Cutters for volumetric threads. How to make the simplest DIY woodcarving tools. Blade material

Turning cutters for wood - designed for manual processing of a part rotating in a machine.

They consist of two main parts: a working (metal) and a handle (usually wooden).

In turn, the working part can be conditionally divided into:

cutting (blade) - this is the part that is sharpened and interacts with the workpiece;
body - the main part for which the turner holds the cutter with his “non-working” hand on the arm of the machine;
shank - a narrowed part into which the body smoothly passes. The shank is designed for attaching the handle to it.

The handle can be roughly divided into two parts:

the base is a large part that the turner holds in the "working" hand;
neck - a small cylindrical part with a metal fastening ring that prevents the handle from cracking when it is pushed onto the shank of the working part.

Types of turning tools

Depending on the type of work performed, wood turning tools have a different configuration, the more complex the product, the more sophisticated their design will be, which will determine the specific sharpening of the blade. Each craftsman may have his own special, exclusive, highly specialized turning tools designed to perform some special work. Therefore, there is no need to study the design of each individual cutter.

For the successful work of a novice turner, two types will be enough: reyer and meisel.

Reyer - designed for rough, rough, initial processing of the workpiece. A design feature of this type is a semicircular-shaped blade. It is made from a thick plate or from a semicircular groove. With the help of a reyer, a wooden blank is given an approximate outline of the future product.

Meisel - for finishing the workpiece, giving it its final shape. Also, it can be used to cut the product from the remains of the workpiece. In shape, the meisel resembles a jamb knife (a plate with an oblique blade, sharpened on both sides at the same angle).

With the help of a reyer and a meisel, you can easily carry out turning work of medium complexity. Machining the workpiece on the outer surface. In some cases, it is possible to work with the inner surfaces of the part.

All other turning tools for wood can be attributed to the group of shaped. Among them, the most popular are the following types:

chisel scraper - for leveling the cylindrical surface of the workpiece. It resembles a straight chisel with one-sided sharpening;
comb - designed for carving and decorative grooves and grooves;
hook - for grinding cavities in the workpiece;
ring - has the same purpose as the hook;
for rough processing - has the shape of a blade in the form of a triangle. Designed to give the workpiece a cylindrical shape. This type is the safest of all the others due to the small area of contact between the tool and the workpiece.

It is not difficult to make reyer and meisel yourself. For making them with your own hands, the most suitable material will be files and rasps that have already "outlived" their own. This decommissioned tool has the required dimensions, strength, material quality, steel grade. With the help of a sharpening machine, the file is given the required shape in the part of the blade and shank. Then a turned handle with a fastening ring is stuffed. And that's it, the tool for making wood turning products is ready.

To make turning cutters for wood, you can use, in addition to files and rasps, as a material, car springs or reinforcement bars. They have the required hardness. But after making a tool with your own hands, you need to be extremely careful. Its tests must be carried out on soft woods (linden, poplar), after which it is necessary to inspect the blade for chips and cracks. And only after such a check, do-it-yourself turning tools can be used when working with harder wood (birch, oak, beech).

Video about homemade incisors

When making a cutting tool yourself, you need to remember:

the shorter the working part, the more difficult and inconvenient it is to hold it while turning. The length of the body should provide a full grip with the hand, plus an emphasis on the armrest, plus the distance from the armrest to the workpiece, plus a margin for wear and sharpening. Therefore, the initial length of the working part should be at least 20 cm, but a size exceeding 40 cm will cause inconvenience in work. The optimal length should be 20-30 cm;
the shorter the shank, the greater the possibility that it can be pulled out of the handle. Therefore, when the cutting tool is made from files or rasps, the shanks are extended by 1.5 - 2 times;
the thinner and narrower the working part of the tool, the more likely it is to be damaged by the workpiece during the turning process. Therefore, at the initial stages of processing, when the workpiece does not yet have an absolute cylindrical shape and a runout occurs along the blade, as well as at large diameters, when the cutting force is of great importance, it is necessary to use cutters with sufficient thickness.
lathe cutters for wood should have a handle not shorter than 25 cm. If it is much smaller, then it will be difficult to hold the tool in the hands during the turning process, not to mention the quality of the work performed.

Sharpening incisors with your own hands

The quality of the processed surface largely depends on the correct sharpening of the working tool.

To do this, you will need an electro-sharpening machine with a set of wheels of different grain sizes and a velvet block for manual dressing of the blade.

Cutter sharpening video

Each master chooses the angle of sharpening independently, focusing on his skill of the turner, the hardness of the wood, the quality of the working tool and the final desired type of the processed surface.

For a novice turner, the best options for sharpening angles will be:

for meisel - the bevel itself should be 40 ° in relation to the axis of the working surface and 40 ° for each side of the blade;
for reyer - 50 ° - 60 °.

Over time, as the level of skill of the turner increases, the sharpening angles can be reduced to 20 ° - 35 °.

Ideally, in addition to a set of different shapes, it is desirable to have cutters of the same type, the same size, but with different sharpening angles. This will greatly speed up and facilitate the work of the turner, as well as extend their service life, because you will not have to constantly re-sharpen the blades based on the type of wood being processed.

Obtuse sharpening angles are suitable for: hard wood, initial (rough) processing.

Sharper angles of the cutting tool allow better surface treatment, speed up the turning process, but at the same time there is a high probability of the workpiece chipping and damage to the blade. And you have to sharpen and edit such a tool much more often than with more obtuse angles.

The approximate angle of sharpening of the blade is formed even at the stage of making cutters with our own hands, before the start of heat treatment - hardening.

Then, when they are completely ready, the sharpening process is carried out using an abrasive wheel and completed by hand lapping on a velvet block.

All photos from the article

In the arsenal of any craftsman engaged in the manufacture of decorative objects, there will certainly be wood cutters for handicraft. These devices can be very different, and therefore it is advisable for beginners to familiarize themselves with their main types, as well as study the features of choosing and caring for such a tool.

Carving attachments

General principles

Wood carving is a fairly popular technique for decorating various products.

As a rule, the process itself takes place according to the following scheme:

First, a blank is made from wood, whether it be a flat board, a deck or a curly blank.

Note! Sometimes with help. In this case, such a fragment is selected, the shape of which has the maximum decorative potential.

Then a rough leveling of the workpiece surface is performed, during which all defects are removed from it.

After that, the surface is processed with special cutters, with the help of which part of the wood is selected. Due to this, a decorative relief is formed.
After the completion of the thread itself, finishing processing is performed - grinding the cut out areas, impregnation with protective compounds, full or partial painting, varnishing, etc.

The most important tools in this process are wood carving cutters. In addition to the skill of the carver himself, it depends on the quality and correct selection of the cutter how clean the ornament or plot image on wood will turn out.

That is why below we will look at the main types of such tools and describe where and how they are used.

The main types of incisors

To create volumetric images, craftsmen use a variety of types of wood cutters. In principle, if you have the skill, you can do without some of the products listed below, but to achieve the best result, it is better to collect as extensive a set as possible and use each device for its intended purpose.

The main types of incisors are presented in the table below:

Variety

Application in work

Jamb knives

They are knives with short triangular blades with different bevel angles.
They are a versatile tool, therefore they can be used to form a wide variety of relief objects, ranging from straight lines to shallow depressions.
When working with a jamb knife, three functional zones are used: toe, blade and heel.

Chisels

The most common type of incisor. A typical chisel is a long shank with a cutting edge formed at the end.

Depending on the shape of the edge, chisels are:

Flat - used to form straight lines and depressions. Flat chisels with a wide blade are also used for roughing in order to cut or shave off surface defects.
Corner - used for cutting V-shaped grooves and grooves, as well as for the formation of shaped elements. The smaller the angle of closure of the planes of such a chisel, the deeper the relief formed by it will be.
Semicircular - one of the most common in curly carving. The rounded shape of the end blade allows you to efficiently extract wood from the solid, forming a depression. Small semi-circular chisels are also used for texturing and scoring on a flat base.
Bracketed - in terms of functionality, they are similar to semicircular ones, but when the wood is removed, a groove is formed with clearly defined inner edges.
Inverse (rounded and parentheses)- are used to form semicircular and rectangular protruding parts, as well as to draw parallel lines.

Wood carving is challenging and exciting. It allows you to create unique crafts, decorate your home, make gifts to friends and acquaintances.

Also, carving will be a constant source of positive emotions, and for some it will even bring income. For children, this hobby will be a great way to spend their free time and develop artistic thinking.

Most often, wood carving tools are made. This happens for three reasons:

Firstly, it is rare to find a good cutter on sale.
Secondly, many cannot afford it, especially adolescents and children who are fond of carving. Most often, incisors are sold in sets, have a high price and half of them are unlikely to ever be needed.
Finally, the third reason is that experienced carvers prefer to make a tool “for themselves”.

DIY woodcarving tools (drawings) can be divided into three types - knives, chisels and shtiheli.

A knife is a tool that works with a straight or curved cutting edge.

Cutting of wood takes place under a force directed mainly across the axis.

A carving chisel is a tool that directs force along an axis, similar to the principle of a conventional carpentry chisel.

Shtikhel is a tool that is a kind of chisel. First, it cuts into the wood, and then there is a "tearing" of a small layer of wood with the skillful movement of the carver. All kinds of klukarzy belong to shtikhels - a special instrument popular in Transcarpathian woodcarving.

Starting Simple - Geometric Thread Cutter

Geometric thread is the simplest type of thread.

It will be the best choice if you just want to try your hand at carving.

Despite the apparent simplicity, it allows you to create drawings with a "three-dimensional" effect.

It is also a national art craft in Russia, Karelia and Finland.

Geometric threads do not require a lot of hand "hardness" like chisel threads. It consists of simple elements - pegs and triangles.

It is easier to make a tool for carving wood with your own hands than for any other. Objectively, this is the only tool that can be made at home without the use of forging.

A cutter for geometric carving is a knife. Outwardly, it looks a bit like a slant-blade leather boot knife, but that's where the similarities end. The main difference is the blade width and the cutting angle of the knife.

The width of the cutter for a geometric thread should be about 2 cm, however, this will depend on the size of the chips that you intend to cut.

The angle of the "bevel" of the cutter should be quite steep, almost straight - from 80 to 70 degrees. It is undesirable to work with a too "sharp" nose - the cutter during such work will close the drawing and you will not be able to see what you are doing. In addition, too large angles will constantly break the tip of the incisor with awkward movements.

Blade material

The best option is to make the cutter forged from a bar.

The part of the blade protruding from the handle should be forged from the circular section into a flat knife.

It will cover the drawing less when.

Unfortunately, most carvers do not have access to the forge and do not have the forging skill.

For them, it will be optimal to make a tool for carving wood with their own hands from an old blade of a hacksaw for metal.

The blade is made of R6M5 steel, sometimes - of carbon steel. It has a width of 25 ... 50 mm and a thickness of 2 to 5 mm. If possible, take a blade with a width of 25 and a thickness of 3 mm, it is optimal for the cutter.

How to cut the blade to the right size and angle? After all, it is hardened! You don't need to cut anything. Clamp the canvas tightly in a vice under the desired one.

Then, with a hammer blow, simply break off the blade as needed - in the overwhelming majority of cases, the break will occur along the line of clamping the vise jaws.

Then straighten the cut line on an electric sharpener and pre-sharpen the cutter. Fixation of the blade in the handle is carried out with the help of teeth that used to cut metal. It is best to do this by drilling holes and hammering rivets, but due to the hardness of the material, drilling it will be extremely inconvenient.

Perhaps you will find another, more suitable one. The main thing is that it must be made of high quality steel. Some make incisors by sharpening from files or from surgical instruments, from the blades of knives to strip wire insulation. Excellent cutters are obtained from broken disc cutters for metal from P18 steel. All of these methods are good.

About homemade wood tools - in the video:

Description and varieties

The chisel is a professional tool of a joiner or carpenter, used to remove layers of wood and apply a variety of ornaments, including carved ones. The very design of the tool includes a handle made of wood or plastic (often used for electric mixers) and a sharpened blade.

With the help of chisels, craftsmen process wood products and decorate certain products. For this, devices with different blade configurations are used. The wood is processed with the following types of chisels:

The described types of chisels for woodcarving in various quantities are used by professionals. In addition, they have a lot of modifications, for example, shaped chisels for wood carving. Tool kits contain several options at once. However, it also happens that the kit does not include a device that would suit specific purposes. Therefore, some craftsmen decide to make the device on their own.

Chisel making

Materials and tools

First of all you need to choose the right materials... As a blade, you can use:

So now you need prepare all the necessary materials and tools:

Cutter for metal processing;
Tongs or pliers;
A vessel with cooling water;
The handle is made of wood or plastic.

Manufacturing from a cutter.

A homemade chisel from a cutter is made according to the following scheme:

From the drill.

To make a tool with your own hands, you need to use the following instructions:

First you need to flatten the tip of the drill and cut it off.
The blade needs to be shaped.
The handle is made in exactly the same way as described above.

Devices for cutting wood from a drill can often be seen at many craftsmen: they are made easily and simply, and most importantly, in their exact shape and size.

From a file.

For this purpose, you will need a grinding wheel. The file must be sharpened at a specific angle. A square file can be used to make an angle fixture. However, for this you need to acquire a high-quality abrasive for metal.

Needle files can be used to make a device even for cutting complex shapes. At the same time, you can make it right in your kitchen above the stove.

Clamp the file by the central part with tongs and hold it over the gas burner until it turns red.
Quickly but carefully bend the heated part to the required shape, and then lower it into the cooling water.
We carefully wipe the device with a cloth and begin to sharpen.

Angle tool.

To create angle-type tools, you can take an ordinary metal profile. We cut off excess material and sharpen the workpiece at the required angle. A chisel can also be made by bending the part, but it will not work for hard wood species.

The manufacture of original wooden products on machine tools implies the availability of a varied and high-quality auxiliary tool. In most cases, this is done using cutters for a wood lathe. Thanks to them, it is possible to bring the workpiece to the required geometric parameters.

Manufacturers offer all kinds of kits that include products with cutting edges in all kinds of configurations. You can also make a wood cutting tool yourself.

Wide range of shapes and models

When processing wood blanks professionally, it is important to correctly select the appropriate tool for turning woodwork. A wide selection and volumetric sets with versatile tips will cover a significant part of the work.

Varieties

Based on functionality, wood chisels are usually divided into the following groups:

Rough peeling... The tool has a pair of working faces that mate at an acute angle. It is believed that this design is significantly safer than radius counterparts.

Finish turning... Such types of cutters for a wood lathe remove an insignificant layer of shavings and are not intended to shape the workpiece, but their purpose is to give external smoothness to the outer surface. Metal lugs are available with left-hand or right-hand cut.

Former for wood on the working part has a semicircular cutting part. They are used to work with non-standard surfaces.

Shaped can have almost any configuration

... They are relevant now for one operation in which it is required to separate some part from the workpiece.

Cutting width 10 mm

Boring... With the help of such products, excess material that appears during processing is removed. A special step located in the cutting area helps in such an operation.

Boring machine for removing excess wood

Turning tools on wood with a round section. They are used to machine radius workpieces. The working part can be both radial and with small technological teeth.

Turning work on wood at the end is carried out using a conventional cutting file.
As auxiliary equipment, special limiters on the cutters are used, which limit the depth of cut.

In addition to the standard set, professionals use homemade cutters for a wood lathe in their work. This approach provides increased productivity and helps to expand the range of finished products.

If you intend to deal with wood processing for a long time, then in this case you cannot do without a high-quality tool, which is made of tool steel. It is able to withstand high production intensity, which is not always possible for homemade products.

Homemade wood turning tools

The greatest difficulty in the production of each type of chisel for a lathe is the selection of blanks for the cutting part. In addition to ensuring the appropriate hardness, one has to think about the possibility of installing the metal part in the holder. It will allow you to fix the cutter in the desired position for comfortable processing.

The most acceptable material for homemade cutters is tool steel (U8, U10, U12, etc.). It should be borne in mind that it will be problematic for processing in a garage or at home. This is due to the high initial hardness of the material.

The traditional practice is the manufacture of cutters from a carbon steel grade for a lathe, followed by its hardening. The tool is independently made from the following raw materials:

Rebar or rods of steel. It is preferable to select workpieces with the geometric parameters as close as possible to future cutting shapes.
File or rasp. Knives for household use are converted from used files that have lost their original appearance and cutting ability. It is important to check the workpiece for cracks and strong chips in order to get a quality product.
Pieces of springs from cars. Such steel is problematically processed without preheating and shaping as closely as possible. An autogen or a welding machine is used for this operation.

A good alternative is to make a basic turning body in which you can change the cutters. However, this situation requires the presence of mounting elements in the construction of the finished product. In the process of work, they are required to hold a significant load and not change the initial position of the cutting part.

Rasps or files that have already served their life can be used as blanks

When the workpiece has been bent to the required shape, it is necessary to pre-sharpen the edge. At the next stage, the working part is hardened. This is done by heating the tip over an open fire, such as a gas burner or in a forge. Further, we provide sharp cooling in a large volume of machine oil.

High-alloy and high-carbon steels should not be boiled in water, since the internal stresses of the material will lead to cracks, brittleness and failure of the workpiece.

It is recommended that self-made wood cutting accessory equipment for a lathe be tested on soft wood. This will help avoid possible negative consequences with it. After a short test, it is necessary to check the integrity of the original sharpening and shape of the tool.

VIDEO: How to make a reyer with your own hands (rough cleaning)

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself Meisel (finishing)

Tool sharpening

Every working chisel must be well sharpened. Otherwise, it will not give the desired surface cleanliness or will create chips in wooden blanks. Sharpening of turning cutters for wood is required in several cases: after purchase (not all manufacturers sell their cutters in a sharpened form) and after bluntness of the edge (giving the original look to the tool). It will be possible to return the edge to the required sharpness with the help of certain operations.

First of all, for proper sharpening, you need to stock up on several types of sharpening stones. The coarser, coarser grit will be the roughing tool, while the fine grit abrasive will be the lapping tool.

If there is such a retainer for abrasive as a shoe, then the equipment is fixed in it at the required angle. Further along the surface we drive the cutter from side to side.

Using exceptionally coarse grains for sharpening is impractical, as it will not give the desired sharpness. Sharpening with fine grain all the time is also wrong, because the stone will become clogged with shavings, and the metal will burn and lose its hardness from an increase in temperature, which will lead to rapid dullness. You can use a medium grain from the range 25-40 with a hardness of CM-1.

Often, professionals practice sharpening with their own hands in several stages. First, roughing operations, then finishing also on the machine. The finishing stage is carried out on a sharpening bar - a donkey. They can be lubricated with machine oil to minimize heating of the workpiece.

Storage is carried out in a dry place, as this instrument does not tolerate moisture. After each application session, it is necessary to clean each cutter from the remnants of chips, resins or other types of contamination.

VIDEO: How to sharpen the tool correctly