Reproduction of cacti at home by cuttings. Vegetative propagation of cacti at home. Dry rooting of the offshoot in the air or in the sand

Reproduction of a cactus by shoots has a number of advantages: this method is simple (even beginners can do it) and economical (does not require much money). But there is always a risk that an exotic plant simply will not take root in latitudes with a temperate climate, especially if the offshoot does not initially have its roots.

What time of year is it better to breed?

Planting a cactus shoot can be done throughout the year, but still the best time is spring and summer. The fact is that countries with hot climates are the homeland of succulents. The temperature regime, the duration of daylight hours during spring and summer are close to the "native" weather conditions of this flower. In addition, any plant in a warm season experiences a phase of active vegetative development, which will greatly facilitate the process of succulent rooting.

In late autumn and winter, you can also try to plant a baby of an adult cactus, but it must be remembered that a young plant will need additional care: providing a sufficient amount of light, observing the temperature regime.

Selection and preparation of land for planting

Priming

Ordinary garden soil will not work for rooting and growing a cactus. A special substrate for succulents can be purchased at a flower shop, the main components of which will be river sand, humus from leaves and turf, peat and all the necessary nutrients.

If it is not possible to purchase this mixture, then you can prepare it yourself:

1. coarse-grained river sand, garden soil, combine peat in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5;
2. you can add a little crushed dry leaves and foam balls.

Drainage

A necessary component of the internal filling of the pot, in which a cactus without roots will be planted, is drainage - a layer of certain materials that helps to drain excess water during irrigation. The drainage volume should occupy a maximum of 1/5 part and a minimum of ½ part of the tank. Drainage can consist of:

• expanded clay;
• pebbles;
• small pebbles;
• broken brick;
• broken foam;
• pre-cut wine corks.

Selecting and preparing a pot

Material

Many gardeners advise planting succulents in plastic containers., since plastic is a substance that does not absorb water and does not change the temperature of the soil placed in the pot.

Fans of everything environmentally friendly can safely plant succulent in a container made of clay or ceramics.

It is better if the pot is light in color so that the soil in it heats up less.

The size

Cacti grow in arid climates, so they have a long root system... Therefore, when choosing dishes, it is necessary to take into account the fact that its root system needs space, which means that tight and small dishes for planting will not work. Preference should be given to wide and deep dishes, in which the roots of the plant will feel free and will receive a sufficient amount of moisture and nutrients.

The main condition that a cactus pot must meet is the presence of drainage holes to drain excess water. Otherwise, the liquid accumulating at the bottom will contribute to the decay of the succulent roots and, therefore, lead to its death.

How to take a shoot with roots correctly, what to look for?

Before planting a shoot, you need to select and prepare it. "Children" are formed on the cactus itself in the process of its life... They can be found both on the top of the plant and below, at the very roots, it all depends on the type of succulent. It is not difficult to separate them from the mother plant, because they are minimally connected to the stem. While still on an adult cactus, the shoots of most types of succulents begin to release roots. In addition, over time, the shoots can fall off and, falling to the ground, begin to develop their root system, so reproduction takes place without problems.

When choosing a shoot for transplanting, it is important to pay attention to its size (the large one is stronger and more viable), its location (it is believed that high-quality shoots grow closer to the top of the plant).

Also can be propagated by cactus and "children" that do not have roots- this will not cause any particular difficulties. In any case, the scion is placed on a clean, dry sheet of paper and placed for 3 days or 1 week in a dark and cool place to dry the cut a little (this is done in order to prevent decay of the scion). For more information on all methods of planting a cactus without roots, read in.

Photo

In the photo you can see a cactus with "children":

Step-by-step instructions: how to plant a flower and a shoot with or without roots?

Let's consider in more detail, how to transplant shoots without roots or with roots from an adult plant.

1. Separate the offshoots from the mother plant with a sharp knife or tweezers.

   Despite the fact that the "babies" are not firmly attached to the mother plant, nevertheless, the shoots must be separated very carefully: if the slightest particle of the "baby" remains on the cactus, the plant may rot, and the sprout will not take root.

2. Prepare everything you need for planting: a pot, soil, drainage, withered shoots, a scapula.
3. Place a drainage layer on the bottom of the pot.
4. Fill the rest of the place in the container with soil, which must be moistened.
5. Make a small indentation in the center of the pot.
6. Place the "baby" of the cactus in the recess with the cut down, without dropping it. If the "baby" has roots, then after placing them in the recess, they must be carefully straightened.
7. You need to lightly crush the ground with your hands in order to fix the process in one position. You cannot bury it deeply!

So that intensive evaporation of moisture does not occur from the surface of the soil, on top you can place small pebbles or sea pebbles.

How to care for the first time at home?

It is possible not only with children, but also in other ways. In our separate materials you can learn about and, that is, by splicing two cacti into one. Be sure to read these articles - there you will find a lot of new and interesting things!

What if it doesn't take root?

Generally cactus can be called an unpretentious plant, it easily takes root in the ground... But on one condition: if no mistakes were made during preparation and landing. So, if the shoot is not sufficiently dried before planting, it will rot in the ground and it will be impossible to correct the situation.

If the shoot is too small for planting, then it will most likely simply dry out, without letting the roots go. "Baby" must be large enough, it must contain the necessary supply of nutrients.

And of course, all conditions necessary for keeping a succulent must be observed:

1. do not fill it with water;
2. do not place in a dark and cold place.

Otherwise, the cactus will simply die, never having time to grow.

Each flower is beautiful in its own way. AND flowers of unprecedented beauty are hidden behind the prickly view of the succulent... Therefore, a cactus is a welcome exhibit in the collection of many flower growers, since it is not difficult to breed a plant with shoots.

Video

More details on how to plant a cactus with "kids" can be seen in the video below:

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl + Enter.

Seed propagation is an interesting section of working with cacti. All processes, from fertilization to the formation of an adult plant, take place before the eyes of the researcher. Cactus seeds can be sown in March, April and May, while South American species can be sown in August. It is better to sow them in bowls, but you can also use seed boxes and pots for this. At the bottom of the dishes, drainage from small shards or gravel is arranged. A layer of a mixture of equal parts of sod, deciduous soil and coarse sand is poured on top. To this mixture is added 0.5 parts of crushed charcoal. The soil is leveled, slightly compacted and 0.5 cm of the same mixture sifted on a fine sieve is poured on top. The edges of the dishes should be 2 cm higher than the ground level. The transverse grooves are made with a marker at a distance of 1.5-2 cm and a depth of 2 cm. Seeds are carefully laid out in the grooves at a distance of 1 cm and slightly pressed into the ground. The day before sowing, the seeds are soaked in warm water. Before sowing, the water is drained, and instead of it, a pink solution of potassium permanganate is poured and the seeds are left in it for 10 minutes. Then the solution is poured and the seeds are dried.

The substrate for sowing small cactus seeds is significantly different from the main mixture. For them, it is better to take a mixture of equal parts of fine expanded clay (up to 1 mm in diameter) and peat or deciduous soil with a small addition of crushed charcoal. Large cactus seeds can be sprinkled with fine expanded clay. The thickness of its layer should be equal to the diameter of the seed.

Large seeds are sprinkled on top (1-2 mm) with finely sifted earth, and charcoal dust is poured on top to prevent mold.

The first wetting of the substrate is carried out from below through the holes in the dishes, which are placed on a saucer with water. The water should be 2-3 ° warmer than the surrounding air. When moisture penetrates to the soil surface, the bowls are removed from the water, the crops are covered with glass and placed in a warm and bright place.

In bright sun, the glass is whitened or the bowls are covered with paper. During the day, the air temperature should reach 25-26 °, at night it can be reduced to 15-17 °.

For seed germination, it is necessary that the topsoil is always moist. To do this, it is carefully sprayed with warm water (30 °) from a hand spray, so as not to wash off the seeds. For spraying, it is better to take rain or boiled tap water. To moisten the entire earth, the bowls are dipped into water once a week, as well as immediately after sowing.

With this method of germination, the seeds of some types of cacti germinate after 5-7 days, others - after 10-15, and in some species - after a month or later. Seedlings appear uncommonly. Some of the sown seeds of the same species sprout in a few days, some in a month. Plants grown from late germination are usually weak. Therefore, seedlings of earlier shoots are taken for cultivation.

When shoots appear, they are accustomed to the ambient air. To do this, even on sunny days in the morning and in the evening, they remove the glass, and in the afternoon they shade it with tissue paper so that there are no burns. Do not close at night. In the summer they water when the top layer of the earth dries out. Once a week, the soil is moistened from below.

The grown seedlings dive into bowls or boxes with nutritious soil and give them a large area of ​​food. Seedlings dive after the appearance of the first thorns.

Small seedlings are transplanted with a wooden fork and peg. The roots are not pinched, the earth is not shaken off them. Care must be taken not to curl up the tips of the roots. Dive seedlings are planted densely, with a distance between them equal to their diameter. After transplanting, the seedlings are shaded and not watered or ventilated for 2-3 days. With early sowing, seedlings dive three times: when the first thorns appear, in early June and early August. The rebutia of kraintsiana, Palmer's pilosocereus and others are successfully propagated by seeds.

The crust on the soil surface is carefully destroyed with a sharpened stick or removed. When mold appears, the earth is sprinkled with grated charcoal or moistened with denatured alcohol or a solution of copper sulfate (1 g of vitriol per 1 liter of water). Moss is removed if the soil is heavily infected with mold, the plants are replanted. For better development of young cacti, they are illuminated with fluorescent lamps.

Propagation of cacti by cuttings

Valuable species and their hybrids are propagated by cuttings (to fix their characteristics), as well as those cacti that do not form seeds. Cuttings are carried out from April to July.

Cut off the cuttings and separate the "kids" with a thin and sharp knife or a safety razor blade, having previously disinfected them with alcohol or calcined over a fire.

Before planting, the cuttings are dried for two weeks or more. A properly dried cutting should have a hard and glassy cut surface. It is easy to determine by touching it with your fingernail. Cuttings root better when dried upright. The location of the cut is chosen so that the wound is as small as possible.

When planting, fresh soil is lightly compacted by lightly tapping the pot against the table. In no case should sticks or pegs be used to compact the soil - with such "tools" it is very easy to injure the root of a cactus and cause its death, since the beginning rotting of the roots also spreads to the stems. Cuttings are recommended to be taken from lateral ripe shoots or from the tops. To do this, you can take shoots, and from a leaf-shaped cactus (epiphyllum) - pieces of leaves. The length of the cuttings is from 6-8 to 20 cm. The cuttings are sprinkled with charcoal powder. Treatment with root formation stimulants is also possible.

For plants that secrete milky sap, filter paper is placed on the cut. If the upper part is taken on the handle, then the cut end is "sharpened" like a pencil so that the roots appear from the cambial ring.

The prepared cuttings are left in the air for 3-4 days so that a dry film forms at the cut site. It is better not to bury the dried cuttings in the soil, but simply place them in small holes in the sand mixed with crushed coal filling the pot and cover with a glass cap, raising it once a day for airing. The cover is removed when the cactus clearly starts to grow. It was found that cactus cuttings root faster in expanded clay than in sand.

Cuttings of zygocactus, epiphyllums, ripsalis and peyrescia are planted immediately after cutting. After rooting, they are planted in small pots or boxes. A layer of broken shards and gravel is poured onto the bottom of the pot for drainage, then - earth specially prepared for a specific group of cacti, and slightly compacted.

For cuttings of valuable plants, a depression is made in the soil larger than the diameter of the cuttings, up to 3 cm deep, which is filled with coarse sand. Then a hole is made with a peg, corresponding to the thickness of the cutting, with a depth of 2 cm. The cutting is planted in it and tied to the peg. The soil around the cutting and the sand is pressed. The soil should be 1-1.5 cm below the edge of the pot so that water does not spill during watering.

Cutting cacti: a - a stalk of a cereus b - a stalk of a leaf-shaped cactus, c - a stalk of prickly pear, d - a stalk of an eriocereus, 1 - sand, 2 - earth, 3 - drainage

Cuttings of most types of cacti are planted in bowls or in sowing boxes to a depth of 1.5-2 cm, cuttings of prickly pears - a little deeper. For better rooting, they must be placed in a warm and bright place at an air temperature of 20-25 °. The soil is not watered for 10-12 days. Cuttings of delicate cacti are recommended to be placed in a greenhouse or covered with a glass cover to increase the air humidity around them to 70-80%. Cuttings should be carefully sprayed 2-3 times a day with a spray bottle. When the cuttings grow roots, they are planted in small pots of potting soil. A small depression is made in the center of the pot, a rooted cutting is placed in it and covered with a mixture of sand and crushed coal. The planted plants are placed in a shaded warm place for 1-2 weeks. Water a little from the pallet. The plant is provided with a support. When the seedling starts to grow, it is gradually accustomed to bright lighting and regular watering.

Roots appear in some species after 10-15 days, in others after 25-30 days or more. After the formation of roots, the cuttings are watered more. Plants that have already developed root systems and young shoots are transplanted into large pots and fresh soil. For the best cultivation of cacti from seeds and cuttings, it is necessary to use indoor greenhouses and greenhouses.

Rooting cactus cuttings in water

There have been many experiments on rooting cuttings in water. It was found that under these conditions different cacti behave differently.

If the plant is threatened with death, the top is cut off to a cutting. The same technique is used when it is necessary to cause lateral shoots from dormant eyes-areoles.

In peyreskia, not only shoots can be rooted, but also leaves with areoles, and in prickly pears, green fruits. Rhipsalis and selenicereus can be rooted in water in spring and in the first half of summer. So, almost all epiphytic cacti, as well as cereus of different groups and species, root well in water. Selenicereus cuttings taken from the bottom of the stem take root in water after two weeks. After three weeks, they can already be planted in pots. In the experiments of flower growers, cuttings of ripsalis cut in spring rooted best in water. Their roots began to appear within 7-10 days, while in the control specimens planted in sand with peat - only after two weeks, and even then not from the central axis.

Different results are obtained when rooting in water of cacti originating from deserts and semi-deserts. Their cuttings, dipped in water, quickly rot.

They should be rooted like this: for three to four days, dry in the air and insert into a jar of water, but so that the lower part does not reach the water by 2-3 cm. Cuttings cut in the first half of summer begin to form roots after 2-3 weeks, and after the same period of time the roots grow to water. This is a sign that the plant can be planted in pots. Previously, they cannot be planted, since young roots are very easily affected by diseases and die.

To prevent the lower part of the cuttings from sinking into water, cover a half-liter or one-liter jar with a wide neck with a circle cut from tin, plastic or cardboard. Its diameter should be slightly larger than the width of the can. A hole is cut in the circle corresponding to the thickness of the cutting. Up to ten cuttings can be placed in one jar. Root cuttings in a sunny place.

When the roots of large cacti die for some reason, it is not immediately possible to notice this. Within one to two years, the plant gives a small increase due to the reserves of nutrients in it. Finally, when the shrinking of the cactus becomes noticeable, it is necessary to shake off all the ground, cut off the decayed roots and root it again in the sand. A depleted plant over the summer is not able to form new roots and begins to die in winter.

Dying plants are placed in jars of water in spring, but so that the remnants of their roots are 2–3 cm above the surface of the water. After 1-2 months, characteristic thickenings appear at the ends of the old roots, and then new roots. After that, the plants are planted in pots, watered and placed in a warm place.

A stalk of Wild's mamillaria was left in water, to which a solution of the "flower mixture" was added. For four years the plant has formed strong roots, grew normally, gave "babies" and bloomed all summer. The water in the bank was changed twice a month. In winter, the regime was somewhat different. Water was left only at the bottom of the can. The plant was lifted so that the roots were above the water. The neck of the jar was closed with cardboard or cotton wool. This provided the necessary air humidity for the roots. Selenicereus stalk took root in the water over the summer and formed a new young shoot.

Reproduction by children

Cacti are propagated by "children" in the same way as by cuttings. After the roots of the planted plants have formed, they are transplanted several pieces into pots or boxes. "Babies" of Mamillaria are slender and small, easily crumbling, can be rooted next to the mother plant or in a separate bowl.

Grafting cacti

It is one of the methods of reproduction of cacti, as well as the cultivation of their valuable forms and hybrids.

Some types of cacti practically do not grow without grafting on other rootstocks. For example, astrocylindropuntia, some tephrocactus and melocactus.

Some rare species of cacti are also inoculated - arnocarpus, encephalocarpus, leuchtenbergia. Sometimes seedlings are grafted to grow them. Then the vaccinations are removed and rooted (astrophytum, echinocactus). Grafting of cacti is also carried out to accelerate growth and abundant flowering (trichocereus, hymnocalicium), to obtain interspecific and intergeneric vegetative hybrids. When the roots and the lower part of the stem decay, the top of the cactus is grafted onto a healthy stock.

Methods for grafting cacti: a - grafting of zygocactus on peyresque: 1 - cutting off the top of the peyresque, 2 - grafting and securing the scion with a thorn, 3 - securing the scion with a woolen thread; b - grafting of cereus on trichocereus; c - inoculation of aporocactus and gariasia; d - inoculation of rebutia on Spach's trichocereus; e - grafting and binding of grafted cacti: 1 - cuts of the rootstock and scion, 2 - binding with a woolen thread, 3 - binding with a thread and on top with an elastic band, f - grafting seedlings on the lateral processes of a cactus, g - grafting a cactus on prickly pears with a "wedge": 1 - preparation of the scion and stock, 2 - the scion inserted into the cut of the stock

All cristate (comb species), chlorophyll-free forms - Mikhalovich's hymnocalycium form rubra - are grafted on tall, healthy stocks: Cereus, Eriocereus and Trichocereus.

The best rootstocks for large cacti (from the genera Trichocereus and Echinocereus), as well as for small and slow-growing (Eriocereus, Nikitcereus) are thin and fast-growing species.

Echinocereus is best grafted on Van Dyck's Echinocereus or prickly pear. When grafted on other rootstocks, it produces lateral shoots.

For inoculation of seedlings, the best rootstocks are "babies" of Echinopsis. For this purpose, you can also use young specimens of Eriocereus.

Types of spherical prickly pear and tephrocactus are best grafted on cylindrical prickly pear, ficus indica prickly pear and felt prickly pear. A good rootstock is the Pahano Cereus, which does not have thorns and grows in thickness along with the scion.

Trichocereus Spach, Trichocereus large-angle, Peruvian Cereus, Schikendant's Trichocereus, Yusbert's Eriocereus and Yamakaru's Cereus are considered universal rootstocks. The best results are obtained when grafting on the last rootstock of Lobivia and Rebutia. On prickly pears, their usual and crested forms, as well as echinocereus, are grafted. For zygocactus, the most suitable rootstocks are Peyresian prickly and Peyreskia large-leaved.

Vaccination is carried out at a temperature not lower than 15 °. The graft and rootstock should be of the same diameter and equally juicy. The central bundles of their conductive tissues should be connected as best as possible. This ensures the success of survival.

The grafting of cacti is done as follows: first, the stock is quickly cut off with a sharp knife. In plants with a large diameter, the edging is cut obliquely around the stem; then a thin layer of the rootstock is cut off and left in place to keep the cut from drying out until the graft is prepared. The prepared scion, also with a cut edging, is applied to the rootstock cut (after removing a thin film before this) so that their centers coincide. Cotton wool is placed on the top of the scion and the scion is tied to the stock with an elastic band under the pot. This technique greatly helps them grow together. The vaccination site is tied with woolen threads. Successful vaccination requires quick work progress, clean hands and a clean knife. Slices should be smooth. The sections of the rootstock and scion should not remain unconnected for more than one minute; the rootstock must not be overdried during the grafting period. The grafted plants are covered from the sun with paper, watered moderately, but not sprayed. Better to cover them with a glass jar. After grafting, the plants are kept at an air temperature of 18–20 °. The dressing can be removed 10 to 12 days after vaccination. The result of the vaccination can be determined by whether the scion is growing. If the plants have not taken root, it is necessary to make new cuts on the rootstock and scion and repeat the grafting.

1. Lukyanchik I. Echinopsis - not fashionable, but still beloved // My favorite flowers, № 3, 2009
2. Yukhimchuk D.F. Indoor floriculture.-Kiev: "Harvest" .- 3rd ed., 1977
3. Cacti // Family, land, harvest № 10, 2003
4. Edward F. Anderson The Cactus Family Timber Press, Inc. 2001 777 p. Eng.

Many growers who grow cacti in the room are interested in how they reproduce. Today we will tell you how to do it correctly.

Reproduction of cacti from seeds

Cacti are propagated by seeds, cuttings, leaves, shoots. During vegetative propagation, the biological properties and characteristics that distinguish this species, variety, variety are preserved: color of flowers, short stature, pyramidal, resistance to viruses.
Some succulent plants from the Asteraceae, Euphorbiaceae, cactus family do not form seeds, and many do not bloom. Therefore, they can only be propagated by cuttings or shoots.

When cacti are propagated by seeds, varietal and other characteristics are not always transmitted, however, this makes it possible to obtain new varieties, and it is best to sow them in March-April. With an earlier sowing, the seedlings do not have enough light and they stretch out strongly; with a later sowing (in June - July), they do not have time to get stronger by the first wintering.

A 1 -2 cm high drainage from pebbles or expanded clay is poured into the prepared container, then it is filled with a specially prepared soil mixture consisting of 2 parts of deciduous humus, 1 part of sod land, 1 part of not very coarse sand, with the addition of crushed charcoal.

The seeds are placed at an equal distance from each other, the small ones are left uncovered, the larger ones are covered with a layer of finely sifted earth (the thickness of this layer is equal to or slightly greater than the thickness of the seeds). Then the earth is leveled with a smooth board and moistened with a spray bottle. The container is covered with glass and placed on a sunlit windowsill.

Under favorable conditions, seedlings appear on the 8-14th day, but they are not always amicable: often the seeds germinate after 20-30 days, and some prickly pears - after two months or later. After the seedlings appear, the glass shelter is removed, and the tender plants are taught to a brighter light.

The temperature after seed germination is reduced by 2-5 ° C in order to prevent the seedlings from pulling out. First, young seedlings develop two cotyledons, and then between them there are heads characteristic of each type with pubescence in the form of thin delicate hairs.

Small seedlings are planted with a dive peg at a distance of at least 1 cm. During the first summer, it is useful to repeat the dive - this contributes to better development of the root system and more vigorous growth of seedlings. The surface of the soil in seed bowls often hardens or becomes overgrown with a layer of green moss. In this case, the plants should be transplanted into fresh soil of the same composition as when sowing.

In the summer, it is useful to expose the seedlings to the open air, but at the same time to protect them from sunburn: on a sultry day, they must be shaded with gauze in one layer. Watering is required abundant. With the onset of autumn, watering is gradually reduced, the topsoil is regularly loosened.

If algae or molds appear on the surface, the affected areas are covered with ash. The next year, taller specimens are transplanted into small pots (7x7 cm).

Vegetative breeding method for cacti

Now let's talk about vegetative propagation. Many spherical cacti (some echinopsis, mammillaria, rebutia, hymnocalycium) at the age of 4-5 years give lateral shoots-balls that are easily separated from the mother plant, have small roots and root quite well.

Most Mammillaria, Cereus, Echinopsis, Echinocactus, Cleistocactus never form "babies" when grown indoors. In such cases, the columnar cacti are cut into pieces of a certain size. In spherical cuttings, the upper part or half of the stem is cut off. After such an operation, shoots grow from the areoles (modified axillary or apical buds) in the upper part of the stem, which, after 6-10 months, are planted in the desired substrate for rooting.

When the root system dies off or the lower part of the stem decays, the upper part of the cactus is cut off. When rooted as a cutting, it replaces the mother plant.

In leafy cacti, small whole branches, separate cuttings or even their halves are taken on cuttings. When harvesting cuttings, one should adhere to the following rule: cut the cactus in narrower places of the stem (epiphyllum) or at the joints (prickly pears, zygocactus, ripsalis, schlumberger) with a sharp clean knife or razor, without squeezing living tissues and preventing them from breaking.

Sections must be sprinkled with crushed coal, allowed to dry until a hard glassy film is formed. Large cuttings can even lie for 1-2 months without harm to their life.

For rooting, the substrate is of great importance. As practice has shown, cuttings of cacti root best in washed medium-sized river sand. In indoor conditions, plants are rooted in small pots or boxes, where a drainage layer 1.5-2 cm high is placed on the bottom, then sod and leafy soil (equally) is poured, mixing it with a small amount of well-washed sand. The height of the nutrient layer should be 4-5 cm.

Cuttings are planted to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. For stability, they are tied to a flat peg. The pot is placed in a place well warmed by the sun, but shaded from direct sunlight. In prolonged hot weather, cuttings should be sprayed with boiled water.

The best time for cutting cacti is March-April to mid-August. Cuttings taken in October-November require a long drying time and take root slowly. In April-March at a temperature of 22-25 ° C, rooting occurs in 15-20 days.

Rooting of cacti depends on the correct fulfillment of the following requirements:

The cut should dry to a hard vitreous crust;
- the cutting should not be planted deeper than 1 cm;
- it is impossible to create excessive dampness in the pot;
- it is necessary to maintain a certain temperature and light conditions.

By following these rules, success will be assured.

Rooting cuttings in cacti

1. Rooting of a lateral shoot ("babies"), in which the roots have already formed on the mother plant: cut from the mother plant with the smallest possible cut surface, dry it for a week.

2. Rooting the cutting: cut with an even cut; sharpen the cut surface of the cutting cone, dry in an upright position for about a month.

3. Rooting phyllocactus: cut off the segment at the base in the narrowest part of the stem. Since the roots are poorly formed in this place, the segment of the stem is cut again in its wide part and the cutting is dried in an upright position for two weeks.

Galina Fedorchenko

Among all indoor plants, cacti are some of the most picky inhabitants. Despite the fact that their appearance may not seem as attractive as the appearance of the rest of the green inhabitants of the windowsill, many growers prefer them. Therefore, if you also want to acquire this plant at home, then knowledge of cactus propagation methods will be very useful.

There are several ways to propagate a cactus, the simplest of which are the use of cuttings and children from adult plants. Vegetative propagation of a cactus is not such a complicated process as it might seem at first glance, and now you will be convinced of this.

Propagation of cacti by cuttings

Cutting of plants is used in cases where it is necessary to quickly increase their number, save diseased specimens, or dilute any decorative form. Reproduction of cacti by cuttings will not take you much time, however, before carrying out the procedure, you need to take into account some of the nuances.

When to cut cacti

Not all months of the year are equally well suited for this task. Experts recommend cutting cuttings either in spring or summer, since with the onset of autumn and winter, most plants are dormant. If you ignore this recommendation and cut off the stalk, then it will not suffer and, quite possibly, even take root, but the mother plant may die.

Nevertheless, in some cases, it is simply impossible to do without this procedure. For example, there are times when the plant slowly dies and in order to save at least something, you have to cut the crown.

When is it worth cutting a cactus

Before you learn how to propagate a cactus at home, you should decide whether you really need this process at a particular point in time. There is a certain set of situations when plant propagation would be appropriate. So, if the cactus has one stem, then the procedure should be carried out:

• when it is too long and ugly;
• when the main part of the plant is not just long, but can simply drop the pot;
• when the top of the cactus rests against the shelf or window frame and there is not enough space for it;
• the stem is severely corky in the lower part or the roots of the plant have begun to rot.

Most often, grafting of one stem is reduced to pruning and re-rooting of the top, although, if the length allows, you can cut the main shoot into several parts (cuttings). Well-branched, multi-stemmed plants are often cut for propagation for personal use (increasing the number of cacti) or as a gift.

How to cut cactus by cuttings

Before you start grafting a cactus, you should prepare all the necessary tools and materials. First of all, you need a good sharp knife, which is perfect for a stationery tool with a thin blade and a straight edge, or a razor blade. You should also prepare alcohol for disinfection, crushed charcoal, soil for a plant, a pot or bowl with drainage holes, a few pebbles and a large plastic tweezers (an element from a toy set or kitchen tongs with silicone pads will work).

As for the process of propagation by cuttings itself, it takes place in the following order. First, select the mother plant you want to cut and determine the exact location of the cut.

Important! If the stem rot is observed in a cactus, then only its healthy part can be cut off.

After that, take a pre-selected tool (razor or knife) and wipe the blade with alcohol.

Now, grabbing the cactus by the top with tweezers or kitchen tongs (you need to act very carefully so as not to break the thorns), you can cut off the desired part of the stem. If you do not have tweezers or kitchen tongs at hand, you can use a paper tourniquet: a sheet of paper is folded in several layers and simply wrapped several times around the stem of the plant.

After the stalk is in your hands, put it on a blank sheet of paper (on its side) and leave it in a shaded, cool place for 2-4 days, during which the cut will dry out a little. In the case when the stalk was cut from a diseased plant, it is better to sprinkle it immediately with crushed charcoal, leaving it flat in one plane, but in some cases the cut stalk is better "sharpened" in the place of the cut like a pencil. With vegetative propagation of a plant in this way, pointed cuttings form strong roots much faster.

At the next stage, a special soil mixture is poured into the pot and slightly moistened. Then several stones are laid out on the surface of the soil, after which the cutting, dried for several days, is placed between them with the cut part down. If part of the shoot turned out to be too thin and unstable, an additional support is placed in the pot and the stalk is already tied to it with a woolen thread. You can also place the cut part of the cactus directly into the ground, but in this case it should be completely dry. When in contact with wet soil, the stalk will quickly rot and die.

Did you know? When rooting cacti by propagation by cuttings, instead of top drainage, it is better to use large pebbles. They can be easily removed to see if the roots have appeared or not. However, do not look under the cactus too often, as you can only harm it. As soon as the roots grow well, they will be noticeable anyway.

Having placed the cuttings in a pot, it remains only to place the container under a bright diffused light (the eastern window is best suited) and wait for the roots to appear. They hatch after a few weeks, although this process may take a little longer.

As an alternative to rooting the cut portion of the mother plant, you can use a container of water. I must say that in some cases the roots will appear faster than on the ground. You are required to pour some water on the bottom of the can, cut a funnel with a wide opening from a plastic bottle and place the handle so that the cut is 5 mm higher than the liquid. As the water evaporates, it must be periodically refilled, and as soon as the roots begin to hatch, it will be possible to plant the plant in open ground (do not bury it, but simply put it on the soil surface).

By the way, cactus cuttings often grow roots even just lying on a shelf, however, with vertical drying, they will appear more evenly over the entire cut surface. At the same time, when dried in a horizontal position, the roots appear to a greater extent from the side on which the cutting lies.

Reproduction of cacti by children

In addition to propagation by cuttings, the vegetative method of breeding cacti also involves the use of plant babies. Such parts of the cactus are already in themselves intended for its reproduction, so you do not have to think for a long time how to separate the babies from the mother bush. Nevertheless, despite the fact that they are easy enough to break off, it is better to use a sharp knife to disconnect from the "mother", which will help to avoid unnecessary damage to both the baby itself and the mother plant.

In addition, during the separation process, be sure to make sure that no body parts of a small plant remain on the cactus, and, conversely, there should be no traces of a large cactus on the child's body. Failure to comply with this rule can lead to decay of both, which means that, figuring out how to propagate a cactus with children, this point should be taken into account first of all.

It is better to divide the cactus in this way in the spring or in the summer, since the rooting of "babies" is very bad in the autumn-winter season. Before direct rooting, the baby, like the stalk, needs to be slightly dried for a week, placing it in a dry, warm and bright place in an upright position. In this case, the rooting process will be much faster, and the possibility of offspring decay will be practically zero.

One of the most important points when answering the question of how to root a cactus with children is the use of a suitable substrate. Different sources provide different information regarding the composition of the soil mixture, but one of the most successful options is considered to be a mixture of calcined sand, charcoal and sphagnum moss, taken in different proportions. As for watering children, before the formation of roots, it should be done very carefully, since there is always a possibility of decay with excess moisture.

Did you know? Both the cutting and the baby of the cactus will be more viable and strong only if they are located closer to the top of the cactus.

We have already found out how you can root cacti with children or cuttings, and you probably noticed that there is nothing complicated in these processes. Much more responsible is the procedure of grafting a cactus, which involves the transplantation of parts of the stems (usually segments or heads) of rarer plant species onto other cacti with greater endurance. After the fusion of two parts from different plants, one dominant specimen appears.

Why plant cacti

A lot of plants are bred by grafting, and not only indoor, but also garden plants, but as for the cactus, there are a number of reasons for performing this procedure. So, the vaccine can be performed when:

• you need to make a cactus bloom, which is difficult to give in to this process;
• you need to save the plant from death due to the loss of roots (for example, if they are rotten);
• it is not possible to root the stalk in any other available way;
• before you is a species that is very difficult to maintain if it grows on its own roots;
• I’m just wondering what happens when the two separate species are combined.

For all its advantages, grafting a cactus still has one significant drawback - almost all grafted plants do not differ in durability, since the operation performed is not natural for them.

What conditions must be observed during vaccination

As with the cultivation of cacti by cuttings or children, propagation by grafting has its own characteristics and rules for the procedure. First of all, the time of the operation should be taken into account, since it is most rational to graft plants in spring or early summer, except, of course, those cases when the roots of the cactus rot and there is a serious likelihood of losing a valuable specimen. However, even in this case, the outcome of the procedure may not always be positive.
If you have no choice, and you have to vaccinate in winter, then first, the cactus rootstock should be brought into a state of growth by increasing the watering of the plant and increasing the temperature in the room (you can just move the pot to another room).

Stock is called the cactus on which a part of another species is grafted, and for the success of the business, it must have a good and healthy root system, being in a state of active growth. So, only a completely healthy bush is suitable for the role of a rootstock, which was transplanted at least a month before vaccination and is not prone to the formation of children. Most often, Eriocereus jusbertii is used as a rootstock, the reason for which is the unpretentiousness of this cactus and the speed of its growth.

Of course, during the procedure, all instruments must be completely sterile, for which they can be wiped with alcohol. As for the selected cacti themselves (supposed scion and rootstock), it is better to wipe each of them with a brush dipped in alcohol.

Once you cut the cactus, you will have a little time to attach part of the second plant to it, since the cut must be fresh. The rootstock and the scion should be aligned in such a way that their cambial rings on the cut coincide as clearly as possible and their diameters are approximately the same. The success of the entire vaccination largely depends on this requirement.
Cambium - a layer of cells of educational tissue, which is located in the thickness of the cactus stem and roots. It is presented in the form of a ring and is clearly visible on the cut. Secondary conducting bundles originate from these cells, and when the rings of the scion and rootstock coincide, if, of course, they did not have time to dry, they grow together. The more the rings match, the better.

Important! The cuts on both plants should be horizontal and even, and the bandage that ties the cacti should hold them firmly (but not cut into the stem tissue).

Cactus grafting technology

As soon as you prepare the cacti and treat the tool with alcohol, you can proceed to cutting the top off the rootstock and grafting another plant directly. The sections must be aligned immediately after they are formed, before they begin to dry out and oxidize. To press the scion against the stock, it is recommended to use a thin elastic band or thread. Cactus cuttings are prepared by cutting off the tops with a sharp sterile blade, and the age of the cutting does not matter. When pruning the plant, follow the procedure as carefully as possible so that the edges of the slices are not wrinkled or chewed. You can immediately sprinkle the sections with colloidal sulfur or crushed charcoal, which will protect the cacti from mold and rot.
In general, the grafting technology is not particularly difficult, but every plant breeder believes that the success of the final result depends on the correct choice of rootstock, to which the cactus stalk will be grafted. However, an equally important condition is the speed of performing all actions, and if something went wrong and the procedure began to drag on, then either make fresh cuts (they should not be dry), or cover the already cut parts with pieces of cling film. In some cases, the rootstock may produce too much juice, which will interfere with the correct and tight alignment of the cambial rings, so it is worth stocking up on sterile gauze napkins in advance.

Important! Never use cotton pads or cloth to wipe the sections, as they can leave fibers.

Caring for cacti after the grafting process

Already grafted cacti should be placed in a warm, dry place that is well protected from direct sunlight. Moreover, the grafting site, as well as open sections, additionally protect against water ingress on them during irrigation. You can cover the cactus with a glass jar.

The process of accretion lasts a month, but you can loosen the gum restraining the cactus shoot in a week, and after another 7 days it will be possible to completely remove it.

In some cases, other methods of grafting are also used: for example, using a wedge or in a split with a scion fixed with spines of a cactus, but this, as they say, is “aerobatics”.

Whichever method of vegetative propagation of a home cactus you choose, you should always strictly adhere to all the requirements for this procedure, otherwise there is a chance of losing both plants: both the scion and the stock.

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18 once already
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Once upon a time there was a cactus, pleasing to the eye, but something went wrong, and he began to die. I think that many novice flower growers faced such a situation. This happened with my cactus. He migrated to me from my mother, he felt good with her, but I had more lighting, he gave a lot of children, its top began to grow into a ball, and at a distance of 3-4 cm from the ground he winced and bent. Although I rooted 3 children, I didn't want to lose the cactus. The only option was to cut it above the fold and root it.

Why re-root a cactus

It happens that the cactus begins to rot at the roots:

• due to overflow,
• due to the fact that the soil does not absorb water well, it lingers on the surface and causes decay,
• due to the wrong size of the pot: it is too large, so the water in it stagnates,
• due to bacterial or fungal rot.

If the cactus has rotted at the roots, then to prevent the spread of rot, you need to cut the cactus and root it again.

So, I'll tell you about my experience of saving a cactus through rerooting.

What you need:

• sharp knife or scalpel
• crushed coal (matches can be burned)
• alcohol
• glass or rope / tape for drying cactus
• a thick glove / towel to hold the cactus in your hands

Stages of work