How to make an excellent sliding table to save space. Do-it-yourself sliding oval kitchen table Do-it-yourself chipboard dining table

A poorly designed dining table is best remembered. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, on which there is not enough space. In order to help you design a table that will only be remembered for its attractive appearance, we will list the basic standards here.

TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the lid. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawstring is vertical legroom. Minimum distance- 60 cm.

KNEE SPACE. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal one is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawstring is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed up to the table. Minimum - 15 cm.

ELBOW SPACE. Side space on the table for each seated. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each seated. Less than 30 cm will be small, and more than 45 cm - too much.

CHAIR SPACE. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to push the chair back when getting up from the table. The architects say that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.

Table with king belt

When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table, as drawn here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original. In the simplest version, a table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (tabletop). The legs and the tsarg belt form a strong, but nevertheless open support structure. Structurally, many tables are drawbar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, desk. Scrolling through the book further, you will come across the original designs of various tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table, as a rule, can be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the individual dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with the tsarg belt, many of its variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered or carved. Even the kings can influence the look of the table.

Design options

For example, a round table with the same chiselled legs as base table, looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square tsarg belt with a round lid. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the style of Queen Anne, the massive sides make it a work table. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and providing more room for the occupant's hips.

Country style table

This table is called in different ways - a country-style table, a retro-style table, a bar table - and they represent it differently. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with turned legs and prongs. Prolegs, especially as strong as in the figure, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, prongs can increase the life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the XVII-XVIII centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do have massive legs - although they are badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with one middle prong instead of two longitudinal ones, so that it is more convenient to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is uncomplicated. The drawers and prolegs are spiked into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “into the tip”.

Design options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the form of turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the side-leg joints. At a country-style table, you can also change the legs - both in appearance,
and their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Table with drawer belt and drawer

The name "table with a king belt" refers rather than to style, but to construction. This type of table is the base for kitchen, library, desks etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two increases the functionality of the table, since the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, in others, the largest possible one is required. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box in the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the drawer. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Spike connections provide rigidity. A design with two - supra-jaw and under-jaw - bars is preferable, since the top bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design options

Installing a drawer in round table quite possible. But if the tsar's belt has a square or rectangular shape, then one must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued construction) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer side.

An alternative to a table with a leg at each corner is a table on one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low, flared legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and a drawer side gives unlimited legroom. However, although it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the feet of the seated person. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the area of support by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk tipping the table, leaning on the edge. Strength is critical to this design. B-pillar and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval top and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks tapering downwards, and the racks with the tabletop brackets are connected with double spikes into the eyes. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued onto a square-core lath and form a central support that expands upwards.

The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as small table magazine type with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models vary from the simplest utility to multi-rack. The structural advantage of multi-column supports is increased resistance to warping. Although the area of support may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the tabletop, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.

Put wide board on the goats - and you will get a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has improved significantly, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on a free-standing trestle. And when the trestle stops being free standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they have to be connected to each other, to the top, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the goat consists of a fairly wide stand, cut into the leg at the bottom, and at the top into the tabletop bracket. The wider the goats, the better table resists rocking from side to side. A long massive proleg is cut into the racks. The tabletop is fastened with screws to the goats, and the structure becomes one. Although there is enough legroom under the tabletop, do not forget about the leg so that, while sitting at the table, you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude 35-45 cm beyond the goats to provide enough space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common ways of attaching folding table parts are shown on the next page.

Design options

Think about the shape of the racks and legs of the goat - the easiest way to change appearance this table. Several examples are shown here. The original goats looked like saw goats, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. The Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still commonly found at picnic tables. Today, the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarians-shakers), who made many tables on the goats, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"

The familiar dining table can be extended with an additional cover board. Then an ordinary family table can be enlarged to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special skids. The skids can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each cloth of the table top must be at least 60 cm - the optimal place for one seated person.

Design options

The design of the extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and side. The shape of the drawer side and the tabletop has practically no effect on general design. If we are talking about the table with kings, then with sliding option work as usual. As the extension limits increase, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And do not forget about the importance of small details - for example, fastening the drawer side to the tabletop

Extendable table on one leg

A table on one support is the basic form of a table that has some advantages over a table with a drawstring belt. If you need a folding table, don't forget to consider this shape as well. It is quite possible to make such a table both sliding and folding, and a folding cover that will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is divided in two and its halves are connected by special sliding skids. Thus, these two cover sheets can be moved apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with the support is the key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a respective lid web. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.

Design options

The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say 30–40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then extendable table can be done on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.

When choosing one of the types of folding tables one of the most interesting designs is a drawer system. It is simple to manufacture and use. There is nothing out of the ordinary about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawstrings and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawstring belt, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, are stacked on top of the drawer legs assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the sides. The existing central board separating the side sections is fixed with screws on the sides. The table top is laid on top of the central board and side sections, but is not fixed tightly. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops to prevent the section from being extended too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt a little at first, but when fully unfolded, it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you don't have to start searching for them in the closets and storerooms when you need to lay out the table before the arrival of guests. You simply slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.

Design options

The drawer system can be combined with any type of table support provided that the drawer side is available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-leg table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have retractable sections to increase the number seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-rectilinear shapes. When folded, the side section retracts under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather odd when folded. For example, a semi-circular side section under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the sides.

Two-leg table with sliding
sections

A table with a sliding folding lid (table top) is relatively rare. Despite the low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (cover). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section leans back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the tsarg should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each skid has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during high humidity combs can stick in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the base, which creates enough space under the table for those seated. The U-shape of the legs will provide enough legroom for those sitting at the ends of the table.

Design options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should approach the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look odd if the tabletop has a small overhang. good options such applications include side table (as base), side table (shown here) and other tables and tables special purpose. These tables, when folded, can be placed close to the wall. Folding covers are usually used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. However sliding mechanism fits here too.

A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically the “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common sight and has been present throughout American history. In any furniture style, from the style of the times of William and Mary to the modern one, you will come across a table with a folding board. This table has folding boards as part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered to a vertical position, saving room space. There are many ways to keep the flaps in the raised position. The example shown here uses pull-out holders - you lift the board and pull out the support brackets from under it (much like a drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, with swivel legs on a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to think about for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by extendable or swivel/articulated arms. Make relatively narrow folding boards - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections - see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example was received in the 20th century interesting name, which applies to a relatively long utility table with hinged lids. This name, which can be translated as "suffering", creates in consciousness a picture of a decomposed big table filled with food for hungry seasonal farm workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, people who sat at such a table in the year 1840 or 1880 probably called it a folding table or folding table.

Design options

While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-down table can come in almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (tabletop) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.

Table-book - Russian name table with swivel frame supports, which are hinged to the assembly of the side-leg-prong. The support post is connected to the turntable by the upper and lower crossbars. The whole support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel bearing became the forerunner of the swivel leg. It has many structural elements reflecting the state of carpentry in the 16th century when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were generally very narrow and save space. If they turn towards each other, then with the folding boards lowered, the support legs of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support legs will sit side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern.

Design options

A significant advantage of the book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A solid support under the flap makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge tabletop

This table can rightly be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of the drawer side, legs and proleg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer side. The result is a lighter appearance. Rather, the size, rather than the knot of the swivel leg, is characteristic of this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used both for breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs for better support for flip boards. The swivel - actually a wooden hinge - makes the swivel leg workable. A sleeker version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.

Design options

The design of a swivel leg for a table with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a table in the style of Queen Anne as the "basic" table, the swivel leg was used in the tables different styles. The profile of the stem will typically be the style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel-leg tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite tables were made with legs tapering downwards, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.

Folded out folding boards transform
rectangular table to square

The advantage of a table with a frame swivel base over a table with a swivel leg is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with extendable legs also has this advantage over a table with swivel legs, but it also has one advantage over a table with frame swivel legs. Like a table with swivel legs, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a holder of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are extended through cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the flip board and still have four legs under the fixed table top. This structure can hold very wide folding boards.

Design options

Here are two very different tables with retractable legs, each of which has excellent stability due to the extra leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded up against the wall, the extra leg is not conspicuous. By unfolding the game table and extending the extra leg, you will get a support under each corner of the tabletop. Ideally. Extendable legs also make a great addition to a long table with folding boards. If you make two retractable legs for each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.

The table-chair owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function - well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and elegant in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with spike-in-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs make the chair more stable, and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The tabletop is fastened with a dovetail tie-in.

Making a kitchen table with your own hands is not only a great way to save money, but also an opportunity to realize the most original ideas. In this case, it is possible to obtain a product that will suit the individual characteristics of the room in which it will be installed. About how to make kitchen table do-it-yourself wood, consider further.

Do-it-yourself kitchen desktop: manufacturing technology

Before starting work on the kitchen table, you should first of all calculate its size and decide on the shape. When carrying out this process, it is necessary to take into account the constant number of people who will sit at the table, as well as the dimensions of the room in which it will be installed. In case there are guests in the house, we recommend adding a few empty seats to the constant number of people.

If the number of people at the table is no more than ten, then you can limit yourself to the usual standard table, round or rectangular. If necessary, in larger table, we recommend stopping at its swing version.

When calculating the size of the table, use the following guidelines:

the optimal working surface, providing the convenience of staying at the table for one person, is sixty centimeters;
consider the place of installation of the table, whether some part of it will be adjacent to the wall;
decide on the presence or absence of drawers and additional accessories in the table.

After determining the size and location of the table, pay attention to its design as well. The optimal table width is from eighty to one hundred centimeters. When making a table that is smaller in width, there will be difficulties with serving it. Please note that an oval or round table is more difficult to make than a rectangular one. To determine its length, the radius of the table is multiplied by pi.

If the table will have a round or oval shape, then its installation near the wall will be impossible, it should be in the center of the room. If you install the long side of the table next to the wall, then its capacity will be lost by almost half. Installing the table next to the stove is not possible, as it will quickly become dirty. It is also not recommended to place the table near the air conditioner.

Oval tables are quite popular, which have the following advantages:

this table has an attractive appearance;
there are no corners in it that you can get hurt.

However, such a table is inappropriate for a large number of people, since it is less spacious than a rectangular one. To combine practicality and comfort, we recommend staying at rectangular shape table with slightly rounded corners.

This is followed by the process of preparing drawings and tools for work. The drawing shows the dimensions of each of the details of the table. You should also decide on how the parts are connected to each other. Among the main elements of the table, we note:

cover;
legs;
rails with which the cover is fixed;
holders;
corner clamps;
longitudinal bars.

For construction standard table rectangular shape will require the presence of:

countertops;
cross-purpose jumpers;
jumpers of longitudinal type;
the legs that hold the table.

For the manufacture of countertops, you will need wooden planks. Before that, you should choose a way to fix the table top on the legs. Also, in the process of work, you will need to have a certain carpentry tools, such as a hacksaw, jigsaw, ruler and tape measure, files, grinder, sandpaper, electric drill, etc.

After preparing all the tools and materials, follow the instructions below for making a kitchen table with your own hands:

1. When starting to manufacture a countertop, you should decide on its option - stationary or sliding. In the first case, it will be easier to build a countertop.

2. Please note that the countertop must be practical, it must be resistant to grease, stains, moisture and odor absorption. Also, the countertop should be smooth.

3. For the manufacture of countertops, wood is most often used, although it is possible to combine it with glass, natural stone, ceramics. A do-it-yourself kitchen table made of chipboard is another budget and quite practical option. For finishing chipboard, a laminated coating or plastic is used. This material is easy to process and inexpensive. A properly processed chipboard countertop will serve its owners for decades.

4. In order to make a high-quality chipboard countertop, use the following recommendations:

laminated film or plastic coating should be rounded at the ends of the countertop;
use silicone sealant to process each end;
it is preferable to round the ends one hundred and eighty degrees.

However, the ingress of moisture on such a countertop leads to swelling of the material and its deterioration. Qualitatively processed countertop made of chipboard is resistant to aggressive chemicals and mechanical stress.

5. The most ideal option for making countertops is natural wood. However, such a countertop is unstable to moisture, dirt and scratches. To protect the wood from these influences, the material is varnished, painted or waxed.

DIY kitchen table photo:

In relation to the size of the kitchen table, the number of legs that will hold it is determined. Most often, for a medium-sized table, four legs are required. For the manufacture of legs, wood is most often used, which is highly resistant to mechanical damage and the load from the countertop.

The complexity of working on table legs is determined by their shape. It is possible to purchase ready-made wooden or steel legs. Some small tables have one leg that keeps them upright. The number of legs directly determines the weight of the structure and the shape of the table.

To install one leg on the tabletop, you will need to provide it with a cross-shaped strapping. Two legs installed on the table should be located on the sides. Most often, the shape of such a table is oval or rectangular. However, such a table has certain advantages. First of all, this is the fact that the legs do not interfere with any of the people sitting at the table. These legs have a lower extension to improve the support area. A special jumper is used to connect the legs.

Pretty simple to design and easy to manufacture table with four legs. Among the advantages of such a table, we note its strength and mechanical stability. However, in the process of designing such a table, due attention should be paid to the installation location of the legs and their cross section.

Also, you should take care of the aesthetic appeal of the legs, which should harmonize well with the tabletop.

Features of making a sliding kitchen table with your own hands

We offer you to familiarize yourself with the option of making a folding kitchen table with your own hands. This version of the table will have the shape of a rectangle. Main components this table- four legs and six parts of the box.

For the construction of the sidewalls and countertops, wood or chipboard is used, and timber is used for the legs. Initially, bar tsargs are made, legs will be fixed on them. Fixing the removable part of the tabletop will be carried out using two slats. In order to build a table yourself, you will need:

wood screws;
furniture corners;
laminated film or plastic for chipboard finishing;
wooden dowels.

legs;
two removable parts;
four side parts;
two side and end tsargs;
two planks holding the tabletop.

Please note that it is recommended to use specialized equipment for cutting wood into parts. Thus, it will be possible to achieve the desired accuracy in size. Each workpiece must be well cleaned and processed special formulations and varnish.

In order to make a kitchen table with your own hands, follow these steps:

1. Initially, the side and longitudinal drawers are fixed on the outside of the table. Further, with the help of self-tapping screws, corners are installed on the outer and inner sides. The fixing of the corners on the surface of the longitudinal sides is carried out using a horizontal bar.

2. Guide rails are installed on the inside of the drawer side. Next, dowels are installed, with the help of which the prefabricated and collapsible connection of the parts to each other is carried out. Please note that the distance between the tabletop and the dowel is no more than ten centimeters. Only in this case it will be possible to obtain a high-quality and durable construction.

4. After that, the U-shaped parts are assembled. For their manufacture, laminated chipboard material is used.

5. Take care to fix the narrow rails that allow you to move the box over the plywood collet.

6. Using self-tapping screws and corners, connect all sections of the non-removable table top. Each of the parts must be identical for their perfect match with each other. A removable part of the tabletop is installed in the inner part of the table.

How to make a folding table yourself

In the presence of a compact kitchen or dining room, the most good decision will be the manufacture of a folding table. The folded table will be a kind of decorative frame, and the unfolded one will serve as a place for eating or cooking.

In the process of work, you will need to have:

MDF boards with optimal thickness;
joinery vise and glue;
electric drill and screwdriver;
paintwork materials that will cover the finished product;
screwdrivers;
furnishing elements.

To make a table, follow these steps:

1. Initially prepare table drawings that will specifically indicate the dimensions of all parts.

2. Design a frame, make holes in it for fixing other elements of the table.

3. Fix the frame to the tabletop with glue and self-tapping screws. To mask the heads of self-tapping screws, use a special acrylic-based putty.

4. After the putty has dried, use sandpaper to sand the table.

5. Use painter's tape to tape the ends. And for painting the surface, you should use acrylic-based paint.

7. Latches will be used to hold the table assembled, they must be fixed in such a way as not to spoil the appearance of the structure.

Do-it-yourself kitchen table restoration

In order to save on the purchase of a new table for the kitchen, it is enough to simply restore the old one. Initially, care should be taken to prepare the product, which must be cleaned of dirt, dust and grease.

To clean the furniture, you can use a special abrasive chemistry that will remove mold and fungus from wooden products. If there are cracks or deformations on the surface of the table, sandpaper is used to process them. If there is a polishing layer on the table, care should be taken to remove it. For this, a special polishing solution is used.

There are several ways in which you can restore the countertop:

installation of ceramic tiles;
coating the countertop with paint and varnish solutions;
decoupage;
use of self-adhesive film;
wallpaper.

Which of the above methods of table restoration to choose depends on the individual characteristics of the room and the material possibilities of restoration. The simplest and easiest to perform is painting the table. To do this, you can use special stencils and paints of different colors that will help make the table original and unique.

DIY kitchen table video:

Regardless of the size of the kitchen, be it spacious kitchen in a new building country house or a small one in a small family, the most important subject interior is a kitchen table. For the production of tables today are used different Construction Materials e.g. glass, metal, stone, plastic, wood. But of all these materials, wood is still used more often. If you want to save money, then the kitchen table can be made independently. In this scenario, you can save up to 70% of the cost of the table. But first you should work hard and take into account a large number of factors that we will consider together with you in this article.

Making important measurements and calculations

Before starting work on the manufacture of the kitchen table, it is important to make some calculations. Usually such tables are calculated for a specific number of people. As a rule, this number ranges from three to nine. But it is best to take into account a couple of extra places in the calculations, in case guests arrive. If you are hospitable hosts, then most likely you will need a large table that can accommodate up to fifteen people.

Important calculations:

The working length for one person should be 60 cm. This figure is multiplied by the number of people. The resulting figure will be the perimeter of the future table.
How exactly the table will be installed: in the middle of the kitchen, near the wall. In the first version, the table will be able to accommodate more guests.
Will the table have drawers or other accessories.

Decide on the size and location. The optimal table width is 80-110 cm. If a narrower table is planned, then you will have difficulty serving. In the case of choosing an oval table shape, it is necessary to calculate the circumference. To do this, multiply the square of the radius by the number Pi (3.14).

Round or oval kitchen tables without fail located only in the center of the kitchen.

Do not place the table near the stove.
You can not put a table under the air conditioner.

It is equally important to decide on the shape of the table. Surface geometry can drastically change the look of an entire space. It directly depends on the shape whether it will be convenient to eat or not. Most of all, a rectangular shape with right angles is in demand. These countertops are great for square or rectangular kitchens. At the same time, it can be placed near the wall or in the center of the room.

Oval-shaped tables are also very popular. There are several valid reasons:

The oval table has an attractive appearance.
There is no need to go around corners. This is especially convenient when there are small children in the house.
An oval table is best suited for a formal meal.

There are a lot of advantages in favor of an oval shaped kitchen table. But if available big family it yields to a rectangular shape. There are also round shapes, but with this option it will be inconvenient to take certain dishes. As for the oval table top, the ideal diameter is 140 cm.

So, when choosing the shape of the table, start mainly from your own taste. Moreover, remember that for a kitchen of 8 m 2 or less oval table will be impractical, as it will require a lot of free space.

We prepare drawings and tools

If you have decided on the size and shape of the kitchen table, then you can proceed to the next step - drawing up a drawing. It should display the required dimensions of the surface, legs and other elements. You should consider the method of fastening certain nodes. Consider, for example, a kitchen table that will have the following dimensions: 120x60x75.

Although such a table will be small, you can easily understand the principle of making such furniture using its example. In your drawing, you can resize the table according to your needs.

You will need:

Tabletop 1.2 × 0.6 m - 1 piece.
Cross jumpers 40 × 2.5 cm - 2 pieces.
Longitudinal jumpers 100 × 2.5 cm - 2 pieces.
Table legs 70 cm high - 4 pieces.

To build a countertop, you need to prepare boards of the appropriate size. Before starting work, you will need to consider the method of attaching important nodes.

First of all, you need to collect all essential tool and materials:

plane,
hacksaw,
electric jigsaw,
screwdriver,
sandpaper,
ruler or tape measure
square,
pencil,
circular saw,
milling machine,
file,
clamps,
paint brush,
wood glue,
polyurethane varnish: matt or glossy,
solvent.

When everything is ready, you can get to work.

Assembly Guide: Countertop Requirements

As for the countertop, it is important to decide whether it will be sliding or not. For example, when assembled, the table can be used for cooking, and in a sliding state as a means for eating.

The countertop should not absorb odors and grease. Also consider practicality.

A good countertop should not absorb moisture, withstand strong impacts. The surface of the table should not be afraid of steam, condensate and high temperature. All these requirements are met by a countertop made of natural and artificial stone or covered with ceramic tiles. But it should be noted that such a table will look only in the interior of modern style.

One of the most common types of countertops is chipboard, laminated with film or covered with plastic. By price chipboard available to many. Moreover, such material is the easiest to work with. Some may deny that chipboard countertops are practical. This is partly true, but with proper processing, it will last more than one year. Here are some recommendations and tips for working with chipboard countertops:

The film or plastic should be rounded at the ends of the chipboard.
Each 90° rounded end is treated with silicone.
However, in this position, the end is vulnerable to moisture ingress, so it is better to wrap the end 180 °.

You should be objective and mention the disadvantages of such a countertop. If the chipboard swells, then there is no way to fix this problem. As a result, you have to do new table Or at least a tabletop. But, on the other hand, such a surface is resistant to aggressive detergents and to mechanical influences.

Of course, if we talk about the most ideal and ecologically pure version, then the tree is rightfully in the first place. But in the care of such a surface is more capricious. Do not allow moisture to penetrate into the wood, allow scratches and other damage. Microbes can settle and multiply inside them, which adversely affect mechanical strength wood. Therefore, from time to time, wood countertops must be varnished, cleaned, and opened with a layer of wax.

leg requirements

The number of legs will vary depending on the shape and size of the table. For example, if you are making a table from chipboard, then 4 legs will be enough, which are attached to the corners of the tabletop. If you make strong wooden legs, then this design will be durable and strong.

Legs can be made by hand. To do this, you can purchase a ready-made sketch. The complexity of this work will depend entirely on the shape of the legs. If you think that this is beyond your power, then purchase ready-made metal legs or choose carved wooden ones. Everything will depend on your financial capabilities.

The table can be on one leg. As mentioned above, this will depend directly on the weight, shape and configuration of the countertop and the table as a whole.

The table, which has one massive leg, looks impressive and beautiful from the side. For its installation, a high-quality cruciform strapping is performed.

Two massive legs are located at a certain distance from each other. In most cases, a table with two legs is rectangular or oval. The advantage of such structures is that the legs will not interfere with any of the sitting people. As for the design of such legs, they expand at the bottom to increase the area of \u200b\u200bsupport. Between themselves, they are connected by a jumper board.

But also regular tables on four legs are simple in design and do not need precise and complex calculations. This table is stable and durable. The most important thing here is to choose the right size of the legs and mount them on correct distance. At the same time, tables on four legs can be very different in shape: oval, round, square, rectangular.

So, regardless of the number of legs chosen in your design, their aesthetics always remain the most important. The aesthetic appeal of the table legs is even more important than the beauty of the countertop. After all, the tabletop is always covered with a tablecloth or oilcloth, and the legs are always visible.

We build a folding table

One of the simple shapes of the kitchen table is rectangular. This design consists of four legs and six sidewalls of the box. The table top and sidewalls can be made from 18 mm chipboard, and the legs from a 40 × 40 mm bar. First you need to make plywood drawers, 2 cm thick (table legs will be attached to them), as well as two horizontal strips. It is on them that the removable part of the table will be placed. In our case, for the manufacture you will need to purchase the following material:

Self-tapping screws 4×16.
Self-tapping screws 4×50.
Furniture corners 30×30.
Laminated edges in the color of chipboard.
Wooden dowels 8×40.

To make the table move apart, you can use standard guides. They provide smooth movement of the countertop. So, everything is pre-made necessary details the following sizes:

Leg 710 mm.
Two fixed parts 450×700 mm.
Removable part 400×700 mm.
For the box of the fixed part, there are four sidewalls 420 × 120 mm.
For the box for fixed parts, two end 600 × 120 mm.
From plywood, two side drawers 830 × 120 mm.
From plywood, two end sides 498 × 120 mm.
To accommodate a removable tabletop, two strips 498 × 120 mm.

With such blanks, you get a sliding table in size:

Extended 1300×700 mm.
Assembled 900×700 mm.

It is best to cut all the workpieces on special equipment. This is important in order to accurately withstand all dimensions. All blanks made of plywood and wood should be carefully cleaned and varnished in two layers.

So, step by step instructions:

First of all, the side and longitudinal sides are fixed with outside legs flush with the ends. After that, with the help of self-tapping screws 4 × 50 mm, corners are attached from the outside and from the inside 4 × 16 mm. The corners are attached to the longitudinal tsargs through horizontal slats.
Further, a wide guide is fixed on the inside of the side tsarga.
Under the dowels, you will need to drill two holes on the inner ends of the countertop. They are attached for collapsible connection, that is, one half will be free, and the second will be attached to the glue. From the dowel to the edge of the countertop, the distance should be equal, but not exceed 10 cm.
Two dowels are mounted on a removable table top. To do this, two holes are drilled on the reverse side.
At the next stage, it's time to assemble the U-shaped parts of the box from chipboard. In this case, the end elements 600 × 120 should be located between the sidewalls 420 × 120 mm.
Now screw on the narrow guides. This is necessary so that the chipboard box moves on average 2 mm higher than the plywood collet.
After that, the guides snap into place and are checked for movement along the drawer.
Attach the non-removable part of the tabletop using corners and 4x16mm self-tapping screws. Both parts must match perfectly. Therefore, just before attaching them, slide both parts and check their alignment. Then carefully push the drawers apart and secure the countertops.
On the shelf inside the table, place the removable part of the table top.

Folding table - an original solution for a small kitchen!

If your kitchen has a miniature size, then choosing the right shape for the kitchen table can be difficult. However, there is always a way out. For example, you can build a homemade folding table. When folded, it will serve as a decorative frame, and when unfolded, it will serve as a full-fledged dining table. Although in each case the size of such a table will be different, we will take our sizes as a basis. This will allow you to visualize what exactly your drawing will look like.

For work you need:

MDF board 180 mm thick - 5 pieces,
150×90 cm,
130 × 10 cm - 2 pieces,
90×20 cm,
70×20 cm,
holdfast,
wood glue,
acrylic putty,
electric drill,
drill for wood 3 mm and for metal 8-10 mm,
sandpaper,
acrylic paint for wood
roller,
masking tape,
screws 3.5×30 and 3.5×16 mm,
loops,
screwdriver,
two furniture bolts.

The whole process of work will not take you much time if you strictly follow the step-by-step instructions below.

Based on the set of material, the table will be made of MDF. Make drawings first.
The frame is built first. To do this, four smaller elements are attached to the largest board from below, using a carpentry vise. Every 250 mm, holes are drilled in the frame with a Ø3 mm drill, up to 3 cm deep.
After that, a hole is drilled with a metal drill Ø8-10 mm to a depth of 3 mm. In this way, it will be possible to deepen the heads of the twisted screws.
Further, carpentry glue is applied to the lower surface of the four frame elements, and after that, each element is applied in its place. Each of them must be well pressed with a carpenter's vice.
Mounting the frame on glue is not enough, so you should additionally fix it on screws.
At the same time, disguise the screw heads so that they do not spoil general view. To do this, you will need acrylic putty.
When the putty has dried, you can sand sandpaper surface of the decorative frame.
The ends of the countertops should be glued with masking tape.
Paint the surface of the frame acrylic paint using a roller, and paint over the corners and edges with a brush.
Then screw the hinges along the short edge of the table top. From the edge must be at least 150 mm. Mark holes on the wall and drill for the dowel. Thus, the hinges will be screwed to the wall.
When the table is in an upright position, it will be held on top with latches. They should be fixed in such a way that they are not conspicuous, for example, at the edges of wall shelves.

Table from postforming table top in 5 stages

Such a table can be completed in the shortest possible time. To do this, you will need to first collect all necessary material and tool. You will need:

pencil,
postforming tabletop,
jigsaw,
jigsaw file,
Sander,
edging,
cutter,
silicone sealant,
rubber mallet,
sharp knife,
clamps,
metal legs with holder
hex key.

All work can be done in 5 successive stages.

Stage 1

Mark the front side of the table top with a pencil. The markup will match your drawing. Each rounding is performed with a radius of at least 60 mm. This will prevent the edge from discoloring at sharp bends.

Stage 2

Now you need to give the appropriate shape to the countertop. To do this, use a jigsaw. When cutting, it is recommended to leave a small backlog of 2-3 mm. Pay attention to the direction of the jigsaw blade. It must have a reverse direction of the teeth. This will avoid chips on the plastic coating. Although partially they can be hidden by piping. To accurately bring the dimensions and shape of the countertop, you need to work on the ends grinder tape type.

Stage 3

In the third step, it's time to mill the groove. Milling is always performed strictly in the center of the end face. And this is even regardless of whether the edging will exactly match the thickness of the table top or will be large. If you do not have a cutter with the exact dimensions of the edge groove, then you can go several times with a cutter that has a lower tooth height.

Stage 4

When the groove is ready, you can start stuffing the edging. To do this, the end face is pre-coated silicone sealant. This will prevent water intrusion. Sealant is applied to the top edge of the edge. The edging itself is stuffed rubber mallet. The joint should be formed in the most inconspicuous place. When the stuffing is completed, it is important to make an exact docking of the piping. Here you can't do without sharp knife. After that, you will need to remove the excess sealant around the entire perimeter of the countertop, which was formed when the edging was driven in.

When fixing countertops using clamps, it is important to use special gaskets. They are installed on the protruding edges of the edge and prevent their damage.

Stage 5

At the final stage, the legs are fixed. To do this, you should attach the molded holders to the underside of the tabletop. So that they are at the same distance, mark up with a pencil. From the edge of the leg should be at a distance of up to 10 cm. This holder is fixed with self-tapping screws 2.5 cm long with countersunk head. Now it remains to make the final touch: fix the legs in the holder with a hex wrench. The dining table for the kitchen is ready!

As you can see, the table from the postforming tabletop is very simple and, most importantly, available for home-made manufacturing at home. To do this, you need to have basic carpentry tools. But there are also dangers to be aware of here. If handled carelessly, there is a risk of breaking the holder, which is made of fragile material. But if you carefully operate such a table, it will last for many years.

The choice is yours

We have considered with you several options for how to make a kitchen table. There are other technologies for its manufacture. In most cases, everything will depend only on your financial capabilities and ingenuity.

Video

This video shows an example of making a rectangular kitchen table with rounded corners. Balusters are skillfully used as legs:

WITH wooden countertop with minimal financial outlay.

The house has been rebuilt and renovations are in progress. The kitchen was also ready at that time. The question was about the kitchen table. Looked in stores wooden tables. Normal tables with a wooden top (not chipboard) cost from 3,000 rubles. After looking at the whole thing, I decided to make a table with my own hands.

To make the table I bought:

type-setting wooden furniture board 60cm wide and 3m long (there was no less),
wooden beam 4 x 4 cm,
4 table legs. (they are sold in furniture fittings stores),
screw nuts for fastening the legs.

Everything about everything took 1500 rubles.

The dimensions of our future table are 60 cm by 160 cm (half furniture board), based on the size of the kitchen), so the cost of the table was set a little over 1000 rubles.

Having cut the tabletop to the size of the table, I set about sawing the ends of the timber at 45 degrees.

The beam is necessary to stiffen the countertop. We start it around the perimeter of the table from the bottom side. Without a bar, the tabletop will sag.

We apply the blanks of the bars to the countertop and check whether everything fits together without gaps.

We fasten the beam to the countertop with screws.

On the reverse side of the tabletop we mark the places for attaching the legs and holes.

We drill holes in the countertop for the screws. Drill diameter - 10 mm. Screw nut diameter - 12 mm.
To facilitate the screwing of the nut, you can set the stroke with a tap to 12mm. The pitch of the tap is equal to the pitch of the thread on the screw nut.

We do all this with four legs.

The table is ready and stands on legs. Let's start sanding and varnishing it.

I cleaned the table with sandpaper, first 80, then finer - 150. I made the edges of the table and bars a little rounded. Somewhere irregularities moonlighted.

After careful polishing, I proceeded to varnish the table.

We had a matte varnish (we took it earlier to cover the floor). After applying the first layer, let the varnish dry. After drying, the pile rises. Again we pass with fine sandpaper and cover with a second layer of varnish.

If necessary, after the second layer, we also sand it with sandpaper and varnish the table, as I did.

The table is ready!

Instead of metal legs, you can also use a square beam or ready-made balusters, which are sold ready-made.

Probably when I make another table, I will use balusters. They are different size. It is desirable to use balusters with a diameter of more than 70 mm. They are also fastened with screws.

To solve the problems of limited free space and increase its functionality in small apartment, many owners make a folding table with their own hands. By installing it in the kitchen, you can free up space by using it as a dining table.

This is a piece of furniture in the form of a board attached to the wall. Hosted in small room, it functions as a table. It can be a great help if used correctly.

Reclining table and bench

The folding table is distinguished by its functionality and ergonomics, harmoniously fits into the space of any room. It can significantly save the working area.

Advantages and disadvantages of the product

The design has several advantages:

compactness
Functionality
Stylish design
Easy to install

One of the disadvantages of folding tables is its small size. If you make it bigger, then the result will be a heavy and bulky design. The operation of such a table will be more difficult. It will be difficult to fold.

Table details

To build a folding table, you need to prepare the following details:

countertop
bottom and top shelf
sides and partitions
back

As accessories, it is necessary to prepare self-tapping screws, hinges, confirmants and anchors.

In the process of work, you can use the following tools:

electric jigsaw (hacksaw or regular jigsaw)
manual milling machine
grinder
screwdriver
drill and drill set

They also use a ruler, tape measure, pencil, level and construction square.

Prepare the details and the right tools, you can get to work.

Drawing preparation

When constructing a folding table with fastening to the wall with your own hands, the drawings of the details and the product itself are made first of all.