Repairs Design Furniture

We make compost pits correctly. Three versions. Secrets of clean fertilizers. How to make and fill the compost auction from what to make a compost yam in the country

Vintage depends on the quality of the soil. This is known to all gardeners. But not always the garden land is rich in useful substances. Therefore, it is necessary to fertilize it additionally. You can use ready-made compositions or organic fertilizers. But the best option will be the construction of a compost pit. Thanks to her, there will be a go-off grass and food waste. And the fertilizer from it will turn out nothing worse than the store compost. It's small - choose a comfortable design and appreciate it.

Choosing a place for compost pits

Before you begin to build, it is necessary to determine the place for the compost heap. This will help compliance with some rules:

  1. 1. The compost pit needs to be located at a distance of at least 30 meters from wells, wells and other reservoirs.
  2. 2. Observe the distance from residential buildings. The unpleasant smell from the compost should not deliver the inconvenience of the neighbors by the country, nor to you.
  3. 3. If the site has a slope, then the pit is better at the lower level.
  4. 4. In the sun, waste decomposes more slowly. It is better to choose a place in the shade.

The pit must be an accessible passage to pass or drive on a garden wheelbarrow.

General requirements of the device

The compost box must function as necessary. Microorganisms and bacteria that recycle plant waste must actively multiply in it. To do this, create comfortable conditions. Just dig a hole or make a box not enough. On the normal life of microorganisms, the following factors affect:

  1. 1. Free oxygen access. Thanks to him, waste will not rot, highlighting an unpleasant smell, but to decompose under the influence of bacteria and earthworms.
  2. 2. High humidity rather high.
  3. 3. A certain temperature is + 60-70 degrees.

In the compost pit it is possible to put: residues of raw or spoiled vegetables, fruits, berries, as well as various grains, grass, hay, ash, foliage, cheeu, bark, branches, plant roots, sawdust, crushed paper, manure of herbal animals.

It is impossible in any way: bones, potato and tomato tops, treated with seeds, seeds of weeds, synthetic waste, BOTS infected plants.

If all the conditions are observed, then compost will be correct and high-quality.

You can allocate basic requirements for the construction of the pit:

  • for free access of oxygen, the compost container must be higher than the soil level;
  • if the pit is located in the soil, it is not necessary to dug over the distance more than half a meter;
  • one of the walls of the container is better to make removable or in the form of a door to make it convenient to get ready-made compost;
  • the box size should be chosen based on the amount of fertilizer required. The optimal size is 1 to 2 meters. If the plot is large and requires a lot of compost, it is better to make several containers with dimensions of 80 per 100 cm;
  • the height of the container should be such that the person can comfortably loosen the contents. The optimal height is no more than 1 meter;
  • do not close the bottom. It should be earthen for free movement of worms and maintain humidity.

Based on the basic requirements, you can start searching for a suitable design of the compost hole.

Production options

You can make a compost pit with your own hands in several ways. They differ in size, design device and materials.

Outflowed compost yama

One of the fastest and most simple ways to equip a compost pit is to divert the groove in the ground. But this option will suit more as temporary, since the quality of raw materials will be low.

Due to poor access of oxygen, waste will not be detected in such a compost, but rot. To obtain a normal humus, they must often loose and mix. Otherwise, the smell of rotting waste attracts a lot of flies.

The recess for the pit must be 40-60 cm. The size of the parties can be made any, but up to 70 cm. At large sizes of the soil will begin to crumble.

If you need a big pit, then its walls need to strengthen. To do this, boards or slate are suitable.

Surface design

No less simple, fast and low-cost way - to add vegetable waste in the form of a small stack. True, there are significant disadvantages. For example, it will be very uncomfortable to loosen it. And get ready-made humus from below is also problematic.

If there is no other option, then before laying out waste, you need to lay a layer of the soil branches for better air circulation. The place is desirable to choose in the shade. From above, stack to cover with an opaque material, for example, a rubberoid. Surface compost will be ready after 1.5-2 years.

With a large number of waste, you can organize several coup. And so far one greater, in the second folding waste. You can arrange a compost bunch on a garden that rests. And the next year to plant zucchini or cucumbers on it.

From the board

Common option for making a compost - box. It may consist of 1, 2 or 3 sections. Experienced gardeners recommend a box with three sections in Finnish technology. It is convenient because the finished compost is kept in one compartment, in the second it matures, and the third waste is laid.

It can also be made stationary or mobile. For a rolling version, it is enough to make a bottom with small click and attach the wheels.The height of the box should be no more than 1 meter in height. For sections, the optimal width of the parties is 0.5-0.7 meters. With such sizes, it is convenient to lay and loose waste, as well as get ready-made compost. The plaques for the construction of the composter should be treated with a protective composition, which will protect them from moisture and insects.

In order to make a box for three sections you need:

  • insert 8 processed bars to the ground;
  • at a distance of 0.5-1 cm attach boards-partitions;
  • the bottom can be made of boards or put large branches.

If you wish, you can add each compartment with the doors over. For the construction of the walls will be nice to use pallets.

Computer basket

This option can be made even inexperienced gardens. Special tools and special efforts for the manufacture of a basket is not required. Necessary materials:

  • a welded metal grid with cells of 50x50 or 40x40 mm, 3 m long, from 70 to 100 cm wide (this is the future height of the basket);
  • black geotextile or polyethylene film 3.5 meter long and 75-105 cm width;
  • clips large stationery - 10 pcs.;
  • wire knitting or plastic clamps for fastening a metal mesh.

From the tools to prepare scissors for metal and ordinary, roulette and pliers.

Grid Expand, straighten and measure the length of 3 meters. Collapse in the cylinder and connect ends with an overlap approximately 20 cm. Wired or clamps fix the grid from both edges.

Measure and cut off the desired film size or geotextile. Collapse it with a roll and set inside the basket. Well distribute material on the walls. Top edge to complete outward and secure stationery clamps. Basket for compost ready. It can be placed in the old pelvis, and it will become mobile.

When filling the basket, the first layer needs to put branches. Vegetable and nutritional waste is suspended with a small amount of soil. After that, shed the contents with water, cover top with a film on top and leave for ripening.

From slate

A sufficiently affordable and easy way to make a compost yam from slate. Especially if there are unnecessary sheets of roofing material. And even if they are with damage, the compost will benefit. Through the cracks will be air, which will have a favorable on Gumus. And Slate will perform the role of a waste limiter so that they do not sprawl into a large area.

To build a box you need to do the following:

  1. 1. Note the drawing of the future composter. If you plan to make a box into two sections, then their size should be 0.8 per meter or 1 per meter. The height of the three walls is optimal - 70-100 cm, and the front - 30-50 cm for a more convenient layout laying and removing the content.
  2. 2. Select a place to locate the pit and remove the top layer of the soil by 20 cm. So earthworms and moisture will fall into compost freely.
  3. 3. To fix the slate to install wooden or metal columns around the perimeter.
  4. 4. Put slate sheets in such a way that 20-25 cm gap remains between the lower edge and the soil. This will allow the best oxygen flow.

Concrete design

More expensive and time-consuming design - from concrete. If it is built below the soil level, it will be inconvenient to use.

Work on the construction of a compost pits from concrete consists of the following steps:

  1. 1. Note a place where the construction will be placed. Part size can be from 1 meter and more if a lot of humus is required.
  2. 2. Drop the pitual depth of 0.5 m.
  3. 3. Set the depth of plywood or boards to the entire depth.
  4. 4. Between the soil and wood, it is desirable to lay a reinforcing grid.
  5. 5. Mix the cement solution (1 part), sand (2 parts) and gravel (4 parts).
  6. 6. Pour the resulting solution into the prepared formwork and pierce repeatedly to the bottom of the reinforcement or thin pipe. This will avoid air emptiness. Leave to sleep for 1-1.5 weeks.
  7. 7. From bricks to build walls of the compost pit over the soil. Do not do it solid. It should have holes for air circulation. The height of one of the walls is 0.5 meters for the convenience of folding waste and getting ready-made fertilizer. Three others - the size of 1-1.5 m.

In such a design, plant waste will be processed at least two years. To accelerate the process, you can use special solutions and regularly shed content.

You can also make a composter to one or two compartments. In one will be stored ripened fertilizer, and the second is constantly replenished. The bottom must be left earthen for the free movement of worms.

Decorating a compost heap

What kind of design does not build for compost, it is unlikely to be attractive outwardly. Therefore, it is desirable to think about the way to decorate it. This is especially true for small sites, where all the buildings are in plain sight. You can hide the composter using the following techniques:

  • to plant high plants or a living fence near it;
  • fall around the perimeter curly plants;
  • decorate with artificial materials, for example, a masking grid;
  • making a decorative fence, followed by a bunch completely hidden.


Thus, the compost yam will be not only a source of environmentally friendly and useful fertilizers. It will decorate the garden.

Before the start of the construction in the country's dacha, think about the fact that it needs you and for what purposes. Such a structure performs functions for the disposal of household organic waste. The compost pit is useful and in order to produce the fertilizer, the necessary garden and the garden, in case you are not going to perplex the Siderays on your land plot to fertilize the soil.
You can undoubtedly add waste along with the remains of vegetables and fruits, in packages, and then disappear into urban garbage containers. But it is not necessary to do this - this is pollution of the environment. If you build in the country area compost pitYou will be able to recycle the overwhelming majority of organic waste into a remarkable nutrient mixture for your plants called a compost. And the time will not be spent on waste disposal.

Purpose of compost yama

Each compost pome has a set of relevant design features that depend on the needs for which it will be used. If you do not know where to throw away the garbage, you may be interested in a pleasant bonus that you can get in a few years - a valuable compost. Then you need to arrange a compost yam using the appropriate scheme.

Obtaining and using compost.

If you want to prepare a fertilizer from girlfriend, which can serve the leaves, beveling grass, manure, then the compost pit will have another design. There are some requirements that need to be adhere to when equipped with compost pits.

How to equip and use a compost pit?

When choosing a location compost yama Try to take into account some pretty important points:

Arrange the pit at a distance of at least 25-30 meters from drinking water sources - wells, wells, streams or other reservoirs.

In the cottage plots with a slope, the hole is located at the level below the well.

Compliance with such precautions is necessary because otherwise the rehabilic waste may be in drinking water, which is dangerous and undesirable.

When building a pit, take into account the wind rose so as not to travert yourself and the neighbors with unpleasant smells.

If you position the compost yam on the outdoor sunny area, its contents will overheat. This will stop composting. Therefore, the best option will be the equipment of the pit to arrange on the site, shaded crowns of trees.

The optimal place for the compost pits is the angle of the land plot adjacent to the fence or deaf wall.

It is also necessary to determine which waste is placed in a compost yam, and which cannot be not thrown into it.

Waste which can be filled with a compost yam

  1. Raw vegetables, fruits, berries, tea, cereals, coffee, cleaning residues;
  2. Hay, beveled grass and straw;
  3. Foliage;
  4. Branches, bark of trees, roots of shrubs and trees, which need to be slightly crushed;
  5. Weeds;
  6. Wood ash;
  7. Cheese;
  8. Napkins, cardboard, paper bags (paper should be natural) - all this is crushed;
  9. Unpainted wood waste;
  10. Secondary duration of herbivores.

Than you can fill the compost yam on the country area.

What is forbidden to fill a hole?

  1. Bones;
  2. Pet experiments, because they may have helminth eggs;
  3. Insect pests and their eggs;
  4. Affected by the diseases of the plant (topophluorosis topopluorosis, pumpkin, and sick powdered dew, and others);
  5. Plants with earthlings that were treated with herbicides;
  6. Inorganic waste, which can be in the form of plastic, iron, rubber or synthetic tissues.

All waste that is not subject to composting is better to burn or dispose of if they relate to excrement.

Domestic waste sorting rules for use in the compost.

Organic waste is treated with microorganisms and rainworms. Do not isolate all the walls of the compost pits below the level of the soil, because if you dig a hole in the ground at a depth of 50 cm, and then protect it with an impenetrable material, it does not penetrate the worms and microorganisms into it. In this case, it is necessary to independently subside them.

As can be seen from the foregoing, it is impossible to call the rules difficult, but it is necessary to observe them.

Arrange a compost pit or a bunch

The most important during the device of the compost pit is the necessary provision of good humidity and looseness in case you want the composting process to be qualitative. There are no special recommendations on this issue.

Arrangement of the compost pits in the country area.

To maintain the humidity of the compost heap, it can be regularly poured, or cover with a film that will create a pair effect. The looseness of the content structure of the compost pile is maintained by the fact that it is periodically flinched with conventional forks, or layers laying materials having different density.

Optimal dimensions of the compost pit

  1. Width - no more than 1.5 meters;
  2. Length - up to 2 meters;
  3. Maximum height is 1.5 meters;
  4. Bare in the ground no more than 0.4 meters.

There are several different designs of compost pitswhich may correspond to the preferences of any owners.

Computer pit having two sections

For overheating and composting organic waste, it is necessary for about 2 years if you do not use the services of additional efficient microorganisms along with those that are present in the ground on your site. In order to make the use of the pit more convenient, the two-section design is built:

  1. Fresh waste is folded into the first section;
  2. In the second section there are waste that is composed by last year.

Prepared in the second section compost They carry out and laid down in beds, on which they want to improve and saturate the land with useful substances. The compost pit can be distressed from all sides, making in the form of a box, but use only material that provides free air access.

Wooden box for the arrangement of the compost hole.

The box can be made of wooden stakeniks that are nailed with the observance of a short distance between them. In this case, the contents of the pit does not prohibit and will not be unpleasant to smell. This compost pit can be constructed independently for 1-2 days - the duration of work depends on the material chosen for the fencing.

Computer pit, having free access to the bottom of the structure:

Such a pit will excellently replace the first option, because it does not require breaking to the section. Fencing a bunch of 30 cm from the ground. Below is the accumulation of the finished compost. If necessary, it is easily selected using a shovel and is used to fertilize the garden.

Building such a pit is very convenient and delivers little trouble. Constantly, when delivered to the bottom of the compost, the contents of the heap fall below, and occupies the released place, in parallel with oxygen. No need special disintegration and throwing.

Computer heap equipment

Not all dackets love artificial creation of unnecessary difficulties. The best way out of such a situation is nothing of the week, in which nothing is digging, does not get, not separated. Only a certain place is selected, where organic waste is folded, gradually forming a bunch.

Food waste for compost pits.

If desired, this pile is poured by uh preparations, or is covered with an opaque film to speed up the composting process. If you have no place to hurry, then it's not worth covering a bunch - its contents will rewn it yourself, it is only necessary for it.

Using plastic containers and barrels

Use plastic compost containers is convenient to those who do not regret money and want his compost pit looks presentable. The container is installed in any convenient location, since the risk of drinking water contamination does not appear due to the tightness of the container. In addition, the container has special ventilation in order not to grasp water.

The use of plastic barrels for the manufacture of a compost pit.

When using this option, it is necessary to know that here it is necessary to use drugs that accelerate the declaration of organic waste, or the subsidence into the pit of rainworms.

Independent assembly of a compost pit

An example may be equipped with an independently compost pit on one of the country's country areas. If the design is fenced from all sides, and have a height of one and a half meters, its contents must be periodically shaken, but this is a very uncomfortable occupation. Therefore, it was decided to arrange two heaps, or rather, one bunch of two sides.

the donkey selection of a good place is the angle of the site near the fence itself, the organic remnants are in the angle. Very good if the alternation of grass, manure and earth is produced. First, before forming a heap, the place for it is laid by branches of trees and shrubs.

Building a compost pit with their own hands.

When the heap is reaching up to 1 meter, deep wells are made (several pieces), in which the EM-preparation is poured (it can be "oxyzine", "Emoki", "Sneli"). On the advice of specialists, you can cover a compost bunch of impenetrable film - so the constant humidity and temperature will be maintained in it, but not all do it. When covering the film, the compost will be ready after 2-3 months, and for composting not covered waste, it takes time for at least six months-of-year.

You can not use uh preparations. California worms or worms of worms will be performed perfectly with work. However, in the use of worms there are also its drawbacks. Worms love warmth, so do not work in the cold month of the year. And microorganisms sufficient so that the temperature in the compost pile rose to + 4 ° C.

It is necessary to water a bunch of water from the hose in a dry time. If it is necessary to obtain a finished compost to transfer it to the bed, you can transfer the upper part of the heap to another place and choose the ready-made heap, humus at the bottom. After the humus is over, the waste is pounced again.

Some daches occur to the device of the compost heap spread on the ground the polyethylene film, to which they then reset the organic waste. They make such a design, believing that in this way there will be no washing of useful elements in the soil. However, they are not right, it is impossible to do so for the following reasons:

With the insulation of the base of the compost heap from the Earth, conditions forcing the moisture will quickly evaporate from the heap. At the same time, the moisture from the Earth does not rise, despite the fact that even on hot days, thanks to the natural mechanism, the moisture should rise from the depths of the earth upwards using special capillaries.

If a bunch is isolated from the ground, it prevents the leaning of humus from compost. Mineral fertilizers are washed out, since trace elements are connected to organic substances and are constantly in the upper layer of the soil.

But these properties are quite convenient for use on the gardens - it's not afraid of rain or rain. And when limiting a minor leakage, which may still occur, pour a peat layer 10 cm, which perfectly solves these problems: prevents the leakage of nutrients into the ground. Peat also allows underground waters to rise into a bunch.

Requirements for the right compost pit

If, after reading the article, you still have questions about building the right compost pits, get advice - do not build it at all. Why?

Likewise and senseless work can be considered work on dragging grass and other organic waste from one place to another. When composting, carbon dioxide pairs are formed - this is an indispensable nutrition of plants, which incursively disappears on a heap, in parallel to your nerves and your neighbors in an unpleasant smell.

Proper arrangement and use of a compost pit.

You can nose with an eccentric, but it is better to put organic waste directly on the beds, where they perfectly overheat and do not make unpleasant flavors. In addition, in them directly on the beds will reproduce the microorganisms, the rainworms will be seized, which will appreciate such an abundance of work for them. The beveled grass can be used as a mulch. Grind and lay the tracks in the branches and cleaning from fresh vegetables and fruits on the garden.

This will allow:

  1. Keep moisture on the beds;
  2. Putting plants with carbon dioxide;
  3. Not to give weeds to germinate in beds;
  4. Engage in the preparation of compost in places where it is necessary;
  5. Prevent the leaching of humus;
  6. Reduce work.

The proposed work on the implementation of organic and food waste is simple, not requiring additional skills or efforts.

Any land in need of periodic fertilizer. And what could be better quality compost? Buy it, and then brought to the site - the lesson is long and expensive. Why not produce this valuable fertilizer directly on its land, because all the conditions have been created for this? During the warm season, many organic and vegetable waste accumulates, which need to be disposed of. It turns out that you can combine the cleaning of the waste area, and the production of compost. Let's analyze how the compost pit can be built with your own hands, what is needed for this, and how to prevent elementary errors in the production of fertilizers.

The compost mind on the land plot is designed for laying all sorts of plant and organic residues, waste, surplus of various products. Laid by layers, these components gradually decompose, turning into a high-quality fertilizer. The question arises: how to build a compost yam with your own hands, so that the fertilizer happens during the season in it? To do this, it is necessary to make certain efforts, help the compost to mature faster.

With appropriate care, you can get ready-made compost after 3 months. If the pit is not paying special attention, the waste decomposition process will continue for about two years.

Requirements for the compost

For normal and rapid maturation of the compost, it is necessary for heat, the presence of oxygen and moisture. How to make a compost yam to make its contents to turn into high-quality fertilizer, and the herself did not harm the plantations and the people on the site? To do this, familiarize yourself with some requirements for such structures:

  • The compost heap mostly should rise above the soil level. Thanks to this, a bunch is better heated, the convenience of its loosening and irrigation is ensured. It is recommended to plunge a hole by about 50 cm, leaving a barrier over the surface of the soil of about 1 m. The ideal design width is 1.5 m, and its length is 2 m;
  • If the site has a source of drinking water, such as well, well, or spring, then the distance from it to the pit should not be less than 25 m;
  • It is advisable to hide a hole in such a place that will be deleted from home or gazebo. In this case, an unpleasant smell that can come from a compost heap will not be annoyed by the land owners;
  • Press the pit is preferably in a half worth so that it is not constantly in the sun. It will contribute to its drying;
  • How to make a compost yam so that the drains from it through the soil do not get into the source of clean water? For this, if the site has a slope, it is enough to arrange a hole below the source;
  • It is impossible to have a pit under fruit trees, as this can lead to their death;
  • The dimensions of the pits are chosen taking into account the number of plant waste and waste, which are available in the country and will be in the pit for two years;
  • Options for manufacturing a compost pit with their own hands should take into account that the height of the fences is recommended to choose such that it is convenient to loosen and gain compost.

Tip: Poam's bottom should not be closed with slate, metal, rubber or film. They will not give moisture to rise from the soil up, as a result of which the compost will constantly disperse. The bottom should be defined by the Earth. But the walls can be closed with any material.

What can and can not be thrown into the compost

The compost pit, built with her own hands, will justify its purpose if the following types of waste are laid in it:

  • leaves, bark, needles, crushed branches and roots;
  • crawled and beveled weeds, grass;
  • bird litter and overworked biennium manure;
  • vegetables, fruits and berries, including cleaning;
  • residues of coffee, tea;
  • hay, sawdust, chips, straw;
  • ash from wood burning;
  • paper, paper bags, cardboard, napkins.

Tip: If a thick layer of fresh herbs is laid in the pit, then the process of its decomposition can delay half a year old. In this case, spend the grass with soil.


In the pit it is impossible to lay out:

  • inorganic products that do not decompose. This is rubber, polyethylene packages, plastic, metal, synthetic products;
  • feces of pets, as they can be helminti eggs;
  • bones;
  • tomato and Potato Botato, as it is often infected with phytoofluorosis;
  • processed plant chemicals;
  • ripe weed seeds;
  • thick branches that are long overloaded.

Possible manufacturer options

The compost pile can be made in several versions. We list them all, indicating the features of each of them.

Ordinary bunch in which waste

  • Choose a place on the site where the compost pile will be;
  • As various waste accumulated, they are locked in the selected place. At the same time, it is desirable to lay the organic layers. Food waste alternate with grass and manure;
  • When the height of the heap reaches 1 meter, do several recesses in it, in which they pour a special compost fluid. This will speed up the maturation of the compost;
  • With regular looser and watering, after 3 months, the compost matures.

This is the perfect option for those who wish to do with minimal efforts, but to get some amount of compost. It is advisable to form several such a pile, each of which will be overheated gradually.

Simple pit

A simple device of the compost pits in the country will provide the usual pit, dug in the selected place:

  • The depth of the pit must be small, which will ensure simpler care for its contents. It is better to make it wider;
  • On the bottom of the pit stacked branches, hay, bark trees;
  • Next, there are layers of food and vegetable waste;
  • Since the temperature in the pit is not very high, it is advisable to cover it with a film.

This is the least successful way to equip a compost pit. For mixing its contents, it will be necessary to make more effort, and the pit will be warm up. The advantages of such a pit are its small area and simplicity of the device.

Border of wood or other material

How to make a compost pit with your own hands to be comfortable and inexpensive? Use for this board, bars, slate, metal sheets, etc.

The order of arrangement will be as follows:

  • On the soil, the upper layer of soil with a thickness of about 40 cm is removed;
  • On the perimeter of the pit, pegs are rush;
  • Fencing is installed around the pit. It can be wooden (boards, pallets, shields, bars) or any other. It is allowed to use any material: flat or wavy slate, polycarbonate, metal sheets;
  • The height of the fence should not exceed 1 m. It is necessary for the convenience of mixing compost;
  • From above, such a structure is covered with plywood or film.

This design allows the compost to warm well, therefore it is considered optimal for use on land.


There is an original version of the wooden box. His lower edges do not reach the surface of the soil by 25-30 cm. That is, boards or other material are attached at a certain distance from the ground. At the bottom of this box, compost ripens faster, as it was laid earlier. As compost is ripening, it is selected, and a bunch is set down. Such a bunch is practically no need to loose. There is always the opportunity to get some amount of the finished compost.


Concreted pit

If you decide to build a durable design, which will serve dozens of years, then use the Council how to make a compost bunch in the concrete pit.

The construction is equipped like this:

  • plot is placed for the future building (approximately 2x3 meters);
  • the soil is selected by 60-80 cm;
  • the formwork is constructed with a thickness of about 10 cm around the perimeter of the future buildings;
  • a concrete solution is mixed;
  • concrete pouring to formwork;
  • after pouring the concrete, the formwork is cleaned;
  • in the concrete yam layers are laid;
  • the pit is covered with wooden shields or covered with a film.

This is the most expensive way to the attached effort and invested means of the building of the compost pits. Such a structure should be placed where a bunch will definitely not create any difficulties, as it will be impossible to transfer it to another place.

Tip: It is recommended to divide the compost facility at least 2 sections. So far, in one of them you will lay fresh waste, typing in the current season, last year's compost will be detected in the second section.

It should also be noted that there are options for organizing compost pits from barrels or special plastic containers for compost, but further will require the use of drug recycling, or the subsidence of Californian worms.

How to exploit the compost yam

We found out how to build a compost yam with your own hands using various schemes. It remains to highlight the question of how to properly care for the compost pome during the season. It is enough to perform the following simple manipulations:

  1. Periodically loose compost forks. In this case, oxygen access will be provided inside the heap. In addition, waste will be mixed with each other, which will accelerate their decomposition.
  2. Water a bunch of at least sometimes, and in the arid season - more often. Thus, the contents of the pit will be moisturized and rehearse. The proposed compost almost completely ceases to decompose.
  3. From above, compost is recommended to cover with a dark film. This will create a greenhouse effect inside the heap, will raise its temperature. The film will save moisture inside and prevent the germination of weeds. In the covered pile, the compost matures for 3-4 months. If it is not covered, the ripening process stretches for a whole year.
  4. Periodically, sit in a bunch of California worms that tear off the contents of the heap and partially processed it.
  5. If possible, add preparations to the contents of the compost heap to the compost pile, accelerating the decomposition process. For example, composting, Baikal EM-1, Embionics, Compostar, SanEx EcoCompost, Bioforce Compost and others.

Corrected compost pit, followed by regular care, is capable of providing a very short time to provide the owners of the site with high-quality and almost free fertilizer.

How can there be a compost yam with your own hands - the photo manufacturing options will demonstrate visual.

To connect plumbing devices to the water supply network used flexible water lining. It is in demand when connecting mixers, shower cabins, toilet bowls and other points of water intake, and significantly simplifies the installation process. Flexible lining is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar water tools for manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and species

A flexible supply for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the right position and allows you to install in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is intended as a braid, which is performed from the following materials:

  • Aluminum. Such models are withstanding no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. With increased humidity, the aluminum braid is prone to the appearance of rust.
  • Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of flexible water supply for water is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 ° C.
  • Nylon. Such a braid is used to make reinforced models that hold the temperature to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive operation for 15 years.

A pair of nut-nut and nut-fitting, which are made of brass or stainless steel are used as fasteners. The devices with different indicators of the permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue is used to connect to a pipe with cold water, and red - with hot.

When choosing a watering for water, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, fastening and destination. Mandatory is also the presence of a certificate that eliminates the separation of rubber toxic components during operation.

Features of gas supply

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment also use flexible liners. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and not tested for environmental safety. For fixing uses end steel or aluminum fittings. Distinguish the following types of fixtures for connecting gas appliances:

  • pVC hoses that are reinforced with polyester thread;
  • from synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
  • silphon, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, reinforcement, plumbing and fixtures for its connection to communications. The range is represented by products and materials of famous foreign and domestic manufacturers. With wholesale purchases, discounts apply, and product quality is confirmed by certificates of the established sample. For information support and assistance for each client, a personal manager is assigned. The possibility of making delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly get purchased goods without unnecessary trouble.

Drainage - a hydro-elevative event on the disposal of excess groundwater.

If you do not leave the water from the territory for a long time, the soil is flunk, if they quickly disappear (swell) shrubs and trees, it is necessary to urgently take measures and carry out the drainage of the site.

Causes of soil moistening

The reasons for the convergence of soils several:

  • clay heavy soil structure with weak water permeability;
  • the waterproof in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
  • high groundwater occurrence;
  • man-made factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects), which prevent natural drainage;
  • violation of water balance with the construction of irrigation systems;
  • landscape plot is located in a lowland, beam, hollow. In this case, atmospheric precipitation and water inflows are playing a major role.

What is fraught with excess moisture in the soil

The results of this phenomenon you see yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

  • the oxygen content is reduced in the soil and the carbon dioxide content increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and power mode in the soil;
  • there is an oxygen fasting of the root-forming layer, which leads to the dying of the roots of plants;
  • violates the receipt of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.), because Excessive water flushes mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible to assimilate;
  • an intensive decay of proteins occurs and, accordingly, the processes of rotting are activated.

Plants can suggest at what level groundwater

Look carefully to the flora of your site. Inhabiting its views will be prompted, at what depth there are soil layers of water:

  • ripowodka - in this place is best to dig up with water;
  • at a depth of 0.5 m - the bow of the village, the chests, varieties of the Oskock - bubble, ostolic, foxes, Vainik Langesdorf;
  • at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - Tollga, Canary,;
  • from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for taming meadow, mint, mouse peas, ranks;
  • from 1.5 m - drink, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know, planning the drainage of the site

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

  • with a depth of groundwater from 0.5 to 1 m can grow vegetables and aluminum flowers at high beds;
  • the depth of the water reservoir to 1.5 m is well transferred to vegetable crops, grains, annual and perennials (flowers), decorative and fruit-berry shrubs, trees on dwarf dive;
  • if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
  • the optimal depth of groundwater grounds for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Whether the drainage is needed

Record your observations at least for a while. You will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect the tale and sedimentary waters along the bypass channel, and not allow them to flow through their plot?

Perhaps you need to design and equip the lavety and improve the composition of the soil and will it be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and decorative trees?

The exact answer will give you a specialist, to call which we strongly recommend. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in an apartment building, a production building, as well as in private home ownership, it is required to experience the system involved by the method of forced strait. This task is applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewed sewage unit and the act of testing of internal sewage systems and drainage systems will be a real proof of work on the reception of the object.

Visual check should be accompanied by the test of the internal sewage and drainage systems in the ACT, which is currently submitted by the current regulations of the application of the "D" series, which corresponds to the joint venture 73.13330.2012 "Domestic Sanitary and Technical Systems of the Building" has recently applicable new Actualized working edition of SNiP 3.05.01-85.

Compost Yama - This is the place of disposal of organic waste. As a result of the activities of microorganisms there is a decomposition of garden garbage, which becomes the basis for highly efficient organic fertilizer. In the article, consider the options for making the compost pits with your own hands.

In one form or another, the compost pits, in the form of the simplest puzzle of the garbage, are present on each preservation site. But the correct designs in the form of modern composters or specially equipped boxes are capable of increasing the amount of valuable fertilizer and the speed of its creation.

The simplest compost pit can be made with your own hands from the utility building materials available in the country.

Principles of the device of the compost pit

The main function of the compost pit is to create the most comfortable environment for the vital activity of bacteria, microorganisms, rainwrites, on the number of the process rate and the quality of the compost obtained. For this, inside the compost heaps should be maintained quite high temperature and humidity with regular oxygen intake.

For this compost capacity must have the following structural features:


Computer boxes made of any girlfriend. It can be boards, slate trimming, professional flooring, metal construction grid and even car tires. Constructions are more capital build from brick or concrete. There are facilitated, portable utilizers in metal or plastic barrels.

The main sanitary requirement for the device of the compost is its remoteness of 20 meters from water bodies and drinking water sources. Rain flows should not drain from the compost heap in the direction of the wells, wells, pools.

Choosing a place on a plot for a compost pit

The location of the composter on the site should not be a source of infection of groundwater, threat to the health of people and animals. It is impossible to place a compost hole on wetlands or in places with standing water.


The external design of the compost pit can be absolutely any. It can be decorated with beautiful-colored shields, fenced with plantings from bill and perennial, ornamental plants.

Making a compost pit with your own hands

You can make a high-quality design with the simplest tools in the garden or an indention site and turn a bunch of garden garbage and decomposed household waste into a valuable fertilizer. There are various types of compost pile, from earthlinks to real concrete structures.

Compost yam in the ground

To create a compost pit:

  1. In the ground, pick up the site away from residential buildings.
  2. On an area of \u200b\u200b1.5 m wide and arbitrary length, the top layer of turf and soil is removed.
  3. The pits should be located at a depth of no more than 0.5 meters.
  4. The bottom swell with a sandy pillow for removing excess water.

The first layer performs the function of drainage and contributes to the aeration of the heap and consists of cropped branches.

They lay on them:

  • mowed grass;
  • dry foliage;
  • sawdust;
  • household nutritional waste;
  • manure;
  • weed herbs.

The layers are moved by peat or garden earth, spill water. To speed up the decomposition process, all ingredients are desirable to grind, simply by pouring the shovel.

The full height of the heap should not exceed 1.5 meters. So, she will rise over the Earth for 1 meter. The construction is protected from above by observer material or shields from slate. In hot weather, a bunch is watered with ordinary water.

In natural conditions, microorganisms will be able to recycle such a dump from garbage for two summer seasons. This is the easiest and most economical way to get compost.

Use the EM preparations. Microorganisms are enough temperatures + 4 ° C inside the compost heap to successfully recycle waste.

Production of compost pits from boards

For ease of operation and accelerate the disposal process, the compost container is made of boards. The optimal size of a 1x1.5 meter compost box.

Instructions for making pit from boards:

Lay garbage into such a container through the top of the general principle, starting with the branches. And it is possible to strain the finished compost.

Photo: drawing drawer for compost, composter scheme

Options for compost holes made of boards

Slate is distinguished by strength and perfectly suitable for the walls of the compost box. You can use both wave and flat sheet slate.


Options for making a composter from slate:

  1. At the location of the compost heap make markup and plunge chopped sheets. They can be consolidated by external, wooden or iron crate.
  2. In another embodiment, metal pipes are plugged into the ground.They are attached to the frame from bars. Outside, it is chosen by slate. The second design is more durable.

All wooden elements should be treated with antiseptic, to avoid rotting. From plywood or boards make a lid for the pit. The front wall of the pit is made below, at the level of 40-50 cm above the ground level. Rigid walls allow you to cover with a film with a film or garden curable material.

Space Pit from Profile

In the manufacture of a compost drawer from a corrugated floor, choose a material with an anti-corrosion coating.

Order of work:

  1. At the selected place, build the basis of a metal or wooden bar.
  2. The dimensions of the pits are selected under the length of the sheets, which allows you to make a compost box with two or three branches.
  3. The basis is made as for the wooden structure.
  4. Outside the profile strip is mounted with screws with gaps of 3-5 cm.
  5. It should be borne in mind that the metal surface is strongly heated in hot summer periods.
  6. From above, they make the shelter of their plywood or boards. The frame is desirable to cover the protective composition.

Metal Mesh Computer Basket

For the manufacture of compost, you can make a cylindrical tank made of metal mesh. In such a cylinder, compost is well ventilated and not subjected to rotting.

How to make a compost basket:


To simplify, you can inside the basket to invest a film package (polyethylene) of a large volume, which is used for garbage. Such baskets are easy to assemble and install anywhere. They are filled with waste on the principle of compost pits. And the compost can be made in special bags that are sold in garden centers.

Contented compost yama

Contented compost pit creates many advantages:

  • Thick walls have long supported the positive temperature.
  • Such a pit is durable and reliable, is not affected by unfavorable natural conditions.

It is advisable to do it big, two and even three branches. In the first and second block will ripen compost different seasons. The third stores bags with a finished compost.

How to make a concrete compost pit:


When the concrete pit is operating, it is necessary to consider that the process of manufacturing compost is slow. To speed up the process, it is necessary to manually add rainworms or commercially available special tools.

Other options for compost pits

Computer pit out of automotive tires

Automotive tires are quite suitable for the arrangement of the compost heap:


Compost in Iron Barrel

For composting, old iron barrels are excellent:

  1. I cut down the chisel both bottoms and put near the track.
  2. In the barrel we fold layers of weeds, beveled grass, kitchen waste.
  3. To increase the temperature, you can paint the barrel into a black color, pour the compost with a solution of ammonium nitrate (matchboxes on the water bucket).
  4. Ready compost get bottom. To do this, you need to lift the barrel scrap.

For improving the design:

  1. With the help of a grinder (angular grinding), it is necessary to cut the barrel into two unequal parts and break through the walls of the air circulation hole.
  2. Then we put them on the ass and connect with wire or rope. Top cover with a lid.
  3. The advantages of this design in the easy accessibility of the contents of the worms and bacteria from the bottom.
  4. To get the finished compost only to unleash the rope, and you will get two hundred liters of finished fertilizer.

Compost in plastic barrel

The perfect material of the compost capacity is plastic. In ordinary compost piles, compost is prepared for two years. In plastic barrels, a capacity of 150-200 liters can be prepared liquid compost in two weeks.

For this:

  1. Fill the barrel of bevelled grass or weeds to half, and fill to the wind to the top.
  2. After about three days, the fermentation process will begin.
  3. After using the solution, you can simply add water in the barrel and give it to brew one week.
  4. Istraut of liquid compost completely, the remaining grass is folded into a compost bunch.

Brick Space

The compost pit of the brick is made in three walls. It can be done on a cement solution or without it. On the cement solution, the compost yam makes no more than 1 meter high. Between bricks you need to leave gaps for ventilation.

A compost pit from a brick without cement bundle is convenient to be transferred to another place if necessary.

In the compost, it is necessary to provide a place to cross the compost mass. Make a lid from an affordable material. The front wall makes temporary so that it is convenient to take out the finished compost.

Concrete rings

In the inner cavity of the concrete ring, you can successfully store the garden garbage and result in obtaining compost. For convenience ring partially plug in the ground, and after filling are covered with a lid or film material.

The lack of construction can be lack of an understated front wall. To unload the finished compost must be closed inside. Otherwise, very durable compost chambers are obtained from such reinforced concrete products.

Compost pit on Finnish technology

If you make a compost yam, there is no desire to purchase a composter on Finnish technology. This is a modern with two containers, a capacity of 80 liters. Its content is mixed with a layer of peat and sawdust. You can also dispose of food.

When the container is filled, it is pulled out and insert another. Due to the high concentration, the finished compost is mixed with earth or sand and fertilize plants. The released container was washed and returned to the place.

Do not confuse compost and cesspools. In the compost preparation containers, an organician from the garden plot is stored. Belkova residues must be disposed of in a cesspool.

What can and what can not be put in a compost pit?

Thanks to composting, the number of waste in landfills is reduced, and our gardens and gardens receive additional fertilizers.


In the first place, organic garden waste is primarily laid in the form:

  • branches;
  • dry foliage;
  • beveled herb;
  • weeds;
  • straw.

Good ingredients for compost heap are:

  • food residues from vegetarian food;
  • egg shell;
  • long husk.

Pleasure the compost can be manure and chicken litter.

The prohibited ingredients of the compost heap are:

  • construction and household waste with a high content of phenols;
  • remnants of printing products;
  • plastic.

Do not put into compost residues of protein and oil food, as they slowly decompose and attract mice and rats.

From plant residues are not laid in compost weeds with ridiculous seeds and with roots capable of rooted well, such as:

  • osay;
  • drinking;
  • loach.

Drought-resistant plants before laying into a compost bunch need to be adding so that they lose their ability to root. Speakers can be used in moderate quantities, as they slowly decompose and take nitrogen. And also not used when composting pets of pets and humans.

Drugs for compost pits

The main task of drugs containing biological activators, accelerate decomposition processes using microorganisms.

Preparations perfectly cope with the processing of organic matter and do not develop in the compost pathogenic microflora:

  1. Composition Cooking can be significantly accelerated by applying Baikal EM. This preparation contains effective microorganisms (EM).
  2. Preparation "Dr. Robik" Significantly increases the number of effective microorganisms (EM) in the compost. They are engaged in the processing of organic matter in humus, and also do not give to develop pathogenic microflora and destroy the larvae of harmful insects.
  3. Bioactivator has similar properties. The Green-Master bioactivator package must be divorced in 20 liters of warm water, give to break for 4 hours and pour a compost bunch. After 2 weeks you need to cut down a bunch of forks. To prepare an composite is sufficiently single treatment with a bioactivator solution.
  4. Good results gives the preparation "COMPOST BOOST" For composting.
  5. The manufacturer of a happy dacket produces "biocompostin" - A means of composite preparation. SANEX PLUS Releases ECOCOMPOST.
  6. Producer Dees Bio K produces several types of drugs: "Green Universal", "Compost One Season", "Compost for the next Agroszon", "Bioactivator for Compost".

Applying drugs can be significantly accelerated by microbiological processes and get compost in 2-3 months.

Preparations Bioactivators for Compost

Committee Operation Rules

After the construction of the compost box and its fill, it remains occasionally to look inside and depending on the changes occurring, to adjust the decomposition process.

Composing Tips:

  1. In arid periods it is necessary to water the compost with ordinary water, Not allowing its overheating, which leads to a reduction in the population of certain types of beneficial bacteria.
  2. At least once every two weeks should loose compost bunch, thereby ensuring the inflow of oxygen in everything, even the lowest, layers.
  3. Add efficient microorganisms to the compost compost In the form of solutions and various additives.
  4. To accelerate processes, you can add a ready-made compost substrate.in which there is a complete complex of microbiological activators.
  5. If the design of the pit does not have the top cover, Simply tighten the top of the undermined gardening material of black, which will increase the temperature and greenhouse effect inside the facility.

Summarizing

Creating a compost pocket does not require serious material investments. It is possible to make it with your own hands from undergraduate materials, which are always enough on any subsidence.

Having spent some time on the manufacture of a compost pit, in the future it will not have to solve problems of disposal of garden and home waste.