We collect the table with your own masters tips. How to make a cottage table tools

The idea of \u200b\u200bcreating an unusual table appeared about a year ago, but the time for its manufacture appeared only now.

Before the "transformation", for six months, the tabletop stood on ordinary round furniture legs. A little rushed, but in general the function of the table was performed.

The countertop was developed in CorelDRAW do it yourself And ordered on the local furniture glass processing plant.

First of all, all sketches were overthrown, all sizes with a further entertainment in a sketch were repaid.

Two arcs performed as the main frame, which in the future all carrying components were fastened. Arcs were made of profile square pipe 20x20 mm, on hand homemade trevalkov pipe bender (Yes, the handle from the meat grinder :-)).

The process of fitting pipes after bending.

We produce fitting arcs on the tabletop.

Welding was made by plasma, with an accurate fit of the elements at the joints. Additional processing in places of seams The design did not require.

We add additional sevendents by taking them from the remainder of the main arcs of the table frame.

As a basis for the mechanism of rising table tops were taken actuators adjustments satellite antenn Superjack HARL-3618 +.

According to the claimed characteristics, peak loading loads - up to 400kg. Options for self-making linear actuator were considered, taking a meter stiletto M10-M12., with a woman welded to a tube, with 12V. The engine from the car windows or the system of janitors of the glass wraths, but in view of the lack of time to many experiments, postponed the idea for future projects.

The frame frame was installed on three linear actuators, which is sufficient for the stability of the table.

A bolt is selected for movement hinges in the actuators M8x75, Ring in the actuator is crushed to diameter 14mm, The bolt will then dress a rubber tube, pushed with a washer with a nut. Something like silent block.

After painting we collect everything together. The first attempts to move the design.

Power wires are connected to the actuators. Engine parameters: 36V., current near 1A.. Selected Network Copper Wire 2x0,75kv.mm..

Fresh countertop for fitting.

The rise and the descent of the table tops up down using an external BP.

Complete attachments of actuators were used for the overall design of the bed.

For the movement of the table on the floor, furniture wheels are installed, with free rotation on 360 degrees. Front without stoppers, rear with stoppers.

For the rigidity of the bed, parts of the upper pipes of the actuators were connected by a dug-like plate, with an additional fastening to the lower arc. Plate 40mm. width, 4mm. Thick, bent into the arc of the same pipe bend, the radius is selected by an experimental way, periodically trying on the table. The plate in the case of the inflection can be easily deformed in the opposite direction, which is so easy to do with the profile pipe. To attach to this plate, complete fastening mechanisms for actuators were used.

Table lift control circuit.

The actuators have a "considering" by the rotation by a germ sensor. Those., If you wish, you can add an intelligent control scheme with an angle or lift height. Evaluating the complexity of the task and the rarity of the use of such adjustment, I decided to go primitive - the toggle switch for two positions with two switching groups and the starting start button for each channel of the lifting mechanism.

As a BP - transformers 18 + 18V. (connected consistently 36V. Changes at the output), power 40W.. With these loads that do not exceed the time of operation of 1-2 minutes with the full rise and the descent of the table top, this power is quite enough, at least a transformer and operates in overload. After the transformer diode bridge 15a Which in the process of work is slightly heated. Two condensers 4700MKFH63V., it is possible one. Selected with a slight margin to completely remove pulsations.

Indication of power supply to the outcatter engine - LED, through a resistor 3kom. (for the blue LED, 3mm.).

The design of the console is decorated in a small plastic case.

General view of the table in the almost assembled form.

Checking electronics control and mechanics of hinges.

Hide wires, give everything to the finished form.

For the mounting of the wires, I use reinforced tape, almost in color painting (the shade is slightly distorted in the photo).

The table is completed, in the near future issuing BP in the normal building, the required amount was not available. While a plastic box was used from candy :) to somehow protect against accidental access to the diagram and to the network voltage on the transformer.

Video work of lifting mechanisms selfieckers.

Even the most beautiful and fashionable design of the modern interior can spoil the uneven ceiling, so the first thing to do during the repair is leveling the ceiling surface. For this there are many ways, but for independent work two options are optimal - installing plastic panels or installation of the ceiling of drywall. The second solution gives more opportunities for further decoration. Consider whether it is possible to build a plasterboard design yourself, without attracting assistants from the side.

What to prepare for installation of plasterboard ceiling

Preparatory work for convenience is better divided into several stages. Before starting installation of the frame and cutting the GK panels, you must perform the following steps:

draw up a repair scheme;
calculate the number of sheets, profile, fasteners;
purchase the necessary material;
pick up the necessary tools;
clean the ceiling surface;
mark up according to the scheme.

Designs made of drywalls differ in shape, complexity, light design and decoration

On the usual sheet of paper in the cell, draw the scheme of the room in which you planned repairs. Mark the profile fastening locations, distance between the guides, calculate the amount of consumables. A correctly composed ceiling installation scheme from the plasterboard panels will provide an opportunity not only to save funds allocated for repairs, but also more clearly imagine a plan for further events.

Decide with the purpose - for which the design requires first: for simple alignment or still masking communications. In the first case, it is enough to make a markup at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling, in the second - preferably below to leave enough space for cables, pipes or insulation.

One of the options for plasterboard sheets on the ceiling

Here is an exemplary set of tools needed to cut the metal profile and GLC, as well as the profile attachment to the ceiling, and sheets to the profile:

roulette, level, marker for marking;
drill Il perforator;
hacksaw, logsik or circular;
screwdriver.

For finishing works, a putty, spatula and overtaking for grouting will be required.

Before starting drilling holes under the dowel, it is necessary to prepare a ceiling surface: close the cracks, remove the remains of the old finish, determine the wiring of electrical wires for lighting. If the installation of a standard ceiling from the backlit plasterboard is scheduled, even at the preliminary step, the places of fixture of the lamps should be scheduled.

Green plasterboard sheets - moisture resistant, more durable and thick

Installation of the suspended design from GLC

The construction process of a new ceiling from GLC can be divided into 3 main stages.

1 Stage - Profile Fastening

Initially, the walls along the entire perimeter fix the guide profile. For dowels, it is necessary to drill holes with an interval of 50-55 cm. The ceiling profile insert into the groovers to the grooves using connectors for extension, if the length of the ridges will be insufficient. The distance between the ceiling profile depends on the type of drywall: for the usual, it is quite enough and 60 cm, whereas for a moisture-proof interval must be reduced to 40 cm.

To protect the planks from sagging and make them more rigid, using suspensions. Direct suspensions are securely straight to the ceiling, free ends bend. In addition to long longitudinal rails, we are installed and transverse to perform the installation of brittle drywall on the ceiling with their own hands and on the short side.

Metal profile differs in size and appointment

2 Stage - installation of plasterboard panels

Professionals know several secrets, how to install plasterboard on the ceiling. For example, they recommend fixing the panels so that their joints do not coincide. This means that the first row consists of entire sheets, the second - from the circumcised, possibly the opposite.

Breeping panels to the longitudinal and transverse profile with self-draws, the step between which is not more than 20 cm. In places of docking two sheets, the mount slightly displacing, increasing strength. The main parts will have direct sides: leaf we cut a knife, then lying manually. The complex element is better cut by a jigsaw or hacksaw. Installing panels one after one, cover the entire ceiling.

Screwdriver perfectly suitable for screwing screws

3 Stage - Spike

We perform in two right. First, only junctions and recessed hats of self-tapping screws are put off. To strengthen the seams, we use the sulfyan tape. We wait until it snacks, and the renewable, but the entire surface. Orthodiy eliminating sandpaper or grinding. As a result, we obtain a homogeneous smooth surface of white, ready for primer, painting and further finish.

5 ways to install GCC on the ceiling alone

If you make repairs in a small room, installing ceilings from any type of drywall does not cause difficulties: it is enough to cut the panel into small fragments, lungs and convenient for installation. But in large rooms it is irrational to use pieces of GLC, the process will delay for a long time and the amount of work will increase several times. To mount large sheets to the profile, various homemade designs and fixtures are used to mount the plasterboard panels on the ceiling. Consider how convenient they are for working at home.

1 method - "Two backups"

Perhaps the most convenient option for independent repairs in an apartment with a small work area. From wooden bars and poles, it is necessary to lend two devices for mounting drywall on the ceiling, seemingly reminiscent of the mop. The width of the lower bar is 80-90 cm, the pole centimeters is 8-10 longer than the ceiling height.

The procedure is simple. Put the swab with the crossing up, to the wall, so that the slot remains between the BRAN and the ceiling. In this slit it is necessary to insert one edge of the plasterboard panel. The opposite edge lift up, and then lift to the ceiling prepared in advance by BR. When the leaf is raised completely, the opposite end is also made by the second device. The sheet is pressed to the profile, you can engage in screwing screws.

Elementary devices are used to work alone - backups

2 Method - "Wooden Frame"

From the bars, the frame is laid, the length of which is slightly smaller than the length of the room. To one end, screw the door loops. Loops Breppy under the ceiling, right under the frame of the profile. Thus, one end of the frame is under the ceiling, the other on the floor. We put on the frame of the sheet of drywall and raise up the second end, securing the backup. After that, you can not rush to align the sheet and secure it with self-draws. With a self-made frame, it is easy to install plasterboard on the ceiling one, without someone else's help.

3 Method - "The Principle of Ironing Board"

From thick bars and DSP panels, a device with crossed "legs" resembling a ironing board is roamed. The height of the design can be adjusted by shifting the "legs". The sheet is put on the top panel and raise the ceiling, where they are fixed.

Variants of the lighting device are quite a lot - from exclusive point lamps to elegant chandeliers

4 Method - "Winch"

The design of the device is similar to a regular table, with the difference that a special device similar to a winch is capable of lifting the "table" cover.

5 Method - "Platform on the rollers"

Mobile mobile platform is good for large premises - Gym Go Forest. It moves on the rollers, and on the upper part has rotary racks, to which the sheet is stacked and rises up.

How to lift the sheet of plasterboard

Single-level suspended ceiling of plasterboard - installation lesson

I would like to note that the installation of a plasterboard design alone - the occupation is complex and longer, so at the stage of fastening the panels to the profile it is better to invite 1-2 assistants.

If you have an old dining table that you are roads like memory, or you just want to reasonably save on the purchase of new furniture, then you have to be interested in the quality of the restorer or decorator.

Keep in mind that the restoration of the kitchen table with their own hands is not the simplest and, in some cases, not justified, because not every table is subject to repair, and antiques are better to entrust professionals at all. But most often, the correct "upgrade" can return your old friend to life and transform it to be unrecognizable.

What ways can we update the table?

To update the kitchen table with your own hands, you can use one of the following proven technologies:

Traditional painting - it is this way that we will consider in detail in a step-by-step master class.

An interesting way to decorate and paint furniture is staining through tulle - a tabletop is painted through it, and on the principle of the stencil is formed a lace pattern.

Ceramic tile will allow you to decorate the dilapidative, strongly damaged countertop and make it more practical - you can put hot and soak on this surface in any way.

Refresh the old table in the technique of decoupage. We will also talk about it in more detail about him.

Easy way to modify the table with your own hands quickly and budget - to kill it with a self-adhesive film.
The burning will refresh the non-damaged wooden surface.

Master class - 6 steps on the way to a new life

In this master class on a simple restoration of the dining table, we will update, repair and repaint this old veneered table with a moderate amount of defects.

So, to update the kitchen table you will need:

grinders or sandpaper large, medium and shallow grain, as well as glasses, respirator and gloves;
alkyd enamel paint of the desired color (or other desired coating, for example, a simulator), as well as a flat non-liner painting or artistic brush;
fortress for wood and small roller / brush for priming;
wax pasta or varnish.

Step 1. View and repair the details

Carefully inspect all the attachments in the designs and defects of the countertops - as far as the veneer was smelled or the tree was damaged.

If the table is a bit broken, then you just need to pull out all the screws. If it requires a more serious restoration, then you need to fully disassemble the table, reject all the details or clean and sand all the grooves and places of compounds so that the new glue is better grabbed, fix the glued parts with clamps or screws, and then remove them after 15 hours, and then remove them after 15 hours, When the glue dries completely.

Sometimes a substole requires a replacement not only because its details have dilapidated themselves, but also because the legs will be able to fully change your old table. For example, if before the legs were simple, now you can replace them with beautiful carved bales.
Disassembled furniture, do not forget to mark the installation site of each of the parts, so you do not confuse and quickly cope with the task.

Step 2. Remove the old coating

Now wear safety glasses and prepare 2 kinds of sandpaper: coarse-grained - for primary processing and fine-grained - for giving smoothness. Get ready for long and time-consuming work - to remove the old paint or varnish the case is not simple.

Step 3. Close the cracks and chips

After grinding, we carefully clean the table from dust, inspect the worktop and looking for defects. Keep in mind that even the smallest damage will be noticeable after painting. All chips and cracks should be locally closeing with a putty for a tree or a polyester putty, and then abandon the entire surface again, when "patches" dried.

Note - Wall coating by Morilka:

if the countertop does not have strong damage, then you may not hide the natural beauty of the tree and cover it with a verse, and then varnish, shellac or wax. In the photo below, an example of a renovated table with a tabletop, a moraine in the color "Chojled oak".

Step 4. Ground and spool again

We continue work. Now we need not only to clean the table, but also to degrease it. And after the table is dry, proceed to the primer. This stage is required, since without it, the paint coating will be laid uneven and will be raised quickly. You can use alkyd or shellak primer for wood. In this master class, a universal alkyd primer Zinsser Cover Stain was used (in the photo below), which dries in just 1 hour, protects the tree well and prepares it to paint. It is worth it about 500-600 rubles, but is not sold everywhere. The table can be predicted in 1-2 layers using a small spongy roller, while each layer must dry completely.

When the primer is driving (in 1 day), again stratum the tabletop with a sandpaper or grinding sponge of medium grain to smooth the projected surface and prepare it to paint. And do not forget to put the respirator again!

Step 5. And now proceed to painting.

It is very important to choose the right paint and its color. Avoid cheap paints, because it is a dining table, which means that the countertop must wear frequent wash, wiping, shocking, and so on. In this case, the enamel alkyd paint premium class is used with satin finishes, but you can choose more eco-friendly enamel on acrylic basis. Also with addiction, select a high-quality brush so that it does not learn in the process. Not painful, but a large flat artistic brush.

The paint should be applied in 2 thin layers, while the finishing layer is better to leave to be dried for 3-4 days.

If you chose the dark color of the paint, then it is better to apply in 3 thin layers;
To create crash styles, you can take a sand in some places, for example, on the end of the table;
Also, to create the effect "under ancient", the table can be sent.

Step 6. Apply Protective Coating

As we have already said, you can protect the surface of the table with varnish, for example, matte polyurethane on a water basis (on the photo on the left, great varnish from Varathane). It is necessary to apply it evenly in 2-3 thin layers, slightly squeaking each layer before applying the next layer of varnish. Of course, all layers before the Okurivation must completely dry (4 hours).

The second option is to protect the wax that will make the worktop matte and it can be gratened to shine. For this, the wax must be milded with cotton fabric in wood, then give the first layer to dry for at least 1 hour. After that, polish the surface with circular motions, and repeat the procedure 2 more times within one day. Well, now take patience and leave the table for 1 week so that the surface has acquired the necessary operational properties.

Well, that's all - the restoration is finished, and the old table has gained a new life in a trendy white color.

And here is another interesting video from the transfer of "cheap and angry" on the topic of tabletop restoration at home from the remedies.

Countertop Update With Decoupage

If you do not want to stop there or your table does not have serious damage, but simply needs a small update, you can decorate the table with drawings: to write it with acrylic paints manually, use stencils and stamps, or update the table with the help of decoupage. Perhaps, it is this particularly popular decorative technique that will look at more detail, after all, decoupage will allow not only budget and quickly transform a table or, for example, to stylize it under Shebby Chic (as in the photo below), but also hide some defects of the dilapidated surface.

To update the table with your own hands in the technique of decoupage you will need:

acrylic primer and acrylic paints - if desired;
putty for a beige tree;
grinding and emery paper of varying degrees of graininess;
rubber spatulas;
art brushes flat and artificial;
matte or semi-axle wood varnish;
napkins for decoupage or decoupage card;
scissors;
pVA glue or special decoupage glue.

Decor in the technique of decoupage can be started either after the primer stage and its grinding (see Step number 4 above), or after painting and lacquer. Then you should select a picture - it can be any image on paper or dining napkins, as well as special rice paper for decoupage.

Initially, mark the markup, gently marking the pencil that the images will be located. To the container with water, we put the cut-out paper image "face" down and withstand half a minute. Then the spacious image is laid out as "face" down on a plastic file, and all extra paper layers roll. Then the picture is thoroughly labeled with glue and attached to the tabletop. The file is not removed - through it the image is as smoothed as much as possible.

The surface around the pictures is decorated with paint. The final stage of the decoupage is varnish with acrylic varnish. Through three days, the lacquer dries and the table can be fully used.

Finally, a selection of photos for your inspiration.

The table with your own hands may well be made even a homemade master who does not have any accumulated experience in the joinery craft. Of course, it will be possible if the design of the table will be sufficiently simple and understandable.

For example, find a suitable ready-made table model for a kitchen with overly small dimensions is not always obtained. Purchase to order furniture from the wood array - sufficiently placed. Therefore, it is sometimes necessary to take care of the tools and design your own "work" yourself, pushing out the specific sizes of the place where the table is planned.

In addition, a desire often arises to show their creative abilities in the conditions of giving, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip the veranda or a gazebo of a country site. If there are suitable materials and tools at hand, then you can or sit for drawing up the drawing of the future table, or take advantage of the finished project, and then proceed to work.

To understand which of the types of tables under the power to build with your own hands, it is desirable to consider several options for this subject of furniture.

Tools for work

Before starting work, you must prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.

You can use ordinary, traditional hand tools that have always worked carpenters. This list usually includes:

The plans to be aligned with wood and drive items to the desired size.
The chisels for sampling of various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
Saws of different sizes and modifications that cut thick boards or make minor drums.
Pencil, roulette, corner and ruler.
Screwdriver Set.
Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
Sanding paper for grinding.

Many of the tools can be replaced by more modern and convenient devices:

Electric jigscription will perform all the work for which they used to be used, the various saws mentioned above.

Rating electroballs

The grinding machine will help to make the surfaces even and pulses them to the brilliance, will save from the very tedious handling procedure with emery paper.

Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help rounding sharp corners, drill curly grooves under furniture loops, and if you need a certain experience, you can decorate the table with a relief pattern with it.

Significantly accelerates work, as it will have to spend on the twist of each self-proof for a few minutes. In addition, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills in it with certain operations, for example, in order to process the edge or make a perfectly smooth large or fine hole (groove).

The building level will help make the product smooth and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and skews.

So that the finished furniture does not work out "dashed", the assembly is controlled by the level

Easy in the manufacture of a table for the country area

Make a similar country table - forces to each

Necessary materials

For such a country having a size of a tabletop of 1680 × 850 mm, it will not be necessary for a very large amount of wooden blanks. It is necessary to prepare the following:

Bar, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (Table legs).
Self-tapping screws, bolts and, possibly, metal corners.
Carpentry glue.
Board, size:

1680 × 100 × 25 mm - 4 pcs. (longitudinal framework elements);
850 × 100 × 25 mm - 2 pcs. (transverse framework parts);
1580 × 100 × 25 mm - 2 pcs. (facing boards for the side elements of the frame);
950 × 100 × 25 mm - 17 pcs. (Boards for the table top).

All wooden elements must be processed by the compositions and have a prepared smooth surface. If it is planned to "darken" wood, then it is covered with a verse, and for the manifestation of the texture pattern - on top neatly passed the grinding machine. Sanding paper with small grain will remove the blurred sublime parts of the wood pattern, and they will become lighter than recess.

Installation of garden table

When all parts for the frame will be prepared, you can go to the assembly.

Frame or "Box"

The first step of the work-table framework details are four longitudinal boards of 1680 × 100 × 25 mm and two end 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on the big table or on the floor. On the end boards there is a markup of the location of the internal and exterior boards. Using a ruler, relying on the drawing, the desired distances are measured and the pencil is marked. Be sure to accurately note the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end, especially if the connection is to pass in the insertion method.

The connection of the elements can be carried out in different ways:

Connection with the choice of a "quarter" and using metal corners

- with the help of a steel corner - this is the easiest and most reliable way;

- the method of the insert is a more complex way, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;

Several types of connection on the principle of "Ship-Paz"

- "Paz-Schip" shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a compound is also quite difficult for beginner masters who do not have experience;

- The connection of the wizards is shown on Fenther E) - this method also requires ideal accuracy when marking and drumming the holes in the parts connected.

All compounds are usually carried out with glue. An exception is only fastening the details of the metal corner.
The frame must have perfectly verified direct angles, so after connecting all the elements, you need to control the construction of the construction corner and measurement and comparing the length of the diagonals.
If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and leave it to the complete burden, otherwise they will be connected unreliable.

When the glue is driving, and the frame will acquire a certain rigidity, facing boards are fixed to external longitudinal sides of a size of 1580 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of their attachments also need to be placed, since in their edges there should be a distance for the installation of the legs. Facing boards are also placed on glue and fixed with self-drawing, the hats of which should be dried in wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

The next step is the transverse case of the countertop boards 950 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of consolidation is also needed to first place, starting from the middle of the frame, as they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Table tops over the frame should be 25 mm from all four sides.

Further, each of the boards are fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the extreme boards are also to the end parties. So that the hats of the screws were recessed, for them in the boards, the recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled into a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, the drill of a smaller diameter (usually - 3 mm) through holes are dried, in which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. In order to avoid cracking of boards during installation work, through holes must be drilled.

After that, on the edges of the longitudinal boards, the legs of a bar with a cross section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed, they must accurately coincide with the width of the table top.

The next step - the legs are installed

The legs can be fixed to the frame by self-drawing, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them on the diagonal of the connection site. Through the bolts are drilled through holes, and the twisting of the nuts on them is made from the inside of the frame using the key.
The final stage of manufacturing is seeding with screws of self-tapping screws with a mixture made of joinery or epoxy glue and sawdust. This homemade putty fill the deepening over the hats and well smash. After grazeing the glue all the worktop, and especially the places closed by the "plugs" of the glue, you need to polish well.

After that, the table can be covered with varnish or water-based paint. Waving to dry the decorating or protective layer, the product can be installed in the country gazebo, on the veranda or terrace in the recreation area.

If desired, the set to the table will be easy to make or bench.

Small folding table for kitchen

Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

Its design is arranged in such a way that the countertop cannot work independently if the feet of the table will be condemned, so the table is quite safe for installation in the children's room.
The presence of a bilateral spacious bedside table will allow you to store various trifles and small toys.
The table is equipped with a tabletop of sufficient size so that the child, sitting behind him, could perform homework.
In addition, there will be a place for a laptop on the worktop or the books necessary for studying books.
If necessary, this small table can easily be replaced with an ironing board, if you have a soft tissue on its surface.

Given all the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite the very compact dimensions.

Find out how, as well as familiarize yourself with multiple models with detailed instructions, in the special article of our portal.

Required materials and details for folding table

To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the details from which it consists. The list of necessary blanks is shown in the table below, and how to manufacture them - will be described and shown below:

Scheme of the table with the populated numbers of assembly parts (clickable illustration - click to enlarge)

Details number in the drawing	the name of detail	Number, pcs.	Detail size, mm	Material of manufacture, thickness, mm
1	Folding part of the table top.	1	600 × 600.
2	Fixed table top of the couch.	1	600 × 475.	Multilayer Plywood 25mm Thick
3		2	530 × 30.
4		2	120 × 30.	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
5	Top face detail of the groove, limiting the movement of the leg.	1	122 × 30.	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
6	Element groove for the movement of the leg on the folding countertop.	2	530 × 20.	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
7	The element of the groove for the movement of the leg on the tabletop of the couch.	2	120 × 20.	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
8	Lower end detail of the groove, limiting the movement of the leg.	1	122 × 20.	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
9	Side walls of table stands.	2	720 × 520.	MDF 19 mm
10	Horizontal details of the stands forming the shelves.	3	520 × 312.	MDF 19 mm
11	The lower vertical part of the inner partition of the couch.	1	418 × 312.	MDF 19 mm
12	The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the couch.	1	312 × 184.	MDF 19 mm
13	The average horizontal part of the couch.	1	310 × 250.	MDF 19 mm
14	Door of the couch.	1	477 × 346.	MDF 19 mm
15	Shelf of the couch.	1	310 × 250.	MDF 19 mm
16	Facade cabinet drawer.	1	346 × 209.	MDF 19 mm
17	Front drawer panel (located behind the facade).	1	418 × 312.	MDF 19 mm
18	Side panels drawer.	2	341 × 250.	MDF 19 mm
19	Rear drawer panel.	1	272 × 120.	MDF 19 mm
20	Bottom panel box.	1	341 × 272.	MDF 19 mm
	Handles for drawer and door doors.	2	Ø 30 mm	Wood
	Upper leg element.	1	80 × 80 × 18	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
	Mobile feet of the table.	1	Ø Top 55, bottom 30, height 702	Wood
	Furniture loops for connecting two parts of the table top.	2	Ø 50 mm	Metal
	Furniture loops for the door.	2	The size depends on the form.	Metal
	Bottom end panels covering the lumen under the tab.	2	20 × 300 × 5	Plywood 5 mm

The figures show the drawing of the table to which you can rely on the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single design.

The main sizes of the table (illustration clickable - click to enlarge)

Separate table nodes - retractable box and guide channel for moving legs (Illustration of clickable - Click to enlarge)

For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, modern electrical tools will be required that can bring the workpiece to professional perfection.

Learn how to make with a photo and description in a special article of our portal.

Installation of folding table stands

Start the manufacture of the table stands with the most important and large part of its details - countertops. Since the folding table, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, that which can be thrown down if necessary. In the folded state, this table may well perform the role of a conventional compact standby.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	The first step of plywood with a thickness of 25 mm, using a jigsaw or circular saw, it is necessary to cut the blanks for the table top, the size of 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm.
	Next, the larger panel is marked - the semicircle is drawn up, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct form of the semicircle, you can use a large building circulation, or make it yourself - from the nail, pencil and rope.
	Then, according to the noted, the tabletop curly. This can be done using a jigsaw or circular saw by installing an appropriate zircle nozzle on it.
	Further, the milling machine is set to the cutter of the desired configuration, which will make the edges of the table top smooth, optionally - smooth or rounded.
	The milling part of the panel is treated with a milling part, leaving a smooth one side that will stick with the second part of the table top. The edges are then processed.
	The next step, the two treated parts of the table top are laid on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Marking is made to install furniture loops. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the table top. Furniture loops can have a different form, so they should be put on the marked place and circle with a simple pencil. Then, with the help of a milling mill in the plywood, special curly grooves are arranged, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture loops. In the finished holes of the loops are fixed with the help of self-tapping screws.
	After connecting the hinges of two parts of the table, in the middle of the panels, there is a markup from the bottom side to secure parts that form a closed channel for the movement of the moving feet of the table. Guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the joint of two parts of the table. For the manufacture of parts, plywood is 18 mm thick. Then, cut out of it and processed by a mill of 10 elements: 530 × 30 mm in size - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2pcs, 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 × 20 mm - 2pc., 122 × 20 mm -1 pcs. It is important to remember that long rails must have from one edge, and short elements on both sides of the sections of 45˚ so that when docking, they formed a straight angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts fixed on top of the lower rails of the guides are cut from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These sections are necessary to ensure that their corners do not interfere with the foot of the legs by the resulting channel. Then, to the discharged section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the tabletop are glued with carbon glue parts. First, they are fixed on the glue, and then screwed up the longest rails having a size of 530 × 20 mm, then overlaps the channel part 122 × 20 mm. On top of long and short fixed rivers are pasted by second, having the same length, but large widths are also additionally screwed by self-draws. Thus, a smooth channel forms between the tabletop and the upper rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of spouts of screws in so that the upper does not come across those that fix the lower rails. Similarly, four parts and on the rectangular part of the table top are fixed. All items should be processed before smoothness and perfectly fixed with each other, otherwise the leg when moving will be stumbled on obstacles and jam.
	The leg is usually made on the lathe. If it is not, then it can be ordered to order it at the master or buy in the finished form. As a last resort, you can make it square, processing the timing of the desired height before smoothness. Then, on the upper end part of the leg with the help of a duct and glue is fixed exactly in the center, the guide square plate of plywood, having dimensions of 80 × 80 × 18 mm.
	Next, after drying the glue, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and test for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, you can carry out minor fit and refinement.
	The finished countertop is painted, or is covered with a water-based varnish - if the goal is set to preserve the factory drawing of plywood. After that, the finished countertop is laying aside and go to the manufacture of the couch.
	Elements of the cabinets do not have complex configurations, so it is enough to make them enough on the MDF panel or a thick phaneer to accurately move the dimensions of the parts specified in the table, and gently cut them out them with a jigsaw or saws. After the items are made, their end parts must be processed before smoothness by the milling mill, otherwise they will look inactively.
	If you plan to leave the visible end parts of the details of the chandeliers with a special laminated edge ribbon, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on the inner side has a layer of glue, which is heated under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.
	The next step in the door panel of the cabinets you need to make curly grooves in which furniture loops will be fixed and fixed. The holes are made in the same way as in the tabletop using a millingrer, but in this case the mill can be installed in the screwdriver, since the MDF has a smaller density than glued plywood and is easier to process without material chip. The loop should be located at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before the start of drilling you need to spend thorough markup. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the couch to which the door will be fixed. Then the door of the door is joined among themselves, to check the correctness of the installation and for the holes for the screws for the screws.
	In addition to loops, you can immediately fasten the prepared handle. To do this, retreating the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a convenient position in height, the point is noted through which the through hole is drilled to fix the handle.
	All made parts of the cabinet are painted paint selected color with roller and brush. The paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but also protects the material from the negative effect of a specific kitchen wet environment.
	Next, you can go to the assembly of the bedside tables. Professionals spend this process using special tools, but they can be completely replaced by appliant devices. For example, you can assemble on a flat table, and for the convenience of installing the cabinets, it is additionally installed on smooth bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out with the help of wooden drums, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the last option is the easiest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, hats of self-assembly after assembly will have to mask various compositions. The assembly process occurs as follows: - The bottom panel is laid on the stand. - It is set to it in terms of the level and with the help of a construction corner one of the side panels and its location is marked with a pencil. - And the same is planned on the horizontal and vertical panel the location of the fastening parts. - exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and separation middle wall. - Then, on the marked points of the bottom and end sides of the side panels, holes are drilled to install the waders. - After that, before gluing the parts, the locations are defined on the side walls to install the shelves. Then, in the marked places mounted brackets-shelters for which holes are also drilled. - Next, in the holes, drilled in the bottom, are mounted glued by glue, the side walls are put on the upper, protruding part. - the non-removable jumper shelves are mounted in the same way, simultaneously with the side walls.
	Before you continue to work, you need to make sure that the glue in the collected design is good. In order for the cabinet to stood tougher, it is placed on the side and for the breakdown squeezed by clamps.
	While driving glue, you can take a drawer assembly. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out with the help of a wanking. The lateral sides are assigned to the bottom part of the box, and the line has a pencil, and then marked seats where the sewage will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and on the marked places, the holes are drilled in their end to install fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the wrenches are missing with glue and gently inserted into the holes, connecting the sidewalls with the bottom.
	Bathrooms are twisted with the help of self-tapping screws, the hats of which are recommended to be dried into wood, and the holes should be sealing from epoxy glue and sawdust. Another fastening option can become furniture corners, which are from the inside are screwed to the sidewalls by self-draws. Each of the sides will take two corners.
	Collecting the box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a construction corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise there may be a skew.
	If it is planned to install metal roller guides for a lightweight drawer, then to start on the sidewalls of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet, the place of their attachment is determined. To do this, with the help of a pencil and ruler, the line is drawn, on which the guides will be enshrined.
	Next, the front panel is installed to the front of the box. It is screwed from the inside of the drawer, through pre-placed and drilled holes. Recommended In addition to the screws for fastening the panel, use the glue: it is applied to the front panel, and then the facade is pressed to it, and they are tightened with four-five screws. After grazing the glue in the center of the front panel, the hole is drilled through which the handle is screwed.
	Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the connection of the stands and countertops. The stationary part of the countertop is recommended to first be glued to the surface of the couch, and then fasten it with self-strokes, which are screwed from the inside of the lower cabinets. But first, the countertop must be right. A part of the channel located on the stationaryly installed tabletop panel must be restarted into the side of the couch - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the legs towards the table. The countertop should go beyond the edges of the cutter on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg - 120 mm.
	Securing the tabletop, go to the final installation and screwing on the dormitory of the bedside tables. Then the retractable box is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelves.
	In the closed state, the compact table, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetic. If you wish to decorate it, you can choose other colors that will be better harmony with the interior of a particular room.
	In the open state, the table will also not take much space and perfectly fit into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its "easy" design, it does not waste the interior, and the shape of the tabletop makes it safe for children. Therefore, this option can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If there is a need to save money, or simply there is a big desire to show yourself in joiner's work, then you should not postpone self-making. Moreover, the assembly will become not only interesting and useful, but also very pleasant, especially at the moment when the work will be successfully completed.

For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting version of the round table, which may well serve both at home and in the territory of the site.

Video: An example of a round table assembly

And one more idea of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen table, to realize themselves, which is incorrect, will also be able to skillful owner:

Video: Easy kitchen collapsible design

Country arrangement - the process is permanent. The way to build something, then we are landscaped. Moreover, the furniture is constantly required and the tables are most in demand. And put in the garden, and near the house, and even in. How to make a table for giving your own hands in this article on the example of ready-made projects.

Homemade table from palalet board

The material for this table was the disassembled pallets. Naturally, you can use new boards. Only one condition - they should be dry. You can buy dry (it is more expensive) or buy ordinary, fold them somewhere in the ventilated stacks and to withstand so at least 4 months, and better - six months. In general, any furniture, including, make out of dry wood.

We collect the table for the street - put in the gazebo, because you will not glue the boards, and we will scrape them from below, with the help of planks. This is a very simple country table and very cheap.

Runlying pallets we get board with individual color and pattern. Little entered by shifting several dozen times of them on a different manner, we achieve the result. It turns out quite a pretty tabletop.

We take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the table frame. They are grinding them first by coarse sandpaper, then thin, bring to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).

We take the planks that remained unused, with their help fasten the tabletop. We have them in the place where the butts of the boards are. For the mount of each board with a joint, we use two self-pressing, one-piece one.

From the processed sidewalls and two boards (also polished) we collect the frame of the table. Its parts are secure self-drawing in the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also to "plant" on the self-tapping screw. Only the length is big. Under each previously drilled holes with a drill, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws.

The collected worktop turn over and grind. The same order is first sandpaper with large grain, then with small.

Next - setting the legs. Select four boards of the same size, check their length, adjust if necessary. Then - grinding again. So easier than to grind already screwed legs. Coloring boards screw to the frame. This will be the legs for each one - two self-assembly fixed in diagonal (see photos). For greater stability at the bottom install jumpers. From the floor to the jumpers, you can leave about 10 cm. All connect the screws to the boards, so that the boards are not cracked, the holes are drilled.

Removing the dust, turn lacquer again. In theory, varnish should lie down exactly, but depends on the wood, so it may take another cycle of grinding / painting. As a result, we get such a homemade country table.

If you do not like a variety of planks and traces of old nails, you can make the same design of their boards. This table can be rectangular, maybe square. All sizes are arbitrary - see the existing place.

Country table from boards

This table for giving with your own hands is collected from the remains of boards of different breeds and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm width of 50 mm were on the frame of the table top. We make the frame for the size you need. This table will stand on the veranda, and it has a small width. So we will make it unbroken - 60 cm, and the length is 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (in the family all high).

Immediately cut off the two long boards of 140 cm. In order for the tabletop width to be 60 cm, you will take a double thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm \u003d 55 cm. Fold the frame, watching straight corners, twist the scrolls. We check whether the bars have folded correctly - we are diagonally, they should be the same.

Cut up the board four boards of 80 cm, fed them from the inside to the collected frame. You can 4 screws on each leg.

At about the middle of the height of the legs, the crossbar is fed. This is a frame for a shelf. The shelf can be used for the purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. Breppy strictly under straight corners, checking with a large square.

We put the frame on the floor, check, rushes or not. If everything is done correctly, it should be rigidly standing. Next, we take sandpaper or grinding and grinding.

Start assembling table tops. The boards of different breeds of wood remained from the finishing work, some painted by verse. We alternate the boards of different colors.

Fresh the boards of the tabletop finish nails, carefully finishing them with Dobochnik. On the shelf can be fixed by ordinary nails or self-drawing. Then grindingly farming. The last stage is painting. Very lucky with the choice of varnish. Bought too dark, did not like the appearance. We will have to sand again and paint in other color.

Wooden table with glued table top

This design is distinguished by M-shaped legs. They are going from the boards of the same thickness. In this case, 20 mm. So that they keep well, 5 screws are needed. Pre-drill holes with a diameter of 1-2 mm with a diameter of 1-2 mm. Then the drill of the larger diameter we drill the recess under the hats. The diameter can be selected under the furniture plugs of suitable color or make them from a wooden rod. Another option is to use a wood putty, which add wood dust that remains after grinding. After drying and processing sandpaper traces will find it difficult to find.

When assembling legs, it is necessary to ensure that the angle is exactly 90 °. As a pattern, you can choose a timber. First, the joint of two parts of the legs with a joinery glue, then we install the screws in the following sequence: first two extreme, then medium, and only then two others. After drying the glue legs, we grind, cover with varnish and dry.

It's time to do a countertop. It is assembled from the board of the same thickness. We recruit this size as necessary. You can use fragments of different widths. It is only important that everything is organically looked, and the sidewalls of the boards were smooth and shied without gaps.

The sidewalls selected for the countertops of the boards are melted with glue, lay on a flat surface (some table) and tighten the clamps. In this case, they cost one, but preferably - at least three. We are tightened so that there is no cracks in the resulting shield. Leave one day. After removing the clamps, we get an almost finished tabletop. It still needs to be thawed - align the edges, and then polish. It is possible to trace a jigsaw or ordinary manual saw. Using the grinder is difficult to get a flat line, but you can try. After grinding, we get a beautiful countertop.

By the same technique, you can make an oval or round tabletop. Only it will be necessary to carry out the appropriate line and to trace glued boards on it.

To make the table look more attractive, make a frame. We take a thin bar, process it with sandpaper and fastened around the perimeter of the table top. You can also use finish nails. Only the slats are also pre-wrapped with carpentry glue, and then nails.

After drying the glue again, the connection place is processed by sandpaper.

Now you can mount the feet of the table. We collect from four boards of the frame of the table (no photo, but can be made as in the previous paragraph). It is fastened to the back of the table top for glue, then we install furniture configmatics through the countertop. The confirmation is drilled by a pre-hole with an extension under the Hat. The holes under fasteners are masked the same way as on the legs.

To the fixed frame is dripped legs. They put them inside the frame. Attach can be ordinary self-drawing. All, we made a table for giving with your own hands.

How to make a garden wooden table benches

For this table, the boards 38 * 89 mm were used (decorated themselves), but you can take standard sizes. The difference in millimeters does not affect results. In the photo below, you can see what should happen.

For connecting parts, a stud 16 cm long with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other compounds - with nails with a length of 80 mm.

Parts are installed in place, the drill is drilled through a hole. A stilette is installed in it, the washers are put on both sides and the nuts are tightened. Everything is tightened by a wrench. What is convenient for this option? For the winter you can disassemble and attributed to the barn or garage.

Making seats

According to the drawing, cut the boards of the required size. Everything is necessary in double quantities - by two seats. Plaques are grinding, pay special attention to the ends.

Short segments that fasten three seats boards along the edges of the corner of 45 °. First we collect the design that is attached to the seat below. We take a board with a length of about 160 cm, in the end to her, the two cut boards at the angle. Attach it so that this board is in the middle.

Then to the resulting structural feet of the legs (can be nails). Then add more cuttings at the angle of the board and all tighten with stiletto with bolts.

To the resulting design of the seat boards. Since this is a table for the street, it is not necessary to knock them down. Leave the gap between two neighboring at least 5 mm. You feed with nails to supports (which are cut), two for each board.

The finished seats are fixed using four boards with a length of 160 cm. Each leg is secure with spills (if you go, you can put two studs by setting them into a diagonal or one over another).

Collect a table

The table is collected in a different principle. Note, for tabletops, transverse boards across the edges are spilled at 52 °. They are fastened at such a distance to enter the legs. On each board 2 nails. You can finish, with small hats, and you can score deeply, and then the holes to disguise the smell.

Now it is necessary to assemble legs-crosses. We take two boards, we intersect them so that the distance between their ends was 64.5 cm. We supply the place of crossing the pencil. In this place it will be necessary to remove wood on half the thickness of the board.

We make the same recess on the second board. If they are folded, they are obtained in the same plane. Connect four nails.

Similarly, we make the second feet for the table. While the table does not collect.

Install the table

Now we need to fix the legs to the design on which benches are installed. They put them at an equal distance from the benches, fasten with studs.

Now install the worktop. Its fasteners, too, with spills. The last stage is painting. Here everyone does how he likes.

Variations on the topic

On this drawing, you can make separate benches and a table for the cottage, garden. Design reliable and simple performed.