to remove water is to build a well with biological filters, which consist of slag, broken bricks and rubble. The peculiarity of this method is that when waste water enters the well, its walls are gradually covered with a layer of silt, in which microorganisms that purify water live.

Advantages and disadvantages of each external drainage system in the bath

Consider the different types of drainage, as well as their characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

This is a sealed pit made of reinforced concrete, in which water from the bath accumulates. When it is full, it is pumped out using a special device.

Advantages:

The simplicity of the device;
Does not require maintenance;
Low cost.

Flaws:

Drainage well

Such a water drainage system is a pit with a filtrate that purifies wastewater. The filter can be sand, broken brick, crushed stone, slag, etc.

Advantages:

Low cost;
Ease of construction.

The disadvantage of the system is the regular replacement of the filtrate or its cleaning. And this procedure requires a lot of physical effort.

Pit

Such a system consists of a hole that is dug immediately under the floor of the washing room. At the bottom of the pit there is a natural filtrate, which passes through itself wastewater, which gradually drains into the depths of the soil.

Advantages:

There is no need to run a pipeline;
Low cost device.

Flaw:

This is a system that consists of a septic tank and pipes emanating from it, which remove water purified from impurities. Drainage systems are installed at a certain slope so that the water quickly leaves and is completely absorbed into the ground.

Advantages:

Works offline;
It can be used to create a sewerage system with several points for receiving waste water;
It can even clean "black" drains if an anaerobic septic tank is installed.

Flaws:

Alternatively, you can connect to the central sewer. Then there will be no need to arrange external facilities for the reception and processing of waste effluents. But here you have to pay for the services of specialists and draw up various permits.

The internal drainage system of the bath

The washing room inside the bath is equipped taking into account the future drain and the selected floors. Drainage must be carried out in such a way that moisture does not remain in the room, which will contribute to the development of fungi and mold.

Leaking wooden floors are the most widely used, as they are the simplest option for draining a bath. The boards are laid with gaps of about 3-4 mm, so that through the cracks the water from the washing room goes into the pit unhindered. Such floors are collapsible so that high-quality drying of the boards can be carried out. In this case, the floor is arranged without a slope for draining, since water will soak into the ground under the bath.
Non-leaking floors are arranged with an angle of inclination to the drain, through which the waste water will flow into the water collector, and then into the sewer. Also, water can drain into any selected drainage system.
Concrete floors are easy to care for, durable and reliable, so they are perfect for arranging a washing room in a bath. Such floors are also made with a slope towards the drain, so that water can quickly and freely go into the selected sewer system.

Preparation for the construction of a drainage system: drawings and diagrams of various drains

Scheme of the device of a wooden leaking floor with a drain. Must be done before laying floors.

If a dry steam room is provided in the bath, and there is a shower in the washing room, then it is necessary to provide for a drain in the steam room.

In the sewerage of the bath, where water will be collected from several rooms, it is imperative to install a riser with a ventilation valve.

If the steam room and the washing room are in different rooms, then the gutter for draining water is laid under the ceiling between them.

Under the wooden floor, it is necessary to make a concrete base with a slope to the central part, where the gutter will go, joining the sewer.

Also, instead of concrete, you can lay a pallet made of stainless or galvanized steel on the floor under the flooring.

Video: device for a galvanized pan for draining water under the wooden floor of the bath

When installing self-leveling floors on which tiles will be laid, it is necessary to observe the slope, where a ladder is installed at the lowest point to receive water, which is connected to the sewer.

For the installation of a sewer system inside the bath, it is necessary to use modern, durable plastic pipes that have a long service life, and therefore will serve for many years. They are not afraid of moisture, are not subject to corrosion, like ordinary metal or cast iron ones, and are also easily and simply assembled on their own without the involvement of specialists. PVC pipes are excellent for internal sewerage in a bath, they are malleable in any processing, and can also be with or without a socket. Service life more than 50 years.
Cast iron pipes are too expensive, heavy, and also inconvenient to work with.
Asbestos-cement pipes are the cheapest, but they often have many defects. Also, for the installation of a non-pressure drain, pipes with a smooth inner surface of the walls are required, and asbestos cement products often have rough inner walls with recesses.

Types of plastic pipes:

PVC pipes (polyvinyl chloride);
PVCH (pipes made of chlorinated polyvinyl chloride);
PP (polypropylene products);
HDPE (pipes made of low pressure polyethylene);
Corrugated polyethylene pipes.

Any of the above types of pipes can be used for an internal drain in a bath. The diameter of the product for the main line is taken based on the future intensity of operation of the bath and the number of drain points. For an ordinary bath with a steam room, a washing room and a toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10–11 cm are recommended. If plumbing is not installed, then pipes with a diameter of 5 cm will be enough to drain water.

Calculation of material for creating a drainage system and tools

For the installation of internal sewerage in the washing room, we will need gray PVC pipes, as well as joints and adapters.

The number of pipes depends on the length of the internal drain system.
We will also need tees with a size and an angle of 110–110–90 ° - two pieces (highlighted in red in the diagram);
Elbow adapter - 90° - three pieces (highlighted in black in the diagram).
Horizontal sewer pipes - Ø11 cm;
Vertical pipes for the device of water drain receivers - Ø11 or 5 cm.
To connect pipes of different diameters, you will need adapters from 5 to 11 cm.
For the external sewerage of the bath, you will need orange pipes (PVC).

For work we need:

Spade bayonet (special equipment);
Building level;
Bulgarian with a cutting wheel;
Sand;
Cement;
Rubble.

Step-by-step instructions with a photo for the manufacture of various drain designs in the bath

Before considering the drain system in the washing room, it must be said that the entire sewer internal system in the bath is interconnected and consists of three waste water receivers.

The trapik for the drain is a siphon that has a water seal that does not let unpleasant odors into the washing room, and it also serves as a grate that does not let large debris into the sewer.

In the photo we can see the slope of the tiled floor to the drain for the drain.

A drain drain must be installed in the bath rooms.

Video: trapika functioning system with a water seal in the washing room of the bath

First, we will lay the sewer pipes. To do this, we dig trenches.
At points A and B, the depth of the trench should be approximately 50-60 centimeters in relation to the ground level (outside the foundation). If the height of the base is 30-40 centimeters, then the depth of the trench will be 80-100 cm in relation to the top of the foundation.
From points A and B, we gradually dig ditches so that the slope is about 2 centimeters per 1 linear meter. We pour sand about 5-10 cm thick at the bottom of the trench and tamp it well, observing the necessary slope.
We fill the foundation and make a hole for the sewer pipe.
Drain pipes are installed vertically (1 and 2 for traps). To do this, we drive sticks about 1 meter long into the bottom of the trench, and then we tie plums to them. We install vertical pipes, making a small margin of length. In the process of installing the floor and installing the ladders, we will shorten them.
We install the sewerage system according to the specified scheme.

In the construction industry, the depth of laying sewer pipes in the southern regions is about 70 cm from the ground surface. In the middle lane, the depth varies from 90 to 120 cm, and in the north it is at least 150–180 cm.

In order for the drains not to freeze, the tubes must be insulated with several layers of special 10 mm polyethylene foam.

Under one end of the pipe we dig a shallow hole for a drain. Now we need to try to drain a certain amount of water in order to check the correctness of the slope of the pipe. We check all the pipes one by one.

We make an external sewerage system with our own hands

If the volume of waste water does not exceed 700 liters. per week, then we can use old truck wheels as a septic tank. We can calculate the water absorption area of a septic tank, given that the degree of water absorption of 1 sq / m of sandy soil is about 100 l / day, mixed sandy loam about 50 l / day, loamy soil about 20 l / day. Depending on the type of soil and its water absorption, we calculate how many wheels we need.

We dig a hole 2x2 meters and a depth of about 2.3 - 2.5 meters, depending on the level at which the pipe will exit. We fill the bottom with sand 10–15 cm, and rubble on top - 10–15 cm.
In the pit, we tightly stack the wheels vertically on top of each other about 5-7 pieces. The top point should turn out so that the drain pipe can definitely enter it.
In loamy soil, it will be enough to install 7 wheels. If the site has sandy or sandy soil, then 5 pieces are enough.
We cover the wheels with a metal or plastic durable cover with a hole made in it. We insert a ventilation pipe into it, through which air will flow, ensuring the vital activity of microorganisms that process wastewater.
We carry out a test drain and bury the entire structure.

How to make a drain well for drainage: a guide

The drain pit can be made of a plastic or metal tank, reinforced concrete rings or red brick.

We choose a place in the lowest place of the site so that the water from the washing room leaves by gravity. In order to make it convenient to pump water out of the well and the car could drive up to it freely, you need to choose a place with a convenient entrance.
Digging a hole with an excavator. If there is no equipment, then you will have to dig manually, and this is a lengthy process. We monitor the condition of the walls of the pit (they should not crumble). We can dig a hole in a square, rectangular or round shape.
We make the bottom with a slight slope to the hatch for easy cleaning of the tank. We fill up the sand 15 cm and concrete the bottom. Instead of concreting, you can simply lay a reinforced concrete slab of the desired shape and size.
We lay out the brick walls. You can take a used red brick. For masonry, we make a solution of clay and sand. In one of the walls during the masonry process, we install an inlet pipe for water.
Since brick walls are waterproof, we need to treat them with a special sealant. To do this, take bituminous mastic or other similar material.
We mount the ceiling of reinforced concrete slab. The upper part of the well should be blocked on all sides by about 30 cm. To pump out water, we make a hole above the pit section where the slope is located. Overlapping is arranged in several steps. First, we make formwork from boards and pour a concrete layer of 5–7 cm. We put reinforcement on top and pour the next layer of mortar. Let the concrete dry for a few days.
We put a metal hatch, and cover the concrete floor with polyethylene and fill it with soil, so that only the hatch is visible on the surface.

How to place a drainage system with a pit

Under the floor of the washing room we dig a hole 2x2 meters and a depth of at least 1 meter. At a height of 10–15 centimeters from the floor level, we install a pipe that will connect the pit to the external sewerage system. We observe a slope of 1 centimeter per 1 linear meter.
At the bottom we put a layer of gravel, broken brick, gravel or expanded clay, and pour a layer of sand on top. We strengthen the walls with brick, large-wave slate or natural stone.
On top of the pit, we lay logs, and we already mount a wooden floor on them.
So that the waste water can easily go straight into the pit, the boards are laid at a distance from each other. Such a wooden floor can not be attached to the logs so that it can be easily removed and dried.

The second version of the pit device is a water collector, from which effluents will be poured into a septic tank or sewer when a certain mark is reached. Basically, this method of drainage is used when arranging leaking floors.

How to install a ground filter for a bath

For the device of such a system, a separate septic tank will be required, which will serve as a sump and distribution well. Drainage pipes will depart from it in different directions, designed to distribute treated effluents around the entire perimeter of the yard. You can buy a septic tank, or you can make it yourself from large plastic or metal containers.

A reinforced concrete septic tank or a round brickwork structure functions perfectly.

Drainage system rules:

The length of the pipe should be no more than 25 meters;
Laying depth of at least 1.5 meters;
The distance between the pipes is not less than 1.5 meters;
The width of the trench for drainage is at least 50 cm, maximum 1 meter.

We dig a trench, taking into account the angle of inclination of about 1.5 °. We check the angle with the usual building level.
We pour 10 cm of sand at the bottom of the clay soil trench and 10 cm of gravel on top. In loamy soils, the pipe will need to be wrapped with filter material to prevent silting. On sandy soil we make a sand and crushed stone pillow, and we wrap the pipes with geotextiles.
Pour 10 cm gravel on top of the drainage, and then fill the ditch with earth.
The filtration system must be ventilated, so at the end of the drainage pipe we install a pipe about 50 cm high, and put a safety valve on top.

Video: how to bring the drain system to the bath

Properly made drain in the washing room of the bath and its other premises guarantees a long service life of this facility. It will help protect the building from the harmful effects of moisture and prevent pollution of the territory by waste water. Even in small baths, it is necessary to equip a drainage system, so this process must be approached with full seriousness and responsibility.

A well-planned bath project not only increases the operational life of the building, but also protects it from the appearance of mold and pathogens, and also increases the heat transfer of the heating installation. The main requirement of the bath is a thorough draining of wastewater.

A properly designed structure using concrete and boards will eliminate odors and reduce the growth of pathogens.

How to make a drain in the bath with your own hands? You will find the answer to this question in our material.

How is the sewerage system arranged?

The correct outflow of wastewater in the bath can be done in several ways:

flowing;
not flowing.

In the first case, it is collected in a special department, where the waste liquid flows into the sewer pipes. In the second option, during the construction of the building, a certain angle of inclination is made with additional gutters to drain dirty water.

A detailed diagram helps to avoid common mistakes in self-construction. It includes:

Trench preparation for pipe laying. The depth of the grooves must not exceed 0.5 m. During the laying process, the correct angle of inclination must be observed. To do this, each subsequent pipe is fixed 3 cm above the previous one.

The bottom of the trench is sprinkled with sand. The height of such a substrate should be 16 cm after tight tamping. In the process of laying, it is important to observe the angle of inclination.

Further, all the pipes are interconnected and laid on the bottom of the pits. If there is a bathroom in the bath, then it is necessary to install an additional sewer riser. To do this, it is fixed at the wall surface with a special fixative.

For proper circulation of air masses in the toilet, it is necessary to install additional ventilation. This will reduce the lingering of unpleasant odors indoors.

After that, proceed to laying the flooring. In the process of installing the sewer, it is necessary to attach additional metal gratings. They will prevent large debris from entering the drain hole.

To eliminate an unpleasant smell, special water seals will help. They are rubber pads that are fixed in the area of \u200b\u200bthe drain hole.

The main parameters for choosing a sewer system for a bath

How to make a drain in the bath? Before proceeding with the construction of an external sewage system, it is recommended to consider several main factors:

intensity of use of the bath room;
building dimensions;
the type of soil composition in the area where the premises will be located;
the level of freezing of the soil cover in winter;
connection to the central sewer.

These factors are an integral part of the initial stages of designing a bath. For frequent use of the premises, it is necessary to design a complex sewerage system.

In addition, ground filtration is carried out. In addition, it is enough to use a sewage pit. Waste will gradually be absorbed into the thickness of the soil cover.

If the site is dominated by sandy soil, then drainage rings are used for reliability. For clay soil, the best solution would be to strengthen the internal walls. As the pit fills with waste, it must be cleaned with special equipment.

Advantages and disadvantages of sewer drain devices

To date, there are a huge number of devices for arranging drain sewers for a bath. They have both positive and negative sides. These include:

Drainage well. It is a deep pit, the walls of which are filled with filtrate. For this, sand, small gravel, pebbles are used.

The advantages of this method include: low cost of materials, ease in the process of arrangement. The disadvantages include the laborious process of replacing filtered masses with new ones.

Drain well. This is a large container for collecting sewage liquids, in which waste from the bath gradually accumulates. As it is filled, it is cleaned using special equipment or a machine.

The advantages of such a system are: ease of installation and arrangement of the drain pit, low cost. The negative qualities include: frequent cleaning, inconvenient location of the drain well. As a rule, installation should be carried out at the lowest point of the site.

Pit. It is located under the floor covering of the bath. Drainage waste is collected in this pit and is self-cleaned through a filtrate of fine materials.

The positive qualities of the system include: low cost of materials, easy installation. The disadvantages of such a structure are: low throughput, it can be used on sandy and sandy loamy soils.

Ground filtration. This is a system that consists of a septic tank and several pipes. Purified water flows through them. The pipeline is laid at a certain angle, due to which all the liquid will independently drain and be absorbed by the soil.

The advantages of such a system are considered: it can be used for the entire sewer network, it is used to thoroughly clean the liquid from harmful impurities. The photo of the drain in the bath shows the process of filtering sewage waste.

Photo drain in the bath

When building a bath, it is imperative to arrange a high-quality drain. In this case, the smell from stagnant water will not subsequently enter the room. Floors will last much longer. There are several options for arranging a system for draining water from a washing and steam room. We will tell about them further.

The simplest drain in the bath

First, let's see how to make a drain in a bath of the simplest design. In the event that the soil under the building is sandy and easily absorbs water, you can not "bother" and arrange the receiver right in it. At the same time, a hole is dug under the sink, and the floors are made slightly inclined towards it. In order to prevent an unpleasant smell from penetrating the bath, vent holes are made in the foundation. However, more often the drain has a more complex design. In this case, when pouring the foundation, if it is tape, a hole is left in it for the drainage pipe.

Trench and drain pipe

Under the pipe through which the water will drain, of course, you will need to dig a trench. Do not arrange too long drain.

It is also not necessary to dig a drainage well or install a septic tank very close to the foundation. The optimal distance from the walls of the bath to the receiver is 1-3 m. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the trench. The question of how to make a drain in the bath comes down, among other things, to what material and what diameter pipes should be used. Usually, plastic ones are taken for the water drainage device. A steel drain will quickly rust. The diameter of the pipe depends on how many people will bathe in the washing room at the same time. The minimum allowable is 50 mm. The trench must be dug at an angle. The steeper the pipe is inclined, the better.

well receiver

How to make a drain in the bath, we found out. Where will the used water go? As a receiver, an ordinary well is most often arranged. Its depth should be at least 1.5 meters. The diameter depends on the amount of water received. One person spends in the bath about 20 liters of water per visit. Five people will thus consume 100 liters. For such an amount of water, a well diameter of one meter is enough. Next, the receiver must be half filled with expanded clay or crushed stone. The walls are coated with clay. From above, the well is covered with boards and covered with earth. The pipe should enter it at a distance of about 60-70 cm from the upper boundary of the soil. This will prevent the sewage from freezing in winter.

Receiver-septic tank

If desired, you can arrange near the bathhouse (photo below) not a well, but a simple septic tank. It is made from an ordinary standard plastic barrel. A hole is also dug beforehand. You need to dig down to the sandy layer of soil. Usually it is located at a depth of 1-1.5 meters. Further, as in the first case, a layer of rubble is poured onto the bottom. It must be tamped down.

A hole is drilled in the side of the barrel for a pipe, which will subsequently be attached to the drain pipe. Any septic tank must be connected to the open air. To ensure air exchange, a hole is drilled in the middle of the barrel for an exhaust pipe of small diameter. If this is not done, with an increase in air pressure in the barrel during the inflow of water, it will simply be squeezed out through the drain pipe into the bath room along with an unpleasant odor.

Next, a pipe is inserted into the side hole, and an exhaust pipe is mounted in the cut out in the bottom. Then the barrel is placed upside down in the pit. Then the socket of the pipe is put on a pipe coming out of the ground, through which the water is drained from the bath. Even if the rubble at the bottom of the pit is compacted very carefully, the barrel can still sag over time. To prevent the pipe from slipping off the pipe, it is drilled to it on the sides with two self-tapping screws. After installation, the space between the walls of the barrel and the walls of the pit is covered with rubble. Next, the structure is sprinkled with earth.

Since the septic tank is outside, someone can step on it from above. Therefore, in order to prevent the bottom of the barrel from being squeezed, it should be covered with boards or a piece of thick tin before backfilling.

Drain device in the bath itself

Drainage in the floor of the bath can be arranged in several ways. In any case, the soil under the floor is concreted with a slope towards the pipe. A small receiving pit-tray is arranged around it. This is necessary so that the water leaves the bath faster. The floors are laid on the logs. The latter are placed on concrete or brick square columns erected on this concrete base. From above, the logs must be waterproofed with mastic or roofing material. Next, mount the floor boards. Sometimes they are not nailed, but simply laid with a distance of 5 mm from each other. Water flows into these cracks. From time to time, the boards are removed and dried in the open air. Such floors are called leaky.

Of course, such a floor device is not very convenient. Firstly, when walking, the boards will move, and secondly, in winter, cold air will flow from the cracks. Therefore, the floors in the bath are often made capital.

Tiled floor in the bath

Sometimes a tiled floor device can also be used. Baths are also used to relax and unwind. And since ceramics is a slippery material, and, moreover, it also heats up at high temperatures, it is usually additionally covered with wooden shields for ease of movement. From below, so that the surface of the latter is horizontal, bars of different thicknesses are stuffed. Like leaking wood floors, these boards get dried out from time to time.

Clay floor in the bath

The clay version of the coating is also a rather interesting floor device. It is quite pleasant to walk in baths with such a finish, since this material has a very low degree of thermal conductivity. In this case, instead of a concrete solution, a clay mixture is simply used. However, such floors have one significant drawback. When wet, the clay swells noticeably. After drying, it takes on its original dimensions, while cracking strongly. Subsequently, water begins to stagnate in the cracks. As a result, an unpleasant odor appears in the bath.

Water seal device

This is how the floor is made. It is pleasant to go to baths with any of these coating options only if there is a so-called water seal. Without it, cold and bad-smelling air from the receiving pipe may begin to enter the room. A water seal can be made by simply installing a special plastic cup with legs on the pipe that goes into the tray. Entering the receiver, the water will lift it and go into the drain. Air will not enter the bath from the pipe. The receiving tray should be closed with a grill. This will prevent leaves from brooms and other debris from getting into the drain.

Insulated floor in the bath

If you intend to use the bath in the winter, it is worth arranging insulated floors in it. In this case, a draft floor is first stuffed, on which expanded clay is poured or expanded polystyrene is laid. In the middle, a receiving chute is carried out. Next, a finishing floor is stuffed onto the logs of different heights. It should be with a slope of the boards from the walls to the gutter. Before backfilling expanded clay, the subfloor is covered with a vapor barrier. On top of the insulation, waterproofing is laid. The gaps between the boards of the finishing floor are sealed. Expanded clay for insulation is suitable only mixed - at least from two fractions of different sizes.

Screed insulation

Thus, we have found out how to make a drain in the bath and what the floors should be like. Now let's look at how to properly make a concrete base for coating. Before pouring it, the soil is carefully tamped, arranging a slight slope towards the receiver-tray. After that, a layer of rubble about 10-15 cm is poured on it. The foundation should be protected by laying a layer of clay around it. Then everything is poured with concrete. If desired, floor insulation can be arranged at this stage. In this case, a thin screed is poured over the rubble. A layer of expanded clay is poured on it. Next, the main concrete floor is poured. This layer must be reinforced. The easiest way is to use a regular chain-link mesh for this purpose. After pouring, the concrete surface must be leveled as carefully as possible with a board.

How to prepare a concrete solution

Of course, the concrete floor of the bath should be as reliable as possible. Therefore, the solution should be prepared strictly adhering to the established technology. Sand must be taken large and necessarily sifted. Cement for the device of a concrete bath floor is used only the highest grades. M400 is the best. Kneading is done in a ratio of 1:3. Mix the ingredients as thoroughly as possible. It is best to do this using special equipment. It is very difficult to prepare a homogeneous composition manually. The presence of non-mixed parts noticeably weakens the flooded structure.

Shower in the bath

Showers in the bath suit quite rarely. Its simplest option is an ordinary bucket suspended above the entrance to the steam room. However, you can use other, structurally simple, but somewhat more "advanced" options. After all, contrasting water procedures are actually very useful. You can, for example, install a tank on the ceiling and bring a branch pipe into the bathhouse from the ceiling. Next, a regular watering can is connected to it. Water can be pumped into the tank from a well through a hose. The shower drain in this case can be arranged according to the same principle as the main bath. Most often, the used water simply leaves the bath through a common receiver.

Bath device diagrams

A drain is not the only feature of such an unusual building as a bathhouse. It will be convenient only if the layout of the location of its premises is correct. Therefore, finally, let's consider what the bath scheme should be. There are many options for the location of the steam room, washing and changing rooms. If you wish, you can develop your own project. However, it is worth observing some basic rules:

The stove is best placed in the middle of the building, so that it is possible to heat not only the steam room and washing room, but also the locker room. Otherwise, it will be cold to dress in winter after visiting the bath. If the building is large, it is worth arranging two ovens.
Even in a very small bath, it is desirable to equip a vestibule with an area of at least a square meter. If the front door is located too close to the street, in winter it will begin to freeze to the frame due to condensation.
If in the future it is planned to arrange gatherings with beer in the bathhouse, it is worth allocating a little space for the toilet.

Bath room dimensions

The scheme of the bath, of course, should include such information as the size of its premises. When drawing up a project, it is worth considering their minimum allowable area per person:

For the locker room - 2-4 m 2.
For washing - 2.7 m 2.
For a steam room - 2-3 m 2.

Based on these figures and knowing how many people will wash at the same time, it will not be difficult to calculate the required area of the building.

How to rationally arrange rooms

Most often, two entrances are arranged in the vestibule: one to the washing room, behind which there is a steam room, the second to the locker room. This is really the most convenient scheme. In small bathhouses, the vestibule usually also serves as a dressing room. To finally decide on what the building should be, you can view different drawings of the bath. One of them is presented to your attention on this page a little higher. And this is how saunas are built in Europe:

Thus, having correctly carried out the layout, having arranged a good drain, as well as having completed all other work with strict observance of the established technologies, it is possible to build a comfortable and durable bathhouse in a suburban area. If there is no particular desire to build something on your own, you can order a service from a construction organization such as a turnkey bath. In this case, our recommendations will help you control the work of the hired team.