If you want to buy an exotic flower of extraordinary beauty for yourself, we recommend that you pay attention to Phalaenopsis. We are sure that this is something you will definitely like. In a flower shop, you can easily recognize these orchids by their gray-green powerful roots sticking out of planting containers, by rosettes of dense beautiful leaves and, most importantly, by flowers resembling tropical moths or fabulous butterflies sitting on tall peduncles. We will tell you about the nuances of caring for the Phalaenopsis orchid at home.

You will be amazed at how many varieties of Phalaenopsis are on sale, what a variety of bizarre shapes, colors and aromas there are. Choose what you like. It is advisable to choose a butterfly orchid during the flowering period and with a large number of unopened buds. Then there will be a guarantee that for a long time you will admire the charming flowering.

In the copy you like, pay attention to the leaves - in a healthy flower, they should be dark green, fleshy, with a waxy sheen. If the leaves are wilted, slightly wrinkled or with suspicious spots - do not take this copy, even if the seller will give it at half price. Look closely at the roots as well. A healthy Phalaenopsis will have powerful, light green rhizomes that sit tightly in the substrate. They may protrude, this is normal. But brown, darkened and drying roots should not be. If a plant in a pot staggers a lot, then the root system is generally unviable. Don't buy these copies.

Prices for different varieties of Phalaenopsis are different, from 300 rubles to several thousand. If a plant has a minor defect, and you are offered to buy it at a well reduced price, evaluate your grower's abilities. If you have experience in growing orchids, you can buy such a flower. Care and care will help you restore the decorativeness of the flower, and you will definitely wait for its magnificent flowering.

flower description

Phalaenopsis is an exotic flowering plant of the Orchid family, an epiphyte. Its homeland is the tropical rainforests of Indonesia, Australia, and Southeast Asia. Phalaenopsis has only one growth point - its basal rosette of leaves. The average orchid grows up to one meter. Breeders have bred hybrid varieties for every taste - from miniature bushes to giants. The color palette is also amazing: from pure whites to almost black colors, as well as pinks, yellows, purples, lilacs and purples of all shades. In addition to pure tones, there are flowers with speckled petals, spots, stains, and even hieroglyphs.

Not so long ago, only the most advanced flower growers were engaged in breeding and growing Phalaenopsis, but now these orchids are increasingly found not only in flower greenhouses, where it is easiest to create suitable tropical conditions for them, but also in ordinary apartments of exotic lovers. In this article we will tell you what conditions will be comfortable for a flower if it lives with you in the same apartment.

You can find more detailed information about the plant, as well as a description of the species and varieties of Phalaenopsis.

Phalaenopsis orchid care at home

Start caring for your new pet as soon as you get home from the store. The flower hardly tolerates a change of residence. If you have chosen a beautiful strong plant, in which all the roots look strong and healthy, and the peduncle, tall and elastic, is strewn with flowers of extraordinary beauty, then the best thing is to leave the flower alone for a couple of weeks. How to care for Phalaenopsis at this time? No way! At this time, neither watering, nor feeding, nor transplanting Phalaenopsis is necessary. It is also not necessary to put it on the windowsill next to other flowers, let it stand on the sidelines, in partial shade, as if in quarantine. Inspect the flower regularly. If in a pot the substrate consists of large pieces of bark, the roots are gray-green in color, the plant looks healthy, then it does not need a transplant. Move the plant pot to the place of honor prepared for it among other green pets and start taking care of it according to all the rules.

Healthy Phalaenopsis bushes are transplanted no more than once every two to three years, when its substrate turns into dust. But there are good reasons to transplant a plant urgently.

For example, during quarantine, you found that on Phalaenopsis the leaves began to wither and sag, and the soil, drying up, became like a caked washcloth. Or if the plant has black spots or other signs of rot on the roots. In both cases, Phalaenopsis should be transplanted into another pot with a new substrate, and without waiting for the end of flowering.

Remove the plant from the planting container, rinse its root system gently under a warm shower. If the soil is poorly washed, leave the orchid in a bowl of water for a while. Then free the roots from the soil, shake off the water. Cut off rotten, damaged and too long roots. Sprinkle slices with crushed activated or charcoal. Leave Phalaenopsis for a while, overnight, in a dry bowl, so that all sections are tightened and dry. In the morning, plant the plant in a new, pre-disinfected pot in a soil mixture suitable for epiphytic plants. At the bottom of the pot, lay out a layer of the largest pieces of the substrate, and with smaller pieces of the substrate, fill the voids between the roots to the base of the outlet. Leave two to three cm free on top of the pot, so that as the aerial roots grow, there is a place where to pour the substrate. A large plant with dense, heavy leaves must be tied to a support and strengthened so that it does not stagger.

If the root system of a flower has been severely damaged, it will be difficult for it to recover. Help the plant. Put the flower together with the pot in a plastic bag for a couple of weeks to create greenhouse conditions for the diseased plant with constant humidity and temperature. Ventilate it from time to time. Pre-cut the flower stalk and place in a vase with settled water. It is better to sacrifice a peduncle than to lose the whole flower. A cut peduncle with butterfly flowers will serve as a consolation for a long time.

Other reasons for transplanting Phalaenopsis into a new pot:

• too small capacity. This can be determined not only by the roots that stick out above the pot, but by the roots that filled the entire pot inside and displaced the substrate. Phalaenopsis should be transplanted into such a slightly larger pot so that, in addition to the roots, enough substrate is placed in it for support. It is better to transplant after flowering.
• if all the leaves fell off in one direction during transportation, the peduncle with its support is also tilted, healthy roots stick out too much. Transplant the flower into a normal pot with good support, fill the voids with a suitable substrate.

If the orchid feels good, the leaves are elastic, the roots are light green, alive, we do not recommend disturbing the flower. If you want to transplant Phalaenopsis into a new beautiful flowerpot, then it is better to do this in early spring and only after the orchid has finished flowering.

In any case, after each transplant, do not water the plant for the first three or four days, let the disturbed roots tighten their wounds.

The soil

Phalaenopsis are epiphytic plants. In the wild, they grow on trees. Their roots are aerial. They are used not only to strengthen the plant on the bark and branches of trees, but also to feed the plant from the air. The flower also receives moisture and oxygen with the help of its powerful roots. Therefore, Phalaenopsis categorically do not grow in ordinary garden or forest soil and do not tolerate prolonged flooding. The substrate for them is more loose, light, moisture and breathable. Suitable ready-made soil for epiphytic or orchid plants. We recommend that you study the composition of the soil. Sometimes it is not suitable for growing Phalaenopsis due to its high water capacity.

It is not at all difficult to prepare the soil yourself. Collect bark from fallen trees in a pine forest, dense, without resin. Grind it into pieces from 1 to 3 cm, add the same size pieces of charcoal, foam, wine corks. Stir. Put in a saucepan and boil for 10 minutes. The composition of the substrate is a little strange, but it will do as a support for the Butterfly Orchid! If the room has dry air, you can add a little sphagnum moss to the substrate, just a little, otherwise it will fill the entire space and prevent the roots from breathing freely. In addition, a large amount of moss will retain moisture, excess of which can harm the roots. In any case, you should not overfill the pot with substrate, so as not to interfere with air circulation between the roots.

Humidity

Tropical beauty grows best with high ambient humidity. If it is not enough, Phalaenopsis may stop growing, buds will stop opening on it, flowers will begin to dry out. It is necessary to maintain humidity in the room with a flower in the range of 60 - 80%. The minimum allowable humidity is 30-40%. At low humidity and high temperatures, place the flower pot in a tall tray with wet expanded clay or pebbles. In no case should the pot stand in water. Water can be poured into wide containers or plates, which are placed around the orchid pot. Phalaenopsis likes regular spraying of its leaves and surrounding air in the morning, especially during those periods of its life when heating is turned on in houses. By night, there should be no water in the axils of the leaves and at the point of growth.

Phalaenopsis pot and watering

For this orchid, a not very large translucent plastic pot or similar glass container with holes in the bottom and sides is suitable, in which the state of the substrate and the root system will be constantly under your control. The plant needs a pot for support. The size of the pot should be suitable for the powerful root system of the plant. In a pot that is too small, the roots will be injured and stick out, and in a pot that is too large, moisture will accumulate and the substrate will not dry out well, which will eventually lead to rotting of the roots.

A translucent pot is perfect

If you don't really like the pattern of intertwined roots in the substrate, you can hide it by placing the pot in a wide multi-colored planter. Drainage holes at the bottom of the pot are required, as water stagnation is not allowed due to the danger of root rot. A transparent pot is also good because you will constantly watch how the substrate dries out after the next watering. Under normal humidity, healthy roots are green, drying out, they brighten. Dry substrate and light roots serve as a signal for the next watering.

If you still planted Phalaenopsis in a dark pot, you will have to feel the soil moisture at the depth of the pot by touch. Carefully rake the substrate one or two cm deep, see if it's damp there. If dry, you can water again. Drain excess water from the pan. Use only settled or boiled water. Previously, they used rainwater, but with the deterioration of the ecology in cities, many harmful impurities began to appear in precipitation.

How to water Phalaenopsis:

• in the heat - every 2-3 days;
• in spring and autumn - once a week;
• in winter - once every two weeks.

If you notice that condensation often collects on the walls of the pot between waterings, then make additional holes in the walls of the pot for better air circulation.

Let's talk about another popular method of watering Phalaenopsis. The pot with the plant is placed for two to three hours in a large container with warm settled water so that the water covers 1/3 of the pot. This bathing can be replaced by prolonged watering - continuously, for 20 minutes, pour warm water into the pot until the substrate in the pot is completely wet and saturated with moisture in the right amount. The roots of the orchid will noticeably turn green. After bathing, place the pot in a pan so that excess water drains out of it through the drainage holes. Excess water must be drained immediately.

If the air temperature in the room stays above 30 degrees for a long time, bathing is carried out once every 5 days.

We draw your attention to the fact that the quality of the water is an important point for the well-being of the Phalaenopsis. If you water it with tap water, even warm, then over time, rusty or white spots will appear on the leaves and roots, depending on the excess of salts in the water. It is possible to get rid of plaque with the help of milk or lemon water, with which it is necessary to wash the leaves of the plant. If you use distilled water for irrigation, in which there are no salts and trace elements at all, fertilizers for epiphytic plants should be added to such water when watering. It is best to water with filtered or boiled water, heated by two to three grams. above room temperature.

Sometimes, for the cultivation of Phalaenopsis, special epiphytic woven bamboo or wooden baskets are used, in which the light green flower roots with a silvery sheen develop freely, effectively wrapping themselves around the slats of the basket, both inside and outside.

But we do not recommend ceramic pots for growing Phalaenopsis. Powerful roots grow into the walls of such a pot and complicate the process of removing the plant from the pot during transplantation. Serious damage to the root system of the flower is possible.

Location and lighting

Phalaenopsis love good lighting. Daylight hours must be at least 12 hours. A flower pot is best placed on a windowsill in a southeast, east or west direction. It is better not to put on the windowsills of the southern direction - the leaves can get burned. But not far from the southern windows, on a table or hanging shelf, this orchid will grow beautifully. If you have only north windows, only a place directly on the windowsill is suitable for an orchid. © site

In the period from autumn to spring, the plant will need additional lighting. Don't worry - Phalaenopsis grow well in artificial light. You can use this property of theirs when choosing a place in the back of the living room. You just need to keep in mind that over time, Phalaenopsis leans towards the light with its entire body. Therefore, it must occasionally be rotated 180 degrees to prevent tipping or falling out of the pot.

Lighting is especially necessary for a flower when forcing a peduncle and a set of buds. At this time, it is advisable to put the pot closer to the light and not disturb. Do not rotate, do not rearrange from place to place. Leave these manipulations until the last bud opens. Now, at the time of flowering, you can rearrange the pot deep into the room, in well-lit partial shade.

Temperature

The summer temperature of the flower content is allowed from 24 to 30 gr. In principle, this is the usual room temperature at which we all live in the summer. If the temperature is above 32 degrees for a long time, the flower may drop buds and flowers, the leaves will begin to wither. Try to keep the temperature within reasonable limits by spraying the flower and the surrounding area, placing the pot in a tray of wet pebbles, using a split system. To stimulate the formation of flower buds, we recommend keeping night temperatures five to six degrees lower than daytime ones.

In winter, the optimum temperature for the growth of Phalaenopsis is 18 - 25 gr. For a couple of days, the plant will withstand a temperature of 10-15 degrees, if longer, then it is not a fact that it will not get sick. Under the influence of low temperatures, the roots of Phalaenopsis cease to absorb moisture, the plant begins to consume the nutrients and water accumulated earlier in the leaves. The leaves begin to wrinkle, lose their elasticity. Novice flower growers think that the orchid lacks moisture, and begin to water the plant intensively, which aggravates the situation. Frozen roots cannot absorb water and rot. In order to avoid this situation, we recommend keeping a thermometer on the windowsill next to the pot to monitor the temperature. Place the flower pot in such a way that it does not come into contact with cold glass.

Phalaenopsis love fresh air. Do not forget to regularly ventilate the room, even in winter, while protecting the flower from drafts so as not to provoke any.

During the winter dormancy of Phalaenopsis, a couple of weeks after flowering, it is advisable to keep the flower in a cool place, at a temperature of 15 - 17 degrees. Keep in mind - the lower the temperature, the less the humidity in the room should be, less spraying, less watering. And vice versa. The critical temperature for a flower is considered to be below 5 gr.

How to fertilize a Phalaenopsis orchid

Properly selected fertilizers for the Phalaenopsis orchid are a very important component of its growth and flowering. All the nutrients these orchids get from the roots. Therefore, it is worth feeding it with liquid water-soluble fertilizers for orchids. Suitable fertilizers "Kemira-Lux" in a dose reduced by 2 times. If the plant has few leaves, it needs to be fed with fertilizers for orchids, where nitrogen predominates. But don't overdo it! Read the instructions. Otherwise, the growth of green leaves will go to the detriment of the formation of a peduncle. If there are enough leaves, from 4 to 6 in a rosette, and there is still no peduncle, then Phalaenopsis should be fed with fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and potassium, until flowering begins.

In flower shops, before selling Phalaenopsis, they are sometimes fed to stimulate flowering with long-lasting fertilizers in the form of small balls. These balls gradually dissolve in the substrate over time. Keep this in mind when you decide to feed your pet for the first time. First, make sure that all store-bought fertilizer has dissolved. It is better to wait and give the plant a break from them for a couple of months.

The flower is usually fed once every two weeks in the summer, and once a month in the winter. During flowering and during dormancy, Phalaenopsis does not need to be fed!

Blooming Phalaenopsis

Many people wonder how to make Phalaenopsis bloom at home? Different varieties of this butterfly orchid bloom at different ages. You need to know the age of your plant. Why is your Phalaenopsis orchid not blooming? Perhaps because he is still young. If you bought a non-flowering bush, and at home he is clearly not going to please you with a flower arrow - do not be upset ahead of time. Some Phalaenopsis bloom at the age of one and a half years, others - when they are 3 years old. You can determine the age by counting the number of shoots. In an adult plant, ready for flowering, they are from 5 to 8 pieces. If there are fewer shoots, and the orchid is gaining buds, this is not always good. It happens that a too young Phalaenopsis orchid does not have enough strength to recover after flowering, it may even die. If you have such a case, and a young specimen threw out a peduncle, it is better to cut it off.

Different varieties of Phalaenopsis bloom at different times of the year. For some, the peak of flowering occurs at the end of spring - summer, for others - in winter. Some bloom for two months, while others last for six months or more. Phalaenopsis flowers are very dense, they hold tightly on the peduncle from a month to two. The flower stalks themselves live much longer. Large-flowered Phalaenopsis bloom almost all year round due to the ability of their flower stalks to lengthen, branch and gain new buds during flowering. After flowering, such flower stalks should not be cut, because they will develop and bloom more than once. In addition, so-called air "children" are often formed on them.

An adult plant produces several flower stalks a year - in mid-spring and early autumn. If a butterfly orchid has released an arrow in autumn or winter, you should take care that the peduncle does not die due to short daylight hours. We recommend that you purchase a phyto lamp - a special lamp for artificial lighting of plants in the dark season. These lamps give a lot of light without drying out the air around the flowers. Turn on such lamps when it becomes necessary to extend daylight hours to 10 - 12 hours.

Another necessary condition for the flowering of some varieties of Phalaenopsis is a difference in day and night temperatures of 5–6 degrees, preferably throughout the year. Creating such conditions can be problematic. From late spring to early autumn, these orchids can be kept outdoors. Then the difference between day and night temperatures is formed naturally. At other times, when the Phalaenopsis are indoors, you will have to ventilate the room with the flower well at night, not forgetting that orchids are afraid of drafts.

rest period

Phalaenopsis has faded, what to do next? After the inflorescences fall off, let the Phalaenopsis rest for a while. Move the pot to a darker cool place. Reduce watering by three times. Do not feed, transplant, spray. Perhaps the old lower leaves will turn yellow and dry out - this is a natural process, do not be alarmed. The peduncle itself, after flowering, may dry out, then prune the orchid. In some varieties of Phalaenopsis, the peduncle remains green. In this case, the options are:

• You can leave the peduncle as is. Then new buds will appear on it over time.
• You can cut the peduncle to the first bud, then over time a new peduncle will grow from this bud.
• You can cut off the peduncle completely, and put it in a vase with warm clean water. Then he may eventually have a new kidney.

Such a dormant period is simply necessary for an adult plant in order to accumulate more strength for a new flowering. No more than three months later, new buds form on the flower, and flowering begins.

If this did not happen, Phalaenopsis did not bloom at the right time, the reason must be found. Read the rules for Phalaenopsis care from the beginning, find your mistakes and try to stimulate its flowering in a few months.

cut phalaenopsis

What could be more beautiful than a bouquet of orchids? Bouquets made up of tropical varieties of orchids are presented as rarely as they are treated to real aged French champagne. From the 19th century to the present day, these are the most expensive flowers grown for cutting. Only some types of orchids, and Phalaenopsis among them, can stand for many days and even weeks and at the same time maintain freshness and aroma.

If you decide to purchase a cut Phalaenopsis, pay attention, first of all, to its petals and sepals.

• Flowers with soft, thin, frosted petals and sepals tend to be short-lived.
• Vitreous tepals and protruding veins occur in fading flowers.

If the petals and sepals are strong to the touch, and even hard, and look shiny, like wax, then you can buy such a Phalaenopsis, it will stand in a vase with water for a long time. And you can still extend his life. Here are some tips:

1. If you buy Phalaenopsis in the autumn-winter period, try to pack it carefully to protect it from cold and wind.
2. Do not turn the bouquet upside down - the transport liquid will leak out of the capsule.
3. If you brought home a bouquet from the cold, do not rush to release it from the packaging. Let it stand in a warm room for at least an hour. A sudden change in temperature can be more dangerous for a flower than the absence of water.
4. Before putting the flower in a vase, use a sharp knife to renew the oblique cut of the stem under running water. This operation must be repeated every two to three days in order to avoid blockage of the conductive vessels through which water rises to the flowers.
5. The water in the vase should be clean and soft. Use boiled, distilled, or filtered water just above room temperature. No preservatives should be added to the water. Moreover, special inscriptions are usually written on the labels of preservatives: “Attention! Not intended for orchids! The water in the vase can not be changed completely, it is enough to add a little fresh portion.
6. Keep in mind that Phalaenopsis in the cut, as well as in a pot, do not like cold and drafts. They should never be stored in the refrigerator. However, they also do not like the bright sun, dry indoor air and heat above 32 degrees.
7. Do not put a vase of flowers next to a vase filled with fruit. Ripe fruits release ethylene gas, which shortens the life of orchid flowers. Withered flowers have the same property - to release gas. Therefore, they should be immediately removed from the peduncle and, fallen off, from the table.

Phalaenopsis can be combined with other flowers. For example, in a bouquet with roses, peony tulips or peonies, it looks great. Only its stem should be placed in a common vase in a separate container or test tube with distilled water. Then he is not afraid if a preservative is added to the common vase to extend the life of the bouquet.
Cut branches of Phalaenopsis are valued and loved for their durability, tenderness and high decorative effect. They are so beautiful, colorful and unusual that they are often used in wedding decorations. © site

Conclusion

Phalaenopsis is considered the most unpretentious of all types of orchids, moreover, the most beautiful and long-blooming. During flowering, it invariably becomes the center of all family life. A beautiful and healthy plant speaks of a well-groomed house in which peace and mutual understanding reign. If you take care of him as a family member, with love and understanding, Phalaenopsis will live with you for many years, decorating the interior of your apartment with its extraordinary beauty.

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Orchid Phalaenopsis - home care

A beautiful flower, the Phalaenopsis orchid, which is easy to care for at home, raises a lot of questions for many housewives. Including how to water, what to feed, when to transplant, what to do after flowering, which pot to choose, where to put in the apartment, if you get sick, the leaves turn yellow, plaque appeared, and many others. All the actual problems that exist when growing exotic at home are solvable, and in order to save your plant, read the article on how to do everything right and see the photo.

Home care

Orchid (orchidee phalaenopsis) does not like direct sunlight and drafts, so you should choose a place with diffused light, east or northeast. If the choice is small and only the south side remains, make sure that the beauty is in a light shade, as direct sunlight can leave burns on the leaves. To prevent the flower from growing lopsided and starting to lean, rotate the pot every few weeks.
However, during the formation of buds, it is better not to turn the exotic.

The optimal temperature regime for flowering beauty is +18 ° ... +25 ° С. Although the flower will survive higher or lower temperatures, but for comfortable growth, it is worth adhering to these indicators.

Humidity and good ventilation are also essential for healthy growth. Lack of moisture often causes the flower to fade quickly. Drying out of the substrate in the pot will immediately affect the leaves in the form of yellowish spots, leading to the drying of the root system. If you want the phalaenopsis orchid to bloom beautifully and luxuriantly, home care should be without the following typical mistakes of many housewives. Take note:

Overwatering leads to rotting of the roots, is fraught with the death of a pet. Remember, the plant is recommended to be kept in a basin of water, and not poured from above.

drafts won't do any good. In the cold season, do not open the window on which the flower is located or remove it to ventilate the room

dry air Nothing beats the wrong watering. The orchid is a flower of the tropics and prefers high or moderate humidity, keep it away from radiators

direct sunlight it is better to replace it with scattered or darken

Produce watering and spraying better in the morning

fertilizers should not be deposited immediately after purchase. Most likely, the beauty was fed in the store, so wait two weeks if you are not going to transplant. If there is a transplant, then you need to fertilize the flower no earlier than 14-17 days after it has moved to a new pot

Blooming exotic

The flowering period of an orchid lasts up to three months, but if this does not happen, it is necessary to stimulate it so that the plant wakes up:

When caring for a capricious exotic, the topic of feeding is always relevant. Therefore, we will dwell in more detail on how to feed the phalaenopsis orchid. Experienced flower growers successfully apply Bona Forte fertilizer for orchids once a month in winter, and twice a month in summer. You can also use fertilizer Orchid Quick, Greenworld Bona Forte, Pocon, Uniflor, Reasil for orchids, Etisso, Fertik and others.

Remember to dilute the fertilizer strictly according to the instructions (and even slightly reduce the amount of nutrients in relation to water), as a strong concentration of the solution can burn the roots, which are so easy to lose and difficult to grow. Always fertilize after watering.

After flowering is completed, it is necessary to cut the arrow just above the leaf growth node, regardless of whether it has dried up or not. New arrows will grow from here in 4-5 months.

Flower transplant at home

When purchasing an orchid, as a rule, we choose a flowering plant. All the forces of the plant are aimed at the formation of buds, for this reason it is recommended to wait for the flowering of phalaenopsis to finish, and then transplant. However, there are some cases (exceptions) in which it is necessary and necessary to relocate an exotic beauty:

• Orchid roots have come out of the pot or there are many damaged areas. In this case, it is necessary to remove the damaged roots, treat the sections with crushed coal (Kornevin preparation) and transplant into a fresh substrate.
• The orchid sits freely in a pot and dangles. Then just add the substrate to the existing flowerpot or immediately transplant it into a container of a suitable size.
• If the plant has developed one-sided and constantly collapses, then the first solution is to put the pot in a heavier pot, the second is to align the support with the peduncle during transplantation
• I just wanted to transplant an orchid. Perhaps it is better to wait until the end of flowering and take a closer look at a variety of planters?

It is necessary to transplant into a pot with transparent smooth walls. It is not advisable to transplant into a pot with longitudinal slots on the sides, the roots will quickly dry out. The container should be chosen 1-2 cm higher and wider than the previous one. Phalaenopsis is transplanted every two years, usually at the end of flowering. The procedure is quite easy and subject even to a beginner.

Step by step:

1. Hold the pot with one hand, and with the other, between your thumb and forefinger, gently pinch the leaf plates coming out of the substrate. Turn the planter over and you will have the root system in your hand. At the same time, do not try to raise the flower pot high, otherwise, when turned over, the substrate will begin to crumble and scatter around the room
2. Unravel the roots and clean out the remnants of the soil mixture. Cut off damaged and decaying roots with a sterile scalpel or scissors, treat fresh cuts with charcoal
3. Remove faded arrows and aged orchid leaves. Treat with any antiseptic or the same coal
4. Leave the flower to dry for 2-3 hours
5. Lay drainage at the bottom of the pot, place the plant and sprinkle with new orchid substrate. Sprinkle the bark over the top layer. Water after transplanting in a pan. Top dressing after transplantation is carried out no earlier than 2-3 weeks later.

Diseases and pests of orchids, how to deal with them

If your beauty is dear to you, you need to protect her from diseases and pests, since with the advent of enemies and ailments, you can lose a flower forever. That is why proper resuscitation is simply necessary:

Phalaenopsis will delight you with chic flowering, if you properly care for and follow the simple tips and recommendations of experienced breeders. In this case, you can enjoy the unusual flowering of the beauty for more than one year.

Of all the orchids, the Phalaenopsis is considered the most popular. On the one hand, this is due to the fact that this particular orchid can most often be found on sale. On the other hand, there is a firmly rooted opinion that phalaenopsis is the most unpretentious and most suitable orchid for growing at home. Although this statement can be argued. There are many other, not particularly whimsical and no less beautiful representatives of orchids. Take the same or . But they will be discussed separately.
Few beginner flower growers know that phalaenopsis, in turn, are divided into several species that differ from one another. The most popular and widespread - Phalaenopsis Pink, F. Luddemana, F. Pleasant and F. Hybrid(especially common). But, despite some differences, the rules for caring for them are the same.

Phalaenopsis bloom

The duration of flowering of your plant depends on how correct the care of phalaenopsis will be and the conditions of its maintenance are favorable. Subject to all the necessary rules, the flower will delight you with flowering for up to six months! But it's okay if this period is less. After all, phalaenopsis blooms twice, and often thrice a year. Depending on the species and variety, from three to forty flowers are formed on one peduncle. The size of the flowers themselves can be from three to fifteen centimeters. Often you can also find a lush plant with a meter arrow, on which about a hundred beautiful flowers bloom!

Phalaenopsis orchid: home care

Lighting

For normal development and flowering, the plant needs very good and long (at least 12 hours) lighting during the day. If you plan to grow phalaenopsis on a windowsill, then preference should be given to east, northeast or west windows. North and south windows are not suitable for this indoor flower. The first ones give little light, and artificial lighting is needed. By placing the plant on the windowsill of the south window, you risk exposing it to the scorching sun. In this case, the flower must be protected from them or placed not on the windowsill, but near the window, on a table or stand so as to avoid direct sunlight. In order for the plant to develop evenly and not look “one-sided”, periodically (about once every 10 days) rotate it relative to the light source. The exception is the period of bud formation. At this time, it is not recommended to touch the flower.

Good lighting is the key to flowering. Most often, the reason that phalaenopsis does not bloom is a lack of light.

Temperature

Normal room temperature for phalaenopsis is quite acceptable. There is no need to create special conditions here. The optimum summer temperature for this orchid is + 20-25 degrees, and in winter + 18-20. Moreover, the plant can easily withstand a short-term increase in temperature up to +40 degrees, and a decrease to +12. But at the same time, it must be borne in mind that cold drafts for phalaenopsis pose a serious danger! However, stagnant air is also not desirable. If possible, then on warm days it can be taken out to fresh air.

Watering and humidity

Phalaenopsis should be watered regularly and plentifully. But! The usual rules and watering techniques that apply to other houseplants are not suitable for orchids. Phalaenopsis can be watered only after the soil has completely dried out. This rule must be observed strictly! Especially if the plant is kept in relatively cool conditions. Waterlogging of the soil, combined with low temperatures, is detrimental to the plant! Although overdrying is also highly undesirable, it is better to slightly dry the soil in a pot than to allow excess moisture. Determining the need for watering phalaenopsis is usually not difficult. The traditional pot for orchids is transparent, and through its walls it is clearly visible whether there is enough moisture or it is time to water.

The pale color of the green roots of phalaenopsis indicates a systematic lack of moisture.

When watering, you should especially beware of getting water into the axils of the leaves. In order to completely eliminate this danger and achieve complete and uniform moistening of the substrate in a pot with phalaenopsis, the irrigation method is used - “immersion”. With such watering, the pot with the plant is lowered into a container with water so that the water level is slightly lower than the upper level of the pot, and saturation with water occurs through the drainage holes.

By the way. Especially for orchids, transparent watering containers are sold.

For irrigation, use only well-settled, and even better - filtered or boiled water. Sometimes watered with distilled water.

Maintaining the required air humidity (optimally at the level of 30-40%) is a necessary and very important condition for keeping phalaenopsis at home. While spraying it highly undesirable! Water will inevitably drain through the leaves into the sinuses and core of the plant, which is fraught with decay. Therefore, it is better to use another. As an example, put a pot of orchids in a tray with wet expanded clay. You can periodically wash the phalaenopsis under a warm shower, but after that you must definitely wipe the leaves dry and do not immediately put the flower in a bright place. Let it stand in partial shade until the leaves are completely dry.

From dry air, phalaenopsis leaves become lethargic, flowers and buds fall off.

top dressing

For fertilizing phalaenopsis, it is best to use specialized fertilizers. A good result is also given by the use of Kemira fertilizer in a concentration of a gram of fertilizer per liter of water. Phalaenopsis is fed with this solution after watering twice a month. If the concentration of fertilizers is halved, then it is possible to fertilize after each watering (once a week).

Phalaenopsis pruning

This procedure applies mainly to arrows - peduncles, after flowering. He will tell you how to cut it. Do not cut the arrow immediately after flowering. Wait a while. If the phalaenopsis peduncle began to dry out completely, it means that it has outlived its own and can be safely cut off entirely. But if it remains green, it means that it is still able to give flowers. If the arrow has grown too long, then it can be shortened to the desired kidney, leaving about a centimeter of the arrow above it. It is not advisable to cut it too low. Leave at least three kidneys. Otherwise, the next flowering will have to wait a long time.

Phalaenopsis transplant

It is believed that every two to three years the soil substrate for phalaenopsis must be changed. During this time, it becomes unusable (sours, cakes). But if the substrate was compiled correctly and efficiently, then this may not happen. The need to transplant phalaenopsis can be caused rather by a strong growth of the roots when the pot becomes small for them. It is very easy to determine this. The roots in the pot are strongly intertwined, branched, pass through the drainage holes. The technology of correct orchid transplantation is not very simple and worthy of a separate article. But in most cases, it will be enough to limit yourself to transferring to a larger pot with the addition of fresh soil. As for the soil substrate for phalaenopsis itself, only an experienced grower can correctly compose it, it is better for beginners to use a ready-made substrate.

Reproduction of phalaenopsis

Unlike some other members of the orchid family, phalaenopsis propagation at home by seeds and root division is excluded. It remains only the vegetative method - side shoots. Shoots usually appear at the root rosette or on the peduncle. As paradoxical as it sounds, the natural appearance of such shoots indicates improper care for phalaenopsis. And this means that in most cases, shoots for reproduction can not wait. But there is a way out. Their appearance can be caused artificially.

To do this, on the old peduncle (at its base), select a dormant bud and remove the covering scale from it. To make the scale easier to remove, at its base, carefully make a semicircular incision along the contour of the kidney. After that, remove the scale with tweezers. Treat the kidney with a stimulant (Heteroauxin, Epin, Kornevin, etc.). A good result is obtained by processing with natural birch sap or sap. On top of the arrow, you can put on a PE bag to create greenhouse conditions. If everything is done correctly, then in a couple of months leaves will appear, and in another month, roots.

Regardless of whether the shoots appeared naturally or are grown artificially, do not allow them to develop much, this process is to the detriment of the mother plant. For separation, it is enough that the process has a couple of leaflets and air roots (about 5 cm long). Before rooting, dry the separated baby a little (a day is enough). It is best to plant a phalaenopsis baby in the same substrate as for an adult orchid, but in a smaller fraction. That is, if the pieces of bark are too large, grind them. After planting, create greenhouse conditions for the seedling. To do this, you can put it in a mini-greenhouse or cover it with a transparent cap. The temperature for successful rooting is + 22-25 degrees.

If phalaenopsis does not bloom

The most common reason is lack of light, but there may be others.

The break between orchid blooms lasts about three months, this time is usually enough for the plant to rest. But it happens that the time has come, but flowering does not occur. At the same time, the leaves develop well, young ones grow. The reason may be improperly selected fertilizers. Flowering requires fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus, and if it contains mainly nitrogen, then it will develop mainly leaves at the expense of the formation of flower buds.

Phalaenopsis flowering does not come on time and for a simpler reason - the previous flowering took too much strength and, therefore, a longer recovery time is needed.

What should be done in these cases? First of all, provide good lighting (if it is insufficient) and analyze the care of the phalaenopsis. Are you doing everything right? Flowering can be stimulated. For this, special preparations are used (for example, "Bud"). But the most effective way is natural. Average daily temperature drops not only do not harm orchids, but also contribute to the formation of buds. If at night the temperature of the content is lower than the daytime minimum by 6 degrees, then this will stimulate flowering very well. For obvious reasons, this method is most effective in the cold season.

Some features of growing phalaenopsis

• For beginner gardeners, the question sometimes arises - “Why are mostly transparent pots used for orchids?”. Everything is explained very simply. The fact is that the roots of phalaenopsis, along with the leaves, take part in photosynthesis. Therefore, the light must penetrate to them unhindered.
• The aerial roots of phalaenopsis also sometimes put flower growers in a difficult position. - "What to do with them?" And nothing! Moreover, they cannot be cut. In addition to the fact that these roots, like aerial roots, serve as a support for orchids, they are involved in the nutritional process of the plant and are in constant search.
• Phalaenopsis itself receives nutrition from the tree bark, which mainly consists of the substrate for its cultivation.

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Orchids on the windowsill are the dream of most amateur flower growers. But many do not dare to plant them, fearing difficulties in the course of work. Indeed, these flowers are quite capricious. But there are exceptions, for example, the phalaenopsis orchid. They look no less impressive than other varieties, and caring for them at home is incomparably easier. The flower is quite suitable for a novice grower who wants to "work out" before starting to cultivate Cattleya, Miltonia and Ludisia.

What does a phalaenopsis orchid look like?

Phalaenopsis (Phalaenopsis) is one of the many representatives of the Orchid family, a perennial epiphytic plant. In nature, most varieties of this orchid can be found in Southeast Asia, the Philippines, Indonesia, and other islands of the Malay Archipelago. They also grow in other regions with a humid tropical climate.

In nature, phalaenopsis most often settles on tree trunks, using them as a support.

The name ("phalaenopsis" means "resembling a moth"), the plant owes a curiosity. One night in the dark, the director of the Leiden Botanical Garden, Karl Ludwig Blume, who studied the flora of one of the islands between Asia and Australia, mistook these flowers for butterflies.

The average height of an orchid is 50–70 cm. The stem is very short. The leaves are large, fleshy to the touch, up to 30-35 cm long. On each orchid, a maximum of 4-6 leaves are formed at the same time, no more than two per year.

The stem of the phalaenopsis is almost invisible, there are no pseudobulbs, the peduncle often bends

The root system of the plant is very developed, because in nature it absorbs moisture and nutrients for the most part directly from the air. Healthy roots are greenish-silver. Phalaenopsis is an epiphyte, therefore it does not have pseudobulbs typical of most other orchids.

Phalaenopsis roots are covered with a thick layer of velamen, a tissue with which the plant draws moisture and nutrients from the air.

In the countries of North America and Western Europe, phalaenopsis are practically "disposable" plants. A blooming orchid is purchased, when flowering ends, it is simply thrown away.

The height of the curved peduncle reaches 70–80 cm. Each of them has from five to twenty or more flowers with a diameter of 3–8 cm. The central petal (labellum or the so-called lip) contrasts sharply with the rest, standing out with a brighter color and / or a pattern of specks, strokes, stripes, spots. Most often there are different shades of pink, yellow, lilac, green, as well as white and creamy beige. The buds are formed at any time of the year; this orchid does not have a pronounced dormant period. Flowering, depending on the species, lasts from two months to six months.

Phalaenopsis is distinguished by the duration and abundance of flowering

Video: description of phalaenopsis

Varieties popular with flower growers

In nature, there are about 40 varieties of phalaenopsis. But not everyone has adapted to the climate of modern apartments, which is radically different from their usual conditions.

Most often, gardeners grow:

• Phalaenopsis horse (Equestris). It grows naturally in Taiwan and the Philippines. Peduncle inky purple. When the first buds open, it gradually lengthens, more and more flowers are formed. Due to this, flowering stretches for 4-5 months. The flowers are pastel pink, medium-sized (2-3 cm in diameter). In optimal conditions, it blooms twice a year - in spring and autumn.
• Deer-horned Phalaenopsis (Cornucervi). It is most common on the islands of Kalimantan and Sumatra. It owes its name to the unusual shape of the peduncle - it is flattened, branched, with small outgrowths where the buds are formed. Its height is about 40 cm. Each peduncle has 7–12 flowers. The petals are greenish-yellow with red spots, the “lip” is snow-white.
• Phalaenopsis adorable or pleasant (Amabilis). One of the most common varieties in home floriculture. The height of the plant is about 70 cm, the length of the drooping intensively branching peduncle is up to 1.5 m. Each of them has 20–30 flowers with creamy-white or pinkish-yellow petals and a white-yellow-purple “lip”. In nature, their number reaches a hundred. Flower diameter - 8 cm or more. The peak of flowering occurs in late spring and early summer. The buds spread a pleasant aroma reminiscent of orange blossom.
• Phalaenopsis Stewart (Stuartiana). Distinguished by the variegated color of the leaves. The peduncle is intensively branching, on each “shoot” there are 15–20 flowers 4–5 cm in diameter. The main tone of the petals is white or cream (with a dark scarlet spot at the base), the “lip” is orange-yellow with small burgundy spots. Blooms mainly in winter.
• Phalaenopsis Schiller (Schilleriana). "Parent" of most breeding hybrids. It occurs naturally only in the Philippines. The bright green leaves are covered with silvery and dark emerald spots on the outside, the underside is dull red. Peduncle up to 1 m high. Flowers 6–7 cm in diameter. Petals are pinkish-lilac, the shade saturated at the base gradually turns pale closer to the tip. The "lip" is forked, somewhat similar to a two-pronged fork. The peak of flowering occurs in the winter. Properly cared for mature plants often form whole cascades of buds.
• Phalaenopsis Luddemann (Lueddemanniana). The plant is about 15–20 cm high, the peduncle stretches up to 30 cm. Each has a maximum of 7 flowers 3–4 cm in diameter, which have a pleasant, unobtrusive aroma. The petals are lilac-pink, sometimes there are blotches and stripes, white, as well as various shades of yellow and burgundy. Blooms almost all year round. The leaves are light, salad shade.
• Phalaenopsis Sander (Sanderiana). Quite a rare variety. The leaves are variegated. Peduncles 1.5 m or more high, drooping. On each up to 50 buds. The petals are white-lilac, the "lip" is cream, with yellow veins. The peak of flowering is in the summer.
• Phalaenopsis pink (Rosea). A natural miniature orchid no more than 10–15 cm high. The leaf length is 8–10 cm. The peduncle is curved, it has 10–16 flowers up to 3 cm in diameter. The petals can be white-pink or crimson.
• Phalaenopsis Parish (Parisii). Another natural miniature orchid. The height of the peduncle is up to 15 cm, the length of rich green leaves is about 20 cm. On each peduncle, 8–10 small (1.5–2 cm in diameter) flowers bloom simultaneously with cream or vanilla-colored petals. The "lip" is very wide, painted maroon or purple. The aroma is rich, sugary-sweet, like candy.
• Phalaenopsis giant (Gigantea). The name, as you might guess, owes its size. The length of the leaf is up to 1 m, the peduncles are short, only 40–50 cm. Each bud forms 25–30 buds with a diameter of 5–7 cm. The flowers have a slight smell, reminiscent of the aroma of citrus. The color of the petals varies from white and pale yellow to lime and olive. A pattern of purple or chocolate spots and stripes is characteristic.
• Ambon phalaenopsis (Amboinensis). The length of the leaves and the height of the curved peduncle is approximately 25–30 cm. Every year a new peduncle is formed on the orchid, while the old ones continue to grow and branch. Accordingly, flowering gradually becomes more and more abundant. Up to 10 buds are formed on each branch, but they bloom in turn. The orchid blooms mainly in summer. The color of the petals varies from pale yellow to golden orange. The pattern is dull red or brownish stripes.
• Phalaenopsis Philadelphia (Philadelphia). A very popular breeding hybrid, bred on the basis of Schiller and Stuart's phalaenopsis. Flowers 4-6 cm in diameter are painted in various shades of pink and purple. Valued for unpretentiousness and cascading flowering.
• Phalaenopsis hieroglyphic (Hieroglyphica). Another common hybrid The height of the leaves and peduncle is 30–35 cm. The flowers seem to be made of wax, with a pleasant aroma. There are 3-6 of them on each peduncle. The petals are snow-white, covered with a pattern in the form of pink and burgundy specks and strokes.
• Phalaenopsis Royal blue (Royal Blue). Forms two flower stalks at the same time. The petals are sky blue, the "lip" is dark blue. The height of the peduncle is about 60 cm, the diameter of the flower is 8–10 cm. The duration of flowering depends on how regularly top dressing was applied.
• Phalaenopsis Black butterfly (Black Butterfly). selective hybrid. The flowers are large, up to 10 cm in diameter. The petals are very dark purple with a thin white border around the edge. "Lip" white-yellow-lilac.
• Phalaenopsis Golden Beauty. On the plant, 2–3 peduncles are formed simultaneously, each with 15 flowers or more. Petals pale yellow, with a white spot at the base. "Lip" pink, crimson or scarlet.
• Phalaenopsis Mini Mark Maria Teresa (Maria Teresa). It is considered the best variety in the Mini-Mark hybrid series. The length of the leaf is no more than 15 cm. The flowers are medium-sized, 3–4 cm in diameter. The petals are snow-white, strewn with small specks of different shades of yellow, orange and pink. "Lip" terracotta. Flowering lasts 3-4 months.
• Phalaenopsis Amsterdam Jordan (Amsterdam Jordan). Quite a rare hybrid. It was bred in the 19th century, but still has not lost popularity. The height of the orchid is about 50 cm. The petals are raspberry or crimson, covered with burgundy spots with a white border. "Lip" dark cherry shade.
• Phalaenopsis Harlequin (Harlequin). One of the so-called Novelty Phalaenopsis, a hybrid native to Taiwan. They are characterized by a compact rosette of leaves, the presence of numerous peduncles and the correct shape of a flower that looks like a star. In this hybrid, lemon-yellow petals are covered with rounded burgundy spots. In the light, they shine glossy, as if lacquered.

Varieties of phalaenopsis grown at home, pictured

Horse phalaenopsis, if favorable conditions are created for it, blooms twice a year Deer-horned phalaenopsis owes its name to the unusual shape of the peduncle Phalaenopsis adorable - one of the most popular varieties among gardeners Phalaenopsis Stuart can be identified by the variegated leaves Schiller's phalaenopsis is widely used by breeders to breed new varieties of orchids Flowering in Phalaenopsis Luddemann almost continuous Phalaenopsis Sander - one of the rarest varieties of this orchid Phalaenopsis pink - a miniature orchid created by nature itself Phalaenopsis Parish stands out for its unusual shape of the "lip" - one of the most common breeding hybrids. The pattern on the petals of hieroglyphic phalaenopsis really resembles letters in an unknown language. orchids of this shade, you need to be very careful - often their petals turn out to be simply painted
Phalaenopsis Black Butterfly has petals of a very dark shade Phalaenopsis Golden beauty stands out for its abundance of flowering Phalaenopsis Mini-Mark Maria Theresa - one of the most successful miniature hybrids Phalaenopsis Amsterdam Jordan was bred more than a hundred years ago, but is still popular with flower growers Phalaenopsis Harlequin petals are glossy, like as if varnished

Optimal growing conditions

The humid subtropical climate familiar to orchids is radically different from the conditions of modern apartments. Nevertheless, they successfully adapted to them. When caring for a phalaenopsis orchid at home, nothing supernatural is required from the grower.

Table: what conditions do phalaenopsis need

Factor	Recommendations
Location	Window sill facing east, southeast, west. It should be taken into account that the plant really does not like cold drafts, but needs a regular influx of fresh air.
Lighting	Phalaenopsis should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Light partial shade is best. Selected hybrids can exist even under completely artificial lighting. In winter, additional lighting is desirable with the help of conventional fluorescent or special phytolamps. The optimal length of daylight hours is 12–14 hours.
Temperature	Throughout the year, the optimal value is 23–25ºС. The difference between day and night temperatures is no more than 5–7ºС. The critical minimum for a plant is 10–12ºС. Above 35ºС is also undesirable.
Air humidity	Permissible value - 40–50%, optimal - 60–70%. However, good ventilation is essential. If the indicator drops to 30% or lower, the air next to the plants is sprayed daily or the humidity is raised in other ways. Such a procedure is also useful in winter - heating batteries dry the air a lot. The only thing that can not be done in any case is to pour water directly into the pot tray.

It is undesirable to place phalaenopsis on the south window, if there is simply no other place, the plants must be shaded, protecting from direct sunlight

Phalaenopsis tend to reach for the sun, so every 15-20 days the pot is rotated 180º. The exception is the period before flowering. While the buds are forming, the peduncle is carefully tied to a support in the form of a peg. Their pedicels "harden" after about two weeks, after which they will no longer be able to change position.

Material on growing Bauhinia, whose flowers are shaped like orchids, will also be useful:

Embarkation and transfer procedure

Phalaenopsis, like any other orchid, will grow and bloom only in a suitable substrate, which bears little resemblance to soil in the usual sense of the word. Therefore, a plant bought in a store needs to be transplanted as soon as possible. You can purchase a special soil mixture for orchids or make it yourself from small pieces of charcoal, dry sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, pine bark, dried fern roots. All ingredients are taken in approximately equal proportions.

Soil for orchids is not at all like soil in the usual sense of the word.

The pot is chosen transparent - it is easier to control the condition of the roots. In addition, they are involved in photosynthesis in orchids. At the bottom, a drainage layer with a thickness of at least 2–3 cm made of expanded clay or foam chips is required. It is desirable that the container has "legs" - in this case, the substrate does not come into contact with the water in the pan.

A transparent pot allows you to control the condition of the roots and substrate, adjust the frequency of watering

The soil becomes unusable quickly enough, it is salted and caked. Therefore, phalaenopsis are transplanted annually. Any time is suitable for the procedure, with the exception of the flowering period. To remove an orchid from a pot, it is soaked in warm water for several hours. You can replace it with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate to prevent fungal diseases.

The roots are cleaned of pieces of bark. Dried and dead areas are cut off, the sections are sprinkled with crushed chalk, activated charcoal, cinnamon. Then it is desirable to dry them for 6-8 hours. Phalaenopsis is transferred to a new pot, the substrate is covered without compacting it. In this case, the plant should be stable in the pot. Soil should be filled approximately 3/4 of the volume of the container. If aerial roots stick out, this is normal.

There is nothing complicated in transplanting an orchid, even a novice florist can handle the procedure

During the first week, the transplanted orchid is especially carefully protected from direct sunlight. It is watered for the first time only after 5–7 days, top dressing is applied no earlier than a month later.

It is also practiced to grow phalaenopsis (especially miniature ones) on pieces of bark, snags, pressed coconut fiber, imitating their natural habitat. Such compositions look very impressive. Orchid roots are wrapped in a layer of sphagnum moss and securely attached to the support with pieces of wire. Water such plants by spraying sphagnum moss.

Phalaenopsis in compositions that mimic the natural habitat of an orchid look very impressive

Video: how to transplant an orchid

Important nuances of plant care at home

Phalaenopsis is one of the most unpretentious orchids. Even a novice grower can take care of her. The plant does not have a pronounced dormant period, therefore, during the year, watering and fertilizing are carried out in almost the same mode.

Water for irrigation is used only soft and settled, at room temperature. The frequency is adjusted based on the weather outside. In any case, you need to let the substrate dry completely. This can be determined by the fact that condensation ceases to form on the walls of the pot.

If in doubt, it is better to wait a few more days. Phalaenopsis will endure this quite easily. But frequent and abundant watering of the plant is categorically contraindicated. Under normal conditions, once every 3-4 days is enough.

As a general rule, the colder it is outside, the less light and the finer the fraction of the substrate, the less often orchids are watered. Watering at night is highly discouraged.

Water orchids by immersion. The pot with the plant is lowered into a container of water so that it completely covers the soil. As soon as the bubbles stop coming out, the orchid is removed from the container and dried well.

Phalaenopsis is watered by immersion methods, or at least so that drops of water do not fall into the axils of the leaves

Once every 2-3 months it is useful to wash the substrate, getting rid of excess salts. The pot is kept under running water for 5-10 minutes.

Top dressing is applied every 10-12 days. Fertilizers choose those that are specifically designed for orchids. Before this, the plant must be watered. Foliar top dressing is also practiced, but in this case it is necessary to ensure that drops of the solution do not fall into the axils of the leaves, on flowers and buds. At the same time, the concentration of the agent is halved compared to that recommended by the manufacturer.

For feeding phalaenopsis choose special means for orchids

The fact that the phalaenopsis lacks nutrients is evidenced by the “torn” or “corrugated” edges of the petals.

Phalaenopsis bloom

Phalaenopsis flowers can appear at any time. Particular attention should be paid to temperature - the hotter the room, the faster the blooming buds dry and fall. Ethylene, which is released by ripe fruits, especially apples and bananas, has a similar effect.

To stimulate flowering, it is recommended to reduce watering to the required minimum for 2-3 weeks and lower the temperature of the content to 16-18ºС. A difference between day and night temperatures of at least 5ºС is required. Practice shows that the "summer" peduncles are shorter than the "winter", and the buds on them are more crowded, almost without intervals.

In order for a peduncle to form on a phalaenopsis, a small temperature difference is required during the day

After the end of flowering, if the peduncle has not dried up completely, cut off only that part of it that has changed its shade and dried up, smearing the cut with greenery. From the buds remaining on it, lateral "shoots" will form, and buds on them. Such a procedure is undesirable only for young and miniature phalaenopsis, prolonged flowering greatly weakens them.

Phalaenopsis flowering - a well-deserved reward for a florist

Typical florist mistakes

Often, the florist himself is to blame for the deterioration in the appearance of the Phalaenopsis orchid. It is necessary to correct individual errors in care in time, and the state of the plant will return to normal.

Table: how errors appear in caring for an orchid

What does the plant look like	What is the reason
No flowering	Excess or deficiency of nutrients
Withering, drying buds	Changes in temperature, other sudden changes in conditions of detention, cold drafts
rotting roots	Low room temperature combined with abundant watering
Sluggish, shriveled leaves, sometimes with small sunken spots	Damage to the root system or too high a content temperature
dark green leaves	Lack of light
Longitudinal cracks in leaves	Mechanical damage. Or a whole range of factors - abundant watering, heat and low humidity, excessive feeding. Also, the cause may be a sharp drop in temperature immediately after watering.
Watery blisters on leaves	Too much watering
Dark spots with a yellowish border on the leaves	Sun burns. Especially often they appear if drops of water fall on the leaves during watering.
Yellowing or browning leaves	Stagnation of water in the axils of the leaves, especially in combination with low temperature and light deficiency

Yellowing leaves indicate improper watering, combined with less than ideal orchid conditions.

Diseases, pests and their control

Phalaenopsis rarely suffers from diseases and pests with proper care. Nevertheless, not a single flower grower is immune from this. Therefore, do not forget about preventive measures:

• regular ventilation of the room;
• free, without crowding placement of flower pots on the windowsill;
• at least a two-week "quarantine" for newly acquired copies;
• the use of only sharply sharpened tools for any work with the plant, the treatment of all “wounds”;
• immediate removal from the windowsill of specimens with suspicious symptoms.

Table: diseases and pests typical for phalaenopsis

Disease or pest	Symptoms	Control and prevention measures
spider mite	A thin translucent "web" braiding parts of the plant, fading and discoloring leaves	Prevention: maintaining high air humidity, weekly irradiation of plants with a quartz lamp, spraying with infusion of onion or garlic gruel, decoction of cyclamen tubers. Fight: use of acaricides (Neoron, Sunmite, Apollo, Vertimek). For each subsequent treatment, it is recommended to take a new drug, the pest quickly develops immunity
Aphid	Small insects sticking to the underside of leaves, flower stalks and buds. Affected tissues are covered with small beige dots, the plant dries	Prevention: regular shower for plants, spraying with any infusions with a pungent odor. As raw materials, you can use the arrows of onions, garlic, lemon peel, tomato tops, dry tobacco leaves and so on. Fight: apply a foam of household or green potassium soap to the plant, wash in the shower. If there are few aphids, you can use the same infusions, treating the flower 3-4 times a day. If there is no effect, Iskra-Bio, Inta-Vir, Fitoverm are used.
Shchitovka	Flat "growths" of a gray-brown color, gradually increasing in volume, the tissues around them, acquiring a reddish-yellow tint	Prevention: keeping the plant clean, regularly airing the room. Fight: remove visible scale insects (for this you need to lubricate their shells with kerosene, turpentine, machine oil and wait 2-3 hours), treat the plant with Fufanon, Phosbecid, Aktara
thrips	Small black "sticks" on the leaves, blurry yellowish spots on the front side and thin silver strokes on the wrong side	Prevention: spraying the plant with laundry soap foam, the same infusions that are recommended for fighting aphids. Fight: the use of drugs Mospilan, Spintor
Anthracnose	Small brownish spots on the leaves, gradually darkening and tightening with a layer of pinkish-yellow bloom	Prevention: periodic replacement of water for irrigation with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate; adding sifted wood ash or crushed chalk to the substrate. Fight: removal of all affected tissues, disinfection of “wounds” (wash with 1% copper sulfate, sprinkle with activated carbon powder, cover with brilliant green), reduce watering to the required minimum, use fungicides (Ridomil-Gold, Byleton, Horus)
powdery mildew	Powdery whitish coating, similar to spilled flour. Gradually it darkens and "compacts"	Prevention: regular shower for the plant, spraying the soil with a solution of soda ash or mustard powder. Fight: washing the leaves with soapy foam, treating the flower with a solution of colloidal sulfur. If there is no effect - spraying with Immunocytophyte, Topsin-M, Fitosporin
Brown bacterial rot	"Wet" translucent brownish spots on the leaves, gradually increasing in size and merging with each other	Prevention: competent care of the plant, especially proper watering, monthly spraying of the substrate with 1% copper sulphate. Fight: for resuscitation, the plants carry out the removal of all affected tissues, the disinfection of “wounds”, the reduction of watering to the required minimum, the treatment of the flower and soil with any fungicide. Then the plant is placed in quarantine for 10-12 days. In case of relapse, it remains only to throw it away
root rot	Blackening roots that are slimy to the touch, browning leaves, mildew on the substrate	Prevention: proper watering, periodic water replacement with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, adding Trichodermin, Gliocladin granules to the soil, monthly spraying with 0.2% Fundazol. Fight (only possible if the disease is noticed at an early stage): transplanting the plant into a new pot using a sterilized substrate. The roots need to be cut, removing all infected tissues, treat the "wounds", then soak them in a fungicide solution for 3-4 hours. Dry well before planting
Fusarium	Yellowing leaves that have lost their tone, gradually twisting into tubules and acquiring a pinkish tint	Prevention: creating optimal or close conditions for the plant, monthly treatment with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol. Control: the same measures apply as for the control of brown bacterial rot

External manifestations of symptoms of phalaenopsis damage by diseases and pests: photo

The spider mite is not an insect, therefore, special preparations are used to combat it - acaricides Aphids are one of the most "omnivorous" pests of indoor plants, they also do not disdain folk remedies in the fight against scale insects - the pest is reliably protected by a strong shell Small black "sticks" on the leaves are nothing more than thrips themselves The development of anthracnose is promoted by stale air in indoors and high humidity Powdery mildew seems to be a harmless plaque that is easy to wipe off a leaf, but in fact it is a dangerous disease. the disease is noticed at an early stage of development. Orchids, which have optimal or close conditions, suffer from fusarium quite rarely

Reproduction methods

At home, phalaenopsis reproduces vegetatively. - a very complex and time-consuming procedure, which also requires absolute sterility and the use of special nutritional formulations. It is also impossible to guarantee compliance with varietal characteristics. The optimal time for breeding is the end of winter and spring.

Reproduction by "offspring"

"Babies" of phalaenopsis are formed at a slightly lower temperature of maintenance (20-21ºС). Under normal conditions, the plant is likely to produce a flower spike. Most often they are formed at the base of the stem or from "sleeping" buds on the peduncle. The latter can be treated with cytokinin paste.

"Babies" in phalaenopsis are formed mainly on the peduncle

The “offsprings” are left on the orchid until the leaves on them grow up to 2–3 cm in length, and the roots grow up to 5–6 cm. . Until they begin to grow, it is advisable to cover the container with a plastic bag or a cut plastic bottle.

Cytokinin paste - a drug that stimulates the flowering and reproduction of orchids

Video: rooting "babies" of phalaenopsis

Reproduction by peduncles

The peduncle remaining green after flowering 1.5–2 months after all the buds have fallen off is cut off at the base and divided into 4–5 parts no more than 20 cm long. Each of them should have a growth bud. Cuts are made at an angle of 40-45º.

On each part of the peduncle there must be a growth bud

Then they are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon, crushed chalk. "Shanks" are horizontally placed in a container filled with fine expanded clay or sand, covered with wet sphagnum moss on top. The container is covered with a plastic bag or a glass cap. In order for the growth buds to “wake up”, a temperature of at least 25–27ºС, daylight hours lasting 14–16 hours and lower heating are required. The "greenhouse" is ventilated daily, getting rid of the accumulated condensate, the substrate is maintained in a moderately humid state.

The "greenhouse" with cuttings must be regularly ventilated, otherwise the development of rot is very likely

Video: propagation of phalaenopsis by cuttings

plant division

The method is suitable only for absolutely healthy, powerful and developed plants. In the outlet they have at least 6-8 leaves. To get a new orchid, the top is cut off from the old one. It must have aerial roots. Places of cuts are sprinkled with any powdered biostimulant, disinfected. The top is transplanted into a separate container. Flowering from it can be expected in 2-3 years.

After dividing, the orchid “comes to its senses” for a rather long time

The unusual name of the flower given by Karl Blum - Phalaenopsis, similar to a moth, won the hearts of many generations of flower growers with its variety of colors, unpretentiousness in care, grace and beauty. These flowers, reminiscent of a butterfly in their subtlety and grace, figure prominently in the finest collections of houseplants. Therefore, having made his choice in favor of this beauty, the florist gets the opportunity to witness the flowering of the East Asian miracle.

In this article, we will discuss Phalaenopsis orchid care and reveal the secrets associated with phalaenopsis care at home. Let's talk about important details related to the characteristic features of this species. Let's touch on pests, methods of prevention and treatment.

Description and characteristics of Phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis is a genus of epiphytic plants in the Orchid family. A rosette of 3 or more leaves is formed around a high peduncle. They are wide, up to 5 centimeters, and flexible. Phalaenopsis flowers are very diverse. White, pink, yellow, burgundy, spotted, purple - this is not the whole list of phalaenopsis orchid colors.

The Phalaenopsis orchid blooms at least once a year, the flowering period is also very long - up to 6 months. It happens that this one blooms 3 times a year. Also, with good care, this orchid can continuously bloom for years: while one peduncle blooms, new young peduncles come out.

Photo gallery of flowers and leaves of various Phalaenopsis:

Care and care

As with other species, caring for Phalaenopsis orchids at home requires some very important steps, but at the same time, creating a positive atmosphere for growth and flowering is not a laborious practice.

With due attention to the following aspects, caring for phalaenopsis at home will bring only positive emotions.

Lighting and location

Phalaenopsis orchids require care when placed indoors, as choosing the right place is half the battle. Under natural conditions, these flowers are accustomed to a long daylight hours, so you should not take the phalaenopsis flower far from the windows, while direct sunlight can cause burns and then the plant will have to be rehabilitated. It is best to place this flower in a shaded place, or arrange diffused lighting. In winter, additional artificial lighting of the plant will not be superfluous.

East and west windows are well suited for placement. On the southern windows, the plant must be shaded, and on the northern windows, phalaenopsis may be reluctant to bloom due to lack of light.

With a seasonal reduction in the amount of light, it is necessary to add artificial lighting.

Temperature regime

Unlike the tropical conditions of Asia, where temperature ranges and seasons are regulated by nature, room conditions are the prerogative of man. The choice of the optimal temperature is approached carefully and takes into account the requirements of the plant.

The Phalaenopsis orchid gets along well at various temperatures, but the best solution for this flower is the range from 18 to 25 degrees. Aggressive drops will not benefit the flower and will not allow flowering to begin on time, but if the daily change of modes is carried out reasonably, by about 5-7 degrees, for 2 weeks, then your pet will not keep you waiting long.

Important! During the heating season, the thermometer readings grow, so that the flower is removed away from the batteries or fenced off from hot air.

Phalaenopsis orchids love good air circulation. This is necessary for the prevention of disease and confident growth. Since phalaenopsis does not have a dormant period, the growing season goes on all year round. But, in general, it may depend on the individual biorhythms of the flower.

The beauty and health of a flower are inextricably linked with the humidity of the air around. At home, Phalaenopsis requires 30-40% humidity. With a lack of moisture in the air, the leaves lose their healthy appearance and elasticity. An increase in humidity leads to rotting of the roots and to the death of the flower.

Important! Humidity can be measured with a device called a psychrometer (hygrometer). You need to place it in close proximity to the plant.

To increase humidity when it is lacking, an additional open source of water is placed next to the flower, which will saturate the air. With stagnant air, humidity indicators will not change, so good ventilation is the key to success.

Soil and nutrient media

Gardeners who want to create the most favorable conditions for their favorite plant should approach the choice or creation of a substrate with maximum attention and care.

Any flower shop sells ready-made soils for Phalaenopsis orchids. After the purchase, it is worth double-checking such a fee and, if flaws are found, it is being finalized.

So, the components of the substrate should be small in size and well crushed. The wider the set of components, the better. The ratio is made approximately equal. All ingredients must be well mixed. If the gardener wishes for his favorite phalaenopsis orchid, then it is advisable to choose the following ingredients:

• Pine bark;
• fern roots;
• A small amount of peat;
• Pumice;
• Expanded clay.

For the Phalaenopsis orchid, a smaller amount of moss is suitable than for other types, and pure bark or bark mixed with coconut chips can also be used. Pumice and expanded clay are used not only as fillers in the mixture, but also as a drainage system.

Watering

Root burn due to hard water

Watering plays an important role in the life of all plants. It is worth noting that the flower will lead to excellent indicators of health and flowering, and the inept will create conditions for diseases and pests.

There are several important watering details for Phalaenopsis orchids:

1. Before you start watering, you need to make sure it is necessary. The soil in the phalaenopsis container should be dry or almost dry.
2. It is necessary to visually assess the appearance of the roots. Roots that need watering are silvery in color.
3. During watering, avoid getting water into the inflorescences and rosettes of leaves, as this leads to rotting of the flower.

Phalaenopsis at home is demanding on the quality of water for irrigation. It should be as close as possible to natural feed waters. The following types are suitable:

• settled;
• boiled;
• Rain;
• Filtered.

The Phalaenopsis orchid does not tolerate hard water. Salts settle on the root system and harm it: the roots darken and burns appear. This, of course, is not fatal, but spoils the appearance of the plant. The best and most suitable ways to moisturize this type of orchid are:

Irrigation by immersion

The flower, together with the pot, is immersed in a container of water so that the entire substrate is wet. The immersion should be carried out slowly so as not to push the entire plant out of the pot. In summer, the dive time can be up to half an hour, in the cold season, no more than 5 minutes.

If several plants are successively immersed, then new water is needed for each subsequent plant. Thus, the transmission of diseases and is excluded.

Phalaenopsis Strait

An equally convenient way to water phalaenopsis is a strait. The substrate in the pot is spilled with water along the edge, this helps to wash off excess salt from the soil and roots, which will benefit the plant.

Also, maximum attention is paid to frequency, lighting, air temperature and humidity. These indicators must be in balance, since if one of them is displaced, the Phalaenopsis orchid will have to be saved.

Important! During the flowering period of phalaenopsis, watering does not need to be changed somehow.

Reproduction and transplant

Care and reproduction is a painstaking process that requires the concentration of knowledge and attention. Therefore, before you start, you should assess the risks and check if the plant is ready for it.

1. Propagation by cuttings. A stem is cut from 10 to 15 centimeters long, which must be healthy and lively, and also have as many aerial roots as possible. The cut is dried and treated with a fungicide, then the stem fragment is planted with fixation and waiting for adaptation. Experienced flower growers use a sterile tool to avoid infection of the flower. The separated stalk is placed on a moistened substrate. Moss is very good. For the first time, you can organize greenhouse conditions. As soon as the roots grow at least 5 centimeters long, the young plant can be strengthened on a permanent soil.
2. Reproduction by shoots. This method is also called "baby" division. Lateral shoots, that is, young plants that have already formed a new root and leaf system, are carefully separated and strengthened on a new substrate.

Important! After transplantation, care for phalaenopsis must be carefully and carefully so as not to damage the fragile young plant.

Despite the fact that the Phalaenopsis orchid at home is an unpretentious species, it should be transplanted only when there is a clear need:

Important! You can transplant Phalaenopsis during the flowering period, if necessary, but try to disturb the root system of the plant less. It is best to transplant during the period of active growth of the roots, then the plant adapts faster.

The transplant procedure itself is carried out carefully and very carefully. In several stages.

1. The flower is removed from the pot and cleaned of the old substrate.
2. Check the roots. If there are rotten or dried roots, then they are cut off.
3. Install in a pre-prepared container and add the mixture from above to the root neck, but not above it.

After transplanting, the plant does not need to be watered immediately. It is worth letting the micro-injuries on the roots heal.

Some time after transplantation, top dressing is carried out, which allows you to grow healthy flowers from young sprouts.

For productive care of the phalaenopsis orchid at home, use:

- 1 tablet per liter of water.
Complex fertilizers for growth and flowering.

Pests, diseases and important details

Indeed, treating a flower is much more difficult than caring for it. Common diseases in phalaenopsis are:

• Root atrophy. Occurs with improper watering and temperature conditions. It is treated with a change of care.
• Root rot. The reason for this may be improper watering, inappropriate humidity and air temperature. Transplantation, fungicide treatment, and change of conditions are necessary.
• Yellowing of leaves. The reason is the wrong mode of lighting, watering and temperature. It is treated by changing the care and transferring the flower to the shade.
• Mold. Occurs at high humidity and low air temperature. It is treated with special preparations, or similar preparations.

In this article, we talked about how to properly care for phalaenopsis, outlined the most important aspects of care, transplantation, treatment and cultivation of this type of orchid. It is impossible to know everything about phalaenopsis, but you should always strive for this.