Cacti: diseases and their treatment. Emergency help for cacti Zeko cactus is losing leaves what to do
It is generally accepted that cacti are the easiest plants to care for. As if even an inexperienced florist can grow a prickly pet without any problems. After all, he shows with his whole appearance: “I am a strong and healthy plant, diseases are not mine, I will overcome pests.” Having believed this green "optimistic hedgehog", many, without hesitation for a long time, acquire a plant. But after a while they run into problems. It turns out that their prickly pet can get sick too. At first, they do not pay attention to diseases: the cactus is so harsh and strong. And only when the patient is more dead than alive, treatment begins. Alas, it is often too late. How to prevent the development of cactus diseases, what to look for when caring for this plant and how to help if it becomes ill? First, create conditions for a comfortable stay. Secondly, do not disturb the irrigation regime. Thirdly, carefully observe your pet. And when the first suspicious symptoms appear, immediately take measures to save the plant.
Experienced indoor plant lovers know that the cactus, despite its harsh appearance and thorns, is quite tender and vulnerable. So that he does not have health problems, first of all, it is necessary to create favorable conditions. The best will be the microclimate, as close as possible to that to which the plant is accustomed in its historical homeland. If we are talking about cacti, we must immediately make a reservation: they are divided into desert and forest. Outwardly, with rare exceptions, they are completely different from each other; in nature they have adapted to live in different conditions. And at home, the microclimate for the inhabitants of the desert and the inhabitants of the tropics needs a different one.
desert dwellers
You can easily recognize them by their fleshy stems, which can be of different sizes and the most bizarre shape: resembling a ball, column, column, pancake, caterpillar. Most desert cacti do not have leaves; in the process of evolution, they atrophied, turning into thorns. This helped to reduce the evaporation area. The only exception that only confirms the rule is pereskia that has grown leaves and does without a thick stem. All desert cacti have spines, hard or soft (like hairs), long or short, sparse or thick.
Desert cacti are striking in their diversity, but you can easily recognize close “relatives” in them.
All desert people love the same conditions. The most important thing is a lot of light, especially in winter. They have nothing against direct sunlight, although in the summer heat it is hard for a cactus, it is better to shade the plant. The soil needs light, loose, moisture-permeable. Humidity like moderate or low (40-50%). The air temperature in winter should be cool, 15–18 o C. Most varieties (except for pubescent ones) will endure “frosts” of about 5 o C without prejudice to themselves.
In winter, cacti hibernate. This is another prerequisite for maintaining health and harmonious development. During the dormant period, your "hedgehogs" do not want to drink at all, watering is needed rare and scarce. With the beginning of spring, it is gradually increased, bringing it back to normal by the summer. By mid-autumn, watering is again limited. Let the water be warm and soft.
Tropical people
Forest cacti, living in the tropics and subtropics, are mainly epiphytic plants; in nature, they can live on trees. They are distinguished by dense fleshy stems, consisting of segments similar in shape to leaves. And the main decoration of the forest cactus is flowers. At home, epiphyllums, zygocactus, ripsalidopsis and ripsalis are grown.
Aporocactus, which belongs to the forest, has the habits of the desert. But the rest require special conditions for a healthy life. They like bright, but diffused light. The substrate they like is airy and light, slightly acidic. The temperature is moderate (22–25 o C), during the dormant period it is cool (15–17 o C).
Hibernation time for each species is different. Zygocactus rests from January to March. Ripsalidopsis - in September-February, the epiphyllum "takes a vacation" for the whole winter. Since the plants are quite similar, this is a good criterion for identifying them.
Irrigation mode depends on the life cycle, use only soft, lukewarm water. In hibernation, it is rare and scarce, during budding, flowering and active growth - plentiful. But all forest cacti, regardless of the season, prefer tropical high humidity (70% or more).
A typical representative of forest cacti is epiphyllum; it is rather difficult to suspect even a distant relationship with desert cacti
The main condition for the health of a cactus is compliance with the conditions of detention. Even a slight deviation can lead to illness. They poured cold water on it, opened the window in the frost where the plant stands, and a week later some spots appeared on it. If you ignore these symptoms, you can lose the cactus altogether. With them, as with other living beings, the disease is easier to prevent than to cure.
Mandatory prevention
Some cactus diseases are not treatable. But they can be prevented. Prevention for the health of a pet is not only compliance with the conditions of detention, but also hygiene. It is not necessary to wash your hands before watering the plant. And it is highly desirable to provide phytosanitary control at the entrance to the apartment. What does it mean?
Before you make a purchase, carefully inspect the cactus; at the slightest damage and suspicious marks on the skin, refuse to purchase
Even if, in your opinion, the plant is absolutely healthy, do not flatter yourself. Problems may show up later. Do not put the beginner with the rest of the cacti. Keep him isolated for at least a month. Only after quarantine "introduce" him to the rest of the neighbors on the windowsill.
The soil must be sterilized before planting by exposing it to cold, steam or heat.
Desert and forest cacti may suffer from the same diseases, but there are differences. For example, in epiphyte plants, the root system is poorly developed, so it is not affected by the root nematode and root worm. Desert cacti are not so often harmed by slugs, they hardly make their way through thorns and dense skin.
Table: mealybug, aphids and other diseases and pests that affect plants
Diagnose and save the plant
If the appearance of the cactus has not changed for the better, development has stopped, analyze the possible reasons. And then you can figure out what happened. It can be errors in care or diseases. External symptoms will help diagnose and prescribe treatment for a prickly patient. Sometimes help comes too late. Then an autopsy will show what the cause of the disease is. And you will be able to save other plants living in the house. So, what does an unwell cactus look like and what happens to it?
Table: why the roots turn black and rot, the stem wilts, the plant dries, spots appear, white bloom, mold and other problems
Pay attention to cactus injuries. Mechanical damage (cracks, wounds, cuts) is not terrible in itself. This is the gateway to infection. If the wound is not treated, the cactus can become infected and become seriously ill. Be sure to disinfect the damaged area by sprinkling it with activated charcoal, crushed chalk or colloidal sulfur powder, and dry it. During the healing process, the area will be covered with a layer of dead cells, and then it will heal. If there is nothing at hand, ordinary iodine or brilliant green will do.
Diseases of cacti caused by fungi and bacteria: how to recognize and how to deal with them
The fleshy "body" of the cactus is a kind of pantry for storing nutrients and moisture. Pathogenic fungi, bacteria and viruses actively multiply in such an environment. Sometimes an inexperienced cactus grower himself helps to ensure that his plant becomes a "dining room" for harmful microorganisms. Waterlogging of the soil and air, especially in winter, non-compliance with the temperature regime, contaminated land are factors that help spread various types of rot. And these are the most dangerous diseases of cacti.
Table: fungal and bacterial diseases of cacti and their treatment
Photo gallery: cactus diseases
Brown rot can be treated only in the early stages of the development of the disease. Helminthosporosis is most dangerous for young cacti and seedlings grown from seeds. The most common cause of rust is drops of cold hard water that fall on the cactus during irrigation. cacti It is rather difficult to notice the dry rot that has begun to develop in time. The fungus that causes late blight most often penetrates into the tissues of the cactus through “wounds” caused by mechanical damage to the skin. The development of fusarium often provokes the florist himself, abundantly watering cacti that do not need it
When the rot has hit the root system, there are two methods of struggle:
Application of some fungicides
Fungicide preparations - the most effective remedy against fungal diseases
Diseases caused by violation of metabolic processes and nutrition
What other diseases do cacti have? These are non-communicable diseases that result from care errors. The most common are chlorosis, etiolation, deficiency or excess of macro- and microelements.
Chlorosis is a violation of the process of photosynthesis. Cactus stems become discolored, turn yellow, white spots appear on them. Treat the plant with Fitoverm several times with an interval of 3-4 days. Feed the cactus. For prevention, spray with iron chelate (Antichlorosin). Some flower growers advise burying a rusty nail in the ground to provide the soil with this trace element.
A cactus affected by chlorosis turns completely or partially yellow
Etiolation is a disease of light deficiency. If the cactus lacks it, it stretches ugly, discolors. Put the plant on the sunny side, add artificial lighting in winter.
insect pests
Insects also love to eat fleshy, juicy cacti. The main pests of cacti are nematodes, aphids, spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects. Slugs and snails can attack cacti during summer holidays in the garden.
Aphids on cacti are not uncommon, despite the strong skin.
And yet, most cacti are distinguished by excellent health. Problems and infections arise when the owner of the green "hedgehog" neglects the rules for caring for the plant. And then for quite a long time he does not notice the SOS signals that his pet transmits. If you create acceptable conditions for the cactus, observe the watering regime, give it a rest in the winter, your "thorn" will not only live happily ever after, but will also delight you with wonderful flowers. And this is one of the best rewards for a cactus grower.
Overfeeding with fertilizers - the stem cracked.
The causative agents of diseases of cacti are bacteria, fungi and viruses. Some diseases can be easily cured, while most cause significant damage to health and lead to the death of plants. Sometimes the symptoms are so inaccurate and occur in a latent form that it is not possible to determine the disease.
Therefore, it is much easier to prevent diseases than to cure the sick, especially when the cactus is not one, but a whole collection. Preventive measures are strict observance of the conditions of maintenance and hygiene of plants.
Unfortunately, in most cases, cactus diseases end sadly. The plant either dies or will be mutilated. And still, most cactusists are tormented by two questions "why?" and "how to treat".
Even after all the repeated explanations that in most cases the cause of illness is a violation of the conditions of detention, people cannot believe that just from opening the window once (in the evening in cold weather) the unfortunate cactus can become covered with rusty spots and the like. And in fact it is. Even an experienced cactus grower suffers losses from his fleeting mistakes. Only compliance with all conditions, attention and prevention can prevent the occurrence of diseases.
The fact that the cactus is "sick" is not always immediately visible. Most often they forget that:
- opened the window in the evening in cool, windy weather;
- watered the cactus with cold water;
- that any wounds, cracks and cuts should be sprinkled with sulfur or crushed coal;
- the cactus must be accustomed to the bright sun gradually, even the most sun-loving;
- that cacti need a cool and dry wintering.
If the cactus got sick, first of all you need to remember and analyze what could be violations in the conditions of detention, whether you did everything right.
Sometimes a disease, pest damage, or the result of care errors is not immediately visible. How to understand that something is "unwell" for a cactus, something is bothering him - just be careful. It is worth worrying about a cactus in such cases:
| External signs | Possible reasons |
|---|---|
| If there is no visible growth of the cactus (only in the spring-summer period) | The lack of plant growth in spring or summer is the first sign of some kind of trouble. There can be absolutely any reason for this: a disease or pests, or a mistake in care - first of all, a lack of light, rearranging a cactus to a new place, an incorrect transplant, watering with cold water, etc. After vaccination, as it causes a stressful situation. After too long and intense flowering, a slowdown or cessation of growth may also occur due to the exhaustion of the cactus. |
| If shrinkage or wrinkling of the stem occurs | If the stem is hard to the touch, then first of all it is necessary to exclude the lack of moisture in the soil (i.e. watering, the soil is dry), especially if the cactus is in intense light. If the stem, on the contrary, is soft, then the reason is most likely an excess of moisture (the soil is damp at the same time), at this stage the plant can rarely be saved, you can try an urgent transplant with the removal of all rotten roots. |
| If there is a change in the color of the stem or leaves | This is a fairly common reaction to changing conditions. When moving a cactus to a new location. When the light changes (if the light is too bright, lightening or reddening of the stem and leaves may occur). When water gets on the stem or leaves (if the plant does not tolerate it). Some cacti are genetically based on a certain color change with age. In some diseases, the color of the stem and leaves can also change, most often yellowness, browning and mosaic coloring appear. |
| If leaves or buds drop | This may be the first reaction to a stressful situation caused by changes in conditions of detention. Rearranging to a new place, or even because the cactus was turned on the other side to the light source. If the lighting, watering or temperature suddenly changes. For example, poured cold water. If the transplant is not carried out on time or not correctly. From the discrepancy between micro and macro elements in the soil. It can also happen with diseases or pests. |
| If shoots die off | This occurs most often when the roots are damaged during transplantation or watering with cold water. From a sharp drop in temperature or exposure to a draft. It can also happen with diseases or pests. |
| If various spots or yellowing appear on the skin | This is possible from water getting on the stem or leaves (if the plant does not tolerate it). From exposure to sunlight, an unaccustomed cactus can get sunburn. From exposure to cold air, the formation of rusty spots on the stem is possible. With a lack of nutrients in the soil, yellowing is possible, which disappears after fertilizing with mineral fertilizer. Yellowing or spots also appear with various diseases and pests. |
| If wounds or cracks appear on the cactus | This may be caused by mechanical injury. With an excess of organic matter in the soil, the cactus grows vigorously, and the skin cracks and bursts. |
| If damage or rotting of the roots is found | The cause of root rot should be sought primarily in waterlogging of the soil. Especially with a lack of light and low temperature. Root rot often begins with the fact that damage, cuts or wounds on the roots have not been treated with sulfur (which is needed for drying and disinfection). Insufficient soil moisture at high temperature and light can lead not to decay, but to the death of part of the roots. Especially often this happens when the pot overheats in the summer in the sun. |
| No flowering or short flowering. | A common reason is lack of sunlight, lack of cold wintering (rest period), any violation of watering and temperature regimes. Some cacti, on the contrary, do not bloom due to too intense or prolonged lighting. Incorrect or untimely transplantation. Soil pH or composition mismatch. Lack of nutrients in the soil or their excess. Rearranging the cactus to a new location or turning in place. Diseases and pests are also the reason for the lack of flowering. |
cactus rot
Rots are the most common diseases, most often caused by violations in care (excessive watering, cold wet wintering, etc.). Rots are caused by both fungi and bacteria.
cactus late blight(pathogen fungus Phytophtora cactorum), for example, affects all parts of the plant, especially if there are damage or wounds, but the root neck is most susceptible to disease. Rottenness manifests itself, as we imagine it to ourselves in the form of decay and the transformation of tissues into a sour mass.
Among the rots it should be noted Helminthosporiasis(causative fungus of the genus Pyrenophora) - a disease of crops - the stems of cacti are bent and dry out, moreover, in just a few days. Another disease of crops - Rhizoctonia (causative fungus of the genus Rhizoctonia) or wet rot manifests itself in darkening, blackening of the cactus stem, spreads upward through the vessels. Both diseases can be avoided by disinfecting the soil for crops, dressing the seeds, and avoiding high humidity in the greenhouse.
It should also be mentioned fusarium(pathogen fungus of the genus Fusarium), which is detected suddenly - the cactus falls, the color of the cactus stem changes (it becomes reddish, brown or purple). If you take the plant out of the pot, its roots break off, may be completely rotten, depending on the stage. The cactus is poisoned by toxins secreted by fungi into the vascular system of the plant, which is noticeable on the cut of the stem - a darkened, clearly visible brownish ring.
Treatment of a rotten cactus
If the rot affects the root system, then there are two options. The first - if the rotting of the roots is only partially (in the very initial stage, usually detected by chance) - all affected parts of the roots are removed, and the rest are well sprinkled with coal powder or sulfur, and the cactus is planted in fresh soil with a large proportion of sand. Watering only after three weeks is very careful. The second case, when the roots are completely rotted, you can still save the upper part of the stem by rooting it like a cutting. At the same time, part of the stem is cut off so that only healthy, strong tissues remain. If the rotting of the root neck or stem has begun, then only the top of the cactus can be saved by grafting it onto another healthy cactus.
It happens that stem rot begins at the site of the wound on the skin of the cactus. If the place of decay is not yet large, then you can cut out the rotten tissue with a sharp knife, and carefully sprinkle this place with sulfur. If the wound is small, then a scar will remain, and the plant will recover. But if the damage is significant, the cactus will be disfigured.
If rotting occurred at the very top of the cactus, then it must be cut down to healthy tissue, and the cactus should be used as a stock for grafting. You can disinfect all wounds on the body of a cactus with charcoal (you can crush an activated charcoal tablet), gray, and also brilliant green.
If you are cutting the top of a rooting cactus from a diseased plant, then prepare a disinfected substrate that must be completely dry. Dry the cactus stalk for a couple of hours in the air, sprinkle the cut with charcoal powder, then put it on the substrate, do not drop it! Do not fix the low top of a spherical cactus mono - it will not fall, and if the stalk is unstable, fix it from several sides with large pebbles. It is not necessary to fill the entire substrate with gravel from above, a couple of stones are enough.
It can be fixed in another way. Stick a stick firmly into the ground, and tie the stalk to it with a woolen thread. After that, do not water the cactus for at least 2 weeks. If there is a hot summer, i.e. high air temperature, then instead of watering the cactus trunk is sprayed from a very small spray gun, or only the air around the cutting is pollinated and moistened. After 2 weeks, you can lightly moisten the soil in the pot not by watering, but by spraying, so that it remains moist for 2-3 hours, then dries. You can always pick up a stalk that has not been dug up and see if new roots have appeared. If they appear, then the cactus should be left alone (no longer raised), and the spraying of the earth should be gradually increased.
If you save a cactus that has rotted in winter and is in a dormant period by re-rooting a cutting, then you will have to place it in growth conditions - the roots will grow only in warmth and with sufficient light. Therefore, if you place a cactus in a warm room, evaluate whether it has enough light, if necessary, then put a fluorescent lamp next to it. In some apartments, placement even on the southern windowsill is not enough to provide full lighting in winter.
Black rot (causative fungus Alternaria radicina) - when black (dark brown spots) appear on the trunk of a cactus, in the form of streaks, wet, shiny and disgustingly frightening. The disease can spread very quickly. It is necessary to cut all stains down to healthy tissue. Spray the plant with foundationazole, Oxyhom or Hom, and dry the cut points with sulfur.
Dry rot (pathogen fungus Phoma rostrupii) or Phomosis - in the direct sense of rotting is not observed, it is just customary to call this disease. It is dangerous because when it is discovered, it is usually too late. Outwardly, the cactus turns slightly pale, and begins to dry out imperceptibly. If you cut the stem, the cactus will be dried inside. Since this disease is transient and methods of dealing with it have not yet been invented, the plant dies. However, the disease can be prevented by periodic preventive spraying or watering with a systemic fungicide.
Spotting - their nature is very diverse, most of them are caused by viruses and bacteria, the appearance of which was facilitated by the conditions of detention. This is primarily the effect of a cold draft, especially in winter, or the defeat of a cactus in conditions of high humidity and cool air. One of the varieties of spotting rust- the stem is covered with rusty crusts or stains. The cause of the appearance of the disease can be sunburn and the ingress of water (especially cold) on the stem and a sharp drop in ambient temperature, etc. The bad thing is that once they appear, these rust spots start to appear in other places and spread more and more. Sometimes spraying with a fungicide inhibits the further spread of the disease, and sometimes not, Topaz is used as an anti-rust agent. It is completely useless to try to remove crusts or spots on these places, ugly scars remain.
Very often you can see that having bought, for example, a diseased cactus with unidentified spots and, putting it at home in a place well lit by the sun, in a warm place, the spots do not increase, new ones do not appear. This happens often, especially when affected by fungal diseases. Any mushrooms do not like the combination of heat (dry air) and light. Once on a sunny windowsill with moderate watering, the cactus recovers on its own.
But if reddish or whitish spots appear and spread along the stem of a cactus in a warm sunny place, sometimes looking like mica, then it’s a tick that likes such conditions ...
Brown spotting, or anthracnose(causative fungus of the genus Gloeosporium) - in cacti it manifests itself completely differently than in other plants. On the stem of the cactus, spots from light to dark brown appear anywhere, both on the sides and on the crown. The spots are dry, depressed, forming a dry crust. The spots slowly increase, capturing more and more large areas. Fight the same way - cutting out the affected areas and treating with fungicides.
Brown rot (pathogen bacterium Erwinia) - darkening of the cactus stem, usually from the root collar or from any other place (for example, if there was mechanical damage to the skin of the cactus and the pathogen got into it). At the same time, the cactus itself becomes soft to the touch, and gradually changes color to a dirty brown. After some time, when the cactus breaks, you can see a slimy, jelly-like mass. As a rule, it is not possible to save the cactus - bacteria and their toxins quickly poison the entire plant.
Yellowing - the cause can be either a lack of nutrients in the soil, or a bacterial or viral disease. Yellowing usually starts at the ends of the shoots and the top of the cactus. First of all, you should eliminate the lack of nutrients and feed the cactus with mineral fertilizer - if the reason for this yellowing passes. General yellowing can also be caused by a virus, the so-called "jaundice", there is no way to fight the disease. It can pass quickly, or it can last for many months and even years. Moreover, if you take an absolutely healthy-looking stalk from an infected plant, then after a while, it will turn out to be covered with yellowing.
Viruses in cacti
Viruses are much less common on cacti than people think. In fact, as on other plants, viruses have characteristic features that allow them to be identified, except in cases where the body of the cactus is densely covered with spines and it is impossible to clearly see the manifestation of the pattern. A pattern in viral diseases can always be traced.
As a rule, these are concentric rings, various spots that have a certain sequence of manifestation on the stem, for example, the entire trunk of a cactus is as if speckled - very similar, as if acid had been splashed on it. Some think it's sunburn after spraying, but it turns out the plant was not sprayed or exposed to the sun. The spots are usually light - in this place there is no chlorophyll in the cells. And only artificially cultivated cacti infected with a virus have a solid beautiful stem color - red, yellow, white, etc. is a genetically fixed disease.
By the way, it is grafted cacti that are most often affected by viral diseases.
If you suspect that the cactus has contracted a virus, you can try the use of antiviral drugs sold in a pharmacy for people, for example, rimantadine (1 tablet per half liter of water).
A case from the life of the forum: “As soon as I saw the hymnocalycium, I bought it right away (although I promised not to buy the Dutch). Now I don’t know whether to plant it or throw it away, because, in my opinion, there is nothing to re-root there, since they are comparatively small. the roots are all wrinkled and some of them have some kind of sores. There were five of them in one pot of different colors. Maybe there is nothing to worry about ... "
In fact, these cacti did not grow, although the roots, as you can see in the photo, are healthy. So, besides the fact that in a dug cactus, the lower part of the stem can quite naturally lose color (the process of photosynthesis does not go on, and it becomes yellowish-brown), in addition to the fact that for many species corking of the lower part is natural due to contact with water, earth and lack of light, this cactus has a fungal infection, as evidenced by an unevenly spreading yellowing spot, as well as brown spots-crusts.
The fact that the roots are healthy gives hope that the plant can be cured, wait for new growth, and then re-root the top to get rid of the ugliness. For treatment, you can use Hom, Oksihom, Fundazol or Chinozol. Dilute the fungicide according to the instructions and bathe the cactus in the solution. Then take a new soil mixture, sterilize it (for example, stand for about 30 minutes in a very hot oven, after which it should be completely dry, cool).
Then plant a cactus and put it under diffused light. After 3-4 days, depending on the air temperature, pour over the fungicide solution. Repeat the treatment on the stem in a week. If the cactus was in a dormant period, it will have to be awakened - rearranged to a warmer and brighter place, start drip irrigation. In general, cacti are brought out of hibernation by starting regular spraying from a fine sprayer. But if a fungal or bacterial infection has developed on the cactus, spraying can exacerbate the problem. Therefore, it is better to start watering little by little. Feeding with fertilizers, spraying with zircon or epin is also not necessary! Stimulants will not help, and there will be enough nutrients in fresh soil. If there is enough light (you can put additional artificial lighting), the treatments are carried out, such a cactus has a good chance of recovering.
How and how to treat cacti
All rot, spotting, fungal or bacterial origin is aggravated in conditions of high humidity. Those. any spraying (with the exception of fungicide solutions), wet weather outside, etc. is dangerous at the time of illness. If you, for example, control flat or spider mites on a cactus by spraying (with or without insecticides), cut back on watering! The temperature in this case is of secondary importance, but the most severe lesions if the plant was in cool and high humidity.
It is very difficult to establish a fungal or bacterial disease that struck a cactus, most often a fungal infection occurs. Bacterial rots are characterized by the formation of sour mucus, often with an unpleasant odor (but this is already at the last stage, when the plant is almost completely affected) and the transience of the disease. Bacteriosis can literally destroy a plant in a day.
Fungal diseases spread at different speeds and, depending on the conditions, if the cacti are on the balcony and at that time it is rainy, the disease progresses. But even if the spots and other types of lesions (darkening at the root collar) do not increase and do not spread further, it is advisable to treat the cactus with a fungicide.
Fungicides work against fungi and bacteria, they are powerless against viruses. Again, there are specifics. For example, the Maxim systemic fungicide is effective for root rot and root collar rot.
Some use a drug such as Fitosporin to fight and prevent rot, it should be noted that it is not very reliable when the plant is already sick. You may not see any improvement, you should only hope for stronger drugs.
When spots and decay appear on the trunk of a cactus, on the side or on the crown, spraying with such preparations as Hom, Oksihom, Bordeaux mixture, fundazol, topaz is effective. Coloidal sulfur helps against some fungal diseases, such as brown spot. It is not diluted in water as written in the instructions for use, but the stains are dusted with a brush for drawing.
Fungicides for the treatment of cacti
Of the chemicals used to treat cactus diseases, Kaptan- an organic fungicide, a substitute for Bordeaux liquid, used as a solution (0.3 - 1%) for irrigation and brushing, or as a powder by dusting (insoluble in water). This drug is effective against many fungal and bacterial diseases, but does not work against powdery mildew fungi. It cannot be used with lime (because it hydrolyzes in the presence of alkalis).
Also used - to combat pathogens of various diseases. It is used as a solution (0.005 - 0.1%). They are sprayed or rubbed with a brush stems and roots. The working fluid is not stored.
Sulfur- to combat fungal diseases and ticks. Sulfur is an insect fungicide. It is used in the form of an aqueous solution, but sulfur does not dissolve in water, it is only wetted. Therefore, it is more effective to dust the plants with a gray brush.
Chinosol- a preparation for protecting plants from diseases caused by phytopathogenic fungi (contact action fungicide-protectant). Available in powder form. Chinosol is used against fungal, as well as bacterial rot. If you do not find this drug in the gardening store, you will find it in the pharmacy. For humans, quinosol is marketed as an antimicrobial agent. You need to crush the tablet into powder and dissolve it thoroughly in 1/2 cup of water. Moisten the cactus trunk with this solution and pour the soil under the root. Can also be used for soil disinfection and seed dressing. The working fluid is not stored.
Maksim- a preparation for protecting plants from diseases, a disinfectant. Used for dressing seeds and disinfecting the soil (from fusarium, phomosis, wet rot, etc.). The difficulty may be that root rot appears from waterlogging and excessive watering, albeit with Maxim's solution, is impossible - you need to let the soil dry thoroughly. Dilute 4 ml of the drug in 50-100 ml, shed the soil with this solution, soak the seeds, and moisten the trunk and leaves of the cactus with a brush or spray. The duration of the drug is about 10 weeks after treatment. The working fluid is not stored.
Topaz - the drug is used to protect against powdery mildew and rust. 1 ampoule is diluted in 5 liters of water. The duration of action is about 2 weeks. At least 3 treatments are required.
Hom(copper oxychloride) - a means of combating diseases (late blight, macrosporiosis, brown spotting, anthracnose, rust, various bacterioses and spotting). One of the most effective drugs against diseases of cacti, succulents and other plants. Diluted 20 g of powder per 5 liters of water. Spraying is repeated as needed up to 5-6 times. The duration of the drug is about 2 weeks. The working solution is not stored.
Fitosporin- biofungicide to protect plants from fungal and bacterial diseases. In fact, this drug is effective only in the initial stage of the disease. Opinion of many growers: should be used only when no other fungicide is on hand and for soil treatment after sterilization by heat treatment - i.e. as prevention. To prepare the solution, the paste on the tip of the knife is diluted with 1 teaspoon of water. Then take 4-5 drops in a glass of water and water the ground or spray the plant.
Saves seedlings from diseases by seed dressing and soil disinfection before planting cacti (seeds and adult plants). If it is enough to thoroughly steam the soil against pests, warm it up in a microwave oven, in an oven, on water vapor, then this is not always effective against fungi and bacteria, and freezing is completely useless.
Therefore, it is advisable to shed the steamed earth before sowing seeds, transplanting cacti with a solution of a fungicide, for example, foundationazole or chinosol. After that, of course, let it dry.
Emergency surgery.How to save a rotten cactus?
External symptoms of cactus disease, which should alert you and encourage you to study the instance in more detail.
The cactus "turned pale", the epidermis began to turn yellow and stopped shining.
The cactus has shriveled a lot, especially if it happens during the growing season with normal watering.
The cactus squinted to one side.
Spots appeared on the cactus (wet, dry, depressed, corked, different in color from the color of the cactus epidermis.)
A kind of “dent” appeared on the cactus, on the one hand, more often closer to the top of the stem.
Stopping growth and dropping in season with normal care and provided that this species should be growing at this time! (To be clear, there are species that are perfectly normal to go dormant in the middle of the season when the weather is especially hot. These include Ailosters, Rebutias, etc.)
Also, an indirect sign of dying or cactus root rot may be a long-term non-drying soil in a pot. This is especially striking when you have several cacti watered at the same time. For example, after a week, under all the cacti, the soil is already dry, and in one pot the soil remains wet, as if it had just been watered. This suggests that for some reason the cactus "does not drink" water. On examination, it often turns out that such a cactus root problems.
Treatment of a sick cactus
Rotting cactus without external signs
The first thing to do is to exclude all watering and not even spray the diseased cactus. The treatment of all cactus sores is based on the removal of the affected areas and their subsequent drying. This is where the scalpel comes in handy. cactusist first aid kits . The next step when« somethingwith a cactus is not the case, ”but there are no clearly expressed signs yet - this is the removal of the patient from the pot and the study of the roots, if any, are found. If there are no more roots, then follow the instructions below and immediately proceed to pruning for .
V nOrme, the roots of the cactus should be grayish - white in color, not crumble or break.Are your cactus roots okay? Then you here. Rust-yellow and crimson-brown spots indicate the presence of a fungal infection. on cactus roots. To cure a sick cactus, we proceed as follows.
With a clean and sharp scalpel or knife, all roots with signs of damage are cut off. We look at the sections, if the sections on the roots are not white, but with red dots or inclusions (photo on the left), t
o cut further and so on to a healthy place. It happens that this process endsalmost at the top of the cactus ........... If it stopsIf you are humane and do not cut off the damaged parts, then the process will resume and you will most likely lose the cactus. Therefore, even if you have removed all the roots up to the root collar, and spots or dots remain ..... continue to cut yourself Cactus. cut that
in thin even circles (well, almost like cutting a cucumber for a salad) until the first clean, green, undamaged slice appears (photo1). Now we make a control cut with a clean, disinfected knife and remove the lateral areoles (the places from which thorns grow) That is, in fact, we “sharpen” the rest of the cactus like a pencil (photo 2). If this seemingly strange procedure 
do not commit, the place of the cut during drying and scarring will be drawn in, as it were, inside the cactusand it will be very difficult for him to take root (photo 3). It will be impossible to put such a cutting of a cactus on the ground;Moreover, the probability increases that in the "retracted" part of the cactus,
I am unwanted, harmful fungi that can cause even a healthy cactus cutting to rot.This is always very inconvenient and is suitable for those cases when, after trimming, in fact only the top of the cactus remains and there is simply nothing to “sharpen”. Such crowns are usually rarely able to take root on their own and needbut we'll talk about that another time.
External signs of rotting cactus.
Another example of rotting cactus. In this case, the signs of the disease are already on the face, although they are not pronounced. With a cursory examination and a certain inexperience, the lesion can easily be overlooked. In this case, a mixed infection (phytophthora + fusarium) on the lateral process of mammillaria. The photos below (photos 4,5,6) were taken from different angles so that you can better understand what a rotted area of \u200b\u200bthe cactus looks like. What do we see when examining a cactus? A slight change in color, the green epidermis lost its luster, darkened and began to turn brown. The distance between the papillae was greatly reduced, so that the spines almost stuck to each other, the Mammillaria baby seemed to shrink. For comparison, pay attention to healthy cactus babies on the left and right in the photo, they look completely different.
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| photo 4 | photo 5 | photo 6 |
The process became soft to the touch, the areolas with spines fall off at the slightest touch (photo 7). After removal of the decayed shoot (photo 8), it is found that the lesions go deep into the body of the cactus (photo 9).
The intense pink color is the natural color of the mammillaria base. Yet red - yellow dots, spots and specks- these are areas affected by the fungus that need to be be sure to cut , even if it means cutting out the floor of the cactus. Otherwise, as already mentioned above, rotting will continue.Do not forget to wipe the scalpel or knife more often with a swab dipped in alcohol or vodka, as the tool also transfers fungal spores to healthy parts of the cactus during subsequent cuts.
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| photo 7 | photo 8 | photo 9 |
Yellow "dots", which are actually the affected part of the vascular - conducting system of the cactus, are of particular danger. By removing all the large foci of decay, but leaving such a "point", you will allow the fungus to get to the very top of the cactus and ruin it. If the cut is already clean, but there are a couple of “dots” left, then in order not to cut too much, you can try to cut only them directly (like eyes on a potato).
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| photo 10 | photo 11 |
After the surgical intervention, the cactus received a hefty hole in the side, which must be sprinkled with crushed coal (photo 10.11). In the case of this cactus, inspection of the roots was not required, but if during cutting it turned out that the rot had spread to the root neck (you will immediately notice this, the lesions will be below ground level), then removing from the pot and inspecting the roots is necessary. Now sick Mammillaria needs complete dryness, warmth and time to heal the damage. High humidity is unacceptable.
The case history of this mammillaria ended well. Hefty hole in the side 
successfully healed and over the past few years has acquired a fair amount of children who completely closed the defect. The cactus is alive, healthy and continues to delight me with flowering.
In addition. Please note that even if you did everything right, this does not mean 100% that the cactus will survive. Therefore, if your patient has children (shoots) on him, then it makes sense to play it safe and separate one of them from the mother plant (preferably away from the place of decay), for subsequent rooting, so as not to lose this type of cactus in the collection.
Rooting cactus cuttings
And the last phase of the rescue operation. Slice powder crushedcoal,
which is an excellent disinfectant.In principle, even without coal, a cactus can heal perfectly, moreover, I do not always do this procedure, so as not to worsen the possibility of inspecting a cactus cut for secondary decay. In some cases, charcoal powder is vital, for example, for cuttings, the cut surface of which turns out to be excessively wet, when the cactus simply comes out with juice. In this case, coal additionally absorbs excess moisture preventing the development of pathogenic fungi on the cut surface, which, under conditions of high humidity
indoors, they can attack even a perfectly healthy cutting taken for rooting, to replenish the collection of cacti.
Put a cactus, verticalflax into any suitable glass or something similar, so that the cut does not come into contact with the bottom and walls of the container (photos 1a and 2a) and leave in a warm place. You can just leave the cactus upside down with the cut up, it will perfectly “stand” on its own thorns, but this method is suitable for small cuttings of cacti. This is necessary in order to "wound
I am part of the cactus was aired and dried all the time. Now it remains only to wait for the cactus to thoroughlythe cut part dries out and corky tissue is formedb (callus). This process can take from several days to two weeks or more, there is a direct relationship "size - time". The less left of the cactus, the less viable it is and it will be necessary to quickly try to root it again. And vice versa, the larger the cactus, the longer it will dry up to the required state and is able to remain without food,without much damage to yourself. 
The main thing is not to go too far. Hurry too much - the cactus can rot again, overdo it - it will not have enough strength to take root. The dried cactus stalk is placed on a light, loose, slightly moist soil. They put it! Do not bury or bury, as this can cause decay. For stability, you can overlay pebbles. The pot with the cutting is left in a warm, well-lit place, but without direct sunlight. Further care for the cactus is
in periodic spraying with warm water.
Possible problems with rooting cactus cuttings.
Be patient and wait, rooting can take quite a while, from a couple of weeks to several months. Very tiny cuttings, the size of a pea, take root most quickly, though for such cacti - babies and care should be more thorough. If necessary, I root such crumbs in a mini greenhouse for seedlings, where the temperature is about 22 - 25 degrees, artificial lighting and the pot with the handle is covered with a glass to prevent overdrying. I usually put it a little tilted to one side, so that there would be a gap for air circulation. It doesn't change ventilation! A couple of times a day, the glass should be removed for 20-30 minutes. Large cuttings of cacti from 5 - 7 cm or more for 2 - 3 months, and sometimes more, can be in thought "To take root - not to take root?".
An important role in the rooting of the cactus cuttings is played by the time of year. The hardest process isin autumn and winter when the cactus is in a state of stagnation.It is during these seasons that the most often defenseless, sleepy cactus is attacked by vicious fungi and bacteria, and as a result, it needs to be re-rooted under an hour. On a cold windowsill, with a low level of illumination and a short daylight hours, the chances of a successful rooting of a cactus cutting are greatly reduced (especially for small cuttings) and spraying and moistening the soil in this case should be almost excluded. If possible, it is necessary to create more “spring-summer” conditions for the rooted cutting. Lighting 12 - 14 hours a day at a temperature of about 20 - 22 degrees, will serve as a stimulation to awaken the cactus and try to release the roots. But alas, this is not a panacea and works somewhere in 70 - 80%. Almost 100% survival of a rotten cactus, or part of it, can be achieved byon another cactus, most often echinopsis. But even here it’s not without problems, firstly, you need to master the technique of vaccination, and secondly ...... have an “extra” echinopsis at hand ( Echinopsis) suitable in size, which will be beheaded by you for the sake of saving a dying brother.
I strongly recommend inspecting a rooted cactus stalk about once a week for secondary decay or mold, the same happens if you overdo it with spraying. Since cactus cuttings for rooting are simply placed on the ground (the exceptions are cereus and similar high cacti with a small diameter, a slight penetration into the ground is acceptable here), it is enough to slightly move the cactus with tweezers to understand whether it is rooted or not. If it does not hold on to the ground, then lift it up and inspect the cut surface. The cut is dry and clean - put the cactus back on the ground. If there are signs of decay, reprocess the cutting as described. (cut, sprinkle with charcoal, dry) and set to root again, but now on "dry" rooting, that is, absolutely dry soil and no spraying until waiting roots appear (see photo below). If there is mold (it often happens on improperly sharpened cuttings, photo 3 on the page above, in the section ), then sprinkle the cut with charcoal, dry the stalk for a couple of hours, put it back on the ground and reduce the frequency of spraying.
On photos 
on the left, a properly sharpened and dried cactus stalk, which has released adventitious roots from the cambial ring (in other words, rudimentary or waiting roots), from which a full-fledged, healthy cactus root system will develop in the near future. These cactus roots are very fragile and must be handled with care.
Consider the main diseases of cacti and their treatment. Most often, cacti are affected by a spider mite, a variety of rot, viral infections, the stem is covered with brown spots. The cactus rots due to waterlogging of the soil, in some cases it is a fungal infection, spotting is also the result of waterlogging of the soil in a pot, but it is also caused by viruses. Brown spots are the result of a burn or viral infection of the stem. Spider mite is the result of dry air and insufficient watering.
So, cactus diseases and their treatment with a photo and a detailed explanation from specialists. What to do if the cactus is rotting, stained or turning yellow?
Cactus diseases due to improper plant care
Why did the cactus begin to rot and turn yellow? In this case, it is necessary to pay attention to the conditions of the plant. So, the cactus rots if it is arranged with the wrong wintering.
The first reason why the cactus starts to rot from below is an improperly organized wintering.. In temperate latitudes, cacti arrange a cold wintering. This is a temperature of +12 ... +15 degrees, a large amount of light and a minimum of moisture. Why do cacti need a cold winter? The explanation is simple: in the conditions of an ordinary apartment, with the onset of winter, it is difficult to organize the necessary care for the plant. This is a high temperature, the length of the daylight hours is above 14 hours. With a lack of sunlight, a short daylight hours and a high temperature of content, the cactus is gradually depleted and begins to wither and rot. In addition, during the dormant period (during the cold wintering from November to March), the cactus lays flower buds. A rested plant produces many young shoots and grows intensively with the onset of spring.
The second reason why a cactus rots is an excess of moisture.. It is very easy to pour a cactus during the dormant period, and even in hot summer. In winter, the plant is not watered; in summer, the soil in the pot should dry out between waterings. An excess of moisture is also not tolerated by those cacti whose homeland is the desert, and those that grow in the forest and are accustomed to a humid climate.
Sometimes the cactus rots from above. It could be bacterial rot. In this case, even under good conditions (moderate watering, daylight hours 14 hours, temperature in winter +12 ... + 16 degrees, in summer up to +25 ... + 28 degrees), the rot spot will spread. It is necessary to observe the plant for 2-3 days. If the stain increases, when you press it, it gets wet, a viscous substance is released from under the skin - this is bacterial rot. The plant can no longer be saved, it must be removed from other flowers.
Cactus rots from above if it is frozen in winter. The plant may come into contact with cold glass. If the plant is frozen, it needs to provide normal care for wintering. The rotten place is cut out and dried until a dense crust forms on the stem. The plant will no longer restore its former shape, but such a cactus is used for grafting other ornamental varieties.
So that the cactus does not rot in winter from an excess of moisture, high temperatures or lack of light, experts recommend organizing special boxes made of polycarbonate or glass, for example, an old aquarium. There you can and should put a lamp of artificial illumination. Such boxes are placed as close as possible to the cold glass of the window or taken out to the insulated loggia (a prerequisite: the temperature on the loggia should not fall below +12 degrees. The temperature of the cactus in winter depends on the type. Similar information can be found in the reference literature.) Inside the box - greenhouses, close to the window glass, the average daily temperature in winter will be lower than in the apartment.
The second reason why a cactus rots is an excess of moisture. In most cases, the cactus rots from below. A sure sign - the cactus turns yellow from below. An excess of moisture in the soil is dangerous both in winter when the temperature is low, and in summer when it is hot. Even when it's hot, cacti are watered only after the soil dries out with plenty of settled, soft water. In winter, watering is generally very rare, since the plant is sleeping at this time.
What to do if the cactus rots from below? You need to do the following:
1. Remove the plant from the pot, wash off the soil.
2. Next, cut off the rot down to healthy tissue. You need to cut with a margin, since the micelles of the fungus penetrate even into healthy tissues. They are not visible, but after cutting and subsequent rooting, the cactus again begins to rot from below.
3. The cactus stem must also be cut off on the sides, so the cut should resemble a slightly sharpened pencil.
4. After pruning, the cactus should dry out. You need to dry in a bright place, but protected from sunlight. Dry the cut of the cactus until a dense crust forms on the cut. This may take 1-2 weeks. Some experts dry the cactus until the roots form.
5. Dried cactus must be placed in a small pot of sand. The sand must be dry. Watering is carried out very sparsely and through the pan. Water should be saturated with 1-2 cm of the bottom layer of sand. The plant is kept in a bright place, but without direct sunlight. In conditions of poor watering (when only the bottom layer of sand is wet), the cactus should take root very quickly.
The spines of the cactus fall off. What to do? The first reason why the spines fall off the cactus is waterlogging of the soil. During the dormant period, when a cold wintering is arranged for the plant, the soil in the pot is not watered or the watering is very poor. If the cactus is watered abundantly in winter, it begins to rot. One of the signs of overmoistening of the plant is the fall of the thorns, but in most cases the plant turns yellow.
During the period of intensive growth, the cactus consumes a very large amount of water, but it is watered only after the soil in the pot has dried. However, even in summer you can pour a cactus. For example, a large amount of soil for a small cactus. In this case, moisture accumulates in the soil, which are not occupied by roots. The result is that the roots rot and the spines fall off. The second case is moderate watering at a low temperature of maintenance and insufficient lighting. When it is cold and there is little light (the cactus is located in partial shade), all processes in the plant slow down, including moisture consumption. Under these conditions, even moderate watering can lead to rotting of the plant. His spines are starting to fall off. A sure sign of insufficient lighting is that the cactus is stretching.
Another reason why cactus needles fall off is a mealybug. A sure sign is a white, cottony coating on the stem of the plant. Treatment of cactus disease: treatment with aktelik according to the recipe attached to the drug.
The cactus turns yellow underneath. What to do? Most cacti with age (mainly from 4 years old) turn yellow at the base. The bottom of the cactus becomes coarse and covered with a cork coating, which has a yellow-brown color. This is the norm if there are no ulcers under the cork coating and the bottom of the cactus has not become soft. Otherwise, rot develops on the plant.
The cactus has a white coating. What's this? This is a mealybug - a whitish rounded arthropod. It settles in the root zone of the plant. With a strong defeat of the mealybug can be seen between the ribs of the cactus. A sure sign is a white coating that looks like flour. At the same time, the stems slow down their growth, become depleted, and lose their color. Measures to combat the disease: spray the stem with Aktara (solution concentration of 4 g of the drug per 5 liters of water) and water the soil (concentration of 1 g of the drug per 10 liters of water). Processing is carried out 4 times with an interval of 7-10 days.
There are spots on the cactus. Spots on a cactus can have a very different nature. So, the most harmless spots that cover a cactus are sunburn spots. They appear if the plant, which was previously located in partial shade, is taken out under direct sunlight. The second option is when forest plants are taken out under the scorching sun. How to treat a flower: it must be shaded, sprayed.
Brown spots on the cactus that look more like rust are the result of the activity of the spider mite. Even after the cactus is cured of the disease, the rust spots remain. With a strong defeat of the plant, a thin cobweb appears. How to treat cactus disease? Treat with preparations, according to the instructions, from the following list: actellik, neoron, fufanon, apollo, oberon.
blooming cactus
Many inexperienced cactus growers for sure face two problems: rotting cacti and drying them out. This happens, as a rule, due to improper care of the succulent.
Cacti are by no means as simple as people far from the topic think, therefore Problems emerging when growing cacti put newbies off guard.Everything in order:
rotting cactus
rot cactus usually starts from within and from the roots. This is not always immediately noticeable to the naked eye. It happens that a grower sees a healthy plant, while a disease already lives inside it. Days pass, the cactus trunk becomes soft to the touch, changes color from green to gray or yellow, begins to scroll in the pot, or loses its balance and falls. Stopping growth can be a sign of decay. If the roots rot, then the soil does not dry out for a long time.
What is the reason? Most often, this turns out to be incorrect watering. The main rule for watering cacti, and any succulents: do not overwater! In the summer and spring months, they can be watered once a week, and even less in the winter. In the winter months, cacti hibernate, their metabolic processes are reduced to a minimum. If it is hot enough in the apartment, at the location of the cactus pot - above fifteen degrees, you can water the plant once a month. If the room temperature is ten to fifteen degrees, you don’t need to water the cactus in winter at all.
Also, the cause of decay of both the roots and the stem of the plant can be a number of specific to cacti diseases caused by fungi and bacteria. This:
Gray soft rot that affects the lateral parts of the stem. It is expressed in the transformation of plant tissues into gruel, covered with a gray coating - mycelium.
Helminthosporous wet rot - the stem is covered with watery brown spots.
Rhizoctonia is a wet rot that affects crops.
Alternariosis, or black rot - is expressed in the form of black "streaks" on the trunks of cacti.
Phomosis, dry rot - the cactus dries out. In the case of a cut, a cavity is observed inside.
Brown rot - the cactus changes its color, becoming jelly-like from the inside.
Drying cactus
Cacti lose their size, shrivel, become easily mobile in a pot, and finally, visually look withered.
In case this is not dry rot caused by a fungus Phoma rostrupin, for the sake of the prevention of which plants can be sprayed with a fungicide, the reasons, most likely, lie again in the wrong conditions.
Oddly enough, cacti are not too fond of direct sunlight and extreme heat. This plant can exist without water for a long time, but not forever. It still needs to be watered, especially in summer.
Resuscitation and treatment of cactus
Whatever the cactus did not suffer from diseases, whatever his prickly sides were not covered with spots, resuscitation in most cases, looks the same.
If there is suspected unhealthy root system- the plant is pulled out of the soil, and the roots are carefully examined.
If rotting cactus trunk, it is necessary to cut off all the rot to healthy tissues. You should also act if you find points and spots that are different in color on the trunk. After all the rot has been removed, the cut points must be treated with crushed coal, and left to dry for a couple of days. To prevent the fabrics from being pulled inward, the bottom of the cactus should be cut off like a pencil sharpening. This will facilitate further rooting of the plant. After the required time has passed, when the cut is dry enough, the cactus should be placed in a pot filled with special soil for cacti. Support if it falls, but do not bury. Watering the plant is not worth it. Until it takes root safely, spraying should be dispensed with.
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