Dining folding table with your own hands - only for a large family. Folding Tourist table from plywood table for trading folding with their own hands
It would seem that there would be a catastrophic lack of space for free movement - the total "disease" only apartments and private houses of the old Soviet layout when the number was strictly regulated square meters residential area per person or limited total area private house. However, what then explains the popularity of multifunctional or folding furniture worldwide? The answer is simple: a person treats rationally to the world around him, including - and to the space of his house. Folding, changing their sizes tables and chairs - bright example So.
Several reasons to make a folding table with your own hands
Today the market offers many different designs The folding tables, but there is nothing complicated and in their independent making. In addition, make a folding table with their own hands in some cases much more profitable and, again, rational:
- the size of the table can be varied on the basis of the size of a particular room;
- the design of the table can be chosen depending on the convenience of use, as desired;
- the design of the table is chosen in accordance with the interior of the room, so it is not "knocked out" from general style premises.
An important factor is the exclusivity of the hand-made furniture.
Folding table in the kitchen - the most optimal option in conditions small-sized apartmentsWhen for him (folded form), all family members can be located. In the unfolded version, this is a full-fledged banquet table, followed by halved (and then three times) more people.
To make a folding dining table, it is not necessary to go to the courses of the Cabinetous Wriths: you can simply take advantage of our advice, it's a little to dream (regarding design, of course), and a little more think about the drawings of the folding table that you need.
Materials, Fixtures, Fittings and Tools
To work, in addition to the material (for table tops and the elements of the table box, it is better to use LDSP), you will need:
- Tools - Electrolovka (or manual end electric saw), electric drill, screwdriver or curly screwdriver, key for confirmates.
- Fasteners and fittings - their number, species and dimensions depend on the proposed design of the table, so we will speak about them in each case separately.
Case 1. Production of folding table - transformer " coffee table»
If you decide to make a folding table - a transformer for the living room, then you will need to purchase special mechanisms for the transformation (Fig. 1 or 2). Such a table will be perfectly masked for an ordinary magazine, while you will not be granted guests and do not need to cover the table for several people in the living room.
Transformers can have different dimensions.
Fig.1 Single transformation mechanism
Fig.2 Double transformation mechanism
Make such a table is simple enough, subject to the exact compliance with the instructions and the procedures of action.
First of all, carefully consider the proposed drawing of the folding table (Fig. 3), specify its dimensions relative to their requests and, if necessary, make changes to your drawing.
Fig.3 Folding Table Drawing
We need:
- Plate LDS (25mm):
- For table tops - panels 750x90 mm (2pcs);
- in the event of a dual mechanism (Fig. 2) - another 350x720mm size panel for auxiliary countertop;
- in the event of a selection of the mechanism with Fig. 1 - the connecting panel, the length of which is equal to the distance between the platforms of the mechanisms, the width - the length of the mechanism platform.
For frame:
- 2 panels 730x460mm (end sides of the table),
- 2 panels 730x150mm (side pieces of the box for the mechanism serving tabletop strapping);
- 2 panels with dimensions of 680x730mm (bottom of the box for the mechanism) and 730x730 mm (shelf for magazines "g").
Fig.4 Corners of furniture
Important! All items should be revealed very precisely, before final assembly It is best to "push" the main components of the table and, if necessary, be adjusted for sizes.
Assembling folding table-transformer
Face parts of all color details are processed with grinding paper (skins), sack the melamine edge under the color of the LDSP.
Fig.5 Assembling Basics of Transformer Table
If you were attentive and accurate when marking parts and sawing them, then the assembly of the table will not take much time and strength.
As shown in Fig. 3 and 5, first with the help of configmatics connect the bottom and sides of the drawer for the mechanism (on the part B of Figure No. 5 they are marked with cross).
With the help of the same confirmates, at the desired height of the floor, fasten the shelf for magazines with end parts of the table - 2-3 fasteners on the side.
Box Breeping to the end legs with the help of furniture corners, for a large reliability screwing up another 1-2 confinal in the middle of the line of contact of the bottom of the box and the end plate of the table.
- With the help of false loops we collect a tabletop;
- In the table box, the mechanism for transformation is converted.
To the platforms of the mechanism, both a countertop:
If the mechanism is single, then krepim low part Countertops, and the second pair fasten the connecting panel (from the bottom side of the platforms).
If the mechanism is double - then the countertop is fed to the large shoulders of the mechanism, and the support countertop is to the smaller.
Table ready. It remains only to disguise the caps of the confirm heads and wait for the guests!
Case 2. Production of the Rotary Folding Table
If you are more fascinated by the idea of \u200b\u200ba rotary folding table - then it will be needed a special fastener for rotation (you can use the swivel mechanism for TV), but if the table is laid out not daily - you can do without it.
Fig.6 Rotary folding table
To make a folding dining table with swivel countertopWe will need a laminated chipboard (25 mm thick) of the following dimensions:
- 770х500 mm - 2pcs. (for folding countertops);
- 400x670 mm - for false countertops (1pc.);
- 645x100 mm and 375x100 mm - 2pcs. (for strapping table legs);
- 4 bar 40x40mm or 60x60mm 700 -750 mm long (for legs).
In addition, it will take 8 furniture corners for fastening legs, 8 configmatics for blocking boxes, sliding hinges for countertops, rotary mechanism For TV, 4-6 wooden wrenches.
Fig.7 Tabletop turning scheme
It should be said that one of the most popular transformers is a book table, whose drawings you can also find on our website.
The table with your own hands may well be made even a homemade master who does not have any accumulated experience in the joinery craft. Of course, it will be possible if the design of the table will be sufficiently simple and understandable.
For example, find a suitable ready-made table model for a kitchen with overly small dimensions is not always obtained. Purchase to order furniture from the wood array - sufficiently placed. Therefore, it is sometimes necessary to take care of the tools and design your own "work" yourself, pushing out the specific sizes of the place where the table is planned.
In addition, it is often a desire to show their creative abilities in the conditions of cottages, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip the veranda or gazebo country plot. If you have suitable materials and tools, then you can or sit for drawing up the drawing of the future table, or take advantage ready projectand then start work.
To understand which of the types of tables under the power to build with your own hands, it is desirable to consider several options for this subject of furniture.
Before starting work, you must prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.
You can use ordinary, traditional hand toolswhich worked carpenters. This list usually includes:
- The plans to be aligned with wood and drive items to the desired size.
- Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removal of small protrusions.
- Saws different size and modifications that cut thick boards or make small marbles.
- Pencil, roulette, corner and ruler.
- Screwdriver Set.
- Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
- Sanding paper for grinding.
Many of the tools can be replaced by more modern and convenient devices:
- Electric jigscription will perform all the work for which they used to be used, the various saws mentioned above.
- Grinding machine will help to make the surfaces smooth and departs them to shine, relieve from a very tedious procedure manual processing emery paper.
- Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help rounding sharp corners, curb figure grooves under furniture loops, and if necessary, there is a certain experience, then using it you can decorate the table with a relief pattern.
- Significantly accelerates work, as it will have to spend on the twist of each self-proof for a few minutes. In addition, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills in it with certain operations, for example, in order to process the edge or make a perfectly smooth large or fine hole (groove).
- The building level will help make the product smooth and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and skews.
To finished furniture It was not obtained "dashest", the assembly controls the level
Easy in the manufacture of a table for the country area
Make a similar country table - forces to everyone
Necessary materials
For such a dacha having a tabletop size of 1680 × 850 mm, it will not be necessary too a large number of Wooden blanks. It is necessary to prepare the following:
- Bar, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (Table legs).
- Board, size:
- 1680 × 100 × 25 mm - 4 pcs. (longitudinal framework elements);
- 850 × 100 × 25 mm - 2 pcs. (transverse framework parts);
- 1580 × 100 × 25 mm - 2 pcs. (facing boards for the side elements of the frame);
- 950 × 100 × 25 mm - 17 pcs. (Boards for the table top).
- Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
- Carpentry glue.
Everything wooden elements Must be treated with the compositions and have a prepared smooth surface. If it is planned to "darken" wood, it is coated with a verse, and for the manifestation of a texture pattern - on top neatly passing grinding machine. Sanding paper with small grain will remove the blurred sublime parts of the wood pattern, and they will become lighter than recess.
Installation of garden table
When all parts for the frame will be prepared, you can go to the assembly.
Frame or "Box"
- The first step of the table-top framework details are four longitudinal boards of 1680 × 100 × 25 mm and two end 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on big Table Or on the floor. On the end boards there is a markup of the location of the internal and exterior boards. Using a ruler, relying on the drawing, the desired distances are measured and the pencil is marked. Be sure to accurately note the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end, especially if the connection is to pass in the insertion method.
The connection of the elements can be carried out in different ways:
Connection with the choice of a "quarter" and using metal corners
- with the help of a steel corner - this is the easiest and most reliable way;
- the method of the insert is a more complex way, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;
Several types of connection on the principle of "Ship-Paz"
- "Paz-Schip" shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a compound is also quite difficult for beginner masters who do not have experience;
- The connection of the wizards is shown on Fenther E) - this method also requires ideal accuracy when marking and drumming the holes in the parts connected.
- All compounds are usually carried out with glue. An exception is only fastening the details of the metal corner.
- The frame must have perfectly verified direct angles, so after connecting all the elements, you need to control the construction of the construction corner and measurement and comparing the length of the diagonals.
- If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and leave it to the complete burden, otherwise they will be connected unreliable.
- When the glue is driving, and the frame will acquire a certain rigidity, facing boards are fixed to external longitudinal sides of a size of 1580 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of their attachments also need to be placed, since in their edges there should be a distance for the installation of the legs. Facing boards are also placed on glue and fixed with self-drawing, the hats of which should be dried in wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.
- The next step is the transverse case of the countertop boards 950 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of consolidation is also needed to first place, starting from the middle of the frame, as they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Table tops over the frame should be 25 mm from all four sides.
- Further, each of the boards are fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the extreme boards are also to the end parties. So that the hats of the screws were recessed, for them in the boards, the recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled into a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, the drill of a smaller diameter (usually - 3 mm) through holes are dried, in which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. To avoid cracking of the boards when installation workThrough through holes must be drilled.
- After that, on the edges of the longitudinal boards, the legs of a bar with a cross section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed, they must accurately coincide with the width of the table top.
The next step - the legs are installed
- The legs can be fixed to the frame by self-drawing, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them on the diagonal of the connection site. Through the bolts are drilled through holes, and the twisting of the nuts on them is made from the inside of the frame using the key.
- The final stage of manufacturing is seeding with screws of self-tapping screws with a mixture made of joinery or epoxy glue and sawdust. This homemade putty Fill the deepening over the hats and spill well. After grazeing the glue all the worktop, and especially the places closed by the "plugs" of the glue, you need to polish well.
- After that, the table can be covered with varnish or paint on water based. Waiting for drying the decorating or protective layer, the product can be installed in country gazebo, on the veranda or terrace in the recreation area.
If desired, the set to the table will be easy to make or bench.
Small folding table for kitchen
Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.
- Its design is arranged in such a way that the countertop cannot work independently if the feet of the table will be condemned, so the table is quite safe for installation in the children's room.
- The presence of a bilateral spacious bedside table will allow you to store various trifles and small toys.
- The table is equipped with a tabletop of sufficient size so that the child, sitting behind him, could perform homework.
- In addition, there will be a place for a laptop on the worktop or the books necessary for studying books.
- If necessary, this small table can easily replace and ironing boardIf there is a soft tissue on its surface.
Given all the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite the very compact dimensions.
Learn how, as well as check out several models with detailed instructions, in the special article of our portal.
Required materials and details for folding table
To collect such comfortable subject Furniture, you need to prepare all the details from which it consists. The list of necessary blanks is shown in the table below, and how to manufacture them - will be described and shown below:
Scheme of the table with the populated numbers of assembly parts (clickable illustration - click to enlarge)
| Details number in the drawing | the name of detail | Number, pcs. | Detail size, mm | Material of manufacture, thickness, mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Folding part of the table top. | 1 | 600 × 600. | |
| 2 | Fixed table top of the couch. | 1 | 600 × 475. | Multilayer Plywood 25mm Thick |
| 3 | 2 | 530 × 30. | ||
| 4 | 2 | 120 × 30. | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick | |
| 5 | Top face detail of the groove, limiting the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122 × 30. | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 6 | Element groove for the movement of the leg on the folding countertop. | 2 | 530 × 20. | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 7 | The element of the groove for the movement of the leg on the tabletop of the couch. | 2 | 120 × 20. | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 8 | Lower end detail of the groove, limiting the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122 × 20. | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 9 | Side walls of table stands. | 2 | 720 × 520. | MDF 19 mm |
| 10 | Horizontal details of the stands forming the shelves. | 3 | 520 × 312. | MDF 19 mm |
| 11 | Lower vertical part internal partition Cumbers. | 1 | 418 × 312. | MDF 19 mm |
| 12 | The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the couch. | 1 | 312 × 184. | MDF 19 mm |
| 13 | The average horizontal part of the couch. | 1 | 310 × 250. | MDF 19 mm |
| 14 | Door of the couch. | 1 | 477 × 346. | MDF 19 mm |
| 15 | Shelf of the couch. | 1 | 310 × 250. | MDF 19 mm |
| 16 | Facade cabinet drawer. | 1 | 346 × 209. | MDF 19 mm |
| 17 | Front drawer panel (located behind the facade). | 1 | 418 × 312. | MDF 19 mm |
| 18 | Side panels drawer. | 2 | 341 × 250. | MDF 19 mm |
| 19 | Rear drawer panel. | 1 | 272 × 120. | MDF 19 mm |
| 20 | Bottom panel box. | 1 | 341 × 272. | MDF 19 mm |
| Handles for drawer and door doors. | 2 | Ø 30 mm | Wood | |
| Upper leg element. | 1 | 80 × 80 × 18 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick | |
| Mobile feet of the table. | 1 | Ø Top 55, bottom 30, height 702 | Wood | |
| Furniture loops for connecting two parts of the table top. | 2 | Ø 50 mm | Metal | |
| Furniture loops for the door. | 2 | The size depends on the form. | Metal | |
| Bottom end panels covering the lumen under the tab. | 2 | 20 × 300 × 5 | Plywood 5 mm |
The figures show the drawing of the table to which you can rely on the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single design.
The main sizes of the table (illustration clickable - click to enlarge)
Separate table nodes - retractable box and guide channel for moving legs (Illustration of clickable - Click to enlarge)
For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, modern electrical tools will be required that can bring the workpiece to professional perfection.
Learn how to make with a photo and description in a special article of our portal.
Installation of folding table stands
Start the manufacture of the table stands with the most important and large part of its details - countertops. Since the folding table, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, that which can be thrown down if necessary. In the folded state, this table may well perform the role of a conventional compact standby.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation |
|---|---|
 | The first step of plywood with a thickness of 25 mm, using a jigsaw or circular saw, it is necessary to cut the blanks for the table top, the size of 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm. |
 | Next, the larger panel is marked - the semicircle is drawn up, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve proper form Semicircles, you can use a large building circula, or make it yourself - from the nail, pencil and rope. |
 | Then, according to the noted, the tabletop curly. This can be done using a jigsaw or circular saw by installing an appropriate zircle nozzle on it. |
 | Further, the milling machine is set to the cutter of the desired configuration, which will make the edges of the table top smooth, optionally - smooth or rounded. |
 | The milling part of the panel is treated with a milling part, leaving a smooth one side that will stick with the second part of the table top. The edges are then processed. |
 | The next step, the two treated parts of the table top are laid on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Marking is made to install furniture loops. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the table top. Furniture loops can have different shape, so they should be put on the marked place and circle simple pencil. Then, with the help of a milling mill in the plywood, special curly grooves are arranged, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture loops. In the finished holes of the loops are fixed with the help of self-tapping screws. |
 | After connecting the hinges of two parts of the table, in the middle of the panels, there is a markup from the bottom side to secure parts that form a closed channel for the movement of the moving feet of the table. Guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the joint of two parts of the table. For the manufacture of parts, plywood is 18 mm thick. Then, cut out of it and processed by a mill of 10 elements: 530 × 30 mm in size - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2pcs, 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 × 20 mm - 2pc., 122 × 20 mm -1 pcs. It is important to remember that long rails must have from one edge, and short elements on both sides of the sections of 45˚ so that when docking, they formed a straight angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts fixed on top of the lower rails of the guides are cut from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These sections are necessary to ensure that their corners do not interfere with the foot of the legs by the resulting channel. Then, to the discharged section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the tabletop are glued with carbon glue parts. First, they are fixed on the glue, and then screwed up the longest rails having a size of 530 × 20 mm, then overlaps the channel part 122 × 20 mm. On top of long and short fixed rivers are pasted by second, having the same length, but large widths are also additionally screwed by self-draws. Thus, a smooth channel forms between the tabletop and the upper rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of spouts of screws in so that the upper does not come across those that fix the lower rails. Similarly, four parts and on the rectangular part of the table top are fixed. All items should be processed before smoothness and perfectly fixed with each other, otherwise the leg when moving will be stumbled on obstacles and jam. |
 | The leg is usually made on turning machine. If it is not, then it can be ordered to order it at the master or purchase it finished video. As a last resort, you can make it square, processing the timber necessary height before smoothness. Then, on the upper end part of the leg with the help of a duct and glue is fixed exactly in the center, the guide square plate of plywood, having dimensions of 80 × 80 × 18 mm. |
 | Next, after drying the glue, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and test for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, you can carry out minor fit and refinement. |
 | The finished countertop is painted, or is covered with a water-based varnish - if the goal is set to preserve the factory drawing of plywood. After that, the finished countertop is laying aside and go to the manufacture of the couch. |
 | Elements of the cabinets do not have complex configurations, so it is enough to make them enough on the MDF panel or a thick phaneer to accurately move the dimensions of the parts specified in the table, and gently cut them out them with a jigsaw or saws. After the items are made, their end parts must be processed before smoothness by the milling mill, otherwise they will look inactively. |
 | If you plan to leave the visible end parts of the details of the chandeliers with a special laminated edge ribbon, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on the inner side has a layer of glue, which is heated under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels. |
 | The next step in the door panel of the cabinets you need to make curly grooves in which furniture loops will be fixed and fixed. The holes are made in the same way as in the tabletop with a millingrer, but in this case the mill can be installed in the screwdriver, since the MDF has a smaller density than glued puff And it is easier to handle without chipping material. The loop should be located at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before the start of drilling you need to spend thorough markup. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the couch to which the door will be fixed. Then the door of the door is joined among themselves, to check the correctness of the installation and for the holes for the screws for the screws. |
 | In addition to loops, you can immediately fasten the prepared handle. To do this, retreating the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a convenient position in height, the point is noted through which the through hole is drilled to fix the handle. |
 | All made parts of the cabinet are painted paint selected color with roller and brush. Paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but also protects the material from negative influence Specific kitchen wet environment. |
 | Next, you can go to the assembly of the bedside tables. Professionals spend this process using special tools, but they can be completely replaced by appliant devices. For example, you can assemble on a flat table, and for the convenience of installing the cabinets, it is additionally installed on smooth bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out with the help of wooden drums, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the last option is the easiest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, hats of self-assembly after assembly will have to mask various compositions. The assembly process occurs as follows: - The bottom panel is laid on the stand. - It is set to it in terms of the level and with the help of a construction corner one of the side panels and its location is marked with a pencil. - And the same is planned on the horizontal and vertical panel the location of the fastening parts. - exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and separation middle wall. - Then, on the marked points of the bottom and end sides of the side panels, holes are drilled to install the waders. - After that, before gluing the parts, the locations are defined on the side walls to install the shelves. Then, in the marked places mounted brackets-shelters for which holes are also drilled. - Next, in the holes, drilled in the bottom, are mounted glued by glue, the side walls are put on the upper, protruding part. - the non-removable jumper shelves are mounted in the same way, simultaneously with the side walls. |
 | Before you continue to work, you need to make sure that the glue in collected design Good miss. In order for the cabinet to stood tougher, it is placed on the side and for the breakdown squeezed by clamps. |
 | While driving glue, you can take a drawer assembly. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out with the help of a wanking. The lateral sides are assigned to the bottom part of the box, and the line has a pencil, and then marked seats where the sewage will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and on the marked places, the holes are drilled in their end to install fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the wrenches are missing with glue and gently inserted into the holes, connecting the sidewalls with the bottom. |
 | Bathrooms are twisted with the help of self-tapping screws, the hats of which are recommended to be dried into wood, and the holes should be sealing from epoxy glue and sawdust. Another fastening option can become furniture corners, which are from the inside are screwed to the sidewalls by self-draws. Each of the sides will take two corners. |
 | Collecting the box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a construction corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise there may be a skew. |
 | If it is planned to install metal roller guides for a lightweight drawer, then to start on the sidewalls of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet, the place of their attachment is determined. To do this, with the help of a pencil and ruler, the line is drawn, on which the guides will be enshrined. |
 | Next, the front panel is installed to the front of the box. It is screwed from the inside of the drawer, through pre-marked and drilled holes. Recommended In addition to the screws for fastening the panel, use the glue: it is applied to the front panel, and then the facade is pressed to it, and they are tightened with four-five screws. After drying the glue in the center facade panel A hole is drilled through which the handle is screwed. |
 | Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the connection of the stands and countertops. The stationary part of the countertops is recommended to first be glued to the surface of the couch, and then fasten it with self-stairs, which are screwed from the inside lower cabinets. But first, the countertop must be right. A part of the channel located on the stationaryly installed tabletop panel must be restarted into the side of the couch - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the legs towards the table. The countertop should go beyond the edges of the cutter on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg - 120 mm. |
 | Securing the tabletop, go to the final installation and screwing on the dormitory of the bedside tables. Then the retractable box is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelves. |
 | In the closed state, the compact table, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetic. If you wish to decorate it, you can choose other colors that will be better harmony with the interior of a particular room. |
 | In the open state, the table will also not take much space and perfectly fit into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its "easy" design, it does not waste the interior, and the shape of the tabletop makes it safe for children. Therefore, this option can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms. |
If there is a need to save money, or just there is a big desire to show yourself in joiner's work, then you should not postpone independent manufacture. Moreover, the assembly will become not only interesting and useful, but also very pleasant, especially at the moment when the work will be successfully completed.
IN everyday life A small table fully meets the needs of a family of 3-4 people. Such a table is successfully used both as a kitchen, and as a dining. The situation changes dramatically when guests appear. Many people have a desire to make a sliding table with their own hands.
Any table is not a very simple design, which should withstand significant loads and frequent movements around the apartment. Despite certain difficulties, make the sliding table with their own hands under the power of anyone who is familiar with the joinery. Constructions of sliding and folding tables set. It is only necessary to actually appreciate which one you can do.
Step-by-step instructions: the basics of design
Any table consists of a tabletop, legs and fasteners. Sliding (folding) structures additionally contain removable or movable inserts of the countertops and the sliding mechanism. In the form of the tabletop can be round (in the proportion of state - oval) or square (rectangular).
The basic requirements that are presented to the design are the strength of the table top and the reliability of the feet of the legs, which should allow you to withstand loads (including drums) and be resistant when used during cooking or dinner. In addition, the surface must be comfortable and practical.
The size of the table is determined mainly by room dimensions and the number of guests that can sit at the same time. Height dining table. It is usually 73 cm. Dimensions in the proportion can be calculated based on the condition that optimal distance per person at the table - 60-70 cm.
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Choosing basic materials
If it is decided to make the table with your own hands, you should decide on the material for the main elements. Aesthetic impression of the design of the table mainly provides a countertop. In addition, moisture, fat and other active substances applied during cooking; Increased temperature from hot dishes; Significant mechanical loads can be applied. Wooden countertops It is fairly reliable, environmentally friendly, practical and aesthetic, but at the same time roads and complex in the manufacture.
The greatest use as countertops found wood pine, oak and walnut. When using wood, it should be well dried and treated with moisture-proof compositions. If the surface is applied natural treeIt must be polished periodically, and also to cover varnish or wax.
Simple, cheap, but enough reliable table top It turns out from the laminated wood-chip plate with a thickness of at least 20 mm. The ends of the plates are rounded and coated with protective material, for example, silicone or polyvinyl chloride film. Such plates can be additionally covered with plastic. The latter disadvantage of such a material is swelling when moisture in the thickness of the material. For other indicators, this material is quite capable of competing with wood.
The feet of the table can be made independently, and you can buy ready. The most common option is the legs from wooden bar. Minimum dimensions Bruck make up 40x40 mm. For big tables You should use a larger bar. So, for the table length (in the suspended state) about 2 m is recommended for a timing of 85x85 mm. The legs can be square, round or carved depending on the desire and capabilities of the manufacturer.
Besides wooden legs Find the use of metal. For example, you can purchase ready-made metal legs in the form of a pipe with a diameter of 70-90 mm. You can make steel or aluminum legs from the pipe and various profiles.
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Sliding table design
One of the most simple designs The sliding table is based on the increase in size due to the sort of surface and laying additional elements. The main countertop consists of two parts that are not fastened with legs and have the possibility of longitudinal movement in opposite sides.
The sliding structure consists of the following main parts: the base; The main countertop consisting of two identical parts; Full-point guides; Additional panels. The base is made in the form of a frame connecting the legs with each other with jumpers (Cangg) and top panel, reminiscent of the tabletop, but fixed on the legs.
Each of the parts of the main countertop consists of directly surface and fixed on it three sidewalls. The extension mechanism is recommended to be made from standard guide full cleansing for retractable boxes. It is necessary to purchase two sets of the guide length of at least 30 cm. Additional elements of the table top are made similarly to the main surface and have a length equal to the width of the table top, and their width is determined by the length of the extension. The number of elements can be from 1 to 3 at the discretion of the manufacturer.
The principle of the construction of the design is very simple: both parts of the main table tops are mixed in the guides fixed on the basis of the table, until it stops. At the same time, the table top slides on the surface of the base. In the resulting space between two parts are set additional elementswhich together with the main parts create a form of a solid table top.
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Production of the base
The main function of the base of the table - reliable connection Table legs with each other and support for installation of the table top. The binding of wooden legs into a single frame is made with the help of wooden jumpers - Cang. Canggi is made of plywood or boards 10-12 cm wide and a thickness of 18-20 mm. The length of the colang is determined by the selected table size in the inhabitual state.
To secure the colang, in the upper part of the legs on two adjacent sides, the grooves are made of the size corresponding to the cross section of the collet, a depth of 20 mm. In the grooves are fixed by the ends of the colang. The connection site is sick and strengthened with screws. To strengthen the connection of the legs in heavy tables, it is recommended to install wooden slats in the connection locations.
From above the frame is fixed by a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 10-12 mm. The size of the sheet is determined by the dimensions of the frame. Sheet is fixed with screws. In the final form, the base is a table with a draft countertop. The upper plywood sheet is not a mandatory element, as the design will be operational and without it.
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Making the main table top
First, it takes out the cutting and cutting the two parts of the table top of the selected sizes. If necessary, the surface and sealing of the ends are made. On the inner end (which is combined with the end of the second part) of each of the parts of the table top two holes are drilled to enter them the removable elements in them. The diameter of the opening is 8-10 mm.
A P-shaped side of the sidewall is made, which is a strip of a chipboard or a $ 100-120 mm width and a thickness of 18-20 mm. The sidewall length corresponds to the size of the base of the table, measured by the legs. Corners of the box are strengthened with an aluminum corner from the inside.
On the inside of the side parts of the case, narrow (reverse) parts of the guides are fixed so that the box can move at a height of about 2 mm above plywood sheet Basics of the table (or the surface of the Cangne \u200b\u200bin the absence of a sheet).
A tabletop is installed on the box so that the ceaseplate cutlets coincided with the free ends of the box. With the help of aluminum corners, the tabletop and the box are connected together.
The need for a table, which can be brought to a picnic, and there quickly collect and disassemble with your own hands, it happens great. Make a table for a picnic with your own hands is not too difficult, and time takes out not so much. This skill will come in handy in life, as the ability to work with a tree and knowledge of basic tools is important for comfortable life. It is best for making a table to choose a tree, since this material is easy, durable and environmentally, if all the steps of its processing are passed. Working with a tree is easier than with plastic, and the initial woodworking skills are well mastered on such simple items.
Scheme with dimensions folding table With removable legs.
Picnic table - varieties
The appearance of the tables for a picnic differs in the form of table tops - it is most often rectangular, but there are also models with a round or square, and sometimes figure surface. The legs can be made of steel, aluminum or wood.
Most often folding picnic tables rectangular shape, but come round.
If the legs lie down in parallel, it will be convenient for this table, but the design will become less durable. If the legs are arranged crosswise, they are very steady, but it is not very convenient to sit at this table. For uneven surfaces, it is desirable to provide legs removable, which could be adjusted in height. When choosing tables of this kind, it is necessary to navigate not to appearance and size, but on the design features.
For picnics and other trips to nature good option It is a tabletop of lacquered plywood, since the material is this moisture console and will serve for many years. This type of material refers to those that are easy to clean and do not absorb smells. Conveniently in the center of the countertops to provide a hole for the awning to make rest in nature even more comfortable, but the ratio of the table and the awning should be well thought out so that the whole design does not overturn on the wind.
Collapsible table with your own hands
Made of wood or laminated chipboard Tables with parallel with the legs are very neatly looking. Materials and tools needed to make a table for a picnic with their own hands belong to the category common, and you can find them in almost every construction store. For the folding table, you will need:
Drawing with sizes of a folding rectangular table.
- shield glued from a natural tree;
- bar;
- reinforced washers;
- furniture corners;
- furniture loops;
- lamb nuts;
- rivets;
- screws;
- hacksaw;
- electric drill;
- screwdriver or screwdriver;
- pencil or marker.
Picnic table depending on the functional may have various sizesBut one item for all folding tables is common.
The legs, namely the folding part, should be shorter than its height, otherwise the table will not be able to work out.
You can not get up legs on such tables, because folding construction The legs can withstand smaller weight than constant. Having made the table with your own hands, you can then decorate its tabletop with paints or with decoupage.
Procedure for making a table
Scheme of folding square table.
The acquired bar is required to cut into the size of the table, from it will be made legs and crossbars between them. It will take 4 identical segments for the legs and 4 identical crossbars that will fasten the legs between them below and upstairs. Also need transverse barwhich will prevent the folding of the table and the breakdown of his legs.
Pair of legs lay parallel to each other on the table or on the workbench, according to the width of the table and the crossbar. Place two crossbars in the top of the legs and in the corners twist the design with screws. The diagonal of the rectangle, which turned out, should be equal - this will provide a stability table for picnic. After checking, the design is spinning firmly by adding metal corners. The second rack is created in the same way.
Furniture loops made racks attached to the table top. The indents from the edges are made 3-5 cm. Then the picnic tape is attached to the picnic table. It is needed to fix the racks with respect to the tabletop. The tape on the table top is fixed with screws, then putting the rack to the vertical position, cut off the ribbon on optimal length. On the end of the ends, they are fixed with rivets and so that it was possible to disconnect at any time.
Picnic Folding Table
This design is pretty light, and therefore used in campaigns, in the garden and fishing. For the start of work, bars drink, with a prudent reserve of diameter. Cut this kind of materials very convenient on circular saw. For the table top you can choose any material, but preferably lacquered plywood or wood covered with several layers of varnish. The spiles should be closed with the edge ribbon, and the timber, harvested under the legs, is spinning with a jigsaw or grinding.
First of all, they start assembling legs and supports. The legs of the cross will be fixed with each other with a large bolt of a 3-3.5 cm long bolt. A marker or pencil markup for fastening is applied to the tabletop from the inside. Installation of all parts occurs with the help of wood screws. Details are numbered, and a preliminary assembly occurs, after which the design is again disassembled and all parts are lacquered. After a day, for which the lacquer should dry, you can deal with the final assembly.
The folding table can accompany you in a tourist campaign, helping to receive guests on cottage plot, Be a stand at the exhibition or even the counter in the store. Multifunctional I. useful thingwhich is also very optional to buy, but can be made own hands. I offer 2 master classes how to do it.
Master Class No. 1: Folding Table
Before making a folding table with your own hands, you need to get everything necessary:
Necessary materials and tools
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One round barhaving the following dimensions:
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Four transport bolts |
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Four rowing nuts insert from brass |
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Flat nylon cord |
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Mounting stapler with sixmillimeter brackets |
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Handsman on a tree |
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Sandpaper |
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Drill with drillsdiameters 6 and 7 mm |
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A hammer |
Stroke work
Prepare everything you need, proceed to the manufacture of a reassigning table with your own hands:
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Saw round Barlok. on 4 equal parts |
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We saw parquet boards So that resulting in:
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Slimming emery paper Cropped edges of the resulting segments of a round bar |
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Slimming emery paper Cropped edges of the resulting segments of boards |
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Preparing a nylon cord:
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Lay out a plate on the smooth surface The involving side up, placing the separators of the same thickness between them |
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Connect the boards nylon cord, retreating a little from the edge and fixing it with a stapler brackets |
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Strengthen the fastener several hammer blows, if the stapler was weak and could not drive the brackets to sufficient depth |
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The second segmentnylon cord fasten the boards on the other hand and get an almost finished tabletop as a result |
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Drill holes In the corners of the table top with a diameter of 6 mm |
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Insert the bolts in the resulting holes |
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Install the crossbars:
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Prepare legs:
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Install In the prepared holes brass nut-inserts |
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Houch legs on bolts protruding from cross |
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I turn over and put on legs ready to use table |
After operation:
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Master Class number 2: Table with converting legs
The next folding table with your own hands is collected from disconnecting for two parts of the table top and the resulting legs of the legs, similar to the one that is installed on hiking chairs.
prossuch a design:
- High resistance and strength;
- Lack of removable details.
Minuses:
- More complex instruction manufacturing;
- Some loss of compactness. A reassigning tourist table, after all, a little wins in this regard.
Necessary materials
Tools for the most part are used the same as in the above version, so I will not repeat. But with the materials it is different, here you will need:
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Leaf plywood:
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Round Barlok. With a cross section of 24 mm and a length of 32 mm |
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Bar. with a cross section of 20 by 40 mm |
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Selfless |
Instead of a sheet of plywood, you can use the ready-made tabletop from the old table. In this case, the project will be released even cheaper.
Stroke work
Consider how to make a folding table:
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Making countertop:
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Collect the inner legs:
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We collect external legs:
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