First aid for cacti. Cacti: diseases and their treatment Zeco cactus is losing leaves what to do
Consider the main diseases of cacti and their treatment. Most often, cacti are affected by spider mites, various rot, viral infections, the stem is covered with brown spots. The cactus rots due to waterlogging of the soil, in some cases it is fungal infections, spotting is also a consequence of waterlogging of the soil in a pot, but it is also caused by viruses. Brown spots are the result of a burn or viral damage to the stem. Spider mites are the result of dry air and insufficient watering.
So, cactus diseases and their treatment with photos and detailed explanations from specialists. What if the cactus is rotting, stained, or yellow?
Diseases of a cactus due to improper plant care
Why did the cactus start to rot and turn yellow? In this case, it is necessary to pay attention to the conditions of keeping the plant. So, a cactus rots if it is arranged the wrong winter.
The first reason why a cactus begins to rot from below is improperly organized wintering.... In temperate latitudes, cold wintering is arranged for cacti. This is a temperature of +12 ... + 15 degrees, a lot of light and a minimum of moisture. Why do cacti need a cold wintering? The explanation is simple: in an ordinary apartment, with the onset of winter, it is difficult to organize the necessary care for the plant. This is a high temperature, the length of daylight hours is above 14 hours. With a lack of sunlight, a short daylight hours and a high temperature of the content, the cactus is gradually depleted and begins to wither and rot. In addition, during the dormant period (during the cold wintering from November to March), the cactus lays flower buds. A rested plant produces many young shoots and grows intensively with the onset of spring.
The second reason why a cactus rots is an excess of moisture.... It is very easy to fill in a cactus during a dormant period, and even in hot summer. In winter, the plant is not watered; in the summer, between waterings, the soil in the pot should dry out. An excess of moisture is not tolerated by those cacti, whose homeland is the desert, and those that grow in the forest and are used to a humid climate.
Sometimes a cactus rots on top. It could be bacterial rot... In this case, even under good keeping conditions (moderate watering, daylight hours 14 hours, keeping temperature in winter +12 ... + 16 degrees, in summer up to +25 ... + 28 degrees), the rotting spot will spread. It is necessary to observe the plant for 2-3 days. If the stain increases, when you press on it, it gets wet, a viscous substance is released from under the skin - this is bacterial rot. The plant can no longer be saved, it must be removed from other flowers.
A cactus rots on top if it gets frozen in winter... The plant may come into contact with cold glass. If the plant is frozen, it needs to be provided with normal care for wintering. The rotten place is cut out and dried until a dense crust forms on the stem. The plant will no longer regain its former shape, but such a cactus is used to inoculate other ornamental varieties.
To prevent the cactus from rotting in winter from an excess of moisture, high temperature or lack of light, experts recommend organizing special boxes made of polycarbonate or glass, for example, an old aquarium. There you can and should place an artificial backlight lamp. Such boxes are placed as close as possible to the cold glass of the window or taken out to a warmed loggia (a prerequisite: on the loggia the temperature should not fall below +12 degrees. The temperature of the cactus in winter depends on the species. Similar information can be found in the reference literature.) Inside the box- greenhouse, close to the glass window, the average daily temperature in winter will be lower than in the apartment.
The second reason why a cactus rots is an excess of moisture. In most cases, the cactus rots from the bottom. A sure sign - the cactus turns yellow from below. An excess of moisture in the soil is dangerous both in winter when the temperature is low, and in summer when it is hot. Even when it's hot, cacti are watered only after the soil dries out with a large amount of settled, soft water. In winter, watering is generally very rare, since the plant is sleeping at this time.
What if the cactus rots from the bottom? You need to do the following:
1. Remove the plant from the pot, wash it off the soil.
2. Next, cut off the rot down to healthy tissue. You need to cut with a margin, since the micelles of the fungus penetrate even healthy tissues. They are not visible, but after cutting and subsequent rooting, the cactus again begins to rot from below.
3. The stalk of the cactus must be cut on the sides, so the cut should resemble a slightly sharpened pencil.
4. After pruning, the cactus should dry out. You need to dry it in a bright, but protected from sunlight place. The cactus slice is dried until a dense crust is formed on the cut. This may take 1-2 weeks. Some experts dry the cactus until the roots form.
5. The dried cactus must be placed in a small pot of sand. The sand must be dry. Watering is carried out very poorly and through the pallet. The water should be soaked in 1-2 cm of the bottom layer of sand. The plant is kept in a bright place without direct sunlight. In conditions of poor watering (when only the bottom layer of sand is wet), the cactus should take root very quickly.
The thorns of the cactus are falling off. What to do? The first reason why thorns fall off from a cactus is waterlogging of the soil. During the dormant period, when a cold winter is arranged for the plant, the soil in the pot is not watered or watering is very scarce. If you water a cactus abundantly in winter, it starts to rot. One of the signs of waterlogging of a plant is the dropping of thorns, but in most cases the plant turns yellow.
During the period of intensive growth, the cactus consumes a very large amount of water, but it is watered only after the soil in the pot has dried. However, even in summer, you can pour a cactus. For example, a large amount of soil for a small cactus. In this case, moisture accumulates in the soil, which are not occupied by roots. The result is that the roots rot and the thorns fall off. The second case is moderate watering at a low temperature of the content and insufficient lighting. When it is cold and little light (the cactus is located in partial shade), all processes in the plant slow down, including the consumption of moisture. Under such conditions, even moderate watering can lead to rotting of the plant. His thorns begin to fall off. A sure sign of insufficient lighting - the cactus is stretching.
Another reason why cactus needles fall off is the mealybug. A sure sign is a white, cottony bloom on the stem of the plant. Treatment of cactus disease: treatment with actelik according to the recipe attached to the preparation.
The cactus turns yellow at the bottom. What to do? Most cacti with age (mainly from 4 years old) turn yellow at the base. The bottom of the cactus coarsens and becomes covered with a cork bloom, which has a yellow-brown color. This is the norm if there are no ulcers under the cork bloom and the bottom of the cactus has not become soft. Otherwise, rot develops on the plant.
White bloom on the cactus. What is it? This is a mealybug - a whitish arthropod of a round shape. It settles in the root zone of the plant. If the mealybug is severely affected, it can be seen between the ribs of the cactus. A sure sign is a white coating that looks like flour. At the same time, the stems slow down their growth, become depleted, and lose their color. Disease control measures: spray the stem with Aktara (solution concentration 4 g of the drug per 5 liters of water) and water the soil (concentration of 1 g of the drug per 10 liters of water). Carry out the processing 4 times with an interval of 7-10 days.
Spots appeared on the cactus. Spots on a cactus can be of very different nature. So, the most harmless spots that cover a cactus are sunburn spots. They appear if a plant that was previously located in partial shade is brought out in direct sunlight. The second option is when forest plants are brought out under the scorching sun. How to treat a flower: it must be shaded, sprayed.
The brown spots on the cactus, which look more like rust, are the result of the activity of a spider mite. Even after the cactus is cured of the disease, rust stains remain. With a strong defeat of the plant, a thin cobweb appears. How to Treat Cactus Disease? Treat with drugs, according to the instructions, from the following list: actellic, neoron, fufanon, apollo, oberon.
Overfeeding with fertilizers - the stem cracked.
The causative agents of cactus diseases are bacteria, fungi and viruses. Some diseases can be easily cured, while most cause significant damage to health and lead to the death of plants. Sometimes the symptoms are so imprecise and latent that it is not possible to determine the disease.
Therefore, it is much easier to prevent diseases than to cure the sick, especially when there is not one cactus, but a whole collection. Preventive measures are the strict adherence to plant conditions and hygiene.
Unfortunately, in most cases, cactus diseases end sadly. The plant either dies or will be disfigured. And still, most cactusists are tormented by two questions "why?" and "how to treat".
Even after all the repeated explanations that in most cases the cause of illness is a violation of the conditions of detention, people cannot believe that only from once open (in the evening in cold weather) a window can cover an unfortunate cactus with rusty spots and the like. But in fact it is so. Even an experienced cactus grower suffers losses from his fleeting mistakes. Only compliance with all conditions, attention and prevention can prevent the occurrence of diseases.
The fact that a cactus is "sick" is not always immediately apparent. Most often people forget that:
- opened the window in the evening in cool, windy weather;
- poured cold water on the cactus;
- that any wounds, cracks and cuts should be sprinkled with sulfur or crushed coal;
- to the bright sun, a cactus must be taught gradually, even the most sun-loving;
- that cacti need a cool and dry wintering.
If a cactus is sick, first of all, you need to remember and analyze what could have been violations in the conditions of detention, whether you did everything correctly.
Sometimes illness, pest infestation or care errors are not immediately apparent. How to understand that something is "unwell" for a cactus, something worries him - just be attentive. It is worth worrying about the cactus in such cases:
| External signs | Possible reasons |
|---|---|
| If there is no visible growth of the cactus (only in the spring-summer period) | The lack of plant growth in spring or summer is the first sign of some kind of trouble. The reason for this can be absolutely any: a disease or pests, or a mistake in care - first of all, a lack of light, rearranging the cactus to a new place, incorrect transplantation, watering with cold water, etc. After vaccination, as it is stressful. After too long and intense flowering, growth may also slow down or stop due to depletion of the cactus. |
| If the stem shrinks or shrivels | If the stem is hard to the touch, then first of all, the lack of moisture in the soil should be excluded (i.e. watering, the soil is dry), especially if the cactus is in intense light. If the stem, on the contrary, is soft, then the reason is most likely in excess moisture (the soil is damp), at this stage the plant can rarely be saved, you can try an urgent transplant with the removal of all rotten roots. |
| If there is a change in the color of the stem or leaves | This is a fairly common reaction to changing conditions. When moving a cactus to a new location. When lighting changes (too bright light may cause lightening or reddening of the stem and leaves). When water gets on the stem or leaves (if the plant does not tolerate this). Some cacti genetically have a certain color change with age. In some diseases, the color of the stem and leaves can also change, most often yellowness, browning and mosaic color appear. |
| If there is a shedding of leaves or buds | This may be the first reaction to a stressful situation caused by changes in conditions of detention. Rearranging to a new place, or even because the cactus was turned the other way towards the light source. If lighting, watering, or temperature changes unexpectedly. For example, they poured cold water on them. If the transplant was not carried out on time or correctly. From the discrepancy between micro and macro elements in the soil. It can also happen with diseases or pests. |
| If shoots die off | This occurs most often when the roots are damaged during transplanting or watering with cold water. From a sharp drop in temperature or exposure to a draft. It can also happen with diseases or pests. |
| If various spots or yellowing appear on the skin | This is possible from the ingress of water on the stem or leaves (if the plant does not tolerate this). From exposure to sunlight, an untrained cactus can get sunburn. From exposure to cold air, the formation of rusty spots on the stem is possible. With a lack of nutrients in the soil, yellowing is possible, which disappears after fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. Yellowing or spots also appear with various diseases and pests. |
| If wounds or cracks appear on the cactus | It may howl caused by mechanical injury. With an excess of organic matter in the soil, the cactus grows vigorously, and the skin cracks and bursts. |
| If root damage or decay is found | The cause of root decay should be sought primarily in waterlogging of the soil. Especially with a lack of light and low temperatures. Root decay often begins with the fact that lesions, cuts or wounds on the roots have not been treated with sulfur (which is needed for drying and disinfection). Insufficient soil moisture at high temperature and light can lead not to decay, but to the death of some of the roots. This happens especially often when the pot overheats in the summer in the sun. |
| No flowering or short flowering. | A common reason is a lack of sunlight, no cold wintering (dormant period), any violation of irrigation and temperature regimes. Some cacti, on the other hand, do not bloom due to too intense or prolonged lighting. Incorrect or untimely transplant. Inconsistency in the pH of the soil or its composition. Lack of nutrients in the soil or their excess. Moving the cactus to a new location or turning in place. Disease and pest infestation is also the reason for the lack of flowering. |
Cactus rot
Rot is the most common disease, most often caused by disturbances in care (over-watering, cold wet wintering, etc.). Rot is caused by both fungi and bacteria.
Cactus phytophthora(the causative agent of the fungus Phytophtora cactorum), for example, affects all parts of the plant, especially if there are lesions or wounds, but the root collar is most susceptible to disease. Rot is manifested, as we imagine it in the form of decay and the transformation of tissues into a soggy mass.
Among the rot should be noted Helminthosporiosis(the causative agent is a fungus of the genus Pyrenophora) - a disease of crops - the trunks of the cactus bend and dry out, moreover, in just a few days. Another crop disease - Rhizoctonia (the causative agent of the fungus of the genus Rhizoctonia) or wet rot manifests itself in darkening, blackening of the cactus stem, spreading upward through the vessels. Both diseases can be avoided by disinfecting the land for crops, dressing the seeds, and also avoiding high humidity in the greenhouse.
Should be mentioned as well fusarium(the causative agent is a fungus of the genus Fusarium), which is detected suddenly - the cactus falls, the color of the cactus stem changes (it becomes reddish, brown or purple). If you take the plant out of the pot, its roots break off, they may be completely rotten, depending on the stage. The cactus poison the toxins secreted by the fungi into the vascular system of the plant, which is noticeable on the cut of the stem - a darkened, clearly visible brownish ring.
Treatment of a decayed cactus
If rot affects the root system, then there are two options. The first - if root decay is only partially (at the very initial stage, usually found by chance) - all affected parts of the roots are removed, and the rest are well sprinkled with coal powder or sulfur, and the cactus is planted in fresh soil with a large proportion of sand. Watering only after three weeks is very careful. The second case, when the roots have rotted completely - you can still save the upper part of the stem by rooting it like a cutting. At the same time, part of the stem is cut off so that only healthy strong tissues remain. If decay of the root collar or stem has begun, then only the top of the cactus can be saved by grafting it onto another healthy cactus.
It happens that stem rot begins at the site of a wound on the skin of a cactus. If the place of decay is not yet large, then you can cut out the decayed tissue with a sharp knife, and carefully sprinkle this place with sulfur. If the wound is small, then a scar will remain, and the plant will recover. But if the damage is significant, the cactus will be disfigured.
If decay has occurred at the very top of the cactus, then it must be cut off until healthy tissue, and the cactus should be used as a rootstock for grafting. You can disinfect all wounds on the body of a cactus with charcoal (you can crush a tablet of activated carbon), gray, as well as brilliant green.
If you cut off the top of a cactus for rooting from a diseased plant, then prepare a disinfected substrate that must be completely dry. Dry the cactus stalk in the air for a couple of hours, sprinkle the cut with charcoal powder, then put it on the substrate, do not drip it! Do not fix the low crown of a spherical cactus mono - it will not fall, and if the stalk is unstable, fix it on several sides with large pebbles. It is not necessary to cover the entire substrate with gravel on top, a couple of stones is enough.
You can fix it in another way. Stick a stick firmly into the ground, and tie the handle to it with a woolen thread. After that, do not water the cactus for at least 2 weeks. If the summer is hot, i.e. high air temperature, then instead of watering, the cactus trunk is sprayed from a very fine spray bottle, or only the air around the cutting is pollinated and moistened. After 2 weeks, you can slightly moisten the soil in the pot, not by watering, but by spraying, so that it remains moist for 2-3 hours, then dries out. An untouched stalk can always be picked up and see if new roots have appeared. If they appear, then the cactus should be left alone (no longer raised), and the spraying of the land should be gradually increased.
If you save a cactus by re-rooting a cuttings that has rotted in winter and is in a dormant period, then you will have to place it in growth conditions - the roots will grow back only in warmth and with sufficient lighting. Therefore, if you place a cactus in a warm room, assess whether it has enough light, if necessary, then put a fluorescent lamp next to it. In some apartments, placement even on the southern windowsill is not enough to provide adequate lighting in winter.
Black rot (causative agent of the fungus Alternaria radicina) - when black (dark brown spots) appear on the trunk of a cactus, in the form of streaks, wet, shiny and disgustingly frightening. The disease can spread very quickly. It is necessary to cut out all stains down to healthy tissue. Spray the plant with foundation, Oxyhom or Hom, and dry the cut with sulfur.
Dry rot (the causative agent of the fungus Phoma rostrupii) or Fomoz - in the direct sense of rot is not observed, it is just that it is customary to call this disease. It is dangerous because when it is discovered, it is usually too late. Outwardly, the cactus turns slightly pale, and begins to dry out imperceptibly. If you cut off the stem, the cactus will be dry inside. Since this disease is fleeting and methods of dealing with it have not yet been invented, the plant dies. However, you can prevent disease by doing periodic preventive spraying or watering with a systemic fungicide.
Spotting - their nature is very diverse, most of them are caused by viruses and bacteria, the appearance of which was facilitated by the conditions of detention. This is primarily the effect of a cold draft, especially in winter, or the defeat of a cactus in conditions of high humidity and cool air. One of the varieties of spotting rust- the stem is covered with rusty crusts or streaks. The cause of the onset of the disease can be sunburn and the ingress of water (especially cold) on the stem and a sharp drop in ambient temperature, etc. The bad news is that once these rust spots appear, they start to appear in other places and spread more and more. Sometimes spraying with a fungicide inhibits the further spread of the disease, and sometimes not, Topaz is used as an anti-rust agent. It is completely useless to try to remove crusts or stains; ugly scars remain on these places.
Very often you can notice that having bought, for example, a sick cactus with unidentified spots and putting it at home in a place well-lit by the sun, in a warm place, the spots do not increase, new ones do not appear. This happens often, especially when affected by fungal diseases. Any mushroom does not like the combination of heat (dry air) and light. Once on a sunny windowsill with moderate watering, the cactus recovers on its own.
But if, in a warm, sunny place, reddish or whitish spots appear and creep along the cactus stalk, sometimes similar to mica, then the point is in a tick, which just likes such conditions ...
Brown spot, or anthroknosis(the causative agent is a fungus of the genus Gloeosporium) - in cacti it manifests itself in a completely different way than on other plants. On the stem of a cactus, anywhere, both from the sides and on the crown, spots from light to dark brown appear. The spots are dry, depressed, forming a dry crust. The spots are slowly increasing, covering more and more large areas. Fight in the same way - cutting out the affected areas and treating them with fungicides.
Brown rot (the causative agent of the bacterium Erwinia) - a darkening of the cactus stem occurs, as a rule, from the root collar or from any other place (for example, if there was mechanical damage to the cactus skin and the pathogen got into it). At the same time, the cactus itself becomes soft to the touch, and gradually changes color to dirty brown. After a while, when a cactus breaks, you can see a slimy, jelly-like mass. As a rule, it is not possible to save the cactus - bacteria and their toxins quickly poison the entire plant.
Yellowing - the cause can be either a lack of nutrients in the soil, or a bacterial or viral disease. Yellowing usually begins at the ends of the shoots and the top of the cactus. First of all, you should eliminate the lack of nutrients and feed the cactus with mineral fertilizer - if the reason for this yellowing will pass. General yellowing can also be caused by a virus, the so-called "jaundice", to fight the disease, there is no way. It can pass quickly, or it can last for months or even years. Moreover, if you take an absolutely healthy-looking stalk from an infected plant, then after a while, it will turn out to be covered with yellowing.
Viruses in cacti
Viruses are much less common on cacti than people think. In fact, as in other plants, viruses have characteristic features that allow them to be identified, with the exception of those cases when the body of the cactus is densely covered with thorns and it is impossible to clearly see the manifestation of the pattern. And the pattern in viral diseases is always traced.
As a rule, these are concentric rings, various spots that have a certain sequence of manifestation on the stem, for example, the entire trunk of a cactus seems to be speckled - very similar, as if acid was sprayed on it. Some people think that it is a sunburn after spraying, but it turns out that the plant was not sprayed or it did not stand in the sun. The spots are usually light - there is no chlorophyll in the cells in this place. And only cacti infected with a virus artificially maintained in culture have a solid, beautiful stem color - red, yellow, white, etc. is a genetically fixed disease.
By the way, it is the grafted cacti that are most often affected by viral diseases.
If you have a suspicion that a cactus has contracted a virus, you can try antiviral drugs sold in a human pharmacy, for example, remantadine (1 tablet in half a liter of water).
A case from the life of the forum: "As I saw the hymnocalycium, I bought it right away (although I promised to buy the Dutch). Now I don’t know whether to plant it or throw it away, because, in my opinion, there is nothing to re-root there, since they are relatively small. the roots are all wrinkled and some have some sores. There were five of them in one pot of different colors. Maybe there is nothing to worry about ... "
In fact, these cacti did not grow, although the roots, as you can see in the photo, are healthy. So, in addition to the fact that in a buried cactus, the lower part of the stem can quite naturally lose color (the process of photosynthesis does not go, and it becomes yellowish-brown), in addition, for many species, corking of the lower part is natural due to contact with water, earth and a lack of light, this cactus has a fungal infection, as evidenced by an unevenly spreading yellowing spot, as well as brown crusted spots.
The fact that the roots are healthy gives hope that the plant can be cured, wait for new growth, and then re-root the top to get rid of the deformity. For treatment, you can use Hom, Oxyhom, Fundazol or Chinozol. Dilute the fungicide according to the instructions and bathe the cactus in the solution. Then take a new potting mix, sterilize it (for example, keep it in a very hot oven for about 30 minutes, after that it should be completely dry, cool).
Then plant a cactus and put it under diffused light. After 3-4 days, depending on the air temperature, pour the fungicide solution. Repeat the stem treatments in a week. If the cactus was in a dormant period, you will have to wake it up - move it to a warmer and brighter place, start drip irrigation. In general, cacti are brought out of hibernation by starting regular spraying from a fine spray. But if a fungal or bacterial infection develops on the cactus, spraying can aggravate the problem. Therefore, it is more correct to start watering little by little. Feeding with fertilizers, sprinkling with zircon or epin is also not necessary! Stimulants will not help, and there will be enough nutrients in fresh soil. If there is enough light (you can put additional artificial lighting), treatments have been carried out, such a cactus has a good chance of recovery.
How and how to treat cacti
All rot, blotchiness, fungal or bacterial origin are aggravated in high humidity conditions. Those. any spraying (except for fungicide solutions), wet weather outside, etc. is dangerous at the time of illness. If you, for example, fight flat or spider mites on a cactus by spraying (with or without insecticides), reduce watering! At the same time, temperature is of secondary importance, but the most severe lesions if the plant was in a cool and high humidity.
It is very difficult to establish a fungal or bacterial disease that struck a cactus, most often a fungal infection is still found. Bacterial rot is characterized by the formation of soggy mucus, often with an unpleasant odor (but this is already at the last stage, when the plant is almost all affected) and the transience of the disease. Bacteriosis can literally destroy a plant in a day.
Fungal diseases spread at different rates and depending on the conditions, if cacti are on the balcony and at this time it is rainy weather, then the disease progresses. But even if spots and other types of lesions (darkening at the root collar) do not increase and do not spread further, it is advisable to treat the cactus with a fungicide.
Fungicides work against fungi and bacteria, they are powerless against viruses. Again, there are some specifics. For example, the systemic fungicide "Maxim" is effective against root rot and decay of the root collar.
Some people use such a drug as Fitosporin to fight and prevent rot, it should be noted that it is very unreliable when the plant is already sick. You may not see any improvement, you should only hope for stronger drugs.
When spots and decay appear on the trunk of a cactus, on the side or on the crown, spraying with such preparations as Hom, Oxyhom, Bordeaux mixture, foundationol, topaz is effective. Coloid sulfur helps against some fungal diseases, such as brown spot. It is not diluted in water as it is written in the instructions for use, but the stains are powdered with a paint brush.
Fungicides for the treatment of cacti
Of the chemicals used to treat cactus diseases, Captan- organic fungicide, substitute for Bordeaux liquid, used in the form of a solution (0.3 - 1%) for irrigation and brushing, or in the form of a powder by dusting (insoluble in water). This drug is effective against many fungal and bacterial diseases, but does not work against powdery mildews. It cannot be used with lime (as it hydrolyzes in the presence of alkalis).
They are also used to combat pathogens of various diseases. It is used as a solution (0.005 - 0.1%). They are sprayed or rubbed with a brush on the stems and roots. The working fluid is not stored.
Sulfur- to combat fungal diseases and ticks. Sulfur is an insecticidal fungicide. It is used in the form of an aqueous solution, but sulfur does not dissolve in water, it is only wetted. Therefore, it is more effective to powder the plants with a gray brush.
Quinosol- a preparation for protecting plants from diseases caused by phytopathogenic fungi (contact action fungicide-dressing agent). Available in powder form. Quinosol is used against fungal and bacterial rot. If you have not found this drug in a gardening store, you will find it at the pharmacy. For humans, quinosole is marketed as an antimicrobial agent. It is necessary to crush the tablet into powder and dissolve it thoroughly in 1/2 glass of water. Moisten the cactus trunk with this solution and water the soil under the root. Can also be used for soil disinfection and seed dressing. The working fluid is not stored.
Maxim- a preparation for protecting plants from diseases, a disinfectant. Used for seed dressing and soil disinfection (from fusarium, phomosis, wet rot, etc.). The difficulty may be that root rot appears from waterlogging and unnecessary watering, albeit with Maxim's solution, is impossible - you need to let the soil dry thoroughly. Dilute 4 ml of the drug in 50-100 ml, spill the soil with this solution, soak the seeds, and also moisten the trunk and leaves of the cactus with a brush or spray. The duration of the action of the drug is about 10 weeks after treatment. The working fluid is not stored.
Topaz - the drug is used to protect against powdery mildew and rust. 1 ampoule is diluted with 5 liters of water. The duration of the action is about 2 weeks. At least 3 treatments are required.
Hom(copper oxychloride) - a means of combating diseases (late blight, macrosporiosis, brown spot, anthracnose, rust, various bacteriosis and spotting). One of the most effective drugs against diseases of cacti, succulents and other plants. Diluted with 20 g of powder in 5 liters of water. Spraying is repeated as needed up to 5-6 times. The duration of the drug is about 2 weeks. The working solution is not stored.
Fitosporin- biofungicide for plant protection against fungal and bacterial diseases. In fact, this drug is effective only in the initial stage of the disease. The opinion of many growers: it should be used only when there is no other fungicide at hand and for soil treatment after sterilization by heat treatment - i.e. as prevention. To prepare the solution, the paste on the tip of a knife is diluted with 1 teaspoon of water. Then take 4-5 drops in a glass of water and water the ground or spray the plant.
It saves seedlings from diseases by treating seeds and disinfecting the soil before planting cacti (seeds and adult plants). If it is enough to thoroughly steam the soil against pests, warm it up in a microwave oven, in an oven, in steam, then it is not always effective against fungi and bacteria, and freezing is completely useless.
Therefore, it is advisable to spill the steamed soil before sowing seeds, transplanting cacti with a solution of a fungicide, for example, foundation or quinosol. After that, of course, let it dry.
Emergency surgery.How to save a rotten cactus?
External signs of cactus disease, which should alert you and encourage you to study the specimen in more detail.
The cactus "turned pale", the epidermis began to turn yellow and stopped shining.
The cactus has shrunk badly, especially if it occurs during the growing season with normal watering.
The cactus squinted to one side.
Spots appeared on the cactus (wet, dry, depressed, corky, different in color from the color of the cactus epidermis.)
A sort of "dent" appeared on the cactus, on one side more often closer to the upper part of the stem.
Stopping growth and shedding in season with normal care and provided that this species should grow at this time! (I explain, there are species for which it is completely normal to fall into a state of dormancy in the middle of the season when the weather is especially hot. These include ailosters, rebuces, etc.)
Also, an indirect sign of withering away or decay of cactus roots may be a long-drying soil in a pot. This is especially striking when you have several cacti watered at the same time. For example, after a week, under all the cacti, the soil is already dry, and in one pot the soil remains wet, as if it had just been watered. This suggests that the cactus, for some reason, "does not drink" water. On examination, it often turns out that such a cactus root problems.
Treating a sick cactus
Rotting cactus without external signs
The first thing to do is to exclude all watering and not even spray the diseased cactus. Treatment of all cactus sores is based on the removal of the affected areas and their subsequent drying. This is where a scalpel from first aid kits cactusist ... The next step when« somethingnot that with a cactus ”, but there are no clearly pronounced signs so far - this is taking the patient out of the pot and examining the roots if any are found. If the roots are no longer there, then follow the instructions below and immediately proceed to pruning for .
In nOrme cactus roots should be grayish - white, not crumbling or breaking.Are your cactus roots in good order? Then you here. Rusty-yellow and raspberry-brown spots indicate the presence of a fungal infection on the roots of a cactus. To cure a sick cactus, do the following.
All roots with signs of damage are cut off with a clean and sharp scalpel or knife. We look at the cuts, if the cuts on the roots are not white, but with red dots or blotches (photo on the left), i.e.
we cut further and so on to a healthy place. It happens that this process endsXia almost at the top of the cactus ........... If he stopsbe humane and do not cut off the damaged parts, the process will resume and you will most likely lose the cactus. Therefore, even if you removed all the roots up to the root collar, but spots or dots remain ... continue to cut yourself cactus... Cut that
In small even circles, (well, almost like cutting a cucumber for a salad), the first clean, green, undamaged cut will not appear (photo 1). Now we make a control cut with a clean disinfected knife and remove the lateral areoles (the places from which the thorns grow) That is, in fact, we "sharpen" the remainder of the cactus, like a pencil (photo 2). If this seemingly strange procedure 
do not commit, the place of the cut during drying and scarring will be drawn as if inside the cactusand it will be very difficult for him to take root (photo 3). It will be impossible to put such a stalk of a cactus on the ground, it will not reach with the cambial ring (the central part of the cactus from which the "correct" roots grow) to the ground and will have to be planted on a "mound".Moreover, the likelihood increases that the "retracted" part of the cactus will begin to develop
I am unwanted, harmful fungi that can cause rotting of even healthy cactus cuttings.This is always very inconvenient and is suitable for those cases when after pruning, in fact, only the top of the cactus remains and there is simply nothing to "sharpen". Such tops are usually rarely able to take root on their own and need to, but we'll talk about this another time.
External signs of cactus decay.
Another example of cactus decay. In this case, the signs of the disease are already on the face, although they are not pronounced. With a cursory examination and a certain lack of experience, the lesion focus can easily be overlooked. In this case, a mixed infection (late blight + fusarium) on the lateral process of the mammillaria. The photographs below (photo 4,5,6) were taken from different angles so that you could better understand what a rotted area of a cactus looks like. What do we see when we examine a cactus? A slight change in color, the green epidermis lost its luster, darkened and began to give brownishness. The distance between the papillae was greatly reduced, so that the thorns almost stuck to each other, the baby mammillaria seemed to shrink. For comparison, pay attention to the healthy cactus babies on the left and right in the photo, they look completely different.
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| photo 4 | photo 5 | photo 6 |
The process became soft to the touch, areoles with spines fall off at the slightest touch (photo 7). After removing the decayed process (photo 8), it is found that the lesions go deep into the body of the cactus (photo 9).
Intense pink is the natural base color of the mammillaria. Yet reddish - yellow dots, spots and specks- these are the areas affected by the fungus that you need be sure to cut even if you have to cut the floor of the cactus to do this. Otherwise, as already mentioned above, decay will continue.Do not forget to wipe the scalpel or knife more often with a swab dipped in alcohol or vodka, since the tool also transfers fungal spores to healthy parts of the cactus during subsequent cuts.
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| photo 7 | photo 8 | photo 9 |
Yellow "dots", which are actually the affected part of the vascular - conducting system of the cactus, are especially dangerous. By removing all large foci of decay, but leaving such a "point", you will allow the fungus to reach the very top of the cactus and ditch it. If the cut is already clean, but there are a couple of "dots" left, then in order not to cut too much, you can try to cut only them directly (like the eyes on a potato).
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| photo 10 | photo 11 |
After the surgical intervention, the cactus received a hefty hole in the side, which must be sprinkled with crushed coal (photo 10.11). In the case of this cactus, the inspection of the roots was not required, but if during cutting it turned out that the rot had spread to the root collar (you will immediately notice this, the lesions will be below the ground level), then removing from the pot and inspecting the roots is necessary. Now a patient with mammillaria needs complete dryness, warmth and time to heal the damage. High air humidity is unacceptable.
The case history of this mammillaria ended well. Hefty hole in the side 
successfully healed and over the past few years has overgrown with a fair number of children who completely closed the defect. The cactus is alive, healthy and continues to delight me with flowering.
In addition. Consider, even if you did everything right, this does not mean 100% that the cactus will survive. Therefore, if your patient has children (shoots) on him, then it makes sense to play it safe and separate one of them from the mother plant (preferably away from the place of decay), for subsequent rooting, so as not to lose this type of cactus in the collection.
Rooting cactus cuttings
And the last phase of the rescue operation. Sprinkle the slice crushedsmoked coal,
which is an excellent disinfectant.In principle, even without coal, a cactus can perfectly heal, moreover, I do not always do this procedure, so as not to worsen the possibility of inspecting a cactus cut for secondary decay. In some cases, charcoal dusting is vital, for example, for cuttings, the cut surface of which turns out to be excessively wet, when the cactus simply exudes juice. In this case, coal additionally also absorbs excess moisture preventing the development of pathogenic fungi on the cut surface, which, under the condition of increased humidity
Indoors, even a perfectly healthy stalk taken for rooting can attack to replenish the collection of cacti.
Put the cactus, verticalflax into any suitable glass or something similar, so that the cut does not come into contact with the bottom and walls of the container (photos 1a and 2a) and leave in a warm place. You can simply leave the cactus in an inverted position, cut up, it will perfectly "stand" on its own thorns, but this method is suitable for small cuttings of cacti. This is necessary in order to be "wounded
I am part of the cactus was aired and dried all the time. Now all that remains is to wait when the cactus is thoroughlythe trimmed part dries up and cork tissue formsb (callus). This process can take from several days to two weeks or more, there is a direct relationship "size - time". The less is left of the cactus, the less viable it is and the faster it will be necessary to try to root it anew. Conversely, the larger the cactus, the longer it will dry out to the required state and be able to remain without food,without much harm to yourself. 
The main thing is not to go too far. Hurry up too much - the cactus can rot again, overexpose - it will not have enough strength to take root. A dried cactus stalk is placed on a light, loose, slightly moist soil. They put it! Do not buried or buried, as this can cause decay. For stability can be overlaid with pebbles. The pot with the handle is left in a warm, well-lit place, but without direct sunlight. Further care of the cactus is
in periodic spraying with warm water.
Possible problems when rooting cactus cuttings.
Be patient and wait, rooting can take place quite a bit, from a couple of weeks to several months. Very tiny cuttings, the size of a pea, take root most quickly, although for such cacti - babies and care should be more careful. If necessary, I root such crumbs in a mini-greenhouse for seedlings, where the temperature is about 22 - 25 degrees, artificial lighting and a pot with a shank covered with a glass to prevent overdrying. I usually put it slightly tilted on one side, so that there would be a gap for air circulation. This does not cancel ventilation! A couple of times a day, the glass should be removed for 20 - 30 minutes. Large cuttings of cacti from 5 - 7 cm. And more for 2 - 3 months, and sometimes more can be in the thought "Take roots - do not take roots?".
The season also plays an important role in the rooting of a cactus cuttings. The hardest thing is the processin autumn and winter when the cactus is in a state of stagnation.It is during these seasons that the most often defenseless, sleepy cactus is subjected to a vicious attack by fungi and bacteria, and as a result, it needs to be re-rooted for an hour. On a cold windowsill, with a low level of illumination and a short daylight hours, the chances of successful rooting of a cactus cuttings are greatly reduced (especially for small cuttings) and spraying and moistening of the soil in this case should be almost excluded. If possible, it is necessary to create more "spring - summer" conditions for the rooted cuttings. Lighting 12 - 14 hours a day at a temperature of about 20 - 22 degrees, will serve as a stimulus for the awakening of the cactus and trying to release the roots. But alas, this is not a panacea and works somewhere in 70 - 80%. Almost 100% survival rate of a rotten cactus or part of it can be achieved byon another cactus, most often Echinopsis. But even here, not without problems, firstly, you need to master the vaccination technique, and secondly ... to have an "extra" echinopsis at hand ( Echinopsis) suitable in size, which will be beheaded by you in order to save your dying brother.
I strongly recommend that you inspect the rooted cactus stalk about once a week for secondary decay or the appearance of mold, the same happens if you overdo it with spraying. Since the cuttings of a cactus for rooting are simply placed on the ground (with the exception of cereus and similar tall cacti with a small diameter, a slight deepening into the ground is permissible here), it is enough to slightly wiggle the cactus with tweezers to understand whether it is rooted or not. If it does not hold onto the ground, then lift it up and inspect the cut surface. Cut dry and clean - place the cactus back on the ground. If there are signs of decay, re-process the cutting as described. (cut, sprinkle with charcoal, dry) and put the root again, but now on Dry rooting, that is, absolutely dry soil and no spraying until the waiting roots appear (see photo below). If there is mold (more often it happens on improperly sharpened cuttings, photo 3 on page above, in the section ), then sprinkle the cut with charcoal, dry the cutting for a couple of hours, put it back on the ground and reduce the frequency of spraying.
On photos 
on the left, a properly sharpened and dried cactus stalk, which has released adventive roots from the cambial ring (in other words, embryonic or waiting roots), from which a full-fledged, healthy cactus root system will develop in the near future. These cactus roots are very fragile and must be handled with care.
Use a suitable potting mix. For most cacti of desert origin, a mixture of two parts of garden soil, two parts of coarse sand and one part of peat is suitable. This mixture is water permeable and does not harden when dried.
Only water the cactus when the soil is dry. To check soil moisture, press down 2–3 centimeters with your finger. If the soil is completely dry, water the cactus liberally and let the excess water drain out through the hole in the bottom of the pot.
Consider the time of year when watering. Cacti require varying amounts of moisture during growth and dormancy periods. From March to September, when the growing season lasts, water them on average once a month. During the dormant period, from October to February, cacti should be watered less often, no more than once a month.
Provide the plant with enough light. Most cacti require a lot of sunlight. Keep the cactus outside in the summer and keep it out of rain. To prevent sunburn, first place the cactus in a sufficiently shaded area, and then gradually move it to a lighter area. In winter, keep the cactus by a south or west window to get enough light.
Monitor room temperature. In winter, during the dormant period, cacti prefer a lower temperature. However, be careful to keep the cacti out of drafts - do not place them near loosely closed windows or on the floor near doors. In winter, the optimum night temperature is 7-16 ° C, so during this period it is better to keep the cacti in cool semi-basements.
Transplant the cactus into larger pots as it grows. As soon as the cactus grows so much that there is a danger of overturning the pot, or 2-3 centimeters remain from the plant to the edge of the pot, it should be transplanted. Use a standard potting mix: two parts garden soil, two parts coarse sand and one part peat.
- When replanting, make sure that the soil level is the same as in the old pot.
Trim off dead roots. With excessive watering, when the roots are in moist, poorly drained soil for a long time, they often begin to rot. When replanting, remove the cactus along with the roots from the old pot and carefully clean them of the soil. Examine the root system and trim away soft, blackened and dried roots. Prune close to where the living root begins.
Do not replant cactus with damaged roots right away. If, after removing from an old pot, the root system of the cactus is damaged, or you have to cut off dead roots, keep the cactus out of the soil for about ten days. During this time, nodules are formed in the damaged areas and in the places of the cuts. Just lay the plant down on a piece of paper so that it is not exposed to direct sunlight or cold temperatures.
It is generally accepted that cacti are the easiest plants to care for. As if even an inexperienced florist can grow a thorny pet without any problems. After all, he shows with all his appearance: "I am a strong and healthy plant, diseases are not mine, I will overcome pests." Believing this green "optimistic hedgehog", many, without hesitation for a long time, acquire a plant. And after a while they run into problems. It turns out that their prickly pet can also get sick. At first, they don't pay attention to diseases: the cactus is so harsh and strong. And only when the patient is more likely dead than alive, treatment is started. Alas, it is often too late. How to prevent the development of cactus diseases, what to pay attention to when caring for this plant and how to help if it becomes ill? First, create conditions for a comfortable stay. Secondly, do not disturb the irrigation regime. Third, watch your pet carefully. And when the first suspicious symptoms appear, immediately take measures to save the plant.
Experienced indoor plant lovers know that a cactus, despite its harsh appearance and thorns, is rather delicate and vulnerable. To avoid health problems, first of all, it is necessary to create favorable conditions. The best microclimate will be as close as possible to that to which the plant is accustomed to in its historical homeland. If we are talking about cacti, we must immediately make a reservation: they are divided into desert and forest. Outwardly, with rare exceptions, they are completely different from each other, in nature they have adapted to live in different conditions. And at home, the microclimate for the inhabitants of the desert and the inhabitants of the tropics needs a different one.
Desert dwellers
You can easily recognize them by their fleshy stems, which can be of different sizes and the most bizarre shape: resembling a ball, a column, a column, a pancake, a caterpillar. Most desert cacti do not have leaves; in the process of evolution, they atrophied, turning into thorns. This helped to reduce the evaporation area. The only exception that only confirms the rule is that the leaves have grown and do without the thick stem of the pereskii. All desert cacti have spines, hard or soft (like hairs), long or short, sparse or dense.
Desert cacti are striking in their diversity, but you can easily recognize close "relatives" in them
All desert dwellers love the same conditions. The most important thing is a lot of light, especially in winter. They have nothing against direct sunlight, although in the summer heat it is hard for a cactus, it is better to shade the plant. The soil needs light, loose, moisture-permeable. Humidity will be pleasant to moderate or low (40-50%). The air temperature in winter should be cool, 15-18 o C. Most varieties (except for pubescent ones) will tolerate "frosts" of about 5 o C. without damage to themselves.
In winter, cacti hibernate. This is another prerequisite for maintaining health and harmonious development. During the dormant period, your "hedgehogs" do not want to drink at all, watering is needed rare and meager. With the beginning of spring, it is gradually increased, bringing it back to normal by summer. By mid-autumn, watering is again limited. Give water warm and soft.
Inhabitants of the tropics
Forest cacti, living in the tropics and subtropics, are mainly epiphytic plants, in nature they can live on trees. They are distinguished by dense, fleshy stems, consisting of segments similar in shape to leaves. And the main decoration of a forest cactus is flowers. At home, epiphyllums, zygocactus, ripsalidopsis and ripsalis are grown.
Aporocactus, belonging to the forest, has the habits of the desert. But the rest require special conditions for a healthy life. They like light bright, but diffused. They will like the substrate airy and light, slightly acidic. The temperature is moderate (22–25 о С), during the rest period - cool (15–17 о С).
Hibernation time for each species is different. Zygocactus rests from January to March. Rhipsalidopsis - in September-February, the epiphyllum "takes leave" for the whole winter. Since the plants are quite similar, this is a good criterion for identifying them.
The irrigation regime depends on the life cycle; only soft, lukewarm water is used. In hibernation, it is rare and scarce, during the laying of buds, flowering and active growth, it is abundant. But all forest cacti, regardless of the season, prefer tropical high humidity (70% or more).
A typical representative of forest cacti is epiphyllum; it is quite difficult to suspect even a distant relationship with desert cacti
The main condition for the health of a cactus is compliance with the conditions of detention. Even a slight deviation can lead to disease. They poured cold water on it, opened the window in the frost, where the plant stands, and a week later some spots appeared on it. If you ignore these symptoms, you can lose the cactus altogether. With them, as with other living things, the disease is easier to prevent than to cure.
Mandatory prevention
Some cactus diseases do not respond to treatment. But they can be prevented. Prevention for the health of a pet is not only compliance with the conditions of detention, but also hygiene. You don't need to wash your hands before watering the plant. And it is highly desirable to provide phytosanitary control at the entrance to the apartment. What does it mean?
Before making a purchase, carefully examine the cactus; at the slightest damage and suspicious marks on the skin, refuse to purchase
Even if, in your opinion, the plant is absolutely healthy, do not flatter yourself. Problems may appear later. Don't put a beginner with the rest of the cacti. Keep it isolated for at least a month. Only after quarantine "introduce" him to the rest of the neighbors on the windowsill.
Before planting, the soil must be sterilized by exposing it to cold, steam or heat
Desert and forest cacti can suffer from the same diseases, but there are differences. For example, in epiphytic plants, the root system is poorly developed, so it is not affected by the root nematode and root worm. Desert cacti are not so often harmed by slugs, they hardly break through the thorns and dense skin.
Table: mealybug, aphids and other diseases and pests affecting plants
Diagnose and save the plant
If the appearance of the cactus has changed not for the better, development has stopped, analyze the possible reasons. And then you can determine what happened. These could be care errors or illness. External symptoms will help diagnose and treat the prickly patient. It happens that help came too late. Then the autopsy will show what is the cause of the disease. And you will be able to save other plants living in the house. So, what does a cactus look like when it is unwell and what happens to it?
Table: why the roots turn black and rot, the stem withers, the plant dries up, spots appear, white bloom, mold and other problems
Pay attention to cactus injuries. Mechanical damage (cracks, wounds, cuts) are not terrible in themselves. This is the gateway for infection. If the wound is not treated, the cactus can become infected and become seriously ill. Be sure to disinfect the damaged area by sprinkling it with activated carbon, crushed chalk or colloidal sulfur powder, and dry it. During the healing process, the area will be covered with a layer of dead cells, and then healed. If there is nothing at hand, ordinary iodine or brilliant green will do.
Diseases of cacti caused by fungi and bacteria: how to recognize and how to deal with them
The fleshy "body" of a cactus is a kind of pantry for storing nutrients and moisture. In such an environment, pathogenic fungi, bacteria and viruses actively multiply. Sometimes an inexperienced cactus grower himself contributes to the fact that his plant becomes a "dining room" for harmful microorganisms. Waterlogging of the soil and air, especially in winter, non-observance of the temperature regime, contaminated land are factors that help to spread various types of rot. And these are the most dangerous diseases of cacti.
Table: fungal and bacterial diseases of cacti and their treatment
Photo gallery: diseases of cacti
Brown rot is treatable only in the early stages of the development of the disease. The most dangerous is helminthosporosis for young cacti and seedlings grown from seeds. cacti It is rather difficult to notice the dry rot that has begun to develop in a timely manner The fungus that causes late blight most often penetrates into the tissues of the cactus through "wounds" caused by mechanical damage to the skin. The development of fusarium is often provoked by the grower himself, abundantly watering cacti that do not need it
When rot has struck the root system, there are two methods of control:
The use of some fungicides
Fungicide preparations are the most effective remedy against fungal diseases
Diseases caused by metabolic and nutritional disorders
What other diseases do cacti have? These are noncommunicable diseases that are caused by care errors. The most common are chlorosis, etiolation, deficiency or excess of macro- and microelements.
Chlorosis is a violation of the process of photosynthesis. Cactus stems discolor, turn yellow, white spots appear on them. Treat the plant with Fitoverm several times at intervals of 3-4 days. Feed your cactus. For prevention, spray with iron chelate (Antichlorosin). Some growers advise to bury a rusty nail in the ground to provide the soil with this trace element.
Chlorosis-affected cactus turns yellow completely or partially
Etiolation is a light deficiency disease. If a cactus lacks it, it stretches ugly and becomes discolored. Place the plant on a sunny side, add artificial lighting in winter.
Insect pests
Insects also like to feast on fleshy, juicy cacti. The main pests of cacti are nematodes, aphids, spider mites, mealybugs, and scale insects. During summer holidays in the garden, cacti can be attacked by slugs and snails.
Aphids on cacti are not uncommon, despite their strong skin.
Still, most cacti are in excellent health. Problems and infections arise when the owner of the green "hedgehog" neglects the rules of caring for the plant. And then for a long time he does not notice the SOS signals that his pet is transmitting. If you create acceptable conditions for the cactus, observe the watering regime, give it a rest in winter, your "thorn" will not only live happily ever after, but will also delight you with wonderful flowers. And this is one of the best awards for a cactus grower.
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