How to make a table for repairing an apartment. Old new table - Restoration and update with your own hands. Easy in the manufacture of a table for the country area

The idea of \u200b\u200bcreating an unusual table appeared about a year ago, but the time for its manufacture appeared only now.

Before the "transformation", for six months, the tabletop stood on ordinary round furniture legs. A little rushed, but in general the function of the table was performed.

The countertop was developed in CorelDRAW do it yourself And ordered on the local furniture glass processing plant.

First of all, all sketches were overthrown, all sizes with a further entertainment in a sketch were repaid.

Two arcs performed as the main frame, which in the future all carrying components were fastened. Arcs were made of profile square pipe 20x20 mm, on hand homemade trevalkov pipe bender (Yes, the handle from the meat grinder :-)).

The process of fitting pipes after bending.

We produce fitting arcs on the tabletop.

Welding was made by plasma, with an accurate fit of the elements at the joints. Additional processing in places of seams The design did not require.

We add additional sevendents by taking them from the remainder of the main arcs of the table frame.

As a basis for the mechanism of rising table tops were taken actuators adjustments satellite antenn Superjack HARL-3618 +.

According to the claimed characteristics, peak loading loads - up to 400kg. Options for self-making linear actuator were considered, taking a meter stiletto M10-M12., with a woman welded to a tube, with 12V. The engine from the car windows or the system of janitors of the glass wraths, but in view of the lack of time to many experiments, postponed the idea for future projects.

The frame frame was installed on three linear actuators, which is sufficient for the stability of the table.

A bolt is selected for movement hinges in the actuators M8x75, Ring in the actuator is crushed to diameter 14mm, The bolt will then dress a rubber tube, pushed with a washer with a nut. Something like silent block.

After painting we collect everything together. The first attempts to move the design.

Power wires are connected to the actuators. Engine parameters: 36V., current near 1A.. Selected Network Copper Wire 2x0,75kv.mm..

Fresh countertop for fitting.

The rise and the descent of the table tops up down using an external BP.

Complete attachments of actuators were used for the overall design of the bed.

For the movement of the table on the floor, furniture wheels are installed, with free rotation on 360 degrees. Front without stoppers, rear with stoppers.

For the rigidity of the bed, parts of the upper pipes of the actuators were connected by a dug-like plate, with an additional fastening to the lower arc. Plate 40mm. width, 4mm. Thick, bent into the arc of the same pipe bend, the radius is selected by an experimental way, periodically trying on the table. The plate in the case of the inflection can be easily deformed in the opposite direction, which is so easy to do with the profile pipe. To attach to this plate, complete fastening mechanisms for actuators were used.

Table lift control circuit.

The actuators have a "considering" by the rotation by a germ sensor. Those., If you wish, you can add an intelligent control scheme with an angle or lift height. Evaluating the complexity of the task and the rarity of the use of such adjustment, I decided to go primitive - the toggle switch for two positions with two switching groups and the starting start button for each channel of the lifting mechanism.

As a BP - transformers 18 + 18V. (connected consistently 36V. Changes at the output), power 40W.. With these loads that do not exceed the time of operation of 1-2 minutes with the full rise and the descent of the table top, this power is quite enough, at least a transformer and operates in overload. After the transformer diode bridge 15a Which in the process of work is slightly heated. Two condensers 4700MKFH63V., it is possible one. Selected with a slight margin to completely remove pulsations.

Indication of power supply to the outcatter engine - LED, through a resistor 3kom. (for the blue LED, 3mm.).

The design of the console is decorated in a small plastic case.

General view of the table in the almost assembled form.

Checking electronics control and mechanics of hinges.

Hide wires, give everything to the finished form.

For the mounting of the wires, I use reinforced tape, almost in color painting (the shade is slightly distorted in the photo).

The table is completed, in the near future issuing BP in the normal building, the required amount was not available. While a plastic box was used from candy :) to somehow protect against accidental access to the diagram and to the network voltage on the transformer.

Video work of lifting mechanisms selfieckers.

With a wooden tabletop with minimal financial costs.

The house was rebuilt, repairs at the stage of completion. The kitchen was also ready for the moment. The question has become about the kitchen table. Wooden tables looked at the stores. Normal tables with a wooden countertop (not chipboard) cost from 3000 rubles. Looking at the whole thing I decided to make the table with my own hands.

For the manufacture of the table, I bought:

a set of wooden furniture shield with a length of 60cm wide and 3m long (no less),
wooden bar 4 x 4 cm,
4 feet for the table. (they are sold in furniture accessories stores),
write nuts for fastening legs.

All about everything went out 1,500 rubles.

The dimensions of our future table 60cm at 160 cm (half of the furniture shield), based on the size of the kitchen), so the cost of the table put just over 1000 rubles.

Solving the table top in the size of the table, I began to roaming the ends of the bar at 45 degrees.

The bar is necessary to give stiffness of the table top. It is allowed around the perimeter of the table on the bottom. Without bar, the tabletop will be fed.

Broils of bars apply to the tabletop and check whether everything is allowed without gaps.

Bar Breeping to the countertop screws.

On the back of the tabletop, we place the place of attachment of the legs and holes.

Drills holes in the countertop under the writer. Drill diameter - 10 mm. The diameter of the screw screw - 12 mm.
To facilitate the nuts of the nut, you can set the stroke of 12mm. The tap pitch is equal to the carving step on the nut-write.

All this is done with four legs.

The table is ready and stands on the legs. We proceed to its grinding and varnish coating.

She cleaned the table with emery paper, first 80s, then smaller - 150 kef. The edges of the table and bars I made a little rounded. Something where irregularities worked.

After careful grinding, started covering the table with varnish.

Varnish was matte with us (they took earlier for the floor covering). After the coating of the first layer, we give a dry lacquer. After drying, the pile rises. Again we pass shallow sandpaper and coated the second layer of varnish.

If it is necessary, then after the second layer, they also sand the sandpaper and quarrel the table as I did.

Table ready!

Instead of metal legs, you can also use a square timber or ready-made balasins that are sold ready.

Probably when I do another table, I will use exactly Balyasins. They are of different sizes. It is desirable to use balasins with a diameter of more than 70 mm. They also be mounted on screws.

Even the most beautiful and fashionable design of the modern interior can spoil the uneven ceiling, so the first thing to do during the repair is leveling the ceiling surface. For this there are many ways, but for independent work two options are optimal - installing plastic panels or installation of the ceiling of drywall. The second solution gives more opportunities for further decoration. Consider whether it is possible to build a plasterboard design yourself, without attracting assistants from the side.

What to prepare for installation of plasterboard ceiling

Preparatory work for convenience is better divided into several stages. Before starting installation of the frame and cutting the GK panels, you must perform the following steps:

draw up a repair scheme;
calculate the number of sheets, profile, fasteners;
purchase the necessary material;
pick up the necessary tools;
clean the ceiling surface;
mark up according to the scheme.

Designs made of drywalls differ in shape, complexity, light design and decoration

On the usual sheet of paper in the cell, draw the scheme of the room in which you planned repairs. Mark the profile fastening locations, distance between the guides, calculate the amount of consumables. A correctly composed ceiling installation scheme from the plasterboard panels will provide an opportunity not only to save funds allocated for repairs, but also more clearly imagine a plan for further events.

Decide with the purpose - for which the design requires first: for simple alignment or still masking communications. In the first case, it is enough to make a markup at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling, in the second - preferably below to leave enough space for cables, pipes or insulation.

One of the options for plasterboard sheets on the ceiling

Here is an exemplary set of tools needed to cut the metal profile and GLC, as well as the profile attachment to the ceiling, and sheets to the profile:

roulette, level, marker for marking;
drill Il perforator;
hacksaw, logsik or circular;
screwdriver.

For finishing works, a putty, spatula and overtaking for grouting will be required.

Before starting drilling holes under the dowel, it is necessary to prepare a ceiling surface: close the cracks, remove the remains of the old finish, determine the wiring of electrical wires for lighting. If the installation of a standard ceiling from the backlit plasterboard is scheduled, even at the preliminary step, the places of fixture of the lamps should be scheduled.

Green plasterboard sheets - moisture resistant, more durable and thick

Installation of the suspended design from GLC

The construction process of a new ceiling from GLC can be divided into 3 main stages.

1 Stage - Profile Fastening

Initially, the walls along the entire perimeter fix the guide profile. For dowels, it is necessary to drill holes with an interval of 50-55 cm. The ceiling profile insert into the groovers to the grooves using connectors for extension, if the length of the ridges will be insufficient. The distance between the ceiling profile depends on the type of drywall: for the usual, it is quite enough and 60 cm, whereas for a moisture-proof interval must be reduced to 40 cm.

To protect the planks from sagging and make them more rigid, using suspensions. Direct suspensions are securely straight to the ceiling, free ends bend. In addition to long longitudinal rails, we are installed and transverse to perform the installation of brittle drywall on the ceiling with their own hands and on the short side.

Metal profile differs in size and appointment

2 Stage - installation of plasterboard panels

Professionals know several secrets, how to install plasterboard on the ceiling. For example, they recommend fixing the panels so that their joints do not coincide. This means that the first row consists of entire sheets, the second - from the circumcised, possibly the opposite.

Breeping panels to the longitudinal and transverse profile with self-draws, the step between which is not more than 20 cm. In places of docking two sheets, the mount slightly displacing, increasing strength. The main parts will have direct sides: leaf we cut a knife, then lying manually. The complex element is better cut by a jigsaw or hacksaw. Installing panels one after one, cover the entire ceiling.

Screwdriver perfectly suitable for screwing screws

3 Stage - Spike

We perform in two right. First, only junctions and recessed hats of self-tapping screws are put off. To strengthen the seams, we use the sulfyan tape. We wait until it snacks, and the renewable, but the entire surface. Orthodiy eliminating sandpaper or grinding. As a result, we obtain a homogeneous smooth surface of white, ready for primer, painting and further finish.

5 ways to install GCC on the ceiling alone

If you make repairs in a small room, installing ceilings from any type of drywall does not cause difficulties: it is enough to cut the panel into small fragments, lungs and convenient for installation. But in large rooms it is irrational to use pieces of GLC, the process will delay for a long time and the amount of work will increase several times. To mount large sheets to the profile, various homemade designs and fixtures are used to mount the plasterboard panels on the ceiling. Consider how convenient they are for working at home.

1 method - "Two backups"

Perhaps the most convenient option for independent repairs in an apartment with a small work area. From wooden bars and poles, it is necessary to lend two devices for mounting drywall on the ceiling, seemingly reminiscent of the mop. The width of the lower bar is 80-90 cm, the pole centimeters is 8-10 longer than the ceiling height.

The procedure is simple. Put the swab with the crossing up, to the wall, so that the slot remains between the BRAN and the ceiling. In this slit it is necessary to insert one edge of the plasterboard panel. The opposite edge lift up, and then lift to the ceiling prepared in advance by BR. When the leaf is raised completely, the opposite end is also made by the second device. The sheet is pressed to the profile, you can engage in screwing screws.

Elementary devices are used to work alone - backups

2 Method - "Wooden Frame"

From the bars, the frame is laid, the length of which is slightly smaller than the length of the room. To one end, screw the door loops. Loops Breppy under the ceiling, right under the frame of the profile. Thus, one end of the frame is under the ceiling, the other on the floor. We put on the frame of the sheet of drywall and raise up the second end, securing the backup. After that, you can not rush to align the sheet and secure it with self-draws. With a self-made frame, it is easy to install plasterboard on the ceiling one, without someone else's help.

3 Method - "The Principle of Ironing Board"

From thick bars and DSP panels, a device with crossed "legs" resembling a ironing board is roamed. The height of the design can be adjusted by shifting the "legs". The sheet is put on the top panel and raise the ceiling, where they are fixed.

Variants of the lighting device are quite a lot - from exclusive point lamps to elegant chandeliers

4 Method - "Winch"

The design of the device is similar to a regular table, with the difference that a special device similar to a winch is capable of lifting the "table" cover.

5 Method - "Platform on the rollers"

Mobile mobile platform is good for large premises - Gym Go Forest. It moves on the rollers, and on the upper part has rotary racks, to which the sheet is stacked and rises up.

How to lift the sheet of plasterboard

Single-level suspended ceiling of plasterboard - installation lesson

I would like to note that the installation of a plasterboard design alone - the occupation is complex and longer, so at the stage of fastening the panels to the profile it is better to invite 1-2 assistants.

The table with the broken leg causes irritation, I want to remove it from the eye. But if the table itself is valuable, or you are accustomed to him as a family relic, then you want to save it. You can think about independent repairs, especially since in most cases it is not too difficult to correct the design.

We are talking about a table, in which all parts are whole, only glued connections diverged. This happens almost all of the furniture items, served for many years the product requires repair. There are no obstacles in order to update the design with your own hands at home.

It will take a hammer, glue, thin brush, clamps or a clamp with a clamp, a grinding skin. It should be understood that bringing down the legs with nails, or twist with self-draws will not work. Sharp the details, but there will be no sense. Just after such a repair, the table will definitely have to be thrown away.
Therefore, it is better to take a case seriously, especially since there are no difficulties here.

The first thing we do in any version of the repair is completely disassembling the discharged base. If the assembly was on round spikes (wizards), then we clean them from the old glue and cook again to put in place. If spikes are broken, you will have to drill the nests re-and use the ready-made round dowels from the store.
Close to the topic of the article, just with the replacement of broken waders.

If the waders are glorified after cleaning, that is, too easily included in the nests, then it is necessary to increase the thickness of the spike. This is done by winding gauze with glue, or sticking to a veneer wanking. After processing, we check how the spikes are included in the nest and, if necessary, we write in thickness.

Pictures of Instructables.com
We apply glue to the seats and be sure to the nests themselves. Tassels as a rule do not go there, so the glue is applied using a narrow wooden chips.
We insert the seashes into the nests and collect the connection to pick up the details of the image, or the hammer through the wooden bar, so as not to damage the coating. For the details well glued, it is necessary to compress the parts of the clamps, or with a belt with a snoring mechanism.

There is another way to qualitatively fix the discharged leg. To do this, it is necessary to buy in the store corner ties for tables, it is better four on all legs at once.

Next, we act like this: remove the countertop and mechanisms, if the table is sliding. Then take the tie, apply inside the angle of the podstolia and place the installation location.
For greater rigidity, the ends of the plate are bent inside, so it is necessary to make rods on the kings.

We install the screed into the propulsion and place the place for screwing the metal stiletto on the central opening. Drills the slot to the heel by 1-2 mm. less than the diameter of the hairpin.
We screw the stud into the foot of the table and attract the screed plate into place by self-draws.

It remains only to turn off the nut or lambs on the heap and good to pull the corner of the podstol.
This method is good in that if necessary, the table can be tightened again.
Of the negative points there is only one, the expensive table assembled from the wood of valuable rocks will slightly lose its value. Yet the classic furniture assembly is made on spikes with glue.

The table with your own hands may well be made even a homemade master who does not have any accumulated experience in the joinery craft. Of course, it will be possible if the design of the table will be sufficiently simple and understandable.

For example, find a suitable ready-made table model for a kitchen with overly small dimensions is not always obtained. Purchase to order furniture from the wood array - sufficiently placed. Therefore, it is sometimes necessary to take care of the tools and design your own "work" yourself, pushing out the specific sizes of the place where the table is planned.

In addition, a desire often arises to show their creative abilities in the conditions of giving, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip the veranda or a gazebo of a country site. If there are suitable materials and tools at hand, then you can or sit for drawing up the drawing of the future table, or take advantage of the finished project, and then proceed to work.

To understand which of the types of tables under the power to build with your own hands, it is desirable to consider several options for this subject of furniture.

Tools for work

Before starting work, you must prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.

You can use ordinary, traditional hand tools that have always worked carpenters. This list usually includes:

The plans to be aligned with wood and drive items to the desired size.
The chisels for sampling of various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
Saws of different sizes and modifications that cut thick boards or make minor drums.
Pencil, roulette, corner and ruler.
Screwdriver Set.
Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
Sanding paper for grinding.

Many of the tools can be replaced by more modern and convenient devices:

Electric jigscription will perform all the work for which they used to be used, the various saws mentioned above.

Rating electroballs

The grinding machine will help to make the surfaces even and pulses them to the brilliance, will save from the very tedious handling procedure with emery paper.

Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help rounding sharp corners, drill curly grooves under furniture loops, and if you need a certain experience, you can decorate the table with a relief pattern with it.

Significantly accelerates work, as it will have to spend on the twist of each self-proof for a few minutes. In addition, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills in it with certain operations, for example, in order to process the edge or make a perfectly smooth large or fine hole (groove).

The building level will help make the product smooth and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and skews.

So that the finished furniture does not work out "dashed", the assembly is controlled by the level

Easy in the manufacture of a table for the country area

Make a similar country table - forces to each

Necessary materials

For such a country having a size of a tabletop of 1680 × 850 mm, it will not be necessary for a very large amount of wooden blanks. It is necessary to prepare the following:

Bar, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (Table legs).
Self-tapping screws, bolts and, possibly, metal corners.
Carpentry glue.
Board, size:

1680 × 100 × 25 mm - 4 pcs. (longitudinal framework elements);
850 × 100 × 25 mm - 2 pcs. (transverse framework parts);
1580 × 100 × 25 mm - 2 pcs. (facing boards for the side elements of the frame);
950 × 100 × 25 mm - 17 pcs. (Boards for the table top).

All wooden elements must be processed by the compositions and have a prepared smooth surface. If it is planned to "darken" wood, then it is covered with a verse, and for the manifestation of the texture pattern - on top neatly passed the grinding machine. Sanding paper with small grain will remove the blurred sublime parts of the wood pattern, and they will become lighter than recess.

Installation of garden table

When all parts for the frame will be prepared, you can go to the assembly.

Frame or "Box"

The first step of the work-table framework details are four longitudinal boards of 1680 × 100 × 25 mm and two end 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on the big table or on the floor. On the end boards there is a markup of the location of the internal and exterior boards. Using a ruler, relying on the drawing, the desired distances are measured and the pencil is marked. Be sure to accurately note the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end, especially if the connection is to pass in the insertion method.

The connection of the elements can be carried out in different ways:

Connection with the choice of a "quarter" and using metal corners

- with the help of a steel corner - this is the easiest and most reliable way;

- the method of the insert is a more complex way, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;

Several types of connection on the principle of "Ship-Paz"

- "Paz-Schip" shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a compound is also quite difficult for beginner masters who do not have experience;

- The connection of the wizards is shown on Fenther E) - this method also requires ideal accuracy when marking and drumming the holes in the parts connected.

All compounds are usually carried out with glue. An exception is only fastening the details of the metal corner.
The frame must have perfectly verified direct angles, so after connecting all the elements, you need to control the construction of the construction corner and measurement and comparing the length of the diagonals.
If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and leave it to the complete burden, otherwise they will be connected unreliable.

When the glue is driving, and the frame will acquire a certain rigidity, facing boards are fixed to external longitudinal sides of a size of 1580 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of their attachments also need to be placed, since in their edges there should be a distance for the installation of the legs. Facing boards are also placed on glue and fixed with self-drawing, the hats of which should be dried in wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

The next step is the transverse case of the countertop boards 950 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of consolidation is also needed to first place, starting from the middle of the frame, as they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Table tops over the frame should be 25 mm from all four sides.

Further, each of the boards are fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the extreme boards are also to the end parties. So that the hats of the screws were recessed, for them in the boards, the recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled into a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, the drill of a smaller diameter (usually - 3 mm) through holes are dried, in which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. In order to avoid cracking of boards during installation work, through holes must be drilled.

After that, on the edges of the longitudinal boards, the legs of a bar with a cross section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed, they must accurately coincide with the width of the table top.

The next step - the legs are installed

The legs can be fixed to the frame by self-drawing, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them on the diagonal of the connection site. Through the bolts are drilled through holes, and the twisting of the nuts on them is made from the inside of the frame using the key.
The final stage of manufacturing is seeding with screws of self-tapping screws with a mixture made of joinery or epoxy glue and sawdust. This homemade putty fill the deepening over the hats and well smash. After grazeing the glue all the worktop, and especially the places closed by the "plugs" of the glue, you need to polish well.

After that, the table can be covered with varnish or water-based paint. Waving to dry the decorating or protective layer, the product can be installed in the country gazebo, on the veranda or terrace in the recreation area.

If desired, the set to the table will be easy to make or bench.

Small folding table for kitchen

Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

Its design is arranged in such a way that the countertop cannot work independently if the feet of the table will be condemned, so the table is quite safe for installation in the children's room.
The presence of a bilateral spacious bedside table will allow you to store various trifles and small toys.
The table is equipped with a tabletop of sufficient size so that the child, sitting behind him, could perform homework.
In addition, there will be a place for a laptop on the worktop or the books necessary for studying books.
If necessary, this small table can easily be replaced with an ironing board, if you have a soft tissue on its surface.

Given all the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite the very compact dimensions.

Find out how, as well as familiarize yourself with multiple models with detailed instructions, in the special article of our portal.

Required materials and details for folding table

To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the details from which it consists. The list of necessary blanks is shown in the table below, and how to manufacture them - will be described and shown below:

Scheme of the table with the populated numbers of assembly parts (clickable illustration - click to enlarge)

Details number in the drawing	the name of detail	Number, pcs.	Detail size, mm	Material of manufacture, thickness, mm
1	Folding part of the table top.	1	600 × 600.
2	Fixed table top of the couch.	1	600 × 475.	Multilayer Plywood 25mm Thick
3		2	530 × 30.
4		2	120 × 30.	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
5	Top face detail of the groove, limiting the movement of the leg.	1	122 × 30.	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
6	Element groove for the movement of the leg on the folding countertop.	2	530 × 20.	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
7	The element of the groove for the movement of the leg on the tabletop of the couch.	2	120 × 20.	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
8	Lower end detail of the groove, limiting the movement of the leg.	1	122 × 20.	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
9	Side walls of table stands.	2	720 × 520.	MDF 19 mm
10	Horizontal details of the stands forming the shelves.	3	520 × 312.	MDF 19 mm
11	The lower vertical part of the inner partition of the couch.	1	418 × 312.	MDF 19 mm
12	The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the couch.	1	312 × 184.	MDF 19 mm
13	The average horizontal part of the couch.	1	310 × 250.	MDF 19 mm
14	Door of the couch.	1	477 × 346.	MDF 19 mm
15	Shelf of the couch.	1	310 × 250.	MDF 19 mm
16	Facade cabinet drawer.	1	346 × 209.	MDF 19 mm
17	Front drawer panel (located behind the facade).	1	418 × 312.	MDF 19 mm
18	Side panels drawer.	2	341 × 250.	MDF 19 mm
19	Rear drawer panel.	1	272 × 120.	MDF 19 mm
20	Bottom panel box.	1	341 × 272.	MDF 19 mm
	Handles for drawer and door doors.	2	Ø 30 mm	Wood
	Upper leg element.	1	80 × 80 × 18	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
	Mobile feet of the table.	1	Ø Top 55, bottom 30, height 702	Wood
	Furniture loops for connecting two parts of the table top.	2	Ø 50 mm	Metal
	Furniture loops for the door.	2	The size depends on the form.	Metal
	Bottom end panels covering the lumen under the tab.	2	20 × 300 × 5	Plywood 5 mm

The figures show the drawing of the table to which you can rely on the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single design.

The main sizes of the table (illustration clickable - click to enlarge)

Separate table nodes - retractable box and guide channel for moving legs (Illustration of clickable - Click to enlarge)

For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, modern electrical tools will be required that can bring the workpiece to professional perfection.

Learn how to make with a photo and description in a special article of our portal.

Installation of folding table stands

Start the manufacture of the table stands with the most important and large part of its details - countertops. Since the folding table, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, that which can be thrown down if necessary. In the folded state, this table may well perform the role of a conventional compact standby.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	The first step of plywood with a thickness of 25 mm, using a jigsaw or circular saw, it is necessary to cut the blanks for the table top, the size of 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm.
	Next, the larger panel is marked - the semicircle is drawn up, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct form of the semicircle, you can use a large building circulation, or make it yourself - from the nail, pencil and rope.
	Then, according to the noted, the tabletop curly. This can be done using a jigsaw or circular saw by installing an appropriate zircle nozzle on it.
	Further, the milling machine is set to the cutter of the desired configuration, which will make the edges of the table top smooth, optionally - smooth or rounded.
	The milling part of the panel is treated with a milling part, leaving a smooth one side that will stick with the second part of the table top. The edges are then processed.
	The next step, the two treated parts of the table top are laid on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Marking is made to install furniture loops. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the table top. Furniture loops can have a different form, so they should be put on the marked place and circle with a simple pencil. Then, with the help of a milling mill in the plywood, special curly grooves are arranged, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture loops. In the finished holes of the loops are fixed with the help of self-tapping screws.
	After connecting the hinges of two parts of the table, in the middle of the panels, there is a markup from the bottom side to secure parts that form a closed channel for the movement of the moving feet of the table. Guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the joint of two parts of the table. For the manufacture of parts, plywood is 18 mm thick. Then, cut out of it and processed by a mill of 10 elements: 530 × 30 mm in size - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2pcs, 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 × 20 mm - 2pc., 122 × 20 mm -1 pcs. It is important to remember that long rails must have from one edge, and short elements on both sides of the sections of 45˚ so that when docking, they formed a straight angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts fixed on top of the lower rails of the guides are cut from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These sections are necessary to ensure that their corners do not interfere with the foot of the legs by the resulting channel. Then, to the discharged section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the tabletop are glued with carbon glue parts. First, they are fixed on the glue, and then screwed up the longest rails having a size of 530 × 20 mm, then overlaps the channel part 122 × 20 mm. On top of long and short fixed rivers are pasted by second, having the same length, but large widths are also additionally screwed by self-draws. Thus, a smooth channel forms between the tabletop and the upper rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of spouts of screws in so that the upper does not come across those that fix the lower rails. Similarly, four parts and on the rectangular part of the table top are fixed. All items should be processed before smoothness and perfectly fixed with each other, otherwise the leg when moving will be stumbled on obstacles and jam.
	The leg is usually made on the lathe. If it is not, then it can be ordered to order it at the master or buy in the finished form. As a last resort, you can make it square, processing the timing of the desired height before smoothness. Then, on the upper end part of the leg with the help of a duct and glue is fixed exactly in the center, the guide square plate of plywood, having dimensions of 80 × 80 × 18 mm.
	Next, after drying the glue, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and test for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, you can carry out minor fit and refinement.
	The finished countertop is painted, or is covered with a water-based varnish - if the goal is set to preserve the factory drawing of plywood. After that, the finished countertop is laying aside and go to the manufacture of the couch.
	Elements of the cabinets do not have complex configurations, so it is enough to make them enough on the MDF panel or a thick phaneer to accurately move the dimensions of the parts specified in the table, and gently cut them out them with a jigsaw or saws. After the items are made, their end parts must be processed before smoothness by the milling mill, otherwise they will look inactively.
	If you plan to leave the visible end parts of the details of the chandeliers with a special laminated edge ribbon, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on the inner side has a layer of glue, which is heated under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.
	The next step in the door panel of the cabinets you need to make curly grooves in which furniture loops will be fixed and fixed. The holes are made in the same way as in the tabletop using a millingrer, but in this case the mill can be installed in the screwdriver, since the MDF has a smaller density than glued plywood and is easier to process without material chip. The loop should be located at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before the start of drilling you need to spend thorough markup. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the couch to which the door will be fixed. Then the door of the door is joined among themselves, to check the correctness of the installation and for the holes for the screws for the screws.
	In addition to loops, you can immediately fasten the prepared handle. To do this, retreating the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a convenient position in height, the point is noted through which the through hole is drilled to fix the handle.
	All made parts of the cabinet are painted paint selected color with roller and brush. The paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but also protects the material from the negative effect of a specific kitchen wet environment.
	Next, you can go to the assembly of the bedside tables. Professionals spend this process using special tools, but they can be completely replaced by appliant devices. For example, you can assemble on a flat table, and for the convenience of installing the cabinets, it is additionally installed on smooth bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out with the help of wooden drums, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the last option is the easiest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, hats of self-assembly after assembly will have to mask various compositions. The assembly process occurs as follows: - The bottom panel is laid on the stand. - It is set to it in terms of the level and with the help of a construction corner one of the side panels and its location is marked with a pencil. - And the same is planned on the horizontal and vertical panel the location of the fastening parts. - exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and separation middle wall. - Then, on the marked points of the bottom and end sides of the side panels, holes are drilled to install the waders. - After that, before gluing the parts, the locations are defined on the side walls to install the shelves. Then, in the marked places mounted brackets-shelters for which holes are also drilled. - Next, in the holes, drilled in the bottom, are mounted glued by glue, the side walls are put on the upper, protruding part. - the non-removable jumper shelves are mounted in the same way, simultaneously with the side walls.
	Before you continue to work, you need to make sure that the glue in the collected design is good. In order for the cabinet to stood tougher, it is placed on the side and for the breakdown squeezed by clamps.
	While driving glue, you can take a drawer assembly. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out with the help of a wanking. The lateral sides are assigned to the bottom part of the box, and the line has a pencil, and then marked seats where the sewage will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and on the marked places, the holes are drilled in their end to install fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the wrenches are missing with glue and gently inserted into the holes, connecting the sidewalls with the bottom.
	Bathrooms are twisted with the help of self-tapping screws, the hats of which are recommended to be dried into wood, and the holes should be sealing from epoxy glue and sawdust. Another fastening option can become furniture corners, which are from the inside are screwed to the sidewalls by self-draws. Each of the sides will take two corners.
	Collecting the box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a construction corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise there may be a skew.
	If it is planned to install metal roller guides for a lightweight drawer, then to start on the sidewalls of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet, the place of their attachment is determined. To do this, with the help of a pencil and ruler, the line is drawn, on which the guides will be enshrined.
	Next, the front panel is installed to the front of the box. It is screwed from the inside of the drawer, through pre-placed and drilled holes. Recommended In addition to the screws for fastening the panel, use the glue: it is applied to the front panel, and then the facade is pressed to it, and they are tightened with four-five screws. After grazing the glue in the center of the front panel, the hole is drilled through which the handle is screwed.
	Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the connection of the stands and countertops. The stationary part of the countertop is recommended to first be glued to the surface of the couch, and then fasten it with self-strokes, which are screwed from the inside of the lower cabinets. But first, the countertop must be right. A part of the channel located on the stationaryly installed tabletop panel must be restarted into the side of the couch - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the legs towards the table. The countertop should go beyond the edges of the cutter on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg - 120 mm.
	Securing the tabletop, go to the final installation and screwing on the dormitory of the bedside tables. Then the retractable box is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelves.
	In the closed state, the compact table, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetic. If you wish to decorate it, you can choose other colors that will be better harmony with the interior of a particular room.
	In the open state, the table will also not take much space and perfectly fit into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its "easy" design, it does not waste the interior, and the shape of the tabletop makes it safe for children. Therefore, this option can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If there is a need to save money, or simply there is a big desire to show yourself in joiner's work, then you should not postpone self-making. Moreover, the assembly will become not only interesting and useful, but also very pleasant, especially at the moment when the work will be successfully completed.

For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting version of the round table, which may well serve both at home and in the territory of the site.

Video: An example of a round table assembly

And one more idea of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen table, to realize themselves, which is incorrect, will also be able to skillful owner: