What is used for sealing slots in the floor. What to close the gaps between the floor and the wall? Choosing materials and recommendations. Video: homemade putty from sawdust and pva

Wooden floor is beautiful and environmentally friendly, but before a certain pore. Namely, while the boards do not get safeguard and gaps will not appear in the floor. How and what to close the cracks in the floor so that it becomes attractive again - this is a whole science.

Often already in a year or two after the flooring of a wooden coating between the boats appear. Boards decrease in sizes in the process of drying. This process is natural and normal, but the result does not make it happy. There is a cardinal solution - to rearrange everything again, on the new simulator shot board and adding a couple of new ones. But not everyone wants or can do it. It seems that it is too difficult. Yes. Not so easy. But other methods of sealing slots are not easier and take less time. But let's figure it out how to solve the current problem.

What to close the small gaps

If the slots are not yet too large - 1-2 mm, you can use the repair formulations that they simply shuffle. For these purposes use:

After such a repair, the floor can be painted. If color is successfully selected, you can cover with varnish. This wax or oil, most likely, will not work - neither a mixture from PVA, nor sealant is touched and will be very highlighted.

Close up of large gaps

When restoration of the old wooden floor, the gap can be half astimeter and more. There are several techniques to solve these problems. The first is all the same bulkhead and cohesion of the boards on a new one. But there is one trick. Old boards around the edge are often deformed. In order not to have problems with rush, carpenters are passing between the board with hacksaw. So the edges are aligned, and two in one pass, and the disadvantages immediately open and can be rejected by strongly damaged boards. For owners of a manual milling, the process can be simplified using a milling cutter.

If the bulkhead is not possible (for example, partitions are installed on top of the floor), there are other options for finding the gaps:

A few words about how to close the gaps using wooden inserts. The gaps have different size, therefore each wedge has to do separately. Long and mutually, and different inserts are not too decorated with the insertion. There is an option to make work easier and, at the same time, improve the appearance. We take the cutter and customize all the slots under one size. If some are too broad, you can make two "caliber" or three. It's still better than plating the wedges for each slot.

In addition to the advantages described above, we remove the cutter from the edges to the old wood, barrel of the fiber. They will better keep the insert, since the wood fibers are smeared with glue raise, connect with the same fibers on the insert. After drying the adhesive, it will be very problematic from the groove. If everything is done correctly and thoroughly, the floor after grinding it already looks good, and if it is impregnated with a verse and put it with a varnish (you can and matte, without shine), it has a very worthy view. Morilka removes the difference in the color, and the lacquer hides the flaws.

Close the cracks so that the eye will rejoice

All these methods are more or less durable, but only if the boards do not bend. If the wooden floor begins, the cracks will not work for a long time. From moving materials, most likely separated. So you first need to make the boards "not walked."

How to eliminate the deflection of boards

If the boards when walking noticeably "play", when mistakes were made. There was incorrectly chopped step lag or too thin boards. So the solution is obvious:

Put additional lags.
Lay thicker boards.

Change the boards or put more often lags - dramatically, but reliably

Both options require to start to disassemble the old floor. This is not always possible. Although, if there is such an opportunity, it is better to do so, but there is a way without a floor parsing.

Sliding boards by shkantikov

To eliminate the deflection of boards, you can turn the flooring into a single surface. To do this, in the board at an angle insert the seasons, which fasten two adjacent boards. Sucks are wooden rods. The hole is drilled in such a way that it passes through two boards. The exact angle of inclination depends on the thickness of the floor, so it is selected at the place. The angle must be chosen so that the layer of wood over / under the sewage was not too thin.

Holes are drilled slightly larger diameter than the sewage. Usually - 5 mm more. For example, under the wanking 8 cm, the drill takes 8.5 mm. Under the wanking 10 mm, the drill is 10.5 mm. Did you understand. What is the hole more? Sucks are sitting on glue. If they go too tightly, give it out. The strength of such a compound will be low. And so, the fibers from the adhesive will scatter, we will go off with the fibers of the wanking. When glue is polymerized (PVA), the connection will become very strong. When trying to break it, wood bursts nearby, and the connection itself holds.

If the boards are walking first to fasten them

The drill must be very long - there are not such thin boards under the tilt. Find this is difficult. As an option - to prigerate the rod of a suitable diameter. Another advice: Make a template that will allow you to save the desired slope without any problems. Without it, difficult. Especially at the beginning. After several hundred holes, it will be possible already without a template to save the specified angle.

Then the hole from the inside and the wanks are missed by glue. For the holes, it will be necessary for the usual glue bottle (in such a stationery PVA is sold) to adapt the long spout of the tube. Tube take about 20 cm, searched at the end. The sidewalls are done holes. Making holes are not too big, so that when pressing the glue splashed around. The technique is clear - the sprayer is inserted into the hole, click on the bottle, the glue falls on the walls.

Mocked in the glue is installed in place. It is left so until the adhesive dry. Then the protruding part of the wooden chopper is cut, slotted slice. Cut the easiest to the grinder, grind - the fact that there is. Manual grinding machine, a plane or all the same grinder or a drill on small revolutions and with an appropriate nozzle.

What to close the gap between the floor and the wall

During the repair in the old residential foundation, removing old plinths, often detect an unsightly picture. Between the wooden floor and the wall we have a solid distance scored by all garbage. Immediately comes the desire to take this gap. It is not necessary to completely close it, as it is needed, but you can decrease.

In general, the production clearance is left around the perimeter of the wooden floor. It should be the size of 1 cm to 4 cm. Depends on the size of the room. You need this clearance to compensate for changes in the size of the boards. But if you leave immediately a big gap, over time, wood dries, the slot becomes too big. For dry wood, it is clearly excess. Moreover, modern plinths have a width of 2-2.5 cm, and the rest cannot be closed. Unless to make to order. This is also a way out, but you can go to another.

The gap between the wall and the floor can be significant

The gap between the boards and the floor can be reduced by inserts from wood. From the dry boards of the same thickness that you are put on the floor. You can put insert, but between it and the wall must be left 1-1.5 cm.

If the edge of the floor is uneven, it will be necessary to cut the board, firing. There is a hand mill - it's easier for you. No - with hacksaw. After the edge was fired, you measure which insert thickness you need. Do not forget that there should be a free space of 1-1.5 cm. Of the dry boards of suitable thickness, cut the desired insert width. You can rinse them to the beams on which the floor lies.

How to fill the technological gap

The technological gap between the wooden floor and the wall must be necessary. But the emptiness will contribute to hearing, which is not always pleased. Alternatively, you can install foam polyethylene or suitable thickness (it is 10 mm and 8 mm). Polyfoam and polyurethane foam in this case, though heavily cheaper, but here they will not help. The wood is constantly "walking," the material will join, then to let him go. Polyethylene foamed and damping tape are compressed under load, and after its removal is restored. Polyfoam and polypropylene squeezing, and remain. So there is no point in them.

You can use not a damper tape, but a special elastic cord from foamed polyethylene and sealant. This solution is better for sound insulation. Cord from foamed polyethylene is used to fill dams (compensatory seams). Its diameter -1-1.5 cm. You choose which you need. There should be no cord from the surface itself, but just below - at a distance of about 1 centimeter from the edge of the board. Since the floorboard is usually not less than 28 mm thick, it may be necessary to "stand". Here you can use polystyrene foam. It will only support the cord. Cut on the bands of the desired size, lay in the gap. From above - cord.

A sealant for wood is applied over the cord. Choosing the Composition, pay attention to the elasticity after drying. Sealant layer thickness - no more gap width. Better - less. Otherwise, he will lose his elasticity. After applying, it is necessary to form a surface or as in the figure - concave, or - convex. So the sealant preserves elasticity longer and it is better stretched / compressed. This relief is formed by any movement of a suitable form. Although the nail in the glove, even a stalk spoons or forks.

Now you know not only how and what to close the cracks in the wooden floor, but also how to eliminate the boards of the boards, how to close the gap between the boarding gest and the wall.

Wooden floor - decoration of any house. However, a tree is a fragile material that requires constant care and over time can lose its qualities and attractiveness. Due to the long-term operation, the floors from the tree begin to creak, the boards can refuse, the slots appear, and the coating has to be repaired. The sealing of the gaps in the wooden floor is a painstaking case, but easily fulfilled and die even a person who does not have special skills. There are several options to bring the floors in order and thereby extending their service life.

Condemno repair of wooden floors can be divided into three types:

Full, which includes dismantling the former coating and the bulkhead of the flooring;
Partial - does not require a complete dismantling;
"Cosmetic" - sealing the slots in the wooden floor.

The first option is the most time consuming. It is necessary in cases where the lags of the crates are damaged to which the floor board is on. With the help of scrap and hammer with a nail-container, a coating is dismantled. The boards are carefully examined for the availability of defects, the copies that have come into disrepair should be replaced with new ones. If necessary, lags are subject to replacement. After that, the floors shake again. Boards are adjusted to each other close and fixed on the lags. After repair, perhaps the differences in height will appear. Aligns the floor with the plane.

If damage to the boards are local in nature, then the complete dismantling is not required. If there are wide gaps between the boards, it is enough to remove the flooring in the right place and lay a new one.

Replacing part of a wooden flooring in a photo

With neat operation and timely care of the wooden floor, you can do with cosmetic repairs and only close the gaps. This work can be performed in various ways. The choice of the method depends on the causes of the appearance of the gaps, the place of defects and their size.

Rake or Wedge

One of the most common and efficient ways to get rid of the gaps in the floor of the tree - the use of rails. Their advantage is that the rails, pre-missing glue, are very flexible and therefore they are easy to score. Consider the repair by this method.

Cutter handle the slots between the boards, drive the wrenches.
From dry pine boards make rakes of the desired size. For example, for a slit of 8 mm will be 7.5 mm. Reiki must have a fascinated book form like a wedge.
Apply glue on the rails and cracks.
Insert the rails and beat them with a Cyan or a conventional hammer, putting a bunch on top of the rail. If there are minor defects, they can be sharpened with a mixture of sawdust and PVA.

Sealing slots using wedges

After drying the adhesive composition, pollute the surface with the help of a grinder with sandpaper.
Disguise the traces of repair. To do this, it is necessary to stick a paint tape along the board so that the joke is impaired, and then apply the sampling (or selected in the tone of paint) and varnish.

Visual Scheme Racing Between Boards

Glue with sawdusts

Repair wooden floors can also be used with glue mixed with sawdust. There are two options here: prepare a mixture of glue and sawdust or add more cement.

Option One:

Pour boiling water sawdust shallow fraction and mix thoroughly.
Leave a mixture to swell on one or two hours and mix again.
Add to sawtresses PVA or joinery glue and knead the mixture to the same.
Clean the gaps from dirt and dust. If necessary, the upper part of the gaps can be expanded.
Apply an adhesive mass on the slot and tamper inward. Split the mixture and remove excess.
After drying the glue (it will take 48-72 hours) pollute the gaps of sandpaper or bother with a special tool.

Option Second:

To knead the glue. To two parts of the glue, add 15 parts of hot water and mix until uniformity. Then add five parts of cement and five parts of sawdust. Stir and give the solution to strengthen for 10 minutes. The mixture can be immediately given the desired color by adding a thick oil paint or coloring pigment into it.
Clean the slots in the floor and smear them with glue, which was used to prepare the mixture.
The mass itself must first warm and then quickly close the gaps between the floorboards, aligning the surface with the spatula.
After 14 days, when the applied mass is completely dry, align the surface with abrasive materials.

Homemade putty for sealing small slots and cracks: a mixture of sawdust and glue PVA

This method is applicable not only for sealing the slots in the floors from the tree, but also for aligning the surface of the floors.

Other repair methods

Those who have no time or desire to bother with mixing of the adhesive solution can take advantage of the simplest ways of sealing the gaps. For example, you can buy in the store putty on a tree. However, it should be noted that, firstly, this method is applicable if the gaps in the floors are small, and secondly, the repair will not be durable, since the putty has a property with time cracking and crumble.

Main Methods for Cosmetic Wooden Floor Repair

One of the cheapest ways to get rid of the gaps between the boards - with the help of paper, alee and copper mood. How it's done?

Small pieces of paper pour water and give to spill.
Prepare from flour (starch) and water Clauster.
In a warm holister add copper cunery in a ratio of 1:10.
Squeeze the paper mass, grind it and add to the holter. Mix the mass thoroughly. As a result, it must have a homogeneous, thick consistency.
Clean the gaps from dust and dirt.
Mail with a mass of the gap, moving the surface.
Align the surface with abrasive materials.
After drying the composition of painting the floor.

Repair wooden floor can also be repaired using a cord. So you can not only close the gaps, but also the flooring. For work, you will need a cord on the width of gaps, sawdust, putty and joiner and pva.

Cheat with glue cord.
Mix glue, sawdust and putty.
To lay the twine in the crack so that the distance between it and the surface of the floor was not more than 4 mm.
Fill this distance to the prepared mass. From above, there must be a small surplus, as the mass, gradually hidden, "sits".

Shock shoe circuit

If the floor spray mouse

If the house has mouse, they can bother the floor, and the gap will appear. The above-mentioned sealing methods cannot do here, because an unpleasant story may repeat. To prevent it, the slots must first fill the cement and broken glass mixture. After that, the gap is closed with a putty (you can use the shop or independently prepare the mixture). Then the place of repair is burned and covered with paint.

For better sealing instead of cement and broken glass, a concrete solution with an aluminum crumb can be used.

In addition to the described methods, close the cracks between the floorboards there are many others. The most modern ones, according to professionals, is considered to use sealants on silicone or acrylic basis, which are designed specifically for wood work. If you have something to add written comments!

Wooden house - safe and eco-friendly housing with a special cozy atmosphere. Wood preserves the warmth, fills the house with a pleasant forest aroma, is distinguished by high strength and durability. This is an aesthetic and attractive material that will harmoniously fit into the landscape and will create any design.

However, the tree has a number of disadvantages, among which exposure to the negative impact of moisture, torsion and drying, shrinkage. As a result, slots appear on the log and on the bar, as well as between the materials.

Cracks and cracks in a wooden house

In the process of shrinkage at home and due to strong temperature drops, the lack of proper insulation and waterproofing on wooden materials and cracks appear between them. To avoid this, it is important to carry out wood processing even during construction.

The log and the bar are covered with antiseptics after the manufacture of sawn timber, when assembling a log cabin and when completing the work on finishing. In the future, the wooden house also requires care. Protective processing is carried out once every 3-6 years, depending on the type and quality of antiseptic agents.

In this case, it is very important to carry out competent and reliable insulation of a wooden house, as it protects the timber and a log from strong cracking. In addition, you need to choose products with a good drying.

Masters of the construction company "Marisrub" independently make a bar and log, carefully track each stage of production. We use a safe and high-quality chamber drying that prevents tree cracking. Be sure to process lumber protective compositions!

If the gaps and cracks appeared, the defects need to be eliminated. They reduce the thermal insulation properties of the house, as a result of the wall or floor will be bludging, drafts will appear indoors. In addition, cracks strongly spoil the aesthetic appearance of the house. In the future, the gaps grow and exacerbate these problems, negatively affect the condition of the sawn timber. Therefore, it is important on time and correctly eliminate defects.

Types of slots

Longitudinal slots and cracks are formed on a bar or a log, as the tree has a fibrous structure. But in rare cases, longitudinal defects are formed due to overload or rotting wood. With this problem, the affected areas need to be replaced. The longitudinal cracks can be eliminated independently with the help of light methods.

Longitudinal cracks in structure and direction are the following types:

Direct coincide with the axis of a log or bar;
Spiral or uneven do not coincide with the axis;
Segment - uneven defects with fiber transition.

It is possible to close the gaps and cracks with the help of mounting foam, pacles and moss, putty or sealant, self-made compositions regardless of the type of defect. Note that the mounting foam and silicone is better not to use for a wooden house, since synthetic means violate the environmental friendliness and safety of the tree. After such treatment, the log or bar will not be able to "breathe". In addition, such compositions often distinguish a harmful toxic smell. Let's consider in more detail than and how to close the gaps in a wooden house.

How to close the gaps with horseradish

Konopka effectively insulates the house and closes the resulting gaps, reliably closing cold access to the room. Moss and palable are traditional materials for the insulation of a wooden house and for sealing gaps that distinguish environmental friendliness and safety. They will not disturb the naturalness of the wood and the aesthetics of the structure.

Before use, you take wet moss and completely dried, and then half an hour before the start of work is soaked in water. Then the water is drained, the moss is squeezed and rolled into the rollers. The rollers are laying in interventic joints, gaps and cracks, are sealing with a hammer or a queen and leave to dry for three days. After drying the excess material is cut.

Instead of MCH, you can use the pass or jute fiber, which is stacked in the joints and cracks. Purchase is poured with plaster or cement or left in pure form. The quality of cacopa can be checked with a nail, a knife or sharp selay. The product is sticking between logs or timber. It should not pass through! Read more about the pantry of a wooden house read.

How to close the gaps with sealant

The elimination of cracks and cracks with sealing is the most common way due to the availability and ease of installation. Sealants firmly combine the walls of the tree break. So that the tool does not fall on the wood surface, boil the edges of the gap with a painting ribbon. Then in the slots and interventic joints are laid harness from packle or jute or a cloth for sealing. And on top there are sealant with a spatula or pistol.

When applied sealant seams, joints and cracks are not completely filled to the edges. The composition is applied so that it comes into contact at two points of the tree and connected two opposite edges. The sealant leave at least six o'clock, and after the frost, the sealed gaps are painted for more aesthetic species.

If the remedy during the work still hit the clean surface of the log or timber, after drying, remove it shallow emery paper. Masters of the company "Marisruz" qualitatively and promptly perform the sealing of a wooden house, which ensures reliable hydro and thermal insulation, and also warns the drying of wood and the appearance of cracks or cracks.

The most optimal means for the wooden house will be acrylic sealant. This is an environmentally friendly and safe remedy. It is not afraid of temperature drops and damp, reliably fastens the walls of wood and eliminates cracks or cracks. For a wooden house, a silicone sealant cannot be used due to harmful composition. In addition, such material can not be painted, and it will spoil the appearance of the tree. The most popular are such brands like neomide and Eurotex Russian manufacture.

How to sharpen slots

It is possible to close defects with the help of a finished putty for the tree, which is distinguished by the resistance to cold and dampness. She dries quickly and holds long. For minor cracks, choose a thick water based product, as it hits well with a tree. For deep defects - liquid compositions with solvent content. Today you will find a wide selection of putty.

Acrylic is the most secure remedy without smell and color, which is suitable for cracks with a depth of 2 mm. It retains a natural texture and shade of wood, easily applied and dries quickly. Acrylic putty aligns the surface and does not miss moisture. For internal works also use a gypsum composition. This plastic material with a slight application. It supports a comfortable microclimate and is absolutely safe for a wooden house.

The waterproof putty is suitable for sealing cracks outside the cut, as it is distinguished by increased resistance to moisture and damp, to precipitation and temperature drops. The composition is made in the form of paste based on glue, oils or polymers. The polymer remedy masks cracks, seams, joints and suitable for finishing finish. Adhesive putty is easy to apply on a tree and is characterized by high strength. And the oil base is used when they plan to further coating wood with oil, paint or varnish.

If deep slots and chips appeared in a wooden house, choose a non-shock putty. It is a high-quality, reliable, durable and durable composition, which is perfect for a cut. You can easily pick up the color of the tree under the color of the tree. The most popular are putty firms Tikkurila, Euroteks and Extra.

Other ways of sealing slots

You can not buy a putty, but make a smear on your own. To do this, mix the glue of PVA and sawdust to a thick state and with the help of a spatula fill the slots with a mixture;
To close the wide gaps, use the chips of the same length as the defect. The wood is sharpened by the wedge and clog the crack, fasten with a putty or self-made smear;
Arbogils is another tool that is used to seal the gaps in a wooden house. It contains dry gypsum and crushed boring or sawdust in a ratio of 1: 3. It turns out a durable and reliable composition that is diluted with water in the amount of half of the gypsum taken. Elastic and dense mass is stirred to homogeneity and dissolving lumps. For greater plasticity and elasticity, you can add a little shampoo to the medium. Close up the slit freshly prepared mixture, as it quickly freezes.

Whatever the way you do not have chosen, before work you need to carefully clean the bar or log walls, as well as cleaned the gaps from garbage and dust. Close defects are better in the positive temperature, in dry weather and dry wood. After a moss of moss, the walls are left to dry for three days, when working with other materials - at least six o'clock.

Wooden floor is beautiful, warm and environmentally friendly, but during operation it can bring a lot of trouble. One of these problems can be a gap. To solve this question, you need to figure out how it is possible to close the gaps in the wooden floor.

When necessary

The sealing of the gaps in the wooden floor may be needed in various situations, the reason for which one is drying the boards:

if the floor creaks;
when repairing and replacing the floor covering;
if an apartment flooded;
violation of the technology of laying boards.

Drying of the boards is one of the most frequent causes of the formation of slots.

These are not all options, but the most common. In any case, if serious repairs are carried out for any reason, it will be necessary to eliminate the slots in the floor with your own hands.

Ways to eliminate gaps

There are a lot of options that will help cope with the problem. The choice depends on the design features of the floor, available materials and type of flooring:

the use of construction foam with foam (suitable for eliminating gaps between the wall and flooring);
the use of sawdust mixed with adhesive composition;
putty on a tree;
composition consisting of clays and pieces of paper;
sealing with a cord;
relief and wedges;
tow;
a mixture of epoxy glue with cement;
thick oil paint with sawdust;
plywood sheets (for complex cases, when a lot of cracks were formed in the floor);
sealant seal.

Depending on the complexity of the situation, you can use any of these options. Next details about the technology of the most common ways.

Before starting work, you need to clean the surface of the boards from dirt, dust and garbage.

You can handle the wood by an antiseptic. This will extend the service life and protect from damage by various microorganisms. After that, you can fill or put the slots.

Construction foam

It is used for the perimeter of the room. Works behave in the following order:

remove the plinth, clean the surface from dirt and dust;
if necessary, they are placed in the slice of a piece of foam;
fill the space of the slot foam;
survise the drying time and cut out surplus;
next you need to sharpen the surface;
after the putty dries, install the plinth.

A universal solution for the repair of a wooden floor is a construction foam - it is not drawn, does not give a shrinkage

Sawdust with glue

Suitable for sealing in any places. Performed in the following order:

A mixture of sawdust with glue must have a consistency like a thick sour cream

small sawdust in a convenient container is poured with boiling water and stirred to a homogeneous mass;
the time will wait for swelling and cooling, stirring;
added to the mixture of glue composition (PVA or carbonate) and stirred thoroughly;
apply the composition to the coating with a spatula and tampering inwards without effort;
the composition is smoothed and clean the surplus;
drying time - 2-3 days;
after drying, grinding or cyclove coating.

There is a second embodiment of the composition - with the addition of cement. It is prepared as follows:

2 parts of the glue are mixed with 15 pieces of warm water;
the solution add 5 parts of cement and 5 parts of sawdust;
the mass is mixed and insisted 5-7 minutes.

Use such a composition is preheated. The disadvantage is a long time of complete drying due to the presence of cement (about 2 weeks).

Putty

Suitable for small slots. It is best to apply as a preparatory stage before the flooring of plywood. Disadvantages - short-life, cracking and scattering. It makes it easy to prepare a mixture without complex operations. Work is carried out in this order:

prepare a solution and tool - a narrow rubber spatula;
the putty is applied to the surface of the joints, while it must be treated in the slot;
drying composition;
alignment using abrasive processing tools.

Putty quickly eliminates the gaps, but over time again requires floor repair

The putty do it yourself allows you to quickly get rid of the gaps, but soon the repair may again.

Relief and Kliniev

Stages of work:

preparation of rails, narrowed at the bottom and coinciding in size with a slit;
rake processing and gap glue;
inserting the rail to the gap, clogging with the help of rubber hammer or ordinary, but through a wooden board;
if necessary, after drying the glue, the plane remove the protruding part of the wedges and the rails;
align the color of the floor with a mourn or staining.

Repair of the floor with the help of rails and wedges

Seeling pakrels

Material is treated with adhesive composition. After that, the pass into the gaps. After the glue dries, you can paint the floor into one color. The material is made of flax, so it has a high degree of environmental friendliness and safety.

Suitable for wide slots if the floor is badly damaged and needs to be gained. In this case, it is not perfectly used the sealing of individual gaps. Plywood allows you to work with minimal labor costs.

The process of laying plywood

Procedure:

If necessary, a putty is applied as a preparatory stage. You can make only individual flaws. Putty will increase repair reliability.
Perform layouts of plywood sheets on the floor, Will sheets under the required dimensions.
Fixing performed on self-tapping screws. In this way, you can quickly close all the available floor flaws.

Sealant

For work, the compositions are selected on acrylic or silicone basis, designed to carry out works with wood. Dignity is the lack of the need to prepare complex compositions and ease of application. Packaging Sealant usually has a convenient shape and nozzle-syringe, which is easy to fill all the slots.

The sealant has a convenient shape and nozzle-syringe, which will easily fill all the slots

It does not matter which method is used to eliminate the problem, putty, other formulations or materials, you need to comply with technology and carefully prepare the surface of the floor. This will allow to postpone the term of the next major repairs of the floor.

Eco-friendly, warm floor of a clean tree was and always remains out of any mod or trends. All in it is good - and design, and comfort, and practicality. But there is one "but" - gaps. Their education is perhaps the most significant lack of any wooden floor. First of all, the cracks in the floor are worried about many in that it is cold. It is inevitable if the foundation under the floor is ventilated through external products - through them just frosty air, which is simply dragged into the room. Even bad slits in the wooden floor in that they are clogged with everything that can be dirt, dust, organic matter. This not only gives the surface an inesthetical look, but it turns out to be a detrimental and for the boards themselves - they can start grew.

But the problem is quite solved - just pick one method or method that you will be easier to apply.

Find out the reasons and solve the problem

But look at the source of the slots first, from which we will be repelled.

Cause number 1. Wood drying

It is clear that any wooden boards dry out with time - and this is the first, and the most common cause of the appearance of the gaps. In this case, then it is better to purchase boards that are treated at the plant by the method of "vacuum drying" when intracellular moisture is completely removed, and impregnation should be impregnated. With such material about the drying, you can not worry.

But the usual wooden floor dries from three to six years. And the most problematic in this plan is pine - it is necessary to shift it three times three times, and only after that you will have a normal floor that you can cycle. That is why, if the floorboard is still in good condition and, in fact, still dries - beat the floor. You will be surprised, but after the shrinkage you suddenly can enter a few more extra beds!

Something similar happens when working with eurodosks. And then, when you are pre-acclimatized the boards themselves, and there should not have problems, but equally, even with the power pressed, there are up to 0.5 mm cracks between the boards. In this case, even before grinding, it is necessary to shake such openings with a mixture of PVA glue, sawdust and paint, and it is a rubber spatula, then pass it away and remove it too much.

Cause number 2. Dry air

Put next to the heating radiaries with water, and follow the behavior of the slots throughout the day. If those have become noticeably less - in your house just too dry air. And if you run the entire floor now and hide the boards as close as possible, then in the summer they will argue and go "waves." Therefore, for greater confidence, purchase a hygrometer - moisture meter, and check the air to this parameter.

For example, for example, we note that the sleeved air is bad and for health, and therefore should be thought about the sprayers and other devices that can solve this problem.

Cause number 3. Small rodents

If the gaps arose due to the active activities of mice - they just close them. After all, new! Therefore, first get rid of rodents or maximally control their population, and only then we work with the slits. How to get rid of? Here are some ways:

Take a good cat. It is a cat, cats, in nature, more lazy. And it will be enough that the mice are learning the smell of the hunter - now they will not risk tearing their way there, where such a danger, and peacefully remain under the floor. The ferrets are afraid even more, by the way.
Arrange glue mousetrap - if there are too many mice, and they started it, then this method is good as a mechanical decrease in the number of rodents.
Scatter under the floor dry pepper mint - animals strong smells do not like.
Purchase a modern ultrasonic repeller. Only a good device, and not a cheap Chinese fake, from which there will be no sense.
There is also such an effective way: sealing gaps cement mixed with broken glass. Small uninvited guests do not like it, believe me.

To completely be expelled from the house of rodents, like bacteria, it is impossible. But make housing as clean and safe full possible.

Cause №4. Montage errors

Sometimes slots arise from the fact that the boards are "walking." And this is a direct consequence of improper installation. And, if the boards "walk", then even the best sealant will break away - it will remain just with one of the sides. It all depends here on how the floor "tightly" is immobilized. If the maximum - no putty in the cracks will not crack, but if the boards are a little bend a little - then it is necessary.

And to not "walked" the boards, and the sealants in the cracks did not break off, bring them to lagham - ordinary nails, but at an angle.

Cause №5. Violation of ventilation

The slits of this kind arise from the fact that the wood is simply turning into a duch. Be sure to fully inspect the wooden floor - in what condition is it? Perhaps the top is still solid, and below all the boards rotted. In this case, only overhaul with a complete cordon, and nothing else.

If you can correct the situation, then act as follows:

If the cold do you have from under the floor, and even the low-challenging gaps are passed to the draft, in this case it is better to close the products themselves tightly (which is increasingly and more often do it), to carry out a vent hole through the room itself (there is special lattice , And leave the small distances between the boards alone until spring when they are strung.

But, if the lags just seen a little, do this:

Pay attention also to such an important point. If you have the only ventilation underground - through the slots in the floor, then closing them completely, you will make the boards rot. Just explore first, do you have a product or ventilation grille. After all, it often happens that the townspeople buy themselves in early spring cottage with wooden floors, and by the summer they are already being defeated when walking - just the former owner closed the resulting for winter, which is technologically correct, and no one has opened them in the spring. And the boards, as they say, "suffocated." And raw basements also love earthen fleas, which in winter easily pop up in a residential premises.

If your underground is not ventilated through the foundation or a special system of air inflow system, then in the corners of the floor, make ventilation holes. Otherwise, dampness and quickly rotting wood will be provided, because before that your floors had small or noticeable gaps between the boards, where the necessary air arrived, and now you will chain them. If the underground is too cold, and you are worried about the heat insulation of the floor, insert ventilation instead of corners, organize through the foundation.

But sometimes, when the board managed to spoil and the gaps made itself felt, it is necessary to replace the whole section of the floor:

We use modern means

The choice of such funds today is huge!

Means number 1. Special putty

Let's say frankly: factory wipers for cracks - not the best option. First, they are often cracked, and secondly - the number of colors is limited, why the seams then stand out on the floor. Although some relate to this point quite optimistic - after all, it turns out a good imitation of decks.

Means number 2. Silicone sealant

Wood - material alive, and therefore the fillers for the gap should also be elastic. Sealants for wood today are sold mainly two species - acrylic and silicone.

Use silicone sealant for sealing slots correctly:

We carry out a thorough dry, and then wet cleaning of surfaces.
Well dried by floor.
Fill all the slots.

For the convenience of administration of sealant, use the mounting syringe - not only the material saves, but also the ability to get the most hard to reach places.

Means number 3. Acrylic sealant

We buy a special sealant for wood. It is sold in all modern construction stores, in special tubes and the most different color. One of the best brands is Kimtec Laminat. This sealant has a well tolerate moisture and temperature drops, it is easy to grind and lacquered. Good reviews are also about Sikaflex-11FC sealant - even with expansion up to 200% of the thickness of such a cracking, no cracks arise, no breaks.

Unlike silicone sealant, acrylic does not smell with vinegar, absolutely transparent (it is water-based), and is well washed away from the hands.

Means number 4. Pistol with mounting foam

On his spout, put on a thin tube from the cocktail, flatten it and so shove into the gap. Squeeze the tube is comfortable simple passage. Adjust the gun on a weak feed. Work quickly, because Foam quickly freezes, and it is better to have several such tubes with you. If the gap is too narrow, and there it does not even go there, then just leaving it to the hole. Press the foam is needed flat object - wet broken bar. Do not worry about environmental friendliness: the dried mounting foam does not release anything into the air.

Only, in no case, do not try to remove it with a spatula of still raw - everything around everything is flawed, and it will be difficult to wash it difficult. Just after drying, gently cut the sharp knife. But even dry she is sufficiently sticky and porous, the whole dirt will be stretching to it. In addition, the foam is destroyed from sunlight, and therefore be sure to fill such slots in several layers.

Mounting foam as a material for sealing the slots is also good in that it creates additional thermal insulation.

Means number 5. Reinforced Scotch

If the aesthetic moment is not important, or on the wooden floor - carpet, then just close the gap with a gray reinforced tape, 5 cm wide. Secure it along the edges of the stapler, and you can forget about drafts or smells.

We use proven "grandfathers" methods

But there are older, but the methods proven with centuries. Each of them has their pros and cons, but sometimes such simple solutions are more effective than modern means.

Method number 1. Rail

Close the large slots in the floor can also be as well as rail:

Step 1. Cutting the gap with a milling manual machine so that their edges become smooth.
Step 2. Cut the rails that are suitable for the desired dimensions. As for the wood material, the most convenient for you will work with a pine - it is sufficiently puffy.
Step 3. With glue by lubricating the edges of the gap and the Boca Rake. Use for this tank from under the sealant.
Step 4. Fix the rail in the slot, and the voids that remained, fill in the adhesive mixture with wood sawdust.
Step 5. Grind the boards with an electric belt machine. Be sure to wear a respirator and glasses, close the respiratory organs.
Step 6. According to the treated boards glue a painting tape that hides the joint.
Step 7. We select the paint or varnish the desired tone and disguise, thus, the entire recovery process.

Method number 2. Homemade putty

You can make a good putty for cracks yourself. Purchase the composition based on the binding resin, and collect small sawdust. Mix all this, and the resulting component make a slot.

For this purpose, resin OSMO is also suitable, but the reviews about Barm are not the best - those who tried to close such a binder, complained about a strong unpleasant smell and a small amount in the packaging of the means itself.

Method number 3. Ordinary harness

The gaps that do not exceed one centimeter, easy to close the harness. Next, fill it with the same red or varnish as the floor itself. Everything is simple.

Method number 4. Glue with sawdusts

But the "Dedovsky" way to mix the PVA with woody dust is bad because such a putty darkens over time and looks inaccurately.

Method number 5. Pacle with paint

We take the usual pass for fixing compounds Plumbing pipes, mix with PVA glue, lay in the gap and cover paint.

Method number 6. Oil with wax

Small gaps are covered with flaxseed with wax, it is definitely hot - so the wax is crushed into cracks. The only requirement - the floor before such works should be perfectly clean, otherwise, along with the wax in the gap and dirt will be born.

Method number 7. Plywood and slabs chipboard, ox

In very bad cases, when the slots are huge, simply clog their wood plugs and lay a layer of wood-puffled plate or Phane. Only on top of all this it will be possible to fit the finish decorative coating.

A little more about the process itself. Fasten Phanera Samores with plastic dowels. And so that the plywood is not deformed in places of fastening of the self-tapping screws, it is necessary to make holes in it and treat them with a large diameter drill. As an option - zenker. This will allow mounting the screws "Woven", clove with the surface.

Self-tapping screws get a long 90 mm, and a couple of pieces of 120 mm for fastening the lag to the floor herself, and a 36 mm self-tapping screw - for sheets. Carnat the Phaneur on the lags can also be on "liquid nails", and fix it with nails.

Sections of the crates can fill in any heat insulating material, except mineral wool. Leave the slots - if plywood sheets will touch with each other, in the future you cannot avoid a violep. Carefully also twist the screws - "drowned" caps often end in the fact that the self-tapping screws themselves break, and slips appear around the caps. See the process itself in more detail:

Method number 8. Bustylate with ropes

This method is not bad for the biggest slots that are difficult to fill even with a sealant.

Method number 9. Wood dust

Another "Dedovsky Method" - wood dust mixed with a lacquer for the floor. It is not easy to assemble her, but the result will definitely please.

Method number 10. Cord

This method is one of the fastest and reliable:

Step 1. Mix the epoxy mixture with a hardener in the proportion of 1: 1.
Step 2. The resulting mixture is added to the cement solution.
Step 3. Fill it with a mixture of the gap so tight, as far as possible - so that then everything does not spoil the shrinkage.
Step 4. Take a rope cord into wide slots.
Step 5. As soon as the mixture is freezing, which will happen quickly, cover it with paint or varnish in the floor tone.

If the slab overlap is uneven, then under the lags it is necessary to put the bins, and on them - the segments of the linoleum or rubberoid. On one wooden stands of lagows can not be described - there must be compensators, because The tree is subject to temperature expansion.

That's the whole collection of methods - choose the one that seemed to you the most simple and rational.