The slab fence is beautiful. An original do-it-yourself slab fence. Installation of support pillars

Everyone who lives in their home understands the role that fencing plays. Any owner would like him to be as reliable, durable as possible, and, of course, beautiful. However, it often happens that there is simply no money left for the fence and you have to be content with what you have. But, as you can imagine, this is not a way out. After all, there are materials from which, relatively inexpensively, you can make a beautiful, durable and inexpensive fence. One of these materials is the croaker. Moreover, you can make a do-it-yourself slab fence, and this is an additional savings.

What is this material? This is lumber, which is the side of the log. One side of it is sawn, and the other is not. In fact, this is waste from sawmilling, most often it can be used to kindle the furnace. But don't be in a hurry! This material can make a great fence!

Croaker - waste or useful material?

First, let's see how you can get a blank for a fence from sawmill waste and what kind of building materials and tools will be useful to you.

Buying a croaker is as easy as shelling pears. To do this, you can contact any sawmill. It is best to order it a little more. The fact is that during the construction process several boards may not be enough.

After that, first calculate how many support pillars you need, calculating a pillar for every 2-2.5 meters. You will also need ropes that will outline the future fence between the posts. Cement, sand, gravel and a shovel will be needed to install the support posts.

Please note that you will receive the croaker unprocessed, there will be bark on it. Therefore, to process it, you will need Sander and an ax. This way you can give this material a presentable look.

By treating the croaker yourself, you will save money, otherwise it will be done at the sawmill, and this is an additional cost. Don't forget to purchase fastening material, nails. After all, they will hold the entire structure of the fence. You may want to do without nails and secure our lumber with ropes. But remember that this will be an unreliable construct.

You should take care of the tree, having previously processed it with a special mastic, in addition, this will give the board a special color.

So, to make a fence, you will need:

Support posts.
Cross bars.
Rope.
Nails or other fastening material.
Axe.
Grinder.
Shovel.

Slab processing

Remember that the cheaper the lumber, the more knots, bark and other irregularities it will have. So tune in to processing.

It is best to remove the bark immediately, as it can settle in a large number of pests that will eat your fence over time.

Use a hatchet or grinder to completely remove the bark. This work is best done with the help of an assistant. After removing, let the boards dry in the sun. During this period of time, you can, for example, mark the territory, namely, determine where the gate and pillars will be located. Also during this period, you can process the lumber with a special mastic, and only after it has completely dried is it ready for installation.

Mounting options

Having marked out the territory, namely, having determined the places of the pillars, a hole is prepared for digging them in, as shown in the figure.

After preparatory work support pillars are concreted.

There are two options for filling the croaker. For example, vertically. Some people decide to fill it with an overlap, without a gap. In another case, also vertically, but with a step of 5-10 cm. To a greater extent, this will depend on your desire. Moreover, you can use unpolished material and thus give the fence an antique look. Alternatively, you can carve each board. In this case, the work will be very time consuming, but the result will come out very beautifully. You can also set the material horizontally. Fantasy can also be connected here. For example, by installing the boards end-to-end without a gap and close to the foundation.

The final type of fence will largely depend only on you and your preferences. Include your imagination and creativity. In some cases, you can combine the slab with other building materials. In this case, such a fence will truly become beautiful decoration your site. For example, you can use a metal support post, overlapping it natural stone... In the spans between such pillars, install the boards using the selected method. Make a base from below, which can also be overlaid with natural stone. The result will be very decent.

If you decide to lay the material with a herringbone, then overlap no more than two centimeters. If the board is well dried, then this overlap can be reduced, but not much. For example, if the width of the material is 20 cm, then it may shrink by 1.5 cm. For this reason, it is necessary to overlap the boards.
Using boards that are too wide is not entirely practical. Over time, they can crack in the middle. When preparing fence paint, you can use sunflower oil instead of drying oil.
For greater attractiveness, a decorative gable roof can be built on the top of the hedge, but of a small size.
For the strength of the fence, make recesses for the posts at least 50 cm, and for greater reliability 70.

Making dreams come true

Perhaps there will be those who are skeptical about such a fence. However, as we saw from this article, slab fencing has a right to exist. A slab fence will be reliable, sturdy, inexpensive and, most importantly, beautiful. Of course, such a fence can be safely installed in combination with a country house built of wood. Despite the simple appearance of such fences, they can be used to equip an elite suburban area.

So, no matter where it will be installed, the important thing is that you can do it yourself without the help of specialists.

Photo

Video

This video shows how you can remove the bark from the croaker.

Nowadays, it is still fashionable to have a country house where you can find solitude in the sultry summer months, where you can escape from the noise and gassed air. big cities... And one of the basic requirements for suburban area is the presence of a reliable fence. If you want an eco-friendly, attractive and sturdy fence, then you should consider a slab fence.

To some, such a proposal may seem absurd, because modern tendencies dictate the fashion for beautiful and majestic hedges that are able to emphasize unique style country estate. But despite the fact that the slab is, in fact, a waste product, this material has the attractiveness of wood and you can create a very original, and most importantly, reliable fence from it.

We use a slab for the production of a fence

Slab, like shavings and wood chips, is a waste on any sawmill. Therefore, its main advantage is the price. And in this case, the concept is more applicable not "cheap", but "for nothing." And if this material is not used on the sawmill, then this does not mean that it is hopeless.

Perhaps the only drawback of such structures is the need to process every detail of the fence. And then, the disadvantage is insignificant.

Fence installation

The installation instructions provide for the following work:

Preparatory stage.

Croaker. At this stage, you first need to prepare the material, so work should be started with debarking the slab.

Advice! If you want the structure to be durable, then be sure to remove the bark. Otherwise, your fence will be hit by a bark beetle, which will lead to its rapid destruction.

To remove the bark, use a carpenter's hatchet, scraper, and a flat, sharpened shovel.

Advice! To facilitate the work, a horizontal handle about 150 mm in length should be nailed to the end of the shovel handle.

Removing the bark can be a rather lengthy process, but you should not rush here, take this step very seriously.
Pillars. For such a fence, you can use both metal and wooden supports. For these purposes, even pine is suitable as a material.
As a metal pillar the best choice will become a pipe with a diameter of 76 mm, the wall thickness of which is 3.5 mm. In order to fasten horizontal purlins to such supports, plates must be welded. As girders, you can use the same slab that is sawn along.

The best material for wooden poles, larch or oak is used. In this case, the trunk diameter should be 200 mm with a support length of 2300 mm (500 mm is buried in the ground).

The part of the wooden post that will be placed in the ground must be covered with Kuzbass varnish or hot resin (as in the photo below). It should be ground in several layers.
Territory marking. This stage is very important, since it allows you to determine the amount of material and the strength of the future fence depends on it. The smaller the distance between the supports, the correspondingly stronger the structure will be.

The standard in this case is considered to be 2-2.5 meters. To save material, some home craftsmen increase the distance between the supports up to 3 meters, which is highly undesirable, since it will significantly affect the strength and durability of your fence.
In this case, one should proceed from the average length of the slats, therefore, the step between the posts of such fences rarely exceeds 2 meters.
Installation of pillars. This does not require styling strip foundation, but it is imperative to concrete the pillars, since the structure will be quite massive.

So, dig holes according to the markings.

Advice! In order to quickly dig holes, use an ice screw for the posts. It will allow you to do this much faster than a garden drill.

Install a support in the pit and give it a strictly vertical position. To do this, you should use a level.

Support the post securely with wooden struts.

Fill the hole with concrete.

Repeat the above steps for all pillars.

Installation of dies.

You can mount such a fence in two ways:
The dies are installed horizontally. In this case, we do without the use of girders, nailing the dies directly to the posts. Naturally, it will be most convenient to mount such a fence on wooden supports.

The dies are installed vertically. In this case, you can allow gaps or overlap. It is undesirable to do it end-to-end, since this option does not look very good due to the unevenness of the material.

For such a fence, it is necessary to install girders on which the dies are stuffed.
At vertical installation dies, you can make the top edge of the ends even or curly. For a straight edge, beat off a straight line with a cord.
Painting. This stage is very important, because if the tree is not processed, then your fence will not be able to boast of special durability. If you want to preserve the natural color of the wood, the material can be processed with special protective compounds, which will significantly increase the life of such a fence.

Fence paint can be made by hand, which will save you a lot.
You can buy everything you need at any construction hypermarket. The exception is red lead and vitriol, which are sold on the construction market.
The recipe is extremely simple:
We dilute the flour in a liter of water and cook the paste over low heat.

Without removing the paste from the fire, add salt and ferrous sulfate. Mix thoroughly until the crystals dissolve.

Add red lead and stir.

Add drying oil and stir until you get a completely homogeneous mass.

The finished paint must be diluted with 0.5 liters of water in order to achieve a paint consistency.

The paint is ready. Now we can paint our fence.

When laying boards with a herringbone, allow an overlap of at least 1.5 - 2 cm. If the boards are well dried, then you can reduce the overlap, but it is still better to play it safe. For example, boards 18-20 cm wide can dry out by 1.5 cm, so this measure is very justified.

The optimal width of the boards for such a fence is 20-25 cm. Smaller ones will look too thick, moreover, it will be uneconomical. If you take large ones - 30-50 cm, then such a fence will not look very attractive. Such boards can also crack in the middle.

When making paint, you can replace drying oil sunflower oil.

A great way to transform such a hedge is to install a small decorative gable roof over it.

Despite the fact that such a fence looks very massive, the depth of the pits for the posts of 50 cm is quite enough to ensure the reliability and stability of the structure. However, if you wish, you can play it safe and dig in 70 cm supports. In this case, your fence will not be afraid of any hurricanes.

Conclusion
As you can see, despite the fact that many are skeptical of the slab and do not consider it as a full-fledged material for fences, nevertheless, it is possible to create a durable, beautiful and inexpensive fence... Such a hedge is a great option for a wooden country house.
Despite their simplicity and a kind of "nationality", such fences sometimes protect elite cottages, therefore, if you know how to hold simple tools, then feel free to get to work. Watch the video in this article to get more information about the construction of such fences.

In the process of processing a solid log, a board with a one-sided convex part is cut out. It is this material that should be chosen when deciding to build a fence from a slab with your own hands. This is the residual lumber obtained by cutting equilateral planks on circular saw or sawmill frame. They call it "croaker". When sawing a log, its lateral part is cut off, one side is smooth, the other is "humped", hence the name.

In the village

The thickness of this material is also different, which affects its further use.

According to the standards, it is divided into varieties:

Large. The smallest percentage of such boards comes out. It is called business because this species has a wide range of uses. Goes on flooring, for the construction of fences and for use in other areas of the national economy.
Slim or non-business (wood-fired). Most of the custom timber. Use as a technological chip or for kindling.

During the construction of fences for summer cottages, this type of wood has become indispensable due to its characteristics. However, to build the original wooden fence from the slab, you need to know all the qualities of this wood, which has both advantages and disadvantages.

Beautiful gate

strength, reliability, massiveness;
low price;
with low weight, it creates a solid and solid building, looks beautiful;
easy to build, does not require the use of complex tools and equipment;
durable, environmentally friendly, moisture resistant;
available for purchase, you can always buy it.

The photo shows the croaker before processing.

Material procurement

heterogeneous tree structure;
different thickness of the boards, which will require the purchase of an additional amount of material;
the need for processing fences special means to extend the operation;
requires laborious manual adjustment of the unedged board and processing of every detail.

It is the slab that many owners of suburban buildings prefer to use for the construction of a fence.

Installation diagram of metal pillars

Slab fencing options

How to make a fence from a slab is a fairly simple question. You can make a beautiful fence different ways, but the main methods of filling a fence are considered to be vertical and horizontal.

Drawing for the installation of a fence

You can experiment with the installation of the dies, securing them end-to-end, overlapping, in a checkerboard pattern. And having cut off the figured top with the help of tools, set:

in the form of a peak;
like a palisade;
with a truncated top;
with a convex or concave top.

Slab fence options are varied. In any case, sanded and processed material will look expensive and stylish.

Wood waste fencing

When building a fence, you must remember about the permissible and about. It is not recommended to put in between.

Preparatory work

The first stage of preparation is to draw a diagram of the future fence on paper, draw up a plan in detail on how to build a fence from a slab. The plan should calculate how many unedged boards, pillars, fasteners are required.

Wiring diagram

Necessary materials:

antiseptic preparation for wood processing;
lumber;
emery for grinding wood;
varnish or paint;
sand, crushed stone, cement;
fasteners;
crossbars, poles, planks.

Before starting construction, you should stock up on material from an unedged board with a margin, since it is uneven and there will be a lot of waste. It is necessary to purchase poles for support.

The video tells about self-cleaning of the slab from the bark.

Required tool:

shovel, hammer;
saw or hacksaw;
centimeter;
level;
ax and cord;
scraper, paint brushes.

In order to make a fence from a slab with your own hands, you should start work with the preparation of an unedged board. Using a scraper, remove the bark from it, allow it to dry for three days in dry weather. You can leave the board with bark, but insects will quickly start there and destroy the wood. Then grind, soak the humpbacks with an antiseptic preparation, varnish.

Easy to manufacture fence

These actions will help protect it from bark beetles, from the destructive actions of the sun, wind, moisture.

A very effective wood coating recipe homemade: 200 g of rye flour, 90 g of ferrous sulfate, 90 g of salt, 90 g of red lead, 100 ml of drying oil mixed with 2 liters of water. Stir for 5 minutes. Dilute the thickened mass with 1.5 liters of water. This mixture penetrates up to 2 cm into the tree, forms a protective film from above, which will provide long term operation of the fence.

Esekiz for making a fence with your own hands

Installation of pillars and guides

When choosing supports for the fence, they take into account their financial capabilities and the composition of the soil. The sandy soil is looser; additional fixation of the support pillars will be required. The construction of a new fence from a slab is not temporary, so the pillars should be strengthened thoroughly. Varieties:

Wood. A support wooden post with a diameter of 20 cm is impregnated with anti-rotting agents. Treat the bottom edge with hot resin several times and wrap it in roofing felt. Dig vertically into the ground to a depth of 80cm. Tamp the hole for stability construction waste, small stone.
Metal. In a pit filled with a mixture of sand and crushed stone, a support is vertically installed, tamped, and poured with cement.
Concrete. A support is installed, for reliability, they are compacted with crushed stone, broken brick, and poured with cement. When installing horizontal spans, plates must be welded to the pipe, on which the material from the unedged board will be fixed.
Stone. At a depth of half a meter, they are made from a mixture of crushed stone with cement. After the solution has solidified, a stone support is installed.

The video describes in detail how to install the poles with your own hands.

Having decided on the choice of support, they adhere to the drawn up plan, dig holes for the pillars. Using a level strictly vertically, they are fixed with spacers and poured with a cement solution. For cross bars, straight and long slats are chosen.

A fence made of slab is one of the most budgetary and practical types. wooden fences... It can be crafted on their own without any special technological sophistication, as well as without the involvement of hired specialists and payment for their services.

Material for such a fence can be obtained without problems on any sawmill, if not for nothing, then for very little money. A fence of this type is distinguished by its reliability and durability, and with appropriate diligence, it can be given the necessary beauty and unusual appearance.

What it is?

The croaker is nothing more than waste from sawing tree trunks in woodworking industries. When a log is sawn on a sawmill into boards of various thicknesses, lateral fragments of tree trunks become waste from this process. They are rounded on one side. These side parts are called slabs. To this day, they are purchased for firewood where there is no gas heating, due to their low cost.

The croaker should be distinguished from the unedged board. An unedged board is flat on both sides. From ordinary board it is distinguished by the presence of rough edges. This variety wood material at a price significantly lower than semicircular slabs, which are sold at low cost as wood processing waste.

The croaker looks like a board, sawn only on one side. Another part of it retains its natural look and appearance of untreated wood. In the past, it was used only as a fuel and as a finishing material for temporary and rough fences, buildings and other structures. Summer residents, having appreciated the advantages of this timber, subsequently began to build reliable and original fences from it.

Its cost, as already mentioned, is very low, and all its options depend on the type of wood, the method of processing wood and the dimensions of the slab.

Advantages and disadvantages

Croaker as a "fence-building" material is chosen by owners of summer cottages and private households in rural areas, primarily because of its availability and low cost. Taking into account the fact that the fence is supposed to be built independently, its total cost will consist only of the costs of purchasing and delivering material to the place of work, plus a small amount for nails.

Fences made of it are easy to install, reliable and durable. These structures are very resistant to atmospheric factors, and if you have imagination and taste, they can be given a rather aesthetic appearance. These naturalistic and versatile fences are distinguished by their originality and originality of the exterior.

Slab fencing has a significant mass, as well as a long service life. On condition correct processing material, such a product can last 15 - 20 years... The simplicity of their installation allows, on their own, together with one or two assistants, to create such structures for any owner of a summer house or private household.

This should also include the environmental component. Natural material, from which such fences are made, simply cannot release anything toxic into the environment. In addition, their natural appearance and pleasant smell of wood cannot but please the owners and their surroundings.

Such fences are not of interest to vandals. The croaker cannot be scrapped or sold.

Even for the quick construction of temporary hedges or sheds, it is difficult to find a more suitable timber than a slab.

Its advantages also depend on the type of wood that was cut on the sawmill. In terms of hardness and service life, priority should be given to oak, beech and larch trunks, and then conifers wood and aspen. For construction, the most common are coniferous timber.

However, the slab has its drawbacks. Due to the unprepossessing appearance of this material, its refinement requires significant time and labor costs, because each die needs to be processed and sanded. In addition, you should select the required number of dies with relatively flat sides, which also have approximately the same width.

The construction of a slab fence will require a large amount of this material due to the need for its selection.

After installation, the slab must be treated with antiseptics several times, otherwise its service life will be reduced to 3-5 years.

The entire process of preliminary preparation of slab strips is extremely manual, that is, extremely laborious.

Although this lumber is affordable and cheap, it will take a lot of effort and time to build a decent fence from it, but the result of such work will be as aesthetic and original fence as it will be desirable for its owners.

How to choose?

This lumber is divided into two types - business and wood.

Wood slab cannot be used in the construction of wooden structures due to the heterogeneity of its surface and the fact that it is obtained from sawing trees of non-solid species.
Business slab goes to the sheathing of sheds, formwork and outbuildings, fences and various partitions are constructed from it. It is customary to subdivide this type of slab into thick and thin. This stacked lumber is more expensive than heaped lumber because it contains less waste. These bundles contain pre-sorted wood.
The best grade of this timber is the calibrated variety or block house. It is ten times more expensive than an ordinary business croaker, but it also requires pre-treatment to remove bark and polish.
The unrooted croaker is especially textured, but the bark exfoliates from it over time, and bark beetles can appear in it. After debarking and grinding, this material acquires an expensive and noble appearance. After treatment with protective antiseptic impregnations, its service life reaches 20–25 years. Slab grinding services are provided by the sawmill personnel for a separate fee, but you can do this work yourself using a grinder and an ax.

There is not much difference in selection by breed, but it is better to abandon the poplar, because it rots, and from the birch as its wood is very hard and warps over time.

It should be borne in mind that after the material has been delivered to the site, it must be sorted and processed in a short time. This is done so that the bark beetle does not render the material unusable. It is also recommended to dry the dies.

The cheaper the slab is chosen, the more it will have defects in the form of irregularities, knots and the like.

If damp lumber is purchased, then drying it should not be carried out under direct sunlight, but in a shady place open to the air, otherwise it will dry out intensively, and its surface will be covered with deep cracks.

Do not give priority to slabs with a width of more than 20-25 cm... Over time, large horizontal cracks appear on such wood along the entire length of the block.

If it is planned to nail the slabs horizontally, then for this too narrow boards should not be selected, otherwise the fence will lose its aesthetics.

You should know that after some time the croaker narrows by 1.5–2 cm due to the drying out of the wood. Therefore, it must be laid with an overlap.

If a solid picket fence is installed, devoid of gaps, then it is necessary to take slabs for it that have an even edge, otherwise you will have to modify them with a plane or an ax.

A picket fence with gaps can also be made of uneven material. The main thing here is the correct layout of the boards..

Most the best option there will be thick and wide slabs... Some of them can give quite normal cant for posts if cut to length.

It is better to refrain from buying sawn timber from trees that were cut down in the warm season and lay for a long time on outdoors.

Under a layer of bark on the wood of such slabs, mold and pest beetles are often affected. But in winter, the acquisition of stale wood will not cause problems, because the fungus and bark beetle do not show activity in the cold.

It is undesirable to acquire frankly raw wood, since, when it dries, it begins to warp and crack, which negatively affects appearance structures.

Too narrow material of low thickness is also undesirable to buy. To create a picket fence, you need a lot of narrow boards., and removing the bark from thin fragments is inconvenient and time-consuming.

When choosing timber at a woodworking enterprise, it is better to spend time on piece-by-piece sampling of slabs in order to select the most suitable specimens. This will significantly save time and labor costs in the manufacture of the fence.

Timber on pillars

For the support pillars of a temporary fence, it is quite acceptable to nail two slabs together with nails. If the structure is planned to be operated for a long time, about 15-20 years, a beam with a section of 10x10 cm or round timber ø 80-100 mm should be used on the posts. On the crossbeams, you can use thick blanks or use a bar with a section of 60x40 mm.

If it is decided to build a more capital fence with a height of up to 2.5 m, then the supports should be made of a metal pipe.

For a solid picket fence, the size of such a support is 40x60 mm, and for a lighter fence with gaps, it will be 40x40 mm.

Hedge options

The most simple option for execution is a vertical fence or palisade. In this case, the frame is made in advance, and slab dies are vertically nailed onto it.

In the second case, it is a horizontal fence devoid of crossbars. The slab is stuffed in a horizontal plane from one pillar to another end-to-end dies: with gaps between them or with an overlap.

Another type is the double-sided fence. In it, the installation of unedged boards is carried out on both sides of the fence.

This option is the most expensive, since it requires twice as much more lumber.

Calculation of material requirements

Usually, from the slab, the owners of summer cottages and private households build continuous hedges up to 2 m high in order to exclude the possibility of looking into their territory. In this case, vertical installation of pickets is the simplest option.

The length of the spans between the support pillars is taken equal to 2.5 m... For supports, a third of which are immersed in the ground, bars are taken with a length of 3 m. The amount of lumber is calculated according to the following algorithm.

The number of posts is equal to the total length of the fence, which must be divided by the distance between the posts. Pillars for wickets and gates are also added here.

The total length of the horizontal lintels is equal to twice the length of the fence. Here you need to add 10-15% for overlap, trim and waste. The amount of slab will depend on the size of these boards. It is calculated by dividing the available result by their length, adding a small margin.

The number of pickets for a solid fence can be calculated by dividing its length by the average figure of the width of the slabs.

It is better to purchase timber with a small margin, since in the process of debarking, grinding and subsequent processing, part of the slab will be rejected.

Fence construction

This process begins with cleaning the slab bark and antiseptic treatment. This is followed by the laying of the route for such a fence, marking the places for the installation of the pillars, as well as their installation in the ground. The final stage is the fastening of the cross rails and picket boards.

It is better not to build a fence in winter., as there will be difficulties with drilling holes, and all work due to the cold will take much longer.

Each of these stages will take a lot of time, so you need to calculate the completion of all the work several days in advance. The process can be accelerated by involving several assistants who will begin to perform separate operations in parallel.

Barking a slab

The practice, which goes back more than one century, shows that the most rational way removing bark from the surface of the wood is to remove it with a scraper. This tool is a steel strip sharpened on one side with two handles. For them, the scraper is pulled along the trunk, scraping the bark with it. This method allows you to keep the surface of the wood intact, unlike an ax, a pointed shovel and a power tool, which significantly extends its service life.

For logs debarking with a sharpened shovel is quite acceptable, which makes it possible to quickly clear them of the bark. For lighter slabs, this method is not suitable, because they are pulled behind the tool.

The croaker for this operation is placed vertically with support on any reliable object, for example, on a wall or a fence. Barking is done by moving the scraper from top to bottom. If necessary, the knots are stripped and the plank is aligned along the edges using an ax and a planer. After the bark has been completely removed from all wood surfaces, an antiseptic is applied to them with a brush, and all the processed croaker is left to dry.

This preparatory stage is the most time consuming in the construction of a fence. The longer such a fence is, the more material will have to be recycled.

Site marking

While the barked and antiseptic-treated croaker dries, you should start marking the site. You need to start it by finding the corner points of this section, marking them by hammering stakes there, between which the cord is then pulled.

The places where the supports will be installed are outlined by passing with a tape measure along the cord. The standard value here is a distance of every 2.5 m.... You can do it a little differently, alternating along the entire length of intervals 2 m long with sections of 2.5 m each, if there is a risk of getting one short span at the end.

If the planned height of the fence should be 2.5 - 3 m, then it is necessary to take into account the increase in its windage and wind load on the fence. To do this, the distance between the pillars of the supports must be reduced to 2 m, and the pillar in the ground must be installed to a depth of 1.2-1.4 m.

Installation of pillars

Fence posts can be installed by driving them into wells, installation using backfill, concreting. If the installation of pillars is used in wells made with a gasoline drill, then their diameter should be slightly smaller than the section of the bar itself.

The first two methods are more often used to install wooden poles. Before installation, the lower parts of such supports are coated with resin or bitumen mastic., and then driven into the wells. After that, it is necessary to add soil around the post and tamp it.

In the second case, a pillar support is placed in the dug hole, covered with stones from all sides and poured with liquid clay.

Concreting can be used to fix both steel and wooden supports. but anchor parts are pre-welded to the steel posts to secure the pipe firmly in the thickness of concrete. They can be pieces of reinforcement or a corner.

A combined version is also used, when a steel tubular support is concreted into the ground, on which a wooden support is installed.

In any case, the work is carried out in a way when the bottom of the pit is covered with rubble by 5 cm and it is compacted. The stand is installed strictly vertically on the level and is fixed support rails... Concrete is mixed from 1 part of cement, 4 parts of sand, 6 volumes of gravel and water. With this mixture, the pit with the racks is filled to the top. Subsequent work is carried out after the concrete has hardened.

Steel support posts can be installed using a method called concrete collar. Having a hole 0.5 m deep, the pipe is driven into it another 0.5 m below its bottom and poured with concrete.

In many Russian regions, there are often super-moist soils that swell from frost. In winter, they are able to push to the surface any object that is in the zone of soil freezing.

In a similar situation, concrete is poured below this level, and above, near the support, the wet soil is replaced with a mixture of crushed stone and sand.

Fencing construction

At the final stage, transverse logs are installed, to which the pickets are attached.

The crossbars are nailed to the posts. If lag is used wooden beams, then their position should be verified with a level. It is better to level the croaker itself, so to speak, "by eye". For this, the assistant, standing a few meters away, must correct the position of each of the bars.

Neighboring crossbars can be nailed end-to-end, as well as vertically stacking them one on top of the other. Lags consisting of slabs can be overlapped.

The first picket is nailed after leveling the vertical. At each point where the pickets are attached to the logs, two nails should be hammered. The rest of the pickets are attached, pressing against each other, with periodic review their vertical position.

If used metal racks, the logs are fastened with bolts, for which through holes are drilled in the pipe. In another version, self-tapping screws are used, which significantly increases the cost of the process.

To protect the upper ends of the fence strips from precipitation, it is best to fill a visor made of the same slab on top of them. This is the last operation in the construction of such a fence.

Thus, building a beautiful wooden fence from a slab is not a super difficult job, although it requires considerable labor costs. However, such a serious laboriousness is successfully compensated for low level costs. For optimal use personal time, it is better to divide the entire process into stages, performing, as far as possible, each of them. This is especially true for the owners of plots with a large area, if it is necessary to enclose them on all sides.

As a rule, when ennobling a personal plot, the issue of fencing the territory fades into the background, since there is always not enough money for this and suitable materials... However, in such an area, the wind constantly walks, bringing with it leaves, branches and other debris. That is why you can make a do-it-yourself slab fence. He will protect and decorate the territory.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material

Croaker is a material that is wood waste when processing logs on a sawmill. It looks like an uneven board, one side of which is flat, and the other is not peeled from bark.

In terms of quality, the croaker can be wood-fired and business... In the first case, it is unsuitable for construction boards and wood trimming, which are used as firewood for kindling. Business slab is more quality material having a great thickness. It is suitable for the manufacture of fences, outbuildings and other non-residential structures.

This material has a number of advantages that make it possible to use it not only for the construction of temporary structures, but also for capital buildings. With appropriate processing, it becomes the subject of inspiration for landscape designers who use it as a decorative material in the manufacture of fences.

The positive qualities include the following

Croaker is an inexpensive material. You can always find it in any woodworking company. The price for it is never high, so this wood can be purchased with a large supply.
The material is environmentally friendly. When making boards and beams, the logs are not treated with any chemicals.
Slab structures reliably protect from wind and noise.
Installation of this material is not difficult and does not require special knowledge in construction.
Processed slab elements have beautiful view, and often become decorative details in fences.
A fence made of this material does not require the construction of a heavy foundation, you can simply concreted the base of the post.

Among the disadvantages are:

One side of each slab board is covered with bark. It must be removed, since later it will become an excellent place for the life of woodworm insects and the reproduction of fungi.
Before using for construction purposes, the wood must be treated with antifungal impregnations and antiseptic agents.

Photo gallery: options for slab fences

The thread of each die adorns the entire structure
The distance between the wood visually makes the section even
Slab goes well with stone pillars, metal frame and roof tiles
The fence will be neat if you select the same size dice
Fastening the material using the herringbone method creates the impression of the majesty of the fence
Ordinary flower beds on a massive fence will make it more attractive.

Preparing for construction: calculating the area for the fence

A slab fence will not take much useful area plot. Calculations must be carried out on its basis. The diameter of the hole for concreting the column depends on its thickness.

The span width should be no more than 200–250 cm. If you make it larger, the fence will become unstable.

The height of the fence must be from 150 to 220 cm.

Knowing the dimensions of the spans of the fence, it is easy to calculate its area in order to determine the total value in further calculations. To do this, you need to remember the school geometry course, namely the formula for finding the area of a figure (S = a b, where a is the width of the span, b is the length).

Let's say a = 1.8 m, b = 2.3 m, so the area is 4.14 m².

4.14 6.52 = 26.99 m². The number should be rounded up to 27 m².

How to choose an unedged board

When choosing, one should give preference to the material laid in packs, since the wood in it is already sorted.

You also need to take into account the type of wood, for example, poplar is not suitable for building a fence. This is due to the fact that after a while, such a croaker will begin to rot. You should also be careful with birch wood, as it becomes hard when it dries. Driving a nail into dry birch is problematic, which means you have to use an electric drill to drill holes for each nail.

If you drive nails into wet birch wood, then when the material dries, they will come out, and the croaker will warp.

The cheaper the slab, the more knots, irregularities and other defects in it. Therefore, a grinder is indispensable here.

If you bought a wet material, then it is necessary to dry it not under sunbeams, and in a shaded area outdoors. Otherwise, the croaker will dry out quickly. As a result, deep cracks will appear on its surface.

You should not choose a croaker whose width is more than 20-25 cm. This is due to the fact that after a while large cracks will appear on such wood, passing horizontally along the entire length.

If the slab is located horizontally, then you should not choose too narrow boards for this. The fence will look unaesthetic.

When choosing a croaker, you need to take into account that after a while, it will become 1.5–2 cm burnt. This will occur as a result of the drying out of the wood. Therefore, laying must be done with an overlap.

Material calculation

If the fence posts will be concreted, then you need to know the total volume of the mixture.

On an area with soft soil, a columnar foundation is used (height - 70 cm, diameter - 20 cm). To find out how much cement is needed for one pillar, you need to use the geometric formula for finding this value for a cylinder (V = πR²h, where π is a mathematical value equal to 3.14; R is the radius of the figure; h is its height). Substitute the values: 3.14 0.2 0.7 = 0.4396 m³. It is now easy to determine the total volume of concrete required for all the posts in the fence. To do this, you need to multiply this figure by the number of bases. For example, if there are 15 posts in the fence, then 6.594 m³ (0.4396 15) of the mixture will be required.

The volume of the required amount of sand is calculated according to the same principle. For one columnar base, a layer 10 cm thick is required. Knowing the diameter of the hole, it is easy to make a calculation. Substitute the values for calculating the volume of the cylinder: 3.14 0.2 01 = 0.0628 m³ - sand is needed for one column. Now, if you have 15 spans, then there should be one more posts. Therefore, all sand will need 0.0628 16 = 1.0048 m³.

A rigid frame gives stability to the fence. As such, are used metal pipes with a square section with a side width of 70–80 mm and a thickness of 2.5 to 4 mm. To erect a fence post, the pipe is placed in a hole to a depth of 100–120 cm, while the height above the ground is from 150 to 230 cm.

To build a fence from a slab, you cannot do without:

screw and bayonet shovels;
concrete mixer;
containers for water and mixture;
grinder;
ax;
scraper;
electric drills;
welding machine (if the posts are made of metal);
cord and stakes;
building level and plumb line;
measuring tape;
bolts, nuts, washers, nails.

How to make a slab fence: step by step instructions

When all the necessary drawings are drawn up, the tools are prepared, the necessary materials are identified and purchased, you can start building a fence from the slab.

Before carrying out earthwork when digging holes under the pillars, it is extremely important to find out the composition of the soil, its freezing point and the level of occurrence of groundwater. This is of great importance, since an incorrectly chosen base for the fence will lead to deformation or destruction of the building.

Sandy soils during rains or after snowmelt can move, creating cracks or landslides. In this case, it is recommended to use screw piles as posts for fencing. They are screwed into the soil to a depth below the freezing point.

The high content of clay and sandy loam in the soil contributes to deep freezing of the soil and makes it unstable. In such soil, the pillars cannot be concreted, since when frost sets in, the clay base expands, due to which the foundation is squeezed out, and the fence is deformed and loses its original appearance. The impact on this soil of weather precipitation entails the formation of quicksands. Therefore, the use of screw piles is recommended.

The soil, which contains a large amount of gravel, is not subject to deep freezing and displacement under the influence of moisture. This soil is ideal for concreting pillars.

Solid stone or rocky soil has similar properties, with the only difference that it is harder. When building a fence on such a site, you can use all types of foundations, except for pile foundations.

All work on making a fence from a slab consists of several steps:

Front earthworks it is necessary to prepare the slab for use. To do this, you need to sort the material by shape and size, remove the bark from each board. This is done not only to give the wood a pleasant look. Thus, you will remove a favorable habitat for fungus, mold and bark beetles. To do this, use a carpenter's scraper. If such a tool is not available, then sharp axes, knives or bayonet shovels will be effective. Then, using a grinding machine, you need to make a flat surface, removing burrs and chips of wood. After that, the croaker is recommended to be treated with special antifungal agents and antiseptic agents.
Now you can go to earthworks. First of all, it is necessary to remove shrubs, stones and debris on the site. The built-up area should be leveled so that small bumps do not interfere with the markup.
Then you need to make a markup with the designation of each hole under the post. It depends on how even the fence will be located. To do this, use a stretched cord and stakes.
After that, it is necessary to dig holes in the marked areas. So that during operation the earth does not crumble into the hole, it is better to use not bayonet shovel, and a screw or special drill. The tool must be screwed into the soil and the contents removed every 15 cm of the indentation. Some builders use a drill to drill holes in ice just as well. The hole should be 20 cm wide and 70 cm deep.
Then, sand should be poured into the bottom of each of them and tamped down. To make the pillow more dense, bulk material need to be moistened. The evenly compacted layer should have a thickness of 10 cm. Gravel should be poured on top of it, in a layer of 10 cm. It should also be compressed.

Now it's time to install the supports in the hole. If during construction wooden poles, then they are pre-treated with antifungal impregnations. The part of the material that will be in the ground must be burned and protected from moisture. Roofing material or special liquid mastics based on bitumen can be used as a waterproofing material. If metal pipes are used as pillars, then their ends must be welded so that moisture does not get inside. This material must be treated with special substances that protect the metal from corrosion. Metal plates 5x10 cm in size must be welded to the posts. They are placed parallel to each other in the upper and lower parts of the support. They will serve as fasteners for the lags in the fence sections when the slab is installed vertically.

Place the prepared pillars in the holes. Using a sledgehammer or hammer, hammer them in with a few blows on the upper end. So they will anchor more tightly at the bottom of the hole. Using stretched cords, building level and a plumb line, align the racks with respect to the ground and each other. In order for the pillars to remain in this position, you need to strengthen them with stops. For this, boards or metal corners at least 70 cm long. They must be installed in the following order: one end of the material rests against the ground, and the other against the post.

After that, you need to fill in the holes with the pillars a small layer of gravel. Spread it evenly around the posts and compact.

Since the concrete base will rise 10 cm above the ground level, it is necessary to make a formwork that will hold the uncured concrete. To do this, use wooden planks... A structure is made of them, in width equal to the intended diameter of the base. In this case, the formwork looks like a box without a bottom, with a wall height of 15 cm. The frame boards are fixed with screws or nails. Then set on the well. So that during operation this structure does not move, stakes must be driven into the ground from each of its outer sides.

Next, you need to reinforce the concrete base. This frame will strengthen the columnar foundation and prevent it from collapsing. To do this, you need to make a volumetric frame from metal rods. As such, reinforcement with a diameter of 8 to 10 mm is used. These rods must be fastened together with a wire. As a result, a structure with a height of 50 cm should be obtained. The distance between the rods is made taking into account the diameter of the column installed in the hole. The fittings must not touch it.

Now everything is ready for filling. columnar foundation... For these purposes, it is necessary to use concrete grade M 200. With the help of a concrete mixer, it is much more convenient to maintain the mixture in a homogeneous thick state.

Pour the mixture into the holes with the posts and reinforcement installed in them so that the concrete is 10 cm above ground level. It should be noted that a lot of air bubbles remain in the poured mixture, and in order to remove them, a reinforcing rod is used, which is lowered into the mixture and removed from it.

When this procedure is completed, it is necessary to protect the concrete base from uneven hardening and moisture evaporation, which can lead to cracking of the base. For this, the foundation is covered with polyethylene or other waterproofing material. It takes 3 to 6 days for the mixture to fully harden. The lower the temperature of the air and soil, the longer this process lasts.

When the concrete base is completely solid, you can start installing the fence sections. The slab to the posts can be fixed both vertically and horizontally. To mount the slab vertically, the installation of a lag is required, on which the dies will be stuffed. They are fixed horizontally to the inner sides of the post at the top and bottom. To make the fence look more neat, you should not install the slab end-to-end. Due to the uneven edges of the material, your fence will look untidy. Therefore, small gaps are left. If you do not need gaps in the fence, the rails can be overlapped. This method of installing the slab resembles a "herringbone". There is another way - the slots are closed with installed dies on the other side of the fence. Visually, it resembles a wooden board with stuffed boards.

For horizontal installation slabs, it is necessary to use lags, it makes no sense, since the dies will simultaneously play the role of guides. As in the previous method, the material is attached to the posts. The installation of the slab dies must be started from the bottom. The bottom edge of each subsequent board should overlap with the previous one. If this distance is left less than 10-15 cm, gaps will appear in the fence over time. This is due to the fact that when it dries, the wood can shrink by the specified amount. The optimal width of the ram for a fence with horizontal mount is in the range from 20 to 30 cm. If you use a wider material, then when it dries, cracks will appear in its middle. It is also not worth using narrower dies, since the design will have an unaesthetic appearance.

If the fence is located in the open sun, then it is more susceptible to moisture changes and drying out. In this case, deep penetration paints are required.

Before applying antiseptics or painting the surface of the slab, you need to remove old paint, mold, damage from decay. The durability of the protective layer depends on how well you do it.

Effective folk remedies to protect the fence from the slab are:

Treatment of the fence surface with used machine oil. This tool is popular among summer residents and gardeners. Wood treated with such a product is unsuitable for the vital activity of microorganisms. Moisture will not be absorbed into the slab. Criminals will not want to climb over such a fence, since it gets dirty, so no one will steal such boards. Therefore, this tool is very convenient and affordable.
Other not less effective remedy- wood processing with iron or copper sulfate.
Do-it-yourself paint is widely used. It is popularly called "Swedish".

A well-proven means for processing wood - liquid glassine. It is specially designed to protect this material during wet conditions... Its main components are antiseptics and herbicides. Glassine penetrates into the pores of the material, displacing water. During the polymerization process, it clogs the pores of the wood, creating conditions unsuitable for the life of fungi and bacteria.

How to make "Swedish" paint with your own hands

The recipe for its preparation is simple. To make 1000 g (to be precise 1030 g) of paint, the following ingredients are required:

drying oil - 53 ml;
rye flour - 97 g;
iron or copper sulfate - 43 g;
salt - 43 g;
red lead iron - 43 g;
color;
water - 750 ml.

This amount is enough to process 3.5 m² of surface. The paint is applied to the wood in two layers. Such processing will reliably protect the fence for 15–20 years. For the front part of the slab fencing, it is better to use impregnations and processing agents of proven companies, such as: "Belinka", "Neomid", "Pinoteks".

How and what to decorate a slab fence in the country

Using the slab as a building material for the construction of a fence, many find it difficult to imagine that their fence can be made beautiful. You don't need to be a designer and have an art education to polish this fence.

The material has a natural natural look. Slab goes very well with stone, brick, foam block and metal.

This material is often used to construct sections of a fence with stone posts. A slab fence takes on a completely different look if the upper edge is not made even, but for example, arcuate. Ordinary flower pots, hung in a checkerboard pattern, will transform a rough design.

You can use a hacksaw or a grinder to make curly cuts at the ends of each die. In fence sections, they will look unusual and attractive.

The slab fence looks very nice, on top edge which is a small gable roof... It has a finished look and resembles Old Russian or Scandinavian fences.

The upper ends of the vertically installed slab dies can be made tapered. Such a fence will look like a picket fence.

The fence looks unusual and beautiful, in which the slabs are fixed vertically in the "herringbone" method.

Video: beautiful fence and slabs

The croaker should be considered as a full-fledged building material... The fact that it is a waste of production does not make it suitable only for construction temporary fences... It blends in with the landscape and is compatible with buildings made from other materials. The processing and installation methods of the slab are so simple that it is very easy to build a fence from it yourself.