How to insulate the roof of a private house - what kind of insulation to choose for insulation. Is it necessary to insulate a non-residential attic from the inside if the ceiling is insulated with mineral wool? Roof Insulation Guide
A house built and equipped with his own hands is the real pride of any owner. An integral stage in the arrangement of any residential building is the internal insulation of the roof. And if in most cases there are no problems with the thermal insulation of the walls, then the insulation of the roofing structure can introduce an unprepared master into bewilderment. Therefore, before starting the practical part, study all the theoretical recommendations proposed below.
After the installation of the insulation and all related elements, the roofing system will look like a layered "cake". The structure is based on a rafter system. All other elements are laid on it and fixed.
Modern roofing "pie"
V classic version layers of the cake, starting from the finish roofing are placed as follows:
- roof covering;
- lathing for mounting finishing material. Can be solid or sparse;
- counter-lattice bars. Needed to create a ventilation gap under the roofing material;
- waterproofing film;
- heat insulating material;
- vapor barrier material;
- lathing for the installation of insulating materials and internal cladding;
- lining material.
Correctly arranged roofing cake will significantly reduce heat loss in cold weather and prevent overheating of the space under the roof in hot weather. Waterproofing will protect the insulation from atmospheric moisture, and the vapor barrier material will prevent the formation of condensation and the appearance of all related problems.
How to insulate?
On the modern market there is a huge range of materials that can be successfully used for internal roof insulation. Try to avoid excessive savings - materials must be of high quality.
Heater parameters
When choosing a suitable insulation, you need to pay attention to a number of basic characteristics of the material, namely:
- the weight. The heavier the insulation, the more significant the load it will exert on the roof. This imposes a number of additional requirements for rafters and lathing - their configuration and strength must correspond to the characteristics of thermal insulation;
- thermal conductivity. It is better that this parameter be as low as possible, if possible not more than 0.04 W / m * C;
- resistance to adverse external influences.
Preferred insulation
Not so many materials meet the above requirements. Among all existing options heaters professionals recommend to give preference to mineral wool heat insulators and foam panels. All other things being equal, mineral wool is more preferable.
Additional insulating materials
In combination with insulation, the roof will need to be additionally insulated using steam and moisture insulating materials. For waterproofing the roof, polyethylene and roofing felt are usually used. These materials are highly resistant to moisture.
It is best to equip the vapor barrier layer with the use of special membranes, glassine or modern foil materials.
Regardless of the chosen insulation (installation is still carried out in the same sequence), in the process of performing the work, you must adhere to a number of basic recommendations, without which you can not count on high-quality internal insulation of the roof.
All the rules can be combined into one summary of tips, namely:
Thus, even before starting the performance of thermal insulation work, the master needs to study a fairly large amount of information and remember a number important requirements... The work must be done as efficiently as possible. Correctly equipped insulation will make living in the house as comfortable as possible and will significantly reduce the cost of heating the premises.
Use the recommendations received and remember: you need to insulate with the obligatory installation of a vapor barrier and moisture protection layers. Only such a complex will make it possible to obtain a reliable, durable and resistant to any adverse external influences roofing system... It is better to immediately do everything according to the rules and live peacefully in safe home than patching holes in a roofing pie after every heavy rain.
Preparation for roof insulation
The insulation procedure remains almost the same regardless of the type of roof, materials used and other points. Having dealt with the main points of thermal insulation work, you will be able to successfully apply them in practice.
First of all, carefully prepare the roof for the upcoming internal insulation.
First step. Examine the rafter system. If you find rotten or damaged parts, replace them with new parts.
Second step. Treat all wood items with an antiseptic.
Third step. Check the condition of pipelines and electrical wiring if these communications are laid under the roof.
Roof Insulation Guide
Proceed with the work on the internal insulation of the roof. The event is held in several stages. Go through each of them sequentially, not forgetting the previously received recommendations.
It is assumed that the rafters, lathing and other necessary elements have already been installed and you just have to mount the insulating materials, and then lay the finishing roofing.
The first step is vapor barrier
Lay the foil with a 10 cm overlap. For attaching the vapor barrier to the bars, it is convenient to use construction stapler with brackets. Tape all joints twice with duct tape. Be especially careful and careful when sealing various difficult areas, such as joints between the film and pipes, walls and other structural elements.
The second step is insulation
EKOTEPLIN - roof insulation
Place the selected insulation in the crate cells. Usually, the crate is assembled with the expectation that the step between its bars is a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation, so you can place the insulation boards as tightly as possible. Directly the lathing bars should be nailed to the rafters perpendicular to them.
With a strong desire, you can do without the crate - you stuff nails along the edges of the rafter legs and pull the wire between them. She will hold the insulation plates. However, it is better not to give up the crate - it is safer with it.
The insulation itself is usually laid in 2 layers. In this case, the upper layer must be laid with a certain offset in relation to the lower one - it is impossible that the joints of the insulation plates of both layers coincide.
The third step is waterproofing
Place the waterproofing film so that it completely overlaps the insulation, battens and rafters. For fixing the film, it is most convenient to use a construction stapler with staples.
Remove the waterproofing under the eaves of the roof - this will create the conditions necessary for effective drainage of water in the future.
In the end, you just have to lay the chosen one on the roof roofing material.
Thus, although the independent internal insulation of the roof is a very important and responsible event, there is nothing super complicated in its implementation. Do everything in accordance with the instructions, and very soon your house will become truly cozy and warm, and heating costs in the cold season will significantly decrease.
Happy work!
Video - Do-it-yourself roof insulation from the inside
The roof must be insulated to prevent heat loss in winter season and the possibility of overheating the premises in the summer season.
The roof is a must-have for every house. It is necessary to protect everyone natural factors, namely rain, wind, snow, hail. For maximum comfort of the room, the roof must be built and insulated correctly.
Why insulate the roof?
At all times, people were interested in the question of. Various tricks were used so that the heat did not go outside, but remained in the house for a long time. With development building technologies there are many ways to solve this issue. Various materials are used for roof insulation.
Important! The roof is the protection of the house. If you do not insulate it, then under the influence of wet precipitation, the beams begin to rot over time and the protection of the house loses its direct function. Carrying out insulation with your own hands significantly saves financial resources and keeps the roof structure in working order.
No one wants to make expensive renovation work to restore the roof or replace it completely after a certain period of time. Therefore, it is important to correctly insulate and waterproof.
During construction attic room strict insulation requirements are imposed.
The question of roof insulation should arise at the stage of building a house. If the house is one-story, and the attic is not used as a living space, you do not need to insulate the roof from the inside. In such a situation, it is enough to insulate the ceiling.
Materials used for roofs
When insulating a roof, an important question arises about the choice of insulation. Before choosing suitable material, you need to pay attention to thermal conductivity, material density, ability to absorb moisture, environmental safety.
Useful information ! The density of the material means the weight that falls on the rafter system. This should be taken into account when choosing a material.
The ability to absorb moisture should be very low, since the ingress of moisture destroys the insulation material and makes it unusable.
As for environmental safety, the material should not harm the person living in the house.
Insulation materials are currently used:
- mineral wool. Fibrous material from the melt mineral substances.
- expanded polystyrene (polystyrene). Foam material cured in a certain state.
- sawdust. The smallest wood particles that are obtained by the action of the saw.
- expanded clay. A porous lightweight material that is formed by firing clay.
These materials are in demand due to high quality and dignity. In addition to the positive qualities, these materials also have some disadvantages. Therefore, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the technology of roof strengthening and choose the option that suits you.
Insulation of roofs using mineral wool
Before insulating the roof in this way, you need to decide on the installation: insulate from above or inside.
Roofs wooden houses they are often insulated with mineral wool, which has many advantages. Namely, this stuff:
- Safe in terms of fire;
- Lack of harmful substances;
- Has good thermal insulation qualities;
- It is lightweight so it is not difficult to use.
High level of hygroscopicity mineral wool is a disadvantage, therefore it is necessary to carry out hydro and vapor barrier.
We will consider the sequence of roof insulation with this material in stages.
First step... Top ready rafter the mineral wool slab is laid. It is important that there is no air space in the insulation layer, and the joints are tightly pressed against the rafters.
When the insulation is laid, the waterproofing is laid so that it sags a little, is not stretched.
Important! Do not confuse the sides of the membrane waterproofing material. Upper layer waterproof, and the bottom one does not block the passage of steam and moisture.
The waterproofing is laid with a little overlap. Make sure that there is an air space of about 5 cm between the waterproofing layer and the membrane.
Second phase... When the installation of the waterproofing membrane is completed, the ventilation arrangement begins.
Advice! It is advisable to use for this trimming of beams about two meters in order to save material.
On the installed beams, a crate of boards is stuffed, which are laid across the rafters.
Such a device provides high-quality drying of moisture that collects on the membrane. Roofing material is laid on the crate.
Third final stage... A vapor barrier material is stretched onto the rafter system inside the building, onto which a lathing of rails is nailed. And they are already attaching to the slats inner lining- plywood.
It is important to remember that after the installation of mineral wool, the size of the material increases by 20%.
Roof insulation using expanded polystyrene
It is an insulating material in the form of small polymer balls filled with air and is often used to insulate roofs.
Since expanded polystyrene perfectly retains heat, it is lightweight and easy to use.
This material has various positive qualities.:
- Low level of vapor permeability;
- Thermal insulation properties provided high level humidity;
- Lack of ability to absorb moisture;
- Resistant to wear and tear;
- Resistant to bacteria and insects;
- Resistant to fire.
You can cut off the expanded polystyrene plates with an ordinary knife, which greatly facilitates the use of this material.
When processing the edges of the slab sandpaper dust and odor are not generated.
The process of insulating your roof with foam is carried out in the same way as from mineral wool. Space between slabs can be repaired polyurethane foam.
Roof insulation using expanded clay
This type of roof insulation has been used for many years and is considered traditional.
The main advantages of the material are as follows:
- Low price;
- High properties keeping warm;
- Not flammable;
- Waterproof.
Sand, crushed stone or gravel are used for thermal insulation. The scheme for insulating a roof made of expanded clay is very simple - the material is poured into the cavity, thereby making an insulating layer.
The main advantage of expanded clay is the absence of synthetic additives. This material is made of clay, therefore it is absolutely harmless.
Roof insulation using sawdust
This method of roof insulation is the cheapest in terms of the price range. When budgetary funds do not allow the use of expensive materials, you can insulate with sawdust. The only drawback of this method is that mice can appear in the sawdust.
To prevent such an unpleasant moment from happening, sawdust is mixed with lime. And it is best to use wood shavings for roof insulation.
The insulation process is very simple. It is enough to pour sawdust into the cavity. This forms a layer that prevents heat from escaping.
The effectiveness of this method of roof insulation is reduced due to the easy spread of fire in the event of a fire.
Insulation of the attic roof
In modern times, it has become very fashionable to have an attic in the house. In addition to fashion, this construction increases the living space of the house. But to make this room comfortable is not as easy as it seems at first glance.
The attic room is most susceptible to heat loss, since the contact with the external environment is much greater than other rooms. For a comfortable stay on attic floor you need to take care of waterproofing and roofing.
To prevent the room from being blown by the wind and not getting cold air, you need to be guided by certain rules... Any insulation material can be chosen, but most often foam is used.
Effective insulation has the following scheme:
- roof covering;
- lathing;
- ventilation outlet;
- windproof film;
- rafter support;
- thermal insulation;
- vapor barrier;
- drywall.
Each of these materials has its own weight. This must be taken into account, since the attic rafter systems are not always able to withstand the load. Whether it is worth removing any material without damaging the thermal insulation or not, it depends on temperature regime region.
To prevent rain and wind from falling into the attic, you need to choose high-density and vapor-permeable heaters. Otherwise, moist air will settle on the insulation and form mold.
Important! In order for humid air to get into the insulation material, it is necessary to install a ventilation outlet. Its area depends on the size of the roof.
Important to remember that the heat from the attic space escapes not only through the roof, but also through the walls. This also needs to be taken care of when insulating the attic.
conclusions
If there is an item in the plans for insulating the roof with your own hands, you need to properly study this process and the implementation scheme. You can watch video clips on this topic.
The quality of roof insulation with your own hands can be assessed in the winter season. If icicles appeared on the cornice, this means that the work was not done well, with a violation of technology.
It is best to purchase a ready-made insulation system, since the manufacturers have thought out all the points in advance.
Moiseenko Zoryana: Need expert advice. We have a two-story house with a gable roof. We insulated the ceiling of the second floor with wadding mines. Do I need to insulate the attic from the inside (non-residential attic): gables, the roof itself (material - metal)? Will the costs of insulating the attic be justified or is it enough to insulate the ceiling of the second floor. I mean, the heat loss will be obviously less? If it is worthwhile to warm up, I will be grateful for a detailed answer, what and how. Thank you in advance.
The correct solution in this situation would be to leave the attic itself without insulation and heating. This action will allow you to get much more pluses than minuses. Let's take a closer look at why you shouldn't lay the second layer of insulation.
Firstly, you significantly save on materials and work, which in itself is quite a weighty argument for construction or reconstruction. You can build an infinitely long time and pour practically unlimited amounts into the construction site, but this is not always justified.
Secondly, you get a buffer space that will work for the good of your home in summer and winter.
If your unheated attic has air vents and special ventilation holes under the ridge and on the slopes of the roof, this will have a beneficial effect on the microclimate of the whole house.
Such a space protects the building from excessive overheating in the summer heat and reduces heat loss in the winter cold, while observing the technology of insulation of the ceiling of the 2nd floor.
Of the minuses of this solution, one can single out the need compulsory insulation ventilation ducts and a drain pipe, a special technology for laying steam and waterproofing to prevent the accumulation of condensate and ice. By the way, metal tiles are the ideal material for a cold attic. Combined with a roof snow guard, you can count on a comfortable stay at any time of the year.
As for insulation, there are currently many options, but the most common and a good option according to the price / quality / characteristics ratio is stone wool in slabs (ROCKWOOL).
When laying them, you should definitely count required thickness in your lane. It is better to take the thickness with a margin, laying the sheets in a checkerboard pattern so that there are no cold bridges in the insulation layer. Just as very important point is the presence of a vapor barrier, to keep the thermal insulation material in the correct humidity parameters.
If you insulate the second floor well enough, protect the ventilation systems from freezing, provide for the possibility of air circulation in the attic space and carry out operations to remove excess moisture from the roof, you will be able to enjoy comfortable living for many years.
A flat roof is an inexpensive and practical way to equip any building. Often it is erected over multi-storey residential buildings, industrial facilities, garages and annexes (verandas, terraces). In the case of residential buildings flat roof it is imperative to insulate, otherwise there will be little sense from it. This is what we will talk about in today's article - insulation flat roof do it yourself.
The need to insulate a roof, including a flat one, is obvious - anyone familiar with the concept of convection from a school physics course should understand that the air rushes up as it heats up. If at the top he does not meet a worthy obstacle, then he will freely leave the room. In other words, all efforts to heat the house under a flat roof will come to naught.
but useful sides roof insulation does not end there. In addition to the fact that thermal insulation traps warm air, it prevents sudden temperature changes inside the roofing cake. Let's turn all to the same school physics course. When cold outside air collides with heated currents rising from the house, the reaction creates condensation - tiny droplets of water. Condensation accumulates, soaking the layers of the roofing cake and wooden elements, provoking their rapid wear. For this reason, laying only one insulation under the roof sheathing is not enough - it is necessary to protect it vapor barrier membrane, which will drain condensate from the insulation and facilitate its rapid evaporation.
It turns out that the device for insulating a flat roof involves the use of not only heat-insulating material, but also vapor barrier. The order of installation depends on the type of roof. Flat roofs are classic and inverted. In the first case, it is based on a carrier plate, on which a vapor barrier is laid, and then a heater. It, in turn, is closed roll waterproofing based on bitumen. It simultaneously protects the insulation from moisture and is a topcoat. Such roofs can be found on multi-storey buildings in any city. It is also worth mentioning that the classic roof can be exploited and unexploited. As the name implies, the operated roof can be used, that is, you can place equipment, furniture there, make superstructures, in general, use it to the fullest as an additional surface. The covering of an unexploited roof is not adapted to increased loads, but the insulation of both types proceeds according to the same scenarios.
Inversion roof in technical performance much more perfect than traditional. First on carrier plate a layer of gravel, expanded clay or crushed stone is poured. The thickness of the powder should be at least 5 cm. Waterproofing is placed on such a drainage cushion, then insulation, everything is poured with concrete and the screed is covered finishing material... The main difference is in laying the insulation over the waterproofing, which allows you to save the hydrophobic layer from destructive ultraviolet rays, temperature changes and mechanical damage. As a result, the inverted flat roof lasts much longer than the traditional one and automatically becomes exploitable - a strong concrete screed (especially if it is reinforced) makes it possible to arrange outdoor recreation and sports grounds.
It should be borne in mind that the insulation, like all other layers of the roofing cake, will be subject to various types of loads: the weight of the snow, the strength of the wind, the mass of the overlying materials, etc. Therefore, increased physical and mechanical requirements are imposed on heaters for flat roofs. In addition, experts strongly recommend choosing the most hydrophobic material, since it is impossible to guarantee 100% protection against moisture. We will talk more about the choice of insulation a little later.
Methods for insulating flat roofs
Insulation of flat roofs is carried out according to one of two schemes: in one or two layers. Single-layer insulation is relevant for industrial buildings, garages and warehouses. Suitable for both exploited and unexploited roofs (in the first case, the presence of a reinforced concrete screed finishing layer). Placing the insulation in one plane gives moderate protection against the appearance of condensation and excessive heat loss, however, only two-layer insulation allows you to create a microclimate that is comfortable for a cozy life.
A two-layer insulation scheme, as you might guess, involves laying two layers of heat-insulating material in different planes. The lower base layer should be characterized by thermal stability with low strength and a thickness of 70 to 170 mm. The top layer is responsible for distributing the mechanical load over the entire surface of the system. Its thickness is significantly less than that of the lower layer and ranges from 30 to 50 mm, but at the same time it is distinguished by high compressive and tensile strength. Such a functional distribution of two layers of insulation significantly reduces the mass of the roofing cake as a whole, thereby reducing the load exerted by the roof on the floors and foundation.
The choice of insulation for the roof
To insulate a flat roof from the outside, use the most different materials, but after studying the above information, we can already highlight several main selection criteria. First, maximum hydrophobicity. Secondly, strength and density. Thirdly, as little weight as possible. Consider the materials used in modern construction.
Most often, in urban and private construction, filling materials are used due to their availability and cheapness. It is about expanded clay (foamed under high pressure clay) and perlite (light coarse sand with good thermal insulation characteristics). Unfortunately, the low cost and availability of the advantages of these materials are limited - in other parameters, they are not able to compete with fibrous or polymer insulation. They are comparatively heavy, and they are ideal to create. flat surface a slight incline is quite difficult.
The second most popular are mineral wool boards and expanded polystyrene. Mineral wool keeps heat well, is easy to work with, does not burn, but needs high-quality waterproofing - if it gets even a little wet, it will no longer protect against heat loss. Extruded polystyrene foam is not afraid of water, is highly durable, easy to install and relatively low cost. However, it is better to use it to create an inverted roof, since the material is very sensitive to ultraviolet radiation and is flammable.
Not so long ago, mineral wool in slabs made from basalt rocks appeared on the market. It is much stronger in compression and rupture than older counterparts, is not so much afraid of water and allows you to create a sufficiently strong coating without arranging a heavy concrete screed.
And finally, the newest, high-quality and most expensive insulation is polyurethane foam. A special composition is applied to the prepared surface by the method of mechanical spraying, after which it foams, hardens and creates a strong waterproof crust that perfectly retains heat and is immune to ultraviolet light. In the West, polyurethane foam has long been used for insulating roofs, including flat ones. In our latitudes, its advantages have just begun to be appreciated.
Positive aspects of using polyurethane foam for roof insulation:
- very low thermal conductivity (polyurethane foam 0.022 W / m², mineral wool 0.055 W / m²);
- requires minimal surface preparation (cleaned of debris, you do not need to level or process);
- for high-quality insulation, a layer 5-6 cm thick is enough;
- absolutely seamless coating, which excludes the formation of potentially risky places of leaks and drafts;
- absolute hydrophobicity and vapor permeability (allows you to save on hydro and vapor barrier);
- spraying can be used to create additional waterproofing;
- the high rigidity of the hardened coating allows you to equip a concrete screed on top of it;
- relatively low density (does not give a strong load on the supporting elements);
- environmental Safety;
- the ability to cover surfaces and objects of any shape (allows you to protect problem areas of pipe exit from leaks and heat loss);
- does not burn and does not support combustion;
- service life is more than 25 years;
- high speed of work.
Thus, polyurethane foam replaces insulation, steam and waterproofing. The only drawback is that you will not be able to do such work with your own hands, since this requires special equipment and skills in handling a two-component material.
Insulation technology
It's time to tell you how to insulate a flat roof yourself. Since the disadvantages loose insulation do not allow us to talk about them as the best options for arrangement, we will touch on the use of mineral wool boards and extruded polystyrene foam.
Mineral wool slabs
Immediately builds to make a reservation that not all mineral wool slabs can be used to insulate a flat exploited roof or a classic soft roof. Basalt slabs are best suited for this purpose, the fibers in which are directed to different sides- this allows them to withstand high loads. Of course, you can protect the fragile insulation with a screed (dry or wet), but this will create additional stress on the supporting structures.
Mineral wool insulation technology:
Video about insulating a flat roof with mineral wool:
Extruded polystyrene foam
Extruded polystyrene foam is highly durable and waterproof, and therefore is most often used for insulating inverted roofs. The slabs have slot locks, which provide a very dense surface, but for greater reliability, it is recommended to glue all joints with construction tape.
The beauty of expanded polystyrene is that it is very simple and quick to work with it:
- First, the slabs are laid on the base plate, gluing the gaps of the joints with construction tape. If it is necessary to lay the second layer, the slabs are mounted "at a distance".
- Geotextiles are laid on top of the expanded polystyrene insulation, designed to protect the lower layers of the cake from dirt and mechanical damage.
- A 5-10 cm layer of gravel or gravel is poured onto the geotextile. Sometimes, for additional drainage, a profiled membrane is laid between the geotextile and the powder.
- Finally, crushed stone or gravel is poured with a screed and laid topcoat... If it is planned to plant lawn grass or flowers on the operating roof, an additional layer of geotextile should be laid on top of the backfill, and then 15-20 cm of fertile soil should be poured.
It is not so easy to insulate a flat roof, but this measure belongs to the category of necessary ones if you want to live in a warm house and not overpay for heating.
When building a house or reconstructing it, most often its owners come to the conclusion that the roof and ceiling must be insulated in order to prevent the loss of thermal energy. To insulate the roof of a wooden house from the inside, you need to choose the right thermal insulation material and carry out its installation, observing the technology.
It has long been established by experience and calculations that through each element of the structure of the house occur heat losses... For example, from 20 to 30% of the heat goes through the attic floor and the roof, which means that the same part of the amount paid for burning it is wasted. Therefore, having once invested in high-quality house insulation, you can save all subsequent years on heating it.
It should be noted that if the house is located in a region with a mild winter climate, then many home owners prefer to insulate only the attic floor. However, the thermal insulation of the roof different time is capable of performing three functions:
- in winter it keeps the house warm;
- in the summer it does not allow the attic to heat up, which means that it will be cool in the house;
- in addition, the insulation is an excellent sound insulator, so the rooms will always be quiet, even during heavy rain and with any type of roofing.
Based on these arguments, we can conclude that it is best to insulate and soundproof not only the attic floor, but also the roof itself.
You may be interested in information on how it is produced with liquid insulation
Types of insulation for roof construction
The choice of insulation must also be done competently, providing technical and performance characteristics material. In this case, special attention should be paid to the following of them:
- Low thermal conductivity.
- Increased moisture resistance.
- Low flammability.
- Environmental friendliness.
- Durability of the material.
To the materials used for roof insulation and attic floor from the inside, include:
- Mineral wool in slabs and rolls.
- Ecowool made on cellulose basis.
- Expanded polystyrene (styrofoam).
- Penoizol and sprayed polyurethane foam.
- Expanded clay of different fractions (insulation of floors).
In addition, natural materials such as straw, slag, sawdust and dry leaves have traditionally been used. Some builders still use these heaters today, but they require special processing, since they are not moisture resistant, which means that putrefactive processes and the formation of microflora colonies are possible in them.
All materials used for thermal insulation of the roof are relatively lightweight, therefore they will slightly weigh down the rafter and overlapping structure.
This table presents the main characteristics of the most popular insulation materials today:
| Material parameters | Materials (edit) | Thickness, mm | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 50 | 60 | 80 | 100 | 120 | 150 | 200 | 250 | ||
| Density, kg / m³ | Mineral wool | 100-120 | |||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 25-35 | ||||||||
| Polyurethane foam | 54-55 | ||||||||
| Thermal resistance, (m2 ° K) / W | Mineral wool | 1.19 | 1.43 | 1.9 | 2.38 | 2.86 | 3.57 | 4.76 | 5.95 |
| Expanded polystyrene | 1.35 | 1.62 | 2.16 | 2.7 | 3.24 | 4.05 | 5.41 | 6.76 | |
| Polyurethane foam | 1.85 | 2.22 | 2.96 | 3.7 | 4.44 | 5.56 | 7.41 | 9.26 | |
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m × ° K) | Mineral wool | 0,038-0,052 | |||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 0.037 | ||||||||
| Polyurethane foam | 0.027 | ||||||||
| Weight of 1 m2, kg | Mineral wool | 15.2 | 15.8 | 17.6 | 20.9 | 23.2 | 26.7 | 32.4 | 38.2 |
| Expanded polystyrene | 9.8 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12.3 | 13.5 | 14.8 | |
| Polyurethane foam | 11.2 | 11.7 | 12.8 | 13.9 | 15 | 16.6 | 19.3 | 22 | |
Mineral wool
Mineral wool is most often used to insulate the roof structure, since this material is easy to install and well suited in terms of its parameters for thermal insulation of the attic of a wooden house.
One of the most comfortable materials- mineral wool
Since this material is made from different raw materials, its characteristics and prices vary somewhat among themselves. And to choose the best way, you need to consider each of its types:
- Slag wool is produced from blast-furnace slag and consists of fibers 5 ÷ 12 microns thick, 14 ÷ 16 mm long. This option is the most unsuitable for insulating an attic, so you should not flatter yourself with its low cost, since the insulation will have to be carried out again in a couple of years.
Slag wool is quite hygroscopic, which means that it absorbs moisture well and, being saturated with it, it settles and loses its thermal insulation qualities. In addition, it has low heat resistance and is classified as G4. This insulation withstands temperatures of only 300-320 degrees, which is a low indicator for its use in wooden structures.
The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.48 ÷ 0.52 W / m × ° K, which is much lower than that of the other two types of mineral wool. During installation, you can see that the fibers are slagy enough brittle, brittle and prickly. Therefore, it is best not to use this type of mineral wool for residential premises.
- Glass wool. This type of insulation is made from molten sand and broken glass. The thickness of the fibers is 4–15 microns, and the length is 14–45 mm - these parameters give the material elasticity and strength. The chaotic arrangement of the fibers contributes to airiness and an increase in the insulating qualities of the heat insulator.
Advanced modern glass wool is designed on for heating up to 460 ÷ 500 degrees, which is much higher than that of slag. The thermal conductivity of this type of mineral wool is 0.030 ÷ 0.048 W / m × ° K.
Glass wool is widely used for insulating stone buildings; it is also well suited for the roof of a wooden house. If thermally insulated attic option under the roof space, then glass wool is often used in combination with polyurethane foam.
Due to the fact that glass wool fibers are very thin, brittle and prickly, they easily penetrate the tissue, they can get into the mucous membranes of the eyes or into the respiratory tract. Therefore, starting to installation work, you should protect yourself protective equipment wearing a suit made of dense fabric, special glasses, a respirator and gloves.
- Basalt (stone) wool is made from mountain gabbro - basalt rocks. The thermal conductivity of basalt insulation is 0.032 ÷ 0.05 W / m × ° K, the material can withstand temperatures up to 550 ÷ 600 degrees.
It is much easier to work with stone wool, since its fibers are not so brittle and prickly, their thickness is from 3.5 to 5 microns, length is from 3 to 5 mm. They are located chaotically and their interlacing gives insulation good strength, therefore, the material is sufficiently resistant to mechanical damage.
Basalt wool prices
basalt wool
In addition, basalt insulation is inert to chemical influences and tolerates well the destructive influence of the external environment.
All types of mineral wool for surface insulation are available in rolls or mats (blocks) of different sizes. Today, in hardware stores, you can find foil material that is more effective for insulation, since the foil reflects and retains heat inside the room.
The main disadvantage of all types of mineral wool is the fiber binder, which is very often made on the basis of phenol-formaldehyde resin. It constantly releases toxic substances into the air that are dangerous to human health. Therefore, it is impossible to call any of the types of mineral wool absolutely environmentally friendly.
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Expanded polystyrene
Expanded polystyrene has become the most popular material for insulating houses, and all this is due to its affordability and ease of installation. But for that to the attic was insulated thoroughly, without the formation of cold bridges, it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of the heat insulator to the surfaces, which is difficult to achieve using foam, since it does not have the required flexibility. Therefore, it is combined with other insulation materials, including sprayed polyurethane foam.
Plates of conventional expanded polystyrene - foam (left), and extruded
Polyfoam has an average thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.037 W / (m × ° K), but it also depends on the density of the material, as well as its thickness.
Moisture absorption conventional foam is up to 2%, which significantly exceeds this parameter for extruded polystyrene foam - here the threshold is about 0.4% of the total volume of the material.
Styrofoam prices
expanded polystyrene
The most dangerous quality of expanded polystyrene is its flammability, and when ignited, the material melts, at the same time creating thick smoke. The smoke emitted from it is extremely toxic and hazardous to health.
Therefore, when choosing this insulation, it is necessary to take into account all its positive and negative properties and to protect the house as much as possible from possible emergencies. Particular attention will need to be paid to reliable insulation of the wiring and correct installation chimney channels (pipes).
Polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam is applied to roof and ceiling structures by spraying with help special equipment. Spraying is carried out in several layers, so the coating can have a fairly large thickness. With this method of application, polyurethane foam penetrates into all cracks and crevices, so the insulating layer will be completely sealed. Freezing and expanding, the insulation acquires high density, and its thermal conductivity is only 0.027 W / (m × ° K), at moisture absorption no more than 0.2% of the total volume of the material. This means that there is no loss of its thermal insulation qualities.
The sprayed polyurethane foam expands and hardens quickly, and its excess can be easily cut off using sharp knife, which adds convenience to the fit finished coating under the level rafter system for further finishing or roofing work.
Using this material, you can refuse waterproofing, wind protection and vapor barrier - it perfectly copes with the whole complex of problems, without trapping steam and not letting moisture inside the room.
Polyurethane foam is sprayed on any surface: horizontal, vertical or inclined, as it has high adhesion with all building materials.
Ecowool
Ecowool is made from small cellulose particles. Laying of this material can be done "dry" and "wet".
Environmentally friendly material - ecowool
- In the first case, the insulation is scattered between the floor beams and compacted as far as possible by rolling. This way on the walls and roof structures styling will not work.
- For "wet" installation, it is necessary special equipment, where the dry substance is mixed with adhesives, and then, under pressure, it is distributed by means of a pipe to ceilings and walls.
"Wet" installation of ecowool
- Another option for insulation with ecowool is filling the space between the rafter legs, after fixing on them finishing material, for example, drywall or wooden lining. In this case, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material - it will depend on the height of the rafters, which will determine the thickness of the thermal insulation.
Ecowool has a number of advantages over other insulation materials, and these include the following:
- It is an environmentally friendly material that does not emit in environment no harmful fumes.
- Ecowool is able to "preserve" surfaces, preventing the development of fungal and putrefactive formations.
- If during the operation of the house it turns out that the thickness of the insulation layer on the roof is insufficient, then it can be increased or compacted already laid material.
- Insulation is laid quickly enough.
- Ecowool has a long service life without losing its original thermal insulation qualities.
- Cellulose insulation material is necessarily processed with fire retardants, therefore it has a very weak flammability and a tendency to self-extinguishing. In addition, ecowool does not smoke, and even more so it does not emit substances hazardous to the human body.
- Ecowool, applied to any surface, forms a seamless, sealed coating of the required thickness.
- Insulation is a "breathable" material, so moisture is not retained in it.
- The payback period for such insulation is one to three years.
The table below shows the comparative digital characteristics of two environmentally friendly materials - ecowool and expanded clay, which will be discussed below, discussed below.
| Material parameters | Expanded clay gravel | Ecowool (cellulose) |
|---|---|---|
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m ° K) | 0,016-0,018 | 0,038-0,041 |
| Density, kg / m³ | 200-400 | 42-75 |
| Density of adhesion to the structure | Depending on the faction: | Tight fit, well clogs all cracks and crevices |
| - 15-20 mm - the presence of voids; | ||
| - 5-10 mm - snug fit. | ||
| Linear shrinkage | absent | |
| Water vapor permeability mg / Pa × m × h | 0.3 | 0.67 |
| Chemical inertness | neutral | |
| Flammability | incombustible | G1-G2 (slightly flammable material, because it is treated with fire retardants |
| Moisture absorption,% by weight | 10-25 | 14-16 |
Expanded clay
Expanded clay is very often used to insulate the attic floor of a wooden house. Of course, the rafter system with expanded clay insulate difficult, but filling it between the floor beams on previously prepared surfaces will not be difficult.
This material is made from specially prepared clay that undergoes high-temperature heat treatment. Expanded clay is produced in four fractions, ranging from expanded clay sand to large elements 20 ÷ 30 mm in size.
| Fraction, mm | Bulk density, kg / m³ | The total density of the material, kg / m³ | Compressive strength MPa |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 - 4 | 400 | 800 - 1200 | 2,0 - 3,0 |
| 4 - 10 | 335 - 350 | 550 - 800 | 1,2 - 1,4 |
| 10 - 30 | 200 - 250 | 450 - 650 | 0,9 - 1,1 |
Expanded clay prices
expanded clay
The advantages of this material:
- Ecological cleanliness. It does not call allergic reactions and does not highlight in surrounding atmosphere poisonous substances.
- The insulation does not lose its original thermal insulation qualities throughout the entire period of operation.
- For insulation, you can choose a material of a suitable fraction - the density of the backfill will depend on this. The finer the fraction, the denser the backfill.
- Expanded clay is a non-combustible material, which is a very important quality for wooden structure... This insulation is used to isolate the chimneys from wooden floors, filling it into a box built around them.
- Another important advantage of this material is that it is not tolerated by domestic rodents. If the house is on suburban area, then mice may well settle in it even in the attic, and some heaters create quite suitable conditions- but not expanded clay!
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Supporting materials
except thermal insulation materials, in the insulation "pie" is used a waterproofing (windproof) and vapor barrier film.
- Waterproofing is necessary in order to protect insulation against condensation, which can collect between the heat insulator and the roof. In addition, this material performs a windproof function, preventing cold, dust and moisture from the air from getting directly to the insulation, as well as into the attic.
This membrane must have vapor permeable ability - excess moisture in the insulation will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.
If the insulation is carried out in an already mounted structure and it is not planned to change the material of the roof, under which the waterproofing membrane should be located, then sprayed polyurethane foam will have to be used for insulation - it does not require protection from the wind, and it can be sprayed on on a reliable base of boards or directly on the roofing.
- When the roof slopes are insulated, the insulation is closed vapor barrier film from the side of the attic. The vapor barrier is intended to protect the thermal insulation material and wooden elements rafter system from moisture penetration from the inside.
As you know, excess moisture that gets on insulation and wood can lead to mold and rot, as well as unpleasant odor, which will eventually move into living rooms.
If it is planned to equip a heated room in the attic, then the vapor barrier film should be fixed under the wall decoration.
When insulating the floor, the vapor barrier is laid under the insulation, on the boards and beams of the structure, since it should retain heat in the rooms below and not allow wet vapors from them to get into the insulating layer.
The protective membrane is produced in different thicknesses and can be made of foil-clad or non-woven material. If a film with a foil surface is used, then it is mounted on the roof slopes with the reflective side towards the attic. When insulating the floor, it should be turned towards the lower room. This is done so that the heat is reflected inside the attic or towards the living rooms and does not go outside. Between themselves, the canvases are glued with foil tape, which will help to create the integrity and tightness of the membrane.
If you want to save money, you can use the old proven methods of vapor barrier, when the gaps between the attic floor boards, as well as their joints with the beams, are well coated with a paste made from lead, clay. Such protection will not only create a high tightness of the floor, but will also protect the wood from the appearance of pests, and will also allow the insulation layers to "breathe".
When the lime or clay is well dry, you can proceed to insulation operations. By the way, wooden houses for a long time, they were insulated with sawdust - for this they were mixed with the same clay and a little lime was added to the mixture, which gave elasticity to the composition. In addition to sawdust, others were also used for insulation. natural materials, which were dried and laid between the floor beams.
This method of vapor barrier and insulation is used today, as it helps to save a fairly decent amount. But all such work is very laborious and requires certain knowledge, skill and time.
Those home owners who want the work to go faster, use modern materials.
How to calculate the required insulation thickness?
It is not enough to decide on the type of insulation, based only on its environmental friendliness, ease of installation and cost. It is very important to correctly calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. This is also necessary for that to create comfortable conditions in the room, in order to avoid overpaying for unnecessary material.
Rasche T the required thickness of insulation is determined by special guidelines documents - SNiP 23 — 02-2003 " Thermal protection buildings"And the Code of Rules SP 23— 101-2004" Design thermal protection of buildings". They provide formulas for calculations that take into account a very large number of parameters. But, with some admissible simplification, the following expression can be taken as a basis:
δut= (R - 0.16 - δ1/ λ1- δ2/ λ2 – δ n/ λ n) × λout
We begin to understand the values available in the formula:
- δut- this is the required parameter, the thickness of the layer of thermal insulation material.
- R- the required tabulated value of thermal resistance (m2 × ° WITH/ W) of the insulated structure. These parameters are calculated for each region of Russia in accordance with specific climatic conditions. Such thermal resistance will ensure, with a well-designed heating system, maintaining a comfortable temperature in the room of + 19 °. The diagram below with a map of Russia shows the value R for walls, ceilings and coverings.
When calculating insulation for the roof, the value "for coatings" is taken, for the attic floor - "for floors".
- δ nand λn— the values of the thickness of the material layer and the coefficient of its thermal conductivity.
The formula allows you to calculate the thickness of insulation for a multi-layer structure, taking into account thermal insulating properties of each of the layers, from 1 before n... For example, a roofing "pie" will consist of a solid plywood sheathing on top of rafters with roofing felt on top. Below is a layer of insulation, which has to be calculated, and then the ceiling will be hemmed with natural wooden clapboard... Thus, three layers will be taken into account: lining + plywood + roofing material.
It is important - only those outer layers are considered that are tightly adjacent to each other. For example, flat slate you can take into account, but wavy - no longer. If the roof structure requires a ventilated roof, then all layers above the ventilated gap are not taken into account.
Where do the values come from? Measure the thickness of each of the layers ( δ n) – it will not be difficult. The value of the thermal conductivity coefficient ( λ n), if it is not indicated in the technical documentation of the material, it can be taken from the table below:
| Estimated thermal performance of some building and thermal insulation materials | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Material | Density of materials in a dry state, kg / cubic meter | Calculated coefficients for different conditions exploitation | ||||
| ω | λ | μ | ||||
| A | B | A | B | A, B | ||
| λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity (W / (m ° C)); ω - coefficient of mass ratio of moisture in the material (%); ; μ - vapor permeability coefficient (mg / (m h Pa) | ||||||
| A. Polymer | ||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 150 | 1 | 5 | 0.052 | 0.06 | 0.05 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.052 | 0.05 |
| Also | 40 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam | 25 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Also | 28 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Also | 33 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Also | 35 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.005 |
| Also | 45 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.005 |
| Polyfoam PVC1 and PV1 | 125 | 2 | 10 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.23 |
| Also | 100 or less | 2 | 10 | 0.05 | 0.052 | 0.23 |
| Polyurethane foam | 80 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Also | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.041 | 0.05 |
| Also | 40 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.04 | 0.05 |
| Perlitoplast concrete | 200 | 2 | 3 | 0.052 | 0.06 | 0.008 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 3 | 0.041 | 0.05 | 0.008 |
| Thermal insulation products made of foamed synthetic rubber "Aeroflex" | 80 | 5 | 15 | 0.04 | 0.054 | 0.003 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex", type 35 | 35 | 2 | 3 | 0.029 | 0.03 | 0.018 |
| Also. type 45 | 45 | 2 | 3 | 0.031 | 0.032 | 0.015 |
| B. Mineral wool, fiberglass | ||||||
| Mineral wool stitched mats | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.3 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.061 | 0.067 | 0.49 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Mineral wool mats on a synthetic binder | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.072 | 0.082 | 0.49 |
| Also | 175 | 2 | 5 | 0.066 | 0.076 | 0.49 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.49 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.53 |
| Soft, semi-rigid and hard mineral wool slabs on synthetic and bitumen binders | 250 | 2 | 5 | 0.082 | 0.085 | 0.41 |
| Also | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.079 | 0.084 | 0.41 |
| Also | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.49 |
| Also | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.068 | 0.073 | 0.49 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.069 | 0.49 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.065 | 0.56 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.056 | 0.063 | 0.6 |
| Mineral wool slabs of increased rigidity based on organophosphate binder | 200 | 1 | 2 | 0.07 | 0.076 | 0.45 |
| Semi-rigid mineral wool slabs on starch binder | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.38 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.38 |
| Glass staple fiber slabs on a synthetic binder | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.6 |
| Stitched glass fiber mats and strips | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.53 |
| Glass staple fiber mats "URSA" | 25 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.05 | 0.61 |
| Also | 17 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.053 | 0.66 |
| Also | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.048 | 0.053 | 0.68 |
| Also | 11 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.055 | 0.7 |
| Glass staple fiber slabs "URSA" | 85 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.05 | 0.5 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.047 | 0.5 |
| Also | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Also | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Also | 35 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Also | 30 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Also | 20 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.048 | 0.53 |
| Also | 17 . | 2 | 5 | 0.047 | 0.053 | 0.54 |
| Also | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.049 | 0.055 | 0.55 |
| B. Slabs of natural organic and inorganic materials | ||||||
| Fiberboard and chipboard | 1000 | 10 | 12 | 0.23 | 0.29 | 0.12 |
| Also | 800 | 10 | 12 | 0.19 | 0.23 | 0.12 |
| Also | 600 | 10 | 12 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.13 |
| Also | 400 | 10 | 12 | 0.11 | 0.13 | 0.19 |
| Also | 200 | 10 | 12 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.24 |
| Fiberboard slabs and arbolite on Portland cement | 500 | 10 | 15 | 0.15 | 0.19 | 0.11 |
| Also | 450 | 10 | 15 | 0.135 | 0.17 | 0.11 |
| Also | 400 | 10 | 15 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.26 |
| Reed slabs | 300 | 10 | 15 | 0.09 | 0.14 | 0.45 |
| Also | 200 | 10 | 15 | 0.07 | 0.09 | 0.49 |
| Peat thermal insulation slabs | 300 | 15 | 20 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.19 |
| Also | 200 | 15 | 20 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Plaster boards | 1350 | 4 | 6 | 0.5 | 0.56 | 0.098 |
| Also | 1100 | 4 | 6 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.11 |
| Plaster cladding sheets (gypsum plasterboard) | 1050 | 4 | 6 | 0.34 | 0.36 | 0.075 |
| Also | 800 | 4 | 6 | 0.19 | 0.21 | 0.075 |
| G. Backfill | ||||||
| Expanded clay gravel | 600 | 2 | 3 | 0.17 | 0.19 | 0.23 |
| Also | 500 | 2 | 3 | 0.15 | 0.165 | 0.23 |
| Also | 450 | 2 | 3 | 0.14 | 0.155 | 0.235 |
| Also | 400 | 2 | 3 | 0.13 | 0.145 | 0.24 |
| Also | 350 | 2 | 3 | 0.125 | 0.14 | 0.245 |
| Also | 300 | 2 | 3 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.25 |
| Also | 250 | 2 | 3 | 0.11 | 0.12 | 0.26 |
| E. Wood, products from it and other natural organic materials | ||||||
| Pine and spruce across the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.14 | 0.18 | 0.06 |
| Pine and spruce along the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.29 | 0.35 | 0.32 |
| Oak across the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.18 | 0.23 | 0.05 |
| Oak along the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.3 |
| Plywood, glued | 600 | 10 | 13 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.02 |
| Facing cardboard | 1000 | 5 | 10 | 0.21 | 0.23 | 0.06 |
| Construction multi-layer cardboard | 650 | 6 | 12 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.083 |
| E. Roofing, waterproofing, facing materials | ||||||
| - Asbestos-cement | ||||||
| Asbestos-cement flat sheets | 1800 | 2 | 3 | 0.47 | 0.52 | 0.03 |
| Also | 1600 | 2 | 3 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.03 |
| - Bituminous | ||||||
| Petroleum bitumens for construction and roofing | 1400 | 0 | 0 | 0.27 | 0.27 | 0.008 |
| Also | 1200 | 0 | 0 | 0.22 | 0.22 | 0.008 |
| Also | 1000 | 0 | 0 | 0.17 | 0.17 | 0.008 |
| Asphalt concrete | 2100 | 0 | 0 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 0.008 |
| Products made of expanded perlite on a bitumen binder | 400 | 1 | 2 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.04 |
| Also | 300 | 1 | 2 | 0.09 | 0.099 | 0.04 |
Note that there are two values given for materials λ n- for operating modes A or B. These modes provide for the peculiarities of the humidity regime - both by the region of construction and by the type of premises.
To begin with, it is necessary to determine the zone according to the map-scheme - wet, normal or dry.
Then, comparing the zone and features of the room, according to the proposed table, determine the mode, A or B, in accordance with which and choose the value λ n.
| Room humidity regime | Operating conditions, A or B, by humidity zones (according to the map-scheme) | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Dry zone | Normal zone | Wet area | |
| Dry | A | A | B |
| Normal | A | B | B |
| Wet or wet | B | B | B |
- λut - thermal conductivity coefficient for the selected type of insulation, according to which the thickness is calculated.
Now, having written out the thickness and coefficient of thermal conductivity for each layer, you can calculate the thickness of the insulation. Please note that the formula requires you to specify the thickness in meters!
To make it easier for the interested reader, a special calculator has been posted. It provides for a calculation for three layers (excluding insulation). If the number of layers is less, then just leave the extra column blank. The thickness of the layers and the final result are in millimeters.
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